Buttons, Scroll Wheel

Interestingly, even though this mouse is high-end, HyperX didn't use high-end switches with a long lifespan. Instead, they chose the standard Omron D2FC-F-7N switches rated for 20 million clicks. I'm not saying this is a bad thing, but considering the price point, they could have used something better. In terms of click-feel, the main buttons feel great. They have a medium tension and feedback is snappy and tactile with no mushiness whatsoever. Both are easily spammable, too.


Moving on to the scroll wheel, the red core Kailh encoder (I presume it is 9 mm high) provides light, but relatively tactile feedback. The notches are somewhat well separated, but not by as much as in an Alps or TTC white encoder, for instance. It's certainly suitable for precise use as well as heavy scrolling.


The middle click hardly has any travel and requires more force to actuate than the main buttons, which is the case with most gaming mice. Thankfully, it's not overly tight and doesn't feel stiff and mushy. The switch used here is a blue plunger square switch without any branding.


As for the side buttons, they are very snappy and have a rather loud, hollow sound to them. Their actuation force is similiar to the main buttons, and they can be spammed very well too. There are red plunger Kailh switches beneath them.


Lastly, the CPI button, which is beneath the scroll wheel, has properties similar to the side buttons. This button doesn't sound hollow and is less snappy, although still a very good one for sure. It's definitely perfect for changing sensitivity, but I could easily use it for more regular tasks as well because it's very spammable. The switch used here is a standard Kailh switch with a light green plunger.

I also made a video in order to demonstrate how the buttons sound:

Mouse Feet

Just like the two previously reviewed HyperX mice, the Pulsefire FPS Pro has two big mouse feet. These are mediocre at best since they are rather smooth, but have relatively high friction, and their contact points aren't rounded well enough in my opinion. There are no replacements provided, so once the stock set wears out, you should go for aftermarket replacements. Thankfully, they do come off easily and don't seem to leave any glue residue (take note, other manufacturers).

Cable

I initially thought this cable is exactly the same as on the Pulsefire Core, but I'm not sure as this one feels a tad stiffer and thicker, but that might be my imagination only. As for some non-comparative specifications, the cable is still relatively light and flexible for a braided one and doesn't seem to generate much resistance or drag on the mouse pad. It's easy to affix to a bungee if you have one—if not, I'd advise taping it to the table, speakers, edge of the monitor, wall, or anywhere else in order to reduce drag resistance even more. The cable is 1.8 m long, which should be enough for most people.

Disassembling

Disassembling the Pulsefire FPS Pro is very easy—all you need to do is remove four Philips-head screws from beneath the mouse feet. You don't have to peel the feet off as you can simply poke a hole through with a pointy screwdriver (I had to peel the feet off a little to look for the exact locations first). There is no upper PCB in the mouse, which means you don't have to worry about internal cables. You can simply pop apart the two main shells.