Disassembly

Disassembly of the Wooting One is fairly simple, but you have to remove some keycaps to access the screws on the top plate as seen above. Once done, a precision Phillips head driver will help separate the top plate from the rest, and note here that one of the screws will be holding a grounding cable in place, so remember to put it back over the "tunnel" to then screw it down when reassembly commences.


The top plate holds all the switches. Given the swappable nature of these optical switches, seeing them from the back gives one a rare perspective on them that includes the stabilizer bars. This also means you can lubricate these easily if need be. The PCB is screwed in place on the ABS plastic piece, so more screws need to be removed here before we can separate the two.


At this point, you can either disconnect the internal USB cable or unscrew the modular connector that allows the Wooting One to have a removable cable. The former is easier and allows for the PCB to be examined without a short cable dangling off to one side. The bottom panel is indeed made out of ABS plastic, as can be seen via the markings on it, and there is an.. interesting.. caricature of someone being very lonely, which might well be an Easter egg, but is still weird if I say so myself.


The internal USB connector was soldered on at an angle, but the connections are strong enough to make it a non-issue. A look at the switch connection also shows the RGB LED for each switch, which helps with the per-key backlighting. The Wooting One is powered by an Atmel XMEGA 128A4U 16-bit microcontroller with 128 KB of programmable flash memory onboard, a dedicated 8 KB memory for the boot section to help store critical settings, 2 KB of EEPROM, and up to 8 KB of SRAM. There is also a Texas Instruments HC4067M CMOS 16-channel analog multiplexer/demultiplexer with an NX1117C series low voltage linear regulator, all soldered onto a multi-layered PCB.