Buttons, Scroll Wheel

Main buttons are just fantastic on the Model O. They feature absolutely no unnecessary travel and are very snappy and tactile, with amazing feedback. They can be spammed really well, too. As for the actuating force, it is of medium tension, which means they are not too light or stiff. Their switches are Omron D2FC-F-7N models rated for 20 million clicks and with an OF marking on an end. As far as I know, these have a higher life expectancy and go through more rigorous quality control than the standard models.


I was really hoping for a nice scroll wheel on this mouse, and to say I'm impressed is very much an understatement. The scroll wheel uses a brown core F-Switch encoder (10 mm tall), which I've found to be one of the best encoders available next to standard Alps models. It makes for very tactile, but not difficult scrolling. The notches are very well separated, and this scroll wheel can be used for high precision tasks perfectly.


The middle mouse button is also fantastic; it's a tad harder to actuate than the main ones, but is still far from tiring to use often. Its travel isn't overly short like on many newer gaming mice nowadays, and it uses a standard green plunger Huano switch.


Side buttons are also pretty nice—they are slim, but not in the way for accidental clicks, and aren't hidden away in the shell to where they become hard to access, either. They are spammable and tactile, and the switches beneath them are once again green plunger Huanos switches.


Lastly, the CPI changer (which is beneath the scroll wheel) feels a lot like the side buttons, which isn't very surprising as it uses the same Huano switch. This button is very tactile and spammable, too, and of medium click tension. It's relatively easy to access depending on your grip style, but small and well placed in the shell, so no accidental clicks should occur.

I also made a video in order to demonstrate how the buttons sound:

Mouse Feet

The Model O features four relatively small G-Skates mouse feet on its four corners of the bottom plate. These are 100% pure PTFE—without any added coloring or anything that would affect their overall performance. Their contact edges are rounded down very well, and in my book, these are the perfect stock mouse feet. Since they are pure PTFE and not some cheap PTFE-covered plastic feet like on nearly all other gaming mice, they will last longer and provide a better overall gliding experience. They are 0.81 mm thick, which makes them thicker than most, thus increasing their lifespan even further, but they need some time to break in. It took about 6–7 hours of use for me, but depends on the roughness of the gaming surface (which should be a proper mouse pad). My only gripe with these is that there are no replacements in the box, and while PTFE lasts long, it will eventually wear out.

Cable

Mouse feet quality is something most manufacturers don't pay enough attention to, and this usually goes hand-in-hand with cable quality. Now, Glorious obviously didn't hop on that bandwagon, and they use one of the best stock cables I've ever tried. They call it an "ascended" cable, and the thing is, it really is an ascension of sorts if you come from a mouse with a standard cord. This is a sleeved cable that isn't stiff at all—it's extremely flexible and essentially has no drag resistance. I've reviewed a mouse with a similar cable before, the Dream Machines DM1 FPS, and FinalMouse also features similar cables on their newer devices. I really hope equipping mice with cables like this will become a fad among manufacturers.

This cable is 2 meters (6.5 ft) long, which should be more than enough for most users, and if I am correct, the USB 2.0 connector is gold-plated.

Disassembling

Disassembling this Model O is quite easy, but will most probably lead to destroying the stock mouse feet, which is a pity since they are so good. There are two standard Philips-head screws beneath the two bottom mouse feet. Once you removed these, you can simply slide the two main shell parts apart—do so carefully as there are two internal ribbon cables that hold the shells together.