Buttons, Scroll Wheel

Cheaper gaming mice tend to have subpar clicks to more expensive models, and the MM520, MM530, and MM830 all have a noticeably better click-feel than the CM310, although it is still not bad at all. It's a tad mushy, but still spammable, and the clicks are relatively light—they don't feel stiff. The switches used here (and almost everywhere else in the mouse) are manufactured by Fraly and rated for 30 million clicks.


Scrolling feels great with the CM310. Scrolling resistance is relatively light, but has quite a lot of tactility, and the notches are well separated, but not hard to scroll between. The encoder is a brown core F-Switch with a height of 10 millimeters. This is one of two mice I've seen so far with this encoder, along with my trusty Ninox Venator.


The middle mouse button requires slightly more force to actuate than the main buttons. I found it to still be comfortable to use. Its travel distance is average, and the switch beneath it is a gray-shell Kailh model with a black plunger.


As for the side buttons, they feel nice, having next to zero of unnecessary travel and an average actuation force. They can be spammed easily and have good tactile feedback as well. The switches here are once again manufactured by Fraly, but these have a red plunger, and their nominal lifespan is unknown.


There are three buttons beneath the scroll wheel, two of which control the CPI levels, and the middle one switches between lighting options. These have the same switches underneath them as the side buttons, with a good click-feel and no unnecessary travel. While the buttons do not stick out of the shell much, they are not hard to actuate.

I also made a video in order to demonstrate how the buttons sound:

Mouse Feet, Cable

The CM310 has two big feet on its bottom that provide a smooth glide with relatively low friction. This mouse has one of the better stock feet I have had the chance to try so far. Unfortunately, there are no replacement feet in the box, which means if these wear out, you have to get an aftermarket set (or you can contact CM, if I recall correctly; they are always helpful when it comes to mouse feet replacements).

The cable on this mouse is rather thick and moderately stiff, without any braiding. It's not bad, but definitely has some noticeable resistance compared to a more flexible cord. As always, I'd advise affixing it to a bungee or by some other method, like taping it to the back of the monitor, speakers, or simply the wall. It is 1.8 m long, which should be enough for most users.

Disassembling

Disassembling the CM310 is not a hard. However, your mouse feet will most likely be destroyed in the process. I've tried poking holes through them to get to the screws, but it wasn't very effective without knowing where the screws are. There are a total of four Philips-head screws that need to be removed before you can simply pop the two main shell parts apart. Two internal cables hold the lower and upper PCBs together, so be careful not to break these during disassembly.