The i-Rocks K72MN supports N-key rollover USB out of the box, which tested successfully using Aqua's test. You can switch to 6KRO using onboard controls or the software drivers if needed. Switch Hitter confirmed no chatter with these keys either, and as with most modern keyboards, an Fn key replaces the right Win key.
When first connected and running, the keyboard lights up in a rainbow wave lighting effect, which is different from the default option for the software profiles (static red on all keys). The transition animation is smooth, and the effect is a good demo to also ensure the keyboard is powered on and working properly.
In a separate test with one of the preset multi-color options, I tested for light bleed, and it was definitely present at the common edges because of the floating keycaps, but not to where it is distracting. Indeed, the light show from all the RGB LEDs underneath the keys and the extra lighting zones around the keyboard makes for a bigger attention grab anyway. I then manually set all the keys to white using the software driver to test for color fidelity since RGB LEDs have a hard time depicting white, and it was a remarkably true-to-color white here, so props to Thermaltake.
Here are some more of the lighting effects demonstrated, including on the sides, making full use of the hardware and software alike. There is a good amount of onboard control over choosing the lighting effects outlined in the quick start guide, as well as customizing the speed and direction. You also have 512 colors available onboard via 8-bit RGB channels and can switch to the software for more granular control if needed.
The onboard functionality is very handy for those who prefer not to use the software drivers a lot. There are dedicated buttons for media playback, a volume mute toggle button tied in with the fancy volume knob wheel, the lighting on/off and Win lock buttons, and profile switching between the six profiles saved on the device, which can have their own associated lighting to make them more readily distinguishable. The key-assignment options in TT iTAKE allow for users to also go with layouts other than QWERTY, and here, I used the source code from an older keyboard review in a layout tester (courtesy of Patrick Gillespie). The results above indicate that QWERTY is not even close to the most efficient layout for me, and very likely you as well. If you are willing, try out Colemak or Dvorak as they will result in lower finger travel and fatigue overall. As such, the driver offers a significant functional tool if you are willing to devote some time to adopting either Colemak or Dvorak. Here is the link to the full results if you are interested, including a detailed analysis on key presses and distances moved.
The Cherry MX Blue switch on my unit is a medium-heavy force tactile and clicky switch with a rated actuation at ~2.1 mm and total travel of 4 mm, and the click taking up more force than actuation to where you will inevitable actuate once you move past the feedback point anyway. It is an audible switch and is best suited for a more private work environment lest you bother your coworkers in a shared hub. The MX Blue has more deliberate feedback than linear switches and arguably is better for typing too, but do be aware that the clicky feedback is not at the same point of actuation and differs slightly. These are the older switches with the 50 M lifetime, but I did not experience any issues, and 20 randomly chosen switches came in well within the expected force requirement for actuation. The other version with the MX Speed (Silver) RGB switches should have the newer 100 M lifetime rating based on the updated mold for linear switches from Cherry.
As always, the sound of a keyboard is based on more than just the switch type. So when comparing sound clips, consider the keyboard as a whole. In this case, I have provided above an example sound clip of me typing on the Thermaltake ARGENT K5 sample at ~100 WPM as it comes out of the box with the Cherry MX Blue RGB switches. For context, you can find sound clips from other keyboards here, including those with clicky switches. I did bottom out more often than not, although you can train yourself to feel the tactile bump and stop slightly past that point. You can hear the pinging off the aluminium frame over the switches, in addition to the rattle of the space bar, which is a feat but not in a positive manner given these are clicky switches to begin with.