Build Quality
Overall build quality is solid. When shaking the mouse, a rattle comes from an indeterminable location. When applying lateral pressure, no creaking or flexing of the shell can be observed. Activating the side buttons by squeezing the sides is impossible. Lastly, accidental clicks when slamming down the mouse do not occur, unless debounce time is set to 0 ms
Main buttons on the Xlite V3 eS are good to very good. Both buttons have moderate pre but low post-travel, and button response is rather firm and snappy. Despite being visually separated from the shell, button movement is minimal even when provoked. Button stiffness is medium to low. A pair of RAESHA optical switches (90 M, orange plunger) are used.
Side buttons are very good. Pre-travel is low and post-travel moderate, and actuation even across the entirety of these, resulting in a pleasing and snappy button response. Button size and placement are quite good, as actuation is possible rather easily by rolling one's thumb across. A set of switches from Huano (white plunger) are used for these.
At the bottom of the mouse are two buttons for cycling through the set CPI levels and the available polling rates, both of which work just fine. A seemingly unbranded tactile switch is used for these. A slider at the bottom switches between on and off-state, which also works fine.
The scroll wheel is very good. Noise levels are mostly under control, and tactility is nice as well, with distinct steps allowing for controlled scrolling. The encoder has a Pulsar branding, but comes from F-Switch (blue, pink core), and has a height of 14 mm. The middle (scroll wheel) click requires high force for actuation. An elevated switch from Kailh (black plunger) is used for this one.
Surface
The Xlite V3 eS has a matte surface all over. Grip is fine, but it does attract fingerprints or dirt more than average. It is fairly easy to clean, though getting all signs of wear off entirely can be difficult. All in all, good materials.
Disassembly
Disassembling the Xlite V3 eS is fairly easy. The screws are found beneath the rear skates. Additionally, the sides are clipped in as well, and dislodging these can be difficult, which is why wedging a credit card (or similar) in between may be necessary. When separating the top and bottom, make sure not to rip the cable connecting the two.
The internal design is simple yet efficient. The side buttons sit on their own PCB screwed to the top shell and connected to the main PCB through a ribbon cable. The battery is placed towards the rear above the OLED screen. Four screws are used to affix the very thin main PCB to the bottom shell. Two MCUs are used: An NXP LPC5516, which provides a USB high-speed PHY and whose datasheet can be found
here, along with a Nordic nRF52840 for wireless communication, whose datasheet is found
here. The Bluetooth capability of the latter chip remains unused. The production date for the side-button PCB is the 41st week of 2023.
As for the soldering and general quality of the PCB, I'm unable to find any noteworthy flaws.