Build Quality

Overall build quality is mostly solid. When shaking the mouse, a rattle comes from the entirely loose sensor lens. When applying lateral pressure, minor creaking but no flexing of the shell can be observed. It's impossible to activate the side buttons by squeezing the sides. Lastly, no accidental clicks occur when slamming down the mouse.

Buttons

Main buttons on the Light² S are excellent. There is some minor pre-travel on the left button, but post-travel is impressively low on both, resulting in a firm and snappy button response. Click feel is great too, providing crisp actuation and feedback. While the buttons are visually separated from the shell, lateral button movement is as low as physically possible. Button stiffness is medium. A set of Omron D2FC-F-7N (20M) switches is used.


Side buttons are excellent (left side) to very good (right). The back button on the right side has some noticeable pre-travel, but other than that, both pre and post-travel are very low, and the pressure point is even across the entirety of these buttons. Button placement is good as actuation is possible very easily by rolling one's thumb across. I wasn't irritated by the buttons on the right side during play and general use. Tactile switches from Huano are used for these.

At the top of the mouse is a single button for cycling through the set CPI levels. Its click feel is good. Another Omron D2FC-F-7N (20M) is used for this one.

Scroll Wheel

The scroll wheel is good. Scrolling up or down doesn't produce much noise, but the individual steps clearly lack separation, resulting in below average tactility. Coupled with the rather stiff scroll wheel click (Huano switch, green plunger), the very light scrolling can result in accidental scrolling when pressing the wheel. The encoder comes from Huano.

Coating

The Light² S has a smooth matte surface. It doesn't attract fingerprints, dirt, or the likes too much. It is easy to clean, and there are no signs of wear left after doing so. All in all, excellent materials.

Button Sound Test

Disassembly

Disassembling the Light² S is easy. Remove the two front skates and expose the screw below the "QC passed" sticker at the back—top and bottom shells will now be easily separated after the exposed screws are removed. There are two additional screws beneath the two rear skates, but removing those is only necessary if one wants to remove the entire chassis. The internal design is equally simple. Everything sits on a single PCB. A ribbon cable connects the LED strip of the top shell to the PCB, and the side buttons are mounted vertically onto the PCB. The PCB is fairly thin and affixed to the bottom shell with two screws. The MCU is a Holtek HT68FB560, whose datasheet can be found here. Further inspection of the bottom shell reveals that the entirely loose lens is not a coincidence but rather a design flaw, as the plastic cutout is significantly larger than the lens, and this will be rated accordingly.


As for the soldering and general quality of the PCB, several solder joints look far from good.