Build Quality

Overall build quality is solid. When shaking the mouse, a rattle comes from the scroll wheel. When applying lateral pressure, no creaking or flexing of the shell can be observed. Activating the side buttons by squeezing the sides is impossible. Lastly, accidental clicks when slamming down the mouse do not occur.

Buttons

Main buttons on the Basilisk V3 Pro are very good. While both pre and post-travel are very low on the left main button, the right one has noticeable pre but minimal post-travel. Button response is firm and snappy nevertheless, though feedback isn't uniform between the two, with the left one feeling duller. While the buttons are visually separated from the shell, lateral button movement is minimal and needs to be provoked. Button stiffness is medium. A pair of Razer-branded 3rd-generation optical switches is used.


Side buttons are good to very good. Both buttons have some pre-travel, but post-travel is very low, resulting in a pleasing button response. That said, the back button feels somewhat flimsy. The pressure point is mostly even across the entirety of these. Button placement is good as actuation is possible very easily by rolling one's thumb across. A set of switches (black plunger) from CF (ChangFeng) is used for these.

An additional ("sniper") button is located offset below the forward button. It has high pre but low post-travel. Given that it is more a lever than a button, reaching this one typically requires fully repositioning the thumb. Replacing or removing this button is not possible. Another switch (white plunger) from CF is used for this one.

At the top of the mouse are two additional buttons. By default, the forward button switches between tactile and free-spin scroll wheel operation, whereas the rear button cycles through the set CPI levels. Two seemingly unbranded tactile switches (black plunger) are used for these. The slider at the bottom switches between 2.4 GHz mode, Bluetooth, and off-state, and works just fine. An additional button at the bottom can be used to cycle through the five on-board memory profiles. Another seemingly unbranded tactile switch is used here.

Scroll Wheel

The scroll wheel is very good. Noise levels are elevated, but tactility is very good, resulting in very controlled scrolling. Alternatively, the scroll wheel can be set to free-spinning, which removes all tactility and allows for rapid scrolling. An optical encoder along with a motor for modifying the tactility is used. Actuating the middle (scroll wheel) click requires medium force. Yet another seemingly unbranded tactile switch (black plunger) is used for this one.

The scroll wheel can also be tilted to the left and right, giving access to two additional button functions. A set of seemingly unbranded tactile switches (black plunger) is used for these.

Surface

The Basilisk V3 Pro has a roughened matte surface at the top and hardened rubber with a dot pattern at the sides. Grip is fine, and it doesn't attract fingerprints, dirt, or the likes too easily. Cleaning either surface can be difficult, however, especially if one wants to get off everything. All in all, good materials.

Button Sound Test

Disassembly

Disassembling the Basilisk V3 Pro is easy. First, all skates except for the sensor ring and rear skate need to be removed. Four Torx T6 screws are located under the dongle cover and the two front skates, while a Philips screw is found beneath the thumb-rest skate. The top and bottom shell can now be readily separated.

The internal design isn't particularly complex. The top and side buttons sit on their own PCB screwed into the top shell and connected to the main PCB through a 5-pin connector. The rear LED strip is connected to the main PCB through a ribbon cable. The battery sits on a plastic assembly erected above the sensor, which also provides something for the scroll wheel assembly to slot into, the latter of which too is connected through a ribbon cable. Four screws are used to affix the battery holder to the bottom shell, and an additional two screws are used to secure the main PCB. All PCBs are fairly thin, and the MCU is rear-mounted on the main PCB. The MCU is a Nordic nRF52840, whose datasheet can be found here.


As for the soldering and general quality of the PCBs, I'm unable to find any noteworthy flaws.