Friday, March 25th 2011

Koolance Intros Full-Coverage Water-Block for Radeon HD 6990

by
btarunr
 Discuss (13 Comments)
Water cooling expert Koolance is ready with its full-coverage water-block for the dual-GPU AMD Radeon HD 6990 graphics card, which was launched a little earlier this month. The VID-AR699 from Koolance covers the obverse side of the PCB, cooling critical components there, including the two AMD Cayman GPUs, memory chips, the 450W-capable VRM, and the PEG bridge chip. Internally, the block is partitioned into three distinct bases, one over each GPU, and one over the VRM. The portions over the GPUs feature ribbed micro-fin structures to improve heat dissipation. The three bases are conjoined by a middle-plate that channels coolant through the three bases. The block is then topped off with acetal.

The VID-AR699 measures 10.1" x 4.8 " x 0.8" (25.7cm x 12.2cm x 2cm), and weighs 2.25 pounds (1kg). Its primary material is copper with nickel-plating that minimizes corrosion over time. Its nozzle threading is standard G 1/4 BSP, though the package doesn't include nozzles. Koolance is pricing it at US $159.99 on its online store, it will be taking orders and shipping only after the 28th of this month. In related news, Koolance also announced that it's working on a full-coverage water block for the NVIDIA GeForce GTX 590, the VID-NX590, though there are no specifications or photos out, yet.

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13 Comments on Koolance Intros Full-Coverage Water-Block for Radeon HD 6990

#1
mlee49
EK blocks are sexier. :p


EK fanboi out...
Posted on Reply
#2
Sasqui
I've never come across a Koolance product that sucked. They really do pump out some good hardware, though not always the best.
Posted on Reply
#3
overclocking101
SasquiI've never come across a Koolance product that sucked. They really do pump out some good hardware, though not always the best.
LOL so you never used a koolance fitting?? because up untill like a year ago they all used to rust out, along with their RADS and it has been like 3 years now since they fixed their blocks but all their blocks used to rust out as well.
Posted on Reply
#4
Sasqui
overclocking101LOL so you never used a koolance fitting?? because up untill like a year ago they all used to rust out, along with their RADS and it has been like 3 years now since they fixed their blocks but all their blocks used to rust out as well.
Yep, you just jogged my memory... I did have a rust issue with some of their barbs. And the 345 block I'm using hasn't been taken out since it was installed. I think it's plated copper, so I'm safe - I hope.
Posted on Reply
#5
erocker
*
overclocking101LOL so you never used a koolance fitting?? because up untill like a year ago they all used to rust out, along with their RADS and it has been like 3 years now since they fixed their blocks but all their blocks used to rust out as well.
Koolance used to abide by the brilliant idea of using both copper and aluminum. Corrosion time!
Posted on Reply
#6
Sasqui
erockerKoolance used to abide by the brilliant idea of using both copper and aluminum. Corrosion time!
The rust on the barbs was defintely poor steel and/or shitty job of chrome or nickel plating.

My first watercooled rig was a Koolance PC2 and for it's time, excellent. Gold plated copper or steel and very durable, never had an issue and used it for 5 years! Year 5 ... one of the pumps started to go. :wtf:
Posted on Reply
#7
bear jesus
I have to say i really dislike the broken up blocks, I'm just about to get in to water cooling so i have no experience but to me it seams like the more seals and joints you have the higher the risk of a leak.

This has at least 4 seals and i would be much more comfortable with either one or two max.
Posted on Reply
#8
Animalpak
is a great waterblock is a very sophisticated engineering, we need a key to tighten the bolts with the right amount of pounds, such as those that use mechanical when tightening the wheel nuts. And the risk of loss is averted
Posted on Reply
#9
pantherx12
bear jesusI have to say i really dislike the broken up blocks, I'm just about to get in to water cooling so i have no experience but to me it seams like the more seals and joints you have the higher the risk of a leak.

This has at least 4 seals and i would be much more comfortable with either one or two max.
Don't worry about it man, how often have you had leaking pipes in your house for example ( in my house NEVER, leaking taps loads though :laugh:)

So many joins between pipes yet no leaks : ]

Stationary seals last for years and years and years.
Posted on Reply
#10
Wile E
Power User
Koolance has really turned their water cooling quality around. Their gear is in the top tier these days, and their customer service is fantastic.
Posted on Reply
#11
bear jesus
pantherx12Don't worry about it man, how often have you had leaking pipes in your house for example ( in my house NEVER, leaking taps loads though :laugh:)

So many joins between pipes yet no leaks : ]

Stationary seals last for years and years and years.
Very true although part of my reasoning was to do with cleaning, for one the more parts the longer it takes to clean but it is after cleaning that i would worry about the seals the most as they are all factory tested but once i start screwing around with it the more seals there is the more likely i would be to screw up causing a leak.

I'm pretty sure if i opened all the seals on the pipes in my house then put them back together i would find a leak :laugh:
Posted on Reply
#12
pantherx12
bear jesusVery true although part of my reasoning was to do with cleaning, for one the more parts the longer it takes to clean but it is after cleaning that i would worry about the seals the most as they are all factory tested but once i start screwing around with it the more seals there is the more likely i would be to screw up causing a leak.

I'm pretty sure if i opened all the seals on the pipes in my house then put them back together i would find a leak :laugh:
Don't open it up to clean it, just run a clear loop for 24 hours : ]
Posted on Reply
#13
bear jesus
pantherx12Don't open it up to clean it, just run a clear loop for 24 hours : ]
OK you win :p

But i would still choose a solid block like the EK one for the 6990 as i guess that's just my preference as i like the look more than the broken up blocks and more so as i like the clear acrylic or Lexan/Delrin tops so can see the block under it.
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