# i7 Overheating (OEM Cooler)



## hhempel (Jan 6, 2010)

This is only my 3rd build, so please be kind (but brutally honest)...

I started having some thermal shutdowns unexpectedly on this new build:
MB: Gigabyte GA-p55m-ud2
CPU: CORE i7 Lynnfield 2.8Ghz (stock cooler today)
RAM:  8GB (4x2GB)
OS:  Win7 Pro (64bit)
Vid: GE Force 9500
Case:  Antec Mini P180 (microATX)
Power:  Corsair tx750​
I admit that I did not run a temp check upon build completion and have been running for about a week...  I beleive that the temps in the first test below have been consitent since the build, but can not be certain...

I can achieve "normal" operating temps by running the CPU at 2 Ghz (failsafe BIOS)...

I am looking for input on how to able to run the CPU at rated speeds or better and still run well below 60 degrees C MAX in the cores.

The following images tell the story...

*RealTemp Test Results (Prime95:  Small FFTs)​*
TEST # 1
(CPU Overclocked to 3.3Ghz)







TEST # 1b (confirmation)
(CPU Overclocked to 3.3Ghz)






TEST # 2
(Bios Settings at “Load Fail Safe”:  CPU @ 2Ghz)






TEST # 3
(Bios Settings at “NORMAL”:  CPU @ 2.8Ghz per specs)





 
SpeedFan Info from Test #3 above:







First Attempt at Thermal Grease…











Any input at all is welcome...  Happy to provide more info if needed...

I am planning on replacing the OEM heatsink/fan and suggestions are welcome (1156)

Thanks a million in advance!

Hugh


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## Solaris17 (Jan 6, 2010)

the advice is not to OC. since the first days of the I7 overclocking thread the general consensus is that OC'ing an I7 on stock cooling is suicide and for people with alot of money to blow on cheap laughs


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## SummerDays (Jan 6, 2010)

I need a counter for everytime I say this: 

Don't use the stock i7 cooler.  Get an aftermarket cooler.

Not having built a lot of these, you probably didn't know that yet.


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## DRDNA (Jan 6, 2010)

But also and furthermore you should get that paste off and reapply with something like Ceramique.and get you an aftermarket cooler like a V8 for example.


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## hhempel (Jan 6, 2010)

Thanks!  Great replies!

I would be happy to run "rated clock" on upgraded cooling if I can keep the cpu below ~50C in heavy loads...  Doable?  

Right now, I am hovering at 45C at idle when running "Stock"...


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## SummerDays (Jan 6, 2010)

Unless you're doing something serious like b.o.i.n.c.i.n.g.  (yes, I actually said that) at 100% usage you probably don't need to worry about the temps with an aftermarket cooler that much.

If you do, then water would be a better choice.


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## mlee49 (Jan 6, 2010)

Your gonna need watercooling if you want 50s on load.  Even the best cant keep most i7s under 70 at load, mine doesn't.


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## DRDNA (Jan 6, 2010)

these run a bit warm on the normal but you are best to stay out of the 90 arena you can do a couple of thing till you get a good cooler....start with running with the side panel off...get a fan blowing toward the open panel on the case ... get some paste and redo that paste job in the picture....  you should be better with that till upgrade but plz do watch them temps.


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## Solaris17 (Jan 6, 2010)

hhempel said:


> Thanks!  Great replies!
> 
> I would be happy to run "rated clock" on upgraded cooling if I can keep the cpu below ~50C in heavy loads...  Doable?
> 
> Right now, I am hovering at 45C at idle when running "Stock"...



the best way to keep your temps down for now before you get a really good air cooler (and dont misunderstand you need a really good air cooler like high end xig/noctua etc) is to put some thermal paste on the proc (after cleaning it) and take a credit card or put your figures in a ziplock or something. and evenly coat the entire proc. then carefully reapply the cooler making sure you maintain even pressure until the cooler is locked down.


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## erocker (Jan 6, 2010)

The CPU should not be getting that hot at stock speeds with the stock cooler if it was attatched properly. If you believe the cooler is installed properly and you are getting those temps, I would contact Intel as those load temperatures are unacceptable. You should not have to get an aftermarket heatsink for your CPU to run at acceptable temperatures.


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## DRDNA (Jan 6, 2010)

That too


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## mlee49 (Jan 6, 2010)

They are not erocker, his "Load Fail Safe" run shows it's maxing out at 62 at stock. Edit, saw the 2.8 run and that is very hot!  ouch! 

Edit, I believe his thermal paste may be a bit of a problem.


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## hhempel (Jan 6, 2010)

OK!  Thanks a bunch to all!  

My Plan:  
  Get a good quality aftermarket cooler... (thinking Thermalright MUX-120 with 2-120mm fans)
  Reapply Paste properly...  (I am sure that this is at least part of the issue)
  Accept that 70s at FULL load are probably the best I can expect...

I will report back once installed!

Thanks again!


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## Solaris17 (Jan 6, 2010)

erocker said:


> The CPU should not be getting that hot at stock speeds with the stock cooler if it was attatched properly. If you believe the cooler is installed properly and you are getting those temps, I would contact Intel as those load temperatures are unacceptable. You should not have to get an aftermarket heatsink for your CPU to run at acceptable temperatures.



i disagree at 100% load on I7's temperatures in that ran on stock cooling and speeds are easily attainable depending on case flow. especially if you are loading all cores at 100%


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## newtekie1 (Jan 6, 2010)

The stock cooler isn't great, but 90°C definitely isn't right, and from the looks of that thermal grease, you are using waaaay to much.

Under 70°C under load at stock settings with the stock cooler@100% is doable.  Under 60°C probably isn't, and I don't think even the best air cooling can keep them under 50°C.

Part of the problem might be that the motherboard is overvolting the processor by default, go into the BIOS and manually adjust the CPU voltage.  If speedfan is reading the VCORE properly, 1.58v seems WAY high to me for stock speeds.  The last i7 I put together I think the default vcore was something like 1.1 or 1.2v.


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## DRDNA (Jan 6, 2010)

I don't like how the paste contact looks in the picture for sure...reaply and bet things improve at stock.


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## erocker (Jan 6, 2010)

Solaris17 said:


> i disagree at 100% load on I7's temperatures in that ran on stock cooling and speeds are easily attainable depending on case flow. especially if you are loading all cores at 100%



So you are saying the cooler that comes with a new CPU is insufficient to work at it's rated speeds? Not acceptable. Case airflow should not have to be anything spectacular. I don't buy a new car just to have to put a different cooling system in so it will work properly, any other piece of equipment shouldn't be any different. Especially a CPU.


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## DRDNA (Jan 6, 2010)

erocker said:


> So you are saying the cooler that comes with a new CPU is insufficient to work at it's rated speeds? Not acceptable.* Case airflow should not have to be anything spectacular*. I don't buy a new car just to have to put a different cooling system in so it will work properly, any other piece of equipment shouldn't be any different. Especially a CPU.



Intel's CPU'S are rated at a tolerance levels of ambient heat too.


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## erocker (Jan 6, 2010)

DRDNA said:


> I don't like how the paste contact looks in the picture for sure...reaply and bet things improve at stock.



Looking at it, I agree. It looks like one or two pins on the left of the CPU picture weren't mounted correctly as the paste is barely spread out.


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## Solaris17 (Jan 6, 2010)

erocker said:


> So you are saying the cooler that comes with a new CPU is insufficient to work at it's rated speeds? Not acceptable. Case airflow should not have to be anything spectacular. I don't buy a new car just to have to put a different cooling system in so it will work properly, any other piece of equipment shouldn't be any different. Especially a CPU.



the processor is operating within TJ Max that being the case their isnt anything wrong (in intels eyes) with those temps. personal preference has nothing to do with rated temperature acceptence.


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## erocker (Jan 6, 2010)

I think a CPU-Z screenshot is in order. SpeedFan doesn't always show voltage correctly.

*I'm pretty sure 98c is above Intel's TJ Max.


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## Solaris17 (Jan 6, 2010)

erocker said:


> I think a CPU-Z screenshot is in order. SpeedFan doesn't always show voltage correctly.
> 
> *I'm pretty sure 98c is above Intel's TJ Max.



TJ max is in/past 100C for i7 i5


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## DRDNA (Jan 6, 2010)

hhempel said:


> Case:  Antec Mini P180 (microATX)




I bet the ambients in that are what an oven burning bread


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## erocker (Jan 6, 2010)

Well, cutting it a bit close for my comfort. I know damn well, if everything was mounted correctly and I got those temps it would be back to Intel with it. I really don't care what TJ Max is, 98c is too damn hot. But, whatever that's what I would do. Besides, the CPU could be throttling at that temperature regardless.


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## DRDNA (Jan 6, 2010)

DRDNA said:


> I bet the ambients in that are what an oven burning bread



OR MAYBE NOT.....
•Two separate thermal chambers, with the bottom mounted PSU having direct  access to outside air in order minimize the heat through it and thus keep its fan from speeding up. 
•The main chamber  has two exhaust fans, a 120mm fan on the back panel and a 200mm fan on the top, directly over the motherboard area. The latter obviously dominates as  its airflow will easily be three times that of the 120mm fan.
•It's the , combination of the large top mounted fan, the extra internal partition, and the need for some space for the PSU fan to breathe


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## Solaris17 (Jan 6, 2010)

erocker said:


> Well, cutting it a bit close for my comfort. I know damn well, if everything was mounted correctly and I got those temps it would be back to Intel with it. I really don't care what TJ Max is, 98c is too damn hot. But, whatever that's what I would do.



i agree i was just stating fact. still i dont think the proc is the issue.


voltage

HS

TIM


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## erocker (Jan 6, 2010)

Solaris17 said:


> i agree i was just stating fact. still i dont think the proc is the issue.
> 
> 
> voltage
> ...



I have the internet at my disposal too. Thanks.  

Like I said, looking at the way the TIM is spread out, bad mounting job.


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## Solaris17 (Jan 6, 2010)

erocker said:


> I have the internet at my disposal too. Thanks.
> 
> Like I said, looking at the way the TIM is spread out, bad mounting job.



i wasnt implying that you didnt. but seeing as you would rather argue samantics instead of looking i decided to do it for you. /rainbows and stuff/ but it doesnt matter now. either way you look at it. a new cooler is needed for the clocks he has been trying/wants to obtain. That and a new cooler would probably get rid of his mount problems as most dont use those stupid clips.


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## hhempel (Jan 6, 2010)

More good suggestions and thanks again to all...  Here are 2 screen grabs from CPU-z on the voltage issue (top image is idle, bottom image is FULL load (PRIME 95)):












For the record, I have been playing around all day with various "configs" on this case (open, full fans (both), slow fans (both))  Absolutely no differences...  My take is that the "ambients" in the case are not a factor...

I am now zeroing in on the paste mount...  I REALLY hate the OEM push pin solution...  It is FAR from ideal as their is very little way to "postively mount" the fan...  The pressure applied by the OEM solution is totally inadequate IMHO...

Thanks again!


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## erocker (Jan 6, 2010)

Solaris17 said:


> i wasnt implying that you didnt. but seeing as you would rather argue samantics instead of looking i decided to do it for you. /rainbows and stuff/ but it doesnt matter now. either way you look at it. a new cooler is needed for the clocks he has been trying/wants to obtain. That and a new cooler would probably get rid of his mount problems as most dont use those stupid clips.



Aww, don't get upset, I'm sitting here happy as a clam, not trying to make you cry . Besides my original post in this thread wasn't directed at you but I think you thought that it was. As far as I know, they are trying to obtain stock clocks. 



hhempel said:


> More good suggestions and thanks again to all...  Here are 2 screen grabs from CPU-z on the voltage issue:
> 
> http://hempelfamily.com/images/CPU-Z-01-06-2010.JPG
> 
> ...



Well, that all looks great. Keep working with the cooler and try to get it mounted correctly. 


vV*That's a good boy, daddy luffs you.Vv


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## Solaris17 (Jan 6, 2010)

erocker said:


> Aww, don't get upset, I'm sitting here happy as a clam, not trying to make you cry . As far as I know, they are trying to obtain stock clocks.



i know dad i was just putting on some theatrics. moving on it seems the voltage is indeed fine. the only thing to really do now is make sure you put on a thin coat of TIM evenly and make sure you mount the stock cooler right because those clips are uber fail. make sure their not broken and when you mount it give it a little pull in each direction to make sure a corner isnt messed up. then flip the board over and make sure the white/black clips are all pushed through all the way.



> vV*That's a good boy, daddy luffs you.Vv



lol [/hugs and good bonding time infront of the fire with rifles overhead and beers]


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## sneekypeet (Jan 6, 2010)

rotate the pegs and try to "click in the legs" while the cooler is in your hands to verify they are turned correctly for mounting. After this turn em to unlock them, then reset the cooler to its "lockable" possition.

When it is mounted, you should feel the white bits settle into the holes in the motherboard. Push each leg into the board until you hear it click into locked possition. a gentle tug on the top of the cooler once all the legs are locked should verify if it is on solid or not.


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## Jflynn0 (Jan 6, 2010)

if you consider the cosair H50 is nice. I brought one from Best Buy $60.  I overclocked my i7 920 to 4.0 with no problem. max temp is 50C with real temp using prime 95


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## newtekie1 (Jan 7, 2010)

hhempel said:


> More good suggestions and thanks again to all...  Here are 2 screen grabs from CPU-z on the voltage issue (top image is idle, bottom image is FULL load (PRIME 95)):
> 
> http://hempelfamily.com/images/CPU-Z-01-06-2010.JPG
> 
> ...



Inadequate?  It applies so much pressure it bends the motherboard...

And you know it is on there good when you can't lift up, it will feel solidly mounted.

The voltages in the CPUz screen shot looks better, but then again I've seen CPUz be wrong just as often as Speedfan...  I'd still set it to something like 1.1v manually in the BIOS.


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## hhempel (Jan 7, 2010)

newtekie1 said:


> Inadequate?  It applies so much pressure it bends the motherboard...
> 
> And you know it is on there good when you can't lift up, it will feel solidly mounted.
> 
> The voltages in the CPUz screen shot looks better, but then again I've seen CPUz be wrong just as often as Speedfan...  I'd still set it to something like 1.1v manually in the BIOS.



Maybe it was just my 'noobness', but I really struggles to get the pins to work and hold...  I ultimately got it done, but it was tough and while the heatsink/fan were definitely 'attached', it never seemed to be 'solid'... 

It might sound totally nuts, but my MB is marketed as "heavier"...  Is it conceivable that the board's thickness would affect the mounting?

In any case, I ordered a new cooler that has "through the board" mounting...  Will report back as soon as I get it all installed (end of the week)...

I will definitely set the voltages manually as suggested...

Thanks again!


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## mastrdrver (Jan 7, 2010)

hhempel said:


> OK!  Thanks a bunch to all!
> 
> My Plan:
> Get a good quality aftermarket cooler... (thinking Thermalright MUX-120 with 2-120mm fans)
> ...



If you want a good one, spend the money and get a Mega or Noctua NH-D14. The Mega may be cheaper, but if you add in two 120mm fans, you'll be at the same price of the Noctua.

What something that is cheaper but still able to give you a little overclocking room then I'd go with the Xigmatek 1283 and bolt down kit. It's the same as my relabeled OCZ Vendetta 2. I was able to push to ~1.25v on the core before temps started to climb into the mid to upper 80s on my i7. It's about $40 after rebates and shipping.

I will say that even though my Noctua cost about twice as much as my V2, it pushes just as far but with a lot less noise. Doing passive with 24C ambient at stock clocks is a breeze.


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## theonedub (Jan 7, 2010)

Whenever I have to use push pin HSFs in builds I have to take the MB out to be able to maneuver and verify that the pins are installed right- plus a case is too cramped for my hands. I think that is most likely the issue here. 

As for Speedfan's Vcore2 value, my guess is that is the RAM voltage just mislabeled.


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## Hayder_Master (Jan 7, 2010)

i guess it's turbo boost cuz , it's automatically overclock the cpu over 3.4ghz , i see the stock cooler of i7 860 it's really crap 2cm height damn cooler , and also im feeling good when i see this cpu can run under 100c


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## hhempel (Jan 9, 2010)

*Update: i7 Overheating (OEM Cooler)*

Bought the Thermalright Mux 120 (1156)... A real beauty and only ~$60 delivered... 

Installed relatively easy (MB totally out for through-da-board).

First round of tests were very gratifying with the core idling around 21C:






Second round of tests at 3.8OC were too hot (90s at full load)

Last round of tests found a comfortable OC for me at 3.3Ghz:






Thanks again to ALL for your timely and constructive input!

Hugh


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## DRDNA (Jan 9, 2010)

Put a faster rpm fan on that baby and you will go even further!


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## dr emulator (madmax) (Jan 10, 2010)

DRDNA said:


> Put a faster rpm fan on that baby and you will go even further!



i wondered who would spot the speed of the fan 1024rpm 
(i've not got one so i don't know for sure what they are supposed to run at)
but surely guys that speed is totaly inadequate, 
my big 120mm runs at 1400rpm and my 80mm fans run between 2200-2500rpm 
and that's with a speed controller in between so ergo


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