Buttons, Scroll Wheel

I was satisfied with the Harpoon's button game; thankfully, there isn't anything significantly wrong with them. Both main buttons feature Omron D2FC-F-K switches that are rated for 50 million clicks. These buttons have pretty much zero unnecessary pre-travel, and only a slight bit of post-travel is present after actuation happens. They are tactile and spammable with moderately light action. The right button feels a tad heavier than the left one, though. I'm pretty sure it's due to the shell design.


Scrolling feels great. It's tactile, but relatively easy to scroll through the steps. I was surprised to see it feature a black core TTC encoder as these tend to have very loose feedback that isn't very tactile. However, as far as I know, that has a lot to do with the axle of the scroll wheel itself as well.


The middle mouse button has a square switch with an extended plunger. It hardly has any travel and no play whatsoever and is of average resistance, which means it's heavier than the main buttons, although not overly stiff.


The side buttons are very snappy and tactile as well; they feel fantastic to actuate and don't seem to have any unnecessary travel either. These buttons use standard Kailh switches.


Lastly, the CPI button is pretty much the same as the side ones, but it's a bit less snappy and needs a tad less force to actuate. The switch is a standard blue plunger from Kailh.

I also made a video in order to demonstrate how the buttons sound:

Mouse Feet

The only thing on this mouse I am really disappointed with is the quality of its mouse feet. They don't feel smooth at all and seem to be too thin to properly clear their slots. Once I was done with my tests, I had to put a set of Hotline WMO feet on top of them to be able to play with the mouse properly. I guess some people are less sensitive to this than others, but it really bugs me how rough they are. Adding a set of aftermarket mouse feet on top of these helps reduce the lift-off distance too, which is quite high on the sensor the Harpoon RGB Wireless uses—you can read more about this on the Sensor & Performance page.

Cable

Of course, we get a cable with the Harpoon RGB Wireless because you need to charge the built-in battery somehow. Fortunately, this cable is pretty light and rather thin, and even though braided, it doesn't seem to be overly stiff. I would much prefer this kind of a cable on both the M65 RGB Elite and Ironclaw RGB as those two mice have some very stiff, thick, and heavy cords. This cable is 1.8 meters long, which should generally be enough for everyone.

Disassembling

Disassembling the Harpoon isn't hard, but you'll probably end up destroying the mouse feet because the four screws that need to be removed are underneath them. Once these are unscrewed, you can simply pop the two main parts of the shell apart—there are some internal wires that connect the different PCBs and the battery, so be careful while doing so.