# Cooling for VRM/Socket



## Mrblack761 (Mar 20, 2016)

Im trying to push my fx 8320 (currently at 4.4ghz) even further but Im experiencing throttling down to 1.3ghz~ when stress testing because of the socket getting up to 70c~. I've searched online and it seems to be a possible solution is to point a fan at the VRM and or Socket, my only issue with that is mounting and clearance. Any solutions?

Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (No window)
CPU: AMD FX 8320 @ 4.4ghz
CPU cooler:  Corsair H100i
Mobo: Asus M5A99FX Pro R2.0
GPU: R9 390X
PSU: Corsair CX750M

attached pictures for reference:


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## Caring1 (Mar 20, 2016)

Dump the AIO cooling and get a decent downward facing air cooler, or, move the rear fan down towards the slots and turn it around so it blows in.


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## Mrblack761 (Mar 20, 2016)

Caring1 said:


> Dump the AIO cooling and get a decent downward facing air cooler, or, move the rear fan down towards the slots and turn it around so it blows in.


Youre saying that something like this will work? (for the second option)


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## micropage7 (Mar 20, 2016)

Mrblack761 said:


> Youre saying that something like this will work? (for the second option)
> 
> View attachment 73034


could be or you may consider full water block on vrm

but before that please check the thermal pads, you may replace them with the better pad and test it again


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## vega22 (Mar 20, 2016)

better contact and mount can help lots, but just a fan would help too.


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## redundantslurs (Mar 20, 2016)

Since your case have no windows, I assume you don't really care for aesthetics.  Why not just attach a fan right next to them with zip ties?


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## Mrblack761 (Mar 20, 2016)

redundantslurs said:


> Since your case have no windows, I assume you don't really care for aesthetics.  Why not just attach a fan right next to them with zip ties?


I just don't know what to attach the zip ties to?


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## CAPSLOCKSTUCK (Mar 20, 2016)

Use a screw with a point on it, you may only need one.





You only need a tiny "bite" with the screw, this h/s is aluminium and it hasnt moved at all.





Here you can see it "in action"


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## Mrblack761 (Mar 20, 2016)

CAPSLOCKSTUCK said:


> Use a screw with a point on it, you may only need one.
> 
> View attachment 73038
> 
> ...


I mean as long as it doesn't short my board I guess I'll try it. Might be kinda difficult seeing how my h/s is at an angle. Will report back as soon as I can.


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## CAPSLOCKSTUCK (Mar 20, 2016)

You wont short your board, the h/s merely a piece of metal, no current passes through it. I have also used matchsticks to solve the same problem. Just jam them in, you wont break anything.


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## newtekie1 (Mar 20, 2016)

Well, I'd flip the back fan around so that it is blowing cool air into the case.  I'd also move it down a little on the mounting rails so it lines up better with the VRM area.  Then it might be as simple as constructing a duct to divert a portion of the air from the back 120mm down onto the motherboard.  You can make the duct out of cardboard and duct tape.


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## eidairaman1 (Mar 20, 2016)

Im Air Cooled on a Scythe Ashura at 5.1GHz. At 5.2GHz i hit the thermal barrier


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## overclocking101 (Mar 20, 2016)

yeah some of theese boards that have insufficient heatsinks for the amount of heat the vrms throw need a fans its just that simple. but with the pics you posted you could easily attach a ziptie to the cooling pipe or the screw idea would work


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## CAPSLOCKSTUCK (Mar 20, 2016)

If they are hot, improving airflow in the case will do very little, you need a fan. Attaching a fan to either of the heatsinks will cool the other as they are both connected via the pipe.


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## Mrblack761 (Mar 24, 2016)

It took a few days but I managed to aquire a small fan from my IT professor. I tried mounting the fan on the rear of the motherboard pointing at the back of the socket, and on the vrm's on the front side of the motherboard. The results were very odd.

For the rear mounting temperatures rose slower, but my cpu socket began to throttle at 68c. This is strange for me cause it would usually throttle at 70c.

 

[I forgot to save a picture of the results of the temps for the rear mounting]

The vrm mounting on the front side gave the oddest results. Temperatures rose quickly on the socket to a maximum of *74c*, but there was *little to* *no throttling*? I have no idea what to say, I could be reading the temps wrong?


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## Caring1 (Mar 24, 2016)

Your Motherboard temp is fine, it's the CPU that is hot, is the AIO mounted correctly and is the paste applied properly too?
Are fans PWM or have you set the speed yourself?


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## little cat (Mar 24, 2016)

I would add one extra front fan and one extra top fan . There must be 3 top fans 120/140mm Another option is to put the radiators in front and two fans on top .

http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-r5-black










Both the motherboard and the case are very good


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## Mrblack761 (Mar 24, 2016)

Caring1 said:


> Your Motherboard temp is fine, it's the CPU that is hot, is the AIO mounted correctly and is the paste applied properly too?
> Are fans PWM or have you set the speed yourself?



Yes the I've mounted it correctly and the amount of paste I used is correct too. For the fans I replaced the stock fans with these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corsair-Air...ressure-Twi-/301380789772?hash=item462bb1e60c

I have to set the speed myself with Fan Xpert in AI suite II

 

Funny enough the "chassis fan" control the fans on the radiator and the "CPU fan" controls the pump in the cpu block itself.



little cat said:


> I would add one extra front fan and one extra top fan . There must be 3 top fans 120/140mm Another option is to put the radiators in front and two fans on top .
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-r5-black
> 
> ...



Currently I put both of the fans that came with the case in the front for dual intake, I have a one fan in the back and the radiator fans on top for exhaust.


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## CAPSLOCKSTUCK (Mar 24, 2016)

Is the pump actually pumping?

Put a finger on it when you start your PC, there is a chance that you will feel and hear a faint knock when it starts to pump.


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## Caring1 (Mar 24, 2016)

I'd have the radiator fans connected to the CPU header so they push more air out earlier, leave the chassis fans as they are.


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## RejZoR (Mar 24, 2016)

These heatsinks are cool to screw in any tiny fan through those heatsink gaps.


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## Schmuckley (Mar 24, 2016)

http://www.overclock.net/t/1503843/my-bong-cooler-build-log-evaporative-cooling/0_100


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## Mrblack761 (Mar 24, 2016)

CAPSLOCKSTUCK said:


> Is the pump actually pumping?
> 
> Put a finger on it when you start your PC, there is a chance that you will feel and hear a faint knock when it starts to pump.


yes the pump is functioning correctly


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## CAPSLOCKSTUCK (Mar 24, 2016)

Have a look to see what Realtemp says.
https://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/SysInfo/Real_Temp/

turn off  HWMonitor and any other monitoring s/w.


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## newtekie1 (Mar 24, 2016)

Mrblack761 said:


> The vrm mounting on the front side gave the oddest results. Temperatures rose quickly on the socket to a maximum of *74c*, but there was *little to* *no throttling*? I have no idea what to say, I could be reading the temps wrong?



The CPU temperatures is coming from a sensor in the socket, or somewhere around the socket, not the actual CPU.  The Package sensor is the actual CPU temperature.  I had that motherboard before I replaced with with my 990FX Extreme9, and I can tell you that CPU sensor is garbage.

Also, the reason the CPU temperature is getting hotter is because the VRMs are no longer throttling due to heat.  When the VRMs were throttling they weren't letting the CPU work as hard, and the CPUs temperature didn't get as high.  Putting the fan on the VRM heatsink keeps them cooler, and stops the throttling.  You aren't throttling because of the CPU temperate, you are throttling because of VRM temperature, and there isn't a sensor reporting that.



CAPSLOCKSTUCK said:


> Have a look to see what Realtemp says.
> https://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/SysInfo/Real_Temp/
> 
> turn off  HWMonitor and any other monitoring s/w.



Realtemp doesn't support AMD processors.

Coretemp would work though.  However, we are all looking at the wrong temp reading in HWMonitor.  We need to be concerned with the Package temp reading, that is the sensor on the actual processor.  The "CPU" sensor is somewhere on the motherboard, who knows where and who knows how accurate is actually is.  Coretemp will give the same reading as the Package sensor in HWMonitor, because they are reading the same sensor from the CPU.


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## Mrblack761 (Mar 24, 2016)

[UPDATE]

I took out the small fan on the vrm's because the rattling sound it made is making me go insane. I've decided to probably invest in one of these: 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Antec-Spot-...322634?hash=item566461dd0a:g:FYsAAOxy9X5TW63R

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Antec-SpotC...377092?hash=item43e8abb984:g:NG8AAOSwwpdW86Yg



newtekie1 said:


> The CPU temperatures is coming from a sensor in the socket, or somewhere around the socket, not the actual CPU.  The Package sensor is the actual CPU temperature.  I had that motherboard before I replaced with with my 990FX Extreme9, and I can tell you that CPU sensor is garbage.
> 
> Also, the reason the CPU temperature is getting hotter is because the VRMs are no longer throttling due to heat.  When the VRMs were throttling they weren't letting the CPU work as hard, and the CPUs temperature didn't get as high.  Putting the fan on the VRM heatsink keeps them cooler, and stops the throttling.  You aren't throttling because of the CPU temperate, you are throttling because of VRM temperature, and there isn't a sensor reporting that.
> 
> ...



Should I stress test and show you the results of the temps of Coretemp? I feel like that would be redundant though.


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## newtekie1 (Mar 24, 2016)

Mrblack761 said:


> Should I stress test and show you the results of the temps of Coretemp? I feel like that would be redundant though.



Not necessary, HWMonitor shows the same sensor under "Package".


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