Build Quality

Overall build quality is very solid. There is no rattle when shaking the mouse. When applying lateral pressure, no creaking of the shell can be observed. It's impossible to activate the side buttons by squeezing the sides. Lastly, no accidental clicks occur when slamming the mouse down.

Buttons

Main buttons on the Light² 100 are very good. Pre-travel is very low and post-travel is moderate, which results in a firm and satisfying click feel. The buttons are separated from the shell, yet there is only minor button wiggle. Button stiffness is light. Omron D2FC-F-7N (20M) (OF) (China) switches are used.


Side buttons are very good. Both pre and post-travel are low, resulting in a snappy click response. The pressure point isn't entirely even across the entire button, though. Button size and placement is good as actuation is possible rather easily by rolling one's thumb over these. Huano switches (white plunger) are used here.

At the top of the mouse is a single button for cycling through the set CPI levels. Its click feel is good. Another Huano switch (white plunger) is used for this one. A slider at the bottom of the mouse controls the polling rate—it works fine as well.

Scroll Wheel

The scroll wheel is excellent. Neither scrolling up or down produces any unwanted noise. The individual steps are nicely separated, resulting in great tactility. The encoder is a black F-Switch. The middle (scroll wheel) click requires medium force for actuation. Yet another Huano switch (green plunger) is used here.

Coating

The Light² 100 has a smooth matte UV coating all over. It's a bit rougher than the average Zowie coating and much grippier. Furthermore, it doesn't attract fingerprints, dirt, or the likes too much. It's easy to clean, and there are no signs of wear left after doing so. All in all, an excellent coating.

Button Sound Test

Disassembly

Disassembling the Light² 100 is very easy. Just remove the big rear mouse skate, unscrew the screws, and pop the top and bottom shell apart (the former is clipped in at the front). The internal design is equally simple. Everything sits on a single PCB except for the side buttons, which sit on their own PCB screwed into the top shell and connected to the main PCB through a 3-pin JST connector. The main PCB is affixed to the bottom shell by four screws. All PCBs are rather thick. The MCU is a WTU301 N360-C, which is known as it is also used in the Sharkoon Light² 200, Xtrfy M4, or Abkoncore A900.


As for the soldering and general quality of the PCB, I'm unable to find any noteworthy flaws.