Build Quality

Overall build quality is solid. When shaking the mouse, a rattle comes from an indeterminable source. When applying lateral pressure, no creaking or flexing of the shell can be observed. Activating the side buttons by squeezing the sides is impossible. Lastly, accidental clicks when slamming down the mouse do not occur regardless of the set debounce time.

Buttons

Main buttons on the NP-01S Wireless are very good. Both pre and post-travel are moderate, but button response is firm and snappy nonetheless. Despite being visually separated from the shell, button movement is nonexistent even when forced. Button stiffness is medium. A pair of Huano switches (pink plunger) is used for these.


Side buttons are very good. Both pre and post-travel are low, resulting in a pleasing yet slightly muted button response. The pressure point is even across the entirety of these. Button size and placement are good, as actuation is possible rather easily by rolling one's thumb across. A set of low-profile Huano switches (white plunger) is used here.

At the bottom of the mouse, three buttons controlling CPI, polling rate, and debounce time can be found, all of which also work fine. Three seemingly unbranded tactile switches are used for these. Lastly, a simple on/off-slider is present, which too works just fine.

Scroll Wheel

The scroll wheel is very good. Noise levels are elevated, but tactility is very good, with clearly separated steps allowing for controlled scrolling without being overly stiff. The encoder comes from ALPS (black) and has a height of 7 mm. The middle (scroll wheel) click requires high force for actuation. An elevated low-profile Huano switch (white plunger) is used for this one.

Surface

The NP-01S Wireless has a matte surface all over. Grip is fine, and it doesn't attract fingerprints or dirt too much. It is easy to clean, and there are no signs of wear left after doing so. All in all, excellent materials.

Button Sound Test

Disassembly

Disassembling the NP-01S Wireless is somewhat difficult. Two Torx T6 screws are found beneath the rear skate, which need to be removed. The top and bottom shell can be separated now, but make sure not to rip the ribbon cables connecting top and bottom.

The internal design is reasonably complex. An endoskeleton is used, which has the PCBs for the top LEDs, side buttons, and main buttons along with the scroll wheel, all three of which are connected to the main PCB through ribbon cables. Removing the endoskeleton is only possible if the main buttons have been detached first. The sensor and MCU are located on the main PCB, which is affixed to the bottom with three screws. The MCU is a PixArt PAR2862QC.


As for the soldering and general quality of the PCB, I'm unable to find any noteworthy flaws.