# Ssd upgrade



## stuartb04 (May 31, 2018)

Hey guys 

Looking to upgrade to an ssd now. 

What are the essentials i need to know. 

Data transfer from old hd to new, cable extras etc. 

Samsung 850 EVO 500 GB 2.5 inch Solid State Drive https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00P73B1E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bC7dBbPNQE8GP


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## TheLostSwede (May 31, 2018)

Well, for one, you won't see the full benefit of an SSD on that motherboard, as it only has SATA II ports, not SATA III, so you're capped at 3Gbps instead of 6Gbps.
Obviously you'll still get the benefits of much faster access times, especially for random files.
Apart from that, it works just like a hard drive, although you don't want to fill your SSD to the brim, as they slow down a lot if you do that.
Oh and keep the firmware up to date.


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## stuartb04 (May 31, 2018)

Ah ok
What mobo would be ideal without changing too many of the components that i already have. 
Minimal costs preferable.


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## TheLostSwede (May 31, 2018)

The Z67/H77/Z77/B75 (B75 only has one 6Gbps port natively) chipsets will all do the job. Don't get a P67 or H67, as they have a broken SATA controller implementation and the SATA 6Gbps ports will stop working...
Another option would be to get a SATA 6Gbps PCIe card, but it can be a bit messy to boot from and the performance is normally only 80-90% of that of the integrated SATA controller.


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## Deeveo (May 31, 2018)

You get most of the benefits from moving from HDD to SSD even with SATA 2. Only maximum transfer rate is lower. I had a old laptop which I upgraded to SSD (SATA 2) and it felt like a new computer after that.


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## bug (May 31, 2018)

You don't want a SSD for transfer rates, but for dramatically faster seek times. The rule of the thumb is still: get the biggest drive that fits into your budget.

850 EVO is a fine choice. Recently I got a 1TB Crucial MX300 for a reasonable price. That was superseded by MX500 less than a month later. I'd look at these three if I were you.

Also, the P67/H67 have been fixed within months of their release. I have a P67 collecting dust somewhere, after years of faithful service.


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## TheLostSwede (May 31, 2018)

bug said:


> Also, the P67/H67 have been fixed within months of their release. I have a P67 collecting dust somewhere, after years of faithful service.



So if you buy a second hand board, what will you get? You have no idea, so is it worth risking it?


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## bug (May 31, 2018)

TheLostSwede said:


> So if you buy a second hand board, what will you get? You have no idea, so is it worth risking it?


There's no risk if it didn't die well into 2018


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## TheLostSwede (May 31, 2018)

bug said:


> There's no risk if it didn't die well into 2018



No? It all depends if the ports were used or not. If they weren't used, they didn't decay. I wouldn't chance, but your'e welcome too. I hope the OP isn't foolish enough to chance it.
I saw boards that took a couple of years to fail, it wasn't an instant thing and it's not the same for all boards.


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## bug (May 31, 2018)

TheLostSwede said:


> No? It all depends if the ports were used or not. If they weren't used, they didn't decay. I wouldn't chance, but your'e welcome too. I hope the OP isn't foolish enough to chance it.
> I saw boards that took a couple of years to fail, it wasn't an instant thing and it's not the same for all boards.


I'd send him my board for free, but I flashed the BIOS and now it won't start with a Sandy Bridge CPU


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## John Naylor (May 31, 2018)

I would recommend installing the OS new and fresh.... chances are good that you'll see  as much of a benefit from that as you will from the hardware change.  As far as the interface, you'd be hard pressed to notice... inless you have the ability to discern the difference in speed ovcer fractions of a second.  Sure.... you can move  aTB of files and be able to tell the difference side by side, but as 99.9% of storage access occurs in less than a second, when  other than a drive transfer, exactly when are you going tpo see ythat on the desktop.   If you were rendering or video editing large files maybe, if you are really into artificial benchmarks OK ... but every day use, ya not going to notice.  We switched up 5 user's builds back and forth from SSDs, SSHDs and fast HDs over 6 weeeks ... twice, (once on desktop, once on lappie) and no one noticed.


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## jsfitz54 (May 31, 2018)

My understanding is the *B3* revision of MSI H61M-P25 (B3) does not have a sata port issue as it was revised, hence B3.

Any SSD will show improvement and the Samsung 850 EVO is a solid drive.

A clean install is preferred when going from HD to SSD.

Bios is in AHCI mode currently?


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## FireFox (May 31, 2018)

John Naylor said:


> I would recommend installing the OS new and fresh.... chances are good that you'll see as much of a benefit from that as you will from the hardware change.



Yeap, it is always the same after a new fresh install but once you start installing programs and so in a few weeks or a month it will start slowing down


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## Deeveo (May 31, 2018)

You might want to take into account possibly having to buy a new Windows license depending on the type you have now when considering getting a new motherboard. I'd stick with the current board for now, and then if you really need the xtra sequential transfer speed get a new mobo.



jsfitz54 said:


> A clean install is preferred when going from HD to SSD.
> 
> Bios is in AHCI mode currently?



Yes, definitely clean install with bios set to AHCI when installing OS to SSD.


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## stuartb04 (May 31, 2018)

hey guys

thanks for the your input and advice.

i have just bought the ssd.
will receive it tomorrow.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B078WQT6S6/ref=psdc_430505031_t1_B00P73B1E4

also bought the bracket and sata and power cables

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-In..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=DJF0FBYMTGZEBDRCCDD5


will get a new mobo in a couple of months maybe.

anything else i may need before setting up?


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## Final_Fighter (May 31, 2018)

what is your primary use for the computer? if its not being used for anything other then browsing and basic everyday tasks then i would not worry about upgrading the motherboard. the sata 2 port will be just fine and the cost and hassle to go to a new motherboard just for sata 2 is not worth it.


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## stuartb04 (May 31, 2018)

Final_Fighter said:


> what is your primary use for the computer? if its not being used for anything other then browsing and basic everyday tasks then i would not worry about upgrading the motherboard. the sata 2 port will be just fine and the cost and hassle to go to a new motherboard just for sata 2 is not worth it.



i do game quite a bit.-Destiny 2 mainly.


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## Final_Fighter (May 31, 2018)

in order to get the games to load significantly faster you will need to load them on the ssd too. the games will load faster off the hdd then before if your intent is to run the ssd as the os drive and the hdd as the storage drive sense windows wont be using the resources the drive has to offer. it wont be as huge as if you ran them off the ssd but not half bad either. its actually not a bad setup and thats why a lot of people will go with a 128gb/256gb ssd as the os drive and use an hdd as the storage drive.

i am assuming this is the first ssd you've bought so my recommendation is to give it a try. i know that going from an hdd like the one you are currently running to an ssd will be almost night and day difference, even with it hooked up to a sata2 port.

beings that i dont know your budget but if you can afford to upgrade your system it might not be a bad idea now that you are going to be redoing the os. a new system today should last you for the next 5 years. you would only need the proc, ram, and mobo. a little trick to upgrading is try to upgrade at the end of your 4th year of having it. you can get a decent price for your hardware and put it towards a new system. plus most componets like your psu, case, fans and sometimes ram and hdd/ssd can be resused too.


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## stuartb04 (May 31, 2018)

Final_Fighter said:


> in order to get the games to load significantly faster you will need to load them on the ssd too. the games will load faster off the hdd then before if your intent is to run the ssd as the os drive and the hdd as the storage drive sense windows wont be using the resources the drive has to offer. it wont be as huge as if you ran them off the ssd but not half bad either. its actually not a bad setup and thats why a lot of people will go with a 128gb/256gb ssd as the os drive and use an hdd as the storage drive.
> 
> i am assuming this is the first ssd you've bought so my recommendation is to give it a try. i know that going from an hdd like the one you are currently running to an ssd will be almost night and day difference, even with it hooked up to a sata2 port.
> 
> beings that i dont know your budget but if you can afford to upgrade your system it might not be a bad idea now that you are going to be redoing the os. a new system today should last you for the next 5 years. you would only need the proc, ram, and mobo. a little trick to upgrading is try to upgrade at the end of your 4th year of having it. you can get a decent price for your hardware and put it towards a new system. plus most componets like your psu, case, fans and sometimes ram and hdd/ssd can be resused too.




have been wanting to upgrade for  while now but have taken a back seat due to family commitments.

going to try an ssd first then the mobo in a couple on months or so.

probably by xmas this year will have a new build!!!


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## Final_Fighter (May 31, 2018)

that ssd will make your pc act so much smoother you might feel like you have a new pc. 

good luck.


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## bug (Jun 1, 2018)

Post back and let us know how your system feels after the upgrade. Then go back to enjoying it


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## Ruyki (Jun 1, 2018)

Replacing the mainboard just to go from SATA 2 to SATA 3 is probably not worth it.
I mean, if you can get a SATA3 mainboard for free or nearly free than it's an option, but if it's going to cost more than a little money than I would advise against it.

I've been running a SATA 2 system with an SSD for years and the speed is fine.
SATA 3 is only a bit faster in real world tasks.


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## BraveSoul (Jun 1, 2018)

stuartb04 said:


> going to try an ssd first then the mobo in a couple on months or so.
> probably by xmas this year will have a new build!!!


you have an amazing CPU, if gaming is the heaviest task on your platform than for xmas I would think about a beefy video card upgrade 
& another 8gb of ram........THATS IT......
what frequency is your 2500k running at?



Final_Fighter said:


> that ssd will make your pc act so much smoother you might feel like you have a new pc


/\ /\ /\ /\    what he said


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## Static~Charge (Jun 1, 2018)

If you plan to clone your current Windows setup to the SSD, be sure to do a disk clean-up first (no point in copying rubbish files to the new drive). Also, make sure that your cloning software is up-to-date so it understands the partition alignment requirement for optimal performance with an SSD.


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## bug (Jun 1, 2018)

Ruyki said:


> Replacing the mainboard just to go from SATA 2 to SATA 3 is probably not worth it.
> I mean, if you can get a SATA3 mainboard for free or nearly free than it's an option, but if it's going to cost more than a little money than I would advise against it.
> 
> I've been running a SATA 2 system with an SSD for years and the speed is fine.
> SATA 3 is only a bit faster in real world tasks.


Goes back to my previous post that SATAII only bottlenecks sequential speeds and those aren't that relevant for _typical_ home usage.


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## stuartb04 (Jun 2, 2018)

hey guys

think something is wrong with my pc.

everything installed fine .

installed no problems, had my previous 1tb hd set as secondary
i stupidly tried attaching my other 600gb hd to access my other files.

this is were things went wrong.  the pc would turn on but the monitor and keyboard wont work. 

i could access the bios by taking out the battery for a bit.

but i just cant boot from the ssd now.even though it shows in the bios.

also when i try to save and restart from the bios it will completely shutoff and wont boot.

the ssd is disconnected at the moment.

sorry if i sound confusing....but i am confused

... Just restarted the pc. It completely turnt off.
Now it just turns on and off now.
Keyboard isnt lit up and monitor isnt working.

The only way i can get it working is taking out the battery.


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## BraveSoul (Jun 2, 2018)

600gb had windows in it? conflict? try to boot with just SSD attached?  im no expert  but bios usually has some options/choices/prioroties for drives maybe some1 can chip in here


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## Deeveo (Jun 2, 2018)

stuartb04 said:


> hey guys
> 
> think something is wrong with my pc.
> 
> ...



Did you have other drives connected when installing Windows? If you switched to AHCI mode before installing to SSD it won't boot from the old drive in AHCI mode, also it only boots from SSD in AHCI mode (this is a Windows driver thing). If you have other drives connected when installing Windows (especially if there are installed os:es there) it might install some boot items on those other drives and wont boot without them. Also make sure you have the SSD connected to the first SATA port on the motherboard, this is marked as either SATA 0 or SATA 1 dependending on the manufacturer (this can have an effect on the drive ID if drives are added/removed).

Edit. Did you completely reset bios and did you make sure you have latest bios version installed?


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## stuartb04 (Jun 2, 2018)

1tb has Windows 10. The 600gb is just for storage.

The 1tb hd was connected at the time when ssd was installing windows 10.

I did enable ahci in the bios for the ssd before installation.

I was able to boot the ssd after installation of windows and play around before i decided to reconnect the other 600gb hd.

I havent got the ssd set to sata 1. Think its Port 4 i believe. 

I did reset bios to defaults. 
How do you update the bios?


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## Deeveo (Jun 2, 2018)

stuartb04 said:


> 1tb has Windows 10. The 600gb is just for storage.
> 
> The 1tb hd was connected at the time when ssd was installing windows 10.
> 
> ...



Try moving the SSD to the first SATA port on the motherboard. Does it still boot without the 600GB drive attached?


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## stuartb04 (Jun 2, 2018)

Im thinking its a boot up problem.
Automatic repair didnt work.

The only screen i get when i take battery and power lead out for a minute is a screen asking to press f1 for setup or f2 to continue.

Windows tries to repair but the auto repair fails.

Im currently doing trying this guide
http://www.thewindowsclub.com/automatic-repair-couldnt-repair-pc

I have only got the ssd connected now to sata 1

Edit. Whenever i restart the pc it completely shuts off then turns back on.. This makes the keyboard and monitor not work at all.

Edit 2.just took out the battery and power for a bit. Rebooted with windows on usb stick. Managed to format ssd and now reinstalling 10 again.... Lets see

Edit 3.nope that didnt work. Installed fine soon as it went to restart it turnt itself off came back on then off again.
Now its on but monitor and keyboard dont work
Dammit

Edit 4- finally logged back in to my previous setup-1tb and 600gb-

screen went black for a few minutes once windows loaded up though.

all seems fine as i speak.temps are fine.as was really.

its just that restart thats the problem now.


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## bug (Jun 3, 2018)

Boot with no storage drive attached. If that goes as far as expected boot with one driver attached and then with the other. If all these setups work, then you've probably misconfigured something in BIOS. Also, is the SSD formatted/ready to boot? Did you maybe put your old drive in AHCI mode and it doesn't support it?
Whatever it is, it's fixable.


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## stuartb04 (Jun 3, 2018)

bug said:


> Boot with no storage drive attached. If that goes as far as expected boot with one driver attached and then with the other. If all these setups work, then you've probably misconfigured something in BIOS. Also, is the SSD formatted/ready to boot? Did you maybe put your old drive in AHCI mode and it doesn't support it?
> Whatever it is, it's fixable.



tried all what you suggested. still no good

starting to think it could be the psu dying.

havent got another one to test either at the moment.

Pc is working fine now and it doesnt shut itself off randomly.

its just the initial boot up.


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## Xzibit (Jun 3, 2018)

You said you reset the bios.

Make sure the Motherboard bios is pointed to the main boot drive first.

Motherboard bios is AHCI & SSD is first boot drive.

If your old HDD install was in IDE and its loading first that might be causing it.


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## bug (Jun 3, 2018)

stuartb04 said:


> tried all what you suggested. still no good


What do you mean "no good"? At which step did it fail?


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## stuartb04 (Jun 3, 2018)

bug said:


> What do you mean "no good"? At which step did it fail?



sorry.what i meant it didnt solve the boot up problem.

i keep having to take the cmos battery out for it to boot properly.



Xzibit said:


> You said you reset the bios.
> 
> Make sure the Motherboard bios is pointed to the main boot drive first.
> 
> ...



I haven't got the ssd connected at the moment. 

Just my hds. But still getting the boot up problem.


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## Xzibit (Jun 3, 2018)

stuartb04 said:


> sorry.what i meant it didnt solve the boot up problem.
> 
> i keep having to take the cmos battery out for it to boot properly.
> 
> ...



K. Did you switch the Motherboard settings back to IDE for controller in the bios

BIOS>Advance>SATA Configuration>SATA Mode = (Disabled / IDE Mode / AHCI Mode)

if you can only boot when the CMOS battery is out. Its probably a setting in the BIOS your overlooking.


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## stuartb04 (Jun 3, 2018)

Xzibit said:


> K. Did you switch the Motherboard settings back to IDE for controller in the bios
> 
> BIOS>Advance>SATA Configuration>SATA Mode = (Disabled / IDE Mode / AHCI Mode)
> 
> if you can only boot when the CMOS battery is out. Its probably a setting in the BIOS your overlooking.



Yes it is set to ide in the config. 

Do you think i am wrong in thinking its the psu?


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## Xzibit (Jun 4, 2018)

stuartb04 said:


> Yes it is set to ide in the config.
> 
> Do you think i am wrong in thinking its the psu?



Don't think its the PSU if its only giving you issues when you have the CMOS batter installed. You mentioned it was fine when you first installed windows and were okay until you hooked up the 600GB drive.

Did you set the Boot

BIOS>Boot>Boot Option Priorities
1st Boot = (1tb if your in IDE Mode / SSD if your in AHCI Mode)

BIOS>Boot>Hard Disk Drive BBS Priorities
(1tb if your in IDE Mode first / SSD if your in AHCI Mode first)

If it still giving you problem with the CMOS battery i would reset the BIOS to default (F6) and then *check the settings again* and save.


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## stuartb04 (Jun 4, 2018)

Xzibit said:


> Don't think its the PSU if its only giving you issues when you have the CMOS batter installed. You mentioned it was fine when you first installed windows and were okay until you hooked up the 600GB drive.
> 
> Did you set the Boot
> 
> ...



Yes these are set as you state

Have also done the default and saved


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## Xzibit (Jun 4, 2018)

stuartb04 said:


> Yes these are set as you state
> 
> Have also done the default and saved



Maybe a long shot but try just using one stick of memory in the DIMM 1 slot


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## stuartb04 (Jun 4, 2018)

Xzibit said:


> Maybe a long shot but try just using one stick of memory in the DIMM 1 slot


Was literally going to say i have done that aswell. 

I have reseated every component. 

Maybe a new cmos battery would help?


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## Xzibit (Jun 4, 2018)

stuartb04 said:


> Was literally going to say i have done that aswell.
> 
> I have reseated every component.
> 
> Maybe a new cmos battery would help?



If its more then 8yrs old maybe. 

Did you switch between the sticks (just using one), and it still rebooting on you ?


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## stuartb04 (Jun 4, 2018)

Xzibit said:


> If its more then 8yrs old maybe.
> 
> Did you switch between the sticks (just using one), and it still rebooting on you ?



Yes tried both sticks. 
Still had to take the battery out for it to boot up


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## Xzibit (Jun 4, 2018)

stuartb04 said:


> Yes tried both sticks.
> Still had to take the battery out for it to boot up



Change it.  CR 2032 if i recall right.


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## stuartb04 (Jun 4, 2018)

Xzibit said:


> Change it.  CR 2032 if i recall right.


Yes it is

Havent got one now
Will have to be tomorrow now

Will report back

Thanks

Edit. Just to reiterate that I have to take battery out and the power lead for a minute for it to boot up properly


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## stuartb04 (Jun 4, 2018)

well can confirm its not the battery.

spoke to an I.T chap today in work and he did say it could be the motherboard if not the cmos battery.


would it best to take it to get looked at for a definate conclusion?


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## Xzibit (Jun 5, 2018)

Depending on price.

Have you tried just connecting the PWRswitch only from the case no other connectors, (can always hope its a short from the case). Using the Resetswitch as the PWRSwitch to check the PWRswitch.

If you have spare PSU or can get a loan from a friend to switch out see if that helps.  At the very least it eliminates those parts as being the culprits and narrows it down.


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## bug (Jun 5, 2018)

It's times like these that make you appreciate a diagnosis display on the motherboard...
Unfortunately, I'm out of ideas. I've tried looking at the motherboard's manual, only to be reminded why I don't buy MSI anymore


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## Vayra86 (Jun 5, 2018)

stuartb04 said:


> hey guys
> 
> think something is wrong with my pc.
> 
> ...



Check your BIOS and see if AHCI mode is enabled. It is required for an SSD and not for HDD. Also check the boot order while you're at it. It should point to the SSD as #1.

EDIT: Nevermind, missed Xzibit's post.


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## stuartb04 (Jun 5, 2018)

Hey guys
Going to take it to a repair shop down the road from me.
Charge £30 to diagnose the problem.
1-2 days turnaround. 

Will report back once done

Thanks


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## stuartb04 (Jun 8, 2018)

hey guys

it was the motherboard that was faulty in the end.
the shop recommended a bundle for me.
as follows-
i7 940
asus p6t deluxe
8gb ram(16gb total now)
all for 100£ fitted

all is well now.

what are your thoughts.

cpu could be better methinks.


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## Xzibit (Jun 8, 2018)

stuartb04 said:


> hey guys
> 
> it was the motherboard that was faulty in the end.
> the shop recommended a bundle for me.
> ...



Glad you got it sorted.

I still have a i7 950 running in one of my systems and it does fine. Not sure on the prices but for a modern system you wouldn't even be able to buy the memory DDR4 for that.


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## bug (Jun 8, 2018)

stuartb04 said:


> hey guys
> 
> it was the motherboard that was faulty in the end.
> the shop recommended a bundle for me.
> ...


Your second post said "Minimal costs preferable" and you ended up paying £100 on top of your SSD 
You did get a better system though, I hope you enjoy it.


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## stuartb04 (Jun 9, 2018)

bug said:


> Your second post said "Minimal costs preferable" and you ended up paying £100 on top of your SSD
> You did get a better system though, I hope you enjoy it.


I know 
Just wanted it fixed. 

Thinking new case and monitor next.


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## Vayra86 (Jun 9, 2018)

stuartb04 said:


> I know
> Just wanted it fixed.
> 
> Thinking new case and monitor next.



If you want some advice: hold off on the case unless your current one is literally falling apart. There is a good chance your current rig will be 'old' as well and you'd prefer replacing it. Would be a shame to sit there with a massively oversized or undersized case at that point. These days you can build great systems in any form factor, such as ITX/SFF.

Or, pick up a cheap case somewhere, second hand. No point in getting USB 3.0 and all that new stuff that's not supported anyway.


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## stuartb04 (Jun 9, 2018)

Heys guys.

Pc was working fine before a restart.
Getting this error now.

https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000023015/mini-pcs.html

Any ideas?

Edit-ignore that guys. 
Changed boot order to hd 1st which still has win 10 on it. 
Then on the choose operating system screen choose windows 10 on volume 1.

Still this cant be right having the hd and not the ssd at 1st boot priority?


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## bug (Jun 9, 2018)

Error is self-explaining: you've enable booting from the network somewhere (or the BIOS came configured that way). Disable that, as you probably don't need it anyway. Then make sure SSD comes before the HDD in the boot order (it doesn't matter if you have a DVD drive or USB before them).


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