Disassembly

Most metal frame/case keyboards are easier to disassemble than plastic case variants. Taking apart the ControlPad is a piece of cake because of it and the smaller form factor. All you have to do is remove some of the keycaps as seen above to access six countersunk screws. A precision Phillips screwdriver comes in handy here, and you can then separate the two main pieces of the keypad to where you can reach three internal cables that connect them. There are two cables for the two wheels, and a third internal USB cable goes from the daughter PCB aboard the ABS plastic bottom case piece for the Type-C connector to the PCB itself. With all three cables dislodged, we get a better look at the black PCB, which has switches soldered through the aluminium frame and into it.


A note on the PCB tells us it was designed for the Cooler Master ControlPad, and interestingly, it is marked as "24K" for its 24 keys, possibly suggesting a different ControlPad in the future. The PCB design was also seemingly finalized late 2019, and solder quality is generally very good. Powering the keypad is a Holtek HT50F52352 USB microcontroller; a data sheet of it was not available online. I have seen it used with other backlit keyboards from Ducky, Vortex, and even Cooler Master, all to good effect. It is likely a special version of Holtek's HT32F ARM Cortex-M0/+ USB microcontroller and works fine as far as the ControlPad is concerned. All the components, including the switches, LEDs, and capacitors, are soldered to a multi-layered PCB.

Before we move on, be advised that disassembly may void the warranty and that TechPowerUp is not liable for any damages incurred if you decide to go ahead and do so anyway.