# Naturally Aspired PC WaterCooling Club



## EastCoasthandle (Feb 8, 2008)

(thanks to Dr. Spankenstein)​



Ok, here's a club for those that water cool their PC.  Below you will find a small list of items that will get your started.  All are welcomed to join.  Do you have the guts?  

*Hardware*

Here is a realistic and honest water cooling setup:

Thermalright LGA775 RM Retention Bracket or a LGA 1156 Retention Bracket.   This is one of the most important pieces of hardware one needs when assembling the CPU waterblock to the MB.  Not only will should you prevent warping your MB but should allow for good contact with the IHS of your CPU.  You will need to get a good torque on the nut/screw of your waterblock's tie-down assembly.  Don't over do it, just enough to allow you to tighten the WB on the CPU.  Look at this review and go to the next page of that review to see what kind of difference a good back plate can make. 







LGA 775 and LGA 1155/1156



There is also a FuZion Intel 775 Pro-Mount Set as well if you use.  I haven't tried it myself as I use the components that come with the FuZion.  







7/16" ID, 11/16" OD. Offers the good water flow, best bending radius for it's size and smaller foot print then others designated for 1/2" barbs .  This is 1" smaller then 1/2" ID 5/8" OD tubing. This allows for the best bend radius and can reduce the hindrance of airflow in the case (with larger OD tubing). You can go smaller if you like. Just make sure you buy the barbs that the same size of the ID (Inner Diameter) of the tubing. Tubing 7/6" ID will fit 1/2" barbing because Tygon tubing is a bit more gummy then other tubing. As a rule of thumb always get more then you need.  I usually get 10' to be safe but that's for my PC, yours may vary. 

10 Hose Clams, size G.  You can go smaller if you like. Just make sure you buy the barbs that the same size of the ID (Inner Diameter) of the tubing. Tubing 7/6" ID will fit 1/2" barbing because Tygon tubing is a bit more gummy then other tubing.
2 for the CPU WB
2 for the GPU WB
2 for the Radiator
2 for the Reservoir
2 for the pump
add 1 for a fill port
add 3 for a T-Line


Watercool HEATKILLER










Aqua Compuer Cuplex Kryos XT











Koolance CPU-360.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	










Apogee-XT.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	










D-Tek FuZion  CPU Water Block.  Please take note that the barbs are closer together then on most water blocks. Best way to install the tubing is to install the 1st tube into the barb then use a hose clamp to tighten it down. Then install the 2nd tube into the 2nd barb and use a hose clamp to tighten it down. That way you have enough room to fit both tubes when using 7/6" ID 11/16" OD. You will also need a retention bracket for the back of the MB. You never want to use the MB to tighten down the bolts for the CPU water block. UPDATE: D-Tek is now selling the modified version of the Fuzion called the Fuzion 2.  








The EK Supreme is a good alternate from the D-Tek Fuzion however, it's a bit more restrictive then the FuZion.  Although the EK Supreme cools better the results seen so far are minuscule for the amount of restriction.  If you buy this I also suggest a strong pump if you water cool more then just a cpu (IMO). A review of the EK Supreme vs Fuzion and a few other blocks can be found here








Maze5 GPU.  Best GPU Water on the market from what I know.  I offer this over competitors as it's reliable and works well with either bare gpu die or gpu die that has a IHS. 







You could get the FuZion-GFX VGA Water block but I read it's a bit restrictive. In any case you will need to buy short ramsinks for your memory and ICs and pwm for a G80 or these.  You may need to do further research to find the correct ramsink for your video card.  
Maze5
D-tek FuZion GFX 2
etc








PA 120.2 Radiator. One of the best radiator out there that allows for good cooling with low CFM fans.  If you use radiators from other manufactures you may need a more powerful fan (one that has a higher CFM rating).  








Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Reservoir.  This res is mountable almost any were on your case.  If for some reason you cannot use the 5 1/4 bay drive res this is the best alternative.  Side note: always keep your Res at a higher elevation then your pump.







Swiftech MCP655-B 12v DC Pump w/Tach Sensor variable speed pump.  More reliable then others I've seen.  Also note that you want your reservoir positioned higher then your pump


Yate Loon Medium Speed Fan: D12SM-12
OR
Scythe SFF21E 
are good fans to consider.  Below are some specs of a few 120x25mm fans
D12SM-12:  1,650rpm, 33dBA, 70.5CFM, 0.30A
The SFF21E:  1,200rpm, 20.1dBA, 49.0CFM, 0.15A 
The SFF21F:  1,600rpm, 28.0dBA, 63.7CFM, 0.20A 
Y1225SL12H: 1,600 rpm, 33.00 dBA, 88.11CFM, 0.41 A 


In all, you will spend over $340 for this.  But you have 2 options.  Buy it all now (looking elsewhere if you like) or buy something cheaper and realizing later on that you have to spend a bit more money to get the best cooling without the noise (as some of us already done). The WBs, res and rad should all come with barbs.  If not make sure you get 1/2" ID barbs.






*All in One Kits*
At one time it all in one kits were never given consideration as they didn't cool any better then higher then a HSF.  However, that's changing now a days and it's worth mentioning that it should be considered if you only want to cool the CPU (until GPU/CPU AIO solutions become available).  One such example is the Corsair H70 series.  Granted, it won't do as well as a custom water cooling solution.  And, it might not always edge out the top HSF contenders.  It is an alternative to HSF should you consider the option.












*Alternate Hardware*

Custom "iandh" ATI 4870 Memory & VRM HS
Sidewinder and Petra's Tech Shop have them in stock.  If you decide to buy this make sure you have some sort of active cooling though.  

12v DC Power Supply with Single Molex Connector which can be used to connect your 4-pin molex pump to without having to worry about stressing your PSU if you are not sure it's up to the task. One note though, this unit does not start with the PC.  








There is another unit which can start when the PC is turned out without using the PSU as a power source called the Pump Relay Switch Kit v3 .  As you can see this unit requires a bit more installation and is not as straight forward as the prior solution. 


DangerDen's G1/4 fatboy barbs can decrease pressure drop over standard barbs (so far).  They are little pricey but from the results so far (compared to EK's barbs) they do the job well IMO.  If you have the money to spare I would suggest converting all your barbs over to Fatboys.  In a common watercooling setup you would need:
-2 for the CPU WB
-2 for the GPU WB
-2 for the Radiator.  G3/8 barbs for Thermochill PA series rads.  You can get them here
-2 for the Reservoir
OR
-3 for a T-line








D5 Pump.  I believe that the D5 and the Swiftech MCP655 pump are one and the same. Side note: placing this near your PC Case inlet fan can add to the longevity of the pump IMO.







PA120.3 Radiator.  I will not kid you, this is the most expensive radiator but for good reason. Consider this an investment, not a purchase. I've been through 2 different kinds of radiators and none of them compete with the efficiency of cooling your video/cpu using low power fans then this radiator. If you buy a cheaper rad be prepared to buy a higher cfm fan to get similar cooling performance (thus more noise). You might get away with a ThermoChill PA120.2 (which is a 2 fan radiator) but I make no guarantees. Only choice that rad if you simply don't have the room for a PA120.3 rad. Please bare in mind that you are adding 2-3 more fans to your PC setup. The added noise of those fans are inevitable. If you have a problem with "noise" or believe that you will reduce "noise" with water cooling it's better to keep what you have. 






OR

Swiftech MCR320-QP is a great alternate choice if you want something a little cheaper.  This radiator is also designed to use low to medium CFM fans however offer a slightly higher pressure drop then Thermochill's offerings.  






OR

Feser Xchanger 360
Features
- Water Channels and Fins made out of Cu Copper Material
- Brass Water Chambers
- Black Finish (5µm)
- G1/4" Threads
- Mounting Screws for Case (4/8/12)
- Mounting Screws for Fan (4/8/12)
- Silicon Pads (1/2/3)
- Bleed Valve Screw
- Stamped TFC – Xchanger Logo
- ColorBox Packaging
- Warranty Card
- Serial Number with Holographic Sticker
- Sealed in VCI Bag - 5 Years Corrosion Protection
- 3 Years Warranty
- Compatible with all available Watercooling Systems








RADBOX or EK-Uni Rad Holder 120.  Consider this if you want to mount your rad on the rear of your case. It can support the PA120.3 rad. 











 PCI Power Bracket.  This is a fan management PCI bracket that allows you to connect either 2 molex, 2, 3 pin fans or a combination of 2 moles and 2 3-pin fans.  This bracket goes with with those who mount their radiators on the outside rear of their case.  







Scythe SFF21F 63 CFM S-FLEX .  This is a very good fan however it's a bit more expensive then the Yate Loons but offer higher CFM with lower noise.  

Bay Style Reservoirs.  This type of reservoir comes in handy when you are not interested in moding a res in your case.  All you do it insert this into one of your 5 1/4" drive bay and your pretty much done.  Again, you want the reservoir positioned higher then your pump.



3/4" Hole Saw.  This allows you to create holes in your PC case so you can route tubing in and out of your case.  It's a minor modification to your case and shouldn't take way from it's appearance if performed correctly.  You will need a powerful drill to use this device.  This "should" come with a drill bit.  This sort of modification creates bits and chips of metal.  It's best to remove your MB when performing this task.  Then place cloth on the outside and inside of your work area to catch as much material as possible without having to do a whole lot of clean up afterward.








Rubber Grommet.   This is used to cover the sharp edge of the hole created by the hole saw.  








*Other Water Cooling Kits can be had at:*
Aqua Computers
&
Koolance

But IMO you may pay within the ballpark of what I suggested.






*Personal Note*
The example I posted above is what I consider "typical" of why some may buy when water cooling their PC.  It is still up to you to research your options and found out what works best for you (be it different rad/res, smaller tubing, barbs, etc).  Water cooling your PC *is NOT for everyone* and you need to take that into consideration before you start investing the money in water cooling.  

This is personal preference/hobby more then anything else. Right now it's winter time and a small crack in the window or turn off the heater can allow you for good OC'ing with HSF combo. It's the summer time you have to prepare for. It's not the OC potential but the stability while OC'd that is important. Again, depending or environmental setup (ambient temps, dust, etc) this is more hobby then necessity. In the end, you will have to figure out were to mount your rad, place your pump/res and line your tubing. Remember, because you are adding more fans it won't get quieter then before. Also, with 45nm Intel CPUs coming out water cooling is not as important as in days past. But for any quad core 45nm CPU I still recommend it over air for good OC'ing results.

As for high end video cards I found that water cooling is more a necessity then luxury.   Even though the die size of GPUs are decreasing (with rumors of next gen video cards having 45nm GPUs) heat is still prevalent enough to warrant it's use.  The best water block one can use are those that cover the GPU only.  If for some reason you decided on another video card you should be able to use the same water block with a different installation kit.  If you buy a full cover water block you are stuck with that make/model of video cards.  One thing that most people forget is that the PMW/Mosfets of all video cards need active cooling.  I have found no water block that actively cools the PWM/mosfets of a video card other then the GPU (including full size water blocks).  It has been my experience that a fan is essential in cooling the PWM/mosfets of a video card and can aid in increase performance in most games.  

It's hard for me to gauge what temps you would get but for me using a E6870 at 3.6 I am around 40C during games (also cooling my video card). Not sure if you will get that with air.  As with any PC modding you do this at your own risk.



*TIPS*
When bleeding the water cooling line, it best to do so without the PC being turned on.  You can do this by shorting 2 wires on your 24 pin connector.  It's the 4th green wire and 5th/6th black wire (I use the 6th black wire).  You do this with a simple paper clip illustrated below:








The above is 20 pin connector however, you should be able to do this on a 24 pin connector. 








This will allow you to use the rear PSU toggle switch as an on/off switch for your pump without having to turn on the entire PC.  You may have to turn the pump on and off a few times to completely bleed the line as it may sometimes stall (IE water no longer moves inside the tubing).



It's a good idea to flush any new radiator with hot distilled water to remove any flux (or other materials) that maybe left in the radiator.  I recommend that you do not use VINEGAR.  It has a tendency to dissolve some of the materials in your rad.  A tall tale sign is that the vinegar will turn a light blue color after prolong use.   

From what I read it's better to stick to all copper if possible.  Aluminum and Copper is a bad combination.  Some advise to use anti-freeze when using copper and aluminum however, it's better to stay as far away from that combination as possible.

Try to stick to 1 size for the tubing and barb.  

Use 90 degree fittings when the angle causes the tubing to deform. 





Use T-line when you are sure that a reservoir is not an option.  T-line loops take longer to bleed and require a lot of attention.  It may take hour(s) to completely bleed a T-line which may require you to add more fluid at the "T" during that time.








You will also need to a fill port if you are going to use a T-line.  It's better to find a place on top of your PC Case and hole saw a permanent spot for your fill port.







Chipset and mosfet water blocks are not always require (and sometimes hard to find for your motherboard).  IMO, it may be better to use a 40mm fan on your north/south bridge chipset.

Distilled water offers the best coolings cooling solution.  However, you want to prevent algae growth.  You can use either a drop of PT Nuke or 91% alcohol.

Radiators should remain vertical when installed for optimal cooling (unless noted otherwise by the manufacture).  Radiators cool more effectively when air is circulated from outside the case.

After 3-4 days remove the cap from your reservoir to make sure there is no air pressure build up.  I had this happen to me and one tall tale sign was the tubing was a lot warmer (nearly hot) then normal.  The cap popped open when unscrewing it.  No problems occurred as a result however, I am still looking into why that happened.

Even though a reservoir reduces the amount of bleed time (considerably) it's always a good idea to shake the radiator a few times to remove any air pockets and make sure that your loop is using the full extent of your radiator.  

When connecting your water blocks, reservoir and radiator it's always a good idea to leave a small amount of slack to your loop.  If you buy a new video card, water block or case you may in fact still be able to re-use your loop.  However, this only applies when you know you are upgrading after you water cool your PC.

When applying thermal compound I found that I got the lowest temps if I used the line method for a dual core CPU. The line should follow the same path as the die under the IHS.  C2D cpus have curved notches at each end of he CPU that guides it into the socket.  The line method should also follow that same path.  Which will be from the top of the writing on the IHS to the bottom.

When bleeding your loop it's best to place a few hand towels, tee-shirts, paper towels, etc inside your PC Case and let bleed for at least 30 minutes before you turn your PC on (regardless if you have a T-line or reservoir).  This should prevent any damage to your PC if a leak is found and the hand towels, tee-shirts, etc should absorb any droplets found.  However, if there is a leak always use a hair dryer around the area the leak was found and do a complete overlap of your motherboard, video card and ram area.  


Spreading it Thin TIM Roundup 2007
apply thermal compound
IMO there are 3 non AS5 thermal compounds that appear to provide the lowest temps:
MX-2
TX-2
IC Diamond 7 Carat Thermal Compound

The best methods for applying thermal compound on your IHS is either the dollop method (pea size not grain size) and line method (for dual/quad core).  When installing the heat sink it's best to place it on top of the thermal compound (which is on top of the IHS) and give it a full 180 degree twist in both left and right direction.  Then proceed to mount the heatsink.  
For an exposed die the spread method and dollop method (grain size) should work.  

- Make sure you bleed the setup before you start your PC.  Look at the water cooling thread already mentioned on how.  It only requires a paper clip and the 20/24 pin PSU connector shorting the green and black wires in order to do it correctly.  That will allow you to start the PSU using it's power switch instead of the PC Case on/off button

-  When bleeding make sure you shake the rad (in which means shaking the entire PC Case) in order to remove any air pockets. If you use a res and I believe you are this won't take long. 

-  After you bleed your loop wait about 5 days then remove the screw to remove any back pressure that has build up.  If the sound of the pressure is loud enough to remind you of opening a soda bottle then repeat the process again 5 days later to make sure there is no more back pressure in your loop.

-  Make sure you tighten down the tubing on those barbs with a metal worm or plastic hose clamp (make sure you get the correct size).  Some have used zip ties but I can't honestly recommend them.  The reason is that if you ever have to have to remove the tubing from the barb after several weeks/months of use the tubing has a tendency to reshape itself into the size of the barb.  This makes the tubing diameter larger thus loosing it's tight fitting around the barb.  This is where having a metal worm or those plastic hose clamps come into play.  They ensure that tubing doesn't leak even when it deforms to the shape of the barb.  

- I suggest at least a 650W single rail PSU.  Two that come to mind are Corsair or PC Power and Cooling.

-  IMO, get fans that offer no less then 49-50 CFM.  I have found that even though my PA 120.3 works well with low CFM fans I obtain better results with a higher CFM.  I have noticed this most during the hot summer months.

-  Which tubing you pick does matter.  Some will bend well while others will not.  Nothing will every frustrate you more then putting your loop together and realizing at the completion of your loop that you have a serious kink restricting water and creating bubbles .  Therefore, if you go with 1/2" barb then using tubing that is 7/6" ID 11/16" OD for example.  

-  IMHO, only use distilled water with a few drops of PT Nuke should keep the algae growth, etc in check. 
-  Don't mix copper and aluminum in your water loop.





Disclaimer: You water cool at your own risk.  Also, the information presented in this post is not a personal recommendation.


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## DaMulta (Feb 9, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> Any water cooling users out there?



O I water cool. I'll post all my stuff that I'm using tomorrow. I bet this thread could help a lot of people.


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## mrw1986 (Feb 9, 2008)

Nice guide and nice setup of this club! Once I start WC'ing I will certainly join!


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## Deleted member 24505 (Feb 9, 2008)

Nice little write up there mate.

I will be going water soon.I already have a apogee gt cpu block,i was planning on the ek full cover block for my 3850 and a thermo  120.2 radiator and a ddc ultra pump.I was considering 1/2" tubing,but i mite consider going smaller on that front.


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## intel igent (Feb 9, 2008)

im in! 

i think i was the first watercooler on these here forums 

was already L/C when i joined, been L/C since late '04 early '05 

ive been running basically the same loop the whole time. i just added a second rad + pump.

my loop consists of:

1) swiftech stormG4 (original)

2) maze5

3) swiftech mcr-220

4) modded chevette H/C

5) 2 ported top mcp-650's in series

6) 2 panaflo ultras and 1 panaflo medium all in pull config

7) 1/2" primoflex UV blue and T-line

8) distilled/glycol mixed 90/10

all INSIDE an antec plusview! i just finished modding it, again 

im just waiting on a few small things to get her buttoned back up.

i have my chevette H/C in the front @ the bottom and the mcr-220 is on the top stuck to some lexan 

loop order goes t-line > pump1 > pump2 > cpu > mcr-220 > maze4 > H/C > t-line

i have a drain plug inbetween the 2 pumps. i needed to use elbows so i purchased some nice brass 3/4" id ones along with the 3/4" id T. i found them @ canadian tire for like $1.50 ea 

any q's just ask


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## intel igent (Feb 10, 2008)

every1 afraid to get wet?


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## DOM (Feb 10, 2008)

D-TEK FuZion CPU Waterblock - 1/2" with D-Tek FuZion Accelerator Nozzle Kit 

D-Tek FuZion GFX GPU Waterblock

2X Swiftech MCW30 Chipset Water-block 

Danger Den Bay Reservoir High-Density Polyethylene

PrimoChill Radiator Xtreme Series 360

Swiftech MCP655™ 12 VDC Pump

Tygon 3603 Tubing 1/2" ID 3/4" OD

6X Thermaltake Thunderblade 120mm Blue LED Case Fans - Sleeved

Swiftech MCB-120™ Rev. 2 Radbox


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## intel igent (Feb 10, 2008)

what nozzle/s are you using with the fuzion?

how restrictive do you find ur loop using both fuzion blocks?


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## DOM (Feb 10, 2008)

intel igent said:


> what nozzle/s are you using with the fuzion?
> 
> how restrictive do you find ur loop using both fuzion blocks?


well I forgot which one I have in  but I think im going to change it after seeing this but its not to bad keeps load on my cpu under 65 at 75F room temp at 1.568v and card under 50 at 1.6v

D-Tek Fuzion Nozzle Kit Pressure Drop Test Results


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## intel igent (Feb 10, 2008)

martin & Co are really doing some excellent work over there.

would be nice to see the same kind of interest here on our forums.


some of that stuff is beyond me but i like to read it and try to understand the same


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## DOM (Feb 10, 2008)

yeah theres alot of good stuff there but I think alot of ppl here dont have the money and time I would if I was to get payed  need the extra cash since we make to much to get the big bucks during tax returns  that even with next yr my baby girl is going to be on it the gov. is fucked up 

so which nozzle do you think I should use on by the chart


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## intel igent (Feb 10, 2008)

we will soon be at their level  the forum here is much newer and not as "exposed" as they are to that level of members. YET.

have you installed the washer to stop the internal leakage? 

id run the least restrictive (5.5?) nozzle seeing as youve got the fuzion GFX as well


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## erocker (Feb 11, 2008)

Thanks for the thread first of all, it's going to come in mighty handy when I decide to run God-forsaken coolant through my system.  As a mechanic I must say the most hated job for me is anything coolant related.  I'll get over it someday.  Thanks for the info though!


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## EastCoasthandle (Feb 11, 2008)

erocker said:


> Thanks for the thread first of all, it's going to come in mighty handy when I decide to run God-forsaken coolant through my system.  As a mechanic I must say the most hated job for me is anything coolant related.  I'll get over it someday.  Thanks for the info though!




thanks

Side note:
If some of you like a little color to your loop don't buy that stuff to color your liquid, just get the tubing that comes in the color you like.  Primoflex offers a few different colors found at:
Performance PC
xoxide





> Summary:
> 
> Overall, the best tubing for kink resistance is one which has the thickest walls in proportion to it's diameter with the highest durometer being a second consideration. Thus the *Tygon R-3603 7/16" ID with 11/16" OD* (1/8" wall thickness) *provides the best kink resistance of the tubing suitable for 1/2" barbs*. *For 3/8" tubing, the Primoflex 3/8" ID - 5/8" OD (1/8" wall) is by far the best choice for kink resistance on tight bends.*


Review of tubing here


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## Fitseries3 (Feb 11, 2008)

hey... count me in. i've done 12 builds from scratch now and 8 have been dual loop systems. 

my latest setup is...

silvertone TJ07
2 laing d5's
d-tek fusion
2 swiftech mcw-30's
TC PA120.3
TC PA120.2
3 danger den 8800gtx blocks
swiftech mcres-micro
clearflex 7/16'' tubing

dual loop setup... one for GPU's and one for CPU/NB/SB


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## Fitseries3 (Feb 11, 2008)

if someone could give me an idea i could get it done.


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## Fitseries3 (Feb 11, 2008)

i'll give it a try. im going to catch some sleep here for a bit.... then i'll see what i can do.


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## intel igent (Feb 11, 2008)

WOO-HOO!

were like a chia pet!

just add WATER


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## NONYA (Feb 12, 2008)

Im going to H20 for the first time I was looking at this kit on newegg...
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16835108100
or...
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16835128015
Im only interested in cooling the CPU right now,if you had $120 to spend could you beat these kits in cooling performance with a parts build?I want to order from NE since they owe me shipping charges from my last botched order but its not out of the question to order from another vendor as long as they are in the US.Thanx


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## Wile E (Feb 12, 2008)

I WC as well.

Right now I have a modest setup.

CPU: Swiftech Apogee GT
RAD: Black Ice Extreme 360 (the original version with fixed 1/2" barbs)
PUMP: Laing DDC-1
RES: Swiftech Microres

Tubing is 3/8" with 1/2" to 3/8" reducers at the rad.

I really need to upgrade a couple of things. Firstly, I think I might need a better cpu block. It seems heat transfer isn't happening quickly enough with this Apogee GT. My quad shoots up to with 3-5C of it's max load temp the instant it encounters 100% load. As such, I have a hard time getting it to run above 1.5V stably. I can push 1.6 for some light benching, but that's usually only good for a couple of minutes, like a 3dMark06 run.

I load to 56C on my hottest core in Prime95 @ 1.5V 3.6GHz.

My other thought is that perhaps I don't have enough flow in my loop. I actually have 3 DDC-1s sitting around here total, so I was thinking of using 2 in my loop (in series, of course)

It just seems to me I should be getting better temps than this. I've seem some air coolers doing this well.

I should also mention that I reseated my block numerous times.
What's your thoughts on this guys? Any tips?


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## oily_17 (Feb 12, 2008)

Count me in too -this is my first go at WC so went with a Swiftech H20 Apex Ultra Watercooling Kit -wanted to keep it simple for my first attempt.Also using a Alphacool Cape Coolplex Pro external reservoir with the RAD mounted outside the case as well.

Also have Tygon 3/8" tubing squeezed on to 1/2" barbs -was the only tubing I had at the time but works fine and definitely no leaks 

Also plan on WC my next rig which will be built around a Asus Maximus Extreme mobo,have to get some funds together first though.


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## Dangle (Feb 13, 2008)

Hey, I neeeeed to get into water cooling!  Plz Help!


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## joker71 (Feb 13, 2008)

*watercooling & Stability*

i have bought the zalman reserator XT and i can say its one of the best there is it cools my rig to the bone

cpu : normal 45C on the aircooler now on watercooling its 28C
videocard: normal 60C now on watercooling its 45C
chipset: normal 58C now on watercooling (mosfet,northbridge & southbridge) 30C

so i can tell u this is one of the best there is and i have all zalman coolers in my rig it took me about 3 hours to install the system but its worth it


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## Dr. Spankenstein (Feb 13, 2008)

Can I play too...

This was my old setup. Most components still in the new layout: PrimoFlex tubing, Liang D5, Black Ice Extreme 120.3. 






Danger Den MC-TDX and 975x Maze4...






My old 1950XT with a Danger Den Tyee full-coverage block.






My new layout. Suspended HDD in the 5.25" bays. They are cooled by a 120mm Noctua.






My first case mod. Boy was it ugly!






The Black Ice Extreme 120.3 straped with 3 120mm High CFM Panaflo and aluminum mesh filters. The risers are just glazed corner tiles from Loew's.






The goods. I've only got my one volt modded HD 3870 in right now, soon to be rockin' the dual 1GHz core Crossfire.






Just using distilled water and a couple drops of PT Nuke.


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## intel igent (Feb 13, 2008)

somebody call a Dr!

oh wait.............. 

whats suspending the HDD's?

nice rig 

heres mine finally

http://www.techpowerup.com/gallery/1341.html

its not up and running ATM just waiting a couple of things


----------



## Dr. Spankenstein (Feb 13, 2008)

Just left my vote.

I say it again: That is one TOUGH looking rig!


----------



## tiys (Feb 13, 2008)

does stock cooling count ?


----------



## Wile E (Feb 13, 2008)

Dr. Spankenstein said:


> Can I play too...
> 
> This was my old setup. Most components still in the new layout: PrimoFlex tubing, Liang D5, Black Ice Extreme 120.3.
> http://img.techpowerup.org/080213/OldSetup.jpg
> ...


How well does that MC-TDX perform? I'm thinking of switching cpu blocks.

And can anyone comment on my post #27?


----------



## intel igent (Feb 13, 2008)

Wile E said:


> How well does that MC-TDX perform? I'm thinking of switching cpu blocks.
> 
> And can anyone comment on my post #27?



have you tried to "bow" your block? 

are you using a backplate? 

id swap out the rad to an mcr-series. what fans are you using? 

do you have the modded tops for your pump?

i think that MC-TDX will perform 1c-3c better than your current block

do you have any pix of your setup?

anybody thats wanting help just ask, someone will be glad to assist


----------



## Wile E (Feb 13, 2008)

intel igent said:


> have you tried to "bow" your block?
> 
> are you using a backplate?
> 
> ...


Sorry, no pix. But the loop is very straightforward, with no kinks or excess tubing.

I can't believe I forgot to list the fans. lol. 3xSilverstone FM-122B's. PLenty of flow potential, but cranking the speed seems to have little effect.

No, my pump doesn't have a mod top, but that was one of the things I was considering. I was also considering running 2 in series without mod tops. With a single pump and a top, I could switch to 1/2" tubing, but with 2 pumps, I'll have to stick to 3/8" and the 1/2" to 3/8" reducers at the rad. Then there's also the consideration that a top will cost me a little money, whereas the 2 pump setup would be free, due to the spare 2 pumps I have.

And no, I'm not using a backplate, nor did I try to bow the block. Those are 2 very good suggestions actually. Didn't even consider them. My quad does seem a bit concave, judging by the way the tim spreads.

That leads me to my next question, how do you bow a block? lol. This is honestly the first chip I've ever had that seems a little concave.


----------



## intel igent (Feb 13, 2008)

those silverstone fans are not idael for rad application they have low static pressure which inhibits their performance

ill just post the link but youll have to do the digging  im off to do an EMG :shadedshu

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=70 <fan reviews, how to's, guides and more 

plz no haters, just collaborators


----------



## Wile E (Feb 13, 2008)

intel igent said:


> those silverstone fans are not idael for rad application they have low static pressure which inhibits their performance
> 
> ill just post the link but youll have to do the digging  im off to do an EMG :shadedshu
> 
> ...


Man, thanks again. That was a kick-ass link. I now know I'll be replacing the fans with YL D12SH-12's from Petras, and I'll just slap them on a cheapo controller.

What does everybody think of my pump situation, and how do you "bow" a block?


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Feb 13, 2008)

Wile E said:


> I WC as well.
> 
> Right now I have a modest setup.
> 
> ...



-If the situation has worsen then what you are normally seeing, I suggest that you disasemble the WB to see if the cooling surface is clogged and oriented correctly, look here. 
-Feel the tubing while the computer is one.  Is it room temperature or is it warmer then normal?  If it is warmer then normal you may have air pockets.   Shake the rad a few times to see if bubbles appear in the loop.  Also loosen the reservoir to see if there is air pressure there as well.
-I was never fond of the GT.  But it's better then the storm and TDX.



Side note: Don't bow the WB it isn't worth it.  And once it's bowed it stays that way.


----------



## oily_17 (Feb 13, 2008)

@Wile E - To bow the base on your Swiftech CPU block, they supply a thicker rubber O ring that you have to replace the original with.Can be quite fiddly to get the base and top back together without the thicker O ring slipping out on you -or at least that's what I found.
Only achieved about a 2c drop in temps with it bowed.

EDIT: I think I will go MC-TDX on my next build as well.


----------



## Wile E (Feb 13, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> My only suggestion is to try the Dtek FuZion.  Is your rad inside or outside your case?
> 
> Side note: Don't bow the WB it isn't worth it.  And once it's bowed it stays that way.


Rad is on the outside.

So you do think the block is the culprit?

And what of the pump setup? I know reducers are a bit restrictive, so I thought it might be a possible flow issue.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Feb 13, 2008)

Wile E said:


> Rad is on the outside.
> 
> So you do think the block is the culprit?
> 
> And what of the pump setup? I know reducers are a bit restrictive, so I thought it might be a possible flow issue.



-If the situation has worsen then what you are normally seeing, I suggest that you disassemble the WB to see if the cooling surface is clogged and oriented correctly, look here.
-Feel the tubing while the computer is on. Is it room temperature or is it warmer then normal? If it is warmer then normal you may have air pockets. Shake the rad a few times to see if bubbles appear in the loop. Also remove the reservoir's cap to see if there is air pressure there as well.
-I was never fond of the GT. But it's better then the storm and TDX.
-Ambient temps also play a role.  Is it warm/hot in the room?
-I would also consider remounting the WB to the C2Q CPU and use the line method when installing the thermal compound.

C2Q Line Method











C2D


----------



## Wile E (Feb 13, 2008)

Used the line method for my tim. I originally used a dot in the center, but later reseated using the line method, and the results were excellent. On the order of 7C under load.

My tubing is at room temp, and the room is about 18-19C.

Guess I'll have to do a tear-down, and check my block.

This also could be a matter of Quads just running way hotter than I'm used to seeing. Is 56C under prime95 load a good temp for 1.5V on a Q6600?

Sorry for all the Q's people. I appreciate the help.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Feb 13, 2008)

Wile E said:


> Used the line method for my tim. I originally used a dot in the center, but later reseated using the line method, and the results were excellent. On the order of 7C under load.
> 
> My tubing is at room temp, and the room is about 18-19C.
> 
> ...



Yes, thats fine IMO.


----------



## Judas (Feb 14, 2008)

I'm on water also...


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Feb 14, 2008)

NONYA said:


> Im going to H20 for the first time I was looking at this kit on newegg...
> http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16835108100
> or...
> http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=N82E16835128015
> Im only interested in cooling the CPU right now,if you had $120 to spend could you beat these kits in cooling performance with a parts build?I want to order from NE since they owe me shipping charges from my last botched order but its not out of the question to order from another vendor as long as they are in the US.Thanx


A good pump alone would account for nearly half the cost of the kit.  That's the point of wc kits, they are cost effective.  They may not offer the best cooling solution but at that price you get slightly better performance then a HSF on a hot summer day.


----------



## intel igent (Feb 14, 2008)

Judas said:


> I'm on water also...



welcome 

got any pix?


----------



## Judas (Feb 15, 2008)

sorry no pictures as of yet   

got my new EK-Supreme - Acetal  block today fairly impressive only been on for a few hrs and the temps seem much better  

http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews.php?/cases_cooling/ek_supreme_cpu_water_block/1

with my old  swiftech Apogee™ GT  with processor at 3.2 ghz    (idle temps)










And the new  EK-Supreme   with processor at 3.2 ghz    (idle temps)


----------



## intel igent (Feb 16, 2008)

trade a little flow for some restriction, and blammo!

7 deg less!

nice what are load temps?


----------



## AsRock (Feb 17, 2008)

I like to know if the Thermochill is actually worth near $100 over the Swiftech version

ThermoChill PA120.3 ($134.99)
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/thpa3xra.html

Swiftech MCR320-QP ($44.99)
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?Item=N82E16835108098

Any idea's on a good 2900XT block too ?


Thanks.


----------



## Dr. Spankenstein (Feb 17, 2008)

Kinda "apples to oranges", the ThermoChill is a dual-row, dual-pass rad and the Swify is a single-row, dual-pass rad.

So depending on your cooling needs, it may be a waste or a good investment.
Say you've got a P4 OC'd to 5GHz, a X1900XT block and a NB block in your loop: the Swifty is not going to cut the mustard. But if you are running a E8400 at a modest OC and have a video card with a smaller fab core, it would work.

Now looking at your specs: that Manchester and your 2900XT are producing major heat. I wouldn't skimp on the rad. There is a middle ground between the two you linked.

I'm quite partial to my Black Ice Extreme triple. Quite affordable and works well. (Not the most quiet rad, but then again I've got three 86.5 CFM Panaflos wailing away on mine!)


----------



## AsRock (Feb 17, 2008)

Dr. Spankenstein said:


> Kinda "apples to oranges", the ThermoChill is a dual-row, dual-pass rad and the Swify is a single-row, dual-pass rad.
> 
> So depending on your cooling needs, it may be a waste or a good investment.
> Say you've got a P4 OC'd to 5GHz, a X1900XT block and a NB block in your loop: the Swifty is not going to cut the mustard. But if you are running a E8400 at a modest OC and have a video card with a smaller fab core, it would work.
> ...



Thanks..  Nice to know and that it does a lot better than if needed. So a Thermochill would be a better investment to if i decide to add more to the loop..

Well the CPU is not that hot 42c max in a room temp of 95f in summer.


----------



## Dia01 (Feb 18, 2008)

I've been watercooling for over a year now.  I have over time decided to keep my loops as basic as possible as maintenance and mod's just become to painful with too much tubing and joins.  I was watercooling a 680i NB, SB, dual ram and SLI 8800GT's.  The CPU was cooled by a Coolit Freezone.  I had since had a water cooling incident which obliterated my 680i mobo and sacrificed a 8800GT.  I now only water cool the CPU and the SLI 8800GT's running on an Asus 780 Striker II.  I decided to remove the Freezone as condensation was forming around the chiller unit due to the excessive heat output of the mobo's mosfet heatsink and plus I could not fit an active fan to the heatsink with the Freezone in place.  I had no choice but to reduce power to the peltiers which made no sense to keep in the system as air cooling was doing a similar job.  I have stayed with Koolance products, there are better performing products are out there I know.  I like the range of fittings plus I don't like to mix and matck blocks and the performance isn't that bad.


----------



## Dr. Spankenstein (Feb 18, 2008)

AsRock said:


> Thanks..  Nice to know and that it does a lot better than if needed. So a Thermochill would be a better investment to if i decide to add more to the loop..
> 
> Well the CPU is not that hot 42c max in a room temp of 95f in summer.



42C at full load with the overclock you have in your System Specs?

What do you need water cooling for?!?


----------



## Fitseries3 (Feb 18, 2008)

thermochill = kick ass!!! i have every one of their rads and they are RAD!!!
i use my... PA160.1 for quads on my bench
               PA120.1 for duals on my bench
               PA120.2 is im my main rig cooling my cpu/NB/SB/VRM loop
               PA120.3 is used in my main rig for cooling GPU(s). (waiting for my EK3870x2 blocks)

ALSO... many people build great water cooling systems but very few people remember to plan ahead and THINK ABOUT HOW THEY WILL DRAIN THEIR LOOP!!! 
just a reminder.... because it's a PITA to drain a loop when you forgot to plan it out right.


----------



## CrAsHnBuRnXp (Feb 18, 2008)

Im going to ask a very stupid question (there are no stupid questions, just stupid people), so dont flame me. 

When water cooling, do you have to completely empty out all the liquid to accomodate new parts? (eg. do you have to empty out the water to install a newer CPU? Same for GPU)


----------



## Fitseries3 (Feb 18, 2008)

if your not changing or adding/removing blocks then no.


----------



## CrAsHnBuRnXp (Feb 18, 2008)

fitseries3 said:


> if your not changing or adding/removing blocks then no.



Nope. Just the card/chip itself. 

That was one thing holding me back.

If/when I go water, I want to get this case. Just wish it didnt come with all the w/c stuff. At least the option to opt out.


----------



## AsRock (Feb 18, 2008)

Dr. Spankenstein said:


> 42C at full load with the overclock you have in your System Specs?
> 
> What do you need water cooling for?!?



Ahh it's not for the CPU well not at this time at least it's for my 2900XT i am getting annoyed with due to a few things. Which would be solved if ATI's CC allowed to to manually adjust the fan settings.

For example 
If Riva Tuner is running it will crash the system if the GPU hits 90c\95c
Using just ATI's CCC the fan annoys me due to it starting up stopping starting and so on.
Ati Tool does the job well but has bugs that some times when a game is 
minimize then maximize the fan don't speed up likes it been told too there fore leading to overheating \ GPU crashes and ATI Tool Crashes which ends up taking the game down too.

Been thinking of waiting for the R700 to come out but i think this current system will slow the dam thing down lol.  But i cannot see that being any cooler not when all these people request companys it MUST be silent or i will not buy it.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Feb 18, 2008)

CrAsHnBuRnXp said:


> Im going to ask a very stupid question (there are no stupid questions, just stupid people), so dont flame me.
> 
> When water cooling, do you have to completely empty out all the liquid to accomodate new parts? (eg. do you have to empty out the water to install a newer CPU? Same for GPU)



No, not if you leave enough slack in your loop to allow you to remove the waterblock from the screws.  This is why it's important to leave some slack.  As for the video card it may be inevitable to have to drain the loop in order to remove the gpu wb from the video card.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Feb 18, 2008)

This is why you stick to distilled water

As you can see, from the fluids tested, distilled water comes out ahead, specially when you factor in cost.


----------



## Wile E (Feb 19, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> This is why you stick to distilled water
> 
> As you can see, from the fluids tested, distilled water comes out ahead, specially when you factor in cost.



Although MCT-40 and Feser 1 don't fair too badly. You should also mention that distilled water usually requires more frequent flushing. Not by a lot, but more none-the-less.


----------



## intel igent (Feb 19, 2008)

Wile E said:


> Although MCT-40 and Feser 1 don't fair too badly. You should also mention that distilled water usually requires more frequent flushing. Not by a lot, but more none-the-less.



had distilled water + glycol mixed 90/10 in use for over 2yrs without being flushed.

must of been something to do with flushing the loop prior to use and using similar metals 

i think those fluids are not worth the money.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Feb 19, 2008)

intel igent said:


> had distilled water + glycol mixed 90/10 in use for over 2yrs without being flushed.
> 
> must of been something to do with flushing the loop prior to use and using similar metals
> 
> i think those fluids are not worth the money.



For the amount of money your right.  




Wile E said:


> Although MCT-40 and Feser 1 don't fair too badly. You should also mention that distilled water usually requires more frequent flushing. Not by a lot, but more none-the-less.



I honestly don't see the need to consistently flush your system unless you notice something odd like algae.  A drop of PT Nuke when you use distilled water should prevent that.  I use a few drops of 91% alcohol (as I have a Cyclone 120 reservoir) with no ill effects for about a year now.

Original Post updated (includes signature)


----------



## Wile E (Feb 20, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> For the amount of money your right.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Oh, I'm not disagreeing with you, just posting a possible pitfall to using straight distilled water. I didn't mean to make it out to be a big deal. You might have to flush your loop out a month or two earlier without additives is all. I personally use straight distilled water. The performance of MCT-40 and Fester just surprised me.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Feb 20, 2008)

Wile E said:


> Oh, I'm not disagreeing with you, just posting a possible pitfall to using straight distilled water. I didn't mean to make it out to be a big deal. You might have to flush your loop out a month or two earlier without additives is all. I personally use straight distilled water. The performance of MCT-40 and Fester just surprised me.



Oh, no I didn't take it that way, sorry if I sounded like I did.  After the discussion I added PT Nuke to the OP.  So, in a way I have you to thank for bring it up


----------



## CrAsHnBuRnXp (Feb 20, 2008)

Another noob question. How do you know what tube to put where? I know one is an intake and the other pushes it back out, but like where do you route the tubes (to and from) from teh CPU and GFX?


----------



## Fitseries3 (Feb 20, 2008)

check out and help out....
http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?p=666582

thanks in advance.


----------



## Wile E (Feb 20, 2008)

If I was doing a single loop with both the gpu and cpu, I'd go like this: Pump>CPU>GPU>Radiator>Reservoir>pump.


----------



## CrAsHnBuRnXp (Feb 20, 2008)

What if you were to add chipset into the mix?


----------



## Wile E (Feb 20, 2008)

CrAsHnBuRnXp said:


> What if you were to add chipset into the mix?



I would go pump>cpu>chipset>gpu>rad>res>pump.

But honestly, at that point, I would consider going with dual loops, or at least add another rad to the mix, so long as my pump was up to it.


----------



## intel igent (Feb 20, 2008)

CrAsHnBuRnXp said:


> Another noob question. How do you know what tube to put where? I know one is an intake and the other pushes it back out, but like where do you route the tubes (to and from) from teh CPU and GFX?



loop order doesnt really matter in a closed loop, but generally you want to use the shortest, straightest lengths of tubing as possible to achieve a clean looking and efficient loop.

you obviously want to make shure the outs go to the ins and vice-versa (to keep the flow flowing) 

eg: pump out > cpu in > cpu out > rad in > rad out > GFX in > GFX out > pump in. 

the order doesnt really matter just an idea so you get the point


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Feb 21, 2008)

CrAsHnBuRnXp said:


> Another noob question. How do you know what tube to put where? I know one is an intake and the other pushes it back out, but like where do you route the tubes (to and from) from teh CPU and GFX?



There is some good advice offered on your question.  If you want to know anything specific don't hesitate to ask.


----------



## intel igent (Feb 26, 2008)

drip drip drip


----------



## Wile E (Feb 26, 2008)

intel igent said:


> drip drip drip



That was my loop like 2 weeks ago. Stupid reducers! 

I'm just about to order a Petra's or Alphacool top, and a new cpu block, so I can just convert to 1/2" (tho I'll probably run 7/16") tubing.

Any suggestions for a block for a quad, anyone?


----------



## Wile E (Feb 26, 2008)

Ok guys, I've narrowed my cpu block choices down to either the D-Tek Fuzion, or the EK Surpreme. According to OC3D's review, the EK performs better on an OCed quad, but is much more restrictive. Like, almost as restrictive as the Storm.

And what are the recommendations for a gpu block? Never really did much research into them. MCW60 and Maze5 pop to ming immediately, but are there any better block for the price?


----------



## intel igent (Feb 27, 2008)

@ wileE: sux about the leak, good thing nothing was injured 

pump tops, freshly posted:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=178575


----------



## Wile E (Feb 27, 2008)

Actually, I went out on a limb, and decided to try a newcomer to the DDC pump top game. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=201&products_id=22629

And I decided against getting a new cpu block for now. I'm gonna make the conversion to 1/2" first, and see if that helps at all.

I also ordered a Maze 5 for my gpu. I stuck with it because I know it's very widely compatible.

Now, next debate, I have 2 ways I can run the gpu. I can run it in the loop with my cpu, or I can set it up on it's own independant 3/8" loop, with a single 120mm rad. I don't really want to raise my cpu temps, but I also don't want my gpu performance to suffer too much. I mean, it'd be pretty useless if the 120mm rad setup didn't get me any further than a good air cooler.


----------



## MKmods (Feb 27, 2008)

First to EastCoasthandle, that is the best first post I have ever read, excellent job!

to Wile E: with that huge case run dual setups.

I just built a Carbonfiber SLI LAN box (made my own GPU blocks)


----------



## calvary1980 (Feb 27, 2008)

do you have the specs on the pump? your only running CPU and Video Card I don't see what the fuss is about.

- Christine


----------



## Wile E (Feb 27, 2008)

calvary1980 said:


> do you have the specs on the pump? your only running CPU and Video Card I don't see what the fuss is about.
> 
> - Christine


It's a MCP-350/DDC-1. But I have no idea how that top is gonna perform.

And I'm worried about maximizing my setup, because I'm on OC Team Palit, and every Mhz counts for me, lest I lose my ride. So, I'm here getting opinions on what others might think is best.

Worse comes to worst, I'll just test it both ways, but it never hurts to ask before I waste time. lol.


----------



## calvary1980 (Feb 27, 2008)

by the way love the thread but the plastic hose clamps on page 1 are horrible they can shift around or even come off and they are not necessary for 7/16" tubing often system builders will buy a pack of cables ties usually 4" black or white for cable management or fans they work great as clamps. I would also stay away from 90' fittings it will just add more restriction with Tygon Tubing you don't need Smart Coils or Fittings because the Tubing has a good bend radius. Pump is fine 

- Christine


----------



## MKmods (Feb 27, 2008)

I use the MCP 355 with the Koolance top (better porting and more choices on hose posistion)
http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=466


----------



## philbrown23 (Feb 27, 2008)

Here's my kit!
1 D-tek FuZion with pro mount and accelerator nozzle kit
2 swifteck Mcpsomthing pump
3 3/8 id tubing with reducers for pump
4 swiftech mcr220/res soon to be fillport I'm just too lazy to drill the hole lol
 and future switchout/addon of the mcr320 rad
2x  yate loon 90cfm fans (Idon't mind the noise)


----------



## intel igent (Feb 27, 2008)

Wile E said:


> It's a MCP-350/DDC-1. But I have no idea how that top is gonna perform



have a look at my last post, i think its in there 

what rad is the single 120? what fans? shroud or no shroud?


----------



## DaMulta (Feb 27, 2008)

I am using this pump on 17v with my meanwell
DD12V-D5 Pump Fixed Speed












With the meanwell I can tell a huge differance in the way my pump runs.I just let it run 24/7 because it's not hurting anything. It sounds like a fish tank LOL.


----------



## intel igent (Feb 27, 2008)

@ DaMulta : D-5b? there is some question as to the actual setting of the pump as they are reported to be fixed at setting 4 but there have been a few instances reported of performance identical to setting 2, so be carefull 

i think the heat dump from yor pump at 17v would offset the perormance increase, 13.5v-14v is the sweet spot for your pump IIRC, 18v for an IWAKI 

@ phillbrown : get rid of the reducers and run 7/16th tubing with 1/2" barbs


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Feb 27, 2008)

Wile E said:


> Ok guys, I've narrowed my cpu block choices down to either the D-Tek Fuzion, or the EK Surpreme. According to OC3D's review, the EK performs better on an OCed quad, but is much more restrictive. Like, almost as restrictive as the Storm.
> 
> And what are the recommendations for a gpu block? Never really did much research into them. MCW60 and Maze5 pop to ming immediately, but are there any better block for the price?



I would get the d-tek FuZion.  I've tried a few in my time and the d-tek is a better WB IMO.  The storm was a good block for a single die CPU and I loved it but it doesn't compare to the FuZion.





MKmods said:


> First to EastCoasthandle, that is the best first post I have ever read, excellent job!
> 
> to Wile E: with that huge case run dual setups.
> 
> I just built a Carbonfiber SLI LAN box (made my own GPU blocks)


Thanks 
Not bad on the WB, are you a metal worker by trade? 





calvary1980 said:


> by the way love the thread but the plastic hose clamps on page 1 are horrible they can shift around or even come off and they are not necessary for 7/16" tubing often system builders will buy a pack of cables ties usually 4" black or white for cable management or fans they work great as clamps. I would also stay away from 90' fittings it will just add more restriction with Tygon Tubing you don't need Smart Coils or Fittings because the Tubing has a good bend radius. Pump is fine
> 
> - Christine



I know you can use 7/16" tubing on 1/2" ID barbs without the fasteners (at first).  However, over time the tubing begins to "mold" itself into the shape of the barb and it may keep it's seal however in my experience it can fail, losing it's seal and dumping a hard stream of water onto your PC.  If you remove your tubing from the barb after a few months it typically will not reseal itself like it did the first time you tried it (when the tubing was in new condition).  You will see the end of the tubing taking on the shape of the barb making a air/water tight seal impossible.  

This is why I never recommend nor suggest installing tubing without fasteners.  This is why the plastic fasteners are just fine, if they are loose and your hand is not strong enough to tighten it down, use a pair of wide moth pliers.  If the plastic fasteners are to big/small then get the metal kind.  However, these are a bit difficult to tighten down or un-tighten once the PC is put together for the video card and CPU WB as screwdriver is typically to long to properly maneuver.  The plastic tighteners have an advantage in this avenue.


----------



## Fitseries3 (Feb 27, 2008)

i've got a d-tek fusion currently as well as a DD MC-TDX and a swiftech apogee gt and the d-tek is the best overall in performance.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Feb 28, 2008)

slight update to OP


----------



## DaMulta (Feb 28, 2008)

Now my CPU voltage should read 1.56V.
My setup

DD12V-D5 Pump Fixed Speed

MEANWELL S-320-12
Black Ice GTX240
Copper TDX Block for AMD AM2 Processor
Chrome Version MAZE4GPU
Danger Den Single 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir


----------



## DaMulta (Feb 28, 2008)

I also use tubing with nylon in it.






It's harder to fight leaks with it, but no crinks in the tubes.


Also I have found it easier to just get one of these 





 to bleed the system.
It's faster and easier by far.


----------



## Wile E (Feb 28, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> I would get the d-tek FuZion.  I've tried a few in my time and the d-tek is a better WB IMO.  The storm was a good block for a single die CPU and I loved it but it doesn't compare to the FuZion.


I wasn't looking at the Storm, I was looking at the EK Supreme. It's been tested to cool better than the Fuzion, but it's about as restrictive as the storm.

http://www.petrastechshop.com/eksuuncpuwa1.html

Review here: http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews.php?/cases_cooling/ek_supreme_cpu_water_block/4

I'm still torn on which block to get, Fuzion or EK, but I have decided to commit to running my cpu in it's own loop, so I don't think the restriction of the EK block will be an issue.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Feb 28, 2008)

Wile E said:


> I wasn't looking at the Storm, I was looking at the EK Supreme. It's been tested to cool better than the Fuzion, but it's about as restrictive as the storm.
> 
> http://www.petrastechshop.com/eksuuncpuwa1.html
> 
> ...



I see, well the difference in that review certainly doesn't justify the restriction.  IMO, 2C and better would be worth it but in most cases it' less then 1C.  


DaMulta:
That's not a bad setup.  How long have you had it?


----------



## Wile E (Feb 28, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> I see, well the difference in that review certainly doesn't justify the restriction.  IMO, 2C and better would be worth it but in most cases it' less then 1C.


Yeah, you're probably right. Guess I'll just get the Fuzion. And not only that, I was thinking more about it, and they didn't test it against a jetted Fuzion. So with tweaks, the Fuzion will likely pull ahead again anyway.


----------



## DaMulta (Feb 28, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> I see, well the difference in that review certainly doesn't justify the restriction.  IMO, 2C and better would be worth it but in most cases it' less then 1C.
> 
> 
> DaMulta:
> That's not a bad setup.  How long have you had it?



I have had most of it from about September. I bought it when I was running two 180Watt Tecs on X1950XTX cards. It would idle at -2c, so the TECs was kept plenty cool.


----------



## intel igent (Mar 1, 2008)

just when i thought i was done 

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=2809060&posted=1#post2809060

it just keeps getting better


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 1, 2008)

ok fellas here is my question. I am using some older parts and it seems to be working well enough for my E6400.

I am using an older TDX waterblock with the restricter placed over the fins on the inlet side.

I am also using a Hydor Seltz L30 which even at the 2 foot head to the rad will run 4.6Gal/minute.
will removing the "cats eye" restricter, will temps go up or down?


----------



## intel igent (Mar 1, 2008)

4.6 GPM how did you get this? using Martinm210's flow calc? 

flow calculator/estimator:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=151627

the purpose of the nozzles/plates is to create turbulence which in turn increases cooling efficiency, i think your temps would increase by removing it.


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 1, 2008)

intel igent said:


> 4.6 GPM how did you get this? using Martinm210's flow calc?



http://www.overclockers.com/articles672/

I did the math based on 275GPH @ 2foot head.  Its 4.5888888GPM

Also with the original TDX which DD doesnt show anylonger, they had like a 5 piece kit. Different sizes and one to do yourself, but they also said to try without.


----------



## intel igent (Mar 1, 2008)

put your pump in a loop and those #'s will change because you've added restrictions, the #'s you're posting are free flow #'s.

 i posted the flow estimator for you incase you were unaware of its existence it is very helpfull

what else is going in the loop?

when got into W/C the 3 barb blox were king 

i remember most of those early days including somethings about the TDX


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 1, 2008)

just what is in the specs....no Graphics just CPU

I dont see a flow estimator...could you repost...also most of the estimators dont use my parts in thier lists!


----------



## intel igent (Mar 1, 2008)

leave the plate in there for reasons i mentioned earlier

do you have any of the other plates?

theres the link to the estimator in post #104


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 1, 2008)

nope it would be with or without.


----------



## intel igent (Mar 1, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> nope it would be with or without.



with the plate, check my previous posts if you missed something


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 1, 2008)

Version 2.5 doesnt have my pump and I couldnt seem to get rid of the GPU block!


----------



## intel igent (Mar 1, 2008)

thats strange? ive seen your pump listed on there before.......

try and go directy to his site liquidlabs or something he might have a better version posted there


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 1, 2008)

went to the link in his public profile to his download page and got version 2.5 the newest since February 3rd or close.  Does show the L20 but I still couldnt remove the GPU block the blank line in the dropdown is greyed out...lol  


Thanks tho....maybe I just need to try it and see, altho I will report either way so you can have an I told ya so....lol


----------



## Wile E (Mar 2, 2008)

Well, I ordered my Fuzion. Got the Pro mount with it, and a nozzle kit. Should be here Friday.


----------



## Fitseries3 (Mar 2, 2008)

anyone want to temporarily donate their d-tek fuzion in order for me to make a lexan/acrylic top and mid section for it? im gonna be selling these once i get them made. if your interested... i WILL give you your block back along with your new lexan/acrylic top and mid sections free of charge. PM me if interested.


----------



## intel igent (Mar 2, 2008)

Wile E said:


> Well, I ordered my Fuzion. Got the Pro mount with it, and a nozzle kit. Should be here Friday.



nice what nozzle are you planning to use?

the quad?


----------



## Wile E (Mar 3, 2008)

intel igent said:


> nice what nozzle are you planning to use?
> 
> the quad?


Yeah, I read some reviews that saw some nice results by using the quad nozzle. The only downside is, none of them compare the quad nozzle to other nozzles, so I don't actually know if it's the best choice. I might get around to experimenting with it at some point, but for now, I'll just use the quad.


----------



## DOM (Mar 3, 2008)

Wile E said:


> Yeah, I read some reviews that saw some nice results by using the quad nozzle. The only downside is, none of them compare the quad nozzle to other nozzles, so I don't actually know if it's the best choice. I might get around to experimenting with it at some point, but for now, I'll just use the quad.


this guy did it but only with the 4.5 and Q nozzle


new loop took about a week to do cuz of work but took less time to finish changed the coolant to distilled water + PT_Nuke + UV Reactive Pentosin G11 Coolant Additive (Blue) think i need more cuz its not UV Reactive  and added a/c filter on the rad and bottom of the case the intake to keep the dust out and off the rad and fans looks better to me 

before 






after


----------



## intel igent (Mar 4, 2008)

nice rig DOM  what kind of temps you get with your fuzion mounted in that manner? which mounting are you using for it?


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 4, 2008)

Yes, nice setup Dom


----------



## DOM (Mar 5, 2008)

intel igent said:


> nice rig DOM  what kind of temps you get with your fuzion mounted in that manner? which mounting are you using for it?


stock, and heres small on prime and with the fur for the gpu idle and load 







EastCoasthandle said:


> Yes, nice setup Dom


thanks  need some blue uv dye so it glows in the dark


----------



## DaMulta (Mar 5, 2008)

I love your setup!!!


----------



## DOM (Mar 5, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> I love your setup!!!



who me


----------



## Grings (Mar 6, 2008)

I just got a Swiftech Apex Ultra kit (don't shoot me, it was v.cheap) ready for my new chip (still cant decide between q6600 or e8400)
I am gonna get a thermochill rad, and use the swiftech one for a (separate) gpu loop (im getting a new graphics card in a month or 2, once i've seen how the 98xx Nvidia's perform, i don't want to w/c either of my current cards) anyway, i have some questions:

1. Is this any good?, i know its pretty weak, but this will be a 1 waterblock loop (preferably low restriction), will it cope, or would i be better off getting a ddc or another d5?

2. (A question for Dom) Did having you're d5 mounted as in you're 'before' picture (with the mount vertical) make any difference? (either noise-wise OR performance-wise?)

3. As this pump i have Swiftech 655-b doesn't have a speed controller, what would be the best way of controlling its speed?, im a bit wary of using something like a rheobus as they seem to have a habit of blowing channels with a regular fan, let alone a (reasonably) powerful pump. I have got a few old crude speed controllers from old cpu heatsinks laying around, would one of these do? (heck, can i even control its speed by voltage regulation?, i know you can with DDC pumps, so i assume you can with this too)  

Thanks, Grings


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 7, 2008)

Grings said:


> I just got a Swiftech Apex Ultra kit (don't shoot me, it was v.cheap) ready for my new chip (still cant decide between q6600 or e8400)
> I am gonna get a thermochill rad, and use the swiftech one for a (separate) gpu loop (im getting a new graphics card in a month or 2, once i've seen how the 98xx Nvidia's perform, i don't want to w/c either of my current cards) anyway, i have some questions:
> 
> 1. Is this any good?, i know its pretty weak, but this will be a 1 waterblock loop (preferably low restriction), will it cope, or would i be better off getting a ddc or another d5?
> ...


If you are only using 1 water block the 655-b should be more then enough for your needs.  Unless I misunderstood something, you can let it run at it's rated speeds without having to control it.  I find no reason why to buy another pump at this time.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 7, 2008)

For those that like the Laing DDC 3.2 (MPC 355) the best top for it appears to be the XSPC Acrylic Reservoir DDC Top.  You can read a review of several different modded tops here


----------



## Grings (Mar 7, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> If you are only using 1 water block the 655-b should be more then enough for your needs.  Unless I misunderstood something, you can let it run at it's rated speeds without having to control it.  I find no reason why to buy another pump at this time.



What i meant was, i'll be using the 655-b for the CPU loop, and running a completely seperate loop for the GPU (hence the second pump)

As for the speed control, I just want something to fiddle with


----------



## DaMulta (Mar 7, 2008)

Black Ice XtremeIII Radiator
Our price: $64.95

Black Ice GTX120 


DD12V-D5 Pump Fixed Speed
Our price: $76.95

Acetal Top MAZE4-1GPU Peltier Version
Our price: $62.96

Acetal Top MAZE4-1GPU Peltier Version
Our price: $62.96

Danger Den Dual 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir 	$31.95 

Criticool Power Plant
Our price: $28.95

Still looking for the Swiftech MCW6500-T-775 Thermoelectric CPU Liquid Cooling Block (Socket 775) Out of Stock

My plan is to do this on one loop for 2 8800GT cards, and the q6600 CPU.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 7, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> Black Ice XtremeIII Radiator
> Our price: $64.95
> 
> Black Ice GTX120
> ...



Do you have room for a Meanwell S320-12? 

I wonder if you canbuy directly from Swiftech?


----------



## DaMulta (Mar 7, 2008)

I have a 320 but I'm thing about a 600 to run everything OK.

I hope there is room in there.


----------



## Wile E (Mar 7, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> I have a 320 but I'm thing about a 600 to run everything OK.
> 
> I hope there is room in there.


The 600W is 24V, iirc.


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 8, 2008)

Thanks for redirecting me too this post Eastcosthandle.

It got me a few steps further too good cooling, but still the question remains.

Will two 120.2 radiators be cooled down enough, the CFM rating off the 25cm i want too use is 105.2.

If you would put 4 120mm fans on the radiators as would be possible then the totaal CFM flow would be about double that amount.

But you have too take in consideration i do not want a vacuumcleaner connected to my pc.:shadedshu
Neither am i seeking the best performance you can get, i want a good reliable and somewhat quiet systeem too cool my new pc down.

So silence is a big issue here, that's why i have an zalman reserator 1 plus now.

I have learend from this topic that the combination Laing D5 and EKsupreme is good sinds the pump will produce enough pressure too the cpu block.

Now for another part of WC i already read that a reservoir is not really needed, but what solution is better/more reliable a reservoir or a T-piece with a hose to fill.

The gpu block is still a bit of a mistery sinds i am waiting for the new 9... series from nvidia, and also the mainboard is still a question mark sinds i want the X48 chipset and there are not many mainboards with that out there yet.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 8, 2008)

[MD]Phantom said:


> Thanks for redirecting me too this post Eastcosthandle.
> 
> It got me a few steps further too good cooling, but still the question remains.
> 
> ...



If I understood your correctly, if all you want to use is a fan that uses roughly 25CFM then you should invest in Thermochill's PA120.3.  All you really need is 3 fans.  Personally, I would get the Scythe SFF21E 49 CFM S-FLEX.  The Yate Loons are rated at 28dBAs while the Scythe SFF21E are rated around 20 dBAs.

I personally recommend a reservoir do to the bleed times with a T-line and the amount of air pockets in the rad/blocks with a T-line vs res.

The Maximus Formula is a solid board (although it does take getting use to when OC'ing).  I haven't found the need for a X48 over a X38 at this time when using DDR2 memory.  X48 offers official support with DDR3 1600 without over clocking and the ability to support intel's future CPU that's has a 800 FSB (not sure on the last part).


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 8, 2008)

Apparently i did not write it down good enough,

De diameter off the fan i want too use is 250mm or 25 cm.

The airflow it can produce is 105.2 CFM.

The PA120.3 is too long and the fan will not cover the entire surface off the radiator that would bee a shame, thats why i want too use 2 PA120.2 in a blok or square formation and i will make a frame too hold them in place then i want too attach the 25cm/250mm fan on one side off that.

I will try too make a drawing too clear things up,


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 8, 2008)

Something like this, i hope this cleares up a little.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 8, 2008)

[MD]Phantom said:


> Apparently i did not write it down good enough,
> 
> De diameter off the fan i want too use is 250mm or 25 cm.
> 
> ...


  There is also MagiCool XTREME Nova 1080 Radiator.


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 8, 2008)

Well i see i have a lot more research too do sinds there are already radiators that are build the way i want it.

like this one too airplex evo 1080 i

And mounting one 250mm fan on it will probably do the job just fine.

TY for the answers so far, i will be back when i have done more research so i do not ask questions i could have found on my one.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 8, 2008)

[MD]Phantom said:


> Well i see i have a lot more research too do sinds there are already radiators that are build the way i want it.
> 
> like this one too airplex evo 1080 i
> 
> ...



No problem, if you have time call them up and ask them what hardware is needed with the airplex evo 1080 i.  That appears to be what you are looking for so far.  In any case if you have any more questions don't hesitate to ask.


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 8, 2008)

Well i have trown overboard all i had till now,

reasons beeing,

The EK supreme will not perform good in a loop with more than only the cpu block it seems.
And i am going to put more than 1 block on the loop.
The Laing D5 is the same as the Swiftech MCP655-B, so i will check prices for wich one.

The radiator can only be somewhat of two PA120.2 sinds the bigger ones like the airplex evo 1080 i or the MagiCool XTREME Nova 1080 Radiator are apperently FLOW KILLERS.

So that's out of the question.

insted of the EK supreme i will check the D-Tek fuzion or maybee a Nexxox x2.


So almost back to square 1.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 8, 2008)

[MD]Phantom said:


> Well i have trown overboard all i had till now,
> 
> reasons beeing,
> 
> ...



Here is a suggestion: 
Fuzion for the CPU
Maze5 for the GPU (with appropriate ram sinks, if needed)
tubing size 7/16" ID, 11/16" OD (unless you prefer a smaller size tube)
PA120.3 rad
d5 pump


----------



## SirKeldon (Mar 8, 2008)

In first term, wanna say thank you to EastCoastHandle for directing me to this post, and also DaMulta cause he saved my life in a previous thread that i started claiming for some help for watercooling, here's my setup:

- CPU Waterblock: Enzotech SCW-1 (super high density, real mirror finish, i think it would be in the same level as Fuzion or DD, check the official page)
- Radiator: HWLabs BlackIce GT Stealth 120x1 (installed with 2xSilenX iXtrema Pro series in a pull->push setting)
- Reservoir: Thermaltake AquaBay M3
- Pump: Hydor L20 Pro (brings 700 lph)
- Tube: 1/2" (18-12mm) Tubclair
- Coolant: Feser One Cooling Fluid

As i was cooling just my CPU, DaMulta said to me to use this setup: res-out to pump-in, pump-out to cpu-in, cpu-out to rad-in and rad-out to res-in. It's working well and cools appropiated though i saw different setups to mount it in a different way, don't know if that setups will work better than the one i have, most common alternative i've seen is rad-out to cpu-in, cpu-out to res-in, res-out to pump-in and pump-out to rad-in ... but in this way the water passing through the pump will be always hot as well as the reservoir one, and my pump didn't resists water more than 35-45ºC so i think i'll keep as i mounted it, water is always "fresh" at the res and pump so now the question is referring to the rad, what will cool better, the 120x1 with pull->push fan setup i'm owning or a 120x2 just with push fan setup?

Also i read in first post that the reservoir must be higher than the pump, mine's at the same level, maybe a few mm up but it was impossible to mount it in another bay to keep the good access to some parts of the mobo and also to let the airflow work better, i think the flow is working appropiated since it's all well cooled but i'll appreciate much your opinion. I'm adding photos of the rig for you to check:

General view of the tube connection:






Pump to reservoir detail:





Radiator detail:





Closed with cold cathodes on  (sorry about the quality of these ones, i turn off the light to better see the cold cathodes)










Hope you like it though it's not finished yet, pump is directly connected with an AC plug and just doesn't fits to pass through PCI bays so i have to install a switch for it, it will be more comfortable for me and finally i'll can pass the cable through the PCI hole and close the other lateral panel without messing anything 

ps: DOM rig it's amazing and so well modded, i wish i could be less clumsy to do that beauty things, i can't beat it with mine


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 8, 2008)

SirKeldon, 
That is one awesome water cooled setup you have there.  Thanks for sharing.


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 8, 2008)

I was thinking of making two seperate loops.

Are there any radiators out there that are a bit cheaper and still performs well, maybee the Nexxox xtreme rev 2 or two airplexe pro 240 or XT or EVO, or some black ICE type of radiator.

Have too read some test and reviews too find the best value for money radiator.
Have been searching and searching but thermochill is the best of the best that's for sure, and worth the money.

And have too find two pumps that will be sufficient for the job without costing a arm and a leg. I was thinking about two Hydor Seltz L30 i can get those for 27.76 euro each.

Or two eheim 1046-790 for 30,00 euro each fitted with keramiklagerung. the ones with the better berings i understand.

And what about the eheim compact pumps i have seen in a shop they are cheap and can get 1000l/Hour trough the tubing.

The max price is about 40 euro for each pump other wise the amount of money spend will get out of control.

Until now i have spend,
166,45 Euro for the Thermaltake Mozart TX case
44.91 Euro for three 250 mm fans

and as it looks now,
around 160 Euro for two PA120.2's
around 50 Euro for a EK supreme

i still need two pumps and reservoirs, and later on a gpu block
Making it a 2 loop system.
As well as cuplings and hoses,

I have been reading a lot of artikels and it seems that 1/2 inch tubing is the better one, correct me if im wrong.

Sinds the cpu will not likely get as hot as the gpu i will put the motherboard cooling in that loop, and schould still hev enough pressure i hope. Correct me if im wrong.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 9, 2008)

[MD]Phantom said:


> I was thinking of making two seperate loops.
> 
> Are there any radiators out there that are a bit cheaper and still performs well, maybee the Nexxox xtreme rev 2 or two airplexe pro 240 or XT or EVO, or some black ICE type of radiator.
> 
> ...



The Swiftech MCR320-QP or Swiftech MCR220-QP should be a good, cheaper alternative.  As for pumps the Hydor Seltz L30 should suite you fine.


----------



## Wile E (Mar 9, 2008)

Well, got my Fuzion and Bitspower pump top installed today. With uncured AS5, my temp drops under load are between 7-10C. I'm ecstatic with the results. After curing,I'm willing to bet it will drop another 3 or 4C, like it did with the Apogee GT.


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 9, 2008)

I have made up my mind about a few things,

CPU loop: hydor seltz L30/ Ek supreme/ thermaltake aquabay M3/ Thermochill PA120.2
GPU loop: hydor seltz L30/ to be decided/ thermaltake aquabay M3/ Thermochill PA 120.2
Mainboard loop: hydor seltz L20/ to be decided/ T-split/ ALPHACOOL NEXXXOS XTREME I REV 2/

The swiftech is very hard to find here.:shadedshu

And i have found a site where the PA120.2 is at a good price, and they are the best so i will use them.

If anyone thinks there is a better solution please tell me. TY.


----------



## SirKeldon (Mar 9, 2008)

[MD]Phantom said:


> Now to find the radiator, the swiftech is very hard to find here.:shadedshu



I'm a total noob yet but i think you'll be fine just with two Hydor L30 pumps and one reservoir, both pumps will bring about 2400 lph together. Then add two Thermochill PA120.2 you were thinking, or if the money is a problem with that ones take a see to the HWLabs BlackIce GTX 240 here.

I'll do a single loop but ensuring always fresh water this way: res -> 1st pump -> 1st rad -> cpu -> mobo -> gpu -> 2nd rad -> 2nd pump -> res. If you prefer a double loop: res -> 1st pump -> 1st rad -> cpu -> mobo -> 2nd rad -> 2nd pump -> gpu -> res.


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 9, 2008)

Well the trouble is the EK supreme will only function at top performance if the pressure is high enough.

Putting it in too another loop will bring the pressure down, them you should use a D-Tek fusion.

Is there any need for flow indicator.


----------



## intel igent (Mar 9, 2008)

@ wileE : nice to hear that you got such a noticeable improvement

anyone planning on using ANY of the HYDOR pumps i HIGHLY reccomend using them with FREE FLOWING blocks as those pumps have very low pressure characteristics and you will not have good performance.

you want to use a high pressure pump such as DDC/mcp355 with high restriction blocks or multi block loops.


----------



## Fitseries3 (Mar 9, 2008)

i'd say use the Laing D5/MCP-655. it's twice the pump that the DDC3.2/MCP355 is.


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 9, 2008)

anyone planning on using ANY of the HYDOR pumps i HIGHLY reccomend using them with FREE FLOWING blocks as those pumps have very low pressure characteristics and you will not have good performance.

you want to use a high pressure pump such as DDC/mcp355 with high restriction blocks or multi block loops.

[/QUOTE said:
			
		

> So u say the hydor pumps will not perform well with the EK supreme?.
> 
> I do not know if the EK supreme is a high pressure block, and will the better gpu blocks also be high pressure blocks?.
> 
> So pressure is not the same as L/H right because a L30 can pump 1200liters/hour and the mcp355 only around 450 Liters/Hour


----------



## intel igent (Mar 9, 2008)

@ fitseries : the D5/mcp655 has only slightly better FLOW and better reliability

@ [MD]Phantom : the EK is a high RESTRICTION block and i reccomend using a pump with higher PRESSURE characteristics to achieve good performance


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 9, 2008)

Oke i am looking for such a pump, i have been staring at some graphs here http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=10825

But i am not getting it, and not al pumps are listed on this.

Are all high pressure pumps that expensive?.

And how can you see that the pump you are looking at is a high pressure pump?, i have seen a lot of pumps already in a lot of stores and schops.
But how can you tell it's a high pressure pump.?


----------



## SirKeldon (Mar 9, 2008)

intel igent said:


> you want to use a high pressure pump such as DDC/mcp355 with high restriction blocks or multi block loops.



So do you recommend me too a high pressure pump for my Enzotech SCW-1 to perform better?? (the inside circuit is almost the same as D-Tek Fuzion one, so i suppose is a high restriction block too)

As for the radiator since i'm not a huge gamer i won't do a multiloop to the GPU, but i'm not sure what size to use, my case is mid-tower, just 45cm high and if i put a 120x2 rad i can't switch on the cables needed for the Audigy4 ... so i'm just thinking in another 120x1 rad that performs almost like one of 120x2, better than the HWLabs BlackIce GT Stealth 120 i'm currently owning, should i go to the Extreme version or a Thermochill PA120.1 will perform better? 

Thanks 

ps: all this modifications will be done within months but i'll enjoy hearing and taking notes of your recommendations


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 9, 2008)

The MCP600 is the old version the new one is the MCP655.

If i would use that pump would it be enough pressure too do boot the CPU and GPU block?.

Because getting 2 MCP655's is a little expensive.
And wouldn't it be better then too use the MCP355 or a MCP350 because the MCP655 will put a lot of heat into the water.

I really start getting crazy.


----------



## Wile E (Mar 9, 2008)

[MD]Phantom, I suggest getting the DTek Fuzion instead of the EK block. The EK block barely bested the Fuzion, but the Fuzion it was compared against didn't have any optional nozzles installed. With a nozzle installed, the Fuzion performs better than the EK. Considering you are gonna have more than one block in your loop, I believe it is the way you should go.

For a pump, An MCP355 with a different top would work great with the Dtek Fuzion and GPU in the same loop.


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 9, 2008)

Sinds the high pressure pumps all are very expensive in my eyes.

Wich is better when put in a single loop, with the d-tek fusion with nozzle kit and a GPU-block (still too be found).

This one,
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=4291&cat=537&page=1

Or this one,
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=2381&cat=537&page=1

The loop will also contain 2 Thermochill PA120.2's with a single 250mm fan attached.
And 1 thermaltake aquabay M3


----------



## Wile E (Mar 9, 2008)

Either will do quite well. The D5 is said to be a little more reliable. Personally, I run a DDC-1 with a top. It's down to personal choice, at this point.


----------



## SirKeldon (Mar 9, 2008)

I read in many webs that this Enzotech i'm owning got the best of the Swiftech, DD exterior design and D-Tek Fuzion inside ... i'll need a new pump too, and as i'm reading all of you it seems a Swiftech MCP355 or any DDC-1 will fit but since i'll be condemned, i think, to use just a 120x1 radiator (still deciding if i'll get Thermochill or HWLabs BlackIce Xtreme), what will be the best option? One bringing more flow as the MCP655 or the MCP355 will offer the same performance? (the rad is outside and must be outside so i think i'll need more flow with the appropiated pressure these pumps will give me but correct me if i'm wrong)

Also i'm noticing my pump with the hours gets hot, and so the water that flows inside it and goes directly to the CPU. Actually the circuit is res -> pump -> cpu -> rad -> res. If i change the circuit to: res->pump->radiator->cpu->res i'll notice better performance or since the rad is outside it will be the same?


----------



## Wile E (Mar 9, 2008)

With a single block loop, you won't see much difference changing loop order. Maybe a degree or 2. For a single 120mm rad, get the PA120 from Thermochill. Since you're running only one block, my recomendation for you are the same as Phantom. A DDC-1 with a top, or a D5 will both be more than enough.


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 9, 2008)

@SirKeldon, i have seen a lot of shops al ready and a PA120.1 will cost almost as much as a PA120.2 with a difference of only 7 euro at times, and i have seen that the PA120.2 is performing considerably better. Maybee that would be a better choice?.


Oke let's asses it then, as it is now

1 pump i preffer the Laing DDC1+ 12v (i think)
2 Thermochill PA120.2 (most expensive parts that's for sure)
1 thermaltake aquabay M3
1 D-Tek fuzion with nozzle kit
1 Gpu block (still too be found)
1 RADI120AL Magicool Radiator 120 aluminium
1 Hydor Seltz L20 Universal pump

Well this is it i think then, fluid and other minor things not included.

it will cost around 300-350 euro's.
A lot off money, 

And still i wonder if i use the Laing D5 won't that pump be strong enough too incorporate the EK supreme?. Reason it's a bit cheaper. The D-Tek wil cost me about 70 Euro and the EK supreme around 45 Euro, a difference of 25 Euro.

The difference between the DDC1+ at 75.43 Euro and the Laing D5 at 80.02 Euro is only 5 Euro, so 20 Euro less spend.

I have saved money for a good watercooled system but i am not prepared to throw it out the window easily.


----------



## Wile E (Mar 9, 2008)

Are you gonna run 2 loops, or just one? If you put the cpu in it's own loop, those pumps will work fine with the EK block.


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 9, 2008)

@Wile E,

For a pump, An MCP355 with a different top would work great with the Dtek Fuzion and GPU in the same loop.

This was what you said a few posts earlier, so i was creating the WC for a single loop.

I was planning to use the Hydro L20 for the mainboard cooling.


----------



## Wile E (Mar 9, 2008)

[MD]Phantom said:


> @Wile E,
> 
> For a pump, An MCP355 with a different top would work great with the Dtek Fuzion and GPU in the same loop.
> 
> ...


If you go with the Dtek, then yeah, it will be fine to put the cpu and gpu in the loop.


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 9, 2008)

I am posting on another part in this forum about this, and there it was said that if you made one loop, the component that will be later in the loop will not be cooled down enough, sort off.

PS: i don't want too upset people by questioning they'r answers, because i am very greatfull for any answer i get. Being a bit of a Noob at this.


----------



## Wile E (Mar 9, 2008)

Cooling won't be as good, because you are adding more heat to the loop. But it will still be better than air. It's better to do 2 loops from a cooling standpoint, but it's often much easier to run one loop from a assembly standpoint. 2 loops = better cooling. 1 loop = more convenience.


----------



## Fitseries3 (Mar 9, 2008)

[MD]Phantom said:


> I am posting on another part in this forum about this, and there it was said that if you made one loop, the component that will be later in the loop will not be cooled down enough, sort off.
> 
> PS: i don't want too upset people by questioning they'r answers, because i am very greatfull for any answer i get. Being a bit of a Noob at this.



no.. it's cool. everyone has different thoughts about stuff. 

i have run single and dual loop setups and the dual loop cools better.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 9, 2008)

I've read a few posts that the L20 may rattle if not kept cool.  If you buy the L20, make sure you keep it in a well ventilated area.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 9, 2008)

[MD]Phantom said:


> @sirkeldon, i have seen a lot of shops al ready and a PA120.1 will cost almost as much as a PA120.2 with a difference of only 7 euro at times, and i have seen that the PA120.2 is performing considerably better. Maybee that would be a better choice?.
> 
> 
> Oke let's asses it then, as it is now
> ...





The list is not bad at all .  For cooling may I suggest distilled water (if available in your area).  I wouldn't use de-ionized water as it can corrode the metal in your blocks/rad to get its ions back.  A few drops of either PT Nuke or 91%+ rubbing alcohol should do the trick.  

The D5 pump should accommodate the cooling advantage found in a EK Surpreme in a single loop.  However, I am not sure if those advantages are had if you install more blocks to that loop.  Also note, that the advantages found are roughly 1C or less to a FuZion from what I've seen.


Edited for correction


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 9, 2008)

One thing is for sure im a bit overwhelmed with al this infomation, but still thank you all for it.

Maybee i started out the wrong way,

This is what i want, 

A watercooling solution that performs well and is still not too noisy and don't cost an arm and a leg (probably the perfect system as i read it now].

It has too cool down my new pc made of fast hardware, because i am a gamer.

The mainboard will probably be based on the X48 chipset, the CPU will be around the E8400 and i am intended too overclock it.

The GPU will be around the 8800GT and also will be overclocked.

Sinds there is not much information about the new intel processors and Nvidia graphics cards i cannot be more precies about it, but i am waiting for those two to be sold.

Another thing springs in too mind, the cost off this as i have it now will be around 300-350 euro, you can buy like a RESERATOR XT for the same price. But will it perform as good as a custom made WC?.

@fitseries3 was there a lot off difference between one and two loops?, in degrees if possible.

@Eastcoasthandle what other cheap but still good pump would you have in mind too keep the mainboard cool, if not the L20. Keeping in mind that maybee the RAM will also bee watercooled by it.

@Wile E i have a bit of a technical/mechanical background so inconviniance will be at a minimum. and as i understand your'e post if i want good cooling make two loops.

But will the performance outwheight the extra cost?.


----------



## Fitseries3 (Mar 9, 2008)

q6600 @ 3.6ghz and 8800gtx....

1 loop
q6600 33c idle.....46c load
8800gtx 39c idle....53c load

2 loop
q6600 26c idle.....35c load
8800gtx 36c idle....44c load

single loop was...
1x laing d5
PA120.3
DD GTX block
d-tek fuzion

dual loop was...
loop 1..
laing d5
d-tek fuzion
PA120.2

loop 2..
DD GTX block
laing d5
PA120.3 

i had 2 gtxs on the GPU loop as well and temps were only about 1-3c higher.

pics in my sig.


----------



## SirKeldon (Mar 9, 2008)

[MD]Phantom said:


> @sirkeldon, i have seen a lot of shops al ready and a PA120.1 will cost almost as much as a PA120.2 with a difference of only 7 euro at times, and i have seen that the PA120.2 is performing considerably better. Maybee that would be a better choice?.



Money is not the problem at all, space is, to use it i'll have to buy an adaptor to place it at the 120mm fan bay that's located onto the rear of the case, this is not the main problem cause i'll be able to do it ... but since my case is a mid-tower one (45cm high) i think it won't allow me to connect the graphics cards connector as well as the Audigy4 Pro ones if the 120x2 rad is there so i said i thought i'll be condemned to use just 120x1 rad, and as i can see, Thermochill is the best option so i'll get one, i will measure well before buying one of them.

As EastCoastHandle says, my L20 produces a lot of heat and starts rattle sometimes, the heat produced are not just that 14W they say on the specs cause the transformer from 220 to 12V sure it's located inside and produces extra heat, so if you're planning to get it, i'll place it outta the case. Since i have this problem i want to know if a D5 will produce the same heat as this Hydor L20 cause if the answer is yes or maybe more, i'll get just a MCP355 with a modified top. I think neither of them won't produce that heat cause both pumps are built to work on 12V and not 220V but your answer will be very appreciated. Thanks in advance


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 9, 2008)

[MD]Phantom,
The L20 is the cheapest that I know of at this time (according to what you quoted in a previous post regarding pricing in your area). However, you may look into
Danger Den DD-CPX1 
Danger Den DDC-12V 18 Watt Version 3.2

But read this thread about the MCP350/355 failure rate problem. The update to that post is found here

These are 2 that I can think of right now.  I am not sure of their reliability as the DD-CPX1 if fairly new and the other, well read the link above.

If you decide on a waterblock that only cools the GPU (it only covers the gpu).  May I also suggest a ram/pwm sink for your video card?  Examples:
Iandh: Silver and Black
The guy who invented them posted a thread about it here
Thermalright 8800GT PWM Heatsinks

Post


> Originally Posted by gabe  View Post
> Ok guys, let's talk about reliability.
> 
> In preamble, let me apologize in advance as I am not at liberty to release thorough statistical data because I have to respect the factory directives on the subject matter. So please read between the lines on some of the basic facts below:
> ...


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 9, 2008)

SirKeldon said:


> Money is not the problem at all, space is, to use it i'll have to buy an adaptor to place it at the 120mm fan bay that's located onto the rear of the case, this is not the main problem cause i'll be able to do it ... but since my case is a mid-tower one (45cm high) i think it won't allow me to connect the graphics cards connector as well as the Audigy4 Pro ones if the 120x2 rad is there so i said i thought i'll be condemned to use just 120x1 rad, and as i can see, Thermochill is the best option so i'll get one, i will measure well before buying one of them.
> 
> As EastCoastHandle says, my L20 produces a lot of heat and starts rattle sometimes, the heat produced are not just that 14W they say on the specs cause the transformer from 220 to 12V sure it's located inside and produces extra heat, so if you're planning to get it, i'll place it outta the case. Since i have this problem i want to know if a D5 will produce the same heat as this Hydor L20 cause if the answer is yes or maybe more, i'll get just a MCP355 with a modified top. I think neither of them won't produce that heat cause both pumps are built to work on 12V and not 220V but your answer will be very appreciated. Thanks in advance



The D5 can get hot after prolong use but I don't believe it will get as hot as the L20.  I still suggest some sort of active cooling for either pump.


----------



## Fitseries3 (Mar 9, 2008)

just put the d5 by a fan. it doesn't get that hot. maybe 1 degree difference over a different pump.


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 10, 2008)

Maybee i should make my life easier by taking a waterblock that does not need high pressure to opperate at top performance.

Than i could use two L30's in a double loop,

As i have seen at the temps off fitseries3 it will be around 10 degrees difference that's a lot.

I know that a block wich is not as good as the Fuzion or supreme will cool less, but it won't be 10 degrees i think.

And i was thinking if i would make the loop like this RESERVOIR-PUMP-RADIATOR-CPU-RADIATOR-GPU-RESERVOIR.

Woudn't the second radiator cool down the water down enough?.

And then the search begins again, for a CPU block that does not need high pressure too operate good.

I was thinking of the L30 pumps 1300Liter/Hour is a lot of water that should be enough, shoudn't it?.

My zalman reserator that i have now does only 300Liter/Hour

And is 1 loop, and still keeps my Intel P4 prescott 3.4GHZ at around 40-45 degrees idle and the graphics card at 40-45 degrees too. When fully loaded they both get around 55-65 degrees.

@eastcosthandle, i always use distilled water it's easy too come buy and very cheap. And i also add some anti-corrosion stuff in it as well.

@eastcosthandle, i was indeed thinking off a GPU block that cools down the ram sinks as well.


----------



## SirKeldon (Mar 10, 2008)

[MD]Phantom said:


> I was thinking of the L30 pumps 1300Liter/Hour is a lot of water that should be enough, shoudn't it?.



They'll bring you just 1200 liter per hour, at the same level as the laing D5 ... but i don't know if that Hydor L30 will produce the same heat as my Hydor L20, as they said to you, keep the Hydor's ventilated or outside the case. The Hydor's have one advantage, they're meant to be on an aquarium so they can be submerged, you can do it to a place with always fresh water (as a portable beach fridge), suring the cooling of the pump and avoiding you from possible rattles if becomes hot, if i had the needed stuff, i'll do it.


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 10, 2008)

Here is a nice review on the L30 and this guy says that it would bee even strong enough for a high pressure block, go figure what's right and wrong.

http://www.gruntville.com/reviews/wc/hydor_l30/index.php

And here another one,

http://www.overclockers.com/articles723/


----------



## SirKeldon (Mar 10, 2008)

Yeah, it's a good pump, i have no doubt, my Hydor L20 is just 18EUR and is performing the job really well, just that "heat" issues. I read also good reviews about the Hydor L30, you'll getting a high-end pump but without the reliability of Laing, Swiftech or DD, it's on the same level of wattage and performance, and the price is really cool for that specs. I'd take note if the Hydor L30 (as her small sister) has also the 220->12V transformer inside, which will produce extra-heat to the water, or if you have place that will avoid them from heat, go ahead and think on better pumps for the future.


----------



## intel igent (Mar 10, 2008)

1)dont use a single 120 rad for anything OTHER than mosfets/nb/sb. even thats pushing it with the newer chips.

2)the money you will spend on a thermochill 120.1 will get you a VERY nice swiftech 120.2 maybe a 120.3. 

swiftech make the best price/performance rads.

3)LPH are only half the equation, that is only flow. you want a pump with good HEAD. 5ft - 6ft + is good, that is your pressure. that will tell you how well a pump will work with restrictions in the loop.

4)D4/D5 mcp650/mcp655 and all variants DO NOT require active cooling. i have had my loop running for months at a time without negative effect. the DDC series and mcp350/355 series however is reccomended to provide them with VENTILATION especially on the motor side. the use of petras gel is NOT reccomended as the pumps can generate enough heat to melt the gel thereby causing a short in the pump.

5)if using any AC pump (such as HYDOR/eheim) it is reccomended that you also purchase a starter relay so that the pump will function with the PC on/off cycles


----------



## SirKeldon (Mar 10, 2008)

intel igent said:


> 1)dont use a single 120 rad for anything OTHER than mosfets/nb/sb. even thats pushing it with the newer chips.
> 
> 2)the money you will spend on a thermochill 120.1 will get you a VERY nice swiftech 120.2 maybe a 120.3.
> 
> swiftech make the best price/performance rads.



Interesting, i'm just cooling my CPU ... that makes me think i'd make place for a 120x2 rad anywhere i can, i'll try my best cause i think a 120x2 rad will ruin my backwards PCI connections, at least, Audigy4 Pro ones and i need them to play guitar on the PC so i'll investigate. Actually this BlackIce GTS120 is performing as i expected, but if you say 120.2 ... 120.2 will be better  sure to go to Swiftech and not to HWLabs? their prices are also good and the level of performance is also in the level.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 10, 2008)

intel igent said:


> 1)
> 4)D4/D5 mcp650/mcp655 and all variants DO NOT require active cooling. i have had my loop running for months at a time without negative effect. the DDC series and mcp350/355 series however is reccomended to provide them with VENTILATION especially on the motor side. the use of petras gel is NOT reccomended as the pumps can generate enough heat to melt the gel thereby causing a short in the pump.



I am going to respectfully disagree with you here.   I've had my pump for well over a year and know point blank that if there was no active cooling it WILL get hot after extended period of time.  Even Gabe (the guy from Swiftech) even suggest that pump fail can happen do to heat.  Therefore, it's implied to actively cool the pump.


> Yes, one can normally expect somewhat less reliability from a pump that spins faster and heats up more (DDC2/MCP355).


Post

Not sure what kind of gel Petras sells


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 10, 2008)

Oke i am trying too understand this,

If you have a high restriction block, you need a high pressure pump.

The pressure is like this, 3,8 mHead for a DDC 1T.

But it has got nothing too do with the flow rate, like 400Liter/Hour

But how do you tell wich is a high restriction block and wich is not?.

And is a Laing DDC-1T a high pressure pump?.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 11, 2008)

[MD]Phantom said:


> Oke i am trying too understand this,
> 
> If you have a high restriction block, you need a high pressure pump.
> 
> ...



In most cases a decent review will tell which WB has the most pressure.  

A Laing DDC-1T pump provides roughly 12.14ft of head.  While a D5 provides 11ft of head.  If memory serves me you need more at least 9ft of max head in order to deal with most blocks.  But it's been awhile since I last researched that.  That may have changed since I last researched that though  (take with a grain of salt for now).   I recall that a D5 (although it offers slightly lower max head then 350/355 with modded tops) does the job good enough for most water blocks.


----------



## intel igent (Mar 11, 2008)

@ eastcoast : your link/s proves what? the heat generated by running a D4/D5 for ANY extended period of time DOES NOT require active cooling. please do not start myths and make false claims.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 11, 2008)

intel igent said:


> @ eastcoast : your link/s proves what? the heat generated by running a D4/D5 for ANY extended period of time DOES NOT require active cooling. please do not start myths and make false claims.



No, I am not starting myths nor made any false claim.  The link is self explanatory.  And, because I had the pump for some time I can offer my personal experience with it. Besides, offering a bit of caution can go a long way when you water cool 

However, lets look at the PDF of a D5 (for example):


> The pump has an integrated *over-temperature safety device* that
> shuts the pumps electronics off *when reaching the temperature
> limit of +203° F*, as a complete shutdown of the pump may result
> in adverse effects on a circulating system. *Prior to this, the
> ...


PDF


Lets look at a DDC-3.2 (for example):
A DDC-3.2 has a Max. system temperature 140° F. PDF

Basically, regardless of how the pump heats up, if you want it to operate at it's full potential it's best to keep it cool.


----------



## Wile E (Mar 11, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> No, I am not starting myths nor made any false claim.  The link is self explanatory.  And, because I had the pump for some time I can offer my personal experience with it. Besides, offering a bit of caution can go a long way when you water cool
> 
> However, lets look at the PDF of a D5 (for example):
> 
> ...


My DDC-1's never shutdown, even under the abuse of cooling a TEC, and I think I know why. My rad is always after my blocks. The rad is the last thing in the loop before the res. So my pumps are always getting water that's already cooled.

Even after being on for the last 48hrs straight, my DDC-1 isn't even warm to the touch.

I should note that there is no airflow on the pump at all. My setup isn't in a case, it's running on top of a table. lol.


----------



## DOM (Mar 11, 2008)

ive been folding for like 3days and my pump isnt hot or warm and its after the blocks, with 1.552 volts  room at 78F


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 11, 2008)

Ok fellas a question again.

I have a 2X120 Danger Den Black Ice radiator, and I am purchasing 4 of these for a possible push/pull setup.
Im going to experiment with the fan setup a bit!

I want to put my rad on top with 4 "risers" to get the fans off the top of the case, and really dont like the looks of the radbox.

Is there a kit to get "legs" to support the rad a couple of inches above the case?
Im assuming it is going to be a creative trip to the Hardware store!


----------



## DOM (Mar 11, 2008)

yeah more then likely your going to the hardware store

and the screw are 6-32 the thread I think you need and some nylon spacers

I used the nuts that come with the screws to hold down the fans cuz they where lil to long but I think they make 3" that whould be what your looking for cuz you wanted at least 2" of clearance


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 12, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> Ok fellas a question again.
> 
> I have a 2X120 Danger Den Black Ice radiator, and I am purchasing 4 of these for a possible push/pull setup.
> Im going to experiment with the fan setup a bit!
> ...



I would take the rad with you to the hardware store.  That way you can get an idea of how long a screw you need  
I've seen people use long standoffs (just like the ones for your motherboard tray).  You can check with you local hardware store to see if they sell it and it threads properly onto the rad.


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 12, 2008)

Off to the hardware store I go then. I have some ideas already , just didnt know if there was a pre-packaged solution. Thanks fellas


----------



## intel igent (Mar 12, 2008)

eastcoast do you actually think we would see those kind of temps in W/C? not likely, unless of failure i could NEVER see temps getting that high

ive had my rig up and running for over 6mths straight and my idle temp would only be ~3c higher than the first day i fired it up.

dont take advantage of the n00bs


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 12, 2008)

intel igent said:


> eastcoast do you actually think we would see those kind of temps in W/C? not likely, unless of failure i could NEVER see temps getting that high
> 
> ive had my rig up and running for over 6mths straight and my idle temp would only be ~3c higher than the first day i fired it up.
> 
> dont take advantage of the n00bs



I have been water cooling for a few years now (since owning a P4).  Based on your posts I have never had idle temps go up 3C just on it's own like that (keeping in mind ambient temps).   I believe you are doing a disservice when you advise anyone against some level of caution when water cooling.   Regardless of how this makes you feel I stand by my decision on the use of caution (IE actively cooling the pump).  Therefore, there is no need to continue arguing about this we simple agree to disagree.


----------



## DanishDevil (Mar 12, 2008)

Hey guys.  I'm thinking of taking the watercooling plunge, but I want to start off slow.  I want just a CPU setup right now, and I'll be adding a full coverage 3870 block in the future, and maybe a NB block too.  I want to see what I can get out of my 5000+BE(s), because the cooler I've got now has them in the mid 50's at 1.5V.  What would your recommendations be?  I want to try to spend somewhere under $200 on the CPU setup for now.

Restrictions:


Dual 120mm Radiator (I'll attach it on the interior of my case, and cut for a second one later)
Socket AM2
I want it quiet - I should be able to sleep with it under my bed
I like the look of bare copper, so a plexi topped block would be sweet!

Thanks in advance guys.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 12, 2008)

DanishDevil said:


> Hey guys.  I'm thinking of taking the watercooling plunge, but I want to start off slow.  I want just a CPU setup right now, and I'll be adding a full coverage 3870 block in the future, and maybe a NB block too.  I want to see what I can get out of my 5000+BE(s), because the cooler I've got now has them in the mid 50's at 1.5V.  What would your recommendations be?  I want to try to spend somewhere under $200 on the CPU setup for now.
> 
> Restrictions:
> 
> ...



Here is one person's experience with a plexi top:
Post

Suggestion:
-Swiftech MCR220-QP
-FuZion
-7/16" ID Tubing
-MCP655 Pump
-2, 120mm fans.  You can pick which fans you want here as there are few to choose from.
You could go with 120mm Scythe SFF21E S-FLEX™ Case Fan (49 CFM/20.1 dBA)
OR
Yate Loon D12SL-12 Case Fan - Black (47 CFM, 28 dBA) which are cheaper

What I haven't included so far is the use of either a reservoir or T-line as I am not sure which way you want to go.  You are going to have to decide on that one.


----------



## DanishDevil (Mar 12, 2008)

I'm going to use a reservoir, as I've read that bleeding a t-line is a b*tch.  I'll probably grab the Swiftech micro res for now.

I'll be powering my radiators with ACRyan fans rated at 77CFM at 29dBA turned down to my liking.

I've read really good things about the ThermoChill PA 120.2 (and .3) Radiators.  How do they compare to the Swiftech QP's?

And is that tubing specifically chosen, or will any 7/16ID tubing work?  I might try to pick up some of the smaller stuff locally so I don't get gouged with shipping costs.  And is Sidewinder based in California?  I hate having to pay tax online...


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 12, 2008)

DanishDevil said:


> I'm going to use a reservoir, as I've read that bleeding a t-line is a b*tch.  I'll probably grab the Swiftech micro res for now.
> 
> I'll be powering my radiators with ACRyan fans rated at 77CFM at 29dBA turned down to my liking.
> 
> ...



ThermoChill PA120.2 cool better then the Swiftech.  I offered the Swiftech as it's cheaper but should perform a little better then HW when low powered fans are used, restriction, etc.  Take a look at this post for comparison.  

I only provided that ID/OD tubing size as an option.  You can go with what you like.  However, that tubing size does offer the best bend radius when using 1/2" barbs  (when I looked it up).  Also, someone did a review of tubing sizes and came to the same conclusion found here.


----------



## Wile E (Mar 12, 2008)

Man, I gotta get me some PA120.3 rads. lol.


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 12, 2008)

I still wasn't sure about the head needed for a EK supreme.

So i sen't them an e-mail too ask, this is they'r answer.

Hi!

I suggest about 1,7 m is enough.

Best regards, Eddy

So that's a lot less than i tought around 5.58 feet if my calculations are right.

Considering that there will also be a radiator and reservoir be in the loop, the pump should produce a bit more.

But i think a WCZ Laing DDC-1T Pump would be enough. 1 for each loop.

I could also overvolt them to a plus.

Technische Daten

- Spannung: 12 Volt 
- Nennleistung: 10 Watt 
- Förderleistung: ca. 400 Liter/h 
- Druckleistung: 3,8 mHead 
- Länge o. Anschl.: ca. 62 mm 
- Breite: ca. 62 mm 
- Höhe: ca. 38 mm 
- Strom-Kabellänge: ca. 500 mm 
- Gewicht: ca. 220 Gramm 

Cost 48.69 Euro each.

So i made up my mind two of these should be enough, i think.

Maybee i'll make a different top for them like explaind on this and other forums, then it will be oke.


----------



## intel igent (Mar 12, 2008)

@ MD : those pumps will be fine with or without aftermarket tops in your proposed loop

@ eastcoast : yes my loop after running steady for months will raise its idle by ~3c. try yourself on your loop you will see what i mean, similar to "idling" a car. within regards to your comments on pump heat/cooling all i can say is :shadedshu some active cooling COULD be beneficial for persons using DDC style pumps in confined spaces, but NOT ALL pumps require active cooling. 

anyone new to aftermarket cooling (whatever it may be air/water/exotic) have a look here as well for further info

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=10


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 12, 2008)

Finally, i then have al the info i need.

Solution,

1 Loop EK Supreme, Thermochill PA120.2, Thermaltake Aquabay M3, Laing DDC-1T.

2 Loop ( Gpu block ) Thermochill PA120.2, Thermaltake Aquabay M3, Laing DDC-1T.

Thank you al for the info, im very gratefull.

When i have the setup completed, ill post my information about the WC.


----------



## Grings (Mar 12, 2008)

Are you sure about the aquabays?, they look like they have captive thin hose connectors (based on this review on them), have you looked for others with regular G1/4 threads (i assume by you using Thermochills that you'll be running either 7/16 or 1/2 hose)


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 12, 2008)

I see you are right, damn.

Oh well ill start googling again.

Thanks.


----------



## intel igent (Mar 12, 2008)

[MD]Phantom said:


> I see you are right, damn.
> 
> Oh well ill start googling again.
> 
> Thanks.



swiftech mc-res


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 12, 2008)

[MD]Phantom said:


> I see you are right, damn.
> 
> Oh well ill start googling again.
> 
> Thanks.




Laing DDC w/ Petra'sTech DDCT-01s Top Combo
Max. Head Pressure: 18.91 ft (5.76m)
Max. Discharge: 246.6 GPH (933.5 LPH)

Laing DDC-3.2 (18W)/Swiftech MCP355
Maximum Head: 15 ft (4.5 m)
Maximum flow:  ~ 120 GPH (454 LPH)

Swiftech MCP355 w/Custom Delrin DDC Pump Top
Maximum Head: 12.92 ft (3.94m)
Maximum flow:  ~ 251.4 GPH - (951.65 LPH)

AquaXtreme 50Z-DC12 Inline 12V DC Pump 
Maximum Head: 11.81 ft. (3.6 m)
Maximum flow: ~ 185 GPH (700 LPH)

Laing D5 Vario/Swiftech MCP655
Maximum Head: 11.48 ft. (3.35 m)
Maximum flow: ~ 317 GPH (1200 LPH)

Eheim HPPS i - 12v DC
Maximum Head: 10.17 ft (3.1m)
Maximum flow:  ~ XXX GPH 

Hydor SELTZ L 45 II Water Pump
Maximum Head: 8.9 ft (2.7m)
Maximum flow:  ~ 950 GPH 

Danger Den MAG II - LE
Maximum head: 8.2 ft (2.5m)
Maximum flow: 567 l/hr (150 GPH)

Danger Den CSP-MAG 12V DC Pump
Maximum head: 7.545 ft 2.3 M 
Maximum flow: 9 l/min (143 GPH) 

Hydor SELTZ L 35 II Water Pump 
Maximum Head: 6.6 ft (80 inches)
Maximum flow:  ~ 450 GPH 

Thermaltake P500 12V Pump (CL-W0132)
Maximum Head: 5.9 ft (1.8m)
Maximum flow:  ~ 500L/h

This is all I could find on some of the pumps used so far.  I am not sure what is available in your area.


----------



## DaMulta (Mar 12, 2008)

F water I'm buying a phase LOL.


----------



## intel igent (Mar 12, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> F water I'm buying a phase LOL.



traitor!

j/k  that would be sweet if you got hooked up with a phase


----------



## DanishDevil (Mar 12, 2008)

Got a few more questions:


Any reason to not get this pump over the regular MCP655?  Is this one not adjustable?
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpuw.html
How exactly are pump relays set up and what's the purpose of them?
With the DTek Fuzion, should I get the nozzles? (I assume yes).
With the Swiftech Radiator, should I get the Swiftech or DTek High Flow 1/2"ID Barbs?


----------



## DOM (Mar 12, 2008)

DanishDevil said:


> Any reason to not get this pump over the regular MCP655?  Is this one not adjustable?
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpuw.html
> 
> ...



well at xtremesystems theres a test that the MCP655-B set at 4 but shows to be lower to the MCP655 with the nob that goes 1-5 its only $10 more for the Swiftech MCP655 

pump relays idk I dont use one just the 4pin to the psu 

on the nozzles yes for the washer that it comes with and it depends how many blocks your going to have in the loop to which one to use


----------



## DanishDevil (Mar 12, 2008)

Well there's an option on Sidewinder Computers to add a nozzle kit to the Fuzion for like $7.

And I posted a few more questions ^^


----------



## DOM (Mar 12, 2008)

the DTek


----------



## DaMulta (Mar 12, 2008)

Do nozzle kits really work?


----------



## DOM (Mar 12, 2008)

yes


----------



## DanishDevil (Mar 13, 2008)

One more question...maybe more later who knows 

How much liquid will I need for my system?  I want to give the Feser One UV Black coolant a try with my color scheme.  They come in 1L bottles.  I'm just gonna have the Fuzion, Swiftech Dual QP, MicroRes, and tubing.  I'll buy more if need be for when I get a GPU/NB block.

PS: Here's my order.  Hopefully I can grab it soon 



> (10) Tygon R3603 7/16in. ID 11/16in. OD Laboratory Tubing # AAC00034
> $26.00
> 
> Feser One F1 Cooling Fluid - UV BLACK - 1 Liter
> ...



Total shipped: $277.28


----------



## DOM (Mar 13, 2008)

> 10 Tygon R3603
> 7/16in. ID
> 11/16in. OD




everything is 1/2  

yeah one 1L should work


----------



## DanishDevil (Mar 13, 2008)

I'm going with 7/16ID tubing, per Eastcoasthandle's recommendations, and reviews.



> 7/16" ID, 11/16" OD. Offers the best water flow, best bending radius and smaller foot print then other tube sizes. This is 1" smaller then 1/2" ID 5/8" OD tubing. This allows for the greatest bend radius and reduces the hindrance of airflow in the case. You can go smaller if you like. Just make sure you buy the barbs that the same size of the ID (Inner Diameter) of the tubing. Tubing 7/6" ID will fit 1/2" barbing because Tygon tubing is a bit more gummy then other tubing. As a rule of thumb always get more then you need. I usually get 10' to be safe but that's for my PC, yours may vary.


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 13, 2008)

intel igent said:


> swiftech mc-res




I have looked at the swiftech reservoir but they have a little temperature issues in bigger watercooling installations as it seems.

So i have decided too go with two XSPC 5.25 bay Reservoir's.

Only 1 question left, how about the size for the fittings and tube?.

1/2 or 3/8.

Al the other hoses you can buy around here have smaller inner diameters.

And how much millimeter or mm is the size of the tubes, because in the netherlands they do not work with inches.......


----------



## intel igent (Mar 13, 2008)

6/7mm = 1/4"

9/10mm = 3/8"

12/13mm = 1/2"

a reservoir has no effect on temps.


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 13, 2008)

Here is the review, witch is about the swiftech micro reservoir.

http://www.rbmods.com/Articles/Swiftech/Mcres_micro/1.php

Testing:

Our testing results show that you get a very quiet system with this tank, it has a type of design that makes it run very quiet you don't get as much bubbles and air which usually make the noise. Temperature wise we had some issues as we ran it with our testing rig. We have a custom built system with this tank, Maze 4 , BlackIce Extreme, 2 fans at 5V on rad, Eheim 1048. The CPU that this system cools is a Intel P4 3,8 GHz. With idle temperatures we were up at 50C as the ambient temperature was up to 24C today. Under load we ran between 55-57C which is quite high, comparing this all to a bigger tank we had a 7 degrees higher in idle mode and 10 degrees higher in full load. As we see the small amount of water heats up a bit faster than with a bigger tank as we ran the fans on low speed to keep the system quiet. 

Conclusion:

It's a very small tank and this would probably do awesome in a barebone system but for a bigger rig I don't think this is the best choice. I think I covered most of the important facts in the testing part so all I can really say is that this is a nice little tank even though I had some problems mounting it and with a bigger system it has some temperature issues. I want to give this 3 out of 5 for the size and quality on it. 

Pros:

+ Size
+ Quality
+ Two sizes of tubing

Cons:

- Hard to mount with the screws in most cases
- Temperature issues


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 13, 2008)

Interesting review.  I use the Cyclone 120.  However, this is a very large reservoir and would normally mount were the rad box would go.  Not everyone would have the room for it.


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 13, 2008)

Hmmm don't think it would fit me no, i already found interesting reservoirs.

The XSPC 5.25 bay reservoir.

http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=42&products_id=216

and the reviews i read about it where good too, and i like seeing the water so i can check it without having too crowl under my desk.


6/7mm = 1/4"

9/10mm = 3/8"

12/13mm = 1/2"

When i read this i get the feeling that bigger tubes is better?, or is there a level in wich the tubes become too big and the pressure wil drop too much.( i hope this does not sound too noobish)


----------



## DaMulta (Mar 13, 2008)

Persoanly east I think the Dangerden res is the pick for me.
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=53&cat=27&page=1





Who uses all of their bay spots? Perfect place to put it IMO.



or what [MD]Phantom just posted above.


----------



## DanishDevil (Mar 13, 2008)

I was thinking about having a lot less water with the micro res too, and I'm going to have at least 3 if not 4 free 5.25" bays in my system.  I'm not sure what I want to do with them yet, but I'm gonna get the MicroRes to start.

One reason I think those guys had that result was that they are using very low powered fans in their rig, and they are probably not really cooling the water that much.  I would be willing to wager that their water sitting in their reservoir probably cooled as much as the radiator cooled it, and that's why they saw the rise in temps.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 13, 2008)

I agree, a bay res would be best for most PCs.


----------



## DaMulta (Mar 13, 2008)

BUT the one that you use would be easier to fill. The bay units collect plenty of bubbles when filling, making it a pain the ass sometimes.


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 13, 2008)

Check this review and maybee you'll change youre mind.

http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews.php?type=3&id=98&page=1&desc=xspc_plexi_bay_reservoir__black_


----------



## intel igent (Mar 13, 2008)

@ [MD] : it is a moot point because your load temps will always be the same regardless of reservoir size.

eg: my temps wont change at all if i switched from a T-line to a reservoir

reservoirs are a personal choice thing  the swiftech just happens to be the most widely used


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 13, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> BUT the one that you use would be easier to fill. The bay units collect plenty of bubbles when filling, making it a pain the ass sometimes.



Yup, that's why I stopped using the bay res.


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 13, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> I agree, a bay res would be best for most PCs.







EastCoasthandl said:


> Yup, that's why I stopped using the bay res




It is just me or??????


----------



## DaMulta (Mar 13, 2008)

what he is saying that the bay is the easiest to use, because there is a place for it in almost all pcs.

Where the one he is using is better, but a harder place to find to place it at.


----------



## DanishDevil (Mar 13, 2008)

Quick question:  Is there a backplate for AM2 with the Fuzion that I should look into getting, or is what comes with the block sufficient?


----------



## DaMulta (Mar 13, 2008)

I used my old backplat that came with the AM2 motherboard.

Works great.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 13, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> what he is saying that the bay is the easiest to use, because there is a place for it in almost all pcs.
> 
> Where the one he is using is better, but a harder place to find to place it at.



I try not to transfer my experience regarding the bay res onto others as they have had more success with it.


----------



## DaMulta (Mar 13, 2008)

Ok


----------



## [MD]Phantom (Mar 14, 2008)

So you had some BAD expirence with them right?.

Well i always mention BAD expirereances to poeple if it is regarded too the hardware or software.

If it is more like personal feelings for the hard or software i do also but with the information that I did not like it, not that it is faulty in general.

Because if the other just does not know, it might offer him some help and assistence, if i tell him my expiriences about the item.

Nevertheless ill go for the bay's.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 15, 2008)

[MD]Phantom said:


> So you had some BAD expirence with them right?.
> 
> Well i always mention BAD expirereances to poeple if it is regarded too the hardware or software.
> 
> ...


Please read post 229 for an explanation, thanks!


----------



## v1Powered (Mar 20, 2008)

Whats up guys, just surfing through the forums as usual figured Id post a link to my setup...
http://www.techpowerup.com/gallery/1436.html

All specs are in the gallery page!


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 21, 2008)

v1Powered said:


> Whats up guys, just surfing through the forums as usual figured Id post a link to my setup...
> http://www.techpowerup.com/gallery/1436.html
> 
> All specs are in the gallery page!



Nice setup, thanks for sharing


----------



## jim2k (Mar 23, 2008)

hi can any one advise me on a good external water cooling kit?

thanks


----------



## intel igent (Mar 23, 2008)

jim2k said:


> hi can any one advise me on a good external water cooling kit?
> 
> thanks



whats the budget?


----------



## jim2k (Mar 23, 2008)

intel igent said:


> whats the budget?



£100 to £150???


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 29, 2008)

jim2k said:


> £100 to £150???


Sorry for the late reply, I am not familiar with pricing in your area however here is what I can offer:

-Thermalright LGA775 RM Retension Bracket
-D-Tek FuZion CPU WB
-D5 Pump or MSP655
-Swiftech MCR220 or MCR320 (if you can find a place for it)
-applicable tube clamps


You have to decide on what size tubing your want.  Be it 7/16" ID or smaller (for example).  Also, you have to decide on a T-line or Reservoir.  Personally I would go with a reservoir. Do you plan on water cooling the GPU as well?


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 31, 2008)

Has anyone tried the fatboy barbs yet?


----------



## intel igent (Mar 31, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> Has anyone tried the fatboy barbs yet?



havent tried them myself but i heard they are the flow kings of barbs


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 31, 2008)

Here is a review using a reducer


----------



## Wile E (Apr 1, 2008)

Man, I really want to get a Thermochill PA rad.


----------



## asb2106 (Apr 1, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> I try not to transfer my experience regarding the bay res onto others as they have had more success with it.



I have had good and bad experiences with bay reservoirs, I have a solid plastic single bay rez from sidewindercomputers now and it works great, before this I had a CrazyPC dual bay clear acrylic bay rez that worked good for about a month, and one day just lost its seal and spilt all its water along the front of my case.  The front bezel that was glued on failed and released all the water.  I have temps monitors in bios running, so it was ok, but I have to pull the CPU to reset he board to get it to work.  And a hell of a mess to clean in my p180!

So I have mixed feeling about them.  I would love to get another clear acrylic, I think they look awesome.  Im just really scared of it leaking again, and maybe taking other components with it.


----------



## oily_17 (Apr 1, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> Here is a review using a reducer



Thanks for the link,some good info there.Seems to be little difference in the two barbs used,only when you get over 3.5GPM, and  in a typical PC set up I dont think there should be any really determinable difference.

Will be getting a Thermochill-PA-120_3 for my new set up when I can find a D-Tek FuZion for sale in the UK,they are like hen's teeth to find at the moment.


----------



## intel igent (Apr 2, 2008)

should be some interesting stuff in the RAD world weve got the new fesser rads and the BI GTX's seem to be giving thermochill some competition

cant wait to see some reviews


----------



## Grings (Apr 2, 2008)

I like the GTX rads, but they're just so damn expensive here, it's £65 for a 3x120mm as opposed to £55 for a thermochill 3x, and the coloured ones cost even more (£84 for a chrome one) though they do look awesome, and the 4x120mm ones look mental (wheres the uberstacker coolermaster?)

any links to the feser ones?


----------



## domy85 (Apr 6, 2008)

Whats a good coolant thats lasts long and prevents corosion and algee the best for the switchtech h20-220 ultra?


----------



## intel igent (Apr 6, 2008)

domy85 said:


> Whats a good coolant thats lasts long and prevents corosion and algee the best for the switchtech h20-220 ultra?



hydrX and distilled 

@ grings : just google "fesser rads"


----------



## Dr. Spankenstein (Apr 6, 2008)

What is everyone's preferred method of cleaning their rads before installing?

I thought I had rinsed it pretty thoroughly with hot tap water, shaken like a madman, repeat 10X. Rinse 5x with distilled to remove and minerals from tap water flush.

I think I tried to get a little "fancy" with my flush and tried some Scrubbing Bubbles because I saw someone use it on XS. I was not about to use any vinegar, but Scrubbing Bubbles seemed to be a nice alternative. (Potentially some anti-algae properties.)

Maybe I didn't rinse well enough, but my Primoflex tubes are completely coated internally with a white (and when dry, powdery) substance. 

Could it be flux or something. Only other thing I did was added a couple extra drops of PT Nuke to the distilled. My copper is a little blackened now as well.

It's all apart awaiting my new mobo so thought I'd take the opportunity to clean it proper.

Any experiences/suggestions?


----------



## intel igent (Apr 6, 2008)

i use hot water, vinegar and CLR.

works for me 

i start with a soak in CLR, then flush with vinegar, then with hot water


----------



## Dr. Spankenstein (Apr 6, 2008)

Are those heater cores copper? 

Never thought of CLR (Calcium, Rust, Lime)! Great idea!

Ever had any clouding? My water was pretty milky when I dumped it.


----------



## intel igent (Apr 6, 2008)

yep, ma H/C is copper/brass and the swiftech is the same

i just make shure that i flush everything out REALLY well before re-assembling my loop

i use a vinegar bath for my blocks.

people say not to use CLR or vinegar for rads but its never hurt me so 

my tubes get the same milky build up on the inside but my loop was up for quite a long time (2+yrs), i was running 90% distilled with 10% antifreeze

i threw one of the tubes in a bucket with warm soapy water and it seems to take the stuff off, with help from an old toothbrush


----------



## Dr. Spankenstein (Apr 6, 2008)

Right on! Thanks for all the help!

Mine started to build up the scale about 2 months in. I must not have been very thorough in my rinse!


----------



## domy85 (Apr 6, 2008)

Dr. Spankenstein said:


> What is everyone's preferred method of cleaning their rads before installing?
> 
> I thought I had rinsed it pretty thoroughly with hot tap water, shaken like a madman, repeat 10X. Rinse 5x with distilled to remove and minerals from tap water flush.
> 
> ...




Ae you saying that primoflex hose has white stuff, or that was after you cleaned it? And its recommended to clean the radiator before installing?


----------



## Dr. Spankenstein (Apr 7, 2008)

It developed a white scale (like around faucets in the shower) from something leaching into the coolant (in my case-distilled water w/PT Nuke). I have yet to clean it out.

It is a generally accepted proceedure to flush your radiator thoroughly before installing since there is a lot of flux residue left from the manufacturing process. This is ONE of the reasons for cloudy tubes/water.


----------



## domy85 (Apr 7, 2008)

My old thermaltake bigwater system with a external radiator never had that problem. I ran it for months on end and it was always clear with no white or milky residue. Possibly the type of fluid is doing that?

Also i was reading through and i couldnt find a real sure answer on what to use to clean the new radiator if necessary that wont leave a milky residue. Hot water wont work?


----------



## Dr. Spankenstein (Apr 7, 2008)

Marci (owner of Thermochill) states that since the industry has moved to lead-free construction, manufacturers have changed to water soluable flux. So hot water is all he has suggested. Of course, everyone has their own ideas of what "should" work.

The fact is that vinegar will attack the copper. 

Maybe in a strange way you are making the walls of the tubes thinner and therefore more able to transfer heat quicker. (JUST A THEORY-DO NOT ACCEPT AS TRUTH!!)

Whatever you decide to use, the final steps is always to rinse thoroughly with distilled water! (A point I needed to pay a bit more attention too!)


----------



## domy85 (Apr 7, 2008)

Dr. Spankenstein said:


> Marci (owner of Thermochill) states that since the industry has moved to lead-free construction, manufacturers have changed to water soluable flux. So hot water is all he has suggested. Of course, everyone has their own ideas of what "should" work.
> 
> The fact is that vinegar will attack the copper.
> 
> ...



Oh it changed to lead-free, ok makes sense then.


----------



## asb2106 (Apr 7, 2008)

Dr. Spankenstein said:


> Marci (owner of Thermochill) states that since the industry has moved to lead-free construction, manufacturers have changed to water soluable flux. So hot water is all he has suggested. Of course, everyone has their own ideas of what "should" work.
> 
> The fact is that vinegar will attack the copper.
> 
> ...



Every time I take apart my system, I always just rinse the tubes and blocks under warm/hot water.  I use Fesser View addidtive with distilled water, and Ive never had build up or milky water.


----------



## Dr. Spankenstein (Apr 7, 2008)

I'm probably going to use some additive next time 'round! 

Got some free PC Chill with my last Danger Den order. Won't be enough for my loop. Sounds like you dilute yours with distilled?


----------



## asb2106 (Apr 7, 2008)

Dr. Spankenstein said:


> I'm probably going to use some additive next time 'round!
> 
> Got some free PC Chill with my last Danger Den order. Won't be enough for my loop. Sounds like you dilute yours with distilled?



I use 8 ounces of the additive and fill the rest with distilled.  Its just a corrosive blocker and adds color.  Next go around I am gonna do the large bottle of blood red.  Use only it and no water, only for the color though.  The stuff I use is great, it has worked great for me personally and all the systems I have done water in for the last 2 years


----------



## domy85 (Apr 7, 2008)

How about i use some thermaltake coolant i have left to flush it through a few times and do you just pour it through or how would you force presure through it?


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Apr 10, 2008)

What do you guys thing of this finding with that Thermochill Radiator?


----------



## Wile E (Apr 10, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> What do you guys thing of this finding with that Thermochill Radiator?



Doesn't bother me. They still work very well. Besides, that's a really tiny channel. Water chooses the path of least resistance. I somehow think that little channel doesn't receive much in the ways of water flow.


----------



## DanishDevil (Apr 10, 2008)

I think the resistance of going through there will be less than looping back and forth through the radiator...

fit says it's gotta be a hoax


----------



## Wile E (Apr 10, 2008)

Nah, I actually think that little channel would be more restrictive, otherwise the water would never get cooled, as it would just bypass the core of the rad.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Apr 10, 2008)

It's hard for me to make any opinion on it at this time.  I would have liked to view more photos from more angles.  Also, some concrete proof that the opening does in fact start/stop at the opening.  Since it's already cut open mind as well cut the top off to see if there is a bevel that leads from open open neck to the other.

This finding, if true doesn't change the fact that this rad cools better then my "other" rad(s) that I've tried.  What I would like to know if in any way that little beveled open can attribute to flow rates.


----------



## asb2106 (Apr 10, 2008)

I find that funny, I always joked with my friends that they had a tube across the enter/exit, because the flow rates were so much better.  

I think this is true, but I doubt I can talk my buddy into cutting up his rad


----------



## intel igent (Apr 10, 2008)

so if you closed that tube off imagine how much better it would cool due to ALL of the water passing through the core VS some bypassing the core and going directly to the exit


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Apr 10, 2008)

And here I thought that the wider neck with wider barbs with a larger filler was part of the reason for better flow rates.  I've always wondered why others like HW Labs and Swiftech didn't widen the openings.


----------



## DaMulta (Apr 14, 2008)

Bad bad bad leak night....

First on the order of business, why they used 3/8 instead of 1/2 on the 790i blows my mind. 2ed those adaptors they give just suck ass. I fought for at least 30 mins to stop the leak....while its going everywhere(reason to keep white shirts around....

Then after I finally fixed that one my mase4 is leaking like crazy down the video card. I tried some new tubing from Lowe's to see if it was easier to work with than my nylon. Lets just say the stuff they sell at frozen CPU and danger den is different. I got that leak fixed a little faster, but it doesn't stop the fact that my video card is now or was covered in liquid.

Now I am going to let this thing test run till tomorrow after noon, because I had to use tap water to fill in the gap of all the liquid I lost during this whole thing.'


My 8800GT was cleaned with half a bottle of rubbing alcohol, and is now setting in front of a fan. No more red was coming out after pouring it over it so I'm sure that it is all out.'



FUN STUFF


----------



## aspire (Apr 14, 2008)

How in the heck did you manage a leak that bad?


----------



## DaMulta (Apr 14, 2008)

The motherboard chipset is kind of hard to get to inside of the case.

The mase4 I normaly do not have to use faseners on, so when the leak started it really started.


----------



## intel igent (Apr 14, 2008)

Dr. Spankenstein said:


> Marci (owner of Thermochill) states that since the industry has moved to lead-free construction, manufacturers have changed to water soluable flux. So hot water is all he has suggested. Of course, everyone has their own ideas of what "should" work.
> 
> The fact is that vinegar will attack the copper.
> 
> ...



i dont soak my stuff for very long, in the CLR maybe 1/2hr. then i flush with hot water, vinegar (not soak), hot water. i run the hot water through it untill im satisfied its clean.

i dont reccomend soaking in anything other than water for extended periods of time


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Apr 15, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> Bad bad bad leak night....
> 
> First on the order of business, why they used 3/8 instead of 1/2 on the 790i blows my mind. 2ed those adaptors they give just suck ass. I fought for at least 30 mins to stop the leak....while its going everywhere(reason to keep white shirts around....
> 
> ...



Use your wife's/GF hair dryer and make sure you evaporate any possible water from every corner of the video card and the MB before you turn it on.  Water has a tendency to get under caps, mosfets and the ZIFF socket, etc (hmm do they still use the word ZIFF)


----------



## DaMulta (Apr 15, 2008)

I sit it in front of a fan for 15 hours or so....The system is back up, just like it was.


----------



## SirKeldon (Apr 16, 2008)

*Advice needed for a new improved loop*

My new rad and reservoir finally arrived!!! fit you're great man!!!! (EFFING CUSTOMS anyway!!! 13 days argh! had to tell you) ... and my case has been modded and prepared for the new and improved watercooling system as you can see here and mainly here. I'm telling you the complete parts of the future loop and also i have a few questions, as always 

- Enzotech SCW-1 Waterblock (EQUAL as D-Tek Fuzion, the interiors too, trust me)
- Hydor L20 (bringing 700LPH, so about 184 GPH or 3.1GPM)
- Swiftech MCR-220 (with 2 Delta fans pushing air through the rad, bringing 70CFM each) -new-
- HWLabs BlackIce GTS120 (1 fan -don't know which one yet- pushing air through the rad)
- Swiftech MicroRes -new-
- 7 feet of Tygon R-3603 (19-13mm) tubing -new-
- 1/2 liter of Feser Cooling Liquid Blue and 1 liter Acid Green coloured (thinking in test this last one)

Fans that could be used:

2 x SilenX iXtrema Pro Series - 120x25 - 72CFM
2 x Xilence (Blue-Led) - 120x25 - 68CFM
1 x A.C.Ryan (UV-led) - 120x25 - 77 CFM
1 x Panaflo FBH-12G series - 120x38 - 67 CFM

I thought about one loop and philbrown23 added another.

Loop 1:







Loop 2:






In the first loop i designed the only "hot tube" is the cpu > rad with the pump right before the block to improve flow. I thought it was the best option ... but philbrown23 told me to mount it as the second one, i could get better temps on the CPU and also keep the water cooled as well, fitseries3 also told me the second one was the best option ... but i'm afraid of killing the flow to the block. I've almost decided to mount it like they say but i wanted some more advice.

Thank you in advance! 

ps: feel free to comment about anything but the GTS120 position, can't be mounted vertical or at any other place right now 

ps(2): Martin's Flow Estimator recommended me 1.15-1.31GPM with this setup so i think i'm fine ...


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Apr 16, 2008)

SirKeldon said:


> My new rad and reservoir finally arrived!!! fit you're great man!!!! (EFFING CUSTOMS anyway!!! 13 days argh! had to tell you) ... and my case has been modded and prepared for the new and improved watercooling system as you can see here and mainly here. I'm telling you the complete parts of the future loop and also i have a few questions, as always
> 
> - Enzotech SCW-1 Waterblock (EQUAL as D-Tek Fuzion, the interiors too, trust me)
> - Hydor L20 (bringing 700LPH, so about 184 GPH or 3.1GPM)
> ...



I've already tried 2 rads like that and it's simply a flow killer, creates more fan noise, draws more current and uses more tubing then need be.  Temps only improved by roughly 1C (if that at all, I didn't document because my results were so abysmal).  This was when I decided to buy the PA120.3, for me temps under load were far better.  If I recall it was somewhere from 3C-4C difference.  I would just get a 3 fan rad or stick with a 2 fan rad.  Since you are only cooling the CPU for now I wouldn't worry about IMO.


----------



## SirKeldon (Apr 17, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> I've already tried 2 rads like that and it's simply a flow killer and creates more fan noise as well as draws more current.  Temps only improved by roughly 1C.  I would just get a 3 fan rad or stick with a 2 fan rad.  Since you are only cooling the CPU for now I wouldn't worry about IMO.



All the hard job i did for just 1º-2ºC? damn it!  anyway, for now i'm just cooling the CPU but i'm thinking in increase the loop within a few months, also the pump, i'm not worried about noises or current, i tested the airflow and it's good to each rad ... i'm decided to use the GTS120, just for a question of proudness you know, it's my very first mod ... but as i told in another posts, if the performance it's decreased cause the flow (1ºC better it's still increase and should be better on long load time periods) i'll remove the GTS120, but till that moment, that rad it's gonna be included.

Ty anyway mate! 

ps: also it would be SOOOOO hard to me to stick a 120.3 rad on my mid-tower case


----------



## asb2106 (Apr 17, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> I've already tried 2 rads like that and it's simply a flow killer, creates more fan noise, draws more current and uses more tubing then need be.  Temps only improved by roughly 1C (if that at all, I didn't document because my results were so abysmal).  This was when I decided to buy the PA120.3, for me temps under load were far better.  If I recall it was somewhere from 3C-4C difference.  I would just get a 3 fan rad or stick with a 2 fan rad.  Since you are only cooling the CPU for now I wouldn't worry about IMO.



well ok, how do you think this would apply to me?

I have 2 3870's with full cover bocks, and a apogee GT CPU block, I use a MCR320 and a MCR220 radiator.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Apr 17, 2008)

asb2106 said:


> well ok, how do you think this would apply to me?
> 
> I have 2 3870's with full cover bocks, and a apogee GT CPU block, I use a MCR320 and a MCR220 radiator.



Serial loop or Parallel loop?  Do you have a pic you can share?


----------



## asb2106 (Apr 17, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> Serial or Parallel?



one continous loop, 

Starts at the pump, then to the 320, then the 220, then the 2 video cards, then the proc, then the rez.

Im thinking of re-doing it with a better layout and adding another pump to the mix and breaking apart the radz.  Im not to happy with the temps on my proc, dont get me wrong, they are not horrible, just not ideal.

33 idle, 48 load.  Sometimes the cores can get into the 60s with a full load on the GPUs also.  

Its time I break apart the system anyways, my videocards are voltmodded now and dumping more heat in the mix than before.  So its time to re-do the water.  Ive been thinkin of adding TEC for the proc.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Apr 17, 2008)

asb2106 said:


> one continous loop,
> 
> Starts at the pump, then to the 320, then the 220, then the 2 video cards, then the proc, then the rez.
> 
> ...



I would add another pump for 2 rads of those sizes thus creating 2 loops. You should notice reduced temps by doing so.  Most 2/3 fan rads setups need their own pump from what I've seen so far.


----------



## asb2106 (Apr 17, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> I would add another pump for 2 rads of those sizes thus creating 2 loops. You should notice reduced temps by doing so.  Most 2/3 fan rads setups need their own pump from what I've seen so far.



Thanks for the tip!

my pump is a mcp355 with a petra top, the thing has some crazy head!  It has been very good to me, however, I still plan to add a pump and make 2 seperate loops


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Apr 17, 2008)

asb2106 said:


> Thanks for the tip!
> 
> my pump is a mcp355 with a petra top, the thing has some crazy head!  It has been very good to me, however, I still plan to add a pump and make 2 seperate loops



No problem just use the 220 for the CPU and the 320 for the 2 video cards and you should be good to go. Post your results when you finally get it done!


----------



## SirKeldon (Apr 17, 2008)

After talking with fitseries3 a bit more, he's telling to me (as the shop guy did) that it's best to have the bigger flow on my block ... so the 1st loop will be the best yet, running rad back to back.

Do you agree with my first intuition, fit's and shop guy recommendation?

I don't want to be draining and filling testing and/or searching my best setup now, since both tasks are a pain in the ass ... i prefer just to be sure with your advice and mount it and leave it for a few months.


----------



## Fitseries3 (Apr 17, 2008)

Pump > Cpu > Rad > Rad > Res > V
^--------------------------------


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Apr 17, 2008)

SirKeldon said:


> After talking with fitseries3 a bit more, he's telling to me (as the shop guy did) that it's best to have the *bigger flow on my block* ... so the 1st loop will be the best yet, running rad back to back.
> 
> Do you agree with my first intuition, fit's and shop guy recommendation?



What is bigger flow on my block?  In any case I stand by what I posted earlier.  Per my own experience I found better results with a single PA 120.3 then I did with a 2 fan and single fan rad.


----------



## Fitseries3 (Apr 17, 2008)

he's only cooling the CPU for now.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Apr 17, 2008)

Doesn't matter...besides it's counterintuitive to use 2 separate rads for just 1 cpu.


----------



## SirKeldon (Apr 17, 2008)

I wanted to mean the highest pressured flow point, which it's just the pump discharge to something, since i'm just w/c my cpu, the "bigger flow" it's suposed to be on pump->cpu to sure the good circulation through the block ... and i repeat, there's simply no room for a 120.3 rad, i have to "resign" with the stuff i have, ty all!


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Apr 17, 2008)

SirKeldon said:


> I wanted to mean the highest pressured flow point, which it's just the pump discharge to something, since i'm just w/c my cpu, the "bigger flow" it's suposed to be on pump->cpu to sure the good circulation through the block ... and i repeat, there's simply no room for a 120.3 rad, i have to "resign" with the stuff i have, ty all!



OK, I see thanks for the additional information and good luck with your project, the decision is ultimately yours


----------



## SirKeldon (Apr 17, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> OK, I see thanks for the additional information and good luck with your project, the decision is ultimately yours



NP dude, i know i should mount the rad vertical to achieve better temps and also that i'd need a better pump to sure good flow around the loop, but actually can't be done, no more budget at the moment.

Fitseries3 told me also in first instance to use just the MCR-220 rad cause the GTS120 hadn't enough room to blow all the hot air outta the case, after the modding now it has ... so it should work at maybe 50%-75% of efficiency as a exchanger ... the only thing i'm affraid (but also i think it's almost impossible) it's to get worse temps with MCR-220 + GTS120 back-to-back than just with MCR-220 alone just for a flow question cause the GTS120 it's not that big to bleed ... even it's a 1º-2ºC win with both, i think it's the best chance i can take right now since i'm just watercooling my cpu.

And if i'm wrong please tell me why ... i mean, i want to understand this as a thermodynamics thing, benefits or drawbacks of using the two rads back to back, how it's the flow stopped or how it affects to the total results of the CPU cooling.

I'll be very appreciated, ty


----------



## SirKeldon (Apr 18, 2008)

BUMP, any more ideas? i'm gonna mount the loop tomorrow and i'll be happy with a lil more of advice =)


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Apr 18, 2008)

Sorry about that, I didn't get your posts/PM until today.


----------



## SirKeldon (Apr 25, 2008)

Well, past friday at least i installed all the stuff, finally the loop it's designed as my first idea: res->pump->block->MCR-220->GTS-120->res

In all the webs i read, switching from a simple 120 radiator to a "normal" dual one (not GTX240 or TC PA 120.2) you should notice a 4-5ºC win in full tasks, but that's all ... in my case connecting the radiators back to back ... with a increase of 5ºC on ambient temp (past week we were at 19ºC, now my room it's at 24ºC) ... i still win 7-9ºC at full tasks (sometimes 10) in comparison to my previous setup (i did temp tests along the week, not just one ) so ... in my case, connecting radiators back to back has worked flawlessly, not a gain of just 1ºC as EastCoasthandle experience, i'm winning 3-5ºC constantly ... so i'm really happy finally

Hope this helps to anyone too  

ps: the idle temps are almost the same (maybe 1ºC better) than previous setup ... but since my ambient temp has upraised 5ºC in the last week i think it's pretty normal ... i'll gotta wait till next fall-winter to see my low 20's in idle =)


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Apr 25, 2008)

Please post your before and after idle and load screen shot temps.  Also provide your ambient temps during the observation.  Your post is a bit vague.


----------



## SirKeldon (Apr 25, 2008)

Unfortunately i don't have screenshots of the temps on the new setup but i'll tell you my results:

GTS120: 3,54Ghz @ 1.52V -> 10 hours Overdrive stability test -> ambient temp: 19-20ºC -> MB Temp: 25ºC -> max temps on core's 56/46ºC

MCR-220 + GTS120: 3,54Ghz @ 1.52V -> 8 hours and a half Overdrive stability test -> ambient temp: 21-22ºC -> MB Temp: 27ºC -> max temps on core's 46/37ºC

MCR-220 + GTS120: 3,54Ghz @ 1.52V -> 8 hours and a half Overdrive stability test -> ambient temp: 24-25ºC -> MB Temp: 30-31ºC -> max temps on core's 48/39ºC


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Apr 25, 2008)

SirKeldon said:


> Unfortunately i don't have screenshots of the temps on the new setup but i'll tell you my results:
> 
> GTS120: 3,54Ghz @ 1.52V -> 10 hours Overdrive stability test -> ambient temp: 19-20ºC -> MB Temp: 25ºC -> max temps on core's 56/46ºC
> 
> MCR-220 + GTS120: 3,54Ghz @ 1.52V -> 8 hours and a half Overdrive stability test -> ambient temp: 23-24ºC -> MB Temp: 29-30ºC -> max temps on core's 47/39ºC



What a shame, it would have been nice to have.  From the look of things, you went from a single fan rad to a dual fan + single fan rads.  My test was from a 3 fan rad to a 3 fan + single fan rad setup.  Thanks for sharing...


----------



## DaMulta (Apr 25, 2008)

East my buddy is getting the DD water box,D5 pump
TDX CPU block, 2xMAZE5GPU(I tell him he needs 3 because he has three cards but he took the 3ed one out)Dual 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir and 2 GTX240 rads..


I told him that he might need another pump, but how should he start his run. I'm thinking res, pump, CPU, rad, video cards, rad, and back to res. I think he might need to add another pump before the video cards for one loop.


----------



## SirKeldon (Apr 25, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> What a shame, it would have been nice to have.  From the look of things, you went from a single fan rad to a dual fan + single fan rads.  My test was from a 3 fan rad to a 3 fan + single fan rad setup.  Thanks for sharing...



Now i understand your lil win better, yes, my past setup was just the GTS120 ... now it's MCR-220 + GTS120, and as i see the things and reviews, it's running nearly as good as a "normal" triple 120 radiator (not GTX or PA 120.3) ... anyway, within a months i'll improve my pump too since the flow and pressure are clearly being affected.

And talking of pumps, clearly the D5 is your favourite choice, but i think it adds too much heat to the fluid with its 24W (in my setup the block it's the first element right after the pump) ... and watching the custom LC tank CyberDruid was building i saw the AlphaCool AP1510  which delivers till 6m of head pressure (19 feet) and 1500LPH (~396GPH) with a tiny power consumption of 17W ... so ... which one to choose? i'm looking for 1200LPH or more with a considerable head pressure and not too much heat added ... help me to decide


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Apr 25, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> East my buddy is getting the DD water box,D5 pump
> TDX CPU block, 2xMAZE5GPU(I tell him he needs 3 because he has three cards but he took the 3ed one out)Dual 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir and 2 GTX240 rads..
> 
> 
> I told him that he might need another pump, but how should he start his run. I'm thinking res, pump, CPU, rad, video cards, rad, and back to res. I think he might need to add another pump before the video cards for one loop.



I would go with a 2nd pump to be honest. From what you posted that orientation sound good if he's only using one pump.






SirKeldon said:


> _Now i understand your lil win better,_ yes, my past setup was just the GTS120 ... now it's MCR-220 + GTS120, and as i see the things and reviews, it's running nearly as good as a "normal" triple 120 radiator (not GTX or PA 120.3) ... anyway, within a months i'll improve my pump too since the flow and pressure are clearly being affected.
> 
> And talking of pumps, clearly the D5 is your favourite choice, but i think it adds too much heat to the fluid with its 24W (in my setup the block it's the first element right after the pump) ... and watching the custom LC tank CyberDruid was building i saw the AlphaCool AP1510  which delivers till 6m of head pressure (19 feet) and 1500LPH (~396GPH) with a tiny power consumption of 17W ... so ... which one to choose? i'm looking for 1200LPH or more with a considerable head pressure and not too much heat added ... help me to decide



Your post is a little hard to read/understand so for the first part I cannot address.  As for your pump comment, all water pumps add heat at varying degrees. As far as the AP1510 goes I read that it requires a lot more then 17 voltage to get 6m head and it's noisy.  However, I have not found any reviews of this pump yet.


----------



## SirKeldon (Apr 25, 2008)

I was trying to say that now i understand better your little win of 1ºC connecting rads back to back ... i just changed the order on the "better" (spanish legacy) ... and as i always say, english it's not my primary language, not even my secondary, it's the third one and i don't have any official title, i just learned it at school and then music, series and more things ... so excuse my typos 

I suppose those 17W are produced under 12V, as the 24W of D5, sure are measured under 12V too ... and yes, i saw about the noise level but i didn't see the levels of D5 anywhere, do you have the dbA specs?

ps: my temp's post was wrong so i'm gonna edit it, i just noticed, the ambient temp of 24-25ºC as well as the 30ºC-31ºC on the MB was today ... i just confused data, gonna fix it.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Apr 26, 2008)

Do you use core temps or Real Temps to monitor your temps?  I Know core temps should work but I am not sure about Real temps.


----------



## SirKeldon (Apr 26, 2008)

RealTemp works better in new Intel's, specially Wolfdales and Yorkfields as far as i read (on XS and also in TPU) ... i always used Core Temp and since this february i'm also using CPUID Hardware Monitor which reports the same temps on cores as Core Temp does


----------



## Grings (May 9, 2008)

The new fuzion is available at some uk retailers now, has anybody seen any tests yet?


----------



## DanishDevil (May 9, 2008)

It's available at PetrasTechShop.  We've got a few links over @ TechFuzion about it.  There's one to a guy @ XS doing a comparison.


----------



## SirKeldon (May 9, 2008)

DD finally ... welcome to the club!


----------



## Wile E (May 10, 2008)

Little update on my setup. Still have the Fuzion, MCP-350 w/bitspower res top, and 1st gen BIX 360 on the cpu, but I added a second loop. Maze5, MCP-350, Microres, and an MCR120 on my 8800GT. Workin great so far. Loads to 39C on stock volts. Had it up to 45C on 1.42V under load.


----------



## intel igent (May 10, 2008)

got some pix Wile E?


----------



## Wile E (May 10, 2008)

intel igent said:


> got some pix Wile E?


lol. No. It's not in a case anyway. It's running on a tabletop. The mobo is attached to my Stacker 830's mobo tray tho. lol.

I'll dig up the camera and take pics if you really want. lol.


----------



## intel igent (May 10, 2008)

i love pix of naked PC's!


----------



## SirKeldon (May 10, 2008)

intel igent said:


> i love pix of naked PC's!



Pervert


----------



## intel igent (May 10, 2008)

SirKeldon said:


> Pervert



who me?


----------



## Wile E (May 11, 2008)

OK, as requested, naked pics. lol.

As you can see, the mobo tray from the Stacker actually makes a decent tech station. lol.


----------



## intel igent (May 11, 2008)

hi Wile E 

thnx for pix!

what you doinin with the G5 case?


----------



## Wile E (May 11, 2008)

intel igent said:


> hi Wile E
> 
> thnx for pix!
> 
> what you doinin with the G5 case?



Running my Mac G5 in it.  lol


----------



## EastCoasthandle (May 11, 2008)

OT: Wilie E what ever happened to that show (that pic on your desktop).  What was the name of it again?


----------



## intel igent (May 11, 2008)

Wile E said:


> Running my Mac G5 in it.  lol



it runs?  

be a nice case to mod.........


----------



## Wile E (May 12, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> OT: Wilie E what ever happened to that show (that pic on your desktop).  What was the name of it again?



Neon Genesis Evangelion. The original ended, but now there's a new series of movies coming out for it.

@Intel igent- Yep still runs. Got it for free, so I'll use it until the new versions of OS X won't run on it, then I'll probably throw Linux on it and use it as a server of some sort. I thought about modding it, but I have a Stacker to do that with.


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (May 12, 2008)

That g5 case dont half look like a lian li v1000 apart from the bit at te front/top,i guess lian li kinda stole the design.

Nice setup tho' wile E.


----------



## intel igent (May 17, 2008)

drip drip drip

wheres everyone?

what do you guys think about if we had a W/C case gallery?

http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?p=796174#post796174


----------



## asb2106 (May 19, 2008)

intel igent said:


> drip drip drip
> 
> wheres everyone?
> 
> ...



I think thats a great idea!  

I finally got some time to spend on my computer over the weekend, did some cable management and cleaned it up some - looking good!!


----------



## intel igent (May 22, 2008)

guess you and me are the only ones asb  i'd like to se some pix of the newly revamped rig


----------



## SirKeldon (May 23, 2008)

D-Tek Fuzion on the way, my Enzotech top cracked at the outlet part, it's still running cause i solved it partially with teflon tape but it's not too safe, no big leak though ... just a drop every several hours or less ... but it's like a car solved with tape ... can leave you stuck in the middle of the road ... so i ordered the fuzion. 

The good news is i noticed the leak one day or maybe two (i saw the res level too low) after starting and nothing failed ... cause when i checked the top of the video card was full of green but not liquid at all ... just the oily thing, also part of the block as well as the NB cooler. Luckily all my hardware is running flawless with no problems, definitely, Feser Cooling Fluid it's non-conductive cause it mixed with dust too ... and nothing happened, 10/10 for this liquid! 

And Intel_igent, you were right, Enzotech blocks are great performers but just too weak at the top part, less than 3 months old and cracked ... it's unacceptable, but well, the Fuzion will do the work and even better cause won't restrict the pressure that much ... besides that a DFI X38-2TR + Intel C2D E8400 are also on the way, say hi to huge clocking! 

I'll keep all of you informed


----------



## DanishDevil (May 23, 2008)

I don't wanna take my loop apart and go back to air


----------



## SirKeldon (May 23, 2008)

Do what you want my friend, but i'll be pleased to receive both things at same time ... anyway, it's up to you, i don't want to force you =)


----------



## EastCoasthandle (May 24, 2008)

Here is a review of Black Ice GTX vs Feaser TFC X-Changer
My only concern for this review:
-Mounting...Was the WB for the GTX remounted to make sure that the disparity in results weren't skewed 
-Pump...Would a better pump effect results
-Q6600 should have been OC to at least 3.6GHz.  At 2.4GHz you are not really testing the full capabilities of the radiator.  Big mistake IMO.


----------



## DanishDevil (May 24, 2008)

Thanks for the link.  I might bite the bullet and grab a triple feser rad.  I'd really love to be able to review one, though.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (May 24, 2008)

I also like their test of the Fuzion 2 as they add a GPU block into the test which results in a more realistic result for those of use who also use a GPU block.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (May 24, 2008)

SirKeldon said:


> D-Tek Fuzion on the way, my Enzotech top cracked at the outlet part, it's still running cause i solved it partially with teflon tape but it's not too safe, no big leak though ... just a drop every several hours or less ... but it's like a car solved with tape ... can leave you stuck in the middle of the road ... so i ordered the fuzion.
> 
> The good news is i noticed the leak one day or maybe two (i saw the res level too low) after starting and nothing failed ... cause when i checked the top of the video card was full of green but not liquid at all ... just the oily thing, also part of the block as well as the NB cooler. Luckily all my hardware is running flawless with no problems, definitely, Feser Cooling Fluid it's non-conductive cause it mixed with dust too ... and nothing happened, 10/10 for this liquid!
> 
> ...



Wow, sorry to read about that.  You should take it back for a replacement and either sell it here or on ebay.


----------



## SirKeldon (May 24, 2008)

Yeah, i'll try to do that, it's suposed to be under warranty so i should get a replacement, i'll see what i can do. Thank you for the support.

Btw, thanks for the link of the review, really impressive the new Feser radiators, almost as good as TC. Interesting =)


----------



## intel igent (May 27, 2008)

another enzo bites the dust :shadedshu

glad to hear your hardware didn't get damaged SirKeldon

did you get it sorted out or are you still waiting?


----------



## Cold Storm (May 27, 2008)

All right, got a question.... Waterblock for a 9800gx2???


----------



## Wile E (May 27, 2008)

DangerDen has one.

http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=336&cat=48&page=1


----------



## DOM (May 27, 2008)

Cold Storm said:


> All right, got a question.... Waterblock for a 9800gx2???



http://www.evga.com/articles/406.asp


----------



## Wile E (May 27, 2008)

DOM said:


> http://www.evga.com/articles/406.asp



From what I have heard, the EVGA block is made by DangerDen.


----------



## SirKeldon (May 27, 2008)

intel igent said:


> another enzo bites the dust :shadedshu
> 
> glad to hear your hardware didn't get damaged SirKeldon
> 
> did you get it sorted out or are you still waiting?



intel_igent, i'm still waiting for my new D-Tek Fuzion (DanishDevil sold it to me cause he's getting the v2, thanks zack!) ... should be here tomorrow or thursday, at least, the teflon tape it's doing a good job, i just lost about 2-3mm of liquid (microres) in almost five days on 24/7. And still all hardware is 100% functional though i'm running it with some paper towels.

When the Fuzion arrives, i'll took apart the Enzotech and i'll go to the store, these last days they seem so lazy even for picking up the phone, i call but nobody answers ... grrrrr ... and i don't know what i'll do cause for getting my money back time is over ... and i won't risk again with this specific model of Enzotech ... and neither i'd sell it, i don't want to fuck another circuits neither ... so i don't know if i'll ask for a new Enzo cause really i don't want it.

Any suggestions? Maybe as a decorative object? 

Thanks for the support!


----------



## Cold Storm (May 27, 2008)

Thanks Wile E. and Dom.. Now I just have to see if I want to keep this Max board, or go back to the Striker II board... I know I'm keeping the 9800gx2!


----------



## DOM (May 27, 2008)

Wile E said:


> From what I have heard, the EVGA block is made by DangerDen.


http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ekfucoekgx2s.html 

they dont look to much the same but 200-250  kind of hurts


----------



## Cold Storm (May 27, 2008)

DOM said:


> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ekfucoekgx2s.html
> 
> they dont look to much the same but 200-250  kind of hurts



Oh yeah it does! but, I guess its because I spent $650 on the card it self! The 3870x2's where around $150, I believe.... So I can see it being that much... Grr the price for water these days!


----------



## Wile E (May 27, 2008)

DOM said:


> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ekfucoekgx2s.html
> 
> they dont look to much the same but 200-250  kind of hurts



I have no way of confirming. it's just something I saw mentioned on OCN. Don't actually know if it's anywhere near true or not.

And nice find, I forgot about EK for a minute. That's the one I would go for, personally.


----------



## Cold Storm (May 27, 2008)

I can see the pricing being that much... But, I am for the EK...I just have to start buying it piece by piece...


----------



## intel igent (May 28, 2008)

@ SirKeldon : they should at LEAST give you a replacement block which you can then sell to re-coup your money 

IIRC EK, DangerDen, EvGA, Aquacomputer?? and Koolance have blox for the GX2's


----------



## DOM (Jun 1, 2008)

*Should I ?*

Im thinking of geting a Swiftech MCR320-QP and Swiftech MCR220-QP and a 2nd Swiftech MCP655 12v DC Pump 

for my loop im not happy with my cpu temps 

so would it be better to have two loops or just run them in one loop 

CPU, GPU, NB, SB are the things im cooling 

so should I just use the MCR320 for the CPU and MCR220 to cool the GPU, NB & SB ?

I would get ThermoChill but its $160 more over the Swiftech 

Cuz right now im running one loop with a PrimoChill Radiator Xtreme Series 360 

SO will it be an upgrade ?


----------



## intel igent (Jun 1, 2008)

i'd go two loops

CPU on the 220, GPU/NB/SB on the 320


----------



## DOM (Jun 1, 2008)

why the 220 on the CPU ? 

GPU only tops 45c on fur and CPU on prime on small fft

Im looking at lowering the CPU load temps also for beching 

thats why I wanted to use the 320 for the CPU cuz im thinking of taking out the SB off of water I just run it lowest volts setting lol 

but the NB is at 1.9v for benching and should be getting a new card to play with going to volt mod it but still waitting 

So it might just be CPU NB GPU to Cool and Im trying to get more out of the CPU cuz 480FSB is the most I can get out of it  idk if its cuz of temps or what cuz NB was 1.65v but after volt mod most is 1.9v and only got 40 more MHZ


----------



## intel igent (Jun 1, 2008)

difference between 220/320 for CPU only would be minimal, both temp + OC

220 will handle CPU easily

320 for the "hot" parts


----------



## DOM (Jun 1, 2008)

the cpu is the hot one  the CPU Temp gets to 51c at 75F room temp at 70F CPU at 48-50 

while the GPU droped 5C on load so do you think I should use the 320 on the GPU still


----------



## intel igent (Jun 1, 2008)

GPU/NB/SB will give off more heat than CPU only IIRC


----------



## DOM (Jun 1, 2008)

well for the NB temp idk whats it at  but then SB might just go back to air cuz even uping the volts It doesnt help the OC 

plus im thinking about it might just geting the 220 and keep the PrimoChill Radiator Xtreme Series 360


----------



## Cold Storm (Jun 1, 2008)

Throw up the PC Probe on the Asus board and you'll be all set on where your temps are right!


----------



## DOM (Jun 1, 2008)

Cold Storm said:


> Throw up the PC Probe on the Asus board and you'll be all set on where your temps are right!



it only reads the CPU temp and mobo temp what ever that is 

and it doesnt work any more mobo is unknow idk what happened but it still works lol


----------



## Cold Storm (Jun 1, 2008)

Do you have the latest drivers for the board? Have device manager find it and fix it for ya.. PC Probe, even if its not II, should still have the NB readings... I know RM's does and he's working on a 965 chipset


----------



## DOM (Jun 1, 2008)

Asus P5W DH Deluxe is 975


----------



## Cold Storm (Jun 1, 2008)

oops.. my mistake..So, your is older... but here is the most recent update for you... I hope its the right motherboard... to many P5b's! lol


----------



## DOM (Jun 1, 2008)

its newer but it doesnt have NB temps and none of the asus pc or ai suite work any more


----------



## intel igent (Jun 1, 2008)

have you tried everest?


----------



## Cold Storm (Jun 1, 2008)

DOM said:


> its newer but it doesnt have NB temps and none of the asus pc or ai suite work any more




that is some strange stuff! and Everest should allow you to check also.. Even the free version.


----------



## DOM (Jun 1, 2008)

lol it doesnt have a NB sensor only CPU and MB and I use Everest it doent have NB temps


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jun 14, 2008)

Interesting results when the PA120 challenges the 480GTX


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jun 14, 2008)

Here is a full review of the D-Tek Fuzion V1 vs V2


----------



## Wile E (Jun 15, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> Interesting results when the PA120 challenges the 480GTX



It doesn't seem to be challenging it to me. It dissipates almost twice as much heat with Ultra High speed fans. It's ahead of the PA with fan speeds 1350rpm and up. Considering they're both around the same price, I know which one I would choose unless space was a serious concern.


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Jun 17, 2008)

I should be in the club (not that one silly billys,i'm a man ) soon,with this setup.

D5 vario pump
Thermochill 120.2 rad
swiftech apogee gt cpu block
tygon 1/2" tube
T/line fill system

I will be adding an ek full cover block for my gpu too asap.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jun 24, 2008)

Wile E said:


> It doesn't seem to be challenging it to me. It dissipates almost twice as much heat with Ultra High speed fans. It's ahead of the PA with fan speeds 1350rpm and up. Considering they're both around the same price, I know which one I would choose unless space was a serious concern.



I don't think a plastic rad kit is suitable on the 480 and space (even for me) is a concern.  If there were some sort of metal bracket set that would allow for fan hole mounting it would be easier. Granted it's a great rad to have but you have to have a place to put it.


Edit:
Some 90 degree brackets from home depot just might work though. But who's ready for the Black Ice GTX 560







Someone draw this I think so I am not sure how accurate it is.  However it gives you an idea...


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jun 24, 2008)

tigger69 said:


> I should be in the club (not that one silly billys,i'm a man ) soon,with this setup.
> 
> D5 vario pump
> Thermochill 120.2 rad
> ...



  (sorry for the late reply )
Welcome to the club let us know when you are up and running.  And don't be afraid to ask questions.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jun 24, 2008)

Ok, I have to ask if anyone out there tried any of the fatboy barbs?  DD finally has them for thermochill radiators.


----------



## intel igent (Jun 24, 2008)

got some fat boy's/bitspower barb's on my maze5, they work mint


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jun 24, 2008)

intel igent said:


> got some fat boy's/bitspower barb's on my maze5, they work mint



Was it easier to bleed when you refilled your loop?  Any other noticeable differences?


----------



## Wile E (Jun 24, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> I don't think a plastic rad kit is suitable on the 480 and space (even for me) is a concern.  If there were some sort of metal bracket set that would allow for fan hole mounting it would be easier. Granted it's a great rad to have but you have to have a place to put it.


If space is a concern, then yeah, the PA120.3 is probably the better idea. But if you're anything like me, and run on an open bench, then I think the GTX480 is probably the better idea.


----------



## intel igent (Jun 24, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> Was it easier to bleed when you refilled your loop?  Any other noticeable differences?



barb's did not affect my refill time, still had to twist + tilt and lay the case to get all the air out 

they're slightly larger than regular barb's, due to their design they grip tubing really well

best method i've found to bleed TOP mount RAD

GTX480 with some high power fan's will definately beat out a PA120.3


----------



## oily_17 (Jun 24, 2008)

Ok I will be starting to set up my water system on the Maximus later this week.Here are the parts that are going in.

SwiftTech Micro Res
DDC 3.2
PA120.3
D-Tek CPU block
EK blocks for the NB,SB and VRegs
Masterkleer 7/16" Tubing
Will add GPU cooler later(when money allows)

I have a small question -as I will be cooling the CPU,NB,SB and VRegs,what would be the best way to run my loop?   ie-
RES >> PUMP >> RAD >> CPU >> NB >> VREGS >> SB >> RES

Or as I will be adding a GPU cooler later would there be any advantage/disadvantage of adding a Y connector after the RAD and have the CPU,NB and VRegs on one part and the GPU and SB on the other and then both back to RAD.
With the Y connector it might also help with routing tubing round the case as it will be a tight squeeze cooling everything.
Any other ideas on routing the tubes let me know.



EastCoasthandle said:


> Ok, I have to ask if anyone out there tried any of the fatboy barbs?  DD finally has them for thermochill radiators.



Will be using some on my pump and PA120.3, only they are the G1/4 thread with the adaptor for the Thermochill thread.


EDIT:This is the first time I have used this pump.Is it up to the job or would I be safer sticking with my SwiftTech MCP655


----------



## intel igent (Jun 24, 2008)

a Y will split your flow/pressure in half

loop order does not really matter it is best to have the shortest straightes run's possible


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jun 24, 2008)

Here are some photos of the Thermochill barbs which are G 3/8 thread














On the left is the regular barb for the Thermochill rad.  On the right is the fatboy barb.





Here are some photos of a regular barb which uses a G 1/4 thread.









On the left is the regular barb.  On the right is the fatboy barb.


----------



## Wile E (Jun 25, 2008)

I have the fatboys on my Bitspower pump top. Love those things. they seal so easily. I eventually want to replace all of my barbs with them.


----------



## DaMulta (Jun 25, 2008)

You might of just killed my plan east.....I was going to get a 480 rad but now I see the 560


I was going to use these fans on the 480
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7...rogrammable_LED_Fan_EF4-12.html?tl=g36c15s518

So It could say o.c.L .I. T
I thought it would be cool at a lan event.......







So for my 9800GTX Tri setup do you guys think I need to buy these?








http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=330&cat=34&page=1#tabs


----------



## Wile E (Jun 25, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> You might of just killed my plan east.....I was going to get a 480 rad but now I see the 560
> 
> 
> I was going to use these fans on the 480
> ...



Those fans don't push enough air for the GTX rads. You need high flow fans.


----------



## DaMulta (Jun 25, 2008)

Those would just be on the front high on the back
BUT
The 480 I bet already does a lot of damage even with low fan speeds ......I bet.


----------



## DaMulta (Jun 25, 2008)

They are not that bad tho
48.8 CFM 

Which is about what I run on the 240 because 74CFM is LOUD


----------



## Wile E (Jun 25, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> Those would just be on the front high on the back
> BUT
> The 480 I bet already does a lot of damage even with low fan speeds ......I bet.



The PA120.3 beats it with low speed fans. Read the link Eastcoast posted above.


----------



## DaMulta (Jun 25, 2008)

LOL by one degree, and then smokes it the rest of the time.


1 degree does not turn me away


----------



## intel igent (Jun 25, 2008)

CFM is pretty much useless, pressure is where it's at


----------



## Wile E (Jun 25, 2008)

intel igent said:


> CFM is pretty much useless, pressure is where it's at



Regardless, those fans won't be very good for rad use.

And D, you have to realize that test was with a dual core. The differences will be much greater with a higher heat load.


----------



## DaMulta (Jun 25, 2008)

Says Quad






My CPU is under deep freeze tho, the rad would just be for video cards.




Wile do you think I need those fittings? I think I do.....


----------



## Wile E (Jun 25, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> Says Quad
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Hmmm, must've been thinking of another review.

Anyway, yeah you should get something to connect the blocks together to make it easier. Koolance has some nice ones.


----------



## DaMulta (Jun 25, 2008)

will they fit?

I don't know about threadng.


----------



## Wile E (Jun 25, 2008)

I dunno. Haven't really looked into it yet.


----------



## MKmods (Jun 25, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> will they fit?
> 
> I don't know about threadng.


yes they fit 
http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=400

the prob is the ID of it.. if you are using the fat boys these are quite a bit smaller ID. Also Koolance uses very few threads so if there is a bevel on the video card coolers there wont be enough threads to grab.

(Koolance uses G 1/4" threads, lol just fewer of them)


----------



## cdawall (Jun 29, 2008)

subscribing building my 1st H2O setup


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jun 29, 2008)

cdawall said:


> subscribing building my 1st H2O setup



Welcome to the thread.  Let us know how things go!


----------



## cdawall (Jun 29, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> Welcome to the thread.  Let us know how things go!


i figure this would be the place to ask i think i fit to BIX 240 in the front of my case would fans-rad-fans-rad-fans work?


----------



## Wile E (Jun 29, 2008)

cdawall said:


> i figure this would be the place to ask i think i fit to BIX 240 in the front of my case would fans-rad-fans-rad-fans work?



You'd lose some efficiency. The air will pick up some heat from the first rad, and blow thru the second rad.


----------



## cdawall (Jun 29, 2008)

Wile E said:


> You'd lose some efficiency. The air will pick up some heat from the first rad, and blow thru the second rad.



so if i did do that it would be better to run the loop through the 2nd rad 1st?


----------



## DaMulta (Jun 29, 2008)

I would not tie them together in either case, but I see what you are saying just heat up one rad two times with the last one should be the coldest and then though the system.

It could work, you would just have to try and see.





What do you guys think of my idea lol

pump at 17v, then 3 gpu blocks, hits the 480 rad, then into another 17v pump, and finally going into a bay res before hitting the other pump again.


----------



## DOM (Jun 29, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> What do you guys think of my idea lol
> 
> pump at 17v, then 3 gpu blocks, hits the 480 rad, then into another 17v pump, and finally going into a bay res before hitting the other pump again.


 im planning on going res.>pump>rad>blocks>pump>res. or res.>pump>blocks>pump>rad>res.


----------



## MKmods (Jun 29, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> pump at 17v, then 3 gpu blocks, hits the 480 rad, then into another 17v pump, and finally going into a bay res before hitting the other pump again.


 My thought is if thats a 12V rated pump its lifespan is gonna be shortlived.


----------



## SirKeldon (Jun 29, 2008)

Since one month and a half my loop is like this: res->pump->block->double rad->single rad->res

In my case it was far better than one single rad, i won more than 8-10ºC with both together (back-to-back) in front to the usual 4-6ºC you're used to see when you change from a single to a double rad, and maybe i could run a cpu + gpu block's when i improve my pump.

Here's how i planned the loop:






The result with the new P45 mobo (i have to clean it all a lil bit as well as manage better the cables but this mobo is not the best for that, at least the "Pro" version):


----------



## Wile E (Jul 1, 2008)

MKmods said:


> My thought is if thats a 12V rated pump its lifespan is gonna be shortlived.



My thoughts exactly. Not only that, but 17V could possibly cause a bit of heat dump, negating any benefit of the higher pressure and flow.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jul 7, 2008)

SirKeldon said:


> Since one month and a half my loop is like this: res->pump->block->double rad->single rad->res
> 
> In my case it was far better than one single rad, i won more than 8-10ºC with both together (back-to-back) in front to the usual 4-6ºC you're used to see when you change from a single to a double rad, and maybe i could run a cpu + gpu block's when i improve my pump.
> 
> ...



Nice


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 7, 2008)

All right guys.. what are your thoughts on this matter?


----------



## intel igent (Jul 7, 2008)

MKmods said:


> My thought is if thats a 12V rated pump its lifespan is gonna be shortlived.



IIRC D5 are rated 12-24v



			
				WileE said:
			
		

> My thoughts exactly. Not only that, but 17V could possibly cause a bit of heat dump, negating any benefit of the higher pressure and flow.



IMO the added heat dump will be negligible in his situation due to the 480 RAD

@ sirkeldon : looking good man! nice and tidy 

@ coldstorm : look's like a good list, only thing's i'd change are the RAD (swiftech mcr-320) and the fitting's (DD/bitspower fatboy's). good choice of tubing it's pliabillity will make it easy to slide over 1/2" barb's 

not shure if that fan controller will work with those fan's....


----------



## cdawall (Jul 7, 2008)

my new parts list please critique 

cpu block: maze 4
pump: MCP655 variable (already have)
rad: hopefully dual BIX 240s (already have one)
res: Swiftech mini-res
barbs: Bitspower G1/4" 1/2" barbs all around
tubing: Tygon R3400 1/2in. ID 3/4in. OD (its the black kind)

i was also wondering is there anyway to water cool my mosfets?


----------



## DaMulta (Jul 7, 2008)

MKmods said:


> My thought is if thats a 12V rated pump its lifespan is gonna be shortlived.



It is a 12v but they show graphs on what the pump will do at 24v. So I think that it can take the extra v to them.


----------



## MKmods (Jul 7, 2008)

Does the extra flow lower the temps (because dosent increasing the Volts/speed also increase the heat dump of the pump)

One other thing I am trying to figure is the faster water flows the more surface friction there is.


----------



## DaMulta (Jul 7, 2008)

MKmods said:


> Does the extra flow lower the temps (because dosent increasing the Volts/speed also increase the heat dump of the pump)
> 
> One other thing I am trying to figure is the faster water flows the more surface friction there is.



It all depends on how big your run is. On smaller runs 17v could hurt you, but longer runs it could help you. If you rad is slowing the flow way down, running it faster can help temps as well.

It's something that needs to be played with to find out IMO.


----------



## MKmods (Jul 7, 2008)

thanks for the info


----------



## intel igent (Jul 7, 2008)

must take into consideration all of the variable's that affect temp (# of block's, size of RAD, amount of tubing, pressure drop, fan's, etc...)

you should be fine with your setup there DaMulta


----------



## cdawall (Jul 7, 2008)

hows this look i know i skipped the res but thats cause idk were the hell im going to put it


----------



## DOM (Jul 7, 2008)

cdawall said:


> hows this look i know i skipped the res but thats cause idk were the hell im going to put it



so are you going with a t-line ?

so your going to use two just for the cpu ?


----------



## cdawall (Jul 7, 2008)

DOM said:


> so are you going with a t-line ?
> 
> so your going to use two just for the cpu ?



i plan on a mini res i just dont know were to mount it and yes for now the rads will be just for the cpu but when i get some real vga's (on a 6200 now)


----------



## DOM (Jul 7, 2008)

what about next to the ram area by the mobo tray if theres space

or at the back like how I did


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 7, 2008)

Well here I come with a question. I have recently changed from using PC ICE to distilled water with an additive. My pump has since went from a low hum to a loud grind. I have tried, all for not, to get this thing quieted down.

So on to the question:

I need a new 110V pump. I'm currently using a Hydor Seltz and wouldn't mind using it again, but I assume there is better these days in the pump world. Please shoot out recommendations or tips/experiences!


----------



## DOM (Jul 7, 2008)

Distilled Water + Pentosin G11 + PT_Nuke is what I using going to Feser One soon but also used MCT-40 

I dont know about all the pumps but how long have you had yours did it start right after you changed ?


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 7, 2008)

DOM said:


> Distilled Water + Pentosin G11 + PT_Nuke is what I using going to Feser One soon but also used MCT-40
> 
> I dont know about all the pumps but how long have you had yours did it start right after you changed ?



the minute I turned it back on. I have also torn it apart , cleaned and reseated the impeller like 4 times too. I got the pupm used , and its been running 24/7 for me for around a year.


----------



## DOM (Jul 7, 2008)

well it might of worn out then 24/7 for a yr lol thats a long time 

cuz your do you want a DC or stay with AC Pump ? 

Do you know whats the Pump output  gal/hour


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 7, 2008)

http://www.overclockers.com/articles672/

I use the 110V pump as it was in a trade, but my loop is set up outside the case. Personally I dont care which. Its about performance and being quiet!

Also I pump about 15" straigt up, then its all downhill from there!


----------



## DOM (Jul 7, 2008)

so whats the price range ?


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 7, 2008)

Well I can get the direct replacement for this Hydor at crazyPC's for $50 + Shipping. Im not against paying more if the performance/sound level is worth the extra money!


----------



## DOM (Jul 7, 2008)

well idk about the Hydor SELTZ pumps but the Swiftech MCP655 gots more Maximum head
 10 ft and  50 PSI  vs the 6 ft and 32.5 PSI from the Hydor L30 

unless you want a Hydor SELTZ L 45 II Water Pump (950 GPH)


----------



## MKmods (Jul 7, 2008)

DOM said:


> well idk about the Hydor SELTZ pumps but the Swiftech MCP655 gots more Maximum head
> 10 ft and  50 PSI  vs the 6 ft and 32.5 PSI from the Hydor L30
> 
> unless you want a Hydor SELTZ L 45 II Water Pump (950 GPH)



are you sure about 50psi? (If its 50psi I  think its at 90V with a good tailwind) The 2 I got from DD were at best just ok, water barely came out so Ive been  Liang DDC ever since

Seen these?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6...V_Water_Pump_501280.html?tl=g30c107s155#blank


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 7, 2008)

DOM said:


> well idk about the Hydor SELTZ pumps but the Swiftech MCP655 gots more Maximum head
> 10 ft and  50 PSI  vs the 6 ft and 32.5 PSI from the Hydor L30
> 
> unless you want a Hydor SELTZ L 45 II Water Pump (950 GPH)



there is an L40 in the middle and I see a L45 with 925 GPH. So in your opinion those are best bang for the buck?

Edit: reading reviews and realizing they are right on 9 out of 10 things, I may as well try the Swiftech. 

Any other ideas b4 I take the plunge?


----------



## SirKeldon (Jul 8, 2008)

If money is not a problem i'll go with a Laing D5 instead of the Hydor L40, even i'm pretty satisfied after 5 months of my Hydor L20 ... the Laing seems more reliable besides the perfect sealed fittings not as the Hydor that pumps a lil bit of air everytime you disconnect it.


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 8, 2008)

Laing D5 over the Swifty? sorry for my noob moment...a bit of googling tells me the D5 and the swifty are the same pump!?!?


----------



## DOM (Jul 8, 2008)

MKmods said:


> are you sure about 50psi? (If its 50psi I  think its at 90V with a good tailwind) The 2 I got from DD were at best just ok, water barely came out so Ive been  Liang DDC ever since
> 
> Seen these?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6...V_Water_Pump_501280.html?tl=g30c107s155#blank



lol thats what it says on the specs show Maximum pressure 50 PSI (3.5 BAR) ?? 



sneekypeet said:


> there is an L40 in the middle and I see a L45 with 925 GPH. So in your opinion those are best bang for the buck?
> 
> Edit: reading reviews and realizing they are right on 9 out of 10 things, I may as well try the Swiftech.
> 
> Any other ideas b4 I take the plunge?


well that Hydor SELTZ pumps are aquariums pumps idk about the MCP655 but its the same as the Laing D5


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 8, 2008)

Everything I read says the Swifties are whisper quite with minimal vibration. Seems to be two things I couldnt say for my Hydor.

Well Im off in search of the cheapest reputable 665.

Thanks for all the help! (thanks are comming now)

@ MK I actuall saw a 1200GPH pump in my local pet smart....must of been cast Iron,,,it weighed a ton. But alas they wanted over $200 for it!


----------



## cdawall (Jul 8, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> Everything I read says the Swifties are whisper quite with minimal vibration. Seems to be two things I couldnt say for my Hydor.
> 
> Well Im off in search of the cheapest reputable 665.
> 
> ...



i have one but you cant have it


----------



## SirKeldon (Jul 8, 2008)

Yeah, i said Laing D5 cause you can purchase the same pump on different brands, such as Swiftech or DangerDen, even the original one, Laing.

Really the Hydor pumps are good, they're quiet (at least mine) and high reliable for the price they cost ... but normally they're not reliable and good such as a D5 (in the long time i mean) ... but of course if your purpose is price/performance some Hydor or Eheim will do the trick pretty well.


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 8, 2008)

SirKeldon said:


> Yeah, i said Laing D5 cause you can purchase the same pump on different brands, such as Swiftech or DangerDen, even the original one, Laing.
> 
> Really the Hydor pumps are good, they're quiet (at least mine) and high reliable for the price they cost ... but normally they're not reliable and good such as a D5 (in the long time i mean) ... but of course if your purpose is price/performance some Hydor or Eheim will do the trick pretty well.



Its quite ok, I just got caught asking a silly question b4 I googled it for myself.

Now whats the deal with the -b and the pumps with or without the switch(665's)? They all show the same specs, so am I to assume theyall do the same thing, just some have options?


----------



## DOM (Jul 8, 2008)

this where I got my Swiftech MCP655 12v DC Pump think its the cheapest $82.95

Also theres the Swiftech MCP655-B 12v DC Pump w/Tach Sensor it doesnt have the 1-5 nob it says on DD there locked at 5 but I saw on XS it was like 4 on the pump above

edit found it for less thats where I got it from


----------



## SirKeldon (Jul 8, 2008)

The B is a limited version of the original Swiftech MCP-655, runs pretty well but it's oriented to give you just a position (in speed, flow, head) while the non-B version has a tachmeter to regulate the speed for yourself depending on the elements you're gonna cool. As it's limited, the B version won't offer you the performance of the original MCP-655 on level's 4-5 (average)

As fitseries3 told me once, NEVER GO WITH THE B! i'd trust him 



edit: i just saw DOM's post, sorry dude


----------



## MKmods (Jul 8, 2008)

DOM said:


> lol thats what it says on the specs show Maximum pressure 50 PSI (3.5 BAR) ??


thats listed as MAX pressure, the real pressure is a LOT lower. Its kind of like PS companies and cheap car stereo amplifiers that list inflated specs.

I would recommend the Liang DDC pump. Add the petras top and its even better
http://www.petrastechshop.com/laddcabpuco.html


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 8, 2008)

DOM said:


> this where I got my Swiftech MCP655 12v DC Pump think its the cheapest $82.95
> 
> Also theres the Swiftech MCP655-B 12v DC Pump w/Tach Sensor it doesnt have the 1-5 nob it says on DD there locked at 5 but I saw on XS it was like 4 on the pump above



Thats the exact one Im planning on, but I had run across all the varients on it in google. Just had to satisfy my curiosity.

@ SirKeldon....this is why I asked here...Thanks for the heads up!


----------



## DOM (Jul 8, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> Thats the exact one Im planning on, but I had run across all the varients on it in google. Just had to satisfy my curiosity.
> 
> @ SirKeldon....this is why I asked here...Thanks for the heads up!



http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCP655-12-VDC-Pump-pr-2982.html

edit the link thats was the lowest


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 8, 2008)

DOM said:


> http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCP655-12-VDC-Pump-pr-2982.html
> 
> edit the link thats was the lowest



So basically its $5 for a variable speed switch?


----------



## DOM (Jul 8, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> So basically its $5 for a variable speed switch?



dont you mean $10 DD cost lil bit more idk why there the same pumps


----------



## DanishDevil (Jul 8, 2008)

Get the variable speed.  I found it extremely helpful when filling and bleeding my loop.  It's usually an extra $30 for it.  For $5 more, you'd have to be a thought-provoked monkey to say no...erm...hmm...


----------



## DanishDevil (Jul 8, 2008)

cdawall said:


> hows this look i know i skipped the res but thats cause idk were the hell im going to put it



You need to fill your blocks bottom to top.  Gravity will keep air bubbles from forming in your block.

And put your res in front of your pump (not location in the case, but in the loop).  Same with the rads if they're Crossflow.


----------



## Wile E (Jul 8, 2008)

I prefer the DDC pumps myself. I use the DDC-1 with the Bitspower Reservoir replacement top. Helps simplify the loop a lot.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6...Pump_Top_-_Laing_DDC-1T1TPlus_MCP-350355.html


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 8, 2008)

DanishDevil said:


> Get the variable speed.  I found it extremely helpful when filling and bleeding my loop.  It's usually an extra $30 for it.  For $5 more, you'd have to be a thought-provoked monkey to say no...erm...hmm...



Ummm.right speed switch....I dont really see a need to be honest, but I may get it just to be sure its running full out...lol.

@ Wile_e...Ever used another pump to compare to. Im not trying to kill you opinion, just asking?


----------



## DanishDevil (Jul 8, 2008)

Well it's rumored that the non-vario pumps run at speed 4/5 while the vario can go from 1-5.  The Laing D5 doesn't have numbers, just a fluid twisty-speed-thingy-ma-bobber.


----------



## Wile E (Jul 8, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> Ummm.right speed switch....I dont really see a need to be honest, but I may get it just to be sure its running full out...lol.
> 
> @ Wile_e...Ever used another pump to compare to. Im not trying to kill you opinion, just asking?



Tried out a D5 for a while. I like the DDC better. There wasn't really a performance difference in my simple loop, so I'd be the wrong person to ask. I prefer the DDC for their versatility when you consider all the tops available for them.


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 8, 2008)

Wile E said:


> Tried out a D5 for a while. I like the DDC better. There wasn't really a performance difference in my simple loop, so I'd be the wrong person to ask. I prefer the DDC for their versatility when you consider all the tops available for them.



You both seem to mention "if" I get a new top its better. I just need the pump and my loop is only the CPU(simple). So with no ambition to actially get a different res, I think Im still going swifty.

Thanks all the same to you and MK for the option tho!


and....Ordered. Swity 665 Variable speed, on its way, hopefully by Friday!


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jul 8, 2008)

*The new Dtek Fuzion GFX2*
































I haven't found any reviews on it yet.  However, its very interesting GPU WB none the less.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jul 8, 2008)

It also appears that iandh, the creator of creator of the IC/vreg heat sinks will also have vreg heat sinks for the 4850 and 4870 in about 2 weeks or so.  So keep an eye out for places like petra, sidewinder, etc by next month or so.


----------



## MKmods (Jul 8, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> I haven't found any reviews on it yet.  However, its very interesting GPU WB none the less.



Thats a very good design.. I used it on my blocks quite a while ago and temps were very nice (their top is a lot prettier than mine though)













works better with the pins separated a little more. And the D-shape or round helps flow and eliminates more of the hot spots.


----------



## CrAsHnBuRnXp (Jul 8, 2008)

What all would I need If I just wanted to cool my CPU and maybe video card? And how would the loop look?

Edit: Should also add that they both would be overclocked as high as i could get them.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jul 9, 2008)

MKmods said:


> Thats a very good design.. I used it on my blocks quite a while ago and temps were very nice (their top is a lot prettier than mine though)
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Very interesting indeed.  Thanks for sharing this information.  Do you think that design is a bit more restrictive then Maze4/5?  Do you believe it will perform better then a Maze4/5?


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jul 9, 2008)

CrAsHnBuRnXp said:


> What all would I need If I just wanted to cool my CPU and maybe video card? And how would the loop look?
> 
> Edit: Should also add that they both would be overclocked as high as i could get them.



Welcome to the thread  (forgive me if you posted before).
What you will need in general are:
GPU WB: jury is out on the Dtek GFX2 
CPU WB: IMHO the Dtek Fuzion is a good option
Tubing: you have to decide on what size you want to go with and pick your barbs accordingly.  One idea is 7/16" ID which can fit 1/2" barbs
Radiator: There are a few to choose from be it Thermochill, Swiftech, Feaser (haven't seen reviews on this yet unless I forgot, lol) and HW Labs to name a few.  I would suggest a 3 fan radiator.  You want a radiator that can dispense heat at a min RPM.
Thermalright LGA775 RM Retension Bracket: This will prevent you from bowing your motherboard as you tighten down on the screws of your WB. 
Fans: You want a reliable, durable fan that can push a good amount of air at a low RPM.  Without it choking do to the restriction of the radiators fins.  There are a few options, IMHO Scythe SFF21E and Yate Loons medium fans are a good start. 
Tube Clamps: I would get the plastic ones.
Finally, you will have to decide if you want to go with a reservoir or a T-line.  T-Lines can reduce the amount of tubing and allow your case to have a more tidy look.  However, the Tee itself can be restrictive (I wouldn't get a 1/2" Tee but the next size larger from your Hardware store).  Also, compared to a reservoir takes longer to bleed the loop of airpockets/bubbles. Either way, the choice is yours which way you want to go.


----------



## MKmods (Jul 9, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> Very interesting indeed.  Thanks for sharing this information.  Do you think that design is a bit more restrictive then Maze4/5?  Do you believe it will perform better then a Maze4/5?



Better less restriction. The curve facilitates flow, the Mazes have slots which are easier to stamp out but the pins when spaced a bit apart allow heat to be transfered 360deg. Also the Maze blocks have that divider built into the top.(adds too much turbulence)

When the pins are too close together it places a restriction on flow (adds more surface) but remember its not that easy to compress water so expecting it to flow freely through tiny close together pins is asking a bit much.

I used the enzotech blocks (saved me a ton of time making then, and have you seen the cost of proper forging machinery ) Also the Enzotech blocks are Forged (MUCH better thermal efficiency than cast)
http://www.petrastechshop.com/encnonfocoso.html

LOL after I made those Enzotech came out with the round one, it would saved me a TON of time not having to grind the square blocks round

(I ran the Maze 4s on my 8800GTSs and mine were 3 to 5C less)




I cant believe I found that pict...

I bet you EastCoastHandle $.25 the GX2 is better than the maze4/5..(dont forget to remind me when the reviews start showing up, (remember Im old and will probably forget I made this bet))


----------



## CrAsHnBuRnXp (Jul 9, 2008)

What size tubing would you recommend?


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jul 9, 2008)

MKmods, 
Thanks for the additional information.  What would you recommend for GPU WB?  Or should I keep the Maze4 for now?

Edit:
Maybe you could shot an email to Dtek letting them know about the pin formation.  Hopefully, we will see a revision before end of year (wishful thinking).


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jul 9, 2008)

CrAsHnBuRnXp said:


> What size tubing would you recommend?



7/16" ID 11/16" OD tubing.  But this is a personal preference.


----------



## cdawall (Jul 9, 2008)

CrAsHnBuRnXp said:


> What size tubing would you recommend?



7/16 if you go with 1/2 barbs


----------



## MKmods (Jul 9, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> MKmods,
> Thanks for the additional information.  What would you recommend for GPU WB?  Or should I keep the Maze4 for now?
> 
> Edit:
> Maybe you could shot an email to Dtek letting them know about the pin formation.  Hopefully, we will see a revision before end of year (wishful thinking).




If the Maze4s fit I think they are a good deal (good value for the $$) No point in spending $$ till you see for sure.

By the way ECH (Im getting way too lazy to type ur whole name now) That pict of a  Tee is an excellent one to use, their ID is plenty big. Thank goodness for Homedepots.

I use 1/2 free flow fittings with 3/8 hose and no clamps.


----------



## intel igent (Jul 9, 2008)

@ Mk : got more pix of the inside of your top?

i've got two of those T's and two elbow's in my loop, they are great!

turbulence help's to promote heat transfer


----------



## DaMulta (Jul 9, 2008)

CrAsHnBuRnXp said:


> What size tubing would you recommend?



3/8s will fit through a pci slot hole on your case. So if you wanted to run your loop without cutting holes that may be the way you want to go.

If you set the whole thing in the case I would say 1/2 because you have more volume of coolant to heat up.

Me and wile have talked about this, he says that there is no gain going from 3/8 to 1/2 when I think there is.

A 240GTX radiator will work like wonders. A 120GTX radiator will work on a CPU and Video card you will just have to run the fan at a very high speed for it to keep up. The bigger the radiator, the slower you can run the fans.



Wile E said:


> I prefer the DDC pumps myself. I use the DDC-1 with the Bitspower Reservoir replacement top. Helps simplify the loop a lot.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6...Pump_Top_-_Laing_DDC-1T1TPlus_MCP-350355.html




That is badass


----------



## MKmods (Jul 9, 2008)

intel igent said:


> @ Mk : got more pix of the inside of your top?
> 
> i've got two of those T's and two elbow's in my loop, they are great!
> 
> turbulence help's to promote heat transfer


sorry, no. 
My business guys keep telling me to stop sharing stuff, so I can only show what is already online.

Turbulence also reduces flow and adds to aeration.


----------



## [I.R.A]_FBi (Jul 9, 2008)

What are your opinions on the pertras kits?


----------



## MKmods (Jul 9, 2008)

Petra FTW! its a very good company and deserves everyones support.
(Alex please send me more pens, Im out )

(Big companies Like Newegg/WalMart are ok but its the little ones that make all the cool stuff)


----------



## intel igent (Jul 9, 2008)

MKmods said:


> sorry, no.
> My business guys keep telling me to stop sharing stuff, so I can only show what is already online.



i'm just curious cuz you said :



MKmods said:


> Thats a very good design.. I used it on my blocks quite a while ago.



to me it just look's like the top has offset barb's (one higher than the other) vs having directional channel's in the top a la Dtek GFX

bussiness guy's hehehe


----------



## twicksisted (Jul 9, 2008)

hey this is a bit of a silly question... but why is watercooling "naturally aspired"? surely air is more natural to a cpu than water...

I understand natural aspiration in car engines (air vs turbo / supercharger)... just wondering why its called natural aspiration for watercooling a cpu.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jul 9, 2008)

MKmods said:


> If the Maze4s fit I think they are a good deal (good value for the $$) No point in spending $$ till you see for sure.
> 
> By the way ECH (Im getting way too lazy to type ur whole name now) That pict of a  Tee is an excellent one to use, their ID is plenty big. *Thank goodness for Homedepots*.
> 
> I use 1/2 free flow fittings with 3/8 hose and no clamps.



Yeah they do come in handy for your water cooled PC sometimes.


----------



## intel igent (Jul 9, 2008)

MKmods said:


> Turbulence also reduces flow and adds to aeration.



it does but it increases thermal transfer, it's why we have impingement style block's 

http://www.efunda.com/formulae/heat_transfer/home/overview.cfm

^^ a good read for those interested


----------



## MKmods (Jul 9, 2008)

intel igent said:


> it does but it increases thermal transfer, it's why we have impingement style block's
> 
> http://www.efunda.com/formulae/heat_transfer/home/overview.cfm
> ^^ a good read for those interested


The problem with impingement style blocks is they need more pressure and place a LARGE restriction on flow.

And with the advent with Single,dual and quad cores and the growth of the GPU as well pointing a high speed stream at the center of the block dosent work as well as before when the storm was king, not to mention with so many different types of cores and each one needing its own restricter it is just too complicated for the companies to make 1 block that works well on all stuff.


----------



## intel igent (Jul 9, 2008)

MKmods said:


> The problem with impingement style blocks is they need more pressure and place a LARGE restriction on flow.
> 
> And with the advent with Single,dual and quad cores and the growth of the GPU as well pointing a high speed stream at the center of the block dosent work as well as before when the storm was king, not to mention with so many different types of cores and each one needing its own restricter it is just too complicated for the companies to make 1 block that works well on all stuff.



funny cuz these method's seem to be doing quite well for Dtek + EK  (to name a few)

i'd still like to see another pick of your top to see if it has directional channel's or merely just offset barb's


----------



## MKmods (Jul 9, 2008)

How about you posting some of your blocks so we can see what you have contributed
(instead of just bugging me)


----------



## intel igent (Jul 9, 2008)

MKmods said:


> How about you posting some of your blocks so we can see what you have contributed



why you gettin' your panties in a bunch?

all i asked for is another pik of the top to see the inside! you're talkin' like Dtek swiped the idea from you so i wanna see if you were the originator or not.

i don't need to post anything to validate myself, my REAL penis is big enough.

edit : bugging YOU! LOL you're hillarious


----------



## cdawall (Jul 9, 2008)

hows this look?







and i'm looking at 6-8 of these beasts and some kind of godly card to control them 3A per fan lol

http://www.weirdstuff.com/cgi-bin/item/18097


----------



## CrAsHnBuRnXp (Jul 9, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> 3/8s will fit through a pci slot hole on your case. So if you wanted to run your loop without cutting holes that may be the way you want to go.
> 
> If you set the whole thing in the case I would say 1/2 because you have more volume of coolant to heat up.
> 
> ...



I do have a Thermaltake Armor case and I do believe it has two holes in the back of the case to run tubes out of. I dont have any rubber things to put over the holes though to keep it from puncturing the tubes.

Since I have a 9800GTX and want to keep costs minimal but still with the best performance, what would you recommend for the GTX? If I went with a small waterblock, I would need ramsinks correct?

For some reason watercooling confuses the hell out of me. Any way you guys can compile lists on my water cooling thread here?


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jul 9, 2008)

cdawall said:


> hows this look?
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Could you label this?  I am not sure what I am looking at, thanks!


----------



## cdawall (Jul 9, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> Could you label this?  I am not sure what I am looking at, thanks!


----------



## DaMulta (Jul 9, 2008)

CrAsHnBuRnXp said:


> I do have a Thermaltake Armor case and I do believe it has two holes in the back of the case to run tubes out of. I dont have any rubber things to put over the holes though to keep it from puncturing the tubes.
> 
> Since I have a 9800GTX and want to keep costs minimal but still with the best performance, what would you recommend for the GTX? If I went with a small waterblock, I would need ramsinks correct?
> 
> For some reason watercooling confuses the hell out of me. Any way you guys can compile lists on my water cooling thread here?



Keep cost down?

Ok here is a list then

DD - 9800GTX 	$124.95 1/2
Black Ice GTX120 $53.95 1/2
Copper TDX Block for Intel 775 Processors  $52.95 1/2
DD12V-D5 Pump Fixed Speed by Laing  $76.95
Danger Den Dual 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir 	$31.95

Subtotal: 	$340.75
Then you could use their tubing or the cheap stuff at lowes.  You can also make your own water mix to save another 40 dollars.


cpu/video card


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jul 9, 2008)

cdawall said:


>



I honestly don't see a problem with this setup.  However, I wouldn't put 1 rad behind another inside the PC Case. You will pull warm air from the 1st rad into the 2nd rad.  Post some pics when you get things up and running


----------



## DaMulta (Jul 9, 2008)

I can't wait to see how the two rads run tied together like that.


----------



## cdawall (Jul 9, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> I can't wait to see how the two rads run tied together like that.



your not the only one bunch of folks on XS are saying the same thing


----------



## DOM (Jul 9, 2008)

I dont think it would change much my temps just went up like 2-3c load from room temps of 70f to 82f right now idle did go up by say 3-5c


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 9, 2008)

cdawall said:


> your not the only one bunch of folks on XS are saying the same thing



I smell a FAIL when it comes to hooking the rads up to water in your configuration unless one of the rads is rotated 90*. The fans inbetween will not allow enough room to get the hoses in and connected!

Just a heads up b4 you finalize the plan!


----------



## MKmods (Jul 9, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> I smell a FAIL when it comes to hooking the rads up to water in your configuration unless one of the rads is rotated 90*. The fans inbetween will not allow enough room to get the hoses in and connected!
> 
> Just a heads up b4 you finalize the plan!


Im no big fan of 90 deg bends but this should fix the clearance prob
http://www.petrastechshop.com/3np1odthhoba1.html

so would these
http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=680

and if you rotated 1 rad 180 deg fron the other (1 with hoses on the top and one with hoses on the bottom it should work)


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 9, 2008)

MKmods said:


> Im no big fan of 90 deg bends but this should fix the clearance prob
> http://www.petrastechshop.com/3np1odthhoba1.html



I was leaning in the direction of laying one on its side and one standing as usual. That will leave 2 barbs up top and two on the side, so the actual "heads" dont clash! Should be able to continue using straight fittings!


----------



## cdawall (Jul 9, 2008)

MKmods said:


> Im no big fan of 90 deg bends but this should fix the clearance prob
> http://www.petrastechshop.com/3np1odthhoba1.html
> 
> so would these
> http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=680



anybody have those in copper?


----------



## cdawall (Jul 9, 2008)

cdawall said:


> anybody have those in copper?



nvm you changed your post lol


----------



## MKmods (Jul 10, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> I was leaning in the direction of laying one on its side and one standing as usual. That will leave 2 barbs up top and two on the side, so the actual "heads" dont clash! Should be able to continue using straight fittings!


do you mean in a cross pattern?


----------



## cdawall (Jul 10, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> I was leaning in the direction of laying one on its side and one standing as usual. That will leave 2 barbs up top and two on the side, so the actual "heads" dont clash! Should be able to continue using straight fittings!



mine have a fitting at the top and bottom so i could run it with elbows just fine



MKmods said:


> do you mean in a cross pattern?



not happening case isn't big enough


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 10, 2008)

Something like this if you were to look top down at the sandwich....


----------



## cdawall (Jul 10, 2008)

mine arent set up like that though

http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=199


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 10, 2008)

Oh well you are screwed without 90* fittings then. You will see when you try to connect the hoses straight on with a fan and a header from another rad they you wont have the room to attach it!

Even with this rad....http://www.jab-tech.com/xcart/product_images/detailed/d_2527.jpg

Unless one rad is 90* from the other you have to use 90*'s...not the best plan IMHO!

Edit: The link you posted it to a 2X120 rad...you are laying 2 of those in your case?


----------



## cdawall (Jul 10, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> Oh well you are screwed without 90* fittings then. You will see when you try to connect the hoses straight on with a fan and a header from another rad they you wont have the room to attach it!
> 
> Even with this rad....http://www.jab-tech.com/xcart/product_images/detailed/d_2527.jpg
> 
> ...



yep here is my DD cart right now


----------



## cdawall (Jul 10, 2008)

wait no im doing this tubing

http://www.jab-tech.com/Tygon-R-3400-7-16-ID-9-16-OD-UV-Resistant-black-Tubing-AAE00032-pr-3958.html


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 10, 2008)

^^^ does that seem more relevant now?


----------



## cdawall (Jul 10, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> ^^^ does that seem more relevant now?



it should work fine like i have it with 90 degree fittings


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 10, 2008)

cdawall said:


> it should work fine like i have it with 90 degree fittings



Im just saying the way I have it flow would have to be better. It is you party tho....play it how you want to!


----------



## cdawall (Jul 10, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> Im just saying the way I have it flow would have to be better. It is you party tho....play it how you want to!



lol maybe ill try this and if all else fails ill try something else i mean shit idc whats in the loop its a MCP655  i tihnk she can pump enough to keep my safe


----------



## MKmods (Jul 10, 2008)

I think if you rotate the rads 180 deg you will be fine without the 90s.
(and the masterclear is not very flexible)


----------



## cdawall (Jul 10, 2008)

MKmods said:


> I think if you rotate the rads 180 deg you will be fine without the 90s.
> (and the masterclear is not very flexible)



that would work so i only needed 2 90s and those would be on the front rad short of punching the tubing out the front i cant get around it

swapped for some tygon R-3400


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 10, 2008)

MKmods said:


> I think if you rotate the rads 180 deg you will be fine without the 90s.
> (and the masterclear is not very flexible)



If you rotate the rad 180* it will be in the exact position you started...the rad is a mirror image of itself on a 45* cut through it.


EDIT: or do you mean in a back to back sort of arrangement?


----------



## cdawall (Jul 10, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> If you rotate the rad 180* it will be in the exact position you started...the rad is a mirror image of itself on a 45* cut through it.




im thinking take my original image and face the front rad so the fittings faced the other rad. on the front rad put a 90 degree fitting to the side of the case and run the inside most rads top fitting to it and on the bottom fitting a 90 again but point it out to the side and run it towards the mobo tray and run it up to my cpu block 



sneekypeet said:


> EDIT: or do you mean in a back to back sort of arrangement?



i think thats what he meant but it wont fit in the front of my case


----------



## SirKeldon (Jul 10, 2008)

Get the Tygon R-3603 ... is a pleasure to bend it and see that no crushes appear


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 10, 2008)

SirKeldon said:


> Get the Tygon R-3603 ... is a pleasure to bend it and see that no crushes appear



IDK i payed through my teeth ($3.50 a foot) for Tygon...6 months later its cloudy. Also I agree it wont kink, but I have tried to make a couple of turns ion SLI that it flattened right out on.

Not all that impressed for the money to be honest...Going with red tubing next, something new!


----------



## cdawall (Jul 10, 2008)

i was looking at the R-3400 mainly because its black

how much comes for that $1 or whatever?


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 10, 2008)

cdawall said:


> i was looking at the R-3400 mainly because its black
> 
> how much comes for that $1 or whatever?



its priced by the foot cd!


----------



## cdawall (Jul 10, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> its priced by the foot cd!



good cause i wasn't paying attention and didnt want to go oh shit when it showed up


----------



## SirKeldon (Jul 10, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> IDK i payed through my teeth ($3.50 a foot) for Tygon...6 months later its cloudy. Also I agree it wont kink, but I have tried to make a couple of turns ion SLI that it flattened right out on.
> 
> Not all that impressed for the money to be honest...Going with red tubing next, something new!



Sad to hear that, i have two hard bends together on the last rad->res plug and no one kinked never, i can only say good things about Tygon though i never tested a SLI/X-Fire plug, i'll tell you


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 10, 2008)

cdawall said:


> good cause i wasn't paying attention and didnt want to go oh shit when it showed up



Well on further examination , your "Quantity: 2" will leave that oh shit in place upon arrival. I say around 10ft is usually good. get 15 if you think you may change things up a bit after the initial setup!

@ SirKeldon...if not for the clouding , for my CPU it works great. I love that it stays soft, I have used a lot of tubing before for fishtanks/pumps. It always got rockhard in 6 months. It may have had something to do with the PC ICE coolant I was using as well. Who knows?


----------



## MKmods (Jul 10, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> If you rotate the rad 180* it will be in the exact position you started...the rad is a mirror image of itself on a 45* cut through it.
> EDIT: or do you mean in a back to back sort of arrangement?



Oh yee of little faith
(sorry for the sucky pict)





The end with the nozzles sticks out further than the end without

I have used primochill hose and its cool
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7...58_OD_with_18_Wall_-_Black.html?tl=g30c99s171
http://www.primochill.com/index.php?target=categories&category_id=257
now in nice colors too


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Jul 10, 2008)

Is this radiator any good?

http://www.scan.co.uk/Product.aspx?WebProductId=798997

It is pretty cheap.


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 10, 2008)

MKmods said:


> Oh yee of little faith
> (sorry for the sucky pict)
> 
> The end with the nozzles sticks out further than the end without
> ...



That was my first assumption, but you missed the part where he links to his type of rads. They have a barb in opposite corners, no like ours!

Also on the links to the tubing...I am looking to nab the red varient on my next major buy(offsets shipping a bit)!


----------



## MKmods (Jul 10, 2008)

tigger69 said:


> Is this radiator any good?
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/Product.aspx?WebProductId=798997
> 
> It is pretty cheap.


looks like a good deal



sneekypeet said:


> That was my first assumption, but you missed the part where he links to his type of rads. They have a barb in opposite corners, no like ours!
> Also on the links to the tubing...I am looking to nab the red varient on my next major buy(offsets shipping a bit)!


oopsy...need to pay attention better.

PS: cwawall why did you get single pass rads?


----------



## cdawall (Jul 10, 2008)

MKmods said:


> looks like a good deal
> 
> 
> oopsy...need to pay attention better.
> ...



it was what i could find cheap i got one of them used and im about to order the other


----------



## Wile E (Jul 10, 2008)

cdawall said:


> it was what i could find cheap i got one of them used and im about to order the other



I'd stay away from x-flow if you can help it. Dual pass rads work much better.


----------



## cdawall (Jul 10, 2008)

Wile E said:


> I'd stay away from x-flow if you can help it. Dual pass rads work much better.



i just switched to a heatercore much cheaper  and the thing dwarfs my rad so i think ill stick with it


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Jul 10, 2008)

Whats that gonna need,140mm fans 

It is a big boy


----------



## cdawall (Jul 10, 2008)

tigger69 said:


> Whats that gonna need,140mm fans
> 
> It is a big boy



what makes it so much nicer is it cost me $28 with tax


----------



## cdawall (Jul 10, 2008)

here it is with a pair of 120s on it


----------



## oily_17 (Jul 10, 2008)

MKmods said:


> DOM said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Just a quick question,I have been looking at the specs of the Swiftech MCP355 and the 655 and even though the 355 has less discharge/pressure than the 655...454LPH/22psi versus 1200LPH/50psi....it is rated at more maximum head 15ft versus 10ft.

I have both pumps,the 655 in my system atm,which is just cooling the CPU and the 355 for my new system which will be cooling the CPU,NB/SB and VRegs..would it be worth swapping the pumps or just stick with what I have??


----------



## DOM (Jul 10, 2008)

oily_17 said:


> Just a quick question,I have been looking at the specs of the Swiftech MCP355 and the 655 and even though the 355 has less discharge/pressure than the 655...454LPH/22psi versus 1200LPH/50psi....it is rated at more maximum head 15ft versus 10ft.
> 
> I have both pumps,the 655 in my system atm,which is just cooling the CPU and the 355 for my new system which will be cooling the CPU,NB/SB and VRegs..would it be worth swapping the pumps or just stick with what I have??



I would unless you got a top for the 355 like this one  cuz they dont have much flow as the 655


----------



## cdawall (Jul 10, 2008)

DOM said:


> I would unless you got a top for the 355 like this one  cuz they dont have much flow as the 655



i have one that i can sell if you want it seeing how they are out of stock


----------



## DOM (Jul 10, 2008)

cdawall said:


> i have one that i can sell if you want it seeing how they are out of stock



sell it to who I got one already LOL but Im going to start a f/s thread cuz im broke  but wifes got the camera


----------



## cdawall (Jul 10, 2008)

DOM said:


> sell it to who I got one already LOL but Im going to start a f/s thread cuz im broke  but wifes got the camera




oily_17 he needs one haha


----------



## DOM (Jul 10, 2008)

cdawall said:


> oily_17 he needs one haha



Northern Ireland  I dont think he would want it unless you pay for s/h


----------



## cdawall (Jul 10, 2008)

DOM said:


> Northern Ireland  I dont think he would want it unless you pay for s/h



its not that big i could send it in a padded envelope


----------



## oily_17 (Jul 11, 2008)

cdawall said:


> DOM said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks guy's,but I already have one 

So I think I will just stick with the 355(well it's a DDC 3.2...but their the same),it will save me emptying my other loop.I only filled it a couple of months ago so cant be arsed really.


----------



## calvary1980 (Jul 11, 2008)

going to need to put a shroud on the heatcore might also have to do something about the in pipe it's smaller. 

- Christine


----------



## DOM (Jul 11, 2008)

oily_17 said:


> Thanks guy's,but I already have one
> 
> So I think I will just stick with the 355(well it's a DDC 3.2...but their the same),it will save me emptying my other loop.I only filled it a couple of months ago so cant be arsed really.



have what the top for the pump ?


----------



## oily_17 (Jul 11, 2008)

DOM said:


> have what the top for the pump ?



yeah....thats what I meant


----------



## cdawall (Jul 11, 2008)

calvary1980 said:


> going to need to put a shroud on the heatcore might also have to do something about the in pipe it's smaller.
> 
> - Christine



yep i know its got a 5/8 and 1/2 so i'm going to solder on some 1/2 barbs onto both and call it a day


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 12, 2008)

Woot Woot. I got water! Set up this weekend! Showing soon in the Case Gallery.


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 12, 2008)

Well fellas, you all tipped me in the right direction.

Got my new swifty 665 in today, hooked it up, turned it on, and I was a bit scared at first.

I bled most of the air prior to boot, and I had no jumper for my PSU, so I took a chance and booted it. I almost pooped. I thought the pump didnt work at frist. I looked a bit closer and say just the tiniest of air bubbles pass by(releaved a bit).

This is the quietest pump I have ever heard, and I've been keeping fish for over 15 years(going through a lot of pumps). No one tick, hum, or grumble from this thing....just smooth and quiet.

Thanks a ton guys in the help of leaving the 110V pumps and going this route!


----------



## cdawall (Jul 12, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> Well fellas, you all tipped me in the right direction.
> 
> Got my new swifty 665 in today, hooked it up, turned it on, and I was a bit scared at first.
> 
> ...



thats the one i have  im glad to hear its silent i tihnk i might get one of these for my bargin bin H2O cooling on my MATX xase

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produ...ubref=AA&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=0018863000000

i'm tihnking model 1300 it kills the specs of the 655 for $20 LOL only downside is it has 3/4in barbs


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 12, 2008)

Oh, I'm looking at my swifty right now! Can't wait to put that bad boy in come this weekend! 

Glad to see your pump is killer my man! Very Glad


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 12, 2008)

cdawall said:


> thats the one i have  im glad to hear its silent i tihnk i might get one of these for my bargin bin H2O cooling on my MATX xase
> 
> http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produ...ubref=AA&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=0018863000000
> 
> i'm tihnking model 1300 it kills the specs of the 655 for $20 LOL only downside is it has 3/4in barbs



That 1300 only pumps about 60GPH more with 4 feet less head , and uses more power(heat added to loop). Also even when my 110V pump was quiet running the PC ICE coolant, the vibration on my desk was still there, so take that into account also!

Just some food for thought!


----------



## calvary1980 (Jul 12, 2008)

congratulations. once you go water you never go back. actually I think it's "Liquid Cooling" now last year I read an article at Toms they used Beer as a coolant and it worked well only problem was they couldn't test long term repercussions, bleeding took long too.



sneekypeet said:


> That 1300 only pumps about 60GPH more with 4 feet less head , and uses more power(heat added to loop). Also even when my 110V pump was quiet running the PC ICE coolant, the vibration on my desk was still there, so take that into account also!
> 
> Just some food for thought!



you need atleast 10ft of head that is the most important aspect when buying a pump.

- Christine


----------



## cdawall (Jul 12, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> That 1300 only pumps about 60GPH more with 4 feet less head , and uses more power(heat added to loop). Also even when my 110V pump was quiet running the PC ICE coolant, the vibration on my desk was still there, so take that into account also!
> 
> Just some food for thought!



woops good point hehe 2300 or 2600 look good?


----------



## calvary1980 (Jul 12, 2008)

didn't you just read my post you banana head 

- Christine


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 12, 2008)

calvary1980 said:


> didn't you just read my post you banana head
> 
> - Christine



Thanks for the laugh Christine!

@ cd I think she means you would need the 3600 or better. But thats over 1000GPH...lol


----------



## DaMulta (Jul 13, 2008)

I have a 120GTX with it's own pump ready to be installed.
Been waiting on a res, and a few other things. But I think I'm going to rig it out anyway





DD-CPX1 12V Pump--Small pump
DD12V-D5 Pump Fixed Speed by Laing
Danger Den Single 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir
DangerDen - 9800GTX blocks


----------



## DaMulta (Jul 13, 2008)

Well I'm going to start on my runs in a few hours.


----------



## SirKeldon (Jul 13, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> I have a 120GTX with it's own pump ready to be installed.
> Been waiting on a res, and a few other things. But I think I'm going to rig it out anyway
> 
> 
> ...



Bad boy's style! even on sketch  It's a lil bit hard to undertand for me though, i'm the only one? 

Anyway ... post pics when you're done man & good luck!


----------



## DaMulta (Jul 13, 2008)

Res 1/2 into a T, then into one pump that is 1/2 and the other 3/8. 

The video cards from the 1/2 will go to 3/8 and back to 1/2 for the rad and then into a T back to the res.


The chipset is from the 3/8s pump, and into the 3/8s rad, and back into the T to the res.


----------



## SirKeldon (Jul 13, 2008)

In what loop will you be cooling your CPU, chipset or graph one?


----------



## DaMulta (Jul 13, 2008)

No cpu in my loop at all


Video cards/Chipset, one loop, with 2 pumps.


----------



## SirKeldon (Jul 13, 2008)

Oh ok, i understand better now


----------



## DaMulta (Jul 13, 2008)

It's all listed in my paint work lol


----------



## cdawall (Jul 13, 2008)

my tygon showed up today just waiting on the maze4 from POS


----------



## DaMulta (Jul 13, 2008)

On a Sunday?


Loving my temps on my cpu


----------



## cdawall (Jul 13, 2008)

it showed up yesterday i just went to the mailbox today


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 14, 2008)

You gotta love water! Just got done setting up my loop. Damn Jab-tech sent me a faulty 3/8th barb.. good thing I bought two extra for whatever... The treading on it was only done once, instead of 3 times around... I almost thought that My block was bad in threading!  loving the temps also. At load at stock, I get what I got with the Xig and Delta's on it! lol


----------



## DaMulta (Jul 14, 2008)

Cold Storm said:


> You gotta love water! Just got done setting up my loop. Damn Jab-tech sent me a faulty 3/8th barb.. good thing I bought two extra for whatever... The treading on it was only done once, instead of 3 times around... I almost thought that My block was bad in threading!  loving the temps also. At load at stock, I get what I got with the Xig and Delta's on it! lol



video? 

cpu?


----------



## sneekypeet (Jul 14, 2008)

Welcome to watercooling!!!!! May your pump always continue to flow, and may all your OC's be chilly.

@ DM its just a CPU loop for now!


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 14, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> video?
> 
> cpu?



I went with just one loop. A Swifty 655 with controller, 360 rad, with 3 80cfm blue fans, a Swifty micro res, and some, should be blue, tubing. I"ll have pictures once I get home from my trip. I was the Whor3 that I am and did around 100... lol

Edit: I wasn't going to go Video because of the fact I will be getting a GTX 280 come the end of this week if not early next... I just really didn't want to by a loop for the GX2... NOt with me giving it up to EVGA this week


----------



## DaMulta (Jul 14, 2008)

Clean up time lol

Sneak peek at just one of the many pics.


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 14, 2008)

Damulta, I've waited forever and a day to get water on EVERYTHING of yours!!! Finish it all ready!


----------



## DaMulta (Jul 14, 2008)

I have been waiting on parts, but I have given up on waiting.
BTW
I'm making a guide


----------



## cdawall (Jul 14, 2008)

im in the same boat waiting on the million things i need to show up but down to block and res


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 15, 2008)

Yeah, that's why I am just making it a one looper... That way I don't have to wait on parts.. if I want the GPU cooled, I'll grab it..


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 17, 2008)

I have a question for everyone. Do you guys prefer the one side of fans on the rad, or would you guys do the push and pull on the rad?


----------



## calvary1980 (Jul 17, 2008)

I like Push Pull. sometimes you can't always have it because of radiator placement. nice Tygon Silver i'm looking into that Primoflex LRT Pro cost about the same, has anti-microbacterial coating and comes in transparent or uv.

- Christine


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 17, 2008)

My Rad is at the top of my cosmos case.






From the inside.


----------



## calvary1980 (Jul 17, 2008)

I don't know. with all these new cases like the Cosmos and Tempest that have radiator mounts they are only one way. but there is no reason why you can't put 6 fans on the radiator.

maybe you can fit 2 more here on top side. if the screw holes are used up you could try cable ties.

- Christine


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 17, 2008)

Yeah, I think I'll pick up a few more fans just for the hell of it. Even if I don't like it, all I have to do is take it off.


----------



## MKmods (Jul 17, 2008)

Cold Storm said:


> I have a question for everyone. Do you guys prefer the one side of fans on the rad, or would you guys do the push and pull on the rad?



I dont do a lot of H20 stuff but I dont notice any difference pulling or pushing (if the fans are sealed to the rad the airflow should be the same)

I cant remember who I read it from but I heard moving the fans about 3/4" of an inch either way improves flow a bit.

Using fans on both sides dosent seem to make too much sense to me as just because there are 2 fans dosent mean there is 2X airflow.(it may be a bit more but not 2X)

There is also the whole "room thing" dual fans means more space needed as well.


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 17, 2008)

Yeah, MK, there isn't that much that can make better with that. I still have some room up top, so I was thinking on doing that. The Temps aren't bad right now anyway. Yet I still haven't oc'ed it since I got home.. lol.


----------



## cdawall (Jul 17, 2008)

calvary1980 said:


> I like Push Pull. sometimes you can't always have it because of radiator placement. nice Tygon Silver i'm looking into that Primoflex LRT Pro cost about the same, has anti-microbacterial coating and comes in transparent or uv.
> 
> - Christine



thanks its translucent which you cant see from the pic i like how it looks


----------



## calvary1980 (Jul 17, 2008)

I have 6 on my Thermochill in my Stacker. the radiator is mounted on the bottom but it's wedged half way in the case . the bottom yate loons are barely touching the ground about half an inch clearance. like this I was thinking of raising it a full inch by installing new case feet.

- Christine


----------



## MKmods (Jul 17, 2008)

calvary1980 said:


> I have 6 on my Thermochill in my Stacker. the radiator is mounted on the bottom but it's wedged half way in the case and the outside. the bottom yate loons are barely touching the ground. like this
> 
> - Christine



LOL, you always have the coolest picts Christine...mine look like I did them with crayon


----------



## calvary1980 (Jul 17, 2008)

lol all I did was take a newegg image, marquee square, use lasso, add border, delete. 

- Christine


----------



## MKmods (Jul 17, 2008)

calvary1980 said:


> lol all I did was take a newegg image, marquee square, use lasso, add border, delete.
> 
> - Christine


All I see there is bla bla Newegg bla bla bla use bla bla bla delete
(I am so program illiterate)


----------



## calvary1980 (Jul 17, 2008)

this is what houses my e8500, it took me 10 minutes in photoshop and the components I did in ms paint (easier) I drew every little ram sink lol it's not hard. I got the cooling system down to a science. I added 3 more yate loons and i'm about to purchase a Fuzion v2!

- Christine


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 17, 2008)

11 fans in the case! That's pretty sweet! I gotta see that case as a whole and not by the great art work you have shown us. 
As for the Fusion V 2. I really like mine. Yes, I've never used it before, but just look at it.


----------



## calvary1980 (Jul 17, 2008)

14 total, I added 3 here I have seen the Fuzion v2 in detail thanks for the photo anyways 

- Christine


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 17, 2008)

ahh didn't see those... Lol... And I just have a tigger finger on my cell phone's camera... Well, any camera. Lol Welcome.


----------



## DaMulta (Jul 17, 2008)

So cold, u like water?


----------



## calvary1980 (Jul 17, 2008)

whatever drugs your on I want some.

- Christine


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 17, 2008)

Damulta: I am really liking it. I am just glad to not hear those damn Delta fans anymore! lmao. That was something else.. Didn't know how I even was able to sleep with them going! 

Cav: Mei lady, after living with 6 girls from the age of 9 to 19, I really can't believe I didn't go to drugs! But, there is no drugs in my body. Just a little "love in the heart". Lol


----------



## calvary1980 (Jul 17, 2008)

I love levitators. my favorite fans.

nevermind I misread sorry Multa lol. I thought you meant "so cold you like water" 

- Christine


----------



## DaMulta (Jul 17, 2008)

I don't share


----------



## SirKeldon (Jul 17, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> I don't share



Selfish!


----------



## erocker (Jul 17, 2008)

I can finally join the club!  I just ordered:

DTek Fuzion V2
Swiftech 655 pump
Black Ice GT Stealth 240 - Xflow 
Swiftech MCRES-Micro 

Yay!


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 17, 2008)

sweet my man! glad to see it! Did you order it from Jab-Tech? or somewhere else?


----------



## erocker (Jul 17, 2008)

Yeah, Jab-Tech...
I'm going to be trying various automotive coolants in it to see what happens.


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 17, 2008)

Nice... I was seeing something about Red water... or something like that... Heard somewhere as that being the best around.... but only 10oz for 10 dollars...


----------



## erocker (Jul 17, 2008)

Toyota coolant is red!  So like a shot of coolant to distilled water for the system?


----------



## erocker (Jul 17, 2008)

> DTek Fuzion V2
> Swiftech 655 pump
> Black Ice GT Stealth 240 - Xflow
> Swiftech MCRES-Micro



Ok, noob question.  How should the loop be setup?

Just want to make sure.


----------



## calvary1980 (Jul 17, 2008)

I already answered his question on MSN. ignore it.

- Christine


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jul 17, 2008)

erocker said:


> I can finally join the club!  I just ordered:
> 
> DTek Fuzion V2
> Swiftech 655 pump
> ...



Welcome to the club


----------



## DaMulta (Jul 17, 2008)

You should of picked up a GTX E.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jul 17, 2008)

erocker said:


> Ok, noob question.  How should the loop be setup?
> 
> Just want to make sure.



Just make sure that the reservoir is higher then the pump.  How you design your loop is up to you (based on your PC Case).

For me, I have my video card and CPU water blocks going to the rad then reservoir then pump.


----------



## DOM (Jul 17, 2008)

*What do you thing ?*

res.>pump>rad>pump>blocks>res. 
or 
res.>pump>blocks>pump>rad>res.

blocks D-TEK v1 GPU and CPU, Chipset Swiftech MCW30 

Rad Blk Ice GTX480

pumps Laing D5 Vario/Swiftech MCP655


----------



## erocker (Jul 17, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> You should of picked up a GTX E.



There's always room for improvement..  Plus I like the design of the radiator I bought and it was a good price.


----------



## DaMulta (Jul 17, 2008)

True they are a good buy.


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 17, 2008)

Erocker, it's a great set-up. You'll like it for what you have told me your going to do. I just hope you make a project log of it! that would be stellar!


----------



## SirKeldon (Jul 17, 2008)

Welcome to the club erocker!

Great setup for starting to W/C!!!


----------



## cdawall (Jul 18, 2008)

my waterblock and res are here  i cant wait to set it all up


----------



## Wile E (Jul 18, 2008)

erocker said:


> Toyota coolant is red!  So like a shot of coolant to distilled water for the system?



So I finally talked you into, eh? lol. As for coolant, I just use straight distilled water. It still cools the best.


----------



## cdawall (Jul 19, 2008)

getting ready to set the rest up maybe tomorrow it will be finished asssembly wise


----------



## DaMulta (Jul 19, 2008)

The great part about having a meanwell






Leak testing where you should be leak testing at.


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 19, 2008)

nah, you just wanted ot show us your bathroom... for some godly reason.. 

I really don't want to see that again!  

Now on the thing at hand.... how's the testing and set up going???


----------



## DaMulta (Jul 19, 2008)

No leaks it appears. Going to test for a while tho. DangerDen sent me two cracked plexi glass blocks(I got them for free, for overclocking(well I have to use them and show them off). I think they sent me the ones they couldn't sell. So I'm making sure that they are not leaking 100%.

Getting the bubbles out before I crank 17v to the pump.


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 19, 2008)

Sweet. throw me a pm when you get that thread up and running! I'd like to see the monster in business.. lol.. 

Nice, bubbles... I need a girl to get that out of my head now!


----------



## MKmods (Jul 19, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> No leaks it appears. Going to test for a while tho. DangerDen sent me two cracked plexi glass blocks(I got them for free, for overclocking(well I have to use them and show them off). I think they sent me the ones they couldn't sell. So I'm making sure that they are not leaking 100%.
> 
> Getting the bubbles out before I crank 17v to the pump.


Is there a chance they have Delrin versions? (acrylic is the worst material for H20 stuff)


----------



## DaMulta (Jul 19, 2008)

I'm just guessing what it's made of. 

I really don't know.


No leaks still.


----------



## MKmods (Jul 19, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> I'm just guessing what it's made of.
> I really don't know.
> No leaks still.



Glad on the no leaks..

the clear tops are Acrylic, its the cheapest plastic to use/mfg.
(Quote from DD site "Acrylic Top")

I notice on the new 260/280 tops they use a smoke Acrylic (Lucite, same stuff just different name)  piece as well.

(this is not gust to pick on DD, any top that is clear may be acrylic)


----------



## erocker (Jul 22, 2008)

Water FTW!


----------



## asb2106 (Jul 22, 2008)

erocker said:


> Water FTW!



wow thats alot of volts!

I tried and tried and tried to get a stable a 4ghz, but even up to 1.7 volts I could not achieve it, and with the temps right now Im running my Q at 3Ghz & 1.2V, with the whole water setup, core temps still reach mid 50's with this damn heat!

One of the video cards are leaving today, and hopefully another soon(buy it!), and Im not putting the new vc's on water, they just add toooo much heat for a single loop in the summer.  If they were on a seperate loop, no prob, but i only have one.


----------



## cdawall (Jul 22, 2008)

you could try a bigger res






something like that


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 22, 2008)

You just pimping your water bottle res!


----------



## asb2106 (Jul 22, 2008)

hey I prob could use a larger rez, expect I have NO WHERE to put it, it would have to be external and I have had enough with whats outside the case already. 

I am currently using a single 5.25 bay rez, and i really dont like it, its a pain to bleed, it sucks air from time to time, and its been nothing but a headache!  

I only have 1 5.25 bay open, so I cannot use a double bay rez, and there isnt much more room to put one, any ideas??


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 22, 2008)

The only thing I can say, is grab a newer case... something nice and big... To bad you couldn't of grabbed the Rockfish when it was $40 at Best Buy man... But, i really don't see putting a res out side the case... could easily bump into it and break it....


----------



## asb2106 (Jul 22, 2008)

Cold Storm said:


> The only thing I can say, is grab a newer case... something nice and big... To bad you couldn't of grabbed the Rockfish when it was $40 at Best Buy man... But, i really don't see putting a res out side the case... could easily bump into it and break it....



exactly, Im thinking of getting the 1200 soon, but I just bought the gigabyte case about 4 months ago.  So its a tough sell right now.  But I need a new case for more HD's anyways.  I have filled my case now, and Im using drive bay adapters just to hold my HD's.  

Im also thinking of just saving up and getting the Lian LI PC2100 case, I like the fact it has room for 12 HD's, and much more stuff too!  I wish something new would come out that is just monsterous like that.


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 22, 2008)

Asb, I'd save up for a Lian LI case... I remember when Erocker was looking into buying one.. I think it was one of his best buys. But, I really do think its a great case to grab. One that you can keep for a long time to come... The cheap-o's are good, and you can mod them to look pretty sweet, but not a real good holding on your things... Like you have said, you got to many hdd's... Lian LI would be a awesome choice for ya.


----------



## cdawall (Jul 22, 2008)

get an old server case and mod the heck out of it


----------



## asb2106 (Jul 22, 2008)

cdawall said:


> get an old server case and mod the heck out of it



that would be fun , any ideas on where I could get my hands on an old server case?


----------



## cdawall (Jul 22, 2008)

go to a local resale shop you would be surprised how many have them or craigslist or something


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jul 23, 2008)

Looks like we may see a new wb in our futures.  I've never seen a design like this before.
Souce

Sidewinder is now selling aftermarket EK "TOP" for your D5 pump.  There is no information if it improves head/flow rates.
Source


----------



## asb2106 (Jul 23, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> Looks like we may see a new wb in our futures.  I've never seen a design like this before.
> Souce
> 
> Sidewinder is now selling aftermarket EK "TOP" for your D5 pump.  There is no information if it improves head/flow rates.
> Source



Ive been trying to find more info on the "top" of the D5, and I cannot find any info on it anywhere!  Im still looking, but if someone knows of some stats on it, please post!


----------



## MKmods (Jul 23, 2008)

asb2106 said:


> Ive been trying to find more info on the "top" of the D5, and I cannot find any info on it anywhere!  Im still looking, but if someone knows of some stats on it, please post!



Koolance makes one too
http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=559

kind of nice as it gives options for location of the nozzles


----------



## asb2106 (Jul 23, 2008)

MKmods said:


> Koolance makes one too
> http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=559
> 
> kind of nice as it gives options for location of the nozzles



I do like being able to move the nozzles where you need them.  

I really wonder if it improves the performance of the pump at all...........

Im actually thinking of using this and adding a second mcp355.  That would give me some GREAT flow rates and the pressure would be great in the system.


----------



## MKmods (Jul 23, 2008)

I prefer the DDC pumps and that EK top looks pretty interesting. I have been using the Petras version for quite a while (Delrin is a superior material)

As to if the Koolance top helps the D5 pump I have no clue. I know the aftermarket tops do help the DDC though.(they eliminate the sharp 90deg bend of the intake)

I hooked a D5 pump to a bucket and also a DDC and the DDC just kicked the D5s butt in pressure and volume so I have been using them ever since.


----------



## asb2106 (Jul 23, 2008)

MKmods said:


> I prefer the DDC pumps and that EK top looks pretty interesting. I have been using the Petras version for quite a while (Delrin is a superior material)
> 
> As to if the Koolance top helps the D5 pump I have no clue. I know the aftermarket tops do help the DDC though.(they eliminate the sharp 90deg bend of the intake)
> 
> I hooked a D5 pump to a bucket and also a DDC and the DDC just kicked the D5s butt in pressure and volume so I have been using them ever since.



If Im not mistaken the DDC and the MCP355 are the same pump, are they not???

I use a petra's top on my mcp right now and the pressure/flow rate is good, but I would like to increase them, hopefully to drop a few more degrees.

I sold one of my vid cards, so it will only be a apogee GT, and 1 EK full cover 3870 block, and my temps are still WAY to high for my liking.  I have the mcp355 with the petra top, 1 320 rad, and 1 220 rad.  The 320 has 110CFM fans on it too, the high CFM honestly does nothing too, i run them around 30% (instead of 100%) and the temps will rise about 2 C at the most.

Im replacing my bay rez with a swiftech rez, and prob gonna add that second pump and hopefully that should get my temps back down.

Example of temps
Ambient -> 75 F
CPU -> 38 C
Cores -> 53-56 C
GPU's -> 39 C

Ambient -> 85 F
CPU -> 43 F
Cores -> 55-60 C
GPU -> 42 C


----------



## MKmods (Jul 23, 2008)

yep the 350/355 is the Liang DDC pump (just Swiftech #s) Before everyone was talking about the D5 so thats why I mentioned it.

Those temps seem too high to me too. There seems to be a bit too much rad as well.(a double and triple) Seems like a triple would be plenty.

I am no expert in H20 (prefer air cooling) but I tried the full coverage GPU blocks and they ran hotter than the blocks like the Swiftech MCW60 and Koolance GPU 180/200s.


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 23, 2008)

I wonder if that is true.. Full Coverage is hotter then going with Universal... I can see it might be since the water has to move along the whole card... Hmmm..


----------



## MKmods (Jul 23, 2008)

to me the first prob with full coverage is because its a long surface of the video card the chances of the card being flat is impossible.
So contact is gonna be poor, you would need that thick tape to bridge the gap, but it dosent work all that well.
The next prob is the big cooler basically traps heat in from all the other parts that arent making contact with the cooler. Where as a small cooler allows airflow to cool the whole surface.

I tried a DD full coverage block before and than replaced it with a maze4 and the temps were like 7 or 8C cooler with the modded maze4.



Cold Storm said:


> I wonder if that is true.. Full Coverage is hotter then going with Universal... I can see it might be since the water has to move along the whole card... Hmmm..


I am way too old to waste time lying to you..


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 23, 2008)

oh MK, i'm not saying that your lying to me.. but I was wondering if others thought of it as being the same or what not.... But, I was thinking the same way as getting the GFX 2 combo

I don't think I'd ever think you'd lie to me.. Or anyone..


----------



## MKmods (Jul 23, 2008)

Cold Storm said:


> I don't think I'd ever think you'd lie to me.. Or anyone..



I wouldnt go that far 

I really like how Dtek made the fins go the proper way for airflow to cool them. It is simple (just 1 plate) to cool all the stuff, but its kind of like how I was talking about before (it traps heat inside pockets.) If you used individual heatsinks air blowing over the top would cool the whole cards surface.


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 23, 2008)

Hows this!? I don't think you would lie about Computer parts... lol 

But, a 8c drop from full to uni.. That's sweet


----------



## MKmods (Jul 23, 2008)

Closer to the truth....

The point was (sometimes I have a hard time explaining myself) using H20 to cool the GPU and good airflow (that means the heat needs to be directed out of the case, not just swirled around or trapped underneath) will be the best solution.

One thing I do also is I epoxy the heatsinks on (dont like tape)
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_thermal_adhesive.htm


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 23, 2008)

Yeah, I get what your saying.. and since I went water, I won't put my side panel back on.. Just don't see a need to... I will think about grabbing that if, or when I do buy the GFX 2...


----------



## asb2106 (Jul 23, 2008)

MKmods said:


> yep the 350/355 is the Liang DDC pump (just Swiftech #s) Before everyone was talking about the D5 so thats why I mentioned it.
> 
> Those temps seem too high to me too. There seems to be a bit too much rad as well.(a double and triple) Seems like a triple would be plenty.
> 
> I am no expert in H20 (prefer air cooling) but I tried the full coverage GPU blocks and they ran hotter than the blocks like the Swiftech MCW60 and Koolance GPU 180/200s.



Could this be one of my problems???

Because the inside of my case is really cramped I have both radz outside the case, and I have one run of tubing going from almost the bottom of the case, all the up to the top to the second rad.  The water is moving quickly still, but I wonder if the long runs could be causing that??  

Im using probably 5 to 6 feet of 1/2 tube in the case, and I have been thinking thats my problem lately.  

I used to have a MCW60 on the card, and it was great temps and it added almost no heat to the loop, but this full cover block is BAD, and with 2 its been horrible!  

When I pull this card tonight Im gonna try and re-route as much tube as possible to shorten it up some.  Having both radiators doesnt bother me much, as it can only help the cooling.  At some point it might do nothing, but it cant hurt right?

When I buy my coolant today, what kind should I go with, I have always used Fluid-XP, anyone have any better recomendations?


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 23, 2008)

I just have distilled water and thinking of getting a dye bomb.. a little cheaper in the wallet... but, that is just me.


----------



## asb2106 (Jul 23, 2008)

Cold Storm said:


> I just have distilled water and thinking of getting a dye bomb.. a little cheaper in the wallet... but, that is just me.



the last time I used some fluid-xp, but that was only to get the blood red.  Before then I have always used fesser dyes and distilled.  Im thinkin of just going back to that.......


----------



## MKmods (Jul 23, 2008)

I use this in my new H20 comps 
http://fluidxp.com/index.php?page=s...ufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

Water works good too with this
http://www.petrastechshop.com/pepcobi1.html

Fesser is just water and anti freeze. If you want that just buy the anti freeze yourself and save a bunch of $

PS: ASB, do you have a pict of the inside of ur comp?


----------



## DOM (Jul 24, 2008)




----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 24, 2008)

Damn bro.. that's scary! lol..


----------



## MKmods (Jul 24, 2008)

Cold Storm said:


> Damn bro.. that's scary! lol..


Thats one of the reasons they call it the torture rack


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 24, 2008)

Lmao.. true on that! torture at the eyes that it be!


----------



## Wile E (Jul 24, 2008)

asb2106 said:


> Could this be one of my problems???
> 
> Because the inside of my case is really cramped I have both radz outside the case, and I have one run of tubing going from almost the bottom of the case, all the up to the top to the second rad.  The water is moving quickly still, but I wonder if the long runs could be causing that??
> 
> ...


Actually, having both rads can hamper cooling performance if they hurt flow too much.

And I also avoid full coverage blocks. Not only does it trap heat, like MK said, but it dumps the heat from your card's vregs and ram into the loop. Sure, you might be able to get the ram a little further, but I'll take a higher gpu clock over a higher ram clock any day. It's strictly universal blocks for me.

As for fluid, I use straight distilled water, with no additives. Still the best performing fluid out there.


----------



## asb2106 (Jul 24, 2008)

Wile E said:


> Actually, having both rads can hamper cooling performance if they hurt flow too much.
> 
> And I also avoid full coverage blocks. Not only does it trap heat, like MK said, but it dumps the heat from your card's vregs and ram into the loop. Sure, you might be able to get the ram a little further, but I'll take a higher gpu clock over a higher ram clock any day. It's strictly universal blocks for me.
> 
> As for fluid, I use straight distilled water, with no additives. Still the best performing fluid out there.



The goal is to get the full covers out of there, and I think Im just gonna stick with Air cooling for my next video cards.  Water cooled video cards are just a huge pain to do anything else in my computer.  

Could the length of hose be a hinderance?


MKmods said:


> I use this in my new H20 comps
> http://fluidxp.com/index.php?page=s...ufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1
> 
> Water works good too with this
> ...



let me get a few...... Im at work now but the girl is home, hopefully I can get her to take some for me


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 24, 2008)

longer hose would only hender the cooling of the parts only if the pump can't handle it. Meaning, the faster the pump can move water the better off you are. Thats the way i look at it... But i am no expert..


----------



## asb2106 (Jul 24, 2008)

Cold Storm said:


> longer hose would only hender the cooling of the parts only if the pump can't handle it. Meaning, the faster the pump can move water the better off you are. Thats the way i look at it... But i am no expert..



yah thats kinda how i was feeling, and the pump is handling the length just fine, with the petra top i got 8 foot of head with 1/2 ID tubing.  It prob could have gone longer than 8 feet but thats all the tubing I had.


----------



## intel igent (Jul 24, 2008)

1.0gpm - 1.5gpm is pretty much all you need, anything over will only improve temp's if blox are designed to favour pressure (impingement/restriction style)

more RAD will overcome low flow more often than not


----------



## NeoCrisis (Aug 4, 2008)

Hey guys so i finally finished my water cooling set up. 
I started out with cooling my just my CPU with a dual 120mm radiator. Then I decided to throw my sli 8800gt into the loop. 
They way I have my case setup (Silverstone TJ07) I wanna keep one hdd cage at the bottom so I can't fit a triple 120mm radiator. Would adding another single 120mm to existing dual 120mm into the loop be just as efficient as using just one triple radiator?
Also any suggestions to better my cooling would be great 

Thanks

and FYI im using D5 pump, DD mc-tdx, maze5 gpu blocks


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Aug 4, 2008)

*Information about Apogee GTZ*


----------



## cdawall (Aug 4, 2008)

my computer is 100% done will post pics when i get home


----------



## intel igent (Aug 4, 2008)

gabe's been buisy......

look's nice on paper, any word on review tests?


----------



## Cold Storm (Aug 4, 2008)

Yeah, it does look pretty nice... I would love to see a review myself.


----------



## Wile E (Aug 5, 2008)

It would be nice if they went to G1/4 fittings as well.


----------



## sneekypeet (Aug 5, 2008)

Well I got my new pump a while ago and that lead to me wanting new tubing. So here is the new loop with the pump moved indoors.






The pump looks a bit croocked because it was before I made the plate for it. Had a chunk of the case steel left over from when I cut the fan hole for the PSU!


----------



## cdawall (Aug 5, 2008)




----------



## Cold Storm (Aug 5, 2008)

It looks good Cada, and the same for you Sneeky!  That makes me want to throw up pictures for my loop.. lol..


----------



## intel igent (Aug 5, 2008)

so what are you waitin' for?


----------



## cdawall (Aug 5, 2008)

i love my loop with my phenom @2.84ghz 1.4v its still not breaking 37C under 100% load for 30min


----------



## Wile E (Aug 5, 2008)

intel igent said:


> so what are you waitin' for?



I second this sentiment. lol.


----------



## intel igent (Aug 5, 2008)

since i redid my loop i only turn the RAD fan's on while i'm gaming 

she idle's @ 36c even in this heat (no A/C for me) and still running same clock's/Volt's 

calvary got killed before doin' my voltmod


----------



## Cold Storm (Aug 6, 2008)

That's pretty nice Intel.  on the work! 

Pictures you say... Lmao

Before drilling






After drilling






The Rad up top






Everything else






I don't have the plastic tie with the hose anymore. I did that so I could make sure it wouldn't move so much when I was traveling back home with it. Plus the video card is my back up.. 

But, there you have it. I have more... But, know no one wants to see it! 

Oh, forgot one thing... wires aren't like that anymore. Worked on that while I tried out the striker II board... Wile E... Board is dead, and I might have to rma my GTX now... lol


----------



## DaMulta (Aug 9, 2008)

Got my machine up and running....but had a leak on the board while it was on....now it doesn't turn on....fuck


Maybe after it drys out it will be back up and running........


----------



## Cold Storm (Aug 10, 2008)

where did the leak happen? I would just un hook everything and take the battery out and do a rest... But, i do hope after the board drys it works... What are you using for coolent?


----------



## Wile E (Aug 10, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> Got my machine up and running....but had a leak on the board while it was on....now it doesn't turn on....fuck
> 
> 
> Maybe after it drys out it will be back up and running........



Christ man, you have the worst computer luck I have ever seen, and I've personally blown up a lot of shit. lol.


----------



## Cold Storm (Aug 10, 2008)

Wile E said:


> Christ man, you have the worst computer luck I have ever seen, and I've personally blown up a lot of shit. lol.



lol wile e.  I think its a curse when you first set up something that will potentially pwn... Or, when you put so much effert into that one thing.. I've stopped working on my computer late a night because i'll end up messing it up...


----------



## deagle (Aug 10, 2008)

wanna be a member...


----------



## DaMulta (Aug 10, 2008)

I was using distilled water.....it was on tho. I powered it down cleaned it up.

Now the lights come on, but the fans don't spin noting. The LCD is just flashing on and off.

I'm so pissed it's not even funny. I went and spent some of the last pocket cash I had to get it up today(payday is not for a week....)and I owe money so no way I can get a motherboard for at least 3 weeks.....

I'm literally about in tears about this. I'm so mad it's not funny.


The leak came from the side of the block....when I tested the block the first time the leak was on the fittings. So I taped them up and thought I was ready to go, another lesson......


----------



## Cold Storm (Aug 10, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> I was using distilled water.....it was on tho. I powered it down cleaned it up.
> 
> Now the lights come on, but the fans don't spin noting. The LCD is just flashing on and off.
> 
> ...



dm im sorry to hear that man... Im with yea on mobos... Mines dead from a blown transformer...  so it leaked from the barb then block... must be a pressure issue... these things all ways happen man. Just don't get to mad...


----------



## DaMulta (Aug 13, 2008)

Well it started back up again, BUT it is showing the CPU INT error again. BUT it's not flashing like last time.....so I don't know.

I have pulled the battery out again, maybe in a day or two it will start again.


I just dont know.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Aug 20, 2008)

Anyone impressed with the Apogee GTZ?

CustomPC
XT Review


----------



## cdawall (Aug 20, 2008)

its def looks nice


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Aug 29, 2008)

Apogee GTZ vs Fuzion V2.  So far the results are almost the same.


----------



## savillm (Aug 30, 2008)

i want a wc set up but have no idear what i need lol

ive been looking at this set up is it any good?


http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showp... Watercooling Kit (Socket 775/754/939/940/AM2)

or this one 


http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/cata...oducts_id=1107

i only want to cool my cpu nothing else

any idears welcome

thanks


----------



## intel igent (Aug 30, 2008)

savillm said:


> any idears welcome
> 
> thanks



there's about 27pgs of "idears" here....


----------



## savillm (Aug 30, 2008)

intel igent said:


> there's about 27pgs of "idears" here....



but are the kits i showed any good????


----------



## intel igent (Aug 30, 2008)

have a look at the first post of this thread.....


----------



## Wile E (Aug 31, 2008)

savillm said:


> i want a wc set up but have no idear what i need lol
> 
> ive been looking at this set up is it any good?
> 
> ...


Second link doesn't work. But anyway, the 220 you linked is decent, but if you can assemble that, you can assemble a custom kit, and get better results. As Intel said, look at the first post for some ideas.


----------



## savillm (Sep 3, 2008)

what about this stuff i was looking at?

This bundle consists of the following items:

1 x XSPC 200 Bay Reservoir & Pump - Clear 
1 x EK 1/2" Hose fitting 
1 x EK 1/2" Hose fitting 
1 x EK 1/2" Hose fitting 
1 x EK 1/2" Hose fitting 
1 x EK 1/2" Hose fitting 
1 x EK 1/2" Hose fitting 
1 x XSPC Tubing Clip For 1/2" Hose 
1 x XSPC Tubing Clip For 1/2" Hose 
1 x XSPC Tubing Clip For 1/2" Hose 
1 x XSPC Tubing Clip For 1/2" Hose 
1 x XSPC Tubing Clip For 1/2" Hose 
1 x XSPC Tubing Clip For 1/2" Hose 
1 x Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound (3.5g) 
1 x EK Supreme Acetal (Socket A,754,939,AM2, 478 and LGA 775) CPU Water Block 
1 x XSPC RS120 120mm Radiator - Black 
1 x XSPC 1/2" High Flexibility PVC Tubing - 1m 
1 x XSPC 1/2" High Flexibility PVC Tubing - 1m 


i would buy the 240mm rad and sell the 120mm. Also its is a good setup is there anything im missing?







above all will it be better cooling than my current Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro?

thanks


----------



## savillm (Sep 7, 2008)

what about this set up with a 240mm rad

http://www.aqua-pcs.co.uk/xspc-x2o-delta-watercooling-kit-819-p.asp

and this fluid

http://www.aqua-pcs.co.uk/feser-one-coolant-uv-acid-green-1l-934-p.asp

with mx2 for the cpu paste


----------



## Wile E (Sep 7, 2008)

savillm said:


> what about this set up with a 240mm rad
> 
> http://www.aqua-pcs.co.uk/xspc-x2o-delta-watercooling-kit-819-p.asp
> 
> ...



That's an OK kit. It's pump and block leave a little to be desired. I'd still rather build my own kit. If I had no choice but to buy a kit like that, I'd get the Swiftech H20-220 instead. Just because I know the pump is good, and the block is decent.


----------



## intel igent (Sep 7, 2008)

why do people refuse to read?


----------



## Wile E (Sep 8, 2008)

intel igent said:


> why do people refuse to read?



Referring to whom? Not me I hope. lol.


----------



## intel igent (Sep 8, 2008)

Wile E said:


> Referring to whom? Not me I hope. lol.



was'nt directed at you at Wile E

just a general comment on a trend that i noticed and have been victim of myself....


----------



## crapgame (Sep 11, 2008)

hi all im new 2 wc just put my sys together last week did a little ocing.
u all have some sweet sys's hope 2 push mine  it till i cant go no more.
ur coments in the posts have helped alot 2 this noob.
thanks 2 all


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Sep 11, 2008)

welcome to the forum.  What are you looking to water cool?  Just your CPU or CPU and GPU, etc?


----------



## cdawall (Sep 11, 2008)

adding a 2nd loop to my system for the video card lol


----------



## crapgame (Sep 11, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> welcome to the forum.  What are you looking to water cool?  Just your CPU or CPU and GPU, etc?



looking for waterblock for vid,nb,sb,mosfets


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Sep 11, 2008)

CPU and GPU can be found in the OP
As for n/s bridges and mosfets those can be a bit tricky to find for a MF II.  Places like:
EK
Mips
and there is one more but I can't remember.  You can check those places to see if they fabricated waterblocks for your MB.


----------



## Whilhelm (Sep 29, 2008)

I suppose I should join the club. 











Tons more pictures in my worklog below.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Sep 29, 2008)

Welcome to the club and nice setup!


----------



## Whilhelm (Sep 29, 2008)

Thanks I am only going to keep on making it better. 

And nice job with this thread, I remember referring to it when I was doing my watercooling research.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Sep 29, 2008)

Whilhelm said:


> Thanks I am only going to keep on making it better.
> 
> And nice job with this thread, I remember referring to it when I was doing my watercooling research.



Thanks, I try to keep it up to date with any new worth while development.  But if you find anything new don't hesitate to let me know (water blocks, pumps, rads, etc).  

Do you plan on water cooling the video card?  Or are you looking to do something else?


----------



## Whilhelm (Sep 29, 2008)

I am not sure how long I am gonna have my 3870x2 and don't want to waste money on a block that will be useless when I upgrade. I am adding an MCR320 and have added another block to the board. I also want a Dtek Fusion to replace my Apogee.


----------



## philbrown23 (Sep 29, 2008)

well guess I'll join to 

Apogee GTZ
2X Dtek GPU V1
Laing D5 vario modded 
3X pa 120.3
Masterkleer 7/16 tubing FTW


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Sep 29, 2008)

Whilhelm said:


> I am not sure how long I am gonna have my 3870x2 and don't want to waste money on a block that will be useless when I upgrade. I am adding an MCR320 and have added another block to the board. I also want a Dtek Fusion to replace my Apogee.



That's a tough decision there.  I agree with you though I wouldn't want to invest in a FC water block for a video card I may upgrade later on.  Let us know if you notice any temp difference with your Dtek Fuzion.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Sep 29, 2008)

philbrown23 said:


> well guess I'll join to
> 
> Apogee GTZ
> 2X Dtek GPU V1
> ...



Welcome to the club philbrown23.  This sounds like a nice setup.  Do you have any pics to share?


----------



## Whilhelm (Sep 29, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> That's a tough decision there.  I agree with you though I wouldn't want to invest in a FC water block for a video card I may upgrade later on.  Let us know if you notice any temp difference with your Dtek Fuzion.



Well there is one on here for 50 bucks that is mighty tempting and I am just deciding if I want to buy it. 50 bucks is easier to swallow then spending 150

And yeah Philbrown, lets see some pics of your setup when you get it in, or maybe some work in progress shots.

Jeez do you really plan on looping 3 Pa 120.3s in your loop, that is nutz.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Sep 29, 2008)

Whilhelm said:


> Well there is one on here for 50 bucks that is mighty tempting and I am just deciding if I want to buy it. 50 bucks is easier to swallow then spending 150



Yes, $50 sounds a whole lot better.  I say go for it as long as it's in working order.  Just make sure you don't overtighten the screws and, make sure you look at your card to see if it's bent or not once you install the FCWB.


----------



## Whilhelm (Sep 29, 2008)

It would look pretty sweet installed and it would shut up the loud obnoxious noise it makes. 

I have an extended warranty with futureshop and I am waiting for them to get a 4870x2 so my "defective card" can get replaced.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Sep 29, 2008)

Ah, I see...


----------



## Whilhelm (Sep 29, 2008)

My card does make a very peculiar sound that only happens when I'm running games. It sounds like the card is crying, its a weird electronic interference sound and it bugs the crap out of me. So if futureshop would get a new card in I want this one replaced because I have never heard a video card make such strange sounds and I know it is not normal.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Sep 29, 2008)

Whilhelm said:


> My card does make a very peculiar sound that only happens when I'm running games. It sounds like the card is crying, its a weird electronic interference sound and it bugs the crap out of me. So if futureshop would get a new card in I want this one replaced because I have never heard a video card make such strange sounds and I know it is not normal.



Sounds like a plan.  I hope things work out for you.


----------



## freaksavior (Oct 7, 2008)

Imma gonna join also  this will be like the 4th club im in 

specs are in sig. pics are in case gallery


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Oct 7, 2008)

freaksavior said:


> Imma gonna join also  this will be like the 4th club im in
> 
> specs are in sig. pics are in case gallery



Welcome to the club


----------



## freaksavior (Oct 7, 2008)

what is the easiest way of draining the loop? and is water and dye just as good as a coolant? or anti freeze?


----------



## erocker (Oct 7, 2008)

I like straight distilled water.  Dyes well... dye everything and alcohol and things like acrylic resevoirs don't mix well.  Easiest way to drain the loop is removing the hose that is at the lowest point in your loop.


----------



## freaksavior (Oct 7, 2008)

i put red food coloring dye in it. was that a bad idea?


----------



## sneekypeet (Oct 7, 2008)

freaksavior said:


> i put red food coloring dye in it. was that a bad idea?



Only way to be sure is to drain the loop and see if parts got dyed as well. I have heard of ppl using food coloring, so I cant assume its all bad.


----------



## freaksavior (Oct 7, 2008)

erocker said:


> I like straight distilled water.  Dyes well... dye everything and alcohol and things like acrylic resevoirs don't mix well.  Easiest way to drain the loop is removing the hose that is at the lowest point in your loop.



lowest point? thats also the hardest tube to get off for my rig


----------



## sneekypeet (Oct 7, 2008)

does your res or pump remove from the case easily....I have my pump mpounted with just enough extra tube to get it outside the case into a bowl, then I just pop off a line. 

Any end that is easy to get at can be used, but the lower the better, so you dont have to adjust your case in funny ways to make the water flow out of a high spot.

May be a good time now to add a drain 'T" to the loop for the next draining if needed!

Can you link me to the shot of your PC after you got the water in it?


----------



## cdawall (Oct 7, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> does your res or pump remove from the case easily....I have my pump mpounted with just enough extra tube to get it outside the case into a bowl, then I just pop off a line.
> 
> Any end that is easy to get at can be used, but the lower the better, so you dont have to adjust your case in funny ways to make the water flow out of a high spot.
> 
> ...



his will be a pain to drain best bet might be to take off a random tube and lay it on its side


----------



## freaksavior (Oct 7, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> does your res or pump remove from the case easily....I have my pump mpounted with just enough extra tube to get it outside the case into a bowl, then I just pop off a line.
> 
> Any end that is easy to get at can be used, but the lower the better, so you dont have to adjust your case in funny ways to make the water flow out of a high spot.
> 
> ...





cdawall said:


> his will be a pain to drain best bet might be to take off a random tube and lay it on its side



i could do the res, i can pull it out of my case. 

the only reason i ask is for when/if i get nehalem and or a silverstone TJ07


----------



## NastyHabits (Oct 7, 2008)

intel igent said:


> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=70 <fan reviews, how to's, guides and more
> 
> plz no haters, just collaborators



I just found this thread, and just read the fan section in the URL above.  Realized I'd just spent a bunch of $$$ on a crap rad fan.   I'll be back when I finish reading the rest of the thread.  Mucho cool info to digest.


----------



## Whilhelm (Oct 8, 2008)

freaksavior said:


> i could do the res, i can pull it out of my case.
> 
> the only reason i ask is for when/if i get nehalem and or a silverstone TJ07



If you are looking for a TJ07 take a look at the one Fit is selling. He has done some things to it that make it better than stock.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Oct 8, 2008)

NastyHabits said:


> intel igent said:
> 
> 
> > those silverstone fans are not idael for rad application they have low static pressure which inhibits their performance
> ...



That's odd there was no fan review in the url you quoted in your post.  What fans did you buy?


----------



## freaksavior (Oct 9, 2008)




----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Oct 25, 2008)

Heres mine

http://www.techpowerup.com/gallery/1834.html


----------



## NastyHabits (Oct 25, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> That's odd there was no fan review in the url you quoted in your post.  What fans did you buy?



Sorry 'bout that.  The guy who does the fan reviews is "Vapor".  Here's another attempt at posting the URL http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=193126

I bought a Silenx 120x38mm.  I like Silenx for case fans, but they don't work on radiators.  The 38mm is loud and vibrates.  Maybe I got a lemon?


----------



## DaMulta (Nov 16, 2008)

This thread needs more love

So bump


----------



## Wile E (Nov 16, 2008)

Hey, which is better, Maze 5 or MCW60?


----------



## DaMulta (Nov 16, 2008)

Dom and froggy both have Maze 5 blocks.

JTLYK


----------



## Wile E (Nov 16, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> Dom and froggy both have Maze 5 blocks.
> 
> JTLYK



Yeah, I have a Maze 5, but I just bought a MCW60 off of nflesher. I was just wondering if one is significantly better than the other, or if they are fairly equal.


----------



## DaMulta (Nov 16, 2008)

If you have both.....then you should be the one that really knows correct?


----------



## Wile E (Nov 16, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> If you have both.....then you should be the one that really knows correct?



I'm not tearing down my loop if I don't have to. lol

Thus, the whole reason I'm asking in here.


----------



## erocker (Nov 16, 2008)

Just got my new reservoir in!


----------



## Wile E (Nov 16, 2008)

erocker said:


> Just got my new reservoir in!



Oohhh. It's all tubular and stuff (and has fatboy fittings).


----------



## DOM (Nov 16, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> Dom and froggy both have Maze 5 blocks.
> 
> JTLYK



mines a D-Tek FuZion-GFX 



Wile E said:


> Oohhh. It's all tubular and stuff (and has fatboy fittings).


and looks like it has a led i think cuz why would it have a 2-pin wire 

mySwiftech MCRES-MICRO Hi-Flo Reservoir has fatoys `


----------



## freaksavior (Nov 16, 2008)

d-tek fusion work on x58?


----------



## DOM (Nov 16, 2008)

freaksavior said:


> d-tek fusion work on x58?



X58 ot 1366 LGA 

havent seen anything yet but im sure they will


----------



## DanishDevil (Nov 16, 2008)

Not until they release a bracket for the new socket.  Or you can make one yourself like fitty did.


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Nov 16, 2008)

Hey Dom have you seen the new Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Hi-Flo Reservoir rev2,it has another opening at the bottom opposite the fill hole,ideal for running two pumps or a drain line.


----------



## freaksavior (Nov 16, 2008)

DOM said:


> X58 ot 1366 LGA
> 
> havent seen anything yet but im sure they will



yes, lga 1366 

I got my crap for sale but i need the bracket for 1366


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Nov 20, 2008)

It appears that Intel will change the socket for the i7 from 1366 to 1156 in 2009.  Therefore, upgrading your water cooled solution is going to be a little tricky.  IMO, I would wait until the dust settles.


----------



## Fitseries3 (Nov 20, 2008)

has anyone tried the new tubing that dangerden has on their site?


----------



## DanishDevil (Nov 20, 2008)

From reading that, it doesn't look like they're changing the socket, but launching a mainstream version of nehalem as a different socket.

It's almost like they're turning into AMD with all the different sockets.  I liked everything being 775...


----------



## Fitseries3 (Nov 20, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> It appears that Intel will change the socket for the i7 from 1366 to 1156 in 2009.  Therefore, upgrading your water cooled solution is going to be a little tricky.  IMO, I would wait until the dust settles.



nope. thats the p55 mainstream boards. the 1156 socket will be for mainstream dual cores only. nothing is changing at all. p55 will be dual channel ddr3 only though.

x58 will be quads and octo cores chips only and will always have tripple channel ddr3 support


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Nov 20, 2008)

fitseries3 said:


> nope. thats the p55 mainstream boards. the 1156 socket will be for mainstream dual cores only. nothing is changing at all. p55 will be dual channel ddr3 only though.
> 
> x58 will be quads and octo cores chips only and will always have tripple channel ddr3 support



The P55 was reported to be using the 1160  
Furthermore, I've found no confirmation on the P55 as of yet.  Which is why I say wait until the dust settles.


----------



## erocker (Nov 20, 2008)

fitseries3 said:


> has anyone tried the new tubing that dangerden has on their site?



What tubing is that?  I just picked up some Tygon Black for my little project.


----------



## Fitseries3 (Nov 21, 2008)

http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translat...k=Hardware&id=327&lp=de_en&btnTrUrl=Translate


----------



## Wile E (Nov 21, 2008)

Am I the only one that buys the cheapest POS vinyl tubing that I can find at the hardware store? $.15 per foot > fancy colors, imo.


----------



## DaMulta (Nov 21, 2008)

+ 1 


LOL

the cheap 3/8 is WAY better than cheap 1/2 tho....IMO


----------



## DaMulta (Nov 21, 2008)

fitseries3 said:


> has anyone tried the new tubing that dangerden has on their site?



Yes and it's the shit.

It's very easy to work with 1/2 that is....


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Nov 22, 2008)

Has anyone ever read about these fans before?  They are suppose to be dedicated for rads.

Source


----------



## cdawall (Nov 22, 2008)

just looks like a normal fan with the shroud built in


----------



## Whilhelm (Nov 25, 2008)

At them moment my system has one water cooling loop. Soon it will have two, I will be cooling the CPU, NB, SB, Vreg x2, and two GPUs. For rads I am using an MCR320 and an MCR220. The pumps are an MCP655 and an MCP355w Petras top. I need some help figuring out what would be the best split for the two loops. With so many waterblocks I am having a hard time figuring out which blocks to put on each loop aside from obviously splitting up the CPU and GPU blocks. I know that the 655 will be on whichever loop has more blocks in it and the MCR320 for whichever loop will be hotter. Anyone with dual loop experience have any pointers for me?



EastCoasthandle said:


> Has anyone ever read about these fans before?  They are suppose to be dedicated for rads.
> 
> Source



Those fans are specially designed for Fesers new Monsta rad that they are releasing. They supposedly move lots of air but I think they would be overkill for most rads. Scythe S-Flex or Yate loon Mediums are more than enough for most rads.


----------



## King Wookie (Nov 25, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> Has anyone ever read about these fans before?  They are suppose to be dedicated for rads.
> 
> Source



I came across these on another site.

Even started a thread, for what it's worth:

http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=77014


----------



## kyle2020 (Dec 8, 2008)

I need someone with a decent ammount of experience to look over this for me:

(attachment)

Thanks!


----------



## Exavier (Dec 8, 2008)

Like i posted in the modding clubhouse;

2x DDC-1T Pro w/ XSPC top
Aquabay res
2x Feser '480
Fuzion v2 with Fitty's clear top
XSPC 4870X2 block
green Feser One coolant

in 3/8" ID 1/2" OD, I'm thinking?


----------



## cdawall (Dec 8, 2008)

ok so i'm out of room in my case looking to see if i can mount a 4x80mm rad on the outside of my case and if that will be enough to cool an 8800GTS G92 (or dual GPU in the future) and my NB/mosfets. pump i will be using is the laing D4/swifty MCP650 ($30 on petras!)

this is the rad i'm looking at http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...e=product_info&cPath=59_336&products_id=22811

and the case will be something like this


----------



## cdawall (Dec 12, 2008)

lookie what just showed up


----------



## Exavier (Dec 14, 2008)

looks nice - have you seen the DetroitAC top over at XS? they make D5s run so much nicer.
I'm using two DDC-1T Pro with XSPC top in my single loop, dual pump/rad setup.


----------



## Mark_Hardware (Dec 14, 2008)

Hey so I see I'm a bit late in joining this thread (story of my life) But I def will be WC'ing! There is much I can, and hope to, learn about it yet...


----------



## Exavier (Dec 23, 2008)

debating case colour schemes

as my case is going to be orange, the only way I can see getting an aquabay to work with my colour scheme (BUT not ruin the interior colours) is if I have black tubing - my case build is black/orange but a front-mounted aquabay will look odd if I have orange coolant in the loop as it will match the case and ruin the aesthetics..
so I think if I had for example green UV coolant in the loop in black tubing, the only places you would see the green are res/pump top/cpu top...unless someone has any ideas on black coolant?
*trying not to ruin colour scheme*


----------



## DarkEgo (Jan 5, 2009)

I would like to know if there is someplace I can buy an AM2 mount for the D-tek FuZioN.


----------



## Exavier (Jan 5, 2009)

my above question still stands


----------



## DOM (Jan 5, 2009)

Exavier said:


> my above question still stands



so you want blk coolant ?

do you already got some coolant or going to use distilled water ?


----------



## Exavier (Jan 5, 2009)

mostly-mostly about the colour scheme - would the green help it all 'pop' or is orange and black throughout nice enough? I need the coolant to standout against the orange of the case as I'm using an aquatube and the window will be viewable as a level indicator..


----------



## DOM (Jan 5, 2009)

i say black cuz green wouldnt look right with orange and black imo


----------



## oily_17 (Jan 5, 2009)

I think Feser do a black coolant iirc

EDIT:Here it is ...just dont know how black it would be..their colours are sometimes like washed out.

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=34_96&products_id=561


----------



## erocker (Jan 5, 2009)

What about black tubing?


----------



## kyle2020 (Jan 5, 2009)

erocker said:


> What about black tubing?



something like this, perhaps? http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=44_116_147&products_id=349


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jan 5, 2009)

DarkEgo said:


> I would like to know if there is someplace I can buy an AM2 mount for the D-tek FuZioN.



I thought D-tek Fuzions came with a AM2 mount bracket? Are you having a hard time finding this?

I believe this place sells the D-Tek Fuzion which comes with the mounting bracket you are looking for.


----------



## Exavier (Jan 5, 2009)

I'm thinking black tubing primarily so it doesn't change the inside but I wanna know if I should therefore do the coolant green to make it look good against the case (liquid visible outside the case through reservoir bay and pump/block tops only)


----------



## DarkEgo (Jan 5, 2009)

EastCoasthandle said:


> I thought D-tek Fuzions came with a AM2 mount bracket? Are you having a hard time finding this?
> 
> I believe this place sells the D-Tek Fuzion which comes with the mounting bracket you are looking for.



I have the D-Tech FuZion but I only received the "Pro-Mount." I was thinking about switching to PII when it comes out and I don't want to but a new water block. Can I purchase the AM2 mount separately?


----------



## freaksavior (Jan 5, 2009)

DarkEgo said:


> I have the D-Tech FuZion but I only received the "Pro-Mount." I was thinking about switching to PII when it comes out and I don't want to but a new water block. Can I purchase the AM2 mount separately?



I got a d-tek fusion v2 and i got both mounts


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jan 5, 2009)

DarkEgo said:


> I have the D-Tech FuZion but I only received the "Pro-Mount." I was thinking about switching to PII when it comes out and I don't want to but a new water block. Can I purchase the AM2 mount separately?



You should contact the place you purchased it from.  You should have received both mounts.  Or you can contact D-tek themselves


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 6, 2009)

I got a strange question of sorts... I got the Primochill Liquid Utopia - Steel Blue dye a few days ago.. And well, I only ordered 1 and it is all ready gone...  My question is this... If I grabbed the Utopia UV Blue, would it hurt it due to me having the Steel Blue in it? On the same lines... If I went with the Feser View UV Blue, would it do anything harmful? 

The only reason I even ask is that when I was looking at getting the 50ml Feser UV, it says "Do not mix different colour Feser One coolants together: Chemical reactions can occur".

Going to throw a order in Thursday on some more of that and a longer Uv sata cable for my Dvd burner..


----------



## DanishDevil (Jan 6, 2009)

I've heard of GUNK being created in between the pins of blocks by using the Feser dyes.  Your best bet is getting some Feser UV hose and using plain 'ol distilled water and some PT Nuke.  UV tubes won't get clouded from the PT Nuke either.


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 6, 2009)

DanishDevil said:


> I've heard of GUNK being created in between the pins of blocks by using the Feser dyes.  Your best bet is getting some Feser UV hose and using plain 'ol distilled water and some PT Nuke.  UV tubes won't get clouded from the PT Nuke either.



Yeah, I have half of my system done in Blue uv tubing... When I was doing my loop, I couldn't find 1/2 to 3/8 barb.. They weren't in stock at Jab-tech, and No Home Depot or Lowes in a 20 miles area of my parents house in West Palm had something for it... So, I have two different things... I should go a buy the rest of it and just go all 3/8... I probably can find what I need now..


----------



## freaksavior (Jan 6, 2009)

i changed my water when i added the second pump.. how important is pt nuke? if i dont add it when will it start to build algey? and my mobo is going to be shipped out in about 2 weeks is it ok to leave the water in the system  for a couple months or should i run through it clean water and "clean it out"


----------



## erocker (Jan 6, 2009)

Copper really is an algae inhibitor, though I put a half a cap of alcohol in just to be sure.


----------



## cdawall (Jan 6, 2009)

how bad would it be if i were to idk run filtered tap water?


and does anyone have a tline they want to give away i'm trying to kill some vga cards....
http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=80975


----------



## DanishDevil (Jan 6, 2009)

I just use PT Nuke to be safe.  If you order from PTS, you can add PT Nuke for like $2.  I think it's copper sulfide or something like that anyway, so yeah copper is the algae inhibitor.


----------



## cdawall (Jan 6, 2009)

yea i have some pt nuke @ freaksaviors house....


----------



## kyle2020 (Jan 6, 2009)

DanishDevil said:


> I've heard of GUNK being created in between the pins of blocks by using the Feser dyes.  Your best bet is getting some Feser UV hose and using plain 'ol distilled water and some PT Nuke.  UV tubes won't get clouded from the PT Nuke either.



I decided to rip my D-Tek FuZion to bits last night to see how it worked - well, ill upload the pictures as soon as i get home but my god. 

Anyone got any decent tips for clearing out a block that has 3/4 of the pins smothered in gunk? I assume i can drop it in hot tap water and let the gunky shit melt out? 

im hoping hot water, say, from a kettle wont damage the copper in any way?


----------



## DanishDevil (Jan 6, 2009)

It's just copper.  Take a thin paper clip and unroll it and use that between all the pins to scrape the crap off.

And quit using crummy coolant 

And yeah the Fuzions are pretty cool, huh?  If you think they work cool, the EK Supremes are even more complicated.

BTW: If you ever tarnish the copper on the bottom of a block or heatsink (from fingerprints and whatnot) take lemon juice, and a few small sprinkles of salt, and just rub it with your finger.  The acidity of the lemon combined with the slight corrosiveness of the salt takes it right off.  Then rinse with water and pat it dry.  Gotta give the props to fit, though


----------



## kyle2020 (Jan 6, 2009)

DanishDevil said:


> It's just copper.  Take a thin paper clip and unroll it and use that between all the pins to scrape the crap off.
> 
> And quit using crummy coolant
> 
> ...



oh no it came like that, I havent even got all my WC parts delivered yet haha. 

Can i put it in hot water to clean any excess the paperclip misses?


----------



## DanishDevil (Jan 6, 2009)

Sure.  What I did was I did the paperclip deal, then I used an air compressor to blow it all out once I got it loosened up.  Worked quite well.  If you don't have one, there's always those cans of compressed air.

And yeah the first Fuzion I got had gunkies all over :shadedshu


----------



## Exavier (Jan 6, 2009)

I used ketchup on my fuzion when I got the base all print covered...
then washed it off in meths LOL


----------



## kyle2020 (Jan 6, 2009)

Exavier said:


> I used ketchup on my fuzion when I got the base all print covered...
> then washed it off in meths LOL



haha


----------



## kyle2020 (Jan 6, 2009)

before (Turns out the gunk was like gelled coolant / tissue cotten like stuff, had a nightmare cleaning it. Used a super soft toothbrush in the end, worked a damn treat ) 







And after a through cleaning + a vinegar bath for 30 minutes:






Now my FuZion is clean (did a full block clean, barbs, o-rings and all) and my tubing / coolant and a few other odd bits are on their way, my new loop should be running by the weekend


----------



## Exavier (Jan 6, 2009)

that's the result I got in ten minutes of toothbrush + ketchup + final meth wash to get rid of greasiness

and now I've got Fitty's clear top on it, and it looks sexy as hell.


----------



## cdawall (Jan 6, 2009)

just put together a simple loop for some AGP video cards

BIX 120->tline->D4->swifty MCW60->rad again 


going to test it out tonight


----------



## 1Kurgan1 (Jan 7, 2009)

Moved over to this forum last month and I completed my loop at the sametime. Very informative post for anyone new to this. And that PCI molex bracket  thats a savior just ordered it.

My Loop:

-Swiftech 220mm Rad
-Radbox
-Themaltake Aquabay M5
Zalman WB4
-Then a few feet of 3/8" UV Green tubing

Here's a shot of how it looks






And the water block






Got another pic of my whole setup on link in sig. This is my first WC loop and getting hte comp ready for a Phenom II 940, so far really happy with it!


----------



## cdawall (Jan 7, 2009)

be careful with that block copper+alum=bad


----------



## 1Kurgan1 (Jan 7, 2009)

I'm pretty sure anything the waters running through is copper, I know the bottom of it is all copper.


----------



## cdawall (Jan 7, 2009)

my vga murder loop

http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=80975


main build






tline






5/8->1/2 adapter since the only tline at autozone was a 5/8ths






120mm BIX rad






FX5200+MCW60






another view






corsair pump 











1Kurgan1 said:


> I'm pretty sure anything the waters running through is copper, I know the bottom of it is all copper.



your block is a copper bottom with an alum top


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 7, 2009)

Cdawall, got enough color in the ties!? Looks good man!


----------



## cdawall (Jan 7, 2009)

Cold Storm said:


> Cdawall, got enough color in the ties!? Looks good man!



its not a permanent set up so its the $.99 bag of ties lol and that tubing is crap NEVER buy the $.28 tubing from lowes lol kinks off the roll


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 7, 2009)

cdawall said:


> its not a permanent set up so its the $.99 bag of ties lol and that tubing is crap NEVER buy the $.28 tubing from lowes lol kinks off the roll



lol... Man, that's still good!

Here's my temp thing when I couldn't get the reducer from Jab-tech that I needed..









Going to place a small order Thursday for the stuff I needed to finish it all!

By the way... That is a old picture! lol But the fitting is the same!


----------



## cdawall (Jan 7, 2009)

looks good hopefully that little loop i made can help get some VGA wr's


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 7, 2009)

cdawall said:


> looks good hopefully that little loop i made can help get some VGA wr's



The clear tubing, and barb set up was Home Depot.  Jab-tech didn't have everything so my dad and I played around with it some. Good old engineering style!


----------



## Wile E (Jan 7, 2009)

cdawall said:


> its not a permanent set up so its the $.99 bag of ties lol and that tubing is crap NEVER buy the $.28 tubing from lowes lol kinks off the roll



That's all I use is the $.28 tubing from Lowes. Works fine here.


----------



## DanishDevil (Jan 7, 2009)

kyle2020 said:


> before (Turns out the gunk was like gelled coolant / tissue cotten like stuff, had a nightmare cleaning it. Used a super soft toothbrush in the end, worked a damn treat )
> 
> http://i40.tinypic.com/301288p.jpg
> 
> ...



It was gelled coolant.  Most likely from somebody running a cheap coolant, or one of the Feser coolants/dyes.


----------



## kyle2020 (Jan 7, 2009)

Anyone (yes, Im talking to my brothers over the pond, too) got a FuZion Pro mount kit for sale? Im in dire need of one, they seem to be as rare as rocking - horse sh*t over here!


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 12, 2009)

Alright after I ask this question with this post, I will be putting up another post with pictures of all my stuff I got and finally how I got it set up. basically Im running a Laind D4 (made by Corsair) pump a koolance 3x120MM rad (bought from Binge) OCZ Hydra Flow Water Block and a BitsPower Cylindrical Res (not overly huge).

anyways I cant seem to get my pump to pull the water (running a test setup run to check for leaks) from the Res. I have the fill port lid off and it wont work and I have it on and it still wont pull the water. Its working great (the pump) but for some reason I dont know why it aint working. Check for the pics and you will see how I got it set up.


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 12, 2009)

http://img.techpowerup.org/090111/IMG_1797.jpg

Here is the setup.


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 12, 2009)

I am thinking that the Bitspower has a small leak at the bottom (not sure why though Markexx took care with the shipping and I just got it out).


----------



## DOM (Jan 12, 2009)

need better pics bigger also


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 12, 2009)

Here are my parts:





































































































These are pics of my parts and various set up process. I wound up using some high pressure PTFE pink Teflon tape (rather than that used for Gas lines) to double ensure no leaking. I had a small leak from the back of the rad but I believe that was from me not having them nozzles tight. I think I may need another Res as this one has a small leak.


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 12, 2009)

Sorry bud I cant make them any bigger, I wish this would resize them but it wont


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 12, 2009)

Alright, let us try this right here. Ignore the black tape Im using to hold it on (along with double sided 3m sticky tape) for the Res. It will be changed. Im not sure if I want the MCRES one not sure where to mount that.

Pic:


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 12, 2009)

Notice I have the Rad emptying out into the right side of the res and the pump pulling in from the left side. I do hope I dont have the Rad ports mistaken for what goes where


----------



## oily_17 (Jan 12, 2009)

In this pic is the res upside down...with the inlet/outlet at the top

http://img.techpowerup.org/090111/IMG_1797.jpg


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 12, 2009)

Well I went ahead and ordered the Swiftech MCres Rev 2. sHould be here by Wednesday at the latest. Ill keep the Bits power as a back up (and check it for that leak.


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 12, 2009)

I have it the way I think it would go with the fill jar on the bottom and the screw cap on the top with the inlet and outlet on top. I assumed with the bleeder/fill port up there that was the way to go.


----------



## oily_17 (Jan 12, 2009)

Try it with the inlet/outlet at the bottom...and mount it so the tubing then goes down to the inlet on the pump.

With the inlet/outlet at the top the pump maybe getting air instead of water.

EDIT:Looking at the pic..turn the res round and use the port on the bottom of the res(the black part) for your outlet till pump and then use one of the side ports (on the black part) for the inlet till res.
Your res should be this way up in pic

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6968/ex-res-131/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_-_Tank_Z.html?tl=c97s165b145


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 12, 2009)

Ill give that a try.


----------



## oily_17 (Jan 12, 2009)

Just a word of caution..dont run the pump without it getting water as this can lead to them failing prematurely.


----------



## DOM (Jan 12, 2009)

lol thats what i noticed the res is upside down 

and might want to put it some where else can you put it in the 5.25 bay area ?


----------



## oily_17 (Jan 12, 2009)

DOM said:


> ...might want to put it some where else can you put it in the 5.25 bay area ?




Yeah it would be best that the res is the highest part and then route your tubing straight down to the inlet on the pump.


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 12, 2009)

Alright, so that worked alot better. Now I just have to cycle the power for a couple of hours to get all the air bubbles out. Draining it might not be so bad though. One thing is, I am going to have to wait for my Swiftech Mcres V2 to come in and use that. This works great but I already ordered that thinking I had a leak  . I like this bitspowers though. I will have to mount it internally though. The distance to travel for the res to the pump is longer than I would like. I find I have small bubbles (like pop bubbles in a pepsi or something) and the pump is housing two decent air bubbles that I cant seem to get out.


----------



## DOM (Jan 12, 2009)

oily_17 said:


> Yeah it would be best that the res is the highest part and then route your tubing straight down to the inlet on the pump.



its better if the res is higher then the pump so it well start with water in it

and thats why i ask so it well be alot shorter also on the mobo tray next to the ram would be good if you can put it there


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 12, 2009)

Yeah I was thinking I would have to do something like that. Unfortunately my 5.25 bays are DVD RW, DVD rw and then HDD fan/sink thing (no HDD in there) then I got my card reader. Id like to mount it somewhere else in the inside but I am not sure.


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 12, 2009)

Going off that Oily, that would take me modding some stuff. I guess I could use some Zip ties but damn wouldnt that look kind of tacky. If you can maybe give me a rough drawing of what you think I may try that. Right now at least its sucking the water in. Its pretty quiet but noticeably louder than my fans. Good think Im just testing this and doing the run in the kitchen


----------



## oily_17 (Jan 12, 2009)

DOM said:


> and thats why i ask so it well be alot shorter also on the mobo tray next to the ram would be good if you can put it there



Yeah I agree with DOM here if you could mount it on the inside of the case beside the mobo tray (on the grey part with wires coming out -in the pic) then that would be easier to route your tubing till the pump below...maybe turning the pump round 90 degrees would help.

EDIT:Maybe here would do(green mark)


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 12, 2009)

I will give that a try tomorrow when I get home. As I said though I got the Mcres res coming in and I may just wait for that to get in. I really do like this Bitspower though.


----------



## oily_17 (Jan 12, 2009)

Yeah I think the cylindrical reservoir are easier to mount than the micro-res one's.They seem to take up less space but what ever you are happy with makes no difference.


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 12, 2009)

I'm thinking of going with a Cylindrical res now. I have the Micro-res but I fell I need something "more" in it...






Going to redo the loop in a month or so. Fix it with the loop as being all uv tubing, then probably throw the 3 sythe Kaze Slip Stream 1900rpm fans on the rad.. I love the blue, but I may just throw uv active paint on the fan casing and go with it.. But, got the UV Sata's in there and it's looking sweet now!


----------



## cdawall (Jan 12, 2009)

these are cheap and work well

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5958/ex-res-122/MagiCool_Plexi_3_Port_Reservoir_-_150.html


i have two of them


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 12, 2009)

Yeah Idont know now. The Cylindrical one is bad ass but the MicroRes looks better and easier to mount. I need the mount kit for this bitspower.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jan 17, 2009)

I will never touch a bottom barb res again (a reservoir with barbs at the bottom).  I use to use my cylindrical res but my temps were always a few degrees higher then I'd like.  Also it would shake the entire case and the noise it causes became annoying.  Maybe it was because of that particular res, not sure.  But I went back to my old res which has barbs on the rear instead of the bottom and not only did my temps drop but was more quieter for me as well.

Edit:
Another thing I almost forgot, the more water you put in a bottom barb res the more pressure you needed from the pump to push the water into the res.  For me this caused bubbling which caused the whole case to vibrate/rock.  I could never fill it to the top because the cap just couldn't take the pressure and would leak.  Overall, it was more of hassle for me.


----------



## erocker (Jan 17, 2009)

EastCoasthandle said:


> I will never touch a bottom barb res again (a reservoir with barbs at the bottom).  I use to use my cylindrical res but my temps were always a few degrees higher then I'd like.  Also it would shake the entire case and the noise it causes became annoying.  Maybe it was because of that particular res, not sure.  But I went back to my old res which has barbs on the rear instead of the bottom and not only did my temps drop but was more quieter for me as well.
> 
> Edit:
> Another thing I almost forgot, the more water you put in a bottom barb res the more pressure you needed from the pump to push the water into the res.  For me this caused bubbling which caused the whole case to vibrate/rock.  I could never fill it to the top because the cap just couldn't take the pressure and would leak.  Overall, it was more of hassle for me.



That's crazy but sooo true!  For some reason I get about a 3c increase in temps using my Ek 150 over my swiftec microres.  I just don't get it.  My new radiator came in for my other case today (Lian Li V1000), and I realize I'm going to have to cut more out of my case to fit it.  Everything is going to get crammed in the bottom of this case.


----------



## kyle2020 (Jan 17, 2009)

Heres mine with my spanky new XLF fans - I think im going to re do all my tubing using black tygon or use a black dye, im not sure why but this distilled water looks cloudy when i wanted it to be crystal clear 











The zip tie is being used to keep the pump level on the case bottom, looked weird before on a tilt lol






1/2" tubing = im unsure. Looks quite cool but I might go down a size.






Anyway, thats my loop. It goes Pump > Radiator > FuZion > Res and so on. A bit backward I know, but idles my quad @ 3.2 at around 20 degrees celcius, im well impressed 

Constructive criticism requested!


----------



## kyle2020 (Jan 17, 2009)

Oh, and ignore the messy cables / unfinished 24 pin mod, Ive been really lazy as of recent and havent set aside a few hours to have a good clean. I will when i get my 4850 in, I promise


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jan 17, 2009)

kyle2020,
Your setup looks fine to me .  Personally I would only mount my radiator vertically.  However, as long as your temps are ok you should be fine.  The true test of your watercooling setup will come during the summer months (if you don't have central air, etc). IMO, as long as your temps are in the low to mid 30C idle (or lower) and no higher then the low 40C mark you should be fine.


----------



## erocker (Jan 17, 2009)

I like it Kyle!  I would love to have all of my fans be those orange and black Xigmateks.  I think we have the same radiator which actually does work better in a vertical position, but I too have mine mounted like yours.  Unfortunately I have a processor that reads temps on the high side constantly.


----------



## kyle2020 (Jan 17, 2009)

erocker said:


> I like it Kyle!  I would love to have all of my fans be those orange and black Xigmateks.  I think we have the same radiator which actually does work better in a vertical position, but I too have mine mounted like yours.  Unfortunately I have a processor that reads temps on the high side constantly.



cheers mate, what do you think to black tubing? Also, I might get a stealth 12cm and mount it at the back and then add my GFX to the loop, not sure yet.


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 17, 2009)

I think it looks pretty sweet Kyle. I'd hold off for the Black tubing. There is Black dye bombs that you can grab. Probably take 3 of the small babies to do the trick.

Erocker, Your going to have to do some modding of that case! But the parts you got look pretty nice! I was looking at getting that type of res/pump combo at the first, but it I went with the swifty pump and micro...

Should be taking it apart come Thursday and finishing up what I need to do. Going to throw some Slipstreams on the res and mod them with blue led's...


----------



## kyle2020 (Jan 17, 2009)

erocker said:


> I like it Kyle!  I would love to have all of my fans be those orange and black Xigmateks.  I think we have the same radiator which actually does work better in a vertical position, but I too have mine mounted like yours.  Unfortunately I have a processor that reads temps on the high side constantly.



I love these fans. Think im going to do all my case in them - 61CFM and they are almost silent, im dead impressed.


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 17, 2009)

kyle2020 said:


> I love these fans. Think im going to do all my case in them - 61CFM and they are almost silent, im dead impressed.



Yeah, they're at 20dbs... It's a great fan, I had it on my GTX280 aftermarket cooler. My avatar now is with it showing.. 

I've fell in love with the New Kaze "slip streams" at 1900rpm's it's 110cfms.. The best part, it's only 37dbs. I can't even hear them over the yate loons.. Even less cfms... lol.

But, Kyle, if you really like Orange, GO for it! great fans!! Just might want to throw off the stickers!


----------



## erocker (Jan 17, 2009)

Doing some cutting and fitting.


----------



## Whilhelm (Jan 18, 2009)

erocker said:


> Doing some cutting and fitting.



I like what I see so far, its gonna be a nice compact loop. I am interested to see the temps you get with that nice little XSPC rad.

What hardware are you going to use in that build?


----------



## erocker (Jan 18, 2009)

I'm not sure on the hardware yet, though I'll probablly test out my current system on it to see how it compares to my MCP655/120x2 "crossflo" radiator loop.  Just got back from the shop, did a little more cutting.  I'm going to put an Antec Tri-Cool fan on it to see how the rad performs using the three different speeds.  The fins are pretty wide apart.


----------



## Wile E (Jan 18, 2009)

EastCoasthandle said:


> I will never touch a bottom barb res again (a reservoir with barbs at the bottom).  I use to use my cylindrical res but my temps were always a few degrees higher then I'd like.  Also it would shake the entire case and the noise it causes became annoying.  Maybe it was because of that particular res, not sure.  But I went back to my old res which has barbs on the rear instead of the bottom and not only did my temps drop but was more quieter for me as well.
> 
> Edit:
> Another thing I almost forgot, the more water you put in a bottom barb res the more pressure you needed from the pump to push the water into the res.  For me this caused bubbling which caused the whole case to vibrate/rock.  I could never fill it to the top because the cap just couldn't take the pressure and would leak.  Overall, it was more of hassle for me.





erocker said:


> That's crazy but sooo true!  For some reason I get about a 3c increase in temps using my Ek 150 over my swiftec microres.  I just don't get it.  My new radiator came in for my other case today (Lian Li V1000), and I realize I'm going to have to cut more out of my case to fit it.  Everything is going to get crammed in the bottom of this case.


That's part of the reason I love my reservoir tops for my DDC pumps. I don't have to worry about that kind of stuff. Greatly simplifies loop setup as well.


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 18, 2009)

@ECH I had the same problem setting up my loop with the Micro Res Rev2 and I had bubbles, once I bled the system for a few hours and put the lid on tightly, the bubbles disappeared and this is the quietest Ive seen it been since I installed it. I have my barb coming out the bottom of the res going to my pump because it was easier that way. I do have it almost to the top though but not to the top got to leave room for the circulation and what not. 

I also got this Bitspower Cylindrical Res which I love but it was a pain to find a spot for it in the case. I might keep it as a back up or use it as an extra if I ever WC my chipsets, mosfets, vrms, and gpus


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jan 18, 2009)

WarEagleAU said:


> @ECH I had the same problem setting up my loop with the Micro Res Rev2 and I had bubbles, once I bled the system for a few hours and put the lid on tightly, the bubbles disappeared and this is the quietest Ive seen it been since I installed it. I have my barb coming out the bottom of the res going to my pump because it was easier that way. I do have it almost to the top though but not to the top got to leave room for the circulation and what not.
> 
> I also got this Bitspower Cylindrical Res which I love but it was a pain to find a spot for it in the case. I might keep it as a back up or use it as an extra if I ever WC my chipsets, mosfets, vrms, and gpus



Hmm, maybe I didn't explain the situation clearly enough. I wasn't talking about air bubbles trapped somewhere in the loop.  With the barbs at the bottom of the reservoir all the water exiting the radiator (from my loop) it would gush up from the bottom of the reservoir creating a continuous mini geyser.  This is what causes the PC case to shake.  Again, I wasn't able to fill the reservoir to the top because the cap would eventually leak.


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 18, 2009)

Yeah I understood what you were saying  I hear ya mine isnt doing that though, or it didnt. I had the mini geyser too and I was like, dude, WTF with all these bubbles in the res. My lines finally cleared though and then as it went on it cleared up. Sorry yours didnt fix itself though. Hopefully your loop is running superb now.


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 19, 2009)

You know what guys!? I don't think I'll ever go back to "regular" color tubing... Not after taking this












And, probably not "regular" color lighting!!


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 19, 2009)

Haha awesome. What Tubing and lighting is this?


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 19, 2009)

I used the Blue UV active Promoflex tubing and one kit of the UV active CCFLS. I love how much the other parts of the computer react to UV lighting!


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 19, 2009)

Hmm later on when I upgrade my Mobo and CPU, I may go that way. UV Reactive looks bad ass!!!


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 19, 2009)

It's not that bad... You can get dye bombs that is uv reactive for pretty cheap also.. I've found going to FrozenCPU as being the cheaper of the places to get dye bombs... It did take me 3 shots to make my loop UV... Since I have a little bit as being normal tubing... U just also wanted my Micro res to light up.. Just need more lighting for where it's at, or move it.. lol


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 19, 2009)

Haha yeah I got a mix of tubing because the thick Master Kleer I got from Petras was too hard to bend like I needed it.


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 19, 2009)

I've found that Jab-tech is the best place to go for the stuff you really need. really cheap, and I can get it from Damulta's state in 2 days... 2 day shipping!!! for cheap! Saturday stuff! lol


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 19, 2009)

And what state is that??


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 19, 2009)

WarEagleAU said:


> And what state is that??



From OK to FL. I like it for the fact I can order at 2am on Thursday (when I get payed) and get the stuff Saturday afternoon. Makes my weekend pretty nice.


----------



## Exavier (Jan 19, 2009)

any idea of how the orange xigmateks perform on a low-speed radiator?


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 19, 2009)

They should perform pretty well. It's 61cfm pushing so you should be all right on it.. I personally won't throw anything below 80cfms on Radaitors


----------



## Exavier (Jan 19, 2009)

cheers CS 
I've got a RX360 and I have a Feser 480 coming...both work well with -/+ 1200rpm fans and according to Martin's tests they're good with low CFM..
I just need new fans x14 for push/pull, and I'm aware that the S-Flex are so expensive that they're prohibitive - I'm actually considering Thermaltake Silent Wheel fans and sanding them (thanks to smee for the idea, yoink haha) as they're HALF the price and are 130mm.
but if I can find these cheap enough then I might do these instead...orange is now a must  hahaha
any idea on serial number/code?


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 19, 2009)

I really can't say right now since I'm at work. But, I can tell you to just throw Xigamtech a e mail asking for where you can get them and what not.. Also, there is a Yate-loon fan that is orange.. I'd check it out.. No Led's but you can all ways add them! lol


----------



## johnnyfiive (Jan 19, 2009)

What do you guys think of the Swiftech H20-220 kit? I'm completely new to water cooling and I'm looking into that kit due to its simple layout. Do you guys have any better recommendations with its price range? This kit here caught my attention but its quite a bit more.


----------



## Whilhelm (Jan 19, 2009)

It is hard to go wrong with that kit. It gives you a decent setup with quality parts that you can add to and upgrade as necessary.

If you can, go for the one that comes with the Apogee GTZ and MCRES Rev2. The GTZ is better suited to cooling Quad cores and i7 then the GT that comes with the older version of the kit 

Here is the link to the H20 220 Apex Ultima Kit
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24646

The kit you linked is more basic and the single 120mm rad will limit your cooling potential.

For the same price this setup would be far better than the XSPC single 120mm rad kit.
If you ever want to upgrade your CPU block you can get an aftermarket pump top for the swiftech pump and use whichever CPU block you want. 

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22815


----------



## Exavier (Jan 19, 2009)

Cold Storm said:


> I really can't say right now since I'm at work. But, I can tell you to just throw Xigamtech a e mail asking for where you can get them and what not.. Also, there is a Yate-loon fan that is orange.. I'd check it out.. No Led's but you can all ways add them! lol



Chris matey I've seen the orange YLs and I wondered if they were genuine...black shroud/rim orange blades...do want


----------



## Alv (Jan 19, 2009)

kyle2020 said:


> Heres mine with my spanky new XLF fans - I think im going to re do all my tubing using black tygon or use a black dye, im not sure why but this distilled water looks cloudy when i wanted it to be crystal clear
> 
> 
> Anyway, thats my loop. It goes Pump > Radiator > FuZion > Res and so on. A bit backward I know, but idles my quad @ 3.2 at around 20 degrees celcius, im well impressed
> ...



I got the same case, and Im interested in WC, what Radiator are u using?? did you have to do any modding for installing it??


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 20, 2009)

Exavier said:


> Chris matey I've seen the orange YLs and I wondered if they were genuine...black shroud/rim orange blades...do want



I've believe I've seen them around some where... I'd google image them and I think you'll find where they are selling.


----------



## DarkEgo (Jan 20, 2009)

Do you guys think I could cool a overclocked Phenom II and CrossFire'd 4850's with a 220+ a 120 rad?


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 20, 2009)

As long as your pump can push enough water threw the tubing, then it would work. If you go adding more then a CPU, I'd suggest making sure the fan's are also good enough to cool the water running threw it all.

To me, and this is me alone, I would suggest if you cool more then one card, to due duel set up with rad and pump


----------



## DarkEgo (Jan 20, 2009)

Right now I have the Laing D4 and a Swiftech mcr-220 with Yate Loon Medium's. I wanted to get water cooling for the CrossFire 4850's I am getting (because they run so hot) but I only wanted to use a single radiator for my second radiator so I don't have to use a rad box.


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 20, 2009)

It should be quite fine for what your wanting to do. Just normal cooling of sorts.. But, that is my thoughts on the item


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 20, 2009)

Any ocing on them bad boys and Id get either a high CFM fan or another dual rad for it.


----------



## Exavier (Jan 20, 2009)

okay so now I'm mildly irritated - I just received my RX360 for £28, good enough deal and although I just put it in a sinkful of water with tubing attached to check for any holes in the fins and nothing came up, there are massive dents all over it  so yeah, I'm pissed off lol.
still, a steal for a good radiator - now just waiting for my HYDOR SELTZ L30 to arrive and I'm set:

my what a lovely box 







inside the box:




all my lovely gear..


pictures of the aforementioned radiator:









:shadedshu


----------



## kyle2020 (Jan 20, 2009)

for that price mate, you cant complain 

Where did you get it that cheap anyway? the bay?


----------



## Exavier (Jan 20, 2009)

well it is watertight and I just got £10 knocked off by the seller whom I respect very highly for doing so - it's a shame that it was perfect before Royal Mail decided to use it as a punching bag. 

so basically under £20 for a 3-fan rad that will fit in the top of a TJ07 with no modding (except the extra fan hole) = perfect  I might attempt to straighten + bondo it a little where the fins are crumpled.


----------



## erocker (Jan 20, 2009)

Looks like a lack of packaging materials.


----------



## WarEagleAU (Jan 20, 2009)

I agree erocker but its still a nice rad and a good price. Id be pissed about that too.


----------



## Exavier (Jan 20, 2009)

all I can say is, I'm damn glad it's still watertight


----------



## Exavier (Jan 21, 2009)

GOT MY HYDOR L30 
awesome, now to fire this baby up!


----------



## kyle2020 (Jan 21, 2009)

England really does have a benefit - super low winter temps!


----------



## Whilhelm (Jan 21, 2009)

wow, that's pretty cold, do you have to wear a winter jacket, gloves and a hat while you game. 

I suppose if you are playing the winter levels in Crysis it would make the game more realistic


----------



## kyle2020 (Jan 21, 2009)

Whilhelm said:


> wow, that's pretty cold, do you have to wear a winter jacket, gloves and a hat while you game.
> 
> I suppose if you are playing the winter levels in Crysis it would make the game more realistic



haha 

It was 15 degrees in the house at the time - I was at school, and everyone else was out so the heating wasnt on when I got in. Its been as low as 5 degrees on core 2 before


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 21, 2009)

DAMN! That's one of the reason's I wish I wasn't in a tropical weather!!!! Sweet weather Kyle!


----------



## kyle2020 (Jan 21, 2009)

Cold Storm said:


> DAMN! That's one of the reason's I wish I wasn't in a tropical weather!!!! Sweet weather Kyle!



its not as good as it sounds, trust me


----------



## Exavier (Jan 25, 2009)

lol ya it sucks for anything but stresstesting  but even so nice temps

my rig is in pieces on the floor so I'm currently using my mum's work pc *shhh* 

a quick question; if I'm using a Hydor L30 pump, can I mount it at a 90 degree angle so that my reservoir can be above it, or will this kill the pump's impeller/dodads? thoughts? sneeky help me out here  haha


----------



## oily_17 (Jan 25, 2009)

Exavier said:


> a quick question; if I'm using a Hydor L30 pump, can I mount it at a 90 degree angle so that my reservoir can be above it, or will this kill the pump's impeller/dodads? thoughts? sneeky help me out here  haha



Cant see it doing any harm to the pump at all.

I have seen builds with the Swiftech MCP655 mounted at 90 and no harm coming to it and with the res above the pump should help with the inlet (gravity helping the flow)


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jan 27, 2009)

There is a review of EK D5 X-Top Rev 2.  For those that have D5 pumps.
It also seems that the Scythe 120x25mm Slisptreem fans are becoming popular.  In particular the SY1225SL12SH which produces 110CFM at 37dBA


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 27, 2009)

The review is pretty sweet! I looked and found it at Sidewinder for $39.99. I think it is a nice set up if you have the motor itself..


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jan 27, 2009)

kyle2020 said:


> I love these fans. Think im going to do all my case in them - 61CFM and they are almost silent, im dead impressed.



I really like those fans.  I checked their website for the specs.  Not at the CFM I would like at 1500rpm but I may reconsider if I find out that the static pressure of those fans or other information.

Edit:

Newegg customers seem to love this fan!


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jan 27, 2009)

Cold Storm said:


> The review is pretty sweet! I looked and found it at Sidewinder for $39.99. I think it is a nice set up if you have the motor itself..


It's really tempting isn't it? I thought there was one more D5 top that did well (I believe I posted here) but can't find it at the moment


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 27, 2009)

I think there was also.. but, I'm looking at redoing my loop to fix it right, so I really might grab that since I'm going to grab one of Fit's D-Tec flow tops


----------



## intel igent (Jan 27, 2009)

detroitAC top's


----------



## alphadog0309 (Jan 28, 2009)

hey guys great thread led me to join these forums...

i had a question about placement of the radiator- if i buy a 120 x 2 radiator, would it be a good idea to cut a hole in the bottom of my case and place it there with new case feet raising it up a bit?? or is this a bad idea???


----------



## DanishDevil (Jan 28, 2009)

That would be fine, but you would have to ensure that there would be enough airflow under the case to get to the radiator.  For example, if you're putting your computer on carpet (which I don't recommend anyway) then you would have to have some fairly tall case feet to compensate.

Placement of water cooling components is really a personal choice.  Just keep in mind filling and draining the loop, and how hard you're making your pump work to get the water through the loop while taking gravity into account.


----------



## alphadog0309 (Jan 28, 2009)

thanks and also was wondering what is a cheap case that you think is good for a watercooling setup... i potentially want to go dual loop because i do have an SLI setup


----------



## DanishDevil (Jan 28, 2009)

I have a few for sale   They're not cheap though.

A lot of people really love the CoolerMaster CM 690.  They're cheap, great quality, and fairly popular for air cooling.  You could probably watercool in it too.


----------



## alphadog0309 (Jan 28, 2009)

i was looking at the 690 before but then i saw the thermaltake V9 which seems to be ok as well... did you see the element s??? looks ready for w/c from a noob standpoint... LINK

i would take your cosmos s but i dont have the $$$ right now sry...

i was actually also looking at a cosmos 1000 refurb on coolermaster.com ... its going for 89.99... does anyone have an experience with them, i dont want to buy a case with a giant dent or something missing in it


----------



## ascstinger (Jan 28, 2009)

I would advise against the slipstreams for radiator use, especially in vertical mounting situations.

I tested my slipstream vs my s-flex of around the same rating when I was testing my loop, and the slipstream just got louder and moved less air. Set the sflex on one end of my 360 and the slipstream on the other for a direct comparison. If you don't want to shell out for some s-flex's, I'd say go for some yate loons from petra's tech (which are supposedly superior to the ones on other sites) and about the same price as the slipstreams

however I could just be a blubbering idiot as I've only had my loop setup for 3 days now


----------



## DanishDevil (Jan 28, 2009)

Not sure about the refurbs, but send me a PM if you're interested in the Cosmos S, and maybe we can work something out.  I do need a few things for my new build, so maybe a partial trade could be in order


----------



## kyle2020 (Jan 28, 2009)

My loops components are up for sale if anyones interested! Im also selling my Cosmos 1000, links are in my sig!


----------



## alphadog0309 (Jan 28, 2009)

Unfortunely i'm in the US and it would cost a lot to get shipping for such a large case... Thanks a lot though I would definetly buy your cosmos s as it's already modded and ready for w/c... Sucks to be in the US huh??? Haha


----------



## DanishDevil (Jan 29, 2009)

Honestly, I could ship you the Cosmos S for around $25-30.  It would just take like 5 days.  Fedex and UPS ground can be cheap if you do it right.


----------



## Exavier (Jan 29, 2009)

finishing the first version of my water build tonight..I've taken pics all the way through so expect a couple screenies  
now to take it all apart again as soon as I have the cash for my custom paintjob..lol


----------



## Exavier (Feb 1, 2009)

as the loop goes from GPU to CPU, I see no difference from air temps on the CPU...but I still get 33c on the two cores of my X2 so I'm happy with that 
now to save and add in the quad rad + fan controller..


----------



## DOM (Feb 1, 2009)

Exavier said:


> as the loop goes from GPU to CPU, I see no difference from air temps on the CPU...but I still get 33c on the two cores of my X2 so I'm happy with that
> now to save and add in the quad rad + fan controller..



what about load water can idle as air but load is where it shows 

oh yeah wheres the pics


----------



## Exavier (Feb 2, 2009)

well in this UK weather (was snowing today) I hit 25c on the CPU and 22c idle on the GPU...up to 40s/50s load for both
I'm happy with this but I need a fan controller  lol 
I'd also quite like money to buy my two DDC pumps with the new EK/XSPC tops..

pics I took all the way through, bear with me as I host them 
FIRST OFF here's some quad pr0n; if popular I can host the original size images. 










just to whet your appetite 
my new best friend in delrin flava, thanks aquacomputer 






















a tight fit but perfect for my sandwich-stack 3+4 rad combo 


















as it is on my desk atm...HDDs hit a whopping 12c load like this.. 





closeup, props to Fitty for shipping UK  the green is just a reflection off the rounded edge..

sorry if this kills anyone's 56k..


----------



## DanishDevil (Feb 2, 2009)

Looks sweet!  What water dye is that?  I'm doing a mATX DFI case, and I'm going all out UV Orange


----------



## Exavier (Feb 2, 2009)

sweet DD, I personally have something to confess:

my name is ex and I have a UV orange addiction :shadedshu

but yeah, feser one, with all the DFI gear should look sweet, and just in case you didn't see a reminder of the case when it's done:






so now you can see what's gonna happen with that aquatube, which is mighty hot AND has holes for LEDs - white delrin is semi-opaque = UV BLING 

my second rig (lan rig for a friend who only has an integrated lappy, shed a tear) is going to be a cheap Phenom 1 tri-core + 790GX rig which I can watercool as soon as I get my upgrades for this rig (superceding + upgrading means spares) so that'll be yellow, and done in a miniature style of the TJ07..rounded


----------



## DanishDevil (Feb 2, 2009)

Looks incredible man.  I also have something to confess.

I convinced my girlfriend to pitch in $400 cash to solve my PC and UV Orange withdrawals 

Speaking of UV Orange, I'm looking to sleeve my brand new Enermax all UV Orange, but I've got a choice.  I can get the AC Ryan sleeving kit, or I can get a generic one.  I'm trying to find the best deal.

I'm also doing individual cables (like seperate sleeving for each cable on the 24 and 6 pins at least) and am trying to get a kit and matching sleeving by the foot, and I'm having a really hard time doing that.  Any suggestions?


----------



## Exavier (Feb 2, 2009)

DanishDevil said:


> Looks incredible man.  I also have something to confess.
> 
> I convinced my girlfriend to pitch in $400 cash to solve my PC and UV Orange withdrawals
> 
> ...



lmfao  dude my gf would if I'd let her, I can't bring myself to steal her uni fund...yet 

by the foot? you might want to try industrial or commercial electrician-style sites, rather than kits...you'll need a molex tool, and appropriate end connections, but other than that you can find it in bulk online on such sites...might help rather than paying $10-20 for a kit and realising you need several...I'd go AC Ryan as a basis then buy in bulk over the top of it perhaps? if you can..


----------



## DanishDevil (Feb 2, 2009)

I'd love to buy AC Ryan bulk, but I can't find it ANYWHERE!?!?!?  HALP ME!!!


----------



## Exavier (Feb 2, 2009)

maybe contact them or a US distributor? talk direct and say 

o ac ryun
kings of moddinz
plz gief halp in form of lots of sleeving KTHX TYVM


or just ask normally, but that's no fun


----------



## Cold Storm (Feb 5, 2009)

EastCoasthandle said:


> There is a review of EK D5 X-Top Rev 2.  For those that have D5 pumps.
> It also seems that the Scythe 120x25mm Slisptreem fans are becoming popular.  In particular the SY1225SL12SH which produces 110CFM at 37dBA





Cold Storm said:


> The review is pretty sweet! I looked and found it at Sidewinder for $39.99. I think it is a nice set up if you have the motor itself..





I bought the pump add on.. I thought what the hell.. Needed something nice for my birthday! lol  So, I'll be showing it all when I get it in!!

As for the fans... Yeah, I have 5 of the 110cfm/37db "slipstreams". I love those things! For some reason, those going, sound so Much better then the Yateloons that I had at 88cfm/40dbs... I also have one on the HR-03 GTX cooler, and one blowing upward.. I'm loving those fans! Can't beat them for $7.99!!!


----------



## Exavier (Feb 6, 2009)

sound awesome matey  what speed are you running them? brave man (with hardy ears) to run at 40db +
I got migraines with my stock 4870X2 cooler..lol

also I just went into town to meet Cuzza who came to Bath for a little sightsee and to drop off me a nice oldschool beige tower for my second pc.. 
so that beast (it is and all my limbs know it, carrying it by hand up a 1km hill ) will be modded and then watercooled when my new parts (waiting to see the new PA120.4 first but generally a x4 fan rad and two DDC3.2 pumps) arrive, transporting the old into the 'new' beige case


----------



## Cold Storm (Feb 7, 2009)

Exavier said:


> sound awesome matey  what speed are you running them? brave man (with hardy ears) to run at 40db +
> I got migraines with my stock 4870X2 cooler..lol
> 
> also I just went into town to meet Cuzza who came to Bath for a little sightsee and to drop off me a nice oldschool beige tower for my second pc..
> so that beast (it is and all my limbs know it, carrying it by hand up a 1km hill ) will be modded and then watercooled when my new parts (waiting to see the new PA120.4 first but generally a x4 fan rad and two DDC3.2 pumps) arrive, transporting the old into the 'new' beige case



Can't wait to see it all done for you man! Can't wait!! 

As for dbs... I've had Delta fan's running on a Xig S1283 that had db rating of 55... Those where ones that would give you migraines from the start!!! lol.. After those fans, I went away from air cooling.. Couldn't take them anymore!!


----------



## cdawall (Feb 7, 2009)

rendered











w/ mesh






watcha ya'll think
will fit a 240/360mm rad on front and dual 4x80mm on bottom


----------



## Cold Storm (Feb 7, 2009)

I hope you can show us the real thing soon Cda!!! I think it looks sweet!

All right guys got the Ek Top for the pump a few mins ago.











As you can see, It has Ek's Stamp!!! So it's real







Here is a picture with everything that came in the small lil box!












The last picture shows the o-ring that comes with the stuff. That way you can see that they do supply it. Also, you will need to change it out per Instructions stating to.


----------



## Exavier (Feb 7, 2009)

very nice C-dawg  - as my TJ will be for silence I have a little plan up my sleeve involving throwing myself at possible sponsors once I get my case anodised/powdercoated 
CS matey how loud does your D5 sound? I don't see it being worth the added cost for me over the DDC3.2 with new EK top..as I want two (for redundancy/flow)


----------



## Cold Storm (Feb 7, 2009)

Well, for it the reason for the top was this.. It was birthday money.. Plus, for me, it was better to do so. It does give it a better difference to do the change, and I have more of the ability to mod this case for where ever I want to put this pump..  I don't have to worry about the the top since it would be two fronts..


----------



## Exavier (Feb 9, 2009)

CDA is that triangular hole for looks or what? either way it looks good, I think I'd rather move the four rad holes on the base to the 'back' as there's a gap there? was thinking about a pyramid case build as they're strong due to the shape and offer good space if you can mount the motherboard suspended/on a shelf..hm


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Feb 17, 2009)

A reviews of 4 (3 after market) D5 tops are now available.
source
Are you able to tell which top performed the best and the worst (between 1.0GPM and 2.0GPM) just by looking at the design?


----------



## Cold Storm (Feb 17, 2009)

EastCoasthandle said:


> A reviews of 4 (3 after market) D5 tops are now available.
> source
> Are you able to tell which top performed the best and the worst (between 1.0GPM and 2.0GPM) just by looking at the design?



Never seen the Detroit Therm tops... I gotta say, i do love my EK top rev 2!! Made my life so much better with the loop! SOOOO much!!!


----------



## Sasqui (Feb 21, 2009)

*HAF case - 320 radiator inside on top - Modding case Fan?*

I orginally had this thread in Case Modding sneekypeet suggested it here (so blame him ) - http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?p=1223029#post1223029

Here's the story:

Building a W/C HAF case.  Bottom part is done - plan to post that soon.

I'm working on the top where the radiator will go.  It's a 320 Swiftech, I'm also putting a Koolance fan/temp monitor control PCB at the front top.

Wondering how best to use (or not use) the top 240mm fan in the mix.  The radiators will have 3 x 120mm fans, with RPM controlled by the Koolance monitor.

The idea of push/pull is good, so I'd like to keep the fan, 

Here's the top:






Here's the top with the 240mm fan:






Here's the radiator on the fan:






Here's the radiator without the fan:






Looking to reduce dead spots... so here's the parts to cut off.   I obvisouly can't cut out the center of the fan.  






What to do?  Thoughs and advice appreciated.


----------



## erocker (Feb 21, 2009)

That fan really isn't going to cut it for pushing air through a radiator.  If you want push/pull, six low/med. speed 120mm's would work best.


----------



## Sasqui (Feb 21, 2009)

Hate to leave the 240mm doing nothing, so in this pic, there are 3 x 120mm rads on the bottom of the radiator, the fan on top is helping - pushing air out (down towards the table).

Trying to use everything at hand...


----------



## DanishDevil (Feb 21, 2009)

That is one angry kitty 

I agree, push/pull with low/med yate loons would be best.


----------



## erocker (Feb 21, 2009)

Yeah, using 3 120's for push and the 240 as the pull should work well.


----------



## Sasqui (Feb 21, 2009)

DanishDevil said:


> That is one angry kitty



Eh, she looks evil, but she's just a creampuff with claws 




DanishDevil said:


> That is one angry kitty
> 
> I agree, push/pull with low/med yate loons would be best.





erocker said:


> Yeah, using 3 120's for push and the 240 as the pull should work well.



I think so to... going to trim off the shroud where it covers the radiator, that should give a few more square inches of flow, hence the angry kitty pic:


----------



## DarkEgo (Feb 21, 2009)

Has anyone tried a Swiftech F fitting. I was thinking about using this right before my CPU block so I would have 1/2 tubing going to my CPU and 1/4 to my NB. Would this help or hurt flow rates?


----------



## NastyHabits (Feb 21, 2009)

DarkEgo said:


> Has anyone tried a Swiftech F fitting. I was thinking about using this right before my CPU block so I would have 1/2 tubing going to my CPU and 1/4 to my NB. Would this help or hurt flow rates?



I don't have any experience with those, but it stands to reason that if your NB block currently impedes the flow, it could help.


----------



## johnnyfiive (Feb 23, 2009)

H, 2, oooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!

I've been whoring these pics lately cause I'm excited about the new setup.











D-Tek Fuzion II
D-Tek DB-1
D-Tek 1/2in Fittings
Swiftec MCP320-Res Radiator
7/16in ID | 5/8in OD Tubing

Loving it so far. I plan on getting the D-Tek GFX II combo to cool the video card. Do you guys think my current setup would be up to cooling the video card as well? I know the D-Tek pump is not the strongest, but I'm going for quietness and not MAXIMUM overclocking. I should be okay with the 3x120 Rad no?


----------



## Sasqui (Feb 23, 2009)

^ Looks good, what did it do for your temps - what'd you have before that?



DarkEgo said:


> Has anyone tried a Swiftech F fitting. I was thinking about using this right before my CPU block so I would have 1/2 tubing going to my CPU and 1/4 to my NB. Would this help or hurt flow rates?



Small loss at the fitting, they're usually about 0.37"-0.4" ID.  Obviously your CPU block won't be gettting as much flow - with part of it going to the NB.  But... perhaps a cooler NB and slight loss to the CPU will give more gain.

I personally don't like the idea of using splitters, though I don't have any experience to talk about.  In a series circuit, you know the flow is going to be the same throughout, and I think it's cleaner in the end.


----------



## johnnyfiive (Feb 23, 2009)

Sasqui said:


> ^ Looks good, what did it do for your temps - what'd you have before that?



Prior to the water setup at 3.5Ghz it got stupid hot. Idle was 40-45c and load was 60-65C. I never ran it for long periods of time because it got so hot. The cooling setup was a Scythe Katana II and a 120mm fan. With the water setup I'm idling around 30-35c and full load has not passed 47c. I'm in Tucson AZ and its been pretty warm lately, low 80's. My house stays around 74-76F during the day. So 30-35c idle is pretty good.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Feb 23, 2009)

johnnyfiive said:


> Prior to the water setup at 3.5Ghz it got stupid hot. Idle was 40-45c and load was 60-65C. I never ran it for long periods of time because it got so hot. The cooling setup was a Scythe Katana II and a 120mm fan. With the water setup I'm idling around 30-35c and full load has not passed 47c. I'm in Tucson AZ and its been pretty warm lately, low 80's. My house stays around 74-76F during the day. So 30-35c idle is pretty good.



That's not bad at all.  Good job


----------



## johnnyfiive (Feb 23, 2009)

EastCoast, do you think cooling my video card with my current setup (pump and rad) would be an option? I'm planning to get the D-Tek GFX II to keep my 260 cool. Will the DB-1 pump and the rad be able to handle it?


----------



## Sasqui (Feb 23, 2009)

johnnyfiive said:


> Prior to the water setup at 3.5Ghz it got stupid hot. Idle was 40-45c and load was 60-65C. I never ran it for long periods of time because it got so hot. The cooling setup was a Scythe Katana II and a 120mm fan. With the water setup I'm idling around 30-35c and full load has not passed 47c. I'm in Tucson AZ and its been pretty warm lately, low 80's. My house stays around 74-76F during the day. So 30-35c idle is pretty good.



Ditto - @75f ambient that is a really good delta.    Don't have those ambient temps here in new hampshire atm 

Like the added VRM chipset fan.


----------



## johnnyfiive (Feb 23, 2009)

I'm gonna wish I had your current temps when July comes around. It's going to be ridiculous hot here. Last summer we had multiple weeks of 105+.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Feb 23, 2009)

johnnyfiive said:


> EastCoast, do you think cooling my video card with my current setup (pump and rad) would be an option? I'm planning to get the D-Tek GFX II to keep my 260 cool. Will the DB-1 pump and the rad be able to handle it?



Yes, it is an option.  However, you have to keep in mind that you still want to actively cool components on your video card that would have been cooled from your OEM HSF.  That means either
A. Adjusting intake fan speed to accommodate
B. Placing a fan near your video card for antiquate cooling.  

What components you want to cool?
Ram ICs
mosfets/vregs
overall video card
What that means is that you will need to find heatsinks for those components as well.  Specially if you plan on overclocking.


----------



## johnnyfiive (Feb 23, 2009)

I only want to water cool the video card and CPU of course. Fans will be installed in the case to keep the ram, video card and overall air flow in check.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Feb 23, 2009)

Example of what I am talking about can be found here.  The only exception is that you won't need the GPU heat sink.


----------



## johnnyfiive (Feb 23, 2009)

Wouldn't D-Tek's heatsink keep the vrm and ram cool?


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Feb 23, 2009)

johnnyfiive said:


> Wouldn't D-Tek's heatsink keep the vrm and ram cool?


Regardless if the solution comes from Thermalright, Dtek or whoever, you still want to actively cool those components as your OEM HSF did.


----------



## driver66 (Feb 23, 2009)

^^^ Sexy!!!


----------



## Sasqui (Feb 24, 2009)

johnnyfiive said:


> Prior to the water setup at 3.5Ghz it got stupid hot. Idle was 40-45c and load was 60-65C. I never ran it for long periods of time because it got so hot. The cooling setup was a Scythe Katana II and a 120mm fan. With the water setup I'm idling around 30-35c and full load has not passed 47c. I'm in Tucson AZ and its been pretty warm lately, low 80's. My house stays around 74-76F during the day. So 30-35c idle is pretty good.



Hey dude, you changed your pics.  Your rig isn't naked anymore!  The window is great - no more blaring cold cathode.

Is the radiator the swiftech 320 version with the resevoir at the top?


----------



## johnnyfiive (Feb 24, 2009)

Sasqui said:


> Hey dude, you changed your pics.  Your rig isn't naked anymore!  The window is great - no more blaring cold cathode.
> 
> Is the radiator the swiftech 320 version with the resevoir at the top?



Yep, updated the pics. 
The radiator is a Swiftech 320 with the res, yep.


----------



## Sasqui (Feb 24, 2009)

johnnyfiive said:


> The radiator is a Swiftech 320 with the res, yep.



Cool you did it right, no need for an external resevoir, your setup is exactly why they made that model (barbs down).  Does that rad has a fillport at the resevoir end  - the top in your config?  It looks like it.


----------



## johnnyfiive (Feb 24, 2009)

Yep, fill port is at the top of the rad/res. This is the exact setup I was going for. I didn't want anymore parts or tubing inside the case other than the required parts. Having the res built into the rad makes things much easier. Bleeding the system is painless, adding fluid is very easy, etc. Its perfect imo.


----------



## Cold Storm (Feb 27, 2009)

I was looking at pump/res combos and came along this combo. I was wondering what you guys thought of it. Pumps out 198gph.. It's different...


----------



## DanishDevil (Feb 27, 2009)

Haven't heard of it before except for on PPCs, but it looks like they basically built a res around a small aquarium pump, right?  Because that's an underwater pump.


----------



## Cold Storm (Feb 27, 2009)

Yeah, it looks like that... I am thinking of putting water under the cards.. Just don't quite know yet..


----------



## DanishDevil (Feb 27, 2009)

Price is definitely nice for the combo


----------



## Cold Storm (Feb 27, 2009)

Yeah, when you look at the Lang pump/res combo being around $150 dollars.. It's great. Just gotta see about it all..


----------



## DanishDevil (Feb 27, 2009)

I just got me a Corsair rebranded Laing D5 for $45 

Looks like I'll be able to actually join the watercooling club again fairly soon


----------



## Wile E (Feb 28, 2009)

Cold Storm said:


> Yeah, when you look at the Lang pump/res combo being around $150 dollars.. It's great. Just gotta see about it all..



A Laing DDC 3.2 with the XSPC Reservoir top costs $115 at Petra's. It's a much better combo. That one you linked only does 1.8M of head, the Laing does 4.5M all on it's own, let alone if you add the XSPC top to it. That means the pump combo you listed won't do too well under higher pressures caused by restrictive or multiple blocks.


----------



## Cold Storm (Feb 28, 2009)

Yeah, your right there. I can do the same set up I have now, for my pump, for just $.92 more then the Laing DDC 3.2 combo. 

Just looked pretty neat... lol


----------



## viczulis (Mar 6, 2009)

Well I went through every page in this thread. I'm at the point of buying but got a  ?

First off, for now I want to do my CPU and NB/SB

D-Tex Fuzion V-2 CPU Block - seems everyone agrees this is good

Laing DDC 3.2 Pump with XSPC Reservoir Top  Seems everyone agrees this is good too.

Bitspower BP-WBAIX48NSF-B (NB/SB all in one) Block

Seems like alot of Radiators are out of stock but I'm looking at this one and it is stock.

BLK Ice GTX 360 Rad 

Now my ?? is what I'm buying will be good for CPU and NB/SB but if and when I do my video cards will they be enough. I see alot of people putting in two pumps and 2 rads. 

I'm not thinking of doing cards now because of might be switching out. Dam blocks for cards aren't cheap  Let alone doing 2 of them. But you never know might want to do in future.

Would this setup do my cards to with out adding another pump/rad ??


----------



## Wile E (Mar 6, 2009)

viczulis said:


> Well I went through every page in this thread. I'm at the point of buying but got a  ?
> 
> First off, for now I want to do my CPU and NB/SB
> 
> ...


If silence at the same performance levels is your goal, you can put all of it on one loop. If max OC potential is your goal, I suggest doing 2 loops/rads/pumps.

And as a fair warning, the GTX rads need pretty high flow fans to reach their max potential, due to their fairly restrictive fin design.


----------



## viczulis (Mar 6, 2009)

Can you recommend a Rad , i'm OCed now to 4.10  24/7 but wanting to see how much farther I can go.


----------



## Wile E (Mar 6, 2009)

viczulis said:


> Can you recommend a Rad , i'm OCed now to 4.10  24/7 but wanting to see how much farther I can go.



The Swiftech MCR-320 is probably the best bang for the buck rad that will perform great with medium speed fans.


----------



## johnnyfiive (Mar 6, 2009)

^^ I agree.


----------



## viczulis (Mar 6, 2009)

Thanks guys I ended up ordering :

PTS Ultimate Radiator Combo MCR320 QP Edition with 3 yate loon 120 mm fans (med)


----------



## viczulis (Mar 8, 2009)

Are these top of the line? Fat Boy fittings I'm thinking of ordering these to replace and to install in all I buy. From blocks, rads, res. The compression ones are nice but they tend to scare me a little. specially the price

http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=318&cat=0&page=1


----------



## viczulis (Mar 8, 2009)

Oops sorry, maybe I souldnt be posting in here.  This is a water cooling club and I'm not there yet. Holler at me if I should go else where with ????s


----------



## oily_17 (Mar 8, 2009)

I use Fatboy's they have a slightly bigger ID I think..but really dont see it harming your flow too much using other 1/2" barbs...with a good pump I would not worry!!


----------



## NJHC (Mar 8, 2009)

Well, 
Kinda new to this forum but not to watercooling. So I think this club is up my alley.

I have a new build that I'm putting together. I wll be cooling an I7 920 and 2 GTX 285's.

I know most of the parts I'm going to get. I'm just trying to decide if I want to run one or two loops. Once I decide on that I will be posting a build log.


----------



## DanishDevil (Mar 8, 2009)

I'm about ready to watercool my mATX system.  Here's what I've got so far:

Laing D5 (Corsair variant)
HWLabs Black Ice GT Stealth 240mm
EK 150 Res
Tygon or Masterkleer R-3603 7/16ID tubing

What CPU block should I get?  I can get a Fuzion v2 for $54 + ship, and I might have a used GTZ lined up for me.  I'll be cooling nothing more than a Wolfdale for now.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 12, 2009)

Someone is offering free watercooling equiptment.


----------



## Sasqui (Mar 12, 2009)

viczulis said:


> Are these top of the line? Fat Boy fittings I'm thinking of ordering these to replace and to install in all I buy. From blocks, rads, res. The compression ones are nice but they tend to scare me a little. specially the price
> 
> http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=318&cat=0&page=1



I noticed the Koolance barbs have a choke where the threads are - not a full bore like those bad boys.  I think the DD ones are cheaper too.

After using (or trying to use) some Koolance products on my new build, I'm not crazy about thier stuff.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 12, 2009)

DanishDevil said:


> I'm about ready to watercool my mATX system.  Here's what I've got so far:
> 
> Laing D5 (Corsair variant)
> HWLabs Black Ice GT Stealth 240mm
> ...



You should do fine with the Fuzion v2


----------



## DanishDevil (Mar 12, 2009)

Good because I ordered it last night


----------



## Cold Storm (Mar 12, 2009)

You'll like the Fusion v2 chip cooler! The only other thing I would buy besides that cooler would be the heatkiller... But, the price on it is a killer!!


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 13, 2009)

I wonder how well this Swiftech MCR220-QP Stackable 2x120 performs?


----------



## Wile E (Mar 13, 2009)

If the 3x120 version performs as well as the standard counterpart, I will get one to help simplify my setup.


----------



## Cold Storm (Mar 13, 2009)

I'm quite wondering how it will do! Pretty nice thought to try to do..  The charts don't look quite bad.. Just don't know if I'd drop around $150ish on it all..


----------



## Binge (Mar 13, 2009)

EastCoasthandle said:


> I wonder how well this Swiftech MCR220-QP Stackable 2x120 performs?



http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=220874

Lots of results on those sandwich rads.


----------



## viczulis (Mar 13, 2009)

Feels like Christmas, went out shopping came home had 6 packages for me. Any body see something I missed. I think I got everything.

Now I got to figure out how i'm going to clean everything. Distilled water was it 
I should of been writing things down.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Mar 13, 2009)

Binge said:


> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=220874
> 
> Lots of results on those sandwich rads.



Just as I thought, in order to sandwich rads like this you need a high CFM fan like a Delta, etc.


----------



## Cold Storm (Mar 13, 2009)

EastCoasthandle said:


> Just as I thought, in order to sandwich rads like this you need a high CFM fan like a Delta, etc.



Yeah... That or High RPM fans that's going to be noise as hell...

Viczulis: have fun! Just take your time man!


----------



## mlee49 (Mar 20, 2009)

*First WC loop in the works!*

So I jump on board with a custom water cooling setup for a single cpu loop and I'm in need of a bit of help.  So far I've got the rad and block but need help on the res, pump, and add-ons.  

So far I've got a DTek V2 block and a Black Ice Xtreme II 240mm Rad.  I am debating a Swiftech MC Micro res and a MCP655-B pump. For my first and only step to WC is this too much or should I go less?

I've got 1/2" barbs on the res and I'll be picking up chrome fittings all around.  

My only question is mounting the rad and fans.  I'm thinking of going on top of my case but I'm pretty sure I would have to cut the case.  Any suggestions on mounting?


----------



## Sasqui (Mar 20, 2009)

mlee49 said:


> So I jump on board with a custom water cooling setup for a single cpu loop and I'm in need of a bit of help.  So far I've got the rad and block but need help on the res, pump, and add-ons.
> 
> So far I've got a DTek V2 block and a Black Ice Xtreme II 240mm Rad.  I am debating a Swiftech MC Micro res and a MCP655-B pump. For my first and only step to WC is this too much or should I go less?
> 
> ...



I built a system for a friend using that case, it's not bad, though he's seen my new HAF and now wants more space 

For a 2x120 radiator, you should have enough room towards the front of the case by taking up one or two of the 5.25" drive bays.  That'll mean the top of the case needs cutting for ventilation.  You're going to need to get creative to fit the pump and reservoir and tubing.

The alternative of mounting above might be better as you won't need to make large cuts -  all you'll need are holes to mount posts, holes for the tubing and fan wires.  It'll also leave more room for the pump and reservoir.


----------



## Wile E (Mar 21, 2009)

mlee49 said:


> So I jump on board with a custom water cooling setup for a single cpu loop and I'm in need of a bit of help.  So far I've got the rad and block but need help on the res, pump, and add-ons.
> 
> So far I've got a DTek V2 block and a Black Ice Xtreme II 240mm Rad.  I am debating a Swiftech MC Micro res and a MCP655-B pump. For my first and only step to WC is this too much or should I go less?
> 
> ...


You might also want to consider using a RadBox for mounting. You'd only have to drill holes for the tubing.

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCB-120-R2.asp


----------



## viczulis (Mar 25, 2009)

I'm FINISHED  I think it turned out pretty good. I know some one will say something about wires  But thats as good as it gets I hate trying to hide wires.  Cores are at 36 -35C Idle Load running orthos is 53-52C wish I would of ran Idle and load temps before  So is that decent ? Also repainted front of 1200 back to black. Here's my pics


----------



## johnnyfiive (Mar 27, 2009)

Looks good to me vic. Those temps seem decent to me. I'm a Phenom II owner though so I'm not too informed on how the E8400's run temp wise.


----------



## viczulis (Mar 27, 2009)

After a day settling in realtemp is now showing Idle 29-28C


----------



## Binge (Mar 27, 2009)

Molly i7 updated.  More water cooling pics/results/future plans.

http://forums.techpowerup.com/showpost.php?p=1283759&postcount=59


----------



## Cold Storm (Mar 27, 2009)

Sounds pretty good man! Can't wait to see it done and going


----------



## 3dsage (Mar 29, 2009)

Well fellas welcome your newest member 

This is going to be my first WC setup. Everything should be in my possession by the end of the week.

Specs:
CPU-Ror my 720B.E
Pump- D5
RAD- Black ICE GT 240
Res- Alphacool Bay Res
CPU Block- Apogee GT
All going to be 7/16TH Tygon.

GPU- For my V-Modded 8800GT
Pump -D4
RAD- Black ICE MicroII
Res- EK MultiOption Res
GPU Block- MAZE 5
All 1/2" tubing

BTW I think the D5 should provide enough juice for both Blocks, so I might just use one pump.
Im getting all my gear off of here. I'll post pics and results when I'm done.

Also will probably be asking you guys alot of questions


----------



## MRCL (Mar 29, 2009)

3dsage said:


> Well fellas welcome your newest member
> 
> This is going to be my first WC setup. Everything should be in my possession by the end of the week.
> 
> ...



Heh we have something in common then. I also receive the parts for my first wc setup this week


----------



## 3dsage (Mar 29, 2009)

MRCL said:


> Heh we have something in common then. I also receive the parts for my first wc setup this week



 Cool what are you getting?


----------



## MRCL (Mar 29, 2009)

3dsage said:


> Cool what are you getting?



Laing DCC-1t pump
XSPC Laing DCC res
Black Ice GTX 360 rad
Watercool Heatkiller Rev 3 CPU block
And I'll be using 10/8mm clear PUR tubing.

For now I'll just cool the CPU, very likely add GPU and Chipset later.


----------



## 3dsage (Mar 29, 2009)

MRCL said:


> Laing DCC-1t pump
> XSPC Laing DCC res
> Black Ice GTX 360 rad
> 
> ...



Cool

I got a great deal on the Maze 5 for my GPU so I couldnt pass it up otherwise I wouldnt have WC it.
 Plus its V'moded and I need to crank those V's up some more


----------



## MRCL (Mar 29, 2009)

3dsage said:


> Cool
> 
> I got a great deal on the Maze 5 for my GPU so I couldnt pass it up otherwise I wouldnt have WC it.
> Plus its V'moded and I need to crank those V's up some more



Nice In my case its more that the air cooling solution on my 4850s is actually more than good, they both don't exceed 60° C. But eh. 

Have fun assembling then, I'll check out your work for sure! Feels somehow good not to be the only newbie right now


----------



## 3dsage (Mar 29, 2009)

MRCL said:


> Nice In my case its more that the air cooling solution on my 4850s is actually more than good, they both don't exceed 60° C. But eh.
> 
> Have fun assembling then, I'll check out your work for sure! Feels somehow good not to be the only newbie right now



2 4850's under 60C, thats ideal.


The 8800GT is a single slot cooling solution which is in no way helping me keep the card cool, although at 1.25V I dont exceed 72C (fan 75%), it sounds pretty annoying.

I'm hoping to be able to go up to 1.4 or 1.5V whatever gets me to 850Core, and keep my card under 50C.

BTW looking forward to seeing your results


----------



## Wile E (Mar 30, 2009)

3dsage said:


> 2 4850's under 60C, thats ideal.
> 
> 
> The 8800GT is a single slot cooling solution which is in no way helping me keep the card cool, although at 1.25V I dont exceed 72C (fan 75%), it sounds pretty annoying.
> ...



Don't run 1.5V on an 8800GT 24/7 unless you want it to fry, trust me.  lol


----------



## 3dsage (Mar 30, 2009)

Wile E said:


> Don't run 1.5V on an 8800GT 24/7 unless you want it to fry, trust me.  lol



Thanks for the heads up 

Whats the highest 24/7 V's you suggest?


----------



## Wile E (Mar 31, 2009)

3dsage said:


> Thanks for the heads up
> 
> Whats the highest 24/7 V's you suggest?



I'd say 1.35-1.4V


----------



## MRCL (Mar 31, 2009)

So the new case has arrived, I can pick it up today. Man I really really REALLY hope the wc parts are arriving tomorrow. It would be perfect as it's my day off then. *prays to watercooling gods*


----------



## 3dsage (Mar 31, 2009)

MRCL said:


> So the new case has arrived, I can pick it up today. Man I really really REALLY hope the wc parts are arriving tomorrow. It would be perfect as it's my day off then. *prays to watercooling gods*



You have to sacrifice one HS to the AIR GOD's and the WC gods will listen



     Well i looks like due to circumstances i'm only going to be running on loop for both my gpu and cpu.

Although i'm gonna have 2x Rads one BLack Ice 240 and a Black Ice micro 2x80, is there anyway to throw those 2 in the same loop? Will it do any good? 

I think the D5 can handle the extra length it will add to the loop.


----------



## MRCL (Apr 2, 2009)

3dsage said:


> You have to sacrifice one HS to the AIR GOD's and the WC gods will listen
> 
> 
> 
> ...



There are no WC gods. Just got a mail from the store... they have troubles with the distributor from Germany, so my order will be delayed ufn. Yay.


----------



## mlee49 (Apr 2, 2009)

Wile E said:


> You might also want to consider using a RadBox for mounting. You'd only have to drill holes for the tubing.
> 
> http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCB-120-R2.asp



I think with my case it would either cover up the exaust fan and the vga port or my psu's fan.  I'm thinking I'm going to mount it topside and drill into the case.  I dont know what to do, I still dont have a pump, tubing, clamps, or a res(on its way) yet.  Im gonna play with it and hopefully test it on my back up 939 set so if I jack anything up I'll be fine with it.


----------



## Wile E (Apr 2, 2009)

mlee49 said:


> I think with my case it would either cover up the exaust fan and the vga port or my psu's fan.  I'm thinking I'm going to mount it topside and drill into the case.  I dont know what to do, I still dont have a pump, tubing, clamps, or a res(on its way) yet.  Im gonna play with it and hopefully test it on my back up 939 set so if I jack anything up I'll be fine with it.



No, it sits out away from all the fans with spacers.


----------



## mlee49 (Apr 3, 2009)

So does it sit out away from my outward 120 and go up or down?  Up will slightly block my psu fan, down will hit my vga cables.

I'll snap some pictures and see what would work for my setup.

I still need some last items, I've decided on the Swiftech 655 pump but dont know where the best place to purchase it is.  I've checked out jap-tech, xoxide, and a couple others for a price range of $75ish, is that good or should I go elsewere?
Also any recommendations on tubing?  I see a bunch of Micro-resistant tubing that I dont think I'll need.  Also UV resistant tube to "protect" the chemicals inside.  Is this ok tubing: http://www.jab-tech.com/ClearFLEX-60-Tubing-1-2-ID-5-8-OD-pr-2829.html


----------



## Wile E (Apr 3, 2009)

mlee49 said:


> So does it sit out away from my outward 120 and go up or down?  Up will slightly block my psu fan, down will hit my vga cables.
> 
> I'll snap some pictures and see what would work for my setup.
> 
> ...



Mounting with a rad box gives you roughly the same amount of clearance out from the back of the case as the thickness of 2 1/2 - 3 case fans. There is plenty of clearance for cables and airflow.

As far as whether the rad overhangs up or down, is entirely up to you.


----------



## mlee49 (Apr 3, 2009)

Thank you Wile E.  I think I'm going to order from Jab Tech, good pricing and good rep.


----------



## Cold Storm (Apr 4, 2009)

Jab-tech and Performance PC is all ways the first two sites I go to on things... Both sites can get my stuff shipped to my door on a Saturday, when I order it on Thursday.

Then, after those I'll go Sidewinder. 

But, if i can't find it, I'll try Petra and Frozen next... they are good also, but seem to have the "major" things out of stock all the time..


----------



## RedRaider (Apr 4, 2009)

*SIDEWINDER COMPUTERS* has the best service in the industry, period...

I have had (3) HORRIBLE experiences with HANK (aka. PPC).  HANK will never see my money again...

FrozenCPU is just whacked out on something, thinking I would ever pay those ridiculous shipping rates MARK hits people with...

JOHN (aka. Jab-Tech) would be my choice only if GARY (aka. SidewinderComputers) was out of stock and not going to stock an item in the future...


----------



## mcoffey (Apr 4, 2009)

I'm new here, but can I play too

Some pics of my main build and specs.

Hardware:

CPU: Q9650 4.25, 1.37v, 9x472 FSB
GPU: SLI EVGA GTX 280 756/1566/1248
MEM: GSkill DDR-3 1600, CAS 8 timings, 1888 Mem Speed, 2:1 divider
MB: EVGA 790i Ultra
HD: Seagate 250's in Raid 0
PSU: Corsair HX 1000

Cooling:

CPU Loop 1: EK Supreme, Twin TC PA 120.3, Twin D-5's
GPU Loop 2: EVGA Hydro FC blocks, Twin TC PA 120.3, Twin D-5's
Chipset Loop 3: BP NB/SB combo blocks, BP mosfet blocks, Single TC PA 120.3, Single DDC-3.2 XSPC top.

Controls:

Main Case: CyrstalFontz 635 USB fan controller
Rad Box: Sunbeam Rheobus EXTREME - 6 Channel 30 Watt Fan Controller 5.25"
Fans Main Case: All Yate Loon D12SM-12 x 8. Average RPM 975 
Fans Rad Box: All Zalman ZM-F3 x 12. Average RPM 1100

Misc:

All BP fittings, except custom copper high flow elbows for rad interconnection in Rad Box
All Tubing Feser 1/2-3/4 UV Blue
2 White CCFL's, 2 UV Blue CCFL's
Sunbeam 4 port Molex Power Port x 2

Case:

Mountain Mods : Pinnacle 24 for main case
Mountial Mods : Custom Monacle 24 for Rad Box

















That's pretty much everything.

andyc


----------



## RedRaider (Apr 4, 2009)

Mcoffey...

I'm calling you out on your VaporWare...


----------



## mcoffey (Apr 4, 2009)

RedRaider said:


> Mcoffey...
> 
> I'm calling you out on your VaporWare...



Thanks, but now I'm all confused:rofl:

andyc


----------



## 2lowSniper (Apr 4, 2009)

Damn that's a sexy Beast Andy! haha


----------



## RedRaider (Apr 4, 2009)

Mcoffey....  You have one sick ass build...


----------



## mcoffey (Apr 4, 2009)

2lowSniper said:


> Damn that's a sexy Beast Andy! haha





RedRaider said:


> Mcoffey....  You have one sick ass build...



Thanks guys, my pride and joy right there

andyc


----------



## Sadasius (Apr 7, 2009)

Oh thanks for posting your rig mcoffey. Thought I was not going to see her again.....


----------



## 3dsage (Apr 7, 2009)

Question for you guys regarding my loop. let me know if this an efficient way to run it.

Res- Pump - Cpu block - Vga block - Rad -

Specs of setup;
Res- Alphacool bay 
Pump- D5
Cpu block- Apogee GT
Vga Block- Maze 5
Rad- Black Ice Micro II 2x80mm
All run on 7/16" ID tubing.


----------



## mlee49 (Apr 7, 2009)

Any last minute changes I should make?






+

240mm Black Ice rad
Dtek V2 block
Micro res

Anythoughts, comments?  I'm thinking this will be all I need for now and just add some Distilled water and test it for 20+hours for leaks.  Thanks to this guide and the help of the members for further support!


----------



## SparkyJJO (Apr 7, 2009)

I prefer Swiftech rads over black ice but that's me 

I'd take pics of mine to show off but I only have my cell phone with me  and the pics I have online are out of date.


----------



## Sadasius (Apr 7, 2009)

@ mlee49.....For the Black Ice series of rads I use Black Ice GTX's only. The rest are too much like crap for me to care. The reason why I use them is because I am half deaf anyway and don't mind the noise of the San Ace fans that are in push/pull in my setup. The stealth and other models are not that great and the Swifty rad would be much better in performance. The stealth and other crappy Black Ice models are good for a door stop and that's pretty much it.


----------



## Sadasius (Apr 7, 2009)

3dsage said:


> Question for you guys regarding my loop. let me know if this an efficient way to run it.
> 
> Res- Pump - Cpu block - Vga block - Rad -
> 
> ...



Yes it is!


----------



## 3dsage (Apr 8, 2009)

Testing for leaks ATM, so far been goin for 3hrs. All is well, took long as hell to get all the air out the system.

Fluid i'm using is Coolermaster Thermal conductivity fluid. Its a little lighter than in the pix, I just wanna drink it






Danger Den Maze 5 on the V-modded 8800gt, I know its old so what, you wanna fite bout it






Sexy Apogee GT






This D5 is a beast, i guess its fixed at the highest speed, and that water gushes at the resevoir.


----------



## mcoffey (Apr 8, 2009)

Yep...nice looking rig so far 3dsage..stuffs a blast isn't it. And yeah..a D-5 can move fluid pretty fast.

You should see the fluid move when you do something like this Couple of D-5's with EK v2 tops.






andyc


----------



## 3dsage (Apr 8, 2009)

Lol, thats some cool shit. My res will probably crack with that kind of power.

Yeah, Water is alot funner than messing with Air so far.


----------



## Wile E (Apr 8, 2009)

3dsage said:


> Testing for leaks ATM, so far been goin for 3hrs. All is well, took long as hell to get all the air out the system.
> 
> Fluid i'm using is Coolermaster Thermal conductivity fluid. Its a little lighter than in the pix, I just wanna drink it
> 
> ...


The only thing you have to be careful about with leak testing the way you are, is that sometimes when you move the loop into it's home, a new leak will develop from a fitting that was just barely holding it's seal. I always leak test with the loop fully setup in it's home, and just don't put power to anything but the pump.


----------



## 3dsage (Apr 8, 2009)

Wile E said:


> The only thing you have to be careful about with leak testing the way you are, is that sometimes when you move the loop into it's home, a new leak will develop from a fitting that was just barely holding it's seal. I always leak test with the loop fully setup in it's home, and just don't put power to anything but the pump.



Thats sound like a good plan, How do I turn the pump on without turning on the PC?

Also I put some Teflon tape on all the barbs, was thata bad or good idea?


----------



## Wile E (Apr 8, 2009)

3dsage said:


> Thats sound like a good plan, How do I turn the pump on without turning on the PC?
> 
> Also I put some Teflon tape on all the barbs, was thata bad or good idea?



Unplug your psu from everything but the pump, unplug it from the wall, and turn off the switch. Take a paperclip, and bend it to connect the green-wired pin with any black pins on the 20/24 pin connector. Plug the psu back in, turn on the switch, and it should turn on.

And teflon tape shouldn't be needed, but as long as none of it is in the water stream, you should be fine.


----------



## technicks (Apr 8, 2009)

I would not put the tape on it but i cant say it bad either.
When i ordered my stuff i also got a 24 pin bridge connector.
So i build everything is the case, get a second psu or use your own but do not connect anything to your mobo. In my case i can just switch on the psu and the pump starts running.
Then when the system is filled up and leek tested i use my own psu thats in the case.


----------



## 3dsage (Apr 8, 2009)

Wile E said:


> Unplug your psu from everything but the pump, unplug it from the wall, and turn off the switch. Take a paperclip, and bend it to connect the green-wired pin with any black pins on the 20/24 pin connector. Plug the psu back in, turn on the switch, and it should turn on.
> 
> And teflon tape shouldn't be needed, but as long as none of it is in the water stream, you should be fine.



Nice man, cool trick I just learned.

I used teflon tape cuz I did get leaks at first on some fittings, the O-ring wasnt seating right it was getting stretched out on the base the more I tightened it. So I figured it was the only solution. 

@ techniks, I see you did plan ahead with the psu issue.


Also thats an awesome looking rig man.



EDIT: Got it working with the paper clip, Nice!


----------



## 3dsage (Apr 12, 2009)

I added a Second Rad (DD Black Ice GT 240) to my loop and I got a nice temp drop. Just wanted to share this with you guys, I think its amazing what kind of temps i'm getting. 

The pic is of my idle temps, Also my load temps decreased about 5-6C on both gpu and cpu.

BTW cpu 1.55V // Gpu 1.40V//  (2D)


----------



## technicks (Apr 12, 2009)

I doubt those temps are correct.


----------



## 3dsage (Apr 12, 2009)

technicks said:


> I doubt those temps are correct.



Lol  4C on one of my core, I beleive the temp drop is real though.


----------



## Cold Storm (Apr 12, 2009)

Where do you live? 3dsage?


----------



## viczulis (Apr 12, 2009)

Where you live Alaska


----------



## 3dsage (Apr 12, 2009)

Cold Storm said:


> Where do you live? 3dsage?



NW Burbs of Chicago 
Those where taken at night and its like mid 30's (F), 
My Rads are sitting by the window and my rigs out in the open.



viczulis said:


> Where you live Alaska



I would hate that


----------



## mlee49 (Apr 14, 2009)

Can someone help explain the use of a "top" in a loop?  I'm not sure what the importance is for, flow?  I'm a WC noob I know so any help is awesome.


----------



## DanishDevil (Apr 14, 2009)

"Tops" as they're referred to are either for a pump or for a waterblock.

Ex. 1: Fit's acrylic tops for the DTek Fuzions are for aesthetics (they're clear plexi) and improve flow.

Ex. 2: XSPC's pump tops do a number of things like increase pump flow, water pressure, etc.


----------



## mlee49 (Apr 14, 2009)

I'm assuming not absolutely necessary in most single loop setups.


----------



## DanishDevil (Apr 14, 2009)

Well it's kind of like if you have a car.  Let's say you want some more oomph, so you bolt on a better exhaust.  It's really just up to you.

Tops are replacements, not addons.





Image taken from Madshrimps.be

The copper is the base, and the black plastic is the mid-plate and top.  Not all blocks have a midplate *and* top, but the DTek Fuzion v1 does.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Apr 14, 2009)

You need to look at that link again


----------



## Cold Storm (Apr 14, 2009)

Well going to do a full over hall on everything in the next 2 months.

Case, Rad, CPU Block, res, fittings...


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Apr 14, 2009)

Hey guys,how often do i need to flush my system out and change the water? Its been running flawless for at least 6mths.


----------



## Wile E (Apr 14, 2009)

tigger said:


> Hey guys,how often do i need to flush my system out and change the water? Its been running flawless for at least 6mths.



Whenever it starts getting nasty. lol. If it's still clear, and temps are still the same, you should be fine.


----------



## stevebaker (Apr 15, 2009)

I'm guna be cooling 2 xfx 8800 gtx's but can you explain this in line cooling thing to me please? How does it work and what other options do I have here?


----------



## ace80 (Apr 16, 2009)

Just a couple questions to all you w/c pro's:

I have the XSPC res top on my pump.





Is it mean't to be filled right up to the top eliminating air, or a small gap?
Also the pump does get very warm to the touch, almost hot, will this radiate to the res affecting performance? If so would it be worth getting an seperate res?


----------



## MRCL (Apr 16, 2009)

ace80 said:


> Just a couple questions to all you w/c pro's:
> 
> I have the XSPC res top on my pump.
> http://img.techpowerup.org/090415/SS024-20090416.jpg
> ...



I am by no means a pro, but I have that res. And no, don't fill it to the top. Constantly add water until the loop is filled. I got a gap of about one, one and a half inch.


----------



## technicks (Apr 16, 2009)

If you fill it to the top when the pump is on and you put the cap on, turning off the pump will cause the water to rise and may cause leaks. I have mine filled about 3/4mm under the top because this way the res will not get so dirty on the inside.

And this way it's easy for me to check the flow since the pump is so quiet. Also the pump itself stays very cool.


----------



## ace80 (Apr 16, 2009)

Cheers guys, i'm glad i left a gap when i filled it then.

On a side note, the inlet tube through the middle of the res. Does it really have to be that long? 
Just seems to me the water comes in then straight back into the pump, no circulation time in the res. Or am i talking bs


----------



## Wile E (Apr 17, 2009)

ace80 said:


> Cheers guys, i'm glad i left a gap when i filled it then.
> 
> On a side note, the inlet tube through the middle of the res. Does it really have to be that long?
> Just seems to me the water comes in then straight back into the pump, no circulation time in the res. Or am i talking bs



It's probably there to help keep it more quiet, so the water coming from the line isn't splashing into the water in the res.


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Apr 17, 2009)

I've fitted a fill port to mine on the top of the case,with a tube from the fill port to the top on the res.


----------



## mlee49 (Apr 18, 2009)

Ok so I got everything setup.  I want to test the system before I put it on the board.  How long should I let it run for? 4+hours? 

I put Teflon tape around all the threads and am ready to cut the tubing and clamp them into place. 

Any last minute checks I should go through before putting it in place?







tigger said:


> I've fitted a fill port to mine on the top of the case,with a tube from the fill port to the top on the res.



Necessity is the mother of invention.



*
Oh and why the hell is this thread not Stickied!!!!*


----------



## Binge (Apr 18, 2009)

It will most likely leak in the first 30 min through hour of use.


----------



## mlee49 (Apr 18, 2009)

Thanks I'll test it for a good hour before putting it on the system.


----------



## Wile E (Apr 18, 2009)

lol. I usually leak test for like 10 minutes.


----------



## Cold Storm (Apr 18, 2009)

Wile E said:


> lol. I usually leak test for like 10 minutes.



Shit, the first time I put it together with my dad.. No leak test! lol.. Then found out the dang barb on the Fusion was miss threaded.. lol.. But still all good! 

Second time I did for about the same time as you Wile. Didn't have him around!


----------



## DOM (Apr 18, 2009)

i havent done a leak test since my first loop like 2yrs ago


----------



## mlee49 (Apr 18, 2009)

I think all the seals are tight but I just dropped a pretty penny on my new hardware so I'll do a good leak test.

I'll post up some temps before and after just for grins!


----------



## Cold Storm (Apr 18, 2009)

Hey, You know me! I want to see pictures! lol...  Glad to see that everything is in for ya man! I bet your loving it!


----------



## mlee49 (Apr 21, 2009)

Well got everything hooked up, tested, and installed.  I'm loving the look and sound, although I shocked myself twice on the stupid lights.

I dont have a pictures due do a dead Digital Camera.  I will upload a small youtube clip showing off the system and small mods I did.  It'll be later this week before I shoot the video and upload it.

I have some screenies of temps on stock air cooler and with the loop.  I must say Idle temps are nice   load temps are above what I sensed would be adequate, especially the overclock load temps.  Screenies to come!


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Apr 21, 2009)

I just ordered one of these,a lian li pc-201b,so i will be redoing my loop soon.I am gonna fit a triple rad at the bottom of the case.


----------



## technicks (Apr 21, 2009)

Very nice case Tigger.


----------



## Hayder_Master (Apr 21, 2009)

i want made one , but i can't find same parts in our markets


----------



## mlee49 (Apr 22, 2009)

Props to everyone who helped given at 1:40:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OokYAb9Vh44

  Enjoy!


----------



## DaMulta (Apr 22, 2009)

I'm thinking about turning this into  a water block during normal use.


http://rybamcz.boo.pl/kontenery/CPU Semi-solid rev.4/cpu1.jpg











http://rybamcz.boo.pl/kontenery/CPU Semi-solid rev.4/cpu5.jpg[/QUOTE]


Install a quirk(how do you spell that) on top then run one water line down to the bottom into a small shower head






Then have the fluid come out the top.


I think I'm going to change the phase into a water chiller.....





Now would it perform better even with dry ice/LN2 if I went and had it nickel plated first? That way I would not have the Alum and Copper mix........


----------



## Wile E (Apr 23, 2009)

DaMulta said:


> I'm thinking about turning this into  a water block during normal use.
> 
> 
> http://rybamcz.boo.pl/kontenery/CPU Semi-solid rev.4/cpu1.jpg
> ...


How about just replacing the aluminum tube with a copper one?


----------



## DaMulta (Apr 23, 2009)

True True, but does nickel plating perform better anyways?


----------



## Wile E (Apr 23, 2009)

DaMulta said:


> True True, but does nickel plating perform better anyways?



No, it's adding another layer for the heat to travel thru.


----------



## DaMulta (Apr 23, 2009)

That's what I always thought, then I see them selling all these blocks with that done to them.....


----------



## Cold Storm (Apr 23, 2009)

All right, this is something different.. Not to take your talks out D.. I just looking to buy a new water set up and saw this...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...cts_id=22006:23551a2c132781e522dd2bd1826a5b80

What you guys think?


----------



## Wile E (Apr 23, 2009)

Cold Storm said:


> All right, this is something different.. Not to take your talks out D.. I just looking to buy a new water set up and saw this...
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...cts_id=22006:23551a2c132781e522dd2bd1826a5b80
> 
> What you guys think?



Mixing metals in a loop is bad. If it was copper, I'd say yes, but not aluminum.


----------



## DaMulta (Apr 23, 2009)

I've mixed them before for a long time and didn't really run into problems....soooo IDK.


----------



## Wile E (Apr 23, 2009)

DaMulta said:


> I've mixed them before for a long time and didn't really run into problems....soooo IDK.



Define long time. And it's a proven fact anyway, D. It's just a matter of time before the corrosion causes problems.


----------



## mlee49 (Apr 23, 2009)

Hey guys I'm getting disapointed about my new loop.  I'm thinking something is wrong cause my temps are crazy.  Idle is nice but any overclock load temps just get out of control.  My latest run was with a 3.7 on 1.3Vcore and my highest temp was 80C.  I was amazed as my stock cooler is almost seeming to keep up with my loop.

My lowest Voltage overclock was 1.28V at 3.1GHz and still load temps were in the 70's.  I just did a run at 3.7GHz at 1.3V and load temps peaked at 80.  Whats going on?


----------



## DaMulta (Apr 23, 2009)

Wile E said:


> Define long time. And it's a proven fact anyway, D. It's just a matter of time before the corrosion causes problems.



Maybe 6 months.


----------



## DaMulta (Apr 23, 2009)

mlee49 said:


> Hey guys I'm getting disapointed about my new loop.  I'm thinking something is wrong cause my temps are crazy.  Idle is nice but any overclock load temps just get out of control.  My latest run was with a 3.7 on 1.3Vcore and my highest temp was 80C.  I was amazed as my stock cooler is almost seeming to keep up with my loop.
> 
> My lowest Voltage overclock was 1.28V at 3.1GHz and still load temps were in the 70's.  I just did a run at 3.7GHz at 1.3V and load temps peaked at 80.  Whats going on?



You need new paste IMO. I would look and see if your water block is flat also.

I just looked at your loop on youtube.


----------



## erocker (Apr 23, 2009)

mlee49 said:


> Hey guys I'm getting disapointed about my new loop.  I'm thinking something is wrong cause my temps are crazy.  Idle is nice but any overclock load temps just get out of control.  My latest run was with a 3.7 on 1.3Vcore and my highest temp was 80C.  I was amazed as my stock cooler is almost seeming to keep up with my loop.
> 
> My lowest Voltage overclock was 1.28V at 3.1GHz and still load temps were in the 70's.  I just did a run at 3.7GHz at 1.3V and load temps peaked at 80.  Whats going on?



Air in your system?  Is your radiator getting fresh air?


----------



## mlee49 (Apr 23, 2009)

My rad is mounted where the exaust psu does get pulled in by the top fan.  I'm going to try moving it down so the rad box is attached to the top and see if that makes better sense.

As far as air, I think so.  My res generates lots of bubbles from the swirl affect so how can I address that?  I'm starting with just distilled water, should I move to something else?


----------



## DaMulta (Apr 23, 2009)

distilled water is just fine

Fill it all the way up till the bubbles go away. Then tap the rad till all the bubbles are out of it.

Still I think you should repaste your CPU. You might have a air bubble(it happens).


----------



## Wile E (Apr 24, 2009)

I'm gonna have to say it's a poorly seated block.

Also, are there any kinks in your lines?


----------



## mlee49 (Apr 24, 2009)

I reseated the block and cut about 8" of tubing out.  That helps but I see one problem in my tubing access to the rad, there seems to be a restriction in the tube so I'm gonna cut the case to help add more flex. 

I think I can cut another 6" of tubing down to help as well.  This being my first setup I wanted to be over on all my cuts.

I'll check back later after I make the cuts.


----------



## DOM (Apr 26, 2009)

whats good to clean up your water cooling stuff tubes, blocks, rad etc. 

i always have my tubes turn lil green and some lil green blobs in the blocks not many but i want to get rid of it and for it not to come back


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Apr 27, 2009)

You can use tomato sauce for cleaning the copper parts of the water blocks.I'm not sure about tubes though,maybe its better with black tubing so you cant see it.


----------



## sneekypeet (Apr 27, 2009)

yes ketsup or tomato sauce/juice had a high vinegar content that aides in cleaning the metal. I would imagine the Vinegar is good enough, add some baking soda to a toothbrush for scrubbing action.

Cleaned my zalman 9500 dunking it in a bowl of venegar and baking soda, rinse well and dry quickly to prevent oxidation from the tap water (Dont use heat from a hairdryer to speed it up, it left brown spots down deep where the water droplets were.


----------



## Cold Storm (Apr 27, 2009)

And remember, guys.. Brush for at lease 2 mins, and Floss between the divots!  




Yeah, When I cleaned my Dtec I dunked it in a bowl of Works/water solution. Then used toothbrush to clean it all off..


----------



## 2lowSniper (Apr 27, 2009)

So just curious as to why a brass cleaner ect. isn't used or suggested?


----------



## sneekypeet (Apr 27, 2009)

depending on the area that needs to be cleaned, a more fluid like cleaner is beneficial to cleaning up after. The vinegars acid eats the grime away, and Baking soda will bubble up and break up tougher crud loose, where a brass cleaner may get built up in small areas. That why I use it at least over commercial polishes/cleaners.


----------



## DaMulta (Apr 30, 2009)

2lowSniper said:


> So just curious as to why a brass cleaner ect. isn't used or suggested?



It leaves a thin layer of oil on it.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Apr 30, 2009)

Yeah you can actually feel it on the surface with your fingers.  You can guide your fingers across the surface easily as it it slightly slick.  When you remove that thin layer of oil the surface has more friction and your fingers won't be able to glide across the surface.  I've used 90% rubbing alcohol to and some elbow grease (which means I used a lot of pressure when cleaning the surface) to remove that.


----------



## TechnoHolic_Tim (May 1, 2009)

hi, iv just bought a xspc delta 450 kit and 2 razor 3870s but i want 2 cool my cpu 2. i no the 1 rs120 rad wouldn't cool my q9400 @3600 1.29v so need another rad. i was thinking along the 240 lines as i want better temps than my air cooler (XigmaTek HDT-s1283). what 240 radiator gives the best band 4 the buck? i think that i would need 1 with a low pressure drop as i don't think my xspc 450 pump is very power full.

thanks


----------



## johnnyfiive (May 1, 2009)

I may have my water setup for sale soon fellas. I'm planning to build up an AM3 rig (ALL AMD) and also as quiet as possible. Water was nice but it wasn't what I expected. Back to basics! PMSG me if your interested, for sale thread due to be up by the weekend with pics galore.


----------



## N4cot1c (May 2, 2009)

I think I may have put too much Hydrx in my loop. I put about 2/3'rds of the 2oz bottle in.


----------



## DOM (May 2, 2009)

his


----------



## DOM (May 2, 2009)

hers


----------



## DaMulta (May 3, 2009)

Do u guys think it would be bad to mix a maze5 with a maze4?

I already have a maze4, and am wondering if I should pay the extra to have only maze5 blocks on my 4890 cards.


What video cards are on hers dom?


----------



## SystemViper (May 3, 2009)

DaMulta said:


> Do u guys think it would be bad to mix a maze5 with a maze4?
> 
> I already have a maze4, and am wondering if I should pay the extra to have only maze5 blocks on my 4890 cards.
> 
> ...



Hey i got a maze 4 just hanging aroiund doing nothing, pay shipping and it;s yours.


----------



## DOM (May 3, 2009)

DaMulta said:


> Do u guys think it would be bad to mix a maze5 with a maze4?
> 
> I already have a maze4, and am wondering if I should pay the extra to have only maze5 blocks on my 4890 cards.
> 
> ...



eVGA 9600GSO 384MB / PALIT 9600GSO 384MB

nothing new to play with 

i put the X3350 in today


----------



## TechnoHolic_Tim (May 5, 2009)

iv just bought a 240 radiator so i can add my cpu 2 the gpu loop. im not sure what temps will be lik but thought that if i change from 8mm id tubing 2 1/2 inch tubing my flow might be alot better, is it worth changing and also how malleable is the 1.2 inch tubing? got some tight bends with 2 graphics cards.
thanks
my loop will be,
xspc 450 pump>cpu>xspc rs240>3870 razor>3870 razor>xspc rs120>pump


----------



## johnnyfiive (May 10, 2009)

Did some re-tubing today. Also, finally got a picture of my damn cpu info 

*Before*






*Drained*





*Some gunk... all clean now.*  





*Stepping info, woooo! (Cool picture huh!?!)*





*All done.*





Out tubing to the rad is about 3-4 inches shorter and the in tubing is about an inch shorter. Also re-positioned the block so the in and out fittings were positioned RIGHT.


----------



## warhawk15 (May 16, 2009)

I am looking for a flat top water block for my cpu. I want to tec it with a cpu fan on top. Does anyone know where one can be aquired?


----------



## LifeOnMars (Jul 2, 2009)

I just wanted to say thanks for an excellent guide East, I'm going to be building a new i7 or phenom II rig soon and I'm seriously looking at watercooling. Not only does it make rigs look uber cool, the heat benefits are obvious.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jul 16, 2009)

LifeOnMars said:


> I just wanted to say thanks for an excellent guide East, I'm going to be building a new i7 or phenom II rig soon and I'm seriously looking at watercooling. Not only does it make rigs look uber cool, the heat benefits are obvious.



Great news, let us know how it turns out.


----------



## Wile E (Jul 18, 2009)

Forgot about this place.

The opening post should probably be edited to mention the Heatkiller blocks. They are making quite the stir.

And I think you should also throw the MCW60 in as a suggestion with the Maze5. I have 2 of each, and the MCW60 outperforms the Maze5, but is a little more restrictive.


----------



## Cold Storm (Jul 18, 2009)

I have the Heatkiller LT and I'm amazed at my temps. I would of loved to have the Full version but those are hard as hell to find!


----------



## DanishDevil (Jul 31, 2009)

Going water pretty soon and I wanted some suggestions since I haven't been in the game for a while.  I'm going to be 

This is what I'm thinking:


Heatkiller 3.0 Copper w/ skt775 Backplate
Laing DDC 3.2 (or rebrand) with an aftermarket reservoir top (suggestions please)
HWLabs Black Ice SR1 360 w/ ??? fans around 1500-2000RPM (can't take much more noise than a Petras Yate Loon Medium)
Tygon R3603 7/16ID tubing or another brand UV Orange tubing that I can find in 7/16ID (let me know if there's something better out there now)
Distilled water with PT Nuke and maybe some UV Orange dye if I don't get UV Orange tubing
Which barbs?  I don't want to spend a crapload, and I want classic styled barbs, no compression fittings


----------



## MRCL (Jul 31, 2009)

DanishDevil said:


> Going water pretty soon and I wanted some suggestions since I haven't been in the game for a while.  I'm going to be
> 
> This is what I'm thinking:
> 
> ...



Heatkiller is awesome. Even without the backplate it holds very tight.
A nice top for the pump would be the XSPC Laing top; that is if you like clear acrylic.
I use Scythe Slipstreams on my Black Ice GTX, there sure are better ones regarding CFM, but its quiet. And they cool nicely.


----------



## DanishDevil (Jul 31, 2009)

I'd prefer a reservoir top as long as it doesn't decrease performance.  Saving space is always a good thing.

BTW, this won't be going inside my Mini P180, in case anybody was wondering


----------



## MRCL (Jul 31, 2009)

DanishDevil said:


> I'd prefer a reservoir top as long as it doesn't decrease performance.  Saving space is always a good thing.
> 
> BTW, this won't be going inside my Mini P180, in case anybody was wondering



The XSPC thingy is a reservoir top


----------



## DanishDevil (Jul 31, 2009)

Good for 1/2" barbs, right?

Everything else look good?  Can't find any reviews of the radiator just yet


----------



## erocker (Jul 31, 2009)

DanishDevil said:


> Good for 1/2" barbs, right?
> 
> Everything else look good?  Can't find any reviews of the radiator just yet



Yes, I use that res/top myself and love it.


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Jul 31, 2009)

DanishDevil said:


> [*]Heatkiller 3.0 Copper



ive ordered this thingy 2 days ago... it should be here at least by monday

do you guys think this pump is enough for it? http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p3210_Magicool-pump-station-700-DC12Volt.html

i read the heatkiller needs enough flow, and at least a bit of head pressure...

loop is cpu only...


----------



## Wile E (Aug 1, 2009)

MRCL said:


> The XSPC thingy is a reservoir top
> http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/files/detail/XSPC-DDCRES.gif





DanishDevil said:


> Good for 1/2" barbs, right?
> 
> Everything else look good?  Can't find any reviews of the radiator just yet





erocker said:


> Yes, I use that res/top myself and love it.



And it actually outflows most of the non-res tops as well.


----------



## Fitseries3 (Aug 1, 2009)

here's what i been using to keep EVERYTHING cool...


----------



## mlee49 (Oct 7, 2009)

mlee49 said:


> Hey guys I'm getting disapointed about my new loop.  I'm thinking something is wrong cause my temps are crazy.  Idle is nice but any overclock load temps just get out of control.  My latest run was with a 3.7 on 1.3Vcore and my highest temp was 80C.  I was amazed as my stock cooler is almost seeming to keep up with my loop.
> 
> My lowest Voltage overclock was 1.28V at 3.1GHz and still load temps were in the 70's.  I just did a run at 3.7GHz at 1.3V and load temps peaked at 80.  Whats going on?



Just an update on my loop's upgrade.  Upgraded to the HK 3.0 LT, PA 120.3 w/ *2x* 1900 rpm Sycthe S-Flex's, and some MX-2.  Temps dropped dramatically!  By like 15°!  

Proof:





*MAX TEMP 63°C!!!!*
I can't believe how well the HK+120.3 work.  I think I'm gonna go for 1.5V for 4.4Ghz!  


This is why I went watercooling!  Thanks for all the advise guys, keep this thread alive!


----------



## Lazzer408 (Oct 7, 2009)

DOM said:


> http://img.techpowerup.org/090502/IMG_3718.jpg



Question...

How do you fill that if the fill port isn't the highest point in the system? Wouldn't the water come flowing out if you open the port?

I don't do water cooling so I had to ask.


----------



## mlee49 (Oct 9, 2009)

Hey guys need some more help. Anyone know if Watercool(heatkiller) makes a 275 water block?

I've seen a few blocks and could really use some suggestions.
Swiftech's 275 block:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...=product_info&cPath=240_582&products_id=26478

Ek's:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...=product_info&cPath=240_579&products_id=25896


----------



## Wile E (Oct 9, 2009)

mlee49 said:


> Hey guys need some more help. Anyone know if Watercool(heatkiller) makes a 275 water block?
> 
> I've seen a few blocks and could really use some suggestions.
> Swiftech's 275 block:
> ...



Any particular reason you feel the need to go full coverage?


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Oct 31, 2009)

Anyone have any reason to change over to the heat killer waterblock?  Maybe it's just be but the amount of restriction doesn't really interest me for what you get in performance.


----------



## Nick89 (Oct 31, 2009)

Fitseries3 said:


> here's what i been using to keep EVERYTHING cool...
> 
> http://forums.techpowerup.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27470&stc=1&d=1248986108
> 
> ...



that is awesome!


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Oct 31, 2009)

one question i always asked myself is: can you combo each pump with each pump?
like a 700 litres with a 500 litres, or a 1200 with a 700 litres


----------



## Wile E (Oct 31, 2009)

EastCoasthandle said:


> Anyone have any reason to change over to the heat killer waterblock?  Maybe it's just be but the amount of restriction doesn't really interest me for what you get in performance.



If your pump is up to the task, restriction doesn't matter, only the temperature matters.


----------



## DOM (Oct 31, 2009)

Lazzer408 said:


> Question...
> 
> How do you fill that if the fill port isn't the highest point in the system? Wouldn't the water come flowing out if you open the port?
> 
> I don't do water cooling so I had to ask.



hell idk lol i guess the way its made lil late cuz i really dont bench any more


----------



## SonDa5 (Oct 31, 2009)

Fitseries3 said:


> here's what i been using to keep EVERYTHING cool...
> 
> http://forums.techpowerup.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27470&stc=1&d=1248986108
> 
> ...




That looks like it could cool down some beverages. 

Gnarly set up.


----------



## MRCL (Jan 7, 2010)

Hey guys, I've ran into a small problem, the 360 rad won't fit as anticipated in my case. This is due to the fact that the roof has 2x 140mm fan holes, which also work for 120mm fans, but the spacing makes mounting a triple rad there impossible. I could somehow ghetto mod that triple there, but that would be in conflict with the rest of the case. Now, my question...

How close to a 3x120mm rad does a 2x140mm perform?


----------



## mlee49 (Jan 7, 2010)

I havnt done the research but I do know that the 120.4 is roughly 50% better than a 120.2.  A gross estimate would be 10-15% better going from 120 to 140mm rads.  Unless you are getting a high preformance thick rad, the thicker the rad the more passes thus more heat transfer.


----------



## MRCL (Jan 7, 2010)

mlee49 said:


> I havnt done the research but I do know that the 120.4 is roughly 50% better than a 120.2.  A gross estimate would be 10-15% better going from 120 to 140mm rads.  Unless you are getting a high preformance thick rad, the thicker the rad the more passes thus more heat transfer.



I'd go from a BlackIce GTX260 to a GTX280


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 7, 2010)

MRCL, Make the Cuts for it yourself! Or, make a "honeycomb" effect for your 3rd fan. It can b e done, just gotta play with it!!!

 You'll enjoy the 360 rad. If I was at home I'd show you pictures of me doing my "honeycomb" holes to make the 360 fit. 

I know you got the man power to do it man!!


----------



## MRCL (Jan 7, 2010)

Cold Storm said:


> MRCL, Make the Cuts for it yourself! Or, make a "honeycomb" effect for your 3rd fan. It can b e done, just gotta play with it!!!
> 
> You'll enjoy the 360 rad. If I was at home I'd show you pictures of me doing my "honeycomb" holes to make the 360 fit.
> 
> I know you got the man power to do it man!!



This is the case I'm talking about. Notice the two holes on the top. I'm mounting it externally anyways, cutting a third hole in there could be critical, since that top is not very stable as it is. And this is what I'm opting for right now. Out of the ideas I had, this looks the best...


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 7, 2010)

can't see the picture do to work.. lol..

I'll see it in a few hours and throw out somethign for ya man.


----------



## MRCL (Jan 7, 2010)

Cold Storm said:


> can't see the picture do to work.. lol..
> 
> I'll see it in a few hours and throw out somethign for ya man.



Lol so what they say is true, there's always one in a worse situation than yourself. We have picture content filters aswell (photobucket for example), but TPU hosted pics I can see.


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 7, 2010)

MRCL said:


> Lol so what they say is true, there's always one in a worse situation than yourself. We have picture content filters aswell (photobucket for example), but TPU hosted pics I can see.



lol.. I can't see anything TPU, but I can see Photobucket and such.. lol.. I thought you where throwing it all in the Cosmos S case.. Didn't know you had that sweet baby of a case!


----------



## MRCL (Jan 7, 2010)

Cold Storm said:


> lol.. I can't see anything TPU, but I can see Photobucket and such.. lol.. I thought you where throwing it all in the Cosmos S case.. Didn't know you had that sweet baby of a case!



Actually I was searching for a case for a HTPC when I stumbled upon that baby and just had to have it. And then I decided to skip the HTPC project and go i7 lol. That was in November. And after endless delays I finally have everything together, and now its giving me a harder time than I thought installing the water gear. Eh well, you gotta work for happiness.


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 7, 2010)

That you do man, you really do have to work for happiness. I almost finished with my MM case, but it's all to do with getting it painted again then I can finish.. Now, I'm on to my next project, thinking up ideas and seeing on what I can do crazy for a sweet look.

But, that case is pretty sweet. Sometimes I do envy people living across the ocean due to how somethings are via PC.


----------



## MRCL (Jan 7, 2010)

Cold Storm said:


> That you do man, you really do have to work for happiness. I almost finished with my MM case, but it's all to do with getting it painted again then I can finish.. Now, I'm on to my next project, thinking up ideas and seeing on what I can do crazy for a sweet look.
> 
> But, that case is pretty sweet. Sometimes I do envy people living across the ocean due to how somethings are via PC.



But only sometimes. All the newegg shellshockers you guys post here make me envy like mad.

I just don't really want to mess with this case, just fill it up with beautiful stuff lol.


----------



## brandonwh64 (Jan 19, 2010)

WHO said P4 machines cant love water


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jan 21, 2010)

P4 and water cooling go hand in hand.


----------



## pantherx12 (Jan 21, 2010)

Ohh I can join this club too now


----------



## brandonwh64 (Jan 21, 2010)

i was doin good for about 4 hours til the pump burnt out and my temp skyrocketed to 80deg  so now im trying to buy one of pp mguire


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jan 21, 2010)

wow, I hope the new pump is a bit more reliable.


----------



## brandonwh64 (Jan 21, 2010)

yea i was so crushed when i started seeing my temp jump cause with it running perfect i wassnt getting over 38 deg under full load using prime95 on max heat settings @ 3.8ghz !!!!! i was lovin it!


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jan 21, 2010)

Don't worry, the other pump should last longer


----------



## brandonwh64 (Jan 21, 2010)

i hope so! what i was going to do is make a standard res out of the XSPC res/pump thing. I will post pictures of it in the cooling section soon


----------



## Inioch (Jan 21, 2010)

I just realised, I can join now too


----------



## brandonwh64 (Jan 27, 2010)

My other pump will come in today! once it does i will post some pictures


----------



## pantherx12 (Jan 27, 2010)

brandonwh64 said:


> My other pump will come in today! once it does i will post some pictures



hat pump did ye get


----------



## kinozawa (Jan 30, 2010)

it's very long time i didn't post here after AMD era in the past 3 years. anyway, i'm one of you guys using a Custom WC rig. Will post the pics later


----------



## mlee49 (Jan 30, 2010)

Holy crap, I think you set the record for longest period without a post.


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 4, 2010)

A bit of necromancing for some help.

Looking to watercool the 800D, but I want it to look clean and I also want to hide the pump and res in the optical drive bays.

I was wondering, do thay make something like this for a MCP655? or any other short type res/top? If not maybe suggestions?


----------



## Wile E (Mar 4, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> A bit of necromancing for some help.
> 
> Looking to watercool the 800D, but I want it to look clean and I also want to hide the pump and res in the optical drive bays.
> 
> I was wondering, do thay make something like this for a MCP655? or any other short type res/top? If not maybe suggestions?



http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9...oir_System_w_Pump_Mount_-_PEC_RES-T3-PEC.html

Kick ass top. It even allows you to run 2 loops on one pump, and doesn't lose performance to do it, thanks to those kooky hydrodynamics engineers.

http://www.skinneelabs.com/primochill-typhooniii.html?page=1

Now, you just have to find one. lol.


----------



## mlee49 (Mar 4, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> A bit of necromancing for some help.
> 
> Looking to watercool the 800D, but I want it to look clean and I also want to hide the pump and res in the optical drive bays.
> 
> I was wondering, do thay make something like this for a MCP655? or any other short type res/top? If not maybe suggestions?



Just curious, how many 5.25 drives are you running? I ran one plus a 5.25 bay which didn't leave much room for a 655(but I didn't try) 

If you mount a thin 120.3 rad across the top you may be able to squeeze it in there, but the Thermochill PA120.3 was just too thick and took up the 2 top bays.


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 5, 2010)

Wile E said:


> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9...oir_System_w_Pump_Mount_-_PEC_RES-T3-PEC.html
> 
> Kick ass top. It even allows you to run 2 loops on one pump, and doesn't lose performance to do it, thanks to those kooky hydrodynamics engineers.
> 
> ...



Fully aware of that awesome looking leaky POS, thats why they arent in stock, they are redisigning a flaw currently



mlee49 said:


> Just curious, how many 5.25 drives are you running? I ran one plus a 5.25 bay which didn't leave much room for a 655(but I didn't try) If you mount a thin 120.3 rad across the top you may be able to squeeze it in there, but the Thermochill PA120.3 was just too thick and took up the 2 top bays



To both, I should have made it more clear. I really dont want a bay res, unless its that that Wile E linked, and as of now that isnt a choice. I have one optical drive installed, and want to mount a pump and short res, or top. With something like the POM 80 or 100, I could use it, but it would require a few 90* turns and some tight quarters for assmbly. I'm out for a solution that may go along those lines if possible.


----------



## brandonwh64 (Mar 5, 2010)

I need to email swiftech and see if they will mail me the screws for my NB block


----------



## erocker (Mar 5, 2010)

brandonwh64 said:


> I need to email swiftech and see if they will mail me the screws for my NB block



Lol, you avatar is awesome! You could always just tap the holes and use any size screws you want. I have a bunch of "off" motherboard standoffs that I just tapped out and they work great again.


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 6, 2010)

Ok about to do some shopping and just bit the bullet on a small tube style res and make it work with fittings.

Need some advice on CPU blocks. Whats the one or the top 3 to look at these days?

Thinking of 1/2 fittings everywhere but on my motherboard block, as they come in the 3/8" flavor, then using 3/8" ID tubing stretched over the barbs.

Yay, ney?


----------



## Deleted member 74752 (Mar 6, 2010)

Currently clocked @ 4.5GHz...


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Mar 6, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> Ok about to do some shopping and just bit the bullet on a small tube style res and make it work with fittings.
> 
> Need some advice on CPU blocks. Whats the one or the top 3 to look at these days?
> 
> ...



i believe, the heatkiller series is still on top, together with the swiftech apogee xt.
the heatkillers,especially the lc variant, are cheaper tho


----------



## Wile E (Mar 7, 2010)

Don't forget the new Koolance CPU-360.


----------



## Cold Storm (Mar 7, 2010)

I know I won't be forgetting the Koolance CPU-360 top.


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 8, 2010)

Am I seeing things correctly?

If I get an HK 3.0 I need a backplate as well to mount it to my board for the extra $8?

Also that Koolance is nice, but damn its $90.


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Mar 8, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> Am I seeing things correctly?
> 
> If I get an HK 3.0 I need a backplate as well to mount it to my board for the extra $8?
> 
> Also that Koolance is nice, but damn its $90.



i suppose you have to do that, but isnt the backplate integrated in the CU and LT Versions?
i thought, only the LC variant is so trimmed down


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 8, 2010)

Even looking at the LT I dont see anywhere that it states it comes with the block, I'd hate to assume it does and be left waiting another 3 days to get one

I guess I will email the etailers and see what their response is.


----------



## Cold Storm (Mar 8, 2010)

the block doesn't come with a back plate. It comes with a "hold down set" type mounting. So, that's where the mounting plate comes into effect.. 


PPC has them both in stock, Sidewinder is cheaper on the back plate..


----------



## overclocking101 (Mar 8, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> Even looking at the LT I dont see anywhere that it states it comes with the block, I'd hate to assume it does and be left waiting another 3 days to get one
> 
> I guess I will email the etailers and see what their response is.



it does not come with any of the HK editions. I have the LT and purchased it without the backplate, trust me the backplate is worth the extra 8 bucks and then some. its simply the best WC backplate available for any block imo.


----------



## overclocking101 (Mar 8, 2010)

im currently awaiting a few parts Detroit top and a res but ima join! take some hpotos soon. my loop: HK 3.0 LT, 2X EK 4890 LT blocks, D5, Swity 3X120 and Swifty 4X120 Scythe slip streams. nice setup. though the fans are super loud but whatever.


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 8, 2010)

I wasnt a worth issue it was more of a MUST HAVE issue. You staing it does not come included is a bunch of help.

Only thing that I see now that sux is I have to order from 2-3 places to get what I need

Im thinking..

HK 3.0 LT (may get painted, not sure yet)
Bitspower POM 80 res.
3/8" ID white tube
Misc. Bitspower black elbows and 1/2" compression fittings.

I have a 655 pump and a triple rad and some fans Im sure I can get to work.

Thoughts?  Simple reason for 3/8" tube on 1/2" barbs...stock waterblock for my NF200 chip is 3/8".


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Mar 8, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> I wasnt a worth issue it was more of a MUST HAVE issue. You staing it does not come included is a bunch of help.
> 
> Only thing that I see now that sux is I have to order from 2-3 places to get what I need
> 
> ...



there are 2 revisions of the HK 3.0. one that can fit 1/2 with screw-on barbs, and one, which has a smaller spacing, and can only fit 3/8 screw on barbs. this is REV1, which i own, better ask your etailer, which version he ships, if you one day, plan to go 1/2,instead of 3/8


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 9, 2010)

Ok Im really close. Other than whats on the list in the image, I may need 3 or elbows, but they arent available at Frozen. 






Any help on maybe issues or any other spots to get a better price?


----------



## Fitseries3 (Mar 9, 2010)

sidewinders.


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 9, 2010)

I will look but iirc they had no white tubing

They do have white but its in 1/2"

I picked up a Nickel block, a smaller res, and cheaper fittings





That look normal? I need to add 3 elbows to that list, then just go to frozen for the tubing.

Thanks Fits, I did get a bit more bang for my dollar, now I just gotta see how bad shipping is gonna set me back.


----------



## aCid888* (Mar 12, 2010)

Why not dump the compressions and go with the black Bitspower 1/2ID fittings??

I use/used compressions on a few builds now and they don't look at 'clean' as normal fittings do...in my view that is. 




*Edit:* I also like the compact design of the XSPC restop....works wonders in a smaller case but your 800D isnt small by any means lol


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 12, 2010)

I think against the white tubing, the all black fittings would look better, plus I want to get away from all the clamps Ive tried before. That end of the purchase is solely a personal choice. 

I had the plastic squeeze clamps, and the automotive style, meh. Figured why not, right?


----------



## Wile E (Mar 12, 2010)

I like my fatboys the best. To each their own tho. Fittings don't usually make that big of a difference.


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 12, 2010)

It was more for looks. 

Do they suck? The compressions I mean?


----------



## Wile E (Mar 12, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> It was more for looks.
> 
> Do they suck? The compressions I mean?



They don't flow as well as fatboys, but they aren't going to really hinder anything either. The only way fitting will make a difference is if you are at the ragged edge of your pump's abilities in your loop.

The only thing you have to watch for, is compression fittings end up wider than standard fittings, so they don't always fit on all blocks. Depends on port spacing.


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 12, 2010)

I am aware of their "fatness". But essentially with a 655 pumping away I should be fine?


----------



## Wile E (Mar 12, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> I am aware of their "fatness". But essentially with a 655 pumping away I should be fine?



Yeah, you should be fine. Like I said, it's basically just personal preference.

I've been kicking around the idea of adding some sort of quick release fittings to my loops for easy tear down and block swaps without the need to redo the whole loop.


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 12, 2010)

well the plan is here to make it so I can install it and remove it as all one unit. But we shall see how it goes in a couple of weeks


----------



## Nick89 (Mar 17, 2010)

Hey guys, I'm piecing together a new water cooling system. I need some feedback 

The loop:

--------------------------------------*CPU *
*Reservoir>Pump>Triple Rad>Y Split{----}Y Split>Double Rad>Reservoir.*
--------------------------------------*GPU*

I've been out of the loop for a long time. And I need to know what would be a good pump, and which rads are the best and what would be a good water block form my PII 940 which might get upgraded to a PII X6.

I'll need a good 360mm rad which will get mounted to the top of my case I'm not sure where I will put the 240mm rad. And is the Dtek Fuzion still a good CPU water block?

The only thing in the loop would be my CPU and a 5870 when I get it.


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Mar 17, 2010)

Nick89 said:


> Hey guys, I'm piecing together a new water cooling system. I need some feedback
> 
> The loop:
> 
> ...


from what i know, an MCP 655,a Laing,the OCZ Hydro 500 or even 2 weaker pumps, in Series,should do pretty good work!
regarding waterblocks: buy a Heatkiller 3.0 CU,LT or LC,a Swiftech Apogee XT,or Koolance 360.
they form somewhat the performance crown,today the fusion is good, but it severly blocks flow


----------



## johnnyfiive (Mar 27, 2010)

Got the 5850 block installed tonight.

















Anyone want some Arrowhead distilled water with biocide to drink?


----------



## DOM (Mar 27, 2010)

lol i was going to tell you to drink it 

im thinking of getting a 5850 and wb soon


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Apr 9, 2010)

*Block Cleaning Reminder*

If you been using your water block for at least 1 year by now I suggest that you take some time to disassemble it to check and clean out an containments that may have accumulated.  If you have a see through type of top you should be able to examine it without opening it up.  I found some in mine (didn't take a pic) that stuck to the pins to the base plate of the waterblock.  This prevented it from properly cooling the CPU.  Overall temps dropped by at least 5C.


----------



## Wile E (Apr 10, 2010)

EastCoasthandle said:


> If you been using your water block for at least 1 year by now I suggest that you take some time to disassemble it to check and clean out an containments that may have accumulated.  If you have a see through type of top you should be able to examine it without opening it up.  I found some in mine (didn't take a pic) that stuck to the pins to the base plate of the waterblock.  This prevented it from properly cooling the CPU.  Overall temps dropped by at least 5C.



Always a good tip. 

You get a thanks because that reminded me, I'm about due for a tear down of my loop. Think I'm gonna order some black tubing this time around. Maybe even neoprene.

What's everyone's take on the neoprene tubing?


----------



## aCid888* (Apr 10, 2010)

Wile E said:


> Always a good tip.
> 
> You get a thanks because that reminded me, I'm about due for a tear down of my loop. Think I'm gonna order some black tubing this time around. Maybe even neoprene.
> 
> What's everyone's take on the neoprene tubing?



I need to do the same, thanks from me too.  

Not sure about the neoprene stuff, Wile, I don't see too many people using stuff like that....people like 'normal' things I suppose lol


On another note, a picture:


----------



## aCid888* (Apr 12, 2010)

No one posts in this section yet its pretty obvious a lot of you water cool your stuff..whats the problem??

Lets goooooooOooooooooooooooo....oooooo....oo......post 'em up!


----------



## brandonwh64 (Apr 12, 2010)




----------



## computertechy (May 19, 2010)

GPU Loop - BIX360 Radiator with Yateloon 88CFM Fans, EK 5970 Nickel GPU block, MCP655 Pump, TFC Feser UV Blue tubing, EK 1/2" Barbs

CPU Loop - TC PA120.3 Radiator with Scythe 110CFM Fans, Heatkiller 3.0 CPU Waterblock, MCP655 Vario Pump, TFC Feser UV Blue tubing, EK 1/2" Barbs


----------



## MT Alex (May 20, 2010)

Ahoy there!
Here is my setup, as of now:








I just got this, along with a DD MC-TDX, and a BI 120.3.  I'm going to mount the new rad on the back of the case and leave the 120.2 where it's at.






My question is, this 5870 block must weigh 3-4 pounds.  It feels like it would just snap my card off at the slot.  Do I just rely on the tubing coming from above to support the card?


----------



## sneekypeet (May 20, 2010)

no thats what the srews on the expansion slots are for


----------



## aCid888* (May 20, 2010)

Some stuff....


----------



## MT Alex (May 20, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> no thats what the srews on the expansion slots are for



OK.  Just seems like it would put quite a bit of torsion with the screws being so far back from the block.  I guess I won't worry, it's not like no one has ever used this VGA block before  Also, looks like I'll need to find a good home for your old block.

I'll post pics this weekend.


----------



## brandonwh64 (May 20, 2010)

Ok guys! i wanted to quiet my PC down alittle cause i had two rads and 3 fans (1 a 256CFM delta running on 5V YIKES!). SO i tore my water loop apart and took the single 120mm RAD out and turned my top two fans around so they blow out the top.

Here it is before






Here it is after


----------



## mlee49 (May 20, 2010)

BW, looks like a 45 or 90 degree fitting on the ressy would help release that kink.


----------



## brandonwh64 (May 20, 2010)

mlee49 said:


> BW, looks like a 45 or 90 degree fitting on the ressy would help release that kink.



I hate this tubing that i get here localy cause its thin and collapses easy 

even tho the tubes are the way they are, it still lowered temps by about 5 deg by taking out the single 120 rad


----------



## mlee49 (May 20, 2010)

Yeah Erocker added a second 120rad and he said the same thing.  About 5º temp change.  Depends on if its worth it to you, maybe your max temp is 80, seeing 75 is much more pleasing.


----------



## brandonwh64 (May 20, 2010)

mlee49 said:


> Yeah Erocker added a second 120rad and he said the same thing.  About 5º temp change.  Depends on if its worth it to you, maybe your max temp is 80, seeing 75 is much more pleasing.



But i took the single rad out and im only running a 240 RAD. i did have both in


----------



## NastyHabits (May 21, 2010)

Wile E said:


> Always a good tip.
> 
> You get a thanks because that reminded me, I'm about due for a tear down of my loop. Think I'm gonna order some black tubing this time around. Maybe even neoprene.
> 
> What's everyone's take on the neoprene tubing?



Norprene is good tubing.  Swiftech's tubing is norprene.  It's mostly used for pumping more caustic stuff like gasoline.  It's a bit of overkill for water.  Good stuff though, I've used it.  Doesn't collapse as readily.  It's also less permeable than vinyl and can take higher pressure.  Mostly used for things like fuel injection tubing in your car.


----------



## MT Alex (May 22, 2010)

Well, I got all of my new components installed last night, and have had a few hours this evening to see how things turned out.  Here is an abreviated work log:

Radiator is sleeved and ready with Scythe Ultra Kazes.  I'm only doing push now, both to save money and to see how I liked the Kazes.





Everything is disassembled and ready for reinstall/leak test.  In this picture I still have the straight barbs coming out of the 5870.  I had to take the block back off the damn thing to install the 90s.  It was late and I was tired.






Up and running tonight.  I hauled it back to my office this morning before work and had a heck of a time.  Windows wouldn't start becasue it was complaining that I reinstalled new hardware, and I needed to boot from CD and repair.  Pisser.  Long story short, it took about 20 minutes to realize that I had transposed my SATA cables.

I'm pretty happy with the 38mm Kazes, they move a ton of air and seem to be sufficent in just push.  The only complaint is that dialed way down so they are quiet, I get some kind of strange high speed clicking, almost like the blades hitting something.





I'd like to figure a way around the funny horse shoe from the 5870 to the res.

A couple of shots, first one is after idling for about 2.5 hours, room temp is 68f.  The second is after 35 minutes of Bad Company 2.  I'm pretty happy with the results.  My cpu used to max at 51, and my 5870 gpu #1 at 76, #2 at 78.  This is a much larger drop on the VGA than I expected.










EDIT:  My fans are Ultra Kazes.


----------



## MT Alex (May 22, 2010)

Here is a short video of the fan noise I was refering to.  Any ideas how to get rid of it would be greatly appreciated.  Could it be cavitation or a the fan noise reflecting off the rad?  My computer sits about 2 feet from my head, and although it doesn't sound like much, it's annoying.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ceyEeuxcIY


----------



## mlee49 (May 22, 2010)

MT, I love it!  Its clean, its concise, its fully functional.  I love the rad fan's sleeving!  It's a really nice touch.

Really great job man!


----------



## MT Alex (May 22, 2010)

Thanks.  You don't really realize how small your case is until you pull a tripple rad out of the box.  I think I'll start to fabricate my own once I get a little more time off.


----------



## mlee49 (May 22, 2010)

Yeah building your own case is a watercooling challenge.  It can be done, but I'm too tedious so I over analyze everything.


----------



## Velvet Wafer (May 22, 2010)

sounds like something soft hits the fan blades continually..... does it appear at all speeds,or only at certain?


----------



## sneekypeet (May 22, 2010)

Velvet Wafer said:


> sounds like something soft hits the fan blades continually..... does it appear at all speeds,or only at certain?



agreed, sounds more like a fan blade to me.


----------



## NastyHabits (May 22, 2010)

I thought it was loudest when you were pointing the camera at the middle fan.  Just my two cents.


----------



## MT Alex (May 22, 2010)

Yah, it does seem a little louder on the middle fan, perhaps from the strain of the rad mount.  The noise is predominately on low speeds, although it could be there at higher speeds, but the tornado sound of the air could be drowning it out.  I have heard similar noises on youtube from other Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000s.  

I got the high speed ones because I thought they would be quiet on a controller, and that is the only model the Egg carries.  I guess I'll order some differnet ones, but I'm not looking forward to draining my loop again.  Last week I got packages from a guy from Overclock.net, Jab-tech, Danger Den, and NewEgg.  It was awesome.


----------



## Wile E (May 23, 2010)

MT Alex said:


> Yah, it does seem a little louder on the middle fan, perhaps from the strain of the rad mount.  The noise is predominately on low speeds, although it could be there at higher speeds, but the tornado sound of the air could be drowning it out.  I have heard similar noises on youtube from other Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000s.
> 
> I got the high speed ones because I thought they would be quiet on a controller, and that is the only model the Egg carries.  I guess I'll order some differnet ones, but I'm not looking forward to draining my loop again.  Last week I got packages from a guy from Overclock.net, Jab-tech, Danger Den, and NewEgg.  It was awesome.



Why would you have to drain your loop?


----------



## MT Alex (May 23, 2010)

Wile E said:


> Why would you have to drain your loop?



Good point.  Now that I look at it I could remove the rad from the mount and lay it backwards on some kind of support, then get down to the surgery.  I don't think it will stress the tubing too badly.  If you wouldn't have said anything, I would have doggedly drained it, removed the hoses, did my deed, and then given it a half-ass leak test.  Much less suckiness in your plan.  Smooth, like JJ Cale.


----------



## Yukikaze (May 23, 2010)

Here's my OverKill loop:







I hate summers over here.


----------



## Wile E (May 23, 2010)

MT Alex said:


> Good point.  Now that I look at it I could remove the rad from the mount and lay it backwards on some kind of support, then get down to the surgery.  I don't think it will stress the tubing too badly.  If you wouldn't have said anything, I would have doggedly drained it, removed the hoses, did my deed, and then given it a half-ass leak test.  Much less suckiness in your plan.  Smooth, like JJ Cale.



Pop the cap open on your res to relieve any pressure from compressing/bending the tubes. Just make sure it's not too full. I can be like overflowing a master cylinder after replacing worn pads if the res is too full.


----------



## NastyHabits (May 23, 2010)

Yukikaze said:


> Here's my OverKill loop:
> 
> http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e44/Direwolf007/P1020396.jpg
> 
> I hate summers over here.



Looking good!


----------



## brandonwh64 (May 23, 2010)

Im enjoying my water loop but i hope to get a TRI rad and GOOD fans when i get save up some more $


----------



## mlee49 (May 23, 2010)

brandonwh64 said:


> Im enjoying my water loop but i hope to get a TRI rad and GOOD fans when i get save up some more $



If your interested in a cheap but super effective 120.3 radiator email SidewindersComputers.  I talked to Gary about the new revision of the Thermochill PA 120.3 since they are out of stock everywhere; he said he has about 5 older revisions(25mm spacings) PA 120.3's sitting around.  He lightly quoted me at $75.  That is an amazing price for an amazing radiator.  Just plan ahead and if the spacing is unimportant then I say go for it.




Yukikaze said:


> Here's my OverKill loop:
> 
> http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e44/Direwolf007/P1020396.jpg
> 
> I hate summers over here.




I see the cable ties, what fans do they come with? Energmax?


----------



## MT Alex (May 23, 2010)

Yukikaze said:


> Here's my OverKill loop.



Looks really nice.  Having two rads always means you can add more components later.  It's fantastic the way they both fit in the case.


@ brandonwh64 - I'll have 3 lightly used Scythe Ultra Kaze fans soon.  They aren't very quiet, but I'm pretty sure they are what the USMC uses to power their LCACs.


----------



## brandonwh64 (May 23, 2010)

right now i have two non named 12 bladed 68CFM fans on my 240RAD and they do OK but i want some better ones.


----------



## Yukikaze (May 23, 2010)

mlee49 said:


> I see the cable ties, what fans do they come with? Energmax?



The white ones ? They come with Enermax PSUs, not with fans. I got four sets of those, two black, two white. One from my Modu82+ 625W and three sets from a friend of mine who runs a computer store who had them lying around.

Love those things, very convenient and also good looking.


----------



## aCid888* (May 24, 2010)

Need more tech-pr0n guys, post those WC rigs!


----------



## sneekypeet (May 26, 2010)

Ok so it's now on! The blocks came for the cards, I have a triple rad, and another comming, Swifty 655, and the chipset and HK blocks.

For those who havent seen my PC....





For a quick idea of what I want to do....





flow pattern: Pump > Chipset > CPU > triple rad > GPU1 > GPU2 > res >triple rad > back to the pump.

Im planning on 3/8" tubing (white) and I may need some fittings for smoother appearance.

Will my 655 be enough to push this loop?


----------



## Velvet Wafer (May 26, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> Ok so it's now on! The blocks came for the cards, I have a triple rad, and another comming, Swifty 655, and the chipset and HK blocks.
> 
> For those who havent seen my PC....
> http://img.techpowerup.org/100218/IMG_0242.jpg
> ...



the 655 should be enough, that thing has quite a punch...but having the Chipset before the CPU in the loop, should raise your temps by quite a bit! depends on what you plan to achieve, what fits you more....maximum performance or added simplicity


----------



## sneekypeet (May 26, 2010)

Velvet Wafer said:


> the 655 should be enough, that thing has quite a punch...but having the Chipset before the CPU in the loop, should raise your temps by quite a bit! depends on what you plan to achieve, what fits you more....maximum performance or added simplicity



Well as it is, my GPU heats the chipset cooler. I figured since these chipsets dont get that hot, why not water it before the CPU. I dont think it is going to add much heat, and should keep it cooler than it is now. Plus the UD7 has the block, might as well use it

I think if I went CPU first, I would again be heating the chipset

Performance of course or I wouldnt be moving over


----------



## NastyHabits (May 26, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> Well as it is, my GPU heats the chipset cooler. I figured since these chipsets dont get that hot, why not water it before the CPU. I dont think it is going to add much heat, and should keep it cooler than it is now. Plus the UD7 has the block, might as well use it
> 
> I think if I went CPU first, I would again be heating the chipset
> 
> Performance of course or I wouldnt be moving over



In terms of total BTU's, chipsets don't add much compared to the CPU or GPU.  Still, I've always gone with something like Pump -> CPU -> .... -> Rad -> Pump, making sure the CPU gets the coolest coolant.  Just my two cents.

EDIT:  BTW, you PC looks very clean in it's current configuration.


----------



## sneekypeet (May 26, 2010)

thanks, looks a tad different now. Do you really think the Chipset is going to dump anything noticeable? I mean the P55 really holds the lower end of the board, with the IMC in the chip, the chipset is left with lots less to do


----------



## NastyHabits (May 27, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> thanks, looks a tad different now. Do you really think the Chipset is going to dump anything noticeable? I mean the P55 really holds the lower end of the board, with the IMC in the chip, the chipset is left with lots less to do



I can't really pretend to be the definitive expert on this, but in terms of the total heat, I think it's more than a fair assumption that on an overclocked x58 PC, the CPU will put in far more heat than the chipset.  

I actually did what your are contemplating on my p-35 PC due to space constraints, fewer bends, etc.  It made very little difference in the temps.


----------



## mlee49 (May 27, 2010)

Sneeky, where #3?

Oh and your order is fine, maybe change the order to rad>cpu>nb... but it's all good man.

Dude I cant wait to have these 470's under water.  I'm gonna max out everything!  Vantage will cry!


----------



## sneekypeet (May 27, 2010)

Im already maxed out, I'm just hoping for a touch more if they are cooler.

Wanna see my parts? *looks around and rips open trench coat*


----------



## mlee49 (May 27, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> Im already maxed out, I'm just hoping for a touch more if they are cooler.



Oh they will be, every water cooled 400 series card I've seen has been under 60º @ load.  You'll be sittin pretty for sure.


----------



## MT Alex (May 27, 2010)

God, that Gigabyte chipset block looks sexy!


----------



## Wile E (May 28, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> Ok so it's now on! The blocks came for the cards, I have a triple rad, and another comming, Swifty 655, and the chipset and HK blocks.
> 
> For those who havent seen my PC....
> http://img.techpowerup.org/100218/IMG_0242.jpg
> ...


Primochill has supposedly released a revised version of the Typhoon III. Might be easier on the pump.


----------



## sneekypeet (May 28, 2010)

Wile E said:


> Primochill has supposedly released a revised version of the Typhoon III. Might be easier on the pump.



I knew the first ones leaked and they were reworking it. Two things....couldnt find it at PPC (still OOS), also I dont think I want a bay res, no real reason I guess. I was thinking along the lines of a POM80/100 for a res in the optical bays with the pump, I think I can control the tubing better.

Lots of thinking going on...feel free to interject some reality


----------



## mlee49 (May 28, 2010)

Heres my NB/Mosfet cooler:







I thought about this bay res/pump:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/x2o750du5bay.html

It's a dual 5.25" bay so might take up some more space, but an option.


----------



## Wile E (May 28, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> I knew the first ones leaked and they were reworking it. Two things....couldnt find it at PPC (still OOS), also I dont think I want a bay res, no real reason I guess. I was thinking along the lines of a POM80/100 for a res in the optical bays with the pump, I think I can control the tubing better.
> 
> Lots of thinking going on...feel free to interject some reality



I was thinking less about tubing, and more about pump efficiency. I'm just wondering how much the 655 _might_ struggle with all that in series. Then again, it might not.

If you want to go with simplified tubing, did you see teh new Koolance reservoir tops for the D5/655's? http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=934

Just add the Koolance res tube of your choice from the TNK-BDxxx series. http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/default.php?cPath=57_112


----------



## sneekypeet (May 28, 2010)

Oh snap, I got Cold Storms old EK pump top. Thinking 3/8 tubing too if it matters.

Do like the idea of the other top and screw in res though, that is the first I have see it for the 655.


----------



## Wile E (May 28, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> Oh snap, I got Cold Storms old EK pump top. Thinking 3/8 tubing too if it matters.
> 
> Do like the idea of the other top and screw in res though, that is the first I have see it for the 655.



With that much stuff on a single pump, I'd stick with 1/2" or 7/16" tubing, just to be safe.


----------



## sneekypeet (May 28, 2010)

seriously? 1/2" is not what I wanted to hear, since the GB chipset block has 3/8" barbs, I was going to clamp there, and likely stretch the rest on 1/2" DD barbs.


----------



## Wile E (May 28, 2010)

From what I understand, the GB chipset block isn't very effective. It just bolts on top of a heatsink, doesn't it? Maybe your loop would be better off without it?


----------



## sneekypeet (May 28, 2010)

Card is heating the Cool Pipe air cooler or whatever they call it


----------



## Wile E (May 28, 2010)

But once the card is on water, do you think it will bleed as much heat to the chipset?


----------



## sneekypeet (May 28, 2010)

check that pic on the last page...its like 1-2mm over the PCB of the grahics, granted it wont be as much heat dump, but.....
Damn it Wile_e now Im thinking of going back the the original plan of two loops....grumbles about shelling out more loot.


----------



## Wile E (May 28, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> check that pic on the last page...its like 1-2mm over the PCB of the grahics, granted it wont be as much heat dump, but.....
> Damn it Wile_e now Im thinking of going back the the original plan of two loops....grumbles about shelling out more loot.



Honestly, with that much hardware, 2 loops is the better choice, imo. Run cpu and chipset together on 3/8", no probs, then cards on their own loop.


----------



## NastyHabits (May 28, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> Need some advice on CPU blocks. Whats the one or the top 3 to look at these days?



Swiftech XT, Heatkiller 3.0, Koolance 360.  The only order to these three is in increasing price.  They are all good.


----------



## mlee49 (May 28, 2010)

I think this should sum it up nicely:


----------



## MT Alex (Jun 5, 2010)

Can the large lugs on the bottom of my 5870 block be removed and swapped with the fittings, to allow different tube routing?  I'm thinking probably "yes."  As you can see, the tubing has slipped back from the barbs, just a tad.  I don't think it's going anywhere with the clamps, but bottom route would take most of the bends and stess out of the tube.


----------



## Cold Storm (Jun 5, 2010)

MT Alex said:


> Can the large lugs on the bottom of my 5870 block be removed and swapped with the fittings, to allow different tube routing?  I'm thinking probably "yes."  As you can see, the tubing has slipped back from the barbs, just a tad.  I don't think it's going anywhere with the clamps, but bottom route would take most of the bends and stess out of the tube.
> 
> http://img.techpowerup.org/100605/007.jpg



Yeah, it can be removed and placed. It's just a normal G1/4 fitting. All blocks now a day are built for SLI/Crossfire.


----------



## MT Alex (Jun 8, 2010)

I have an idea rattling around in my pea sized brain that I have read that fans work better in a pull type fashion, rather than push, through a radiator.  Any input?  I have some new Panflos showing up this week to replace the VTOLs I am using now.  For now it will be just the 3 on my 3.120, at almost $20 a pop I won't be doing push/pull if I don't have to.


----------



## Wile E (Jun 8, 2010)

MT Alex said:


> I have an idea rattling around in my pea sized brain that I have read that fans work better in a pull type fashion, rather than push, through a radiator.  Any input?  I have some new Panflos showing up this week to replace the VTOLs I am using now.  For now it will be just the 3 on my 3.120, at almost $20 a pop I won't be doing push/pull if I don't have to.



Push works better for me. But, every setup could be different. Try both ways.


----------



## mlee49 (Jun 8, 2010)

MT Alex said:


> I have an idea rattling around in my pea sized brain that I have read that fans work better in a pull type fashion, rather than push, through a radiator.  Any input?  I have some new Panflos showing up this week to replace the VTOLs I am using now.  For now it will be just the 3 on my 3.120, at almost $20 a pop I won't be doing push/pull if I don't have to.



I've seen all combinations of push, pull, and push/pull combo and the results are very close for the push vs pull.  Push/Pull is the best, even with cheap 800rpm fans on one side and good 1600rpm's on the other.

My new Thermochill rad says to mount fans with a shroud in a pull fashion.  My 120.2 is pull right now, but no shroud.


----------



## MT Alex (Jun 20, 2010)

It's me again, Margaret

Have any of you used alloy fittings on a Swiftech Micro Res?  I got tired of looking at the black acrylic fittings, so when I drained my loop I replaced them with some extra DD wide mouths.  Seems to be working fine, but the turbulence has really changed, now it's hard to tell if any water is moving at all.   I'm thinking this is because of the shorter backsides of the metal fittings.  The plastic ones are quite extended.

Anyhow, just looking for any heads ups before trouble arises.


----------



## Yukikaze (Jun 20, 2010)

MT Alex said:


> It's me again, Margaret
> 
> Have any of you used alloy fittings on a Swiftech Micro Res?  I got tired of looking at the black acrylic fittings, so when I drained my loop I replaced them with some extra DD wide mouths.  Seems to be working fine, but the turbulence has really changed, now it's hard to tell if any water is moving at all.   I'm thinking this is because of the shorter backsides of the metal fittings.  The plastic ones are quite extended.
> 
> Anyhow, just looking for any heads ups before trouble arises.



I am running black Bitspower fittings on my MCRES, both on the inlet and the outlet. No problems whatsoever.


----------



## MT Alex (Jun 20, 2010)

Groovy.  I assumed there would be no troubles, but was a little trepidatious about deviating from the stock fittings and mixing acrylic with metal.


----------



## MT Alex (Jun 20, 2010)

Got my loop all put back together.  I changed out the Scythe Kaze for some Panflows, what a difference.  They move a lot of air, and are really quiet.  Nice to find out that they really are worth the money.  I also changed the fittings on my VGA, which cleaned up the unusual bends in my loop.

Lastly, I was damn disappointed that I couldn't fit my new Bitspower 150 Water Tank anywhere.  I tried turning the PSU on its side, everything I could think of, to no avail.  I even considered piggybacking it to my 3.120.  I'm open to any suggestions.  Oh well, to tell you the truth, I really like the layout I have, I just wanted more capacity.


----------



## Wile E (Jun 22, 2010)

Inside the drive bays.


----------



## MT Alex (Jul 8, 2010)

How does pump speed relate to temperatures?  Does higher flow always equate to lower temperatures?

The reason I ask is I have my 655 at about 3.5 out of 5 for noise purposes.  As summer gets warmer, is there much benefit to increasing my pump as well as the fans?  I know I could monkey around with things and answer my own question, but I'm sure you people already know.


----------



## computertechy (Jul 8, 2010)

for single loops(CPU/GPU only) i would say low pump speed(2/3 + for d5) as otherwise the flow would be too high(personal experience) i dont touch my fan's much they always sit at 5/7volt.

if i had your loop i would run it at full whack (4+ at least)

just experiment with the pump and fan speed's, all the WC systems i have built seem to all be different

good luck.


----------



## grunt_408 (Aug 28, 2010)

Nice thread. Thinking of joining up..... Only looking to cool my CPU at the moment.  Any recomendations for someone on a very tight budget?


----------



## Cold Storm (Aug 28, 2010)

For a Tight budget, I suggest, if you can get it second hand, grab a Corsair h50 or Coolit Eco.. I am more towards ECO due to reviews edging it out over the h50..


----------



## aspire (Aug 28, 2010)

computertechy said:


> for single loops(CPU/GPU only) i would say low pump speed(2/3 + for d5) as otherwise the flow would be too high(personal experience) i dont touch my fan's much they always sit at 5/7volt.
> 
> if i had your loop i would run it at full whack (4+ at least)
> 
> ...



I'm pretty sure it's been proven time and time again that lower flow rates never result in lower temps, mainly because the higher the flow rate the more "thermal cycles" the liquid does in a period of time.


----------



## MT Alex (Aug 28, 2010)

Craigleberry said:


> Nice thread. Thinking of joining up..... Only looking to cool my CPU at the moment.  Any recomendations for someone on a very tight budget?



I'm not sure, being that you're down under.  From what people post on here, it seems like everything costs a bundle in Australia.

From what melee49 has found, a good dual radiator system will cool about anything, and can be put together relatively cheap.
http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=128424


----------



## grunt_408 (Aug 28, 2010)

MT Alex said:


> I'm not sure, being that you're down under.  From what people post on here, it seems like everything costs a bundle in Australia.
> 
> From what melee49 has found, a good dual radiator system will cool about anything, and can be put together relatively cheap.
> http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=128424





Yeah I checked out that thread when melee49 done. What size tubing is the best and what fittings should I use to go with it? Thats the main thing I want to know. Already have a H50. I think its time I done a "Real" Water loop.
So far my list contains
Swiftech Apogee XT
EK-CoolStream RAD XT 240
EK-DCP 4.0
EK-Multioption RES X2 - 150 Advanced 

Just need to know what fittings and tube to get.


----------



## t_ski (Aug 28, 2010)

I just found this.  Subscribed so I can remember to look at all the pretty pics and then post my own rig up.


----------



## grunt_408 (Aug 28, 2010)

t_ski said:


> I just found this.  Subscribed so I can remember to look at all the pretty pics and then post my own rig up.



Why wait? I wanna see pics now


----------



## t_ski (Aug 29, 2010)

OK, here's an old one:







Going out with the wife now.  Maybe tomorrow I'll post some newer shots.


----------



## MT Alex (Aug 29, 2010)

Very nice, t_ski.  Is there a res hidden up top?  Looks like maybe pump>rad>mobo>cpu>gpu>pump?


----------



## overclocking101 (Aug 29, 2010)

ill probably get into trouble for this but just an FYI im selling all my WC gear cheap in my FS thread.


----------



## grunt_408 (Aug 29, 2010)

t_ski said:


> OK, here's an old one:
> 
> http://img.techpowerup.org/100302/P1100222a.jpg
> 
> Going out with the wife now.  Maybe tomorrow I'll post some newer shots.




I like your case


----------



## t_ski (Aug 29, 2010)

MT Alex said:


> Very nice, t_ski.  Is there a res hidden up top?  Looks like maybe pump>rad>mobo>cpu>gpu>pump?



Actually, it's pump > CPU > GPU (will be GPU 1 & 2) > mobo > rad > res > pump.  This is the best way to keep the tubing to a minimum for what I wanted to do.  Below are some more pics.  Please ignore the dust, as I am doing some remodeling.  I need to take the case up to the garage and blow it out good 

Quad rad:






Rad and res setup:











And how I mounted the rad:






I bought some right-angle brackets and cut them down.  I used some small aluminum tubes to help left everything off the back of the case, and some nuts and bolts to hold it all together.  There are four brackets that are used to hold the rad, and the bolts go through the fans on the back of the case to the brackets.  Turns out the thickness of the rad plus a 25mm fan is exactly the same thickness as the gap between the brackets, so everything worked out perfectly.  I have four San Ace 38mm thick fans on one side, and three Yate Loon 25mm UV blue M's on the other side.  I need to make another cable so I can run the San Ace's at 5V, 12V or off, and the Yates at 5V, 12V or off, or any combination of the two together (off my Zalman MFC1).

I have a bunch of compression fittings I need to install to get rid of all the worm clamps.  I also have another EK block for my second 5970, and I will be using parallel flow between the cards so I can keep the rest of the loop the same.


----------



## MT Alex (Aug 29, 2010)

I see.  I actually had guessed the order correctly, and then edited my post because I thought I had grown a brain

Do you find keeping the length of tubing shorter has more advantages than component order?  The reason I ask is:  I know that total absorption of heat into the water will happen no matter what the order, so I could save about 18" of tube travel if I went pump>rad>cpu>gpu>rad>res>pump as opposed to pump>rad>cpu>rad>gpu>res>pump.  That's a long sentence  Despite the notion of equilibrium, I just like having one of my two rads before each major component.  Perhaps shorter tubing could be a valid reason to override my OCD concerning rad placement?


----------



## Wile E (Aug 29, 2010)

Shorter tubing only has benefits when you are nearing the limits of your pumps' head pressure abilities.

With 2 rads and 2 blocks on a single loop, it might be worth your while to shorten your runs. Then again, it could be a total wash.

If your system is performing up to your standards, I'd say do what you prefer.


----------



## t_ski (Aug 30, 2010)

On top of that, I think it looks clean.  I just don't link to see 14 feet of tubing inside a case.


----------



## erocker (Aug 30, 2010)

I use all of this crap, bunch of 90 degree fitting included with a MCP355 and have plenty of head pressure.


----------



## grunt_408 (Aug 30, 2010)

Well I made the order... will be back in a few days with pics. For a first time water cool adventure should I fit it out and then pull it apart again and run it on the table for 24 hours to make sure there are no leaks? Also I notice a lot of people just using distilled water. Any reason why? I ordered some swiftech green stuff to add to my distilled water. Should I just run distilled by itself?


----------



## t_ski (Aug 30, 2010)

I don't pull it out unless necessary.  That goes for my watercooling loops, too.


----------



## grunt_408 (Aug 30, 2010)

t_ski said:


> I don't pull it out unless necessary.  That goes for my watercooling loops, too.



 So fit it fill it and then run it from a seperate power source to check for leaks?


----------



## erocker (Aug 30, 2010)

Coolants, additives, etc. just muck up the loop after a while and have no real cooling benefits.


----------



## mlee49 (Aug 30, 2010)

Yes, bleed the line by allowing water to fill the tubing, blocks, and radiator. Be prepared to add more water to your res/fill line. You may even need to pick up your case and gently rock it back and forth to get all those bubbles out.

By the way, the best(hands down) review for 480 waterblocks has been published by Skinee:

http://skinneelabs.com/gtx480-fc.html

DD's block preforms well, Evga's block does well on the core but Sucks balls on the VRM's(90C load), but the Aquagrafx stands at the top of the charts every time.


----------



## grunt_408 (Aug 30, 2010)

mlee49 said:


> Yes, bleed the line by allowing water to fill the tubing, blocks, and radiator. Be prepared to add more water to your res/fill line. You may even need to pick up your case and gently rock it back and forth to get all those bubbles out.
> 
> By the way, the best(hands down) review for 480 waterblocks has been published by Skinee:
> 
> ...



Thanks. I am just worried about it leaking is all. I ordered brass 1/2" fittings and worm drive hose clamps so hopefully it will be safe.


----------



## mlee49 (Aug 30, 2010)

Clamps will do fine, just check the connections while it's pumping water through the system.  Even if you get water on something just plug a fan in or point a hair dryer at it for a while.  

Once I had to briefly resecure a fitting with a full loop, spilled water on the mobo and gpu but I let it bleed again for an hour with fans running and everything dried up really quick.


----------



## grunt_408 (Aug 30, 2010)

Thanks for you help. I am sure if I get stuck someone here will help me out. I ended up with this stuff plus fittings of course
Tygon 3603 Tubing 1/2 ID  
EK-DCP 4.0 (12V DC Pump)  
Swiftech Apogee XT CPU Waterblock    
EK-CoolStream RAD XT 240   
EK-Multioption RES X2 - 150 Advanced


----------



## MT Alex (Aug 30, 2010)

You're gonna love it, Craigleberry.  I can't see myself every going back to air.  I think that's the way everyone except crazyeyes feels once everything is up and running

Probably seen this before, but this is how I did mine.  It seems like a pain to mount everything, then take it out and leak test it on a table.
http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=128783&p=1992663


On another note, it's nice to see this thread get some love, for a change.


----------



## Wile E (Aug 30, 2010)

I just leak test mine fully assembled. It's pointless to do it any other way. Just moving the loop after an external leak test can make it spring a leak, so you need to test it in your case anyway.

And I only leaks test for like 15min, tops. Usually closer to 10 minutes. lol.


----------



## MT Alex (Aug 30, 2010)

Yes, I'm pretty confident, now.  My leak tests are getting shorter, and I can see myself getting to the point of "Looks good to me."


----------



## Chicken Patty (Aug 30, 2010)

I agree with wile E on the leak testing theory!  That's how I do it too!


----------



## Inioch (Sep 6, 2010)

Well here's how it turned out. I like how easy it is to make it look tidy. Could use some more room between the motherboard tray and the side panel.
Most of the cables have been hidden inside the hdd bays, so if I add another rad on the bottom at some point, I'll have to get more creative.
One thing that I haven't found yet, is an adapter from 3-pin fan to sata power. The only reason I still have the older molex power cable is to power some fans and the pump.

Here's one without the GTX 460:







And here's one that's all finished:






Sadly I couldn't get a push-pull to fit on the top like I planned, but will have to do with this for now.
i5-750 loads @ 50c on stock speed.


----------



## grunt_408 (Sep 14, 2010)

Looks very good Inioch. Where you worried when you turned it on for the first time? I was a bit worried about mine. But now I am getting ready for phase 2. Fitting an extra 2x120 RAD and a 5970 waterblock haha. I really enjoyed doing mine as it is something completely different.


----------



## Inioch (Sep 14, 2010)

I'm always a bit worried when turning it on for the first time. This time especially, since there are no clamps. I trust the tubes to be on tightly enough and check on them every now and then.

I can't wait to see yours.


----------



## grunt_408 (Sep 16, 2010)

Ok newbie wanting some help. I am waiting on tube for the moment and i may have just scored a waterblock for my motherboard too. And reading through peoples post's I am wondering about the best way to run it all. I am sure I am asking in the right place. Also will my pump strugle with all of this?
I have
2 2x120 mm RAD's
 EK-CoolStream RAD XT 
 MCR220
1 CPU block
Apogee XT 
1 5970 waterblock




1 chipset block




and a RES/PUMP combo


----------



## Easy Rhino (Sep 16, 2010)

damn, craig that is an awesome setup!


----------



## grunt_408 (Sep 16, 2010)

Here's a pic of it taken with my webcam so please scuse the quality.


----------



## MT Alex (Sep 16, 2010)

I love those "up skirt" angles.  Makes everything look monumental.

I'm not familiar with that pump, but I'm sure it'll be fine.  People seem to worry a lot about thier pumps, but I think any old thing will have enough head pressure and flow to make it through a few blocks and rads.


----------



## grunt_408 (Sep 16, 2010)

MT Alex said:


> I love those "up skirt" angles.  Makes everything look monumental.
> 
> I'm not familiar with that pump, but I'm sure it'll be fine.  People seem to worry a lot about thier pumps, but I think any old thing will have enough head pressure and flow to make it through a few blocks and rads.



My only other concern is the way I tube it up. I do not want certain things affecting temps. I would like to know the best way to run it.
EDIT and the tubing i speak of is black so I can give the whole lot a good flush and be gone with that cacky green dye.
I can make the second Rad fit in the front of the case under the front bezel.


----------



## Inioch (Sep 16, 2010)

Nice looking set there Craig! I had a similiar setup before wit 2x240 rads, cpu+gpu blocks. My pump is dTek DB-1 and it had plenty enough for a setup like that.

Also I'm becoming even more convinced that in the long run loop order doesn't matter too much. I like to keep a rad before cpu or gpu, but if some other order makes your tubing shorter and easier, then go for that.


----------



## t_ski (Sep 16, 2010)

Craigleberry said:


> I can make the second Rad fit in the front of the case under the front bezel.



Just curious as to how oyu are going to make this happen.  I have a Spedo Advanced as well, and I'm not sure how it would fit, especially with the 140mm fan there.  However, if your modding skills are any good, you probably can replace the top 220mm fan with a couple 120's and mount the rad up there.  I'll see if I can come up with some tube routing ideas.  Pump going in the same spot it is now?


----------



## MT Alex (Sep 16, 2010)

I have a 230mm pulling over my top mounted rad, with 2 120s pushing, works great.  The 230mm almost covers the whole rad.


----------



## ERazer (Sep 16, 2010)

hmm shoulda join this club long time ago lol 

im already thinking putting my third rig under h20


----------



## Delta6326 (Sep 16, 2010)

does http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...rsal_CPU_WaterCooling_Kit_Hot_Item.html#blank come with tubing? and if i was to get should i flush out the system i have never done water cooling


----------



## DOM (Sep 16, 2010)

Delta6326 said:


> does http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...rsal_CPU_WaterCooling_Kit_Hot_Item.html#blank come with tubing? and if i was to get should i flush out the system i have never done water cooling


2 Meters of Clear 7/16" Hose, i boil some distilled water and put it in the rad and shake it


----------



## t_ski (Sep 16, 2010)

Craigleberry said:


> My only other concern is the way I tube it up. I do not want certain things affecting temps. I would like to know the best way to run it.
> EDIT and the tubing i speak of is black so I can give the whole lot a good flush and be gone with that cacky green dye.
> I can make the second Rad fit in the front of the case under the front bezel.



You might be able to use a similar setup to mine, considering the blocks are very similar:


----------



## MT Alex (Sep 16, 2010)

I'm a sucker for blue tubing.  Very nice rigs.

@ERazer - Are those 3 Gentle Typhoons in the first one?


----------



## ERazer (Sep 16, 2010)

MT Alex said:


> I'm a sucker for blue tubing.  Very nice rigs.
> 
> @ERazer - Are those 3 Gentle Typhoons in the first one?



yes sir, best fan i ever bought, got em for 15$ when sidewinders got sale


----------



## Chicken Patty (Sep 16, 2010)

Awesome rigs Erazer


----------



## grunt_408 (Sep 17, 2010)

t_ski said:


> Just curious as to how oyu are going to make this happen.  I have a Spedo Advanced as well, and I'm not sure how it would fit, especially with the 140mm fan there.  However, if your modding skills are any good, you probably can replace the top 220mm fan with a couple 120's and mount the rad up there.  I'll see if I can come up with some tube routing ideas.  Pump going in the same spot it is now?



Thanks t_ski , 
The Pump/Res is staying where is it now. But the plastic that it is sitting on now is going to be replaced by a steel support custom made by yours truly. It will be made with enough clearence for the RAD to go in between the 140mm fan and the Pump/Res. You know what I mean James Dean?



ERazer said:


> hmm shoulda join this club long time ago lol
> 
> im already thinking putting my third rig under h20
> 
> ...



Nice setups ERazer


----------



## mlee49 (Oct 8, 2010)

Bump!


----------



## t_ski (Oct 8, 2010)

Er, you mean "pump"?


----------



## Chicken Patty (Oct 8, 2010)

t_ski said:


> Er, you mean "pump"?





own3d!


----------



## erocker (Oct 16, 2010)

I just made a radbox!


----------



## MT Alex (Oct 16, 2010)

That is a whole lot of awesome coming out of one little tackle box.


----------



## grunt_408 (Oct 16, 2010)

Nice Radbox!! I have been thinking about getting my butt into gear and fitting the 5970 waterblock. Thermal pads check ,MX-3 Check, Spare tube check, Distilled water Check. Hmm I guess that leaves me with no excuse does it? I have all I need.


----------



## Cold Storm (Oct 16, 2010)

erocker said:


> I just made a radbox!
> 
> http://i403.photobucket.com/albums/pp112/erocker414/IMAG0133.jpg
> 
> http://i403.photobucket.com/albums/pp112/erocker414/IMAG0129.jpg



Got nothing better to do at work don't you?


great job non the less


----------



## Chicken Patty (Oct 17, 2010)

That actually came out really good.  Love it!


----------



## angelkiller (Oct 17, 2010)

Noob question: Radbox? I've actually never heard/seen of those. What does it help you do?


----------



## erocker (Oct 17, 2010)

angelkiller said:


> Noob question: Radbox? I've actually never heard/seen of those. What does it help you do?



It's just a place to mount everything externally in one unit. I'll be adding one or two (depending on space) 120mm rads in there along with my MCP355 w/res. top. Basically, I plan on cutting holes at the top for the tubing and power connections, then cut a hole in the bottom of my Lian Li V1000 case. I'll then just set the case on top of the radbox and feed the tubes right up to the blocks.


----------



## angelkiller (Oct 17, 2010)

Gotcha.


----------



## NastyHabits (Oct 17, 2010)

erocker said:


> I just made a radbox!
> 
> http://i403.photobucket.com/albums/pp112/erocker414/IMAG0133.jpg
> 
> http://i403.photobucket.com/albums/pp112/erocker414/IMAG0129.jpg



A very unique solution.  Good job.


----------



## t_ski (Oct 17, 2010)

Are those hollowed-out 120mm fans for a shroud of sorts?  I assume they're not double-stacked working fans...


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Oct 17, 2010)

t_ski said:


> Are those hollowed-out 120mm fans for a shroud of sorts?  I assume they're not double-stacked working fans...



I believe in this case it are just empty fan shrouds, as you say, but combining 2 fans would also make perfect sense to me. Have you made any negative experiences with that, or is that just highly uncommon?


----------



## [Ion] (Oct 17, 2010)

Count me in, I love my H50


----------



## t_ski (Oct 18, 2010)

Velvet Wafer said:


> I believe in this case it are just empty fan shrouds, as you say, but combining 2 fans would also make perfect sense to me. Have you made any negative experiences with that, or is that just highly uncommon?



I could see the fans being slightly different speeds from each other, and that causing them to work against one another.  Usually if you have two fans, you would have one on each side of the rad, unless in this case you are using one that is hollowed out to bring another fan up off the rad to eliminate a dead spot.


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Oct 18, 2010)

t_ski said:


> I could see the fans being slightly different speeds from each other, and that causing them to work against one another.  Usually if you have two fans, you would have one on each side of the rad, unless in this case you are using one that is hollowed out to bring another fan up off the rad to eliminate a dead spot.


would that also be the case,even if they are exactly the same? (take or give about 100-200 rpm the fan is off from spec)
i know the classic push pull config, but i always asked myself if stacking the same fan may increase the air pressure, and if so, to what percentage compared to a single fan


----------



## t_ski (Oct 18, 2010)

I think it would be impossible to match the fans, but I could be just talking out may arse.


----------



## MT Alex (Oct 19, 2010)

This just came in the mail.  Hopefully, it will be quieter than my 655b.  If so I plan on unloading it.


----------



## Wile E (Oct 22, 2010)

The Double Pen 1200?

How much for the 655 if you dump it? I'm debating moving away from my DDC based pumps to the D4/5 series.


----------



## MT Alex (Oct 22, 2010)

BALLS!
I damn near PMd you because of this:






But, I didn't:shadedshu
[FS][US] Swiftech MCP655 Vario

It was brand new in Feb, the original I bought used was goofy loud.

I'm really liking my Jingway.


----------



## Wile E (Oct 22, 2010)

AH shit balls! Oh well. Win some lose some I guess. lol.


----------



## MT Alex (Oct 24, 2010)

I had to give up my dreams of the rad box tower, because I have to give up my office to make room for a new baby.  Instead, I just mounted my extra res to the back of my tripple rad.  Now, for better or worse, am running two reserviors, it was just easier to leave the micro.  










Also, I skipped using the mounting hardware for my new Jingway, and just heaped padding around it.  Makes it totally quiet.  I was wondering if this would make it run too hot.  It does have a 140mm right in front of it, and water moving through it.  It feels cool to the touch.  Any thoughts?


----------



## brandonwh64 (Oct 24, 2010)

MT Alex, i have the SAME EXACT PUMP! i love it but im going AIR soon and will be getting rid of all my water cooling


----------



## MT Alex (Oct 24, 2010)

I like it too.  It's quiet as a mouse and pisses like a race horse.


----------



## Inioch (Jan 16, 2011)

Let's ressurrect this thread with a question. I'm deploying in March and would like to know, should I dismantle my loop or can it stay without use for 3+ months at a time?

I'm going to be on leave 2-3 times in the next 9 months, so the setup would be offline for about 3 months at a time.


----------



## (FIH) The Don (Jan 16, 2011)

i would dismantle it, especially if you have dye in the water, it gets soooo nasty when it just sits there for months 

even with regular water i would do it.


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 16, 2011)

Inioch said:


> Let's ressurrect this thread with a question. I'm deploying in March and would like to know, should I dismantle my loop or can it stay without use for 3+ months at a time?
> 
> I'm going to be on leave 2-3 times in the next 9 months, so the setup would be offline for about 3 months at a time.



Personally, I would go to air for the time that your "away"... This way your safe in everything that happens.. No corrosion of the tubes, water leaking, that sort of thing.. Yeah, with the new stuff that has came out, it probably wouldn't happen.. But, still.. I'd rather be safe and not have  to spend XXX because I came back from duty and saw my loop bone dry, and nothing working anymore.. 

just my 2cents


----------



## (FIH) The Don (Jan 16, 2011)

will get better shots later 










also.... the water is getting purple'ish, should i change it ? it was just distilled water, and i use those black uv tubes, is that what is coloring my water?


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Jan 16, 2011)

(FIH) The Don said:


> will get better shots later
> http://img.techpowerup.org/110116/IMAG0011.jpg
> 
> http://img.techpowerup.org/110116/IMAG0008.jpg
> ...



Oh Don,im looking forward to you reworking the loop for more efficiency! 
If the color of the water is more blue than purple, its probably copper from the rads. 
Can also be, that your tubing colors the water, but i dont believe that, most tubing is medical grade, and will not react with the coolant, besides some residue may begin to accumulate on the tubing,dependant on the quality, coolant, and material of the tubing.
What i know is, that most new stuff will not be totally clean of production residues, and can visually alter the coolant. if you drain the coolant again, and refill the whole loop, it shouldnt return anymore... you could have cicumvented that, by flushing all parts before using them, with hot water... but i admit i also dont do that, its not very problematic, as most of the stuff the parts drop in the water, are smear fluids and oils, that the pumps drop, when beeing new... so it wont hurt anything in the loop


----------



## cdawall (Jan 17, 2011)

so i am reworking my loop and am going to throw some antifreeze in it wilee was telling me dexcool is not as good as the old school green i am only running it at a 15% mix will it be that bad?


----------



## cdawall (Jan 17, 2011)

double post but meh its club forums







hows that look


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 17, 2011)

Nice, tight and clean. Looks good.


----------



## cdawall (Jan 17, 2011)

Cold Storm said:


> Nice, tight and clean. Looks good.



that was 90% of the reason behind the rework  thanks


----------



## MT Alex (Jan 17, 2011)

Yessiree, I like the side mounted tripple.  
You must be the one who had the thread for mounting your PSU on the side?  Seems to be a very nice way to gain some room.  I looked at doing it to mine, but the mobo would literally rest on the top of the PSU, and it's only a mATX, so no expanding to a larger one.  Wish I could find one of those old Rocketfish cases, huge.  Although, cabling looks to be a tough go, not much space behind the mobo tray.


----------



## Wile E (Jan 17, 2011)

I can't find where it was being discussed, but I was reading a thread somewhere that Dexcool doesn't necessarily have performance issues, but more like reliability issues in cooling loops.


----------



## cdawall (Jan 17, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> Yessiree, I like the side mounted tripple.
> You must be the one who had the thread for mounting your PSU on the side?  Seems to be a very nice way to gain some room.  I looked at doing it to mine, but the mobo would literally rest on the top of the PSU, and it's only a mATX, so no expanding to a larger one.  Wish I could find one of those old Rocketfish cases, huge.  Although, cabling looks to be a tough go, not much space behind the mobo tray.



that was me 



Wile E said:


> I can't find where it was being discussed, but I was reading a thread somewhere that Dexcool doesn't necessarily have performance issues, but more like reliability issues in cooling loops.



hmmm what do you mean by reliability like eating parts up or what?

edit after reading about 10 threads on different forums 1 thread listed someone with issues the rest were fine im going for it.


----------



## cdawall (Jan 17, 2011)

all filled up running ~25% dexcool + ~75% water






laing D4 (corsair labeled) pump 1






3.5" bay res (petras ran out of black so they sent me this one with a huge discount)






fillport






laing D5 vario (swifty 655 vario) pump 2






backside of the res

here is the before its bad....


----------



## Wile E (Jan 17, 2011)

cdawall said:


> that was me
> 
> 
> 
> ...



1/10 is still not very good odds in reference to reliability. That's lawsuit territory for manufacturers.


----------



## cdawall (Jan 17, 2011)

Wile E said:


> 1/10 is still not very good odds in reference to reliability. That's lawsuit territory for manufacturers.



only thing i read about was it hardening up so i will keep an eye out and hope for the best...it is still better than me constantly freezing my loop


----------



## Wile E (Jan 17, 2011)

Yeah, but regular coolant doesn't, so why use dexcool?


----------



## cdawall (Jan 17, 2011)

Wile E said:


> Yeah, but regular coolant doesn't, so why use dexcool?



its thinner and was in the garage regular coolant was not  the reports of it hardening up were in cars and only when owners let the coolant level get very low


----------



## Wile E (Jan 17, 2011)

I was also a mechanic, and have leftover hate from that as well. It's not all that good.

And come on, regular coolant is less the $5.


----------



## cdawall (Jan 17, 2011)

Wile E said:


> I was also a mechanic, and have leftover hate from that as well. It's not all that good.
> 
> And come on, regular coolant is less the $5.



ahh but the trip to go get that coolant is not as easy as just the garage...~40miles round trip is not worth it


----------



## cdawall (Jan 17, 2011)

pushing my little sempron that isntalled to around 140w TDP and its temp probe is reading 42C max while runnning wprime 1024


hmmm






no frozen lines


----------



## MT Alex (Jan 18, 2011)

Can a push/pull setup be used with different fan types?  I have 38mm pushers, and would like to add 25mm pulls.  I assume they have to be of like speed.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jan 18, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> Can a push/pull setup be used with different fan types?  I have 38mm pushers, and would like to add 25mm pulls.  I assume they have to be of like speed.


What you don't want happening is one fan canceling the air pressure from another fan rendering it useless.  Even though you can get fans of similar speed it doesn't mean they will perform the same under such conditions.


----------



## MT Alex (Jan 18, 2011)

Gotcha.
Would shrouds offer the same amount of gain as going with push/pull?


----------



## cdawall (Jan 18, 2011)

question location for a MCR220 stackable...were to put it?






i could possibly fit a MCR320 stack in the top but it would cover the ram and make swapping motherboards a PITA


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 18, 2011)

Bottom would work out better.. 

Swapping boards shouldn't take a person more then 20m.. If it does.. there's something wrong.. That would be one thing.. lol


----------



## cdawall (Jan 18, 2011)

Cold Storm said:


> Bottom would work out better..
> 
> Swapping boards shouldn't take a person more then 20m.. If it does.. there's something wrong.. That would be one thing.. lol



i would have to relocate the lower pump


----------



## MT Alex (Jan 18, 2011)

cdawall said:


>



Based on this pic, either spot should be pretty easy, I always think up top looks sharper.  If you mounted your pump in a different spot, wouldn't a trip fit on the bottom, as well?


----------



## cdawall (Jan 18, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> Based on this pic, either spot should be pretty easy, I always think up top looks sharper.  If you mounted your pump in a different spot, wouldn't a trip fit on the bottom, as well?



it cant fit with the PSU i hit the cables and it doesn't clear


----------



## MT Alex (Jan 18, 2011)

Ah so.
What gains did you notice with push/pull as opposed to single side fans?


----------



## cdawall (Jan 18, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> Ah so.
> What gains did you notice with push/pull as opposed to single side fans?



never ran single fans if i get a chance later i will unplug half of them


----------



## Cold Storm (Jan 18, 2011)

cdawall said:


> i would have to relocate the lower pump



just bolt it to the back wall above the rad..


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Jan 18, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> Gotcha.
> Would shrouds offer the same amount of gain as going with push/pull?



Shrouds do localize the direction of air flow but having a fan with good air pressure should perform adequately.  One thing it does allow is the added space between the fan and the radiator.  Which in turn allows the fan to run at it's spec. when that particular fan has issues when butted against grated or finned array.  So if the fan is weak in that regard a shroud would help it.


----------



## cdawall (Jan 18, 2011)

well i got a MCR220-QP-STACK on its way it is officially shipped now  had to hunt down a shop on google that had one to get it...even swiftech is out of them.


----------



## cdawall (Jan 26, 2011)

mostly installed need to order another 120x38 to swap my 120x25mm fans that are currently installed and a 45 degree fitting. not to bad for about an hour of work putting that stupid rad in


loop now has a combined 120x9 planning on another MCR320QP-stack in the bottom i swear i will squeeze that bastard in


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Jan 26, 2011)

looks nice, and the plans sound sweet.... but why the hell do you use that cheap,ugly tubing? 
surely ruins the looks of an otherwise interesting build 
how are the temps with the new rad?


----------



## cdawall (Jan 26, 2011)

Velvet Wafer said:


> looks nice, and the plans sound sweet.... but why the hell do you use that cheap,ugly tubing?
> surely ruins the looks of an otherwise interesting build
> how are the temps with the new rad?



its cheap and i have not had a chance to test it yet


here are my plans...
















very basic 3D cad drawing of it this was kinda thrown together just to get an idea on paper no real dimensions were used


----------



## MT Alex (Jan 26, 2011)

cdawall said:


> mostly installed need to order another 120x38 to swap my 120x25mm fans that are currently installed and a 45 degree fitting. not to bad for about an hour of work putting that stupid rad in



Hell, I have 3 38mm Ultra Kaze 3000s you could have for shipping.  They're too damn loud, even on a controller.  At low volts they make the little "tick tick tick" common to fans of that nature.


----------



## theyrealllies (Feb 1, 2011)

well whaddaya know


----------



## MT Alex (Feb 1, 2011)

theyrealllies said:


> well whaddaya know



A sack of flour makes a helluva big donut.


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Feb 1, 2011)

theyrealllies said:


> well whaddaya know



in china, a sack of rice fell over.


----------



## cdawall (Feb 2, 2011)

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9...ets_LGA_775_1156_1366_754_939_940.html?tl=g30

anyone see this yet?


----------



## Cold Storm (Feb 2, 2011)

cdawall said:


> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9...ets_LGA_775_1156_1366_754_939_940.html?tl=g30
> 
> anyone see this yet?



it's great for the price. Nice for some noob... But, I still like Ek's cooling kit


----------



## cdawall (Feb 2, 2011)

Cold Storm said:


> it's great for the price. Nice for some noob... But, I still like Ek's cooling kit



way more expensive but a wayyyyyy better kit


----------



## Cold Storm (Feb 2, 2011)

cdawall said:


> way more expensive but a wayyyyyy better kit



Yeah, the price can scare some.. but, I just relooked at the Larkooler.. It has Mosfet cooling.. Wonder how well it does.. I like it all but the fans 

& VGA...

But, I don't know about the CPU cooler.. it seems kinda "small" for what they picture..


----------



## cdawall (Feb 2, 2011)

Cold Storm said:


> Yeah, the price can scare some.. but, I just relooked at the Larkooler.. It has Mosfet cooling.. Wonder how well it does.. I like it all but the fans
> 
> & VGA...
> 
> But, I don't know about the CPU cooler.. it seems kinda "small" for what they picture..



its probably similar to the old thermaltakes to be honest...you know i looked at the prices and then went through how much my rig cost lol pumps alone retail close to the larkooler cost


----------



## Cold Storm (Feb 2, 2011)

cdawall said:


> its probably similar to the old thermaltakes to be honest...you know i looked at the prices and then went through how much my rig cost lol pumps alone retail close to the larkooler cost



It could very well be a new "therm" build.

I'm thinking of grabbing a the new Koolance D5 Duel res. I think it would be nice in the Pedestal. Right in the middle of the side panel.


----------



## cdawall (Feb 2, 2011)

Cold Storm said:


> It could very well be a new "therm" build.
> 
> I'm thinking of grabbing a the new Koolance D5 Duel res. I think it would be nice in the Pedestal. Right in the middle of the side panel.



god $130 is a bit of a kick in the teeth though!


hey does anyone know were i can find some old 3870X2 blocks i am trying to build some water for my brothers rig


----------



## Cold Storm (Feb 2, 2011)

cdawall said:


> god $130 is a bit of a kick in the teeth though!



Yeah, it is... Thinking of a bay type res now.. Or, doing two loops, and grabbing one  (two) of this (these) and playing with the front..

My first build had FrozenQ's res in it.. But, that think leaked all over via the bottom.. Thank god I didn't have it hooked in the case..


----------



## MT Alex (Feb 5, 2011)

Well, I noticed a white line of waxy, soap scum feeling jazz on the sides of my 60mm res tube that I just replaced with a 100mm tube, so I want to give my loop a good flushing.  I'm thinking it's from the tubing, or from the collodial silver I added to my distilled water.  

Should I add some white vinigar to the loop, run it for a while, then flush it out with more distilled water?  I've never done it, and was hoping not to have to remove any components from my case.


----------



## t_ski (Feb 5, 2011)

IIRC, it was supposed to be a 50/50 mix, but I'll let the others chime in.


----------



## sneekypeet (Feb 5, 2011)

either way, straight or 50/50. The mix is easier to clean after, less rinsing, full strength will take more rinsing


----------



## MT Alex (Feb 6, 2011)

Got it all flushed out, added 3 more GTs (making 7 total), and swapped the 60mm tube on my EK res with a 100mm one for more capacity.  It's now whisper quiet.  The only thing left is to swap my PSU with a new Seasonic, and probably 3 more GTs on the back of the tripple.


----------



## whitrzac (Feb 7, 2011)

my oooold koolance PC2 case....

I need to pick up a few new fans for the radiator, other than that I love it...


----------



## cdawall (Feb 8, 2011)

new fans 
















4x delta tfc1212de and 6x VA450DC i think both sets are 220CFM


----------



## MT Alex (Feb 8, 2011)

Holy hurricanes, cdawall!!


----------



## cdawall (Feb 8, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> Holy hurricanes, cdawall!!



couple of front views

here are some front views







nidec on the left delta on the right






nidec






delta






all of the fans are 4 pin PWM don't know what the hell can control them but still cool


----------



## MT Alex (Feb 9, 2011)

Well, I'm pretty damn sure my tripple rad has a slow leak.  I dropped the hell out of it while I was flushing my system, right on its top corner.  I've filled my res almost 3 times since I posted my last pic on Saturday.  I don't think there was that much air to bleed out.  No leaks anywhere.  Nothing but undistubed dust in the case and around the fittings.  I took the fans off last night, nothing I could notice, except the faintest pinhole of shinier metal that may have been wet.  Put it all back together, and have had to fill it a bit today.

I'm guessing it is a leak that is slow enough that the fans evaporate the water, so there is no evidence.  Sound reasonable?  Anyone ever seen this before?


----------



## cdawall (Feb 9, 2011)

put some JB weld on it


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Feb 9, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> Well, I'm pretty damn sure my tripple rad has a slow leak.  I dropped the hell out of it while I was flushing my system, right on its top corner.  I've filled my res almost 3 times since I posted my last pic on Saturday.  I don't think there was that much air to bleed out.  No leaks anywhere.  Nothing but undistubed dust in the case and around the fittings.  I took the fans off last night, nothing I could notice, except the faintest pinhole of shinier metal that may have been wet.  Put it all back together, and have had to fill it a bit today.
> 
> I'm guessing it is a leak that is slow enough that the fans evaporate the water, so there is no evidence.  Sound reasonable?  Anyone ever seen this before?



if the leak is that slow, it will take a few weeks for the water to evaporate in that big amounts... youre sure you just dont missed a lot of air? your setup looks like its not the easiest to bleed!


----------



## MT Alex (Feb 9, 2011)

I hope you're right.  It's never been so persnickity, and it's going through quite a bit of water.  I just went over it again with a flashlight, nothing visible.  I'm wondering if the flushing didn't loosen up some junk that plugged a part of one of my rads, so it's taking longer?  Anyhow, I'll keep an eye on it and let you know.


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Feb 9, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> I hope you're right.  It's never been so persnickity, and it's going through quite a bit of water.  I just went over it again with a flashlight, nothing visible.  I'm wondering if the flushing didn't loosen up some junk that plugged a part of one of my rads, so it's taking longer?  Anyhow, I'll keep an eye on it and let you know.



the way your rads are mounted, the backside rad probably traps air bubbles in its top, and needs longer to bleed therefore... the top rad is fine, and shouldnt pose a problem. 
Also, if you want to be sure everything is leak free, make the finger test... touch each fitting with index finger and thumb, and feel if everything is dry.... if there is wetness, you probably found your leak


----------



## IndigoGoose (Feb 9, 2011)

Brillant thanks i've always wanted to watercool now i understand it a lot more 
I will go for it


----------



## MT Alex (Feb 10, 2011)

*Problem solved!!*  :shadedshu







Like I thought, the fans were mitigating the situation, so I got out an extra PSU and just powered the pump.  Took only a few minutes to find the leak.  Lucky that it wasn't fast enough to drip on my video card.  The vinigar flush must have been a little to harsh for the old timer.

Got it spliced together, at the moment.  Looks like I now have an excuse to uprade from the Swifty wafer thin to an XSPC.


----------



## cdawall (Feb 10, 2011)

i like my MCR's  i will take your old rad if you dont want it tho


----------



## MT Alex (Feb 10, 2011)

Ha!  I actually thought you might while I was pulling it.  I'll let you know

My idle temps aren't that much different.  I'll have to check after some BC2.  I don't think it was doing me much good.  Looks like some nasty stuff coming out, as well.  The guy I bought it from used coolant.


----------



## cdawall (Feb 10, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> Ha!  I actually thought you might while I was pulling it.  I'll let you know
> 
> My idle temps aren't that much different.  I'll have to check after some BC2.  I don't think it was doing me much good.  Looks like some nasty stuff coming out, as well.  The guy I bought it from used coolant.



i use dexcool but thats car coolant.  considering how many watts your loop puts out i am surprised the single 320 holds the temps...

look into this one as well or a coolgate

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsrx2xrare2.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...t_Exchanger_Radiator_CG240.html?tl=g30c95s160

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...r_EK-CoolStream_RAD_XT_240.html?tl=g30c95s160

that being said i do have a MCR220 (but its the stackable 4 barb model)


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Feb 10, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> *Problem solved!!*  :shadedshu
> 
> http://img.techpowerup.org/110209/015.jpg
> 
> ...



Hefty Stuff there MT!
i guess i was terribly wrong 
I would have never thought that the performance of the GTs would be big enough to continously dry the leak, and i wouldnt have thought that vinegar could damage a rad that bad... it must have been the vinegar, as there is nothing that would damage the fins otherwise, except maybe physical damage during the cleanup.
How long would you guess did it took, till the first drop formed, without the fans?


----------



## jellyrole (Feb 10, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> Hell, I have 3 38mm Ultra Kaze 3000s you could have for shipping.  They're too damn loud, even on a controller.  At low volts they make the little "tick tick tick" common to fans of that nature.



Did he take you up on that offer?


----------



## MT Alex (Feb 10, 2011)

cdawall said:


> look into this one as well or a coolgate



Thanks for the leg work.  I went with the XSPC from Sidewinder.  The EK looked tempting, especially the price, but was 10mm narrower.  For some reason, I have always gotten my jazz from PPC, mostly for the selection, but I have heard good things about the owner, Gary, around these parts.



Velvet Wafer said:


> How long would you guess did it took, till the first drop formed, without the fans?



Just long enough to take the four screws out of my rad box, tip my back tripple rad on its back and shake it around to see if there was anymore air, and put it back on.  five minutes, tops.  Then I grabbed my flashlight and noticed a drop hanging from a blade of the GT, and a drip on the back of my 5870.  I was damn surprised.  No screw punctures from being too long mounting the fans, just a failure right in the middle.



jellyrole said:


> Did he take you up on that offer?



Yup

I like the black and white.  Nice looking rig.

It's hard to say for sure, since I had a slow leak, but I think my old Panflos at around 1200rpm performed better than my new GTs at 1850rpm, and were pretty damn quiet.


----------



## erocker (Feb 10, 2011)

I bought some Koolance quick disconnects today.. Man they're expensive. 60 bucks for male and female for two hoses. It's going to make taking things apart sooo much easier though.

Male: http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...t_info&cPath=59_346_203_482&products_id=28308

Female: http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...t_info&cPath=59_346_203_482&products_id=28307


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## MT Alex (Feb 10, 2011)

It will probably make the tacklebox rad even more handy.  I've thought about getting some and stashing my rads in my crawl space.  Maybe someday.


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Feb 10, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> Just long enough to take the four screws out of my rad box, tip my back tripple rad on its back and shake it around to see if there was anymore air, and put it back on.  five minutes, tops.  Then I grabbed my flashlight and noticed a drop hanging from a blade of the GT, and a drip on the back of my 5870.  I was damn surprised.  No screw punctures from being too long mounting the fans, just a failure right in the middle.


sounds like its a miniature leak, more like a crack in the copper, than a fullgrown hole.The vinegar probably gave it the rest. Im glad tho, you found your problem, would have sucked to loose hundred of $ for nothing


----------



## 20mmrain (Feb 10, 2011)

new water cooler here and i got a question. I got into it by buying a XSPC RASA X20 750 water cooling kit from frozencpu.com. A nice little kit for the price! But now that I have had it for a little while.... I am looking to get even better temps. I have already upgraded the radiator.....To a Black Ice II ( or something like that too lazy to look it up right now ) 

But my question is.... Which way would I get the most temp drop next? Buy changing out the CPU Block or Changing out the Res and Pump for a higher power pump????  If someone could give some suggestions and even give some examples of possible temp drops with your suggestions.

BTW Will post back tomorrow with pics of my set up. Just cause everyone else is doing it


----------



## erocker (Feb 10, 2011)

20mmrain said:


> new water cooler here and i got a question. I got into it by buying a XSPC RASA X20 750 water cooling kit from frozencpu.com. A nice little kit for the price! But now that I have had it for a little while.... I am looking to get even better temps. I have already upgraded the radiator.....To a Black Ice II ( or something like that too lazy to look it up right now )
> 
> But my question is.... Which way would I get the most temp drop next? Buy changing out the CPU Block or Changing out the Res and Pump for a higher power pump????  If someone could give some suggestions and even give some examples of possible temp drops with your suggestions.
> 
> BTW Will post back tomorrow with pics of my set up. Just cause everyone else is doing it



I don't think much is going to help decrease temps any more. It depends on the gph of the pump I guess. First thing that comes to mind, I suppose would be better fans.


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## 20mmrain (Feb 10, 2011)

erocker said:


> I don't think much is going to help decrease temps any more. It depends on the gph of the pump I guess. First thing that comes to mind, I suppose would be better fans.



Thanx for the quick response Erocker. Yeah I did that....with the fan upgrade already. Well let me bounce a couple of ideas off you remember still new to water cooling more or less. 

1. The other radiator I have sitting around now because I upgraded it......If I added it to the current loop would that lower temps even more? Or would that be over kill or would it cause even more problems. Like worse temps. For example my setup goes.... Pump>CPU Block>Rad>Res ... If I did something like this would it help??? Pump>Rad>Block>Rad>Res

2. So you think a higher flow might help? For example right now I am pushing 750ml if I got like a 900Ml pump would it have a higher flow of water meaning moving the heated liquid away quicker?

3. Right now I am at a low middle end block. Do the higher end blocks produce that much better results that they are priced that high? Or are they just over priced.

4. Last question.... would there be any difference switching tube from 7/16 to 1/2. Or would there be very little like I suspect?

*BTW
Hell Yeah Go Green Bay Packers!!!
*


----------



## MT Alex (Feb 10, 2011)

1.  Loop order really doesn't matter, because after awhile your water will reach and equilibrium temperature.  More radiator surface area is always good, although it may mean you just keep similar temperatures for even longer before the water is saturated with heat.  You are always constricted by ambient temperatures.  It would, however, allow you to add your gpu to the loop, which usually is more drastic of a reduction in temps than the cpu.
2.  There are two schools of thought.  One says squirt the water as fast as you can, the other says moderate speed lets the water stay in the rads for longer to leach out more heat.  Not sure which, I always adjust my pump to the quietest setting.
3.  Not much difference between ultra fancy and mid range blocks, within a handfull of degrees.
4.  As far as I have heard, ID has little effect on overall performance.  A lot of people think the smaller tubing looks nicer.


EDIT:  My temps haven't altered all that much since losing my top rad, even though I just shelled out $70 for a new one.  Makes me wonder how much good the old one was doing, I'm hoping for marked improvment from the XSPC.  These are my temps after about 35 minutes of BC2.  Used to max around 44, although it's pretty cool in the room now at 75 degrees.  Usually around 80ish in the winter, due to the wood stove.  I'm sure they would get higher with longer play time.


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Feb 10, 2011)

20mmrain said:


> new water cooler here and i got a question. I got into it by buying a XSPC RASA X20 750 water cooling kit from frozencpu.com. A nice little kit for the price! But now that I have had it for a little while.... I am looking to get even better temps. I have already upgraded the radiator.....To a Black Ice II ( or something like that too lazy to look it up right now )
> 
> But my question is.... Which way would I get the most temp drop next? Buy changing out the CPU Block or Changing out the Res and Pump for a higher power pump????  If someone could give some suggestions and even give some examples of possible temp drops with your suggestions.
> 
> BTW Will post back tomorrow with pics of my set up. Just cause everyone else is doing it


I guess if you want lower temps, there are things that can be done... question is, what a few C are worth to you. for me, they are very important, for example... so i guess i make 2 options you now have, in my opinion:
*1. *The efficient, cheaper way, probably the most realistic one for you too:
Change the Pump, add both Rads you have to the loop 
(more surface will never hurt, i guess my huge ass rad proves that.)
and change the fans to something beefier, 1700-2000rpm+ push fans 
(Magmas, Silverstone 1202, Scythe GT and anything that is similar to a San Ace/Delta fan, on a controller or undervolted) 
and 1200-1500rpm pull fans should produce a nice result, tempwise, and also shouldnt be too loud. The Temp drop should be also relatively significant, even if not yaw dropping, in comparance from the jump from mediocre air to good water.

*2.* Go full bore,eventually WC the board and the GPU, get yourself a HK 3.0 CU or LT, 
1 or 2 Pumps with about Laing strenght, a MORA-3 9x120, and full Delta/San Ace/EBM-Papst Push/Pull... should give minimum 10c better load temps on an averagely hot Phenom 2,maybe even more like 15,dependant on the proc, and probably much, much more on an i7. 


for me, there was also a third option, i got an old, used, but besides small damages relatively good shaped heatercore, from a 25 year old Renault Espace (Still 100% copper, besides the Steel framing).....4cm thick, 6x3 120mm Fans tall and wide, and about 9-10kilos of copper and about 1 kilo of steel frame. i just had to pay a few € to buy some glasfiber-resin, to fix the crack in the inlet.
I also got me a Laing and a EK Res used in the forums from a very nice UK lad, for a deadly good price...sometimes it happens Because it was a modern, blue impellered Laing DDC 
(with a clear square OClabs top tho)
I popped it open, bridged the solder pad, so it became a Laing DDC+ 
(same electronic and parts,  blue Laing DDC are in fact just artificially crippled, by not making the last solder step in the production)
the Heatkiller 4870x2 LT, i got as open box from Aquatuning.com, for 50€, it had fingermarks and discolorations all over it,and a few nuts were missing but after a good scrub with Ketchup and Vinegar-essence, and a few minutes of search in my nut and screwbox, the block was as good as new 
The 18 EBM Papst 24v industrial grade Fans, a Friend gifted me, even tho i admit, that was just very big luck and never intended.One Day i woke up, due to the weight of 12 Fans my Buddy threw at me,in a sack, smiling and laughing. 



erocker said:


> I don't think much is going to help decrease temps any more. It depends on the gph of the pump I guess. First thing that comes to mind, I suppose would be better fans.


i agree with 2 of your 3 statements:
that better fans and a better pump would help.
but in my opinion, dependant on the budget and enthusiasm of 20MM rain, there are still a bunch of degress left, till (nearly) room temperature is reached.
Also,Ventilation, in my opinion, is 50% of your cooling, from the Experience with my big rad in my badly ventilated room. 
If your room is ventilated well, your rigs will be much cooler, logically


----------



## 20mmrain (Feb 10, 2011)

Velvet Wafer said:


> I guess if you want lower temps, there are things that can be done... question is, what a few C are worth to you. for me, they are very important, for example... so i guess i make 2 options you now have, in my opinion:
> *1. *The efficient, cheaper way, probably the most realistic one for you too:
> Change the Pump, add both Rads you have to the loop
> (more surface will never hurt, i guess my huge ass rad proves that.)
> ...





> 1. Loop order really doesn't matter, because after awhile your water will reach and equilibrium temperature. More radiator surface area is always good, although it may mean you just keep similar temperatures for even longer before the water is saturated with heat. You are always constricted by ambient temperatures. It would, however, allow you to add your gpu to the loop, which usually is more drastic of a reduction in temps than the cpu.
> 2. There are two schools of thought. One says squirt the water as fast as you can, the other says moderate speed lets the water stay in the rads for longer to leach out more heat. Not sure which, I always adjust my pump to the quietest setting.
> 3. Not much difference between ultra fancy and mid range blocks, within a handfull of degrees.
> 4. As far as I have heard, ID has little effect on overall performance. A lot of people think the smaller tubing looks nicer.
> ...



You guys both have given me some really great information and I really appreciate it. I guess I have just a couple more questions.

Velvet Wafer 1. You mentioned 2000+ RPM Push fans.... which I have. But my question lies in the way you said it. "Push fans" have you found it better to just push the air through the Rad apposed to a Push/Pull config?

Next question for anyone 2.... Static pressure.... is there a minimum I should be looking for in a fan?

Last 3. With my Rad on the back I have the air flow as follows.....






The reason I did the rad this way was to deflect the hot air coming from the video cards. The rad does not sit exactly above the video card exhausts but close enough that i don't know how it would effect the temps. 

So my question is.... which way for airflow.... the way I have it or do you think I might benefit from switching it around???


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## Velvet Wafer (Feb 10, 2011)

20mmrain said:


> 1. You mentioned 2000+ RPM Push fans.... which I have. But my question lies in the way you said it. "Push fans" have you found it better to just push the air through the Rad apposed to a Push/Pull config?
> 
> Next question for anyone 2.... Static pressure.... is there a minimum I should be looking for in a fan?
> 
> ...


No, Push/Pull is definetly the preferred option, but not certainly necessary, if your push fans are very strong...would be for price efficieny, not for maximum performance in that case 

I wouldnt trust the most ratings for static pressure on fans, often they are way off, very overestimated. I have a good bunch of Fans here, and those that have high pressure at low RPM nearly always have exotic, often upwards tilted blade designs. 
Enermax Magma,white Silverstone 1202, EBM Papst... probably also Noctua, San Ace, Delta and the like, even tho i didnt owned one of them till now (Designs are often similar, so is the Performance)
Generally you could say, the fewer the blades,the more RPM and the more agressive the upwards angle of them, the higher the pressure the Fan should produce 

In my opinion, good push fans are the Enermax Magmas for sub-2000 RPM, any 2000 RPM+ fan that fits your purse, and if you want to invest in something durable and variable, a few Delta-like fans, preferably under 4000 RPM, 3500 would be fine in my opinion. 

I guess you could turn the Fans around to pull air from the direction of the case, if you would install a small selfmade duct, that would ensure, that all the hot air from the VGAs gets directed to the ground, and not upwards


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## MT Alex (Feb 11, 2011)

As a rule, 38mm fans have much more static pressure than 25mm fans.  Panflo and San Ace are both industry standards.


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Feb 11, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> As a rule, 38mm fans have much more static pressure than 25mm fans.  Panflo and San Ace are both industry standards.



True!
and Panaflo, Delta, EBM-Papst and San Ace are all industry standard


----------



## cdawall (Feb 11, 2011)

Velvet Wafer said:


> True!
> and Panaflo, Delta, EBM-Papst and San Ace are all industry standard



Cough nidec cough


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## 20mmrain (Feb 11, 2011)

Velvet Wafer said:


> No, Push/Pull is definetly the preferred option, but not certainly necessary, if your push fans are very strong...would be for price efficieny, not for maximum performance in that case
> 
> I wouldnt trust the most ratings for static pressure on fans, often they are way off, very overestimated. I have a good bunch of Fans here, and those that have high pressure at low RPM nearly always have exotic, often upwards tilted blade designs.
> Enermax Magma,white Silverstone 1202, EBM Papst... probably also Noctua, San Ace, Delta and the like, even tho i didnt owned one of them till now (Designs are often similar, so is the Performance)
> ...





> As a rule, 38mm fans have much more static pressure than 25mm fans. Panflo and San Ace are both industry standards.



Thanks for your responses guys. I appreciate all of your answers and I believe everything you gave me will assist in my next expensive and inexpensive upgrades to my Loop... and soon in the future loops.

My Next short term upgrade will be a better block and low Noise but high pressure fan. My longer term upgrade will be another loop to cool my cards for all around better temps in my case and just in general. As far as long term upgrade to my Current CPU loop.... I will upgrade the Pump and Rad but since what I have right now is not bad that will be my longer term goal with my current loop.

So with that said.... if it were you guys right now who had to buy some decent fans. And you were looking for quiet fans that have decent static pressure what would you get? I have some Delta fans already but the noise from those bad boys are horrible. One of the reasons I went to water cooling was besides better performance.... less noise. When your equipment is starting to creat so much heat and the only way to control it is to have fans that are as loud as a jet that is a problem. So any suggestions on what you would buy if you had to buy a fan with these qualifications today???

Thanks again!


----------



## MT Alex (Feb 11, 2011)

Velvet Wafer said:


> True!
> and Panaflo, Delta, EBM-Papst and San Ace are all industry standard





cdawall said:


> Cough nidec cough



You both are right.  Those are also some damn nice fans.  I left out Delta and Nidec because they sound like vacuum cleaners



20mmrain said:


> So with that said.... if it were you guys right now who had to buy some decent fans. And you were looking for quiet fans that have decent static pressure what would you get?



Well, I have bought 7 Gentle Typhoons this month  The 1450rpms are almost totally silent, and the 1850s are pretty damn quiet as well.  The GT 1450s are in push/pull, I don't think they would do as well with just two.


That being said, I still love the Panflo L1s I just swapped out with the GTs.  They actually performed the same at about 12-1300rpms and were about the same noise level.  Nice thing about those was that if something got hot, I could crank them to 1700rpm and things would cool off quickly.

If I were buying just two fans, to work in all situations, I think I'd go with the Panflo L1s.  If I were buying 4 for push/pull, I'd go with the GT 1850s and a fan controller.  I do anything I can to avoid noise.

EDIT:  Hell, I forgot I have a Youtube vid of the noise from the Panflos.  I took it for ERazer who, incidentally, uses GTs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-_3_4AIVBk


----------



## 20mmrain (Feb 11, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> You both are right.  Those are also some damn nice fans.  I left out Delta and Nidec because they sound like vacuum cleaners
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Hey thanks man nice and informative!!! I will definitely look those up when I get a chance tomorrow! Nice video too!

Thos fans weren't bad at all even at top speed! Mega thanx again!! 

After thought.....

I was looking through my spare fans and I came across these. They were given to me for free and I know nothing about them. The brand name is.... Sunon. According to on store online they run @ 3100RPM but only have a Noise level of 41DBA would you believe it??? Here they are...

http://www.aerocooler.com/shop.cart?action=ITEM&prod_id=FANSU1238

That seems too quiet for that speed. Or is it because they are 120mm x 38mm would that have a effect on their sound??? I can hook them and find out myself but i just thought yo might know off the top of your head.


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Feb 11, 2011)

cdawall said:


> Cough nidec cough



They are performant, but sadly i dont like the looks of them. could be a cheap alternative for noise resistant Enthusiasts tho 



20mmrain said:


> So with that said.... if it were you guys right now who had to buy some decent fans. And you were looking for quiet fans that have decent static pressure what would you get? I have some Delta fans already but the noise from those bad boys are horrible. One of the reasons I went to water cooling was besides better performance.... less noise. When your equipment is starting to creat so much heat and the only way to control it is to have fans that are as loud as a jet that is a problem. So any suggestions on what you would buy if you had to buy a fan with these qualifications today???
> 
> Thanks again!


I would never buy me anything High Performant again, except EBM-Papst fans.
They simply impressed me with their power and quality, even tho, that quality has a price. compared to them, even a delta is cheap.
There are a lot of similar performing fans, but most of them click at low RPM. These wont. 
Also, the Blade Design is FAR more superior than any kind of blade design i have seen on 38mm fans before. The Blade has up and downwards protruding Winglets, and between the blade and the fan casing, there are probably less than 2mm space, the fan is VERY tightx



20mmrain said:


> I was looking through my spare fans and I came across these. They were given to me for free and I know nothing about them. The brand name is.... Sunon. According to on store online they run @ 3100RPM but only have a Noise level of 41DBA would you believe it???
> 
> That seems too quiet for that speed. Or is it because they are 120mm x 38mm would that have a effect on their sound??? I can hook them and find out myself but i just thought yo might know off the top of your head.


Sounds like you found a good Rad fan, they should be a bit noisy tho, from my knowledge.
Try them at 5, 7 and 12v, and find the speed/noise level you like... if they dont annoy you, they should be fine, and that would save you money


----------



## whitrzac (Feb 11, 2011)

does anyone have a recommendation on a few(3) 80mm fans for a koolance PC2 radiator? the ones I have now are old, loud, and move _____ for air....


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## MT Alex (Feb 11, 2011)

I'm not sure there is such a thing as a "quiet" 80mm fan.  Look for one with double ball bearings or fluid dynamic bearings for lower noise and higher quality.  A lot of people like Scythe S-Flex fans for rads in the 120mm flavor, I notice they have an 80mm version, also:  Scythe S-FLEX SFF80D 80mm Case Fan.  These also look nice:  Zaward ZG2-080B 80mm P.W.M. Case Fan.  Sorry, I don't know much about 80mm fans.


----------



## MT Alex (Feb 13, 2011)

A pleasant surprise, my new rad showed up today.  Gary at Sidewinder got it off early on Thursday, so I am really happy I decided to order from him.  Good shopkeeper.  Anyhow, had to come up with some mounting ideas, since it is so much thicker than the old one.  Turned out pretty good, although I'm going to have to mod the top.  Maybe.  XSPC markets the RX as a two fan rad, and I guess they are right.  Makes a funny windtunnel noise in push/pull.  Still a lot of air in the loop, but surprisingly, as well as disappointedly,  temps are damn near exactly what they were with just the tripple!?!  I'm hopefull that when it's all bled I will see some gains.


----------



## zhadlp (Feb 13, 2011)

Here are some old pics of my humble rig, hopefully you won't get angry if you find it ugly 

I'm actually waiting for my new casing (lian-li pc-a04) and I'll be modding that one to fit a 2x120mm and 1x120mm rad, and I'll also change to white xspc 3/8id 5/8od tubings since I find the 7/16 to large for that matx case


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## Cold Storm (Feb 13, 2011)

MT Alex, yeah, he's a great guy. 

Nice case Zhadlp


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## 20mmrain (Feb 13, 2011)

zhadlp said:


> Here are some old pics of my humble rig, hopefully you won't get angry if you find it ugly
> 
> I'm actually waiting for my new casing (lian-li pc-a04) and I'll be modding that one to fit a 2x120mm and 1x120mm rad, and I'll also change to white xspc 3/8id 5/8od tubings since I find the 7/16 to large for that matx case
> 
> ...



Nice case.... I just went Lian li myself although I went with PC-V1020


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## zhadlp (Feb 13, 2011)

There's only 1 local supplier in the country though, and stocks won't arrive until feb 25, so it's gonna take a while before I get what I paid for ...

I just received the bezel, replacement case feets, and some powdercoated mesh the other day for the mods I have in mind though, so I can't wait to get my hands on the case itself, hehehe


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## cdawall (Feb 13, 2011)

@MT with my top mounted rads i had to flip the case on its back and top to fill it


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## IndigoGoose (Feb 14, 2011)

Bump!!


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## MT Alex (Feb 20, 2011)

Alright, my gpu idles right at ambient room temperature, and peaks about 13-15 above ambient.  Meanwhile, my cpu usually idles around 13-15 degrees above, and peaks somewhere around 34 degrees above.  Does this suggest that I need a better block?  Currently have a Phenom II 940 at stock volts, and a Danger Den MC-TDX.  Doesn't seem like a bad block, heavy copper.

Also, my idle temps are worse with the new XSPC, could this be reflecting more restriction in the loop?  I hope not, I'm pretty fond of this quiet pump.  I ditched my 655 vario for it.


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Feb 20, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> Alright, my gpu idles right at ambient room temperature, and peaks about 13-15 above ambient.  Meanwhile, my cpu usually idles around 13-15 degrees above, and peaks somewhere around 34 degrees above.  Does this suggest that I need a better block?  Currently have a Phenom II 940 at stock volts, and a Danger Den MC-TDX.  Doesn't seem like a bad block, heavy copper.
> 
> Also, my idle temps are worse with the new XSPC, could this be reflecting more restriction in the loop?  I hope not, I'm pretty fond of this quiet pump.  I ditched my 655 vario for it.



the tdx is a nice block... but it was originally designed in socket 939 days (i also have one which cools my delidded 3800+ 939 fairly good)
i guess you need a high performance block, with modern jet impingement design, like a Heatkiller 3.0, and EK Supreme, Koolance 360 or so, and it also can be that your pump limits you... i can tell from experience ordinary laings are a good choice, as you can mod each standard laing with blue impeller, to a laing ultra, which is fairly quiet also, but packs more punch than your pump i think


----------



## t_ski (Feb 20, 2011)

Velvet Wafer said:


> you can mod each standard laing with blue impeller, to a laing ultra, which is fairly quiet also, but packs more punch than your pump i think



Mod the Laing D5?


----------



## MT Alex (Feb 20, 2011)

I'm pretty sure he is referring to the solder mod that will change some 350s to 18v 355s.


----------



## cdawall (Feb 20, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> Alright, my gpu idles right at ambient room temperature, and peaks about 13-15 above ambient.  Meanwhile, my cpu usually idles around 13-15 degrees above, and peaks somewhere around 34 degrees above.  Does this suggest that I need a better block?  Currently have a Phenom II 940 at stock volts, and a Danger Den MC-TDX.  Doesn't seem like a bad block, heavy copper.
> 
> Also, my idle temps are worse with the new XSPC, could this be reflecting more restriction in the loop?  I hope not, I'm pretty fond of this quiet pump.  I ditched my 655 vario for it.



it is more than likely the waterblock i ran an old maze 4 for a while and the dtek fuzion v1 i have is a good upgrade with a jet in it it gets better temps too.


----------



## MT Alex (Feb 20, 2011)

Heck, I have an old v1, with all of the nozzles.  I upgraged, or so I thought, to the DD.  To be clear, it is the newer MC (mulit-core) TDX with all the pins, not the old standard TDX.  Gee whiz.  It's always something.  I thought I was finally going to have my loop just the way I wanted


----------



## cdawall (Feb 20, 2011)

The fuzion lookls like its got a bigged chamber in itt...


----------



## MT Alex (Feb 20, 2011)

Which nozzle is best in the v1, the one with the single stripe in the middle?  I might dig mine out.


----------



## cdawall (Feb 20, 2011)

Nope that's the quad core insert the 2nd smallest insert is what was recommended to me


----------



## SonDa5 (Mar 27, 2011)

My first custom loop that I built myself.


Loopy Silverstone Raven.


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 27, 2011)

I would try to work that kink out of the tubing between the CPU and the board block.


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Mar 27, 2011)

sneekypeet said:


> I would try to work that kink out of the tubing between the CPU and the board block.



angled barbs FTW!


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 27, 2011)

yes a couple 45* fittings would make his life much easier.


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## t_ski (Mar 27, 2011)

Tubing is one place where kinky is bad


----------



## Cold Storm (Mar 27, 2011)

Sonda, looks good besides that one little thing..

after seeing that.. I can't wait for my raven build to be finished.


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Mar 27, 2011)

t_ski said:


> Tubing is one place where kinky is bad



flexibility is wanted in both tho


----------



## SonDa5 (Mar 27, 2011)

sneekypeet said:


> I would try to work that kink out of the tubing between the CPU and the board block.





It's not kinked.  I put a coil of solid 12AWG insulated wire around the tubing for the bend to keep the tubing open.  

I don't think flow is a problem with the number of bends on the tubing as much as I think the flow would be hindered by radiators and blocks.  Overall though the flow seems very good to me.


----------



## SonDa5 (Mar 27, 2011)

Cold Storm said:


> Sonda, looks good besides that one little thing..
> 
> after seeing that.. I can't wait for my raven build to be finished.





Thanks.  I had originally planned to run the block with a DFI X58JR but I had to send the MB in for RMA because it had a problem with C1 error after sticking some new ram in it. Once the X58 comes back I will have a little mor clearance between the MB block and the CPU block and the 12 gauge solid  wire coil will come off. 

For now I'm running my DFI P45 JR mb.  Flow seems to be very good.


----------



## SonDa5 (Mar 27, 2011)

sneekypeet said:


> yes a couple 45* fittings would make his life much easier.





I thought about getting a few of them but decided to stick with straight in barbs and let the tubing do the bending.  

How do you tighten the 45* barbs and set it tightly right where you want it?


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 27, 2011)

the bitspower 45 degree rotary fittings i have have a knurled collar that tightens to the threads, then the 45* bend moves independently.


----------



## SonDa5 (Mar 28, 2011)

sneekypeet said:


> the bitspower 45 degree rotary fittings i have have a knurled collar that tightens to the threads, then the 45* bend moves independently.
> http://www.crazypc.com/images/coolers/watercooling/accessories/bitspowerbarbs/bitspower45full.jpg




Thanks.  I may end up getting some if needed.


----------



## Wile E (Mar 28, 2011)

MEh. I just use zip ties to kill kinks. Way cheaper than bitpower rotary fittings. lol.


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 28, 2011)

yes but you also hold your pump to the chassis with duct tape 

He is right though, they do work well and if one isn't enough, more always helps.


----------



## Wile E (Mar 28, 2011)

sneekypeet said:


> *yes but you also hold your pump to the chassis with duct tape*
> 
> He is right though, they do work well and if one isn't enough, more always helps.



What can I say? I was raised by rednecks. I just do what works. Doesn't need to look good. lol.

At least I'm still not as bad as DaMulta. lol.


----------



## sneekypeet (Mar 28, 2011)

Wile E said:


> What can I say? I was raised by rednecks. I just do what works. Doesn't need to look good. lol.
> 
> At least I'm still not as bad as DaMulta. lol.



I wasn't hating If I wasn't so OCD I could save a lot of loot with some "engineering"


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Mar 28, 2011)

Wile E said:


> What can I say? I was raised by rednecks. I just do what works. Doesn't need to look good. lol.
> 
> At least I'm still not as bad as DaMulta. lol.



Did you just critisized yourself, Wile? 
Seems like Eastern and Christmas fell on the same day this year! 
i admit tho, i also tend to just make it work... not look beautiful... but i wasnt raised by Rednecks, as they are a local phenomenon of the US


----------



## IndigoGoose (Mar 28, 2011)

SonDa5 said:


> My first custom loop that I built myself.



Woow your loop looks amazing almost like you've had years of experience nice one mate


----------



## SonDa5 (Mar 28, 2011)

IndigoGoose said:


> Woow your loop looks amazing almost like you've had years of experience nice one mate





I thought about this loop for a long time and got alot of ideas from those who have been doing it for years.  Thanks for the compliment.  I'm a newbie at custom water cooling.


----------



## Cold Storm (Mar 28, 2011)

Sonda, If you could, can you post your rad's that you have? I know what the 120mm is.. But, I'm in debate on the triple or doing a duel 140...

This is where I'm at on my raven.






There is enough space I can move that 120 to the right, and not have a problem with hiding cables/tubing on the left of it.

Also, Going to pop the back panel off, and swap it around so the psu is at the bottom. Along with cutting the bottom for a psu.


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Mar 28, 2011)

Cold Storm said:


> Sonda, If you could, can you post your rad's that you have? I know what the 120mm is.. But, I'm in debate on the triple or doing a duel 140...
> 
> This is where I'm at on my raven.
> 
> ...



may i ask, whats that thing above the PSU? i kept puzzling since 2 days, but i cant seem to find a plausible answer.. may you enlighten me?


----------



## Cold Storm (Mar 28, 2011)

Velvet Wafer said:


> may i ask, whats that thing above the PSU? i kept puzzling since 2 days, but i cant seem to find a plausible answer.. may you enlighten me?



Danger Den Monsoon Bay Res.







I am going to make a plate for the top, since I got so much aluminum 5052 right now.. That way, when I need to fill, it'll be easy to pull down and fill..


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Mar 28, 2011)

Cold Storm said:


> Danger Den Monsoon Bay Res.
> 
> http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb119/Coldstorm84/_3254316.jpg
> 
> ...



is the pump integrated? from the looks, i would say that is a Laing D5 mounted to that,right?


----------



## Cold Storm (Mar 28, 2011)

Velvet Wafer said:


> is the pump integrated? from the looks, i would say that is a Laing D5 mounted to that,right?



Yeah, it's a D5.. The only thing I hate about it... I had to cut my sleeving job to use it. You have to have one cord go from one side, and another cord come out of the other side of it..


Meaning:

Separating the power cords from each other... I'll rewire the cable, and it'll be all good. But, I just hate having to do that.. I've all ready shortened the cable..


----------



## 20mmrain (Mar 28, 2011)

*Up date On my WC Project.... (Sorry for the crummy Pics.) But I installed almost all new Hardware Plus Now added Cards too Loop.

Things still to add..... 
Front 2x140mm Rad
5.25 Bay Res (Instead of the Micro Res or remount the micro Res Else were)
Full Card Blocks (If they ever release for the 6950 1gb)
45 Degree/90 Degree Fittings.
Add in the second pump I have sitting here
Maybe split the loop in to two

Any suggestions from some water cooling guru's like your selves would be helpful!!!

But as it is Getting really great temps on a single loop....
i7 2600k @ 4.5 Ghz 53c 100% LinX Load
41c On 6950's 100% Furmark Load *


----------



## gumpty (Mar 28, 2011)

20mmrain said:


> Full Card Blocks (If they ever release for the 6950 1gb)



Have you tried asking EK if their 6970 V2 blocks will fit? Their V1 blocks were for reference cards and fitted both 6970 & 6950, so it's possible it might work.


----------



## SonDa5 (Mar 28, 2011)

Cold Storm said:


> Sonda, If you could, can you post your rad's that you have? I know what the 120mm is.. But, I'm in debate on the triple or doing a duel 140...




Both rad's are Hardware labs black ice GT Gen 2 stealths.

Top is 1x120mm and bottom is 3x120mm. Fans are 120mmx38mm Scythe Kaze.  I have a front bay controller for the fans. The fans are all set up to pull.  I left the stock air filter system in place in the bottom and removed the stock 180mm fans.  I have yet to see how my temps are.  Testing for leaks over the last 2 days.  Going to get it up and running today and play with it.


----------



## Cold Storm (Mar 28, 2011)

Thanks Son. I was thinking about just getting stealths, but I'll stick with my quad and I am just in debate on what "other rad" to grab..

I removed it all.. I'll cut area for the rad on the bottom, and add a covering for what area "I don't use".


----------



## 20mmrain (Mar 28, 2011)

gumpty said:


> Have you tried asking EK if their 6970 V2 blocks will fit? Their V1 blocks were for reference cards and fitted both 6970 & 6950, so it's possible it might work.



No I have not asked yet.... But from what I under stand aren't the Vregs on the other side??? But I will give it a shot.


----------



## SonDa5 (Mar 29, 2011)

Up and running.


----------



## SonDa5 (Apr 5, 2011)

A few more angles.


----------



## Cold Storm (Apr 5, 2011)

Looking good Son.


----------



## EastCoasthandle (Apr 9, 2011)

*HW-Lab's ThermalFins Radiators*

ThermalFins


----------



## Velvet Wafer (Apr 9, 2011)

EastCoasthandle said:


> ThermalFins


Nice work again, from my fellow Countrymen! 
Finally something different in the Rad sector, cant wait for performance tests with one of these babies!


----------



## Ross211 (Apr 16, 2011)




----------



## MT Alex (Apr 16, 2011)

I really like that fillport.  The other jazz looks great, too

Is that a gardening hose Y?


----------



## Ross211 (Apr 16, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> I really like that fillport.  The other jazz looks great, too
> 
> Is that a gardening hose Y?



Ha nope it's a Bitspower Silver shining Y-Block

It's the only "bling" I have in my loop


----------



## watercooled (May 14, 2011)




----------



## grunt_408 (May 14, 2011)




----------



## t_ski (May 14, 2011)

Craigleberry said:


>



Fixt


----------



## grunt_408 (May 14, 2011)

Its a little dirty. That for the WC gear that I have is the best config. believe me I have tried everything possible


----------



## Yukikaze (May 15, 2011)

SonDa5 said:


> A few more angles.
> http://minidriven.com/LoopyRaven/LoopRavenBigPictureLoopsmall.jpg



*Jaw drops*

That's just beautiful SonDa5!

Here's my 975's new loop:


----------



## whitrzac (May 15, 2011)

speaking of garden hose... someone NEEDS to do that


----------



## Velvet Wafer (May 15, 2011)

whitrzac said:


> speaking of garden hose... someone NEEDS to do that


you have to go quite a few pages back, but CDAwall has done it before to a 754 rig, if im not wrong


----------



## mlee49 (May 15, 2011)

Everyone with their internal loops, some day I'll build a loop justifiable to the God's of WC. 

A 9x140 Mora 3 pushed with 18 140 mm Noiseblockers and dual Iwaki's. 4 GTX 680 blocks, Full board block, Supreme Nickle plated with custom carbon fiber wrap(thanks CS), EK ram block; Carbon wrapped tubes, multiple separate power supplies(all custom sleeving), ....


Too much to think of now, I'll be back when I have 5 grand.


----------



## MT Alex (May 15, 2011)

Craigleberry said:


> http://img.techpowerup.org/110514/IMGP3935.jpg



Nice!

Did the board blocks you bought and had to clean the hell out of end up to be junk?


----------



## Velvet Wafer (May 15, 2011)

mlee49 said:


> Everyone with their internal loops, some day I'll build a loop justifiable to the God's of WC.
> 
> A 9x140 Mora 3 pushed with 18 140 mm Noiseblockers and dual Iwaki's. 4 GTX 680 blocks, Full board block, Supreme Nickle plated with custom carbon fiber wrap(thanks CS), EK ram block; Carbon wrapped tubes, multiple separate power supplies(all custom sleeving), ....
> 
> ...



you also want to join the 18 fans up club?


----------



## MRCL (May 15, 2011)

Velvet Wafer said:


> you also want to join the 18 fans up club?



Which automatically enlarges your e-peen 18 times? 
By the way good to see you're still alive, Velvet


----------



## Velvet Wafer (May 15, 2011)

MRCL said:


> Which automatically enlarges your e-peen 18 times?
> By the way good to see you're still alive, Velvet



Depends on what Fan you use.... Kismet meant it good with me regarding that, luckily.
A friend gifted me an EBM Papst Fan Array, which is more expensive than my whole loop is.... 
i would have never been able to actually pay that
Good to see you alive too! Im mostly to be found inside the Phenoms OC thread atm,if you wonder where i reside on TPU


----------



## MT Alex (May 16, 2011)

I haven't had a top or proper switch for my case in well over two months, now that I have push/pull on my top rad there just wasn't room.  So today, while I was blowing out more dust than I have ever seen come out of my rig, I got a wild hair and quickly buzzed the grate out of the top and slapped it on.  Not the best, but it sure feels nicer than the bareback version.






I also got a new beasty pump since my last shots, a 35x that I snagged from mlee.  It squirts so damn hard I had to put a series of screw clamps on my tubing to add enough restriction, so that I could keep agitation out of my res - and air out of my lines.  Doesn't look too swell, but works wonders.  Something else:  I asked the guy at Swiftech if the pump being at the bottom of my case was creating my enormous flow rate and he told me pump location makes no difference in a closed loop, that there would be the same pressure if the pump were at the top.  Interesting.  Any thoughts?






Also, here is a quick clip of flow before the clamps:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSCmTy6lJvk


----------



## grunt_408 (May 16, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> Nice!
> 
> Did the board blocks you bought and had to clean the hell out of end up to be junk?



I have not put them back together yet. Next loop change I was thinking of adding them in.


----------



## Wile E (May 16, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> I haven't had a top or proper switch for my case in well over two months, now that I have push/pull on my top rad there just wasn't room.  So today, while I was blowing out more dust than I have ever seen come out of my rig, I got a wild hair and quickly buzzed the grate out of the top and slapped it on.  Not the best, but it sure feels nicer than the bareback version.
> 
> http://img.techpowerup.org/110516/008.jpg
> 
> ...



Pressure is the same no matter where. Instead of clamping the tubes, you can put it on a fan controller.


----------



## MT Alex (May 16, 2011)

It's a PWM pump, and it doesn't operate below 9V, so there is a very fine line between perfect noise and speed and not running at all.  I had it conk off at least 3 times, so I gave up on the fan controller.  The crux of the problem is that my board doesn't seem to work well PWM wise with the pump, and won't run below 3300 rpm no matter how low I set my temp curve.  It should go down to 1500.  Anyhow, now I have no more shutoff worries, and it's still pretty quiet at 3300.


----------



## Wile E (May 16, 2011)

Ahhh, fair enough. Didn't know you already attempted a controller.

You can also use something like this to help reduce turbulence in the res, as long as the outlet feeding the pump is also threaded inside the res. Helped tremendously on my Alphacool res top.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bimablanadbp.html


----------



## Velvet Wafer (May 16, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> I haven't had a top or proper switch for my case in well over two months, now that I have push/pull on my top rad there just wasn't room.  So today, while I was blowing out more dust than I have ever seen come out of my rig, I got a wild hair and quickly buzzed the grate out of the top and slapped it on.  Not the best, but it sure feels nicer than the bareback version.
> 
> http://img.techpowerup.org/110516/008.jpg
> 
> ...



its due to the top of the pump... all of these Restops, have severe problems with the formation of cyclones in the water.... EK sells anti cyclone inserts for their Res, i bet one of these would help you very much with your problem


----------



## Wile E (May 16, 2011)

lol. I linked him the Bitspower anti-cyclone fitting. It does work quite well.


----------



## Velvet Wafer (May 16, 2011)

Wile E said:


> lol. I linked him the Bitspower anti-cyclone fitting. It does work quite well.



didnt read your post,before posting myself... but it seems great minds think alike!


----------



## MT Alex (Sep 16, 2011)

It's a travesty that this thread has slipped by unnoticed for this long.  Heck, I had to check the box under Old Thread Warning just to post this scathing diatribe.  For shame, Gents, for shame!!


----------



## t_ski (Sep 18, 2011)

That's true.  Anybody got anything new?  I should be adding some GPU blocks soon (I know - I said I wouldn't do it...).


----------



## sneekypeet (Sep 18, 2011)

not exactly "new" but I thought we needed a picture to go with all this talk of revival


----------



## MT Alex (Sep 18, 2011)

That is sweet.  Add a few quick disconnects and you would be in removable motherboard heaven.


----------



## t_ski (Sep 18, 2011)

I agree.  It's very clean, sneeky.  Do you have pics of it in the system?  And with the double-stacked fans, were you using those for extra static pressure or was one hollowed out for a fan shroud to reduce noise, etc?


----------



## sneekypeet (Sep 18, 2011)

hollowed for spacing. If I only used one fan the rad would hit the rear I/O and expansion card raised sections.


----------



## Chicken Patty (Sep 19, 2011)

^That's beautiful, you and your amazing builds/cases.


----------



## t_ski (Sep 30, 2011)

How about this?






Gotta keep this thread alive!


----------



## MT Alex (Sep 30, 2011)

Damn, I love the double tubing between the video cards.  Does that improve flow, or just make it look super special bad ass?


----------



## sneekypeet (Sep 30, 2011)

I read it doesn't hurt flow Even if it helps a little, who cares, I'm banking on looking bad ass is the main reason its in his rig


----------



## HammerON (Sep 30, 2011)

Are you using a spare Bitspower tube to brace your second video card? Nice idea
Great build by the way!!!


----------



## t_ski (Oct 1, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> Damn, I love the double tubing between the video cards.  Does that improve flow, or just make it look super special bad ass?





sneekypeet said:


> I read it doesn't hurt flow Even if it helps a little, who cares, I'm banking on looking bad ass is the main reason its in his rig



For me it has two purposes:

1. Since these are a little smaller ID than the 1/2" ID tubing I ude, two pipes means that these won't restrict the flow any.

2. If you look at the exit fitting on the bottom block, you'll see by using the dual tubes I was able to exit on the right, which means it's closer to where the tubing runs out toward the rad in the bottom.  If I used a single tube between the blocks, it would have had to ecit on the left.



HammerON said:


> Are you using a spare Bitspower tube to brace your second video card? Nice idea
> Great build by the way!!!



You caught that one, eh?  I noticed the cards were sagging under the weight a little, and I stuck that in there as a temporary fix.  Works great until I can find something better.


----------



## Grnfinger (Oct 2, 2011)

HK 3.0 Nickle Plated
MCW30 
Koolance VID 5970
PA120.3
MCR 120
AlphaCool Single Bay res
D5


----------



## t_ski (Oct 2, 2011)

Where's the PA120.3?  In the top or in the front?


----------



## the54thvoid (Oct 2, 2011)

*Decent Advice Needed*

Hi all, I'm hoping to step into the watercooling arena to keep the life of my i7 920 going.  I've recently had to downclock it to 3.4 from 3.6 as it caused a blue screen due to temps.  I also just want to play with water as I like to fiddle and w/c is the best damn fiddling i figure i can do.

Problem is I run a Silverstone Fortress FT02 and for the life of me I can't figure out the best way to go.  No matter which way i look there seems to be major hurdles to leap.  

I could simply remove my bottom case fans (60cm depth right away) but it's made worse by my 580 lightning at 12" long (makes bottom clearance 60cm bang on - with fans out.)

Is it worth my while taking out one 18cm fan and putting a 120.1 rad in there bottom mounted? or would it be any better than my megahalem (on push and pull)?

Other alternative is to mount the rad outside the case (I'd figured out a front mounted method but the tubing would be quite long and would it be noisier with a triple rad on the outside?)

I would buy an obsidian in a flash but I love my fortress case.

Just looking for sound advice - I know you guys know your stuff.

Cheers.


----------



## MT Alex (Oct 2, 2011)

I found this thread at another site that is devoted to FT02 an RV02s and watercooling.  The fellow in post #79 fit a MCR320 XP, which is the thinner rad, below his 580 Matrix Plat.  Some nice looking cases, here. 

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums...rtress-FT02-amp-Raven-RV02-Liquid-Cooled-Club


----------



## Cold Storm (Oct 2, 2011)

Also, another thing to look at, if you want. Tower Pedestal that can be placed under the case.. you can place a 120 quad raid in there, pump, even house the psu if wanted.. 

Me, I just took out the fans and placed a rad.. Black Ice Stealth would be the best bet for a rad and fans under even the longest video card. Thin and workable rad. I've had two and Loved them..


----------



## Grnfinger (Oct 2, 2011)

t_ski said:


> Where's the PA120.3?  In the top or in the front?



in the roof.. it was a buggger but I got it without to much dremel work.

here is a better shot


----------



## the54thvoid (Oct 3, 2011)

Well, used three different e-tailers and have the following coming my way (most from specialtech).

Hardware Labs Black Ice® GT Stealth 360mm Triple Radiator : GTS360
Bitspower 5.25" Drive Bay Reservoir : BP-WT525P-BK
XSPC Rasa CPU Waterblock Intel 1366 (Chrome)
D5 Vario Pump & EK D5 X-Top V2 Value Combo
+ 7/16 tuning for 1/2 inch fittings.
+ some plugs and a handful (8) of basic 1/4 inch barbs.

Should arrive tomorrow so by tomorrow evening, my pc should be completely broken


----------



## sneekypeet (Oct 3, 2011)

the54thvoid said:


> Well, used three different e-tailers and have the following coming my way (most from specialtech).
> 
> Hardware Labs Black Ice® GT Stealth 360mm Triple Radiator : GTS360
> Bitspower 5.25" Drive Bay Reservoir : BP-WT525P-BK
> ...



That's a pretty dense radiator, high FPI count. What Fans are you planning to use?


----------



## the54thvoid (Oct 3, 2011)

It needed to be a narrow radiator to fit in the bottom of the case with 25mm fans.  I've got a few options, from some noctua's and either try my akasa apache or viper.  The akasa fans are PWM and drop as low as 700-900 rpm and the viper will hit 1800 rpm i think. I have two Apaches, and two Noctua's (NF p12).  And one viper.

I think higher fins per inch = higher air flow fans are better but therefore noisier but the sales chuff did say quiet operation...



> The Black Ice® GT Stealth 360 is the first true next generation triple fan PC radiator designed for uncompromising performance and stealth silent operation



I'll sue if it's noisy 

I just read a good article (old mind) http://www.coolingtechnique.com/mar...an-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html
I'll probably test the fans and the radiator before installing to get an idea for noise.

What's your advice?


----------



## PopcornMachine (Oct 3, 2011)

the54thvoid said:


> Should arrive tomorrow so by tomorrow evening, my pc should be completely broken


----------



## Cold Storm (Oct 3, 2011)

Your going to need something nice in CFM's. It's a good rad when you "need the space" but you gotta tie it up with the right fans. Or at lease a fan controller to "silent" the crazy fans. 

I'd go with BitFenix Spectre if you can find them in your "shipping".. 


Link me the "vipers" I forget which ones those are... 

The Noc's do push a good amount of air... they would be my best bet for what you have now.. If you don't want to spend the money for the Bitfenix... There really isn't tooo much of a difference between the Noc's and the Bits...


----------



## the54thvoid (Oct 3, 2011)

Viper:

Fan speed 	600 -1900 RPM
Max airflow 	83.63 CFM
Max static air pressure 	2.98 mm H2O 
http://www.akasa.co.uk/update.php?t...type=Fans&type_sub=PWM Control&model=AK-FN059

Apache:
Fan speed 	600 -1300 RPM
Max airflow 	57.53 CFM
Max static air pressure 	2.64 mm H2O 
http://www.akasa.co.uk/update.php?t...type=Fans&type_sub=PWM Control&model=AK-FN058

And read this for the Noctua:


> We principally recommend the NF-P12 for the following applications:
> CPU coolers with tight fin-spacing
> Water-cooling radiators with tight fin-spacing


----------



## Cold Storm (Oct 3, 2011)

I'm going with the Nocs since they were developed for the rads that you just got. The more static pressure you want, is when the fins are like the Sr1's or anything with "less" fins in the raid. 

I suggest just grabbing another noc and calling it a day..


----------



## the54thvoid (Oct 4, 2011)

Fans under rad, pushing air through or above rad, pulling air through (best cooling for cpu)

or:

As above but push /pull air out of bottom of case?  (The 580 lightning vents it's heat into the case but it is quite an airy case.


----------



## sneekypeet (Oct 4, 2011)

Viper Fans due to more static pressure


----------



## the54thvoid (Oct 4, 2011)

Well, I went ahead and installed.  I leak tested for a couple of hours using the psu bridge so no mobo  power.  I'm running it live now but it's under surveillance.  Not a drop of water though.  Thing took a while to bleed!

I've got two apache's and a viper on pull and it's already cooler and quieter than my megalem on push pull with apache/viper.  

I'll tart her up soon enough but for now, this is ugly cooling but it is water cooling 

That D5 vario pump is awesome - keep having to check it's working!!!


----------



## Cold Storm (Oct 4, 2011)

the54thvoid said:


> Well, I went ahead and installed.  I leak tested for a couple of hours using the psu bridge so no mobo  power.  I'm running it live now but it's under surveillance.  Not a drop of water though.  Thing took a while to bleed!
> 
> I've got two apache's and a viper on pull and it's already cooler and quieter than my megalem on push pull with apache/viper.
> 
> ...



Looks good! I would of drilled into the case and made less tubing.. but, that's me.. 

Can we get a "close up" of the rad and gpu?


----------



## Sinzia (Oct 4, 2011)

I need some 45 degree and some 90 degree rotary fittings before I can post some pics, but its an epic build.

Stay posted.


----------



## the54thvoid (Oct 4, 2011)

Here's that gap...





It's about 6-7mm.  To be fair, to get a 30cm gfx card in a case aligned like the fortress FT02 and get a triple rad and fans isn't too bad.  

Slightly prettier but I'm not a modder....





I'll get a UV tube as i'm pretty sure the tubing is UV.  Didn't want to bother with dye - I've heard it can be a factor with sludge in the long run?

And 6 hours gone - no signs of water - at all (except where it's meant to be!).  I'll keep checking but im thinking it's safe.....


----------



## sneekypeet (Oct 4, 2011)

From what I have run, it's better imo to buy the color of tube you want and run distilled water with no dyes I think you made the right call.


----------



## Cold Storm (Oct 5, 2011)

sneekypeet said:


> From what I have run, it's better imo to buy the color of tube you want and run distilled water with no dyes I think you made the right call.



Yep. I'm with ya.. I tried the "dyes" and It didn't do nothing but "gunk" up the system.. Cleaning it more often then I want, and changing the tubing afterwards..


----------



## Sinzia (Oct 5, 2011)

sneekypeet said:


> From what I have run, it's better imo to buy the color of tube you want and run distilled water with no dyes I think you made the right call.



agreed, I've seen many a horror video posted and stuff where the dye was all gunked up on the microfins and such.


----------



## the54thvoid (Oct 5, 2011)

I've just run Prime 95 for over an hour with i7 920 at 3.6Ghz and 1.34v (HT off).  Given I have a C0 stepping model, not the fabled D0 are these temps okay?

Core 1 only bumped about over 60 degrees and the remaining cores stayed under 60.  At no time would i consider the system loud - Even kept the D5 pump at setting 2.  It's about a 20 degree delta from idle.

Would i get a better cooling effect putting the fans under the rad and blowing through them, as opposed to the set up i've got (pulling air)?


----------



## Cold Storm (Oct 5, 2011)

the54thvoid said:


> I've just run Prime 95 for over an hour with i7 920 at 3.6Ghz and 1.34v (HT off).  Given I have a C0 stepping model, not the fabled D0 are these temps okay?
> 
> Core 1 only bumped about over 60 degrees and the remaining cores stayed under 60.  At no time would i consider the system loud - Even kept the D5 pump at setting 2.  It's about a 20 degree delta from idle.
> 
> ...



That's not bad temps at all. Pretty good if the pump is at setting 2 instead of full force 5..


----------



## MT Alex (Oct 5, 2011)

It seemed like the sweet spot in my old vario was in between 3 and 4, but either I am more sensitive to noise or I got a loud pump.  Mine wasn't what I would call silent.


----------



## the54thvoid (Oct 6, 2011)

I'd have to say the pump is definitely in audible at position 2.  Even more so as it sits inside the gutted hard drive rack. 

On a side note, I've flipped the rad and fans so the fans are under the radiator sucking on cold air and blowing it through.  I thought it might make a bit more noise as the fin density is quite high but the noise is the same and temps are down 1-2 degrees (with less fan rpm).

Moved up to 3.7Ghz and had same if not fractionally lower temps with this radiator set up.  I'll stick at that I think.

Thanks guys.


----------



## the54thvoid (Oct 20, 2011)

Well after much playing about finally seem to have a fairly stable setting.  Ran at 3.8GHz with HT on, 1.34 Vcore.  Ran Prime 95 for 1 1/2 hours, max temp 66 degrees.  Ran Very high Stress (4096MB) Intel Burn Test 5 runs without error - max temp 68 degrees.

Happy with my first foray into water cooling.  

Popped it back down to 3.6 with Turbo on (jumps up to 3.78GHz) for extra stability and silence unless gaming.


----------



## MT Alex (Oct 20, 2011)

Great pictures.  I have a hell of a time getting good interior shots, even with a tripod.


----------



## the54thvoid (Oct 20, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> Great pictures.  I have a hell of a time getting good interior shots, even with a tripod.



Used a Canon Powershot SX230 and a mini gorilla pod stand.  It has good manual programming settings for ISO, Aperture settings etc.


----------



## Cold Storm (Oct 20, 2011)

Glad to see that Stealth rad did a good job for ya.


----------



## Animalpak (Oct 20, 2011)

Im coming back to watercooling silently but better than my old systems ... HA HA look what i did today...  











And this is my clearence...


----------



## the54thvoid (Oct 21, 2011)

Ha!

I'm looking at that thinking, that looks familiar - You've got a Raven case?  Same internals as the Fortress I have.  Did you know the plastic brackets the noctua fans are attached to is actually intended to mount the 180mm fans to the radiator directly?

I couldn't because of my gfx card length - had to get that Stealth GT rad but it worked out well.


----------



## Animalpak (Oct 21, 2011)

the54thvoid said:


> Ha!
> 
> I'm looking at that thinking, that looks familiar - You've got a Raven case?  Same internals as the Fortress I have.  Did you know the plastic brackets the noctua fans are attached to is actually intended to mount the 180mm fans to the radiator directly?
> 
> I couldn't because of my gfx card length - had to get that Stealth GT rad but it worked out well.




Yes this is my Raven RV02, you can mount 120mm fans to the original brackets. 

Can mount only 3x120mm rads or 2x140mm rads directly on the 180mm stock fans but do not have the right efficiency and the air does not pass well through the radiator ...  it is better to have the right size fan mounted on radiator

You have to install a SLIM radiator if you want to keep the two 180mm silverstone fan.  

The best thing is to remove the original fan and do like I did in the picture, is also better to have fans that blow air to the radiator rather than aspiring.


----------



## the54thvoid (Oct 21, 2011)

Ah, right.  I thought with a standard gfx card you could get a proper thickness rad but it seems we're both in the same boat.  Works really well though with the slim rad and the fans under (blowing).

I'm tempted to stick with my case when i next upgrade for Ivy Bridge.  Though I might get me a Temjin TJ07 while they're still around and keep it safe.....


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## JrRacinFan (Oct 25, 2011)

This is my quick sketch-up of a potential layout for my upcoming loop in a Rocketfish case. Anyone see any kinks or problems i may come about? It will be either 7/16" or 1/2" tubing. Uncertain if I will be switching out the res from a cylindrical to a swifty micro or a dual bay.

Airflow: fans will push from the lower bottom towards the back and it will have intake in the lower portion in the front.


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## Chicken Patty (Oct 25, 2011)

That looks interesting.


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## the54thvoid (Oct 27, 2011)

JrRacinFan said:


> This is my quick sketch-up of a potential layout for my upcoming loop in a Rocketfish case. Anyone see any kinks or problems i may come about? It will be either 7/16" or 1/2" tubing. Uncertain if I will be switching out the res from a cylindrical to a swifty micro or a dual bay.
> 
> Airflow: fans will push from the lower bottom towards the back and it will have intake in the lower portion in the front.



How big is your radiator? It looks small but i'm guessing the drawing isn't to scale.

This the same case?  Googled some images.


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## Chicken Patty (Oct 27, 2011)

That looks great!


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## JrRacinFan (Oct 27, 2011)

the54thvoid said:


> How big is your radiator? It looks small but i'm guessing the drawing isn't to scale.
> 
> This the same case?  Googled some images.
> 
> http://hondaswap.com/gallery/data/589/medium/DSC01201.JPG



Same case and not to scale, mine's also going to look even cleaner. It's going to be a BIX II to start out and not adding the GPU to the loop just yet. May add a second rad in the not so near future but soon. Tomorrow is D-Day will post pics of the 'ware.


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## Chicken Patty (Oct 27, 2011)

I get my WC stuff tomorrow too!


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## JrRacinFan (Oct 27, 2011)

Chicken Patty said:


> I get my WC stuff tomorrow too!



Post in your log bro! Making any actual changes to the layout?


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## Chicken Patty (Oct 27, 2011)

Once I have the stuff I'm going to figure out the layout.  But yeah, I'll be posting here and in the log.   I'm going to be doing a little side project first.  Going to put my GTX295 on the tech bench rig and watercool it.  But no log for that though.

I really need to start folding again, that's why I am giving priority to that.


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## JrRacinFan (Oct 27, 2011)

Watercooled GTX295? Mmmm beefy, completely forgot you had that. Whats the PPD output of that, never asked you before. You ever get a new card replacement from that 8800GT?


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## Chicken Patty (Oct 27, 2011)

About 14-15k ppd stock clocks.


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## Chicken Patty (Oct 30, 2011)

My 2nd cruncher/folder.  Nothing pretty, just effective


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## JrRacinFan (Oct 30, 2011)

There's mine until I can situate a case mod and get a few needed parts. There's going to be some work needed.


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## Chicken Patty (Oct 30, 2011)

Little by little JR, glad to see you back into water cooling.


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## the54thvoid (Nov 27, 2011)

*Quick Disconnects*

A question for the guru's.

I'm building a new rig and installing w/c (of course). Well my 3930 will need some cooling when i thrash it's arse off!!

Anyhoo, I fully plan to get a new gfx card when the new series come out and w/c it as well.  To keep my loop hassle free i've bought a couple of 'Y' splitters which i plan to attach to the inlet on my reservoir and the outlet on my radiator.

Each 'Y' will have a redundant leg on it with a Phobya quick disconnect (one half).  When i buy my gfx card in (?) months time, I'll be able to easily swap it in (by attaching the other halves of the disconnects) and have a parallel cpu and gfx loop, without having to take anything apart.

Does this make sense to anyone? I've spent hours trying to figure out the fool proof way of upgrading the loop to a full loop without messing around with tube re-attaching and draining etc.


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## t_ski (Nov 28, 2011)

Just put the quick-disconnects before and after the video card.  That way, you can just power down the system, pull out the part of the loop with the video card in it, swap in the card with the new waterblock, and you're good to go.  No need for any Y connectors that I'm aware of.


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## the54thvoid (Nov 28, 2011)

The initial set up wont have a w/c gfx card (I have a GTX 580 lightning which serves me well).

I don't see another way without a second loop.  I've checked a few forum posts and although serial is the preferred choice I have come across a few parallel loops.  

My other option is to not be lazy and make a suitable drain port and just rework it when i get round to adding in the gfx w/c.


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## sneekypeet (Nov 28, 2011)

Or....take your disconnects and put them before and after the CPU block in the loop for just the CPU. Then when you get a card block, break the connections and pull the board. Build the board up and prep all the tubing and such on the table. Then its pretty much adaptive to any loop that has the other halves of the quick disconnect.

Let me draw in the dirt and see if I can explain it.
In the image the red blocks are the disconnects, and the blue curved lines are the CPU loop. As you can see the top line stays as it was originally. What changes its the out going tube from the CPU. When you add the block, you pull that chunk of tube once everything is on the table and you can set it around a bowl or a sink to catch what is in the board side of the loop. Then just go from the CPU to the GPU as the green curves denote. Then you clip it back into the loop, add some fluid as you re-bleed the loop, and presto!


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## the54thvoid (Nov 28, 2011)

Thanks Sneeky.

Found this pic and although it isn't exactly what I'll do, it reassures me it's ok to do it.  Disconnect on cpu outlet and on reservoir inlet.  So similar to your idea I can take out one length of tubing and then reroute from cpu to gfx to res.  And i saved a bit by buying Phobya disconnects, the Koolance ones were almost twice the cost.


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## sneekypeet (Nov 28, 2011)

yeah as far as I know they can go anywhere in the line, just a matter of hiding it while making sure its easy to get to


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## the54thvoid (Dec 1, 2011)

*Santa came early.*

If that is, you buy your own stuff....





and it all goes inside here...





Going to spray paint the interior black and take some time deciding the best way to set it up (not modding by any means).  For the record, whats the best method for getting a nice matt coat?  I've kept the box so i'll be using that as a 'paint studio'.
Bought an entire new set up (minus gfx) so i can keep using my current one while i get this going.  I'm not a very patient hobbyist but it's time I learned!  First step, nothing goes in until it's all black....


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## t_ski (Dec 1, 2011)

You could check out my TJ07 build log.  I did a similar mod with mine:

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133051


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## the54thvoid (Dec 1, 2011)

lol.

I've bought the same Lian Li panels, I've been looking at a Lamptron 6 fan controller, I've got the same D5 pump and top and Blue is my choice of colour for lightning, to go with the black innards.

I don't have the patience to tinker with the sleeves.

But yeah, it will be similar (but not quite as good as yours).  I need a USB 3 front panel as well.

I'm assuming any metal paint is okay as long as it's used with a primer and multiple even layers?


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## t_ski (Dec 1, 2011)

It's best to sand the surface as well, to make sure that the primer sticks well.  The bad part about painting all of it is that the pait comes off if scratched, so you have to be extra careful installing or removing equipment.


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## the54thvoid (Dec 1, 2011)

Found a spray that seems pretty solid.  I know it's good because my house now stinks, even though i've carefully sprayed some parts the fumes are everywhere (used the utility room off the kitchen).  Hoping it's dry tomorrow, I'll do the rest outside...

And what's the first thing you do when your new case arrives...


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## the54thvoid (Dec 2, 2011)

My Hardware Labs SR1 480 with 4 Enermax T.B Silence PWM fans (500-1500rpm).


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## MT Alex (Dec 2, 2011)

That is one purty radiator setup.  I'd recommend some black oxide socket head cap screws instead of the standard pan heads you are using to complete the look of total awesomeness.


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## the54thvoid (Dec 2, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> That is one purty radiator setup.  I'd recommend some black oxide socket head cap screws instead of the standard pan heads you are using to complete the look of total awesomeness.



Hmm.... worth considering. They do work with the chrome 'Enermax' banding at least.  Plus, it's going to be in the base hidden by the mesh.


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## N-Gen (Dec 7, 2011)

Hey guys, I got 2 questions.

First one is, since I have to ship my coolant from outside of the country since no one stocks it, if I run out (air is still gradually releasing so I need to top maybe 10 - 25ml every week or so, although it's pretty slow now), is it fine to top up with distilled water? I'm using EK Ekoolant.

Question 2, I have slight ambient temp problems, but when my room temp is about 25ish the idle temps are about 38-40. I don't have any problems under load because it's really rare for me to see it go over 50 unless stressing where it gets to around 58. The case is mounted sideways in a unit, so the only area that is open to air is the side of the case. I'm running push/pull with the push fans inside the case and the rad and the pull fans outside the case (top mounted not rear). 

There's about a 7cm clearance from the top of the pull fans to the shelf. What I'm thinking is happening is there's not enough exchange of air and a lot of warm air is staying around the fans and rad by coming back down when it hits the shelf. Would it be a good idea to mount a fan or two vertically behind the pull fans to push the air outside of the area towards to open space?


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## JrRacinFan (Dec 7, 2011)

Q1: Use plain distilled 24/7 and don't bother with coolant. I'm only using some because it came with my kit.

Q2: 58C load on wcing on intel is still good. Don't let it bother you. Have to remember, people run these things on stock coolers and see ~70C load @ stock clocks, they still run fine.

EDIT:


Oh N-Gen, care to give me a pic of how you got everything setup as follow-up from your wcing thread? Just curious....


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## N-Gen (Dec 7, 2011)

It's only the idle temps bothering me, however at night and right now it seems much better 32-33-36-33. Got an NZXT Sentry Mix arriving this week so I'm going to be turning all fans and the pump down, hopefully there won't be a big difference. I tried using my Delta PFB1212UHE on the rad and the my surprise there was no real significant difference in temperature.

I'm only using coolant for the sake of slowly colour coding the system in black/red/gold/silver.

Here's my setup the only difference is, the 2.5" cage has been removed and I put the drives in another bay because the pump was making contact and the vibration was insane.


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## JrRacinFan (Dec 7, 2011)

Thank you was wondering how you had it setup. Too bad you need more than 2 drives because you could have moved the pump above the bottom 3.5" cage alogn with removing the top 3.5" cage. Dual 5.25" bay res may work out better in the 912. Still trying to get a good case mod done to this rocketfish but isn't going to happen for quite a while.

@the54thvoid

Where did you get your rad stand? I am going to need one for my setup.


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## N-Gen (Dec 7, 2011)

Once the HDD prices go down those bays will probably be full anyway, gonna use all my sata ports up. Bay res is not an option anymore, Blu-ray drive, Sentry Mix 3.5 - 5.25 mount to compensate for the 3.5" bay my 2 x 2.5" occupied, SSD caddy with USB 3.0 ports that came with my mobo, so yeah that's basically all the bays taken.


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## MT Alex (Dec 7, 2011)

Your temperatures are fine, but your rad does seem a little starved for air.  I used to have a top mounted dually, but I cut my case to allow for better airflow.  It worked very well.


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## N-Gen (Dec 7, 2011)

I'm looking further into a similar mod to fit a 360 rad. If you look at my current rad you can see it's tight to the rear of the case and slightly backwards. The bottom fans are placed correctly in the case but since the rad is slightly displaced to the back there is an empty section kind of like having 2 steps in a staircase, the rad and top fans are the top one and the bottom fans are the bottom one. I'll attach a photo later since it's not easy to explain lol

Edit: Just to let you all know I'm new to this and only one of my mates is into water cooling so I had some help to pick. I ordered this custom kit the day I got my H80 since it failed on me, and boy am I glad I bought this even if it was more than double the H80s price + the satisfaction of doing stuff yourself is amazing.


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## Cold Storm (Dec 7, 2011)

Yeah, if your going to do a top rad like that, it's better to allow more air flow to it. When you place it up top, it's better to have legs set up so that the unit can get air. Think of it like a computer case on carpet. If your case doesn't have any clearance and the carpet just "sucks" it in, then your PSU, if bottom mount, and or fans will have a hard time working due to no way to "breath".. 

I've done then same thing as MX in some since... 













Man, that takes me back.. to some old stuff.. lol.. first loop..








That was from my Samsung Glyde phone.. lol.. 


I am thinking of placing it on the Corsair case now.. Got a few rads to play with..


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## N-Gen (Dec 7, 2011)

Hmm I completely forgot stand offs, should look into it. All fans externally or just as is with stand offs?


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## t_ski (Dec 7, 2011)

You'll need the fan tight up against the rad to keep the airflow going through the rad.


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## the54thvoid (Dec 7, 2011)

Coming along.  Just waiting on the new Raystorm 2011 socket adapters to get posted out.

Spray painted innards.  Have been lazy and not fully 'blackened' the case.  But i'm cool with it for now.




My pump-radiator plumbing...




Put a drain in this time...  Decided to ditch the quick disconnects, I didn't trust them.  Plain 1/2" bitspower barbs and 7/16" tubing suits me fine.




Waiting for that adapter set for the loverly Raystorm...




Though my arm could suffice if i keep the pressure on...




I have 4 Enermax TB silence PWM fans on the rad, one in the drive bay blowing air to the gpu and the two stock Silverstone 92mm intake fans (@21dB) have been replaced with 92mm Enermax ones @ 14dB.  The two 120mm ceiling fans are out.
A few bits and bobs to do.  Not quite near t_ski's standards but I'm quite happy so far.  Dreading my leak test after all my tubing and retubing but it's still part of the fun


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## t_ski (Dec 8, 2011)

Looks good   Glad to see you put in a t-line for the drain.  I forgot to do that the first time and regretted it.

Is that the Asus P9X79 Pro?  The funny thing is I just received mine today, along with a set or Corsair Vengeance 4x4GB (mine are black LP's though)


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## the54thvoid (Dec 8, 2011)

Yup. I went for the Pro because the Deluxe wasn't in stock but then figured, I didn't need what the Deluxe had for the price difference.  I went for the Blue Vengeance sticks to match the mobo!

Double check you cooler choice because I've had problems.  Koolance and EK sell 2011 stand offs to mount existing coolers on.  XSPC were a bit behind with their adapter screws (in transit).

My first & current w/c set up has no drain, that was my learning curve


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## t_ski (Dec 8, 2011)

Almost the same here.  I was looking at the boards and thought I didn't need the extras from the Deluxe, and I figured I could spend that money on some new SSD's.  I chose the black Vengeance LP's because almost everything else is black, and if I traded the mobo out for something else in the future, I figured the black would more than likely still match.

I was looking at the mounts on the board and the bracket on my Heatkiller and saw they would line up fine.  However, I was not able to figure out the height difference.  I sent an email off to Gary at Sidewinder Computers, and he replied that they are expecting some adapter kits for these blocks soon.

EDIT: I did some web serches and found Watercool's adapter kit consists of only a set of screws and a wrench:

http://server3.gs-shop.de/200/cgi-bin/shop.dll?SESSIONID=0346321659395471&PKEY=6915&AnbieterID=3395

Do you know what the screw length or thread pitch might be?  I've heard that they are supposed to be M4, but that's about all.


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## the54thvoid (Dec 9, 2011)

The Koolance kit looks quite neat.  Its *definitely* an M4 thread (http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cus...PU-360--CPU-370--BLT-CPINT2011-pid-14920.html) but the depth I couldn't say.  The pic does give a hint.






You still need matching 'knurls' and springs etc but they could be used from a 1366 kit (surely?)

If my XSPC adapters weren't in the pipeline I'd have just gotten these instead.


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## t_ski (Dec 9, 2011)

I have emails from Gary at Sindewinder Computers and hank at Performance PCs that say they have them on order and are hoping to get them soon (perhaps as early as next week).  My new CPU is supposed to arrive next week, so I may just see if I can find something local until I can get an official kit.  Chances are the local hardware stores won't have any nice looking stainless steel screws that will work.


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## N-Gen (Dec 9, 2011)

Hey guys, anyone know where I can get LEDs on G1/4 taps? I'd like to put some white light into the res to make the colour stand out a bit. Would be awesome if the cable was nicely sleeved.


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## sneekypeet (Dec 9, 2011)

Something like this?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...e=product_info&cPath=59_239&products_id=20557

or a blank you can add your own LED to.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...e=product_info&cPath=59_239&products_id=20564


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## Cold Storm (Dec 9, 2011)

the54thvoid said:


> The Koolance kit looks quite neat.  Its *definitely* an M4 thread (http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cus...PU-360--CPU-370--BLT-CPINT2011-pid-14920.html) but the depth I couldn't say.  The pic does give a hint.
> 
> http://cdn2.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/files/detail1/koolance/blt-cpint2011_p0.gif
> 
> ...



Is this what you need?


Raystorm/Rasa 2011 adapter set


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## N-Gen (Dec 9, 2011)

sneekypeet said:


> Something like this?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...e=product_info&cPath=59_239&products_id=20557
> 
> or a blank you can add your own LED to.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...e=product_info&cPath=59_239&products_id=20564



I forgot PPCs ship to my country! Thanks Peet, just what I needed!


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## SaiZo (Dec 9, 2011)

I have a question about watercooling: Is there any "failsafe" devices that can be added, say if the pump stops to function it cuts the power for the system instantly (so it can get overheated)? I have been thinking of gettin watercooling for my system for some time now (fans are a bit too loud), but I'm a bit paranoid...as usual.


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## Cold Storm (Dec 9, 2011)

seeing a pump blow up to where it's leaking water is a strange one in deed... Now, if it stops and there is no water flowing, you'll know from it doing a bsod due to heat and that should make you want to check your loop out. 

Most all pumps now a day are lasting longer then you think and lasting years to come.. It's really worth the work if you study and know what your doing from talking and working it out.. Now, what you need to do? leak test it first then allow the system to go in.. That's the most "fail safe" that it can go.. Also adding a temp thermometer will allow you to have a digital read out on what your water loop is temped at.. if it's higher then it should be, you can check it out... clean the fans, and go at it..

That's my thoughts and talks when a friend is thinking of water..


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## N-Gen (Dec 9, 2011)

Considering water pumps in loops are just modified aquarium pumps you should expect them to be able to take a heavy beating without any problems. I've seen aquarium pumps run for well over 10 years without any problems, so I think the chance of a pump failing just like that would be very unlucky, and as Cold said, the machine would just shut itself off to prevent it from burning up.


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## sneekypeet (Dec 9, 2011)

Isn't that what the temp sensing in the chips and the motherboard are for? ( CPU throttling on the chip and the setting in bios to shut the rig down due to temps)


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## N-Gen (Dec 10, 2011)

Also GPU throttling. I believe too high temps on a VGA card would BSOD as well, right?


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## sneekypeet (Dec 10, 2011)

It will crash the driver, keeping the cards at 2D speeds I believe.


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## the54thvoid (Dec 10, 2011)

If the loop is on PWM cooling then you'd notice the noise stepping up too.  As the guys have said, a cpu that gets too hot throttles or shuts down - gpu's are the same.  I think it's only over volting that can seriously burn things out.  Chips are designed with thermal limits and cut offs as design standards.

As for leaks, as Cold said, you leak test it first with mobo off and use either a psu hotwire method (paperclip or retail accessory) or a standalone molex power adapter.

Water cooling is actually very easy and tremendous fun if you have basic technical skills.  Just do the research on fans, fins and fluids.


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## N-Gen (Dec 10, 2011)

sneekypeet said:


> It will crash the driver, keeping the cards at 2D speeds I believe.



The driver crashed for me when my MemIO temps on GPU #1 hit 99 and roughly when the core on either GPU hit 90, but wouldn't the GPU run essentially at higher temps in idle than a CPU on water? Would take a few extra degrees till the CPU BSODs due to its own temp.


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## (FIH) The Don (Dec 10, 2011)

finally got my block mounted on my 5870, its just been laying in my drawer for like 4 months lol

but would you believe i threw away the mounting screws?
yeah i did 

but found small screws in my pc box thingie, its mounted now, just gotta cut one of the tubes in the rig and connect the thing, and yeah.....its gonna take some time lol, im wasted


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## Grings (Dec 10, 2011)

sneekypeet said:


> Isn't that what the temp sensing in the chips and the motherboard are for? ( CPU throttling on the chip and the setting in bios to shut the rig down due to temps)



I plug my pumps rpm sensor (or whatever that pin on a 3 pin fan connectors called) into one of my motherboard fan headers so i can monitor it from my mobo software (or speedfan etc)

I haven't checked on my current motherboard, but on my previous one there was an option to sound an alarm or shut down, should a "fan" fail.


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## Chicken Patty (Dec 10, 2011)

(FIH) The Don said:


> finally got my block mounted on my 5870, its just been laying in my drawer for like 4 months lol
> 
> but would you believe i threw away the mounting screws?
> yeah i did
> ...





Speaking of having stuff laying around for months, I just installed my CPU block on my AMD rig.  I've had that block for over a year without using it.


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## (FIH) The Don (Dec 11, 2011)

:shadedshu 

see lol 

at least i got it mounted now, but i think my gpu is dying on my, have had small green artifacts for a month now, talked to sneeky, he said it could be vram thats failing,

funny thing is that when i game theres no problems


----------



## JrRacinFan (Dec 11, 2011)

Grings said:


> there was an option to sound an alarm or shut down, should a "fan" fail.



See, I don't have that option, I use Speedfan for it though.


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## Chicken Patty (Dec 11, 2011)

(FIH) The Don said:


> :shadedshu
> 
> see lol
> 
> ...



So when do you get them?  When not gaming, like just browsing around and stuff?


----------



## (FIH) The Don (Dec 11, 2011)

exactly, and watching movies


----------



## Cold Storm (Dec 11, 2011)

(FIH) The Don said:


> exactly, and watching movies



Recheck the ram.. I had the same issues on video.. seen to be I set my multi of my ram down, and boom.. no more stuff.


----------



## Chicken Patty (Dec 11, 2011)

(FIH) The Don said:


> exactly, and watching movies



What CS stated could be, is system stable, does this one crunch?


----------



## Wile E (Dec 11, 2011)

Drivers and codecs can cause artifacting issues too. Update both.


----------



## (FIH) The Don (Dec 12, 2011)

Chicken Patty said:


> What CS stated could be, is system stable, does this one crunch?





Cold Storm said:


> Recheck the ram.. I had the same issues on video.. seen to be I set my multi of my ram down, and boom.. no more stuff.



vram or ram ram?

my ram is not oc'd, just running stock. and its started happening within the last month, and i had the system for like 5 or so.



Wile E said:


> Drivers and codecs can cause artifacting issues too. Update both.



already tried that, no go


----------



## Cold Storm (Dec 12, 2011)

I'm saying ram ram... play around.. just lower the multi... see if it works..


----------



## (FIH) The Don (Dec 12, 2011)

coolio  gonna try it out later then


----------



## Chicken Patty (Dec 12, 2011)

(FIH) The Don said:


> coolio  gonna try it out later then



So did you?  Stop slacking like you did with that water block...


----------



## (FIH) The Don (Dec 12, 2011)

i lowered the speed on the memory, and on my cpu, but it didnt help

i cant seem to find the multiplier on my memory, but this is SB, not P55, x58

cant find shit in this bios lol, well nuff tech talk here, its for wc lol


----------



## Chicken Patty (Dec 12, 2011)

It should definitely be in the BIOS dude...


----------



## N-Gen (Dec 14, 2011)

Well my fan controller arrived last Saturday, been toying around on different times of the day (diff ambient temps and what not), and I can say I'm really happy with all my fans on their lowest settings. CPU temp seems to be roughly the same, maybe with a 1-2 degrees Celsius fluctuation in real world usage. I didn't stress test yet because I have been caught up with World of Warcraft Syndrome yet again.


----------



## t_ski (Dec 16, 2011)




----------



## sneekypeet (Dec 16, 2011)

Damn someone is proud
Where did you get those leet invisible cables on the ODD in that first image?


----------



## t_ski (Dec 16, 2011)

I bought them from you, of course!  That's where I get all my leet goods


----------



## sneekypeet (Dec 16, 2011)

well played!


----------



## HammerON (Dec 16, 2011)

t_ski said:


> http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/5834/newloop1.jpg
> 
> http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/4297/newloop2.jpg



Very nice 
Now what are your overclocks and temps?


----------



## the54thvoid (Dec 16, 2011)

Whooh!

At last.  My M4 bolts came in for my Raystorm cooler.  New rig up and running (not done any OC yet :shadedshu).

Ran Prime 95 for 5 mins and temps hit an alarming 37 degrees , with fans stable at 700rpm.  Awesomely quiet machine.  No HDD, just two 120 GB SSD's for now.

Some pics.













Gonna bench 3DMark11 at stock to see how it fares to my old i7 920@3.6.

Next upgrade, any w/c next gen card!!


----------



## the54thvoid (Dec 16, 2011)

Just ran 3DMark11 at stock for the cpu and 950MHz core and 1075 on the memory.

http://3dmark.com/3dm11/2361228 - 7987

compared to 

7547 using	i7 920 @ 3.6ghz and same gfx card with core and memory @ 970/1125.

so 400 points more with slower clocks all around.


----------



## PopcornMachine (Dec 16, 2011)

the54thvoid said:


> Whooh!
> 
> At last.  My M4 bolts came in for my Raystorm cooler.  New rig up and running (not done any OC yet :shadedshu).
> 
> ...



Those are some sexy hardware close-up pictures!


----------



## t_ski (Dec 16, 2011)

HammerON said:


> Very nice
> Now what are your overclocks and temps?



No OC yet.  My temps are in the low 30's idle, which I'm wondering if I have a good mount on the waterblock.  I am not using official bolts, just some M4's I picked up at the hardware store.  My plan was to buy the official kit and some new thermal compound (I used the last of the tube on this mount and I haven't taken it off to see if it's spread out enough).


----------



## the54thvoid (Dec 17, 2011)

Ran a simple multi OC only with auto voltage (1.32v) and ran prime95 at 4.2GHz for half hour.  Temp maxed out at 49 degrees.

That sound fair?

Should say, my fans never went above 900 RPM to keep it that temp.


----------



## technicks (Dec 17, 2011)

t_ski said:


> http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/5834/newloop1.jpg
> 
> http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/4297/newloop2.jpg



Thats freakin awesome!


----------



## the54thvoid (Dec 21, 2011)

My X79 rig.  Does it need some lights under the gfx card???


----------



## (FIH) The Don (Dec 21, 2011)

having such a nice machine, you should do the cable management to perfection imo


----------



## the54thvoid (Dec 21, 2011)

I'd need to do some cable modding.  It's actually managed as well as i could due to the lengths of some of the supplied cables.  Rather than sleeve things I've also used black tape around the normally rainbow coloured case wires.  The led wires for the raystorm need some settling in but i could makethem more linear and less noticeable.

I might come back to it and try and get your approval.  Can't let the club down with shoddy cabling


----------



## (FIH) The Don (Dec 21, 2011)

thats the spirit, go for it, dont let the cables get to you!



but trust me, you will be so satisfied when you know it is "perfect" 

no compromises as Nils from MDPC would say

for the lights, try one of those NZXT LED kits, they are long so you can put it all the way around the window


----------



## the54thvoid (Dec 22, 2011)

A little better.  In my defense, all non black sheathed wires are taped up with black flexible insulating tape.





Look no wires (sort of).


----------



## Cold Storm (Dec 22, 2011)

Looking better. Hate how the block makes that area look due to wires... But a lot better improvement.


----------



## (FIH) The Don (Dec 22, 2011)

yup much better  

if you really want more help on it go check the cable management helpdesk, they know a few things there

oh, and if you want the tubing to look cleaner, take the cpu block and turn it 180degree to the right,


----------



## the54thvoid (Dec 22, 2011)

(FIH) The Don said:


> yup much better
> 
> if you really want more help on it go check the cable management helpdesk, they know a few things there
> 
> oh, and if you want the tubing to look cleaner, take the cpu block and turn it 180degree to the right,



Yeah, I wanted the Raystorm logo the right way up but you can't see it anyway, lol.

Thanks guys.


----------



## technicks (Dec 23, 2011)

Hi guys. 

Question. I am about to reconfigure my water loop cause i only have the CPU to cool now.
I have one 120 rad and a 360 Xflow. I am a little bit i doubt about how i'm going to connect it.
The easiest way for me is to go from the pump to the 120 to the CPU, from the CPU to the 360 back to the pump. Is the watertemp in the loop the same all over? Then it doesn't matter how i connect it, right? Or is it better to go from the 360 to the CPU? Some help is appreciated.


----------



## sneekypeet (Dec 23, 2011)

I don't know if the temp is that much different, but I always add the CPU to the loop or GPUs for that matter right after a rad for its best potential for cooler water

You can see in T ski's PC at the top of this page, he has the line going from the pump to the CPU, and he isn't complaining about temps either


----------



## technicks (Dec 23, 2011)

Yeah but will it make a huge difference if the CPU will be placed after the 120 or 360 rad? 
You can look at it from both ways. 

If i place the CPU after the 360 it might have ''cooler'' water then after the 120. 
But the 120 may struggle cooling the ''warmer'' water coming from the CPU more then the 360.
How about the option to connect the rad's together before leading them to the CPU?


----------



## t_ski (Dec 23, 2011)

Some people talk about heat dump from their pumps adding to the loop.  But for me, I was always concerned most with flow, so I've added the CPU block right after the pump.  I also do my best to reduce the tubing as much as possible.


----------



## basco (Dec 23, 2011)

really nice pics and setup


----------



## MT Alex (Dec 23, 2011)

technicks said:


> Hi guys.
> 
> Question. I am about to reconfigure my water loop cause i only have the CPU to cool now.
> I have one 120 rad and a 360 Xflow. I am a little bit i doubt about how i'm going to connect it.
> The easiest way for me is to go from the pump to the 120 to the CPU, from the CPU to the 360 back to the pump. Is the watertemp in the loop the same all over? Then it doesn't matter how i connect it, right? Or is it better to go from the 360 to the CPU? Some help is appreciated.





technicks said:


> Yeah but will it make a huge difference if the CPU will be placed after the 120 or 360 rad?
> You can look at it from both ways.
> 
> If i place the CPU after the 360 it might have ''cooler'' water then after the 120.
> ...



It won't make a difference either way.  After your computer has run for a while your water will reach a temperature equilibrium, so the same amount of heat will be removed no matter what order your loop is.  Just plumb it however makes sense and minimizes the length of tubing.

I used to be absolutely OCD about keeping a rad before each component, but I gave that up our of necessity on my last build, and am glad I did.  The only rule I still always follow is keeping the reservoir right before the pump.


----------



## sneekypeet (Dec 23, 2011)

MT Alex said:


> It won't make a difference either way.  After your computer has run for a while your water will reach a temperature equilibrium, so the same amount of heat will be removed no matter what order your loop is.  Just plumb it however makes sense and minimizes the length of tubing.
> 
> I used to be absolutely OCD about keeping a rad before each component, but I gave that up our of necessity on my last build, and am glad I did.  The only rule I still always follow is keeping the reservoir right before the pump.




Couldn't really agree more with this. It just so happens with my case I was able to get the rads before the components without too much fuss or extra tubing. My suggestion is once the case is there and you have all the parts, sort of play around with mounting and routing ideas prior to making any tubing cuts. One thing that I find really can simplify a loops look is 45* and 90* fittings before the barbs. This allows you to direct the tubing at things rather than large round bends to make it to the barbs that stick straight off of the components of the loop.


----------



## the54thvoid (Dec 23, 2011)

^^ Yes to this.

You live and learn.  Just built my second w/c pc and even though i bought some angled connectors the tubing was twisted due to torsion.  I would heartily recommend buying rotary fittings as these allow the tubes to 'spin' making tube management so much easier. I have three 90 degree elbows (two off pump and one off rad) with rotary fittings and they make things super.

Unfortunately my 30 degree angles off my cpu block are fixed and after remounting it I have (a) excess tubing and (b) torsion in the tubing.

Next time I'll get it 100%

Oh, and make a drain T port as well.  Essential imo.


----------



## t_ski (Dec 23, 2011)

sneekypeet said:


> Couldn't really agree more with this. It just so happens with my case I was able to get the rads before the components without too much fuss or extra tubing. My suggestion is once the case is there and you have all the parts, sort of play around with mounting and routing ideas prior to making any tubing cuts. One thing that I find really can simplify a loops look is 45* and 90* fittings before the barbs. This allows you to direct the tubing at things rather than large round bends to make it to the barbs that stick straight off of the components of the loop.



Oh, you mean like this? 



t_ski said:


>


----------



## (FIH) The Don (Dec 23, 2011)

^^ i like that


----------



## Chicken Patty (Dec 23, 2011)

Oh dear god, that's so puuurrrrrrrty!


----------



## PopcornMachine (Dec 23, 2011)

t_ski said:


> Oh, you mean like this?



Never get tired of seeing that rig. 

What are those blue fans you are using?


----------



## technicks (Dec 23, 2011)

Well this is how i fixed it. But i'm not satisfied.
The plan is to cut the bottom out of the case and mount the 360 rad in there. 
This way i can take about half the hose length out of the loop. 

I think i'm going to buy a new CPU block and new tubing. But i was also looking at the Lian Li T60 test bench. That's pretty sweet to. I might be in to one of those.


----------



## t_ski (Dec 24, 2011)

PopcornMachine said:


> Never get tired of seeing that rig.
> 
> What are those blue fans you are using?



Yate Loon medium speeds


----------



## sneekypeet (Dec 24, 2011)

t_ski said:


> Oh, you mean like this?



I was thinking more like this!


----------



## technicks (Dec 24, 2011)

Looking at a new waterblock i spotted this one:

http://youtu.be/iaw7oXGM2fg

This will look awesome in combination with my board!


----------



## sneekypeet (Dec 24, 2011)

found that last night, its Limited Edition, and my first thought was your motherboard as well


----------



## Chicken Patty (Dec 24, 2011)

sneekypeet said:


> I was thinking more like this!
> 
> http://img.techpowerup.org/111224/40.jpg
> http://img.techpowerup.org/111224/41.jpg
> ...



I know what you did there...

That's just not right :shadedshu    That's sexy right there.


----------



## sneekypeet (Dec 24, 2011)

Chicken Patty said:


> I know what you did there...
> 
> That's just not right :shadedshu    That's sexy right there.



It was just to get back at t_ski for the invisible cables retort he had before


----------



## technicks (Dec 24, 2011)

It's like $130 over here, but it's a good candidate for replacing my current one. It's a looker! Thats for sure.


----------



## t_ski (Dec 24, 2011)

Yeah, I was just gonna ask you about the new inviso-tubing you got there...


----------



## the54thvoid (Jan 13, 2012)

Hey guys, I have my 3930 running happily under water, maxing at mid 40's (one core at high 40's, mid 50's).  With my D5 vario and 120.4 SR1 would it be fine and dandy to add my proposed next buy (HD 7970) into that loop?

I figure I don't need any more cooling power for just one card , seeing as I have the quad already.  It's unlikely I'll o/c the gpu much and my 3930 stays at stock (well, auto's to 3.8).

Thoughts appreciated.


----------



## Chicken Patty (Jan 13, 2012)

With those temps I'd add it.  Sure CPU temps will go up but yo have a lot of headroom left.  Go for it! Got a pic of the current setup?


----------



## the54thvoid (Jan 13, 2012)

Chicken Patty said:


> With those temps I'd add it.  Sure CPU temps will go up but yo have a lot of headroom left.  Go for it! Got a pic of the current setup?



Yeah, post 1602.


----------



## t_ski (Jan 14, 2012)

I have the parts in my sig (CPU and 2x6970's) cooled with one 120x4 rad and one 120x1 rad just fine.  I probably don't need the second rad, but I am mostly using it for a 180-degree turn in the tubing.  Of course, the extra little bit of cooling it provides probably helps, too.


----------



## cdawall (Jan 28, 2012)

I haven't posted here in a bit, but got a question. After my tax return gets back I am going to have a local machine shop make one of these out of copper.






My loop is currently 25% Dex-Cool 75% water and has been tested to -10C circulating hot side would be pure distilled water while the cold side would be the dex-cool obviously. I have a MCR420, MCR320 and MCR220 stack plumbed into the loop with multiple 320/220's sitting on the shelf depending on how this goes. Circulation provided by a D5 (@D4) and D4. That would be for the TEC side obviously the CPU/GPU side will be a maze 4 GPU and I can't remember what the hell I have on the CPU doesn't matter. Got a MCP350+top for the pump. Fans on the rads are Delta 250+ CFM 120x32mm in a push/pull. 

What should I shoot for wattage wise on the TEC's that block will fit 9 40x40mm TEC's. I have the powersupplies to run pretty much whatever (a big pyramid and multiple meanwells). I don't pay for electricity so I don't really care about the power draw. I am shooting for very cold and I am going to get this to be an all in case minus the powersupplies just for giggles.


----------



## The Von Matrices (Feb 1, 2012)

I have a question about my loop.  I know that copper and aluminum together will cause galvanic corrosion, and I have an aluminum radiator and copper blocks.  But in order for galvanic corrosion to occur, the copper and aluminum parts would have to have electrical connection between them, right?

My aluminum radiator is mounted to my wood desk and is electrically isolated from the computer and the copper blocks, save for the minor conductivity of the water in the coolant tubing.  Do I need to worry about corrosion occurring over any reasonable period of time?


----------



## t_ski (Feb 1, 2012)

I thought it was a problem to have them both in the loop period, but I very well may be wrong...


----------



## m1dg3t (Feb 1, 2012)

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/ 

IMHO if you need to mix metal's (copper & alu for ex) you need to increase coolant service interval's


----------



## radrok (Feb 1, 2012)

t_ski said:


> I thought it was a problem to have them both in the loop period, but I very well may be wrong...



Yes it's a big problem because the Anodic Index of the Aluminum is lower than the usual metals used in a loop.

The differential in Anodic Index between metals in the loop must be less or equal than 0.15 V:

Nickel -0.30 V
Copper - 0.35 V
Brass -0.40 V

Aluminum -0.90 V, so it's safe to say that it's unsafe (no pun intended )


----------



## The Von Matrices (Feb 2, 2012)

radrok said:


> Yes it's a big problem because the Anodic Index of the Aluminum is lower than the usual metals used in a loop.
> 
> The differential in Anodic Index between metals in the loop must be less or equal than 0.15 V:
> 
> ...



Yes, but galvanic corrosion can only occur if the metals can exchange electrons, right?  And if the aluminum is electrically isolated, as it is being attached to a wood desk, then it can't exchange electrons with the copper blocks and therefore can't corrode.  Am I missing something important?


----------



## m1dg3t (Feb 2, 2012)

Unfortunately no, electrons are always present. But if there is a constant power supply thing's move along very quickly! There is a reason you don't see much if any aluminum in PC watercooling have a look at that link i posted and google some "watercooling corrosion" or similar see what ya get


----------



## radrok (Feb 2, 2012)

Yes it can only occur if there is an exchange of electrons so if the Aluminum is not in contact with water (or worse direct contact with another metal) then there is no problem.
As long as you don't have Aluminum IN THE LOOP you are safe.


----------



## The Von Matrices (Feb 2, 2012)

Okay, but the radiator is solid aluminum, so it _is_ in direct contact with the water.  So the aluminum radiator would eventually develop a hole and leak?  

That's not the thing I'm worried about though, since the radiator is outside of the case and would drip onto impermeable ceramic tile and damage nothing.  What I'm worried about is the copper blocks getting plated with aluminum and being ruined.


----------



## m1dg3t (Feb 2, 2012)

Like i said you need to do regular flushe's and i would suggest also using CLR when you flush to get the oxidization out of the system. i would flush evry 6 - 8 week's and use distilled water with some glycol. Just my $0.02


----------



## radrok (Feb 2, 2012)

Even the tubes are made out of Aluminum? If that is so just be sure to do regular flushes ( 2 months or so) and use an anti corrosion agent and you'll be fine.


----------



## the54thvoid (Apr 12, 2012)

*i7 3930 + LCS 7970*

Well, finally got my loop finished.  Apart from the smallest coil whine that doesn't bother me above gaming sounds it's pretty much where i want to be.  Temps on i7 3930 at a small oc (4GHz) are barely breaking 50 during BF3 and looping unigine on max settings 7970 rises to 43 degrees (at 1150 core).

The ludicrously large reservoir is what helps keep temps lower imo.  That and a quad 120 in the base and a single 120 in the front.

View attachment 46625

View attachment 46626

View attachment 46627


----------



## sneekypeet (Apr 12, 2012)

Looks good, be sure to jiggle it a bit once the air in the tubing is gone, just to be sure it isnt trapped in any of the blocks


----------



## the54thvoid (Apr 12, 2012)

I actually get a really annoying back flow from my single rad back to the cpu block (highest point on loop except for res).  It gets pushed back into the single rad when it boots up but it's hard to _jiggle_ a TJ07 around.  Just read your specs, at least I don't have to jiggle a TJ11 

Each time more air flows into the res so it'll go over time.  Doesn't affect temps which is good (only takes a minute or so for air to move away from block).


----------



## sneekypeet (Apr 12, 2012)

I get a bit of a gurgle every time I turn mine on. Luckily for me I had a rather large area to tumble the TJ11 around in when I filled the loop


----------



## t_ski (Apr 12, 2012)

the54thvoid said:


> Well, finally got my loop finished.  Apart from the smallest coil whine that doesn't bother me above gaming sounds it's pretty much where i want to be.  Temps on i7 3930 at a small oc (4GHz) are barely breaking 50 during BF3 and looping unigine on max settings 7970 rises to 43 degrees (at 1150 core).
> 
> The ludicrously large reservoir is what helps keep temps lower imo.  That and a quad 120 in the base and a single 120 in the front.
> 
> ...



Pics are down.  I'd love to see them, as it sounds like you copied my loop


----------



## sneekypeet (Apr 12, 2012)

t_ski said:


> Pics are down.  I'd love to see them, as it sounds like you copied my loop



Nah, his loop looks good Pics were working fine for me by the way Can you see them in this thread? http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164045


----------



## the54thvoid (Apr 12, 2012)

t_ski said:


> Pics are down.  I'd love to see them, *as it sounds like you copied my loop*



My 'copy' would not do your loop justice sir


----------



## MT Alex (Apr 12, 2012)

sneekypeet said:


> Nah, his loop looks good Pics were working fine for me by the way Can you see them in this thread? http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164045



Nope, I can't see them, either.


----------



## the54thvoid (Apr 12, 2012)

Weird, I can see them...

Does this one work?


----------



## MT Alex (Apr 12, 2012)

Sure does.  I love your lighting scheme


----------



## the54thvoid (Apr 12, 2012)

I'll post the other two pics for bling factor then using techpowerup.org image hosting as well.  Sorry if this means double pic posts.  We don't spend thousands of our hard earned cash to not share


----------



## t_ski (Apr 13, 2012)

Yeah, I can see those much better.  Thanks 

Here's how mine looked (at least before taking the 6970's and waterblocks out and replacing them with two air-cooled 7970's):


----------



## the54thvoid (Apr 14, 2012)

Hmm... I know you'll get those new blocks on water soon enough t-ski.

Incidentally Sneeky, I got the last of the air out by lying it on its side and booting up the pump.  Put an inch of air into the reservoir!

Here's more, this time with guts on display.


----------



## the54thvoid (May 10, 2012)

*EK water blocks, custom 680/7970 blocks coming*

Awesome news from EK water blocks:

http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/index....cleid=141&cntnt01origid=17&cntnt01returnid=17



> News
> Four new Full-cover water blocks available soon - 07/05/2012
> 
> 
> ...



I'm hoping a GTX 670 CUII is also in the works.  That will be my ideal choice, if prices stay favourable.


----------



## sneekypeet (May 10, 2012)

Love the EK I got for the HD7950. Kicks ass in temperatures and looked really good while doing it!


----------



## razaron (Jun 4, 2012)

I'm going to start WCing soon. Some of the parts are here, and the others will be arriving over the next 2 weeks. When flushing the radiators, should I flush the CPU/GPU blocks as well, and, is it okay to use ordinary hot tap water?


----------



## the54thvoid (Jun 4, 2012)

razaron said:


> I'm going to start WCing soon. Some of the parts are here, and the others will be arriving over the next 2 weeks. When flushing the radiators, should I flush the CPU/GPU blocks as well, and, is it okay to use ordinary hot tap water?



Not sure but if you do flush with tap water, I'd then rinse through once with distilled water.  If you buy ordinary de-ionised water from a local garage you'll see it's dirt cheap.  Point of avoiding tap water is the impurities in it as well as it's potential to corrode.

And with your loop, make sure you make a drain point low down in it.


----------



## Delta6326 (Jun 6, 2012)

I may end up doing my first WC build late this year, Here are the parts I'm looking at to cool.
1. Whats a good Rad.
2. Good Res
3. Tubing Whats good size? Color to go with parts?
4. Etc. parts
I'm just not for sure on any parts to get with it. I want to know some very good rads and Res. I was looking at the MCRES Micro Rev2 Reservoir I can fit a 240 rad up top. can be any thickness with this case as the MB lays flat on the bottom.
Was thinking about putting the Res on top of the HD cage.

Also looking at using the Swiftech Lok-Seal
Swiftech Apogee Drive II CPU Water-Block with Integrated Pump
BitFenix Prodigy

Only plan on cooling the CPU. GPU maybe later.
Corsair fans for Rad, Cougar for case. 






















Thanks everyone!!


----------



## t_ski (Jun 6, 2012)

If you go with the Prodigy, you will lose the 5.25" bay when using a 240mm rad.  You will have to go with an internal res (not a bay res), and I recommend something like the EK Multioption series (big as you can fit).  General rule is that a thicker rad will cool better (higher TDP CPUs) - not as critical if you're using a 65W CPU, but more important if using a 95W like the 3770K.

If you choose to use colored tubing, that's fine, and you'll find it much easier to cleanup after than using clear tubes and dyes.


----------



## Delta6326 (Jun 6, 2012)

t_ski said:


> If you go with the Prodigy, you will lose the 5.25" bay when using a 240mm rad.  You will have to go with an internal res (not a bay res), and I recommend something like the EK Multioption series (big as you can fit).  General rule is that a thicker rad will cool better (higher TDP CPUs) - not as critical if you're using a 65W CPU, but more important if using a 95W like the 3770K.
> 
> If you choose to use colored tubing, that's fine, and you'll find it much easier to cleanup after than using clear tubes and dyes.



Thanks for the good info.
I don't even need my DVD drive. Do you know any good Rads? I'm not for sure if the CPU block is copper or aluminum, but I do know your not supposed to mix them.


----------



## HammerON (Jun 6, 2012)

If I was you I would go with the MCR-X20 Drive:
http://www.swiftech.com/mcr-x20-drive-rev3.aspx
and a Apogee HD:
http://www.swiftech.com/apogeehd.aspx
for a total of $235.00 (w/ out shipping).
Add fittings and tubing and the price is around $300.00 for a w/c system that you can upgrade
http://www.swiftech.org/images/HD-setup.jpg


----------



## t_ski (Jun 6, 2012)

Not positive on the block, but I believe everything Swiftech makes has a copper base with either a stock acetal top or an optional copper top.  The Swiftech rads are cheap but perform well.  If you have a little more room in the budget you can go with a Hardware Labs Black Ice, XSPC, Fesser, Thermochill, etc:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/radiators.html


----------



## MT Alex (Jun 6, 2012)

HammerON said:


> If I was you I would go with the MCR-X20 Drive:
> http://www.swiftech.com/mcr-x20-drive-rev3.aspx
> and a Apogee HD:
> http://www.swiftech.com/apogeehd.aspx
> ...



I'm not sure you've checked out the Apogee Drive II that he plans on getting.  It's upgradeable, as well, in fact, it's everything you just linked to, minus the skinny Swifty rad.


----------



## Delta6326 (Jun 6, 2012)

Well after looking around I'm looking at getting the 
Apogee Drive II
EK-Multioption RES X2 - 250 Advanced  If it fits or 150.
EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (240) Or is their a much better one for same price?
Swiftech Lok-Seal fittings
EK-Ekoolant CLEAR 
Also I'm still not for sure on the tubing is their a higher quality product out their? and whats a good size? 1/2"?


----------



## razaron (Jun 6, 2012)

My pump and second rad arrived today. The pump is tiny. It's an Alphacool VPP655, which is basically a D5 Vario pump sans everything else. Now all I'm waiting on is the reservoir and some clamps.



Delta6326 said:


> Well after looking around I'm looking at getting the
> Apogee Drive II
> EK-Multioption RES X2 - 250 Advanced  If it fits or 150.
> EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (240) Or is their a much better one for same price?
> ...



I'm using 7/16" with 1/2" barbs. Seems to work fine. Also, IMO, you should get distilled water with an anti-algaecide, instead of the EK coolant.


----------



## MT Alex (Jun 6, 2012)

Here are a couple of alternatives to the EK rad.  I have the XSPC and couldn't be happier.  You will notice that the EK has 11 fins per inch, while the XSPC has <8, and the Coolgate has 7.  Less fins per inch means they are quieter and geared for lower speed fans.  Looking at the specs I honestly don't think the EK would perform any better than these, the extra $20 is probably for the EK name.  I didn't hunt around for a Thermochill, they used to be the cats ass, but I think these three have caught up to them, and they were always damn expensive.

*XSPC:* http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...t_info&cPath=59_457_667_671&products_id=25388

*Coolgate:* http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...t_info&cPath=59_457_667_945&products_id=30002

*EK:* http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...t_info&cPath=59_457_667_668&products_id=32495

EDIT:  razaron is right, don't squander money away on coolant.


----------



## Delta6326 (Jun 6, 2012)

Ok I will keep looking around at some Rad's then. So far do you guys see any problems? such has mixed metals?

EDIT: t ski what temps do you get with your loop? and is this your rad?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5...treme_480_Radiator_-_Black.html?tl=g30c95s570  Do you think the 240 version would work good in my loop?


----------



## razaron (Jun 6, 2012)

Why not get a separate pump and res? For example, an MCP355 and XSPC Rasa.
A comparison of rads, and, a comparison of cpu blocks.


----------



## MT Alex (Jun 6, 2012)

The pump in the Apogee is a MCP35X, which outperforms the 355 by quite a margin, and is PWM controlled.

Also, the GTX rads have super tight fins, and are made for leaf blower fans.  They work super well, but require hella fans.  I have a Black Ice Xtreme III 360 and it works very well.


----------



## Delta6326 (Jun 6, 2012)

I have hardly any room with the ITX case. So I wanted to go with the Apogee Drive II .

EDIT: thanks for the info. I will go through those reviews. If you go to my original post it has the parts I want to get.
http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2647334&postcount=1648

From the looks of the review the rad that would fit my needs the most is the XSPC RX240

My Idea


----------



## razaron (Jun 6, 2012)

Delta6326 said:


> I have hardly any room with the ITX case. So I wanted to go with the Apogee Drive II .
> 
> My Idea
> http://img.techpowerup.org/120606/Capture088.jpg



Wow. I didn't realize the case was _that_ small.


----------



## MT Alex (Jun 6, 2012)

With that setup, it looks like you could put a 45° fitting on the top of your res and add one of these fill ports up top.  There looks to be enough room between the venting and the edge of the case.  It would make it mountains easier in the long run.

Also, looking at that layout, you may want to choose a rad that has a fitting port on each side, they used to be fairly common, but not so much anymore.  It's just a thought, but it would make things much more streamlined if your tubing when straight up from your Apogee to the side of the rad closest to it, and then came out on the side nearest your res.

EDIT:  It actually looks like the EK rad you initially linked would give you that option by adding a 90° fitting.


----------



## Delta6326 (Jun 6, 2012)

My home internet broke was going to post that I could get theXSPC EX240 Crossflow and theEK-MultiOption RES X2 150  allows me to have top port facing the front case, and bottom port facing the back to the CPU  block. I don't think the 250 will fit 

My next question is what order should things be connected? Sense cpublock and pump are together.

Should it go pump/cpu to rad to res back to pump/cpu?

The general Idea.


----------



## t_ski (Jun 6, 2012)

Delta6326 said:


> Ok I will keep looking around at some Rad's then. So far do you guys see any problems? such has mixed metals?
> 
> EDIT: t ski what temps do you get with your loop? and is this your rad?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5...treme_480_Radiator_-_Black.html?tl=g30c95s570  Do you think the 240 version would work good in my loop?



Yep, that's mine.  CPU only in the loop right now, and water temps are around 22-23C while CPU idle temps are 28-36C.

You can save a few bucks on the coolant.  Most of us use plain distilled water.  If you want some kind of anti-fugal in the loop, a silver coil works for many.  And tubing: the big brands are Fessor, Primochill and Tygon.  Thicker-walled tubing (like 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD) will kink less, but be harder to bend.  If you need small/tight bends you might get some thinner-walled tubing (like 1/2" ID, 5/8" OD) and some anti-kink coils.

I have Primochill 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD tubing that is blue.  Look for my previous posts in this thread if you want some ideas...


----------



## razaron (Jun 6, 2012)

Here's how I'm going to set up mine. The res can be slid all the way to the left, so I have quite a bit of leeway.


----------



## radrok (Jun 7, 2012)

I think you'd be better of with a pump+reservoir combo, it's easier to manage the route with one part less unless you want to show a reservoir


----------



## razaron (Jun 7, 2012)

I like having them separate. It looks nicer (to me).


----------



## HammerON (Jun 7, 2012)

t_ski said:


> Not positive on the block, but I believe everything Swiftech makes has a copper base with either a stock acetal top or an optional copper top.  The Swiftech rads are cheap but perform well.  If you have a little more room in the budget you can go with a Hardware Labs Black Ice, XSPC, Fesser, Thermochill, etc:
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/radiators.html



It is not a superior block by far but is adequate for moderate to high overclocks. I would personally choose either the EK Supreme HF or Koolance 370. 



MT Alex said:


> I'm not sure you've checked out the Apogee Drive II that he plans on getting.  It's upgradeable, as well, in fact, it's everything you just linked to, minus the skinny Swifty rad.



It is upgradeable but does not include a res. I was trying to save space as the res (and pump) are incorporated into the MCR-X20.


----------



## the54thvoid (Jun 20, 2012)

*New GTX 670 EKWB out*

Hey troops, the new EKWB GTX 670 block is out.  It's a full cover and it's funny to look at.  It'd make a pretty neat dinky sli loop with these things in.

http://www.ekwb.com/news/221/19/EK-introduces-EK-FC690-GTX-and-EK-FC670-GTX/


----------



## 20mmrain (Jun 20, 2012)

Question guys..... Should I get rid of the O Clamps around my barbs and keep them naked? Or should I go for compression fittings?
Also if I do the first..... as long as it is leak tested do I have any worries of springing a leak later?
I want to clean up my case now..... and give it a little more professional look.
Also would like to hear from the masses on whether I should keep the blue an white theme..... or go Green and white? Green UV fans.... Green Tubing..... Green Cabling... and so on.


----------



## the54thvoid (Jun 20, 2012)

I've never used clamps*.  I use 7/16 tubing over 1/2 inch barbs, that alone is enough to hold it on tight.  I have never ever had a leak from a smaller diameter tube forced tight over a larger barb.  Even when i made adjustments to my current loop, i had to use a knife blade to carefully cut the tubing off as i couldn't easily remove it by hand.

*I did once but when i removed the clamp the hose looked to be malformed from it.  If I were removing clamps that had been on tight I'd also renew the tubing.


----------



## 20mmrain (Jun 20, 2012)

the54thvoid said:


> I've never used clamps*.  I use 7/16 tubing over 1/2 inch barbs, that alone is enough to hold it on tight.  I have never ever had a leak from a smaller diameter tube forced tight over a larger barb.  Even when i made adjustments to my current loop, i had to use a knife blade to carefully cut the tubing off as i couldn't easily remove it by hand.
> 
> *I did once but when i removed the clamp the hose looked to be malformed from it.  If I were removing clamps that had been on tight I'd also renew the tubing.



Thanks for the info ..... You and I use the same type of setup. I also use 7/16 tubing with 1/2 barbs. So you're saying that the 1/2 barb is enough to hold on the tubing on it's own. I always wondered that.....because even removing the tube normally is really tough.... it seems the over sized barb really holds on to that tubing.

Thanks for the info again.... I have always loved the look of no O clamp what so ever. It looks so clean.

Any opinions on color scheme?


----------



## Cold Storm (Jun 20, 2012)

Yeah, if your using 7/16 over the bigger barb, then you shouldn't ever need clamps. That's the main reason to do it that way.. Me, I still had so many compressions that I did so.. But, even that didn't help... It's coming down to the factor that every company is doing it, and not every company is building the compression fittings the way they should be...

As for your color.. the mobo is the theme of any case.. It's not fully the case, it's the mobo that you need to look at when your thinking of the loop.. So, for me, if it's black and greem.. go with it.. Don't throw in a rainbow unless your wanting it that way... Me personally I'd go all black since that's the main color of the board... if you want compressions and want green... Monsoon sells it.. but still do the smaller tubing over big fitting... I will never trust compressions again...


----------



## 20mmrain (Jun 20, 2012)

Cold Storm said:


> Yeah, if your using 7/16 over the bigger barb, then you shouldn't ever need clamps. That's the main reason to do it that way.. Me, I still had so many compressions that I did so.. But, even that didn't help... It's coming down to the factor that every company is doing it, and not every company is building the compression fittings the way they should be...
> 
> As for your color.. the mobo is the theme of any case.. It's not fully the case, it's the mobo that you need to look at when your thinking of the loop.. So, for me, if it's black and greem.. go with it.. Don't throw in a rainbow unless your wanting it that way... Me personally I'd go all black since that's the main color of the board... if you want compressions and want green... Monsoon sells it.. but still do the smaller tubing over big fitting... I will never trust compressions again...



Yeah sorry I said Green and White but I meant Green and Black. You see my last MOB was Black and Blue that is how the color combo started.... but I don't like how it looks right now with the green MOB in there.

Thanks for the opinion.


----------



## Delta6326 (Jun 29, 2012)

Hey guys was just wondering, if I was to water cool that mini ITX computer could i use copper tubing? Would it help temps? as I think it looks really commercial grade.

Do you think i could still use Lok Seal Compression Fittings? you can get Copper piping in 	3/8" 1/2"(<-I like this size most for piping), 1/2" 5/8"... It cost about $1 more per foot for Copper.

Like this


----------



## sneekypeet (Jun 29, 2012)

you can go solid copper, its been done by modders before, hell I even remember a whole case that was part of the loop (not really a case, more of an open air structure from 1/2" copper pipe).

The biggest issue is the cuts are very important because with a rigid system if one pipe is too long it will trow the next fitting off and so on down the line.

In my opinion, I say DO IT!!!!!


----------



## Delta6326 (Jun 29, 2012)

sneekypeet said:


> you can go solid copper, its been done by modders before, hell I even remember a whole case that was part of the loop (not really a case, more of an open air structure from 1/2" copper pipe).
> 
> The biggest issue is the cuts are very important because with a rigid system if one pipe is too long it will trow the next fitting off and so on down the line.
> 
> In my opinion, I say DO IT!!!!!



I have a sample of 14" 1/8" ID,1/"4 OD.  Do you think 1/4" 3/8" or 3/8" 1/2" would be better/easier to use?

The main problem im having is bending it, I'm probably going to need some special tools to get a very clean bind with no kinks. 

I ran water over the top of one end and it was flowing out the other end and I'm not even for sure how fast my flow rate is from my sink. 
I tried using my hot water and the pipe got very hot to hold on to(I do have very hot home water Just wish i had a temp prob to get water temp to compare), do you think having copper pipes would increase loop temp? I did try just blowing on the pipe and it would get cooler so I think with a good intake fan blowing on the loop it would be good enough.

Side note: Would a temp sensor that uses a laser pick up water temps?


----------



## t_ski (Jun 29, 2012)

http://www.overclockers.com/the-afr...ntal-copper-half-passive-watercooling-system/


----------



## what_what3 (Jun 29, 2012)

Delta6326 said:


> I have a sample of 14" 1/8" ID,1/"4 OD.  Do you think 1/4" 3/8" or 3/8" 1/2" would be better/easier to use?
> 
> The main problem im having is bending it, I'm probably going to need some special tools to get a very clean bind with no kinks.
> 
> ...




No special tools required, 

cut tubing ~.75" longer than needed
crimp 1 end in a vise or seal end w/ hot glue or plug end w/ bread ( old plumbers trick ) 
fill tube with water
crimp or seal the 1 remaining open end
place upright in freezer until frozen
now bend to your hearts content - just work fast

use a mandrel of some sort - a sections of pvc pipe a great due to the variety of size


----------



## razaron (Jul 6, 2012)

Finally got my WCing set-up. The max temps are 35C and 39C for the GPU and CPU. That's with a case temp of 27C when they are individually at 100% load. I still need to test the case temps when both are simultaneously at 100% load.


----------



## the54thvoid (Sep 22, 2012)

Bought myself an MSI 7970 OC (all solid caps) to either replace or add to my current Powercolor LCS 7970.  The PC card has a little bit of coil whine and I want zero whine.  Little did i know, lots of cards exhibit it a little when you can't hear the fan covering it 

So I bought the MSI one as I thought solid caps might help.  Well, of course it didn't.  Caps don't cause coil whine, chokes do.  The whine is tiny though, not really an issue.  My PC is damn near silent so I hear even the odd bubble going through the rad.

Anyway, I tried to crossfire the cards but the tubing became an issue as the new block I put on the MSI card doesn't lineup with the inlet of the PC card and tubes don't flex in such a short space.

Anyway, I kept the new card in and at the moment the PC card is for sale (in the forum).  

Here's the very similar but different current set up.  Both inlet and outlet are on the underside of the card.  I replaced the stock MSI fan cooler with the EK CSQ water block, backplate and a single slot I/O plate.  It looks pretty neat to be honest.

If I don't sell the other card quick smart, I will persevere with the crossfire build


----------



## MT Alex (Sep 23, 2012)

the54thvoid said:


> Anyway, I tried to crossfire the cards but the tubing became an issue as the new block I put on the MSI card doesn't lineup with the inlet of the PC card and tubes don't flex in such a short space.



If your blocks don't line up exactly, such as mine, it is still possible to use tubing and flex it in such a small length.  Cut your tube to the exact length you need, then drop it in boiling water for 15-30 seconds.  It will then be pliable enough to jump the angled bridge, even if it is pretty drastic.  Here's mine:


----------



## Cold Storm (Sep 23, 2012)

Also, lane issue shouldn't be a problem... your not going to notice a HUGE difference if you have crossfire in the first or 3rd lane that the board shows for "crossfireX"...








Yes, it's ati with physx, but the same thing as what MT is going with..


----------



## the54thvoid (Sep 23, 2012)

Nice work guys.  I've got an alternative as well.  I have "Y" fittings.  I might run my gfx cards in parallel.  Means the flow will be reservoir - pump - 480 radiator - cpu - 120 radiator -then it splits to each gfx card and the returns join at another "Y" back to the reservoir.

If my card don't sell, I'll post picks when I get the loop up.


----------



## t_ski (Sep 23, 2012)

I forgot all about this thread   Here's my latest project:


----------



## Animalpak (Sep 24, 2012)

I see alot of $$ !


----------



## radrok (Sep 24, 2012)

I see a lot of circles


----------



## Delta6326 (Sep 24, 2012)

t_ski said:


> I forgot all about this thread   Here's my latest project:
> SNIP.



Freaking awesome MAN! Great pic's. 

What Compression fittings you using? How's temps?


----------



## t_ski (Sep 24, 2012)

Those are Bitspower 1/2" ID 3/4" OD Shining Silver.  Idle temps right now:






Ambient temps are about 20C.


----------



## Chicken Patty (Sep 24, 2012)

t_ski said:


> I forgot all about this thread   Here's my latest project:
> 
> http://imageshack.us/a/img585/3696/7970csq1.jpg
> 
> ...



Geez, that's just art right there man, amazing!


----------



## the54thvoid (Sep 25, 2012)

Here's a question...

Given that a loop's ambient water temp will stabilise after a while, does it really matter where the loop goes first (i.e - cpu-gfx-gfx)?

I've just realised that the easiest no fuss tubing i can do is to use the feed straight from the radiator and go:

res -> pump -> rad (120.4) -> gfx2 -> cpu -> rad (120.1) -> gfx1 -> res.

As in below pic


----------



## t_ski (Sep 25, 2012)

It does not matter so much as the water temps should be the same no matter which order you go in, but it may make your CPU a little warmer than normal.  Typically, the secondary GPU will not get as warm as the primary GPU, so it shouldn't be too bad.  I usually try to run CPU -> GPU1 -> GPU2 etc. to get the lowest temps possible on the CPU since it tends to be pickier about heat than a GPU.  A watercooled GPU should get nowhere near as hot as an air-cooled GPU.  Hell, my GPU load temps under watercooling are lower than my idle GPU temps under air-cooling. 

In the end, it's what matters most to _you_.


----------



## cdawall (Sep 25, 2012)

Putting the CPU in a hot section of the loop has always been a no-no. The overall water temp wont change however if you were to check temps pre-CPU and post-CPU they will be high post-CPU same goes for video cards.


----------



## Guitar (Sep 25, 2012)

I've got the Thermaltake Water 2.0 Pro. Never had a water cooling system before, but during my new build it wasn't that much more expensive than a good HS/F so I decided to pull the trigger. It is quiet for me and works well!


----------



## t_ski (Sep 25, 2012)

Most of the small all-in-one kits work about as well as high-end air coolers and cost about the same.  Custom watercooling kits work much better, but obviously depends on the customer's needs.


----------



## cdawall (Sep 25, 2012)

SO I am looking for a new water block to replace the aging DTek Fuzion V1 I have not that temps are bad with it (40C load), but from what I hear the new chips are a little to hot for them and with the pair of other blocks going on my GPU's I only want a single tear down of the loop.

http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/cpu-waterblocks/raystorm-cpu-apu-waterblock-amd/

Worth it?


----------



## Delta6326 (Sep 26, 2012)

cdawall said:


> SO I am looking for a new water block to replace the aging DTek Fuzion V1 I have not that temps are bad with it (40C load), but from what I hear the new chips are a little to hot for them and with the pair of other blocks going on my GPU's I only want a single tear down of the loop.
> 
> http://www.xs-pc.com/products/waterblocks/cpu-waterblocks/raystorm-cpu-apu-waterblock-amd/
> 
> Worth it?



Totally the Raystorm looks so awesome! They are also good performer.


----------



## the54thvoid (Oct 3, 2012)

I've just spent a mini fortune on more water cooling parts.  Due to the heat from my GPU's, the cpu temp is rising more, so I've decided to split the loop and run a dual loop with two separate systems.

Going to run the gfx cards in a parallel loop from my 120.4 SR-1 radiator and the CPU is going to run from two 120.1 XTX Coolstream radiators in series.  Ordered a second D5 pump for the new cpu only loop.

I'll post pics once my cursing and swearing is all finished when i build it up.


----------



## HammerON (Oct 3, 2012)

I like dual loops personally. Can't wait to see pics


----------



## t_ski (Oct 3, 2012)

the54thvoid said:


> I've just spent a mini fortune on more water cooling parts.  Due to the heat from my GPU's, the cpu temp is rising more, so I've decided to split the loop and run a dual loop with two separate systems.
> 
> Going to run the gfx cards in a parallel loop from my 120.4 SR-1 radiator and the CPU is going to run from two 120.1 XTX Coolstream radiators in series.  Ordered a second D5 pump for the new cpu only loop.
> 
> I'll post pics once my cursing and swearing is all finished when i build it up.



How do you plan to mount the two 120.1 rads?


----------



## the54thvoid (Oct 3, 2012)

They'll sit stacked with the tubing linking them. The rads have inlets on front and back so I'll use a very small tube connection with stubby barbs.  I'd draw a pic but I'm posting from my phone on work.


----------



## t_ski (Oct 3, 2012)

And they'll sit in the front 5.25" bays, right?


----------



## the54thvoid (Oct 3, 2012)

Yes. Where my single 120 is now.


----------



## the54thvoid (Oct 5, 2012)

*New Dual Loop - 8 hours of puzzling!*

Hey all,

So I took a day off work, took my deliveries and spent 8 solid hours (minus 45 mins with Mr Hawking's Universe for lunch).

I'm now running a dedicated gfx loop in parallel and a dedicated cpu loop with twin 120 rads in series.  It's amazing what fits inside a TJ07 case. 

EDIT: Tried some benchies.  With fans at 600rpm my top temp on cpu (at 4GHz was 72 degrees after running Intel Burn test for 5 loops on Very High Stress).  Ran Heaven 3.0 a good few times and the gfx cards were moving to low-mid 50's (again - 600 rpm fans).  Played some BF3 (20-30 mins) after all the preceding and the cpu stayed way cooler, mid 50's-low 60's) but that was with adjusted fan profiles so the two 120's were running faster.  All in all very happy - I now have a more technically organised loop and a quieter & cooler one despite running 2 overclocked 7970's and a i73930k (which I'll pop back up to 4.2GHz).

Anyway, hope you like the pics.

Dismantled most of the old loop.  This was the easy bit.







This monstrosity cools the cpu.  Twin 6cm XTX rads with 2 x Enermax PWM fans. 20cm thick.






GFX loop installed.  Surprisingly easy to do.  Using Alphacool Y-splitters and rotary 90 degree barbs.  It took me forever to figure out where to put the pump and res for the cpu loop. In the end it seemed so obvious for the reservoir to be suspended where it is.






Arty shot with my ugly mug reflected.






Now for the glam shots!!! (one wont load and it's my avatar pic - it's the prettiest!)


----------



## cdawall (Oct 10, 2012)

Update my SG-05B






link to the build thread


----------



## cdawall (Oct 10, 2012)

What are typical pump temps for a laing D5 vario@4 and a laing D4?






Optional temp 2 is the D4, optional temp 1 is the D5, (temp 3 is the copper plate on the CPU block ), just seems odd to me the temp difference between the two?



And does anyone have any experience with one of the XSPC dual Laing D5 bay res's? I am looking to clean the case up a smidgen and that would help.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xstwd5dubayr1.html


----------



## t_ski (Oct 10, 2012)

To me it would make sense that a newer pump would run cooler.


----------



## cdawall (Oct 10, 2012)

t_ski said:


> To me it would make sense that a newer pump would run cooler.



What is odd about that is the D4 is older running full speed while the D5 is knocked down to 4 on the dial.


----------



## MT Alex (Oct 10, 2012)

cdawall said:


> What is odd about that is the D4 is older running full speed while the D5 is knocked down to 4 on the dial.



That's probably why, just like a light switch with a rheostat is warmer to the touch.


----------



## the54thvoid (Oct 12, 2012)

Bah,

My twin linked 120.1 rads aren't performing as i thought they would. My cpu temps are getting too high.  In real life stress (BF3) the hottest core is hitting high 60's.  When i ran Prime the hottest core hit 79 today and that was with a very minor overclock (3.8GHz).

The radiator housing is very warm to touch so i know the heat is being taken away from the cpu, it just seems to be that the cooling set up is inadequate.  I think the first radiator is just venting hot air onto the second and the heat dumped onto it negates the convection of heat away.

The cores idle at about 26-37.  When i start Prime the top temp rises to 56 degrees immediately (no issue there).  But after ten minutes the top temp is at 70 and climbing.  It leveled off yesterday at 74/75 degrees.

It looks like the loop is heating up and not dispersing enough heat.  The stacked 120.1's don't work well it seems.  Plus a low volume of coolant in the loop.

Think I'll get a 240 radiator and remove my optical drive.  Shove the new rad vertically in the front bays.  And get a bigger reservoir.


----------



## radrok (Oct 12, 2012)

Have a look at this
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/06/08/hesmelaughs-radiator-sandwich-testing/

Stacked radiators perform terribly compared to separated and even to a single.
Are those fans carved with Enermax logo?
If that is so they may probably lose static pressure due to an alternative air escape path ( I am just guessing though )I may be wrong about them.


----------



## the54thvoid (Oct 12, 2012)

Yeah, thanks for the link Radrok. I've purchased a 240. Two 120 rads coming to the buy/sell forums soon, lol.

EDIT: Quick drain and some jiggling about.  Removed the sandwich fan and temps about 5 degrees better now.  Will still install the 240 rad though, should cool it better with no heat dumping onto the cooling set up.

Who'd a thunk it? Sandwiches may work on air coolers but on rads they make it worse!


----------



## cdawall (Oct 12, 2012)

radrok said:


> Have a look at this
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/06/08/hesmelaughs-radiator-sandwich-testing/
> 
> Stacked radiators perform terribly compared to separated and even to a single.
> ...



The issue with radiator stacking is people do not keep a high enough static pressure across them. With radiator stacking like use while using 38mm 255CFM fans temps were lower with the stacked rads vs without. It would be no different than managing to use 6 fans on a double thick radiator.


----------



## the54thvoid (Oct 12, 2012)

My problem is I use low rpm fans with low air movement (my PC is very quiet).  I can get them higher but in this instance as well the sandwiched fan was of lower rpm (whoops).  Didn't realise it until i got it set up...

Played 1/2 hour of BF3 there and temps stayed 55-65 (@3.8GHz).  Happier now but will enjoy tinkering again next week to finally finish my PC.


----------



## cdawall (Oct 12, 2012)

the54thvoid said:


> My problem is I use low rpm fans with low air movement (my PC is very quiet).  I can get them higher but in this instance as well the sandwiched fan was of lower rpm (whoops).  Didn't realise it until i got it set up...
> 
> Played 1/2 hour of BF3 there and temps stayed 55-65 (@3.8GHz).  Happier now but will enjoy tinkering again next week to finally finish my PC.



Mine are knocked down to 5v so they move air, but not the 255CFM they are rated for


----------



## the54thvoid (Oct 12, 2012)

I guess at 255CFM the damn thing would hover across your room


----------



## cdawall (Oct 12, 2012)

the54thvoid said:


> I guess at 255CFM the damn thing would hover across your room



The side panel flexes inward...That's 10 255CFM exhaust fans all in the top of the case...


----------



## radrok (Oct 12, 2012)

cdawall said:


> The issue with radiator stacking is people do not keep a high enough static pressure across them. With radiator stacking like use while using 38mm 255CFM fans temps were lower with the stacked rads vs without. It would be no different than managing to use 6 fans on a double thick radiator.



I know about that but which fool would run 255 CFM fans at full throttle?

Really, if you are watercooling and your rig is noisy then you are missing a big part of it.

I'd rather use more radiator surface than faster fans, anything over the GT 1850rpm is noisy for me.


----------



## cdawall (Oct 12, 2012)

Tore down my case to redo the cables...


----------



## MT Alex (Oct 12, 2012)

That's an enormous reservoir behind your case


----------



## cdawall (Oct 15, 2012)

radrok said:


> I know about that but which fool would run 255 CFM fans at full throttle?
> 
> Really, if you are watercooling and your rig is noisy then you are missing a big part of it.
> 
> I'd rather use more radiator surface than faster fans, anything over the GT 1850rpm is noisy for me.



Yes, but those fans at 15.5V (~8A for the pair) are able to do things like this *@1.63v*






Using a humble H70. Now when my ears stop ringing I will try a couple more benchmarks


----------



## vawrvawerawe (Nov 13, 2012)

good info, thanks.


----------



## cdawall (Nov 13, 2012)

Looking at building a quiet big HTPC with the HAF XB.

Parts list in planning






I already have the two lower rads (120x2 and 120x1) just listing them for posterity. Loops will be cooling the CPU and possibly dual GPU's.


----------



## Athlon2K15 (Nov 13, 2012)

this case?


----------



## cdawall (Nov 13, 2012)

AthlonX2 said:


> this case?
> 
> http://img.techpowerup.org/121113/SAM_2088951.jpg



Yea the one you snagged from sneeky!


----------



## paopaovocal (Nov 13, 2012)

*my water cooling system*

After wating liquid cooling parts for long time.Here it is.



























more pics here


----------



## Athlon2K15 (Nov 15, 2012)

cdawall said:


> Looking at building a quiet big HTPC with the HAF XB.
> 
> Parts list in planning
> 
> ...



I can almost guarantee all that watercooling wont fit in this HAF XB.Id eliminate the 80mm rad and go with the dual rads up top


----------



## cdawall (Nov 15, 2012)




----------



## Velvet Wafer (Nov 15, 2012)

cdawall said:


> http://img.techpowerup.org/121115/20121115_023656[1].jpg



oooh! Triplet Watercooling Fun! let us see the benches when youre finished, CDA


----------



## cdawall (Nov 15, 2012)

Velvet Wafer said:


> oooh! Triplet Watercooling Fun! let us see the benches when youre finished, CDA








Motherboard is labeled out for delivery so it should be here soon so I can finish this up.


----------



## cdawall (Nov 17, 2012)

Motherboard was DOA, but I wanted to test fit the setup to get all the tubing cut.






Rest of the thread


----------



## t_ski (May 3, 2013)

I'm putting the paddles on this thread to resessitate it.  Can you guys give [Ion] some advice?



[Ion] said:


> The 3930k/HD7930 is now out of comission--I took apart my loop to add the second radiator, only to find that it was fully of green growth.  And when I tried to re-build the loop with tubing from a friend (left over from a fountain project) it leaked.  So I'm obviously not going to put the system on that.  And the 300GB boot drive seems to have taken a dump.  I'll be ordering new tubing tomorrow, but I don't expect to have things going again before maybe Tuesday



Will new tubing and clamps get him up and going?  This is for a Thermaltake Bigwater 760 kit BTW.


----------



## [Ion] (May 3, 2013)

t_ski said:


> I'm putting the paddles on this thread to resessitate it.  Can you guys give [Ion] some advice?
> 
> 
> 
> Will new tubing and clamps get him up and going?  This is for a Thermaltake Bigwater 760 kit BTW.



Actually it's not--this is for the custom loop I've but on my 3930k (the TT Bigwater kit is doing great).

Specs are:
XSPC RX240
XSPC Raystorm
XSPC X20 750 Dual 5.25" Pump / Reservoir Combo 

I've tossed the old tubing--will buying new tubing and clamps be sufficient?


----------



## the54thvoid (May 3, 2013)

The Bigwater is a pre-assembled factory unit?  I had a look just there at a review of one.  The barbs are 3/8" so i don't see why you couldn't just add new tubing and clamps to be safe.  As long as the cpu block is there too.  Or indeed, i guess this could be used to cool a gpu?

It is noisy at load though (says the review).

EDIT: too late .....



[Ion] said:


> Actually it's not--this is for the custom loop I've but on my 3930k (the TT Bigwater kit is doing great).
> 
> Specs are:
> XSPC RX240
> ...



Yes, it would.  I'd go for tubing that is one size narrower than the barbs you use.  And on that front - remember your fittings.... (barbs or compression)


----------



## sneekypeet (May 3, 2013)

[Ion] said:


> Actually it's not--this is for the custom loop I've but on my 3930k (the TT Bigwater kit is doing great).
> 
> Specs are:
> XSPC RX240
> ...



my guess is that the fittings are what leaked. You must wrench in those fittings to keep them from leaking, because just a slight twist in the tube is enough to back the fitting out when installed finger tight like you can with say a BitsPower fitting. Clamps aren't such a big deal, I mean I have used zip-ties, or those Herby clips that come with the kits.


----------



## the54thvoid (May 3, 2013)

sneekypeet said:


> my guess is that the fittings are what leaked. You must wrench in those fittings to keep them from leaking, because just a slight twist in the tube is enough to back the fitting out....



That's why i like rotary fittings.  Freedom to move the tubing.


----------



## t_ski (May 3, 2013)

[Ion] was looking at some 7/16" Primochill tubing.  1/2" clamps are OK with this, right?

Thanks guys!


----------



## sneekypeet (May 3, 2013)

I used 3/8" and there was no need for clamps as you have to heat and stretch the tubing. 7/16" isn't enough of a jump to warrant clamps in my opinion as I would guess that needs stretched as well.

1/2" clamps wont close enough and may make them be out of round or in the case of the Herby style clamps, may not close with any pressure.


----------



## t_ski (May 3, 2013)

These clamps:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5390/ex-tub-135/12_OD_Reusable_Clamp_-_Black.html

to go with this tubing;

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...A10-758-BK_w_Free_Sys_Prep.html?tl=g30c99s809


----------



## sneekypeet (May 3, 2013)

t_ski said:


> These clamps:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5390/ex-tub-135/12_OD_Reusable_Clamp_-_Black.html
> 
> ...



Let me find one of mine, squeeze it all the way closed, and get the calipers out to find the minimum ID of the clip (also those are what I was calling Herby clamps).

I figured out what I missed. My clamps are 3/4" OD clamps, and when the clip is all the way closed I get a measurement of 47/64" (just less than 3/4") or 18.5mm. From what I am seeing, the 1/2" clamp may tighten enough for pressure on the hose, but since he has to stretch the tubing, essentially he is thinning the OD of the tubing as well. Also with that same clamp just locked on one click, it is 15/16" wide, so maybe using 3/8" clamps and not closing them all the way is a better way to look at the clamps needed.


----------



## [Ion] (May 3, 2013)

the54thvoid said:


> The Bigwater is a pre-assembled factory unit?  I had a look just there at a review of one.  The barbs are 3/8" so i don't see why you couldn't just add new tubing and clamps to be safe.  As long as the cpu block is there too.  Or indeed, i guess this could be used to cool a gpu?
> 
> It is noisy at load though (says the review).
> 
> ...


I'm running the TT Bigwater on a 3.8GHz E8500--it's doing great.  Last night I robbed off the fan and forgot to put on a new one, and the system remained fully stable (albeit at 80C)


sneekypeet said:


> my guess is that the fittings are what leaked. You must wrench in those fittings to keep them from leaking, because just a slight twist in the tube is enough to back the fitting out when installed finger tight like you can with say a BitsPower fitting. Clamps aren't such a big deal, I mean I have used zip-ties, or those Herby clips that come with the kits.


It's not the fittings.  I didn't have enough of the factory tubing to reassemble it, so I tried to use some tubing left over from a fountain project one of my friends did last semester.  The tubing is too big for the barbs--that's what leaked.  The kit came with some of these--they do a good job, but I don't have enough.  I think that if I buy half a dozen of them and then seven feet of this I should be good to go.  I _think_


sneekypeet said:


> Let me find one of mine, squeeze it all the way closed, and get the calipers out to find the minimum ID of the clip (also those are what I was calling Herby clamps).



Thank you!  Would cable ties work?  The only ones I Have here are tiny ones, but I have some real ones at home (I'm moving home again in a week, anyways)


----------



## sneekypeet (May 3, 2013)

I have had great success with zip ties and a pair of pliers to make sure it is tight, then just clip off the excess.


----------



## [Ion] (May 3, 2013)

sneekypeet said:


> I have had great success with zip ties and a pair of pliers to make sure it is tight, then just clip off the excess.



OK.  In that case should I just order the tubing?  Would that be sufficient to last a few days until I can cable-tie it as well?


----------



## sneekypeet (May 3, 2013)

well the 750 pump isn't that powerful, so I am guessing that the 7/16" tubing should stay in place just with the pressure of the barb on the fitting. I use 3/8" without any clamping on 1/2" barbs and you have to cut it off the fitting. 

To tell if you are going to be okay without anything, put the hose on a fitting attached to say the CPU block, then pull on the tubing while holding the block. If it pops right off, you need something to clamp it, if it stays in place, you are good to go.


----------



## [Ion] (May 3, 2013)

sneekypeet said:


> well the 750 pump isn't that powerful, so I am guessing that the 7/16" tubing should stay in place just with the pressure of the barb on the fitting. I use 3/8" without any clamping on 1/2" barbs and you have to cut it off the fitting.
> 
> To tell if you are going to be okay without anything, put the hose on a fitting attached to say the CPU block, then pull on the tubing while holding the block. If it pops right off, you need something to clamp it, if it stays in place, you are good to go.



With the tubing that came with the kit, I can't remove the tubing from the fitting unless the fitting is screwed into a block or something and I can grip it better.  Even then, it helps enormously to heat it up a bit.  So I assume for a few days I'd be OK?
And the 750 pump is sufficient for a single block and two radiators, right?

I saw this thread earlier--would it be worth my while to bleach all of the components of the loop as well?  I'm not sure that I can get those tiny rocks, but bleach I'm sure is at the grocery store.

And how do I avoid this happening again?  I'm not exactly thrilled with this, surprisingly enough


----------



## sneekypeet (May 3, 2013)

the stock tubing is very loose on the fittings, so it should easily come off. Since you are going to a smaller tubing anyways, why not get 3/8" tubing, heat and stretch the tubing, and have no need for any clamps at all.

As far as cleaning the loop, I don't know that I would go to bleach, maybe vinegar and baking soda, but I think bleach is a little harsh, and if you leave some residue, I have no idea how it will effect the tubing if pumped through it.

The pump is fine for that loop, but not as powerful as say a 655/35x that may blow those hoses off the fittings (and why I mentioned it not being so powerful).

If the rad is green, it was either a chemical reaction to the copper (oxidation) or you had natural light shining on something to grow algae. They do make additives to keep this from happening in the future too.

Also to add, your link shows to me, bits of copper stuck in the pores of the tubing. Every time I have used clear tubing they look like that, and is why I no longer use it.


----------



## [Ion] (May 3, 2013)

sneekypeet said:


> the stock tubing is very loose on the fittings, so it should easily come off. Since you are going to a smaller tubing anyways, why not get 3/8" tubing, heat and stretch the tubing, and have no need for any clamps at all.
> 
> As far as cleaning the loop, I don't know that I would go to bleach, maybe vinegar and baking soda, but I think bleach is a little harsh, and if you leave some residue, I have no idea how it will effect the tubing if pumped through it.
> 
> ...



This is exactly what I have.  The stock tubing didn't _feel_ loose at all.  I'm worried about possibly getting tubing that's too small--I have about 15ft of blue tubing here that I simply cannot force over the barbs.  It just doesn't fit.  It's Feser 3/8" x 1/2".

And the rad wasn't green--just the tubing.


----------



## sneekypeet (May 3, 2013)

[Ion] said:


> This is exactly what I have.  The stock tubing didn't _feel_ loose at all.  I'm worried about possibly getting tubing that's too small--I have about 15ft of blue tubing here that I simply cannot force over the barbs.  It just doesn't fit.  It's Feser 3/8" x 1/2".
> 
> And the rad wasn't green--just the tubing.



Get a microwave safe cup/bowl, heat until it starts to boil. Dunk the end of the tube in the water for 10-20 seconds, then quickly stretch it over the 1/2" barb. It is tougher to do, but gives a slick finished result.

like this:


----------



## [Ion] (May 3, 2013)

sneekypeet said:


> Get a microwave safe cup/bowl, heat until it starts to boil. Dunk the end of the tube in the water for 10-20 seconds, then quickly stretch it over the 1/2" barb. It is tougher to do, but gives a slick finished result.
> 
> like this:
> http://images.tweaktown.com/content...jin_tj11_sst_tj11b_w_tower_chassis_review.jpg



Quite frankly that looks amazing.  The tubing certainly is stretched remarkably tight 

I'll try again tonight to see what I can accomplish.  And this can just be stretched like that by hand?


----------



## sneekypeet (May 3, 2013)

Let me give you the rundown....

Try dunking it and pressing it over, thicker walled tubing is somewhat easier to do this with.
I use thinner walled tubing, and I do have to heat them as usual, but I do also stick a pair of needle-nose pliers about an inch into the hose and open them backwards to help stretch the end. Usually a couple of times to really loosen it up. You do have to be fast though, because once the heat is gone from the tubing, it will be normal sized by then, and you need to start the process over again. 

I also suggest the barbs are in the blocks, rads, whatever, as it gives you much better purchase to push against rather than trying to weasel it over the barb only.

Sometimes it may get tight on the fittings, but you just have to keep working it past the sticky spots until the hose hits the back of the barb. I have thought of using a bit of soap in the water to help it slide, but have always been able to work past it without an additive. (not sure if soap residue will end up in the loop and making bubbles) I have been known to use some good old fashioned spit to help them slide easier though


----------



## [Ion] (May 3, 2013)

sneekypeet said:


> Let me give you the rundown....
> 
> Try dunking it and pressing it over, thicker walled tubing is somewhat easier to do this with.
> I use thinner walled tubing, and I do have to heat them as usual, but I do also stick a pair of needle-nose pliers about an inch into the hose and open them backwards to help stretch the end. Usually a couple of times to really loosen it up. You do have to be fast though, because once the heat is gone from the tubing, it will be normal sized by then, and you need to start the process over again.
> ...



I just tried it with one of the spare barbs that came with the kit, and, yes, it did seem to go on.  It's slow and painful and I burned myself a couple times, but it did work.  I can try using the pliers on my knife to see if that helps any.  And I boiled water on the stove that might work better as well.  Thank you! 

What I'm confused about though--how would I do this once the parts are mounted in the case?  Pushing things together with the reservoir in the drive bays would be the hardest, IMO.  Given that the reservoir/pump has to in through the front of the case and everything else is inside, I can't assemble the loop outside and then install it.


----------



## sneekypeet (May 3, 2013)

[Ion] said:


> I just tried it with one of the spare barbs that came with the kit, and, yes, it did seem to go on.  It's slow and painful and I burned myself a couple times, but it did work.  I can try using the pliers on my knife to see if that helps any.  And I boiled water on the stove that might work better as well.  Thank you!
> 
> What I'm confused about though--how would I do this once the parts are mounted in the case?  Pushing things together with the reservoir in the drive bays would be the hardest, IMO.  Given that the reservoir/pump has to in through the front of the case and everything else is inside, I can't assemble the loop outside and then install it.



I never said it was easy
I just hold the cup closer and soak the short tubes too, and then you just have to contort yourself to be able to press them on.

Edit: misread the loop run part. I have always been able to work the tubing on in pretty much any chassis, it just takes time, lots of measuring and trimming, and the finished product is well worth the time IMHO.


----------



## [Ion] (May 3, 2013)

sneekypeet said:


> I never said it was easy
> I just hold the cup closer and soak the short tubes too, and then you just have to contort yourself to be able to press them on.
> 
> Edit: misread the loop run part. I have always been able to work the tubing on in pretty much any chassis, it just takes time, lots of measuring and trimming, and the finished product is well worth the time IMHO.



Excellent.  I'll see what I can do tonight!  I still need to figure out how to get things clean.  Should I do more boiling?  Or search for bleach?  Or both?  I don't want to have to do things again


----------



## sneekypeet (May 3, 2013)

I would try using boiling water for the rad and just do it a few times. see what happens for free first. If that doesn't work, and you do want to use the bleach, use like a cap of bleach for every gallon of water. This way you should be able to rinse it all out, and if it is algae or something living, it will die and rinse out.

If you are looking to clean the tubing, you are pretty screwed. It is porous,and the bits are near impossible to remove from it. I have tried with various chemicals and a bottle brush with absolutely no success.


----------



## t_ski (May 3, 2013)

If you decide to go with zip ties on the fittings, loop them around a second time before you put them through the clamp end.  The way zip ties work, there's usually a 90-degree angle between the two ends, so the second loop takes the pressure and spreads it out a little more.  That's one thing I've read, but have never done.  I've used worm clamps before and then went to compression fittings.

You might be able to find some vinyl tubing at your local hardware store.  Typically it's thin-wall stuff though.


----------



## [Ion] (May 3, 2013)

I think that if I use the 3/8" tubing I have that I won't need anything to keep it in place--that stuff holds on ferociously well 

And am I OK to just use distilled water + biocide again, or should I use distilled mixed with the Thermaltake coolant from you or something special?


----------



## sneekypeet (May 3, 2013)

I just use distilled and try to be sure to keep the loop out of direct sunshine. If you have to use a biocide, but I tend to stay away from a lot of the pre-mixes.


----------



## [Ion] (May 3, 2013)

sneekypeet said:


> I just use distilled and try to be sure to keep the loop out of direct sunshine. If you have to use a biocide, but I tend to stay away from a lot of the pre-mixes.



Sounds good.  Direct sunshine isn't typically an issue--and I expect it to be less of one when I go home.

Any particular reason you shy away from them?  Price only, or something else?


----------



## sneekypeet (May 4, 2013)

[Ion] said:


> Sounds good.  Direct sunshine isn't typically an issue--and I expect it to be less of one when I go home.
> 
> Any particular reason you shy away from them?  Price only, or something else?



usually they dye everything, build up in the blocks, and ends up more of a maintenance issue, where you can buy colored tubing, get the same effect, and less BS to deal with.


----------



## t_ski (May 4, 2013)

sneekypeet said:


> I just use distilled and try to be sure to keep the loop out of direct sunshine. If you have to use a biocide, but I tend to stay away from a lot of the pre-mixes.



^ This



sneekypeet said:


> usually they dye everything, build up in the blocks, and ends up more of a maintenance issue, where you can buy colored tubing, get the same effect, and less BS to deal with.



sneeky knows his stuff after all the parts he's reviewed


----------



## radrok (May 4, 2013)

I use a clear premixed from aquacomputer, DP ultra, has never given me problems.

I agree that dyes are to stay away from but a clear premixed is better than straight distilled imho, cost excluded.


----------



## NastyHabits (May 4, 2013)

I've always been a fan of fuel injector hose clamps you can get at an auto supply store. They wrap completely around the hose with a solid metal loop.  They're cheap, and you won't have to pay for shipping and wait.







Fuel injector clamp on the left, regular hose clamp on right.


----------



## OneMoar (May 4, 2013)

run strait peroxide though the loop to kill the algae bleach corrodes


----------



## Animalpak (May 4, 2013)

NastyHabits said:


> I've always been a fan of fuel injector hose clamps you can get at an auto supply store. They wrap completely around the hose with a solid metal loop.  They're cheap, and you won't have to pay for shipping and wait.
> 
> http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/fuel/FuelInjectedCJ01/clamp.jpg
> 
> Fuel injector clamp on the left, regular hose clamp on right.



Not the best solution, except that in your case there are high temperatures and pressures as well as meteorological changes which constitute a use of metal clamp like in a car race 24 Hours of LeMans...

But I understand if you like them for aesthetics.


----------



## OneMoar (May 4, 2013)

there actually called band-clamps you don't use rubber line on a fuel injected system


----------



## cdawall (May 4, 2013)

OneMoar said:


> there actually called band-clamps you don't use rubber line on a fuel injected system



Depends how modern I have an FI XJ that begs to differ about rubber lines.


----------



## [Ion] (May 5, 2013)

My loop is up and going again now--all is doing well.  I'll try to get pictures of the new-and-improved system later


----------



## cdawall (May 5, 2013)

[Ion] said:


> My loop is up and going again now--all is doing well.  I'll try to get pictures of the new-and-improved system later



Good I'm glad to hear. Temps improve any?


----------



## OneMoar (May 5, 2013)

cdawall said:


> Depends how modern I have an FI XJ that begs to differ about rubber lines.



steel braided or Kevlar reinforced  Maby iv never seen a FI system with strait rubber and cord lines


----------



## [Ion] (May 5, 2013)

cdawall said:


> Good I'm glad to hear. Temps improve any?



The second radiator seems to have brought temps down about 5-6C.


----------



## cdawall (May 5, 2013)

OneMoar said:


> steel braided or Kevlar reinforced  Maby iv never seen a FI system with strait rubber and cord lines



OE Jeep Cherokee lines on my 94 are straight non synthetic rubber and cord. I know this for a fact as I have replaced the line running to the injectors on mine and about half a dozen others because ethanol rots it outs.



[Ion] said:


> The second radiator seems to have brought temps down about 5-6C.



Not to shabby how far above ambient are you


----------



## [Ion] (May 5, 2013)

cdawall said:


> OE Jeep Cherokee lines on my 94 are straight non synthetic rubber and cord. I know this for a fact as I have replaced the line running to the injectors on mine and about half a dozen others because ethanol rots it outs.
> 
> 
> 
> Not to shabby how far above ambient are you



Upper 60s C on the 3930k @ 4.48/1.368V--ambients ~70F or so.


----------



## cdawall (May 5, 2013)

[Ion] said:


> Upper 60s C on the 3930k @ 4.48/1.368V--ambients ~70F or so.



Still to high for me


----------



## [Ion] (May 5, 2013)

cdawall said:


> Still to high for me



Well, I'd say it's good enough.  I'm going to see if I can pull 4.7GHz or so on it.  With the Xigmatek Gaia it was running nearly at TJmax (~87C) even at 4.2GHz, so I think this is a huge improvement


----------



## cdawall (May 5, 2013)

[Ion] said:


> Well, I'd say it's good enough.  I'm going to see if I can pull 4.7GHz or so on it.  With the Xigmatek Gaia it was running nearly at TJmax (~87C) even at 4.2GHz, so I think this is a huge improvement



I'm spoiled with my AMD stuff 28C load with three gtx 470s in the loop.


----------



## [Ion] (May 5, 2013)

cdawall said:


> I'm spoiled with my AMD stuff 28C load with three gtx 470s in the loop.



Damn, how do you manage that?  My CPU runs warmer than that _idle_.  And that's like 6C above room temperature....


----------



## cdawall (May 5, 2013)

[Ion] said:


> Damn, how do you manage that?  My CPU runs warmer than that _idle_.  And that's like 6C above room temperature....



Two pumps, three radiators (480, 360, 240) with massive fans.


----------



## radrok (May 5, 2013)

You can try to cool an Intel hexa with many rads you want but it'll still be a hot bitch.

I run a Mora3 9x120 + two HTSF4 140x3 and my 3930K hits 70C loaded on latest IBT with AVX 12 threads max memory.

This with two 250ish watts graphics cards in the loop.


----------



## cdawall (May 5, 2013)

radrok said:


> You can try to cool an Intel hexa with many rads you want but it'll still be a hot bitch.
> 
> I run a Mora3 9x120 + two HTSF4 140x3 and my 3930K hits 70C loaded on latest IBT with AVX 12 threads max memory.
> 
> This with two 250ish watts graphics cards in the loop.



Topless Intel chip and 255 cfm fans should accomplish plenty. The do not put out anywhere close to sought wattage to heat a good loop that much.


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## radrok (May 5, 2013)

cdawall said:


> Topless Intel chip and 255 cfm fans should accomplish plenty. The do not put out anywhere close to sought wattage to heat a good loop that much.



I'm afraid you can't delid SB-E as far as I know :| (if you mean that for topless)

Also 255 CFM fans? I could barely bear Gentle Typhoons 1850 RPM. I just had to switch to Noctua fans.


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## HammerON (May 5, 2013)

Glad to see this club resurrected


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## cdawall (May 5, 2013)

radrok said:


> I'm afraid you can't delid SB-E as far as I know :| (if you mean that for topless)
> 
> Also 255 CFM fans? I could barely bear Gentle Typhoons 1850 RPM. I just had to switch to Noctua fans.



Ah I don't keep track of the ability to delid the current Intel ones. That's to bad goes you have to get old school and sand through the lid and solder to get down to bare core. 

I run 255cfm fans with spacers for the highest static pressure possible. Its a toy not my gaming rig so noise isn't an issue. My gaming rig is a bit simpler with a large air cooler and TEC.


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## OneMoar (May 5, 2013)

cdawall said:


> Ah I don't keep track of the ability to delid the current Intel ones. That's to bad goes you have to get old school and sand through the lid and solder to get down to bare core.
> 
> I run 255cfm fans with spacers for the highest static pressure possible. Its a toy not my gaming rig so noise isn't an issue. My gaming rig is a bit simpler with a large air cooler and TEC.



sanding near a exposed core ?
LOLWUT ?


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## cdawall (May 5, 2013)

OneMoar said:


> sanding near a exposed core ?
> LOLWUT ?



Oh yes living on the raged edge. There are a couple threads on XS about it.


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## t_ski (May 5, 2013)

[Ion], my 3970K is running about 51-55C load at stock, with 73F room temps.  Considering the 1GHz+ OC and the higher room temps, that's not bad.


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## [Ion] (May 5, 2013)

t_ski said:


> [Ion], my 3970K is running about 51-55C load at stock, with 73F room temps.  Considering the 1GHz+ OC and the higher room temps, that's not bad.



I'd say that the room temps are pretty much the same for me.  But for the extra OC and voltage involved I'm pretty happy.  You have a more powerful pump and better radiator too, right?

I thought that you had your CPU OCed too...


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## t_ski (May 5, 2013)

Nope, no OC for now.  I have the D5 pump and quad BIX rad.


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## radrok (May 5, 2013)

[Ion] said:


> I'd say that the room temps are pretty much the same for me.  But for the extra OC and voltage involved I'm pretty happy.  You have a more powerful pump and better radiator too, right?
> 
> I thought that you had your CPU OCed too...



I run mine at 5,1Ghz with 1,5v if that helps.


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## [Ion] (May 5, 2013)

radrok said:


> I run mine at 5,1Ghz with 1,5v if that helps.



That seems like an enormous amount of voltage for a 32nm CPU to handle--right?  If I can get 4.7GHz or so on ~1.4V I'll be happy with that.


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## radrok (May 5, 2013)

I use offset voltage so it's going to be at 1.5v only when needed, that'll help.


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## [Ion] (May 6, 2013)

Yes, I know my desk is a disaster, but whatever 









It's not the cleanest setup ever, but it's not bad looking, wicked fast, and not too loud.  I'm going to install the HD7950 at some point, but haven't had time yet.

(yes, I also just posted this in the Your PC ATM thread)


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## m1dg3t (May 7, 2013)

cdawall said:


> Oh yes living on the raged edge.



Have fun!


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## m1dg3t (Aug 14, 2013)

Bump!


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## grunt_408 (Aug 14, 2013)

My rig complete with dust lols.




And my new puppy


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## HammerON (Aug 14, 2013)

Rig needs some cleaning. Cute pup though
Why are you missing a fan on your front rad?


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## grunt_408 (Aug 14, 2013)

HammerON said:


> Why are you missing a fan on your front rad?



It is on the other side of the rad


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## Durvelle27 (Dec 30, 2013)

I'm in


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## t_ski (Dec 30, 2013)

Durvelle27 said:


> I'm in


Prove it


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## Durvelle27 (Dec 30, 2013)

Bam ;P






Its being rentavated right now though









t_ski said:


> Prove it


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## hanumant (Jan 21, 2014)

My personal 4 socket server.
4x AMD Opteron 6380 2.8Ghz, 16Cores (Turbo mode) on Supermicro H8QG6-i
Watercooled
64 cores in total with 180 Ghz

Have fun!


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## Delta6326 (Jan 21, 2014)

Now that is a beast.


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## zzorro (Jun 13, 2014)

my simple dual loop


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## MT Alex (Jun 14, 2014)

Looks super, I guess, from what I can see from that picture you took with a potato.


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## zzorro (Jun 17, 2014)

haha..  potato chip


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## manofthem (Jun 17, 2014)

zzorro said:


> my simple dual loopView attachment 57292



I'd very much like to see a few more _clear_ pictures of this setup


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## zzorro (Jun 17, 2014)

manofthem said:


> I'd very much like to see a few more _clear_ pictures of this setup


sorry sir just take from note3.. hehe 
here we go.. 
http://www.techpowerup.com/gallery/3881.html


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## AphexDreamer (Jun 17, 2014)

Man I get my XSPC EX240 kit on thursday. Can't wait to set it up. Any tips before I install it? As this will be my first WC setup.


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## Durvelle27 (Jun 24, 2014)

New build pics incoming


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