Buttons, Scroll Wheel

Most buttons on the Flick 2 are mediocre. The main ones are not bad, but not stellar either as both have some pre and post travel, and it's not consistent. The right click has more pre travel, and the left button has more post travel after actuation. They aren't separated from the other parts of the shell, which makes them a bit stiff, but they are still very much spammable and tactile rather than mushy. The switches beneath these buttons are Omron D2FC-F-K models rated for 50 million clicks.


I personally really dislike the scroll wheel on the Flick 2, but it is a matter of personal preference. It very much resembles the feel of the Zowie EC-series scroll wheels since it has quite a lot of resistance, and the feedback isn't tactile at all. I can easily stop the wheel between two notches, and there is some play inside one notch as well. The encoder is a 11 mm tall black core TTC model.


All remaining buttons have the same switch model—a blue plunger standard 3 leg micro switch with a branding I don't know the manufacturer of. These have a higher actuation force than the main buttons and feel rather stiff. The middle click doesn't have any unnecessary travel as the clicking is rather tactile but could be lighter for my taste.


The two side buttons aren't bad, but the rear one seems to have quite a lot of unnecessary travel, and the front one is a bit stiffer. Overall, they are very much usable and even spammable.


Lastly, the CPI button, which is located beneath the scroll wheel, is a bit hard to reach, but at least it's out of the way, so no accidental clicks should occur. This one's a bit harder to actuate than the other buttons; it feels stiffer than the rest.

I also made a video in order to demonstrate how the buttons sound:

Mouse Feet

Both the Flick 2 and Clutch 2 share the same feet design, which means there are two huge mouse feet attached to the bottom of the mouse. I am not a fan of big mouse feet as they tend to have a lot more friction than smaller ones. The Flick 2 is no exception; friction is rather high, but the glide is very smooth. Unfortunately, there are no extra mouse feet in the box, which means once these wear out, you will have to use some sort of aftermarket feet, and there are not many aftermarket sets available for the Flick 2 (I found Corepads only, but they should be vastly superior to the factory stock feet).

Cable

The cable on the Flick 2 is pretty good. It has a smooth rubber surface that doesn't generate a lot of drag on the mouse pad. Flexibility is average, while weight and thickness are both a bit below average as well. This cable should fit into most mouse bungees with ease. There is a convenient rubber clip that lets you fold and affix the cable if you so wish. The cable is 1.8 meters (5.9 ft) long.

Disassembling

Disassembling the Flick 2 was tricky at first, but the key is brute force. Once you've removed the two screws beneath the bottom mouse feet, you can simply pop the bottom plate off the top shell. I used a large, flat screwdriver for the process as the two parts seem to love each other very much and don't let go of each other easily. They are secured with some plastic clips internally, which means this mouse won't like getting disassembled a lot, and these clips will eventually wear out and break if you do it a lot. The PCB is very simple and compact; it's basically a one-part design. The top shell doesn't have any electronics. As far as I could tell, the Flick 2 and Clutch 2 use exactly the same PCB.