HK Gaming Naos-M Review 0

HK Gaming Naos-M Review

Sensor & Performance »

Build Quality

Overall build quality is very solid. There is no rattle when shaking the mouse. When applying lateral pressure, minor creaking but no flexing of the shell can be observed. It's impossible to activate the side buttons by squeezing the sides. Lastly, no accidental clicks occur when slamming down the mouse.

Buttons


Main buttons on the Naos-M are very good. Pre-travel is very low and post-travel low to moderate, which results in a firm and satisfying click feel. While the buttons are separated from the shell, there is only minor button wiggle. Button stiffness is light. Omron D2FC-F-7N (20M) (OF) (China) switches are used.


Side buttons are excellent. Both pre and post-travel are low, resulting in a snappy click response. The pressure point is even across the entire buttons, too. Button size and placement is good as actuation is possible rather easily by rolling one's thumb over these. A set of Huano switches (blue plunger) is used here.

At the bottom of the mouse are two buttons for cycling through the RGB lighting effects and the set CPI levels. Their click feel is good. Seemingly unbranded tactile switches are used for these.

Scroll Wheel


The scroll wheel is good. Scrolling up or down produces barely any noise, but the individual steps aren't as separated, resulting in average tactility. The scrolling is very light, but unlike on the Mira-S/M, I didn't have as many issues with accidental scrolling. The encoder comes from Huano. The middle (scroll wheel) click requires high force for actuation. Another Huano switch (white plunger) is used for this one.

Coating

The Naos-M has a smooth matte coating all over. It doesn't attract fingerprints, dirt, or the likes too much. It's easy to clean, and there are no signs of wear left after doing so. All in all, an excellent coating.

Button Sound Test


Disassembly


Disassembling the Naos-M is pretty simple. Remove the rear skate and unscrew the two screws found below. Top and bottom shell should be easy to separate, but some caution not to rip any cables is required. Similar to Glorious mice, the LED stripes on the sides are connected to the main PCB with thin ribbon cables. The side-button PCB is screwed into the top shell and connected through a 3-pin JST connector. Three screws in total are used to affix the main PCB to the bottom shell. Whereas the main PCB is fairly thin, the small side-button PCB is a bit thicker. The MCU is a Bayi BY8949-00006. Production date of the main PCB is the 38th week of 2020.


As for the soldering and general quality of the PCB, I'm unable to find any noteworthy flaws.
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Aug 19th, 2024 17:18 EDT change timezone

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