Buttons, Scroll Wheel

ROCCAT mice were always top in terms of buttons, but the buttons on the Kain 120 are straight up mind blowing. I'm not sure whether I have objectively had better clicks on a mouse before. The main buttons are extremely good, nice and tactile and with zero unnecessary travel, as well as a fantastic click feel. They are very spammable and of medium tension. ROCCAT uses a patented click-retention mechanism here that's quite complicated as far as I can tell. Both main switches sit on small separate PCBs and are Omron D2FC-F-K models with a nominal lifespan of 50 million clicks.


The Kain 120's scroll wheel is objectively the best one I've ever tried, but from a subjective point of view, it might be a bit too tactile for some people's taste—it's definitely more suitable for precision than long hours of continuous scrolling in a browser, for example. However, firmly in place, the scroll wheel is not wobbly and has no play inside the notches at all. Its surface is heavily textured rubber, which gives it a fantastic feel, and I had no problems with slipping whatsoever. It's also a quite big and wide roller, which gives it some extra comfort points. The encoder is a blue core TTC with a supposed height of 7 mm.


The scroll click is the only button I don't particularly like since it's quite hard and stiff, though thankfully not in an unusable way. It's as stiff mainly because of the mechanism of the clicker—the whole scroll wheel sits in a small case and that case moves down to the switch, which isn't the lightest either. It's a standard 3-legged TTC model with a deep red plunger.


The side buttons feel absolutely fantastic; they are moderately light and have next to no unnecessary travel or play. They sit firmly in their slots without any unwanted movement. Their switches are the same as for the scroll wheel.


The CPI button is a bit mushy, which I think is mainly because it's made out of a silicone-like material. Overall, it's still good and spammable if that's your thing. The switch is a white plunger standard TTC.

I also made a video in order to demonstrate how the buttons sound:

Mouse Feet

This rodent slides on two big skates, but they are at their best if you remove the protective film first. Once done, the Kain 120 can slide across your mouse mat with ease. The feet are very good—they don't have a lot of friction and are very smooth, with well-rounded contact points, so no scraping should occur. My only gripe with them is that there are no replacement sets, so once these wear out, you probably have to go for aftermarket replacements.

Cable

The Kain 120 AIMO uses a braided cable, which is pretty good in terms of flexibility. It's also rather light and doesn't seem to generate too much drag resistance. It's similar to the cords of the HyperX Pulsefire Core and Razer DeathAdder Elite. This cable is 1.8 meters long, which should be enough for most users, and the connector uses the USB 2.0 standard.

Disassembling

Disassembling the Kain 120 is easy at first, but gets progressively harder if you wish to really take it apart comnpletely. There are four standard Philips-head screws beneath the mouse feet which need to be removed first. Once done, you can simply pop the two main shells apart, but do so carefully as there's a big internal ribbon cable. There are six separate PCBs in total, and I couldn't get the main switches and scroll wheel out properly without risking breaking the shell. It's definitely not a DIY-friendly design, but this whole mouse is great without any serious modifications.