# "Destroying the evidence"



## OnePostWonder (Jun 8, 2012)

So who is correct?

HTG writer Chris Hoffman on Erasing Data

Center for Magnetic Recording Research

I'd like to hear your opinions on securely erasing modern hard drives.  Personally, I'd really love to hear from those of you who have experience using cutting-edge forensic tools.


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## KainXS (Jun 8, 2012)

personally I store my sensitive work data on a different drive and keep it.

and i mean keep it because I would get fired if it got out(got like 4 now over the years). I horde all my pc parts really:shadedshu


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## Norton (Jun 8, 2012)

Best method right here:







No undo button though!


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## KainXS (Jun 8, 2012)

yea i know alot of people who use that method


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## ThE_MaD_ShOt (Jun 8, 2012)

Norton said:


> Best method right here:
> 
> http://img.techpowerup.org/120607/mini sledge.jpg
> 
> No undo button though!



That is one of the best ways to kill data.


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## CaptainFailcon (Jun 8, 2012)

heat more precisely >> fire is the most effective way heat destroys the plating on the platters turning them to dust Rendering the drive 100% completely unrecoverable even by advanced lasers


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## natr0n (Jun 8, 2012)

I use hdtune and some others, anything that writes 0's basically works but only full format.


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## FordGT90Concept (Jun 8, 2012)

Gutmann's algorithm is the best (as in most destructive to data) way to erase data.

I use DoD 5220.22-M algorithm to erase data.  It isn't the best, but most of the data won't be recoverable.

If the drive is not important to me, I usually try to dismantle it (deforming the platters in the process), and putting a magnet directly on the platters.

The absolute best way to destroy data on a hard drive and likely the hard drive too is to use a degausser.  They often cost $3000+ though so not very practical for small outfits.  If you want the best of the best, find a degausser that has the NSA (National Security Agency) seal of approval.  Here's an example of NSA approved device and it runs for over $21,000:  http://www.datadev.com/degausser-sdd-master.html


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## D007 (Jun 8, 2012)

Lol this topic scares me... I don't even wanna know what you need to erase so badly.. XD


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## silkstone (Jun 8, 2012)

D007 said:


> Lol this topic scares me... I don't even wanna know what you need to erase so badly.. XD



If you are running a business, you wouldn't want your competition to get hold of your old disk drives.


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## Aquinus (Jun 8, 2012)

CaptainFailcon said:


> heat more precisely >> fire is the most effective way heat destroys the plating on the platters turning them to dust Rendering the drive 100% completely unrecoverable even by advanced lasers



HDD platters are metalic, I'm pretty sure they don't "burn and turn to dust." Last I checked, heated metals melt not burn. Yeah, melting them will do that, but I'm sure a sledge hammer is the cheaper option. a 7-pass or 32-pass zero-out should work just as well too.


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## Jetster (Jun 8, 2012)

7 pass is the standard for platter drives. I don't think you can erase a SSD drive, at least completely

http://cmrr.ucsd.edu/people/Hughes/SecureErase.shtml


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## Aquinus (Jun 8, 2012)

Jetster said:


> 7 pass is the standard for platter drives. I don't think you can erase a SSD drive, at least completely



I think your right, since the SSD will write to blocks with the least number of writes. However someone who wanted to recover this data would have a hell of a time because SSDs relocate sectors and blocks pretty often to reduce SSD wear on writes to distribute writes out along the entire drive.


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## _JP_ (Jun 8, 2012)

1 - Turn on HDD.
2 - Attach rare-earth magnet to either side, top or bottom.
3 - ???
4 - PROFIT!

PROTIP: Slide the magnet around the HDD for maximum performance!


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## Aquinus (Jun 8, 2012)

_JP_ said:


> 1 - Turn on HDD.
> 2 - Attach rare-earth magnet to either side, top or bottom.
> 3 - ???
> 4 - PROFIT!
> ...



You will destroy the data but you could damage the drive itself or the read/write head if you use a magnet too strong. Also you might not scramble everything if you use a magnet not strong enough. 7-pass format makes for a good test to make sure the drive is reliable as well.


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## _JP_ (Jun 8, 2012)

If the drive is still functional, someone might still try to recover some data off it. I want the data to become non-existent and unobtainable. Even if it means killing the HDD.


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## Raw (Jun 8, 2012)

*use a torch*



_JP_ said:


> If the drive is still functional, someone might still try to recover some data off it. I want the data to become non-existent and unobtainable. Even if it means killing the HDD.



The only sure way I know of is to use a torch. A real torch as in acetylene/oxygen. The  flame burns at about 6,330 °F (3,500 °C). You wind up with a small puddle of metal.
Take the drive cover off and melt the platters, takes all of 5 seconds, gone forever.


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## Jetster (Jun 8, 2012)

Anyone can break a drive. The trick is to looses the data and same the drive


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## qubit (Jun 8, 2012)

I simply hit the delete button and the data is gone...


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## Aquinus (Jun 8, 2012)

qubit said:


> I simply hit the delete button and the data is gone...



Not true. Only the record on the file system is deleted. The data is still there until something else writes over it, unless you're using an SSD with TRIM and/or garbage collection.


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## qubit (Jun 8, 2012)

Aquinus said:


> Not true. Only the record on the file system is deleted. The data is still there until something else writes over it, unless you're using an SSD with TRIM and/or garbage collection.



Gotcha!  I was talking tongue in cheek. Look at my post again...


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## Aquinus (Jun 8, 2012)

qubit said:


> Gotcha!  I was talking tongue in cheek. Look at my post again...



I'm not catching it, but I will take your word for it.


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## pantherx12 (Jun 8, 2012)

I take the platters out and use them as Frisbees in areas with lots of concrete.

One of the funner ways to make sure your data is safe!


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## FreedomEclipse (Jun 8, 2012)

Id do it the american way and use one of these babys...



Spoiler









Unfortunately I will be arrested and charged with illegal use of firearms and posession of a firearm once the police hear the shot as civilians arent allowed to carry firearms here


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## caleb (Jun 8, 2012)

Magnets do wonders do HDDs


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## FordGT90Concept (Jun 8, 2012)

Aquinus said:


> You will destroy the data but you could damage the drive itself or the read/write head if you use a magnet too strong. Also you might not scramble everything if you use a magnet not strong enough. 7-pass format makes for a good test to make sure the drive is reliable as well.


It's not the read/write head that's the problem, it's the timing data drives have written to the platter at the factory that can't be rewritten.  If you can't rewrite it, the software in the hard drive has no way to tell the head's location relative to the rest of the platter.  Even though the platter drive is physically fine, it can't function without that data.


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## RejZoR (Jun 8, 2012)

Raw sector access multipass DoD class overwriting. From first to last bit of the magnetic drives.
SSD's sort of made the whole deal even easier though you make additional wear to NAND chips when doing such overwriting...


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## Sasqui (Jun 8, 2012)

Buy Seagate drives, they'll self destruct anyway.

Joking...  take the platters out and rub them with sandpaper.


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## lilhasselhoffer (Jun 8, 2012)

1) Always encrypt important data.  Even if someone "recovers" it there isn't anything worth recovering unless 100% of it is correct.
2) Kill files initially as they are deleted.  Spybot has a decent file shredding component, that should act similarly to TRIM on SSDs.
3) Decide whether you want the data destroyed, or a working HDD.  
If your answer to 3 was data destroyed, about one ounce of thermite generates enough heat to degauss, and penetrate the enclosure.  If you still want a working HDD you're locked to either a multi-pass random bit writing program, or parking the head, cracking the case, and manually running a magnet over the platters.


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## qubit (Jun 8, 2012)

Aquinus said:


> I'm not catching it, but I will take your word for it.



Just means I was kidding.


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## TheMailMan78 (Jun 8, 2012)

I wish I had something THAT important to destroy so no one else could get it. Sadly all I have is some family photos, artwork and some game saves. I'm not stupid enough to save anything THAT important on a computer.


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## FreedomEclipse (Jun 8, 2012)

TheMailMan78 said:


> I wish I had something THAT important to destroy so no one else could get it. Sadly all I have is some family photos, artwork and some game saves. I'm not stupid enough to save anything THAT important on a computer.



yeah.... everythings all 'CLOUD' based these days.

why store all your celeb snuff sextapes on your own system when you can upload them to a remote server. that way when the FBI do kick down your door when one of them goes missing. you can deny everything and still watch your porn on the way home on the bus when they release you and return your posessions.

CLOUD is definitely the way to go. but the problem with cloud storage is you never know if the FBI are gonna do a megaupload on it. 

theres no guarantee that your data is always gonna be there. either the company that runs it goes bust, or 'megaupload' happends.

you could upload to different CLOUD sites but the same thing could happen to them too. 

many years back I had quite a few photos of a chick that i was dating uploaded onto a pic hosting site like photo bucket. Well..... 5 or 7 years after we broke up I finally remembered that I had her pics uploaded somewhere and I musta spent more then a week trying to find them and the site that they were uploaded to.

Eventually I found out that the site had just dissapeared completely one day without any warning for those that were registered to it or premium account owners.

every time i link to it, it redirects me to a porn site lol.

I cant remember what the site was called exactly but i had a lot of pics uploaded there including pics of my first attempt at full on PC watercooling back when Asetek were still making their own water cooling kits. 



.....so the moral of the story here kids is.... "you're f**ked if you do, and you're f**ked if you dont" Best thing to do is put all your memories in a small box and have it locked in a bank vault.

Chances of someone pulling off a 'bank heist' of great magnatude only happends in holywood movies. so unless the place burns down or gets bombed by terrorists, your shit is safe as long as its there and your ass aint wanted by the FBI.


And if you be thinking "youre only guilty if you get caught" like my lawyer in training friend always says. then i hope you are faster at running then wesley snipes.


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## TheMailMan78 (Jun 8, 2012)

FreedomEclipse said:


> yeah.... everythings all 'CLOUD' based these days.
> 
> why store all your celeb snuff sextapes on your own system when you can upload them to a remote server. that way when the FBI do kick down your door when one of them goes missing. you can deny everything and still watch your porn on the way home on the bus when they release you and return your posessions.
> 
> ...



Tupperware, Cellophane, Moth balls and a shovel is all I need to secure anything. Banks can be warranted my mind and where I buried anything cannot.


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## FreedomEclipse (Jun 8, 2012)

TheMailMan78 said:


> Tupperware, Cellophane, Moth balls and a shovel is all I need to secure anything. Banks can be warranted my mind and where I buried anything cannot.



your mind can be 'warranted' too - they call it waterboarding


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## TheMailMan78 (Jun 8, 2012)

FreedomEclipse said:


> your mind can be 'warranted' too - they call it waterboarding



lol I'm WAY less concerned about the CIA water boarding me then the FBI trying to warrant a safety deposit box.


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## Zebeon (Jun 8, 2012)

What about full disk encryption or at least encrypted containers (truecrypt) even when uploading to cloud storage, using a 15-20 character complex password?
I have read it is unbreakable and read that it is easily broken?  Any thoughts on this?


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## OnePostWonder (Jun 8, 2012)

All of you have posted interesting methods to destroy data.

I somehow gave some of you the impression of data that I want to destroy, but I do not (currently).  I was curious as to your opinions on the validity of the HTG article, with the icing on the cake being how you destroy (or would destroy) your sensitive data.


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## sneekypeet (Jun 8, 2012)

I have bought used drives from TPU before, and just out of necessity of the drive beginning to fail, I had to run recovery software on a drive that was previously wiped before I received it. When recovering my files off of a 320GB drive that I doubt was ever completely full, the software recovered 420GB of info from the drive. That information was all of my last OS data and looked to include images, tags, and various information from my and the previous six OS installs.

I don't believe there is a way to totally destroy the information on a platter, I also keep my drives or destroy them when I am done using them or if they break along the way.


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## Sasqui (Jun 8, 2012)

FreedomEclipse said:


> CLOUD is definitely the way to go. but the problem with cloud storage is you never know if the FBI are gonna do a megaupload on it.



That's brings up another whole interesting topic.  From what I understand, once you give a third party any of your data, it's fair game for the feds.  Including anything posted here 

Data on your home hard drive takes a warrant for any agency to look at it.


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## RejZoR (Jun 8, 2012)

If it was properly wiped i don't think you've got anything useful. Even doing a single pass random data write will destroy everything. Only requirement is that it is done on sector level. Doing it on file system level might leave data remaining (parts at least).


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## newtekie1 (Jun 8, 2012)

Two wipes, first with random data then with 0's.  If the wanted to get the data back I'm sure it is possible, however the cost to do so and the cost of the equipment would make it pointless.


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## sneekypeet (Jun 8, 2012)

newtekie1 said:


> the cost to do so and the cost of the equipment would make it pointless.



$70 for software that runs on a PC


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## newtekie1 (Jun 8, 2012)

sneekypeet said:


> $70 for software that runs on a PC



You find me some software that can read data from a drive that has been wiped once with random data and again with 0's.


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## sneekypeet (Jun 8, 2012)

iCare Recovery.

The drive I used it on found 7 layers on the drive. Drive was wiped before I got it, I wiped it again, and still when it came down to it I got 420GB of info off a 320GB drive. (drive was also used for my own OS before I used it for a storage only drive)


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## FordGT90Concept (Jun 8, 2012)

sneekypeet said:


> I don't believe there is a way to totally destroy the information on a platter, I also keep my drives or destroy them when I am done using them or if they break along the way.


Degaussing is the only way to permanently erase data off a hard drive.  It sets the magnetism on the drive to one direction.  Mind you, you need a good degausser if you intend to handle parrallel recording drives (old) and perpendicular recording drives (new).  I think perpendicular is harder to degauss so they are more expensive.  Regardless, it is possible and it is what the NSA/CSS requires to do to a hard drive that contains sensitive information before disposing of it.


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## sneekypeet (Jun 8, 2012)

FordGT90Concept said:


> Degaussing is the only way to permanently erase data off a hard drive.  It sets the magnetism on the drive to one direction.  Mind you, you need a good degausser if you intend to handle parrallel recording drives (old) and perpendicular recording drives (new).  I think perpendicular is harder to degauss so they are more expensive.  Regardless, it is possible and it is what the NSA/CSS requires to do to a hard drive that contains sensitive information before disposing of it.



That was more my point. Writing 0's or using software makes it only appear to be gone. If I can use another software to recover what was supposedly destroyed, it obviously isn't. I figured there had to be a way besides a shotgun or a hammer, but most HDD users don't have access to ways to truly remove the data, and again is why I don't sell my hard drives.


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## newtekie1 (Jun 8, 2012)

sneekypeet said:


> iCare Recovery.
> 
> The drive I used it on found 7 layers on the drive. Drive was wiped before I got it, I wiped it again, and still when it came down to it I got 420GB of info off a 320GB drive. (drive was also used for my own OS before I used it for a storage only drive)



Then it wasn't wiped properly, the heads on a hard drive can not physically read data from the disks after the entire surface has been wiped, they aren't sensitive enough.


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## sneekypeet (Jun 8, 2012)

newtekie1 said:


> Then it wasn't wiped properly, the heads on a hard drive can not physically read data from the disks after the entire surface has been wiped, they aren't sensitive enough.



Then we have to agree to disagree. My suggestion is to try it, or wipe a drive and send it to me and I will see if I can pull any information.


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## FordGT90Concept (Jun 8, 2012)

There might be a place in your area that has a degausser that you can use.  It'll probably cost $50+ per drive.

A lot of the places that make degaussers also do other security services.  That NSA document I linked lists a bunch of them.


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## TheMailMan78 (Jun 8, 2012)

FordGT90Concept said:


> There might be a place in your area that has a degausser that you can use.  It'll probably cost $50+ per drive.
> 
> A lot of the places that make degaussers also do other security services.  That NSA document I linked lists a bunch of them.



Or you can just buy a Mac and 35-Pass erase on the HD. To give you an idea how secure that is the DoD only uses a 7-pass for thier 5220-22 M standard.


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## Aquinus (Jun 8, 2012)

TheMailMan78 said:


> Or you can just buy a Mac and 35-Pass erase on the HD. To give you an idea how secure that is the DoD only uses a 7-pass for thier 5220-22 M standard.



You could also `dd` in linux to copy /dev/zero to your drive for 7 or more iterations.


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## FordGT90Concept (Jun 8, 2012)

5220.22-M describes the 3-pass method for erasing:
http://pcsupport.about.com/od/termsd/g/dod-5220-22-M.htm

No software erase method (5220.22-M included) is acceptable for any classified government documents under CSA provisions.  Only degaussing is.

"35-pass" is aka Gutmann algorithm.  It is not acceptable either for classified government documents.


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## TheMailMan78 (Jun 8, 2012)

FordGT90Concept said:


> 5220.22-M describes the 3-pass method for erasing:
> http://pcsupport.about.com/od/termsd/g/dod-5220-22-M.htm
> 
> No software erase method (5220.22-M included) is acceptable for any classified government documents under CSA provisions.  Only degaussing is.
> ...



Its good enough to sell a drive on TPU and damn sure good enough to get past "iCare Recovery".


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## sneekypeet (Jun 8, 2012)

TheMailMan78 said:


> Its good enough to sell a drive on TPU and damn sure good enough to get past "iCare Recovery".



Ever used iCare?


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## TheMailMan78 (Jun 8, 2012)

sneekypeet said:


> Ever used iCare?



No I'm smart enough to make backups.


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## Aquinus (Jun 8, 2012)

TheMailMan78 said:


> No I'm smart enough to make backups.



Pro statement. Nothing like having a full backup to make you feel good about your system. I need to start my backups to my external drive again. RAID is great and all but there is nothing like having a second fallback. Nothing like a single point of failure to ruin your day.


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## swaaye (Jun 8, 2012)

I'd go with the internal secure erase. It will erase some hidden areas, unlike a software solution like DBAN.  Some drives support an enhanced secure erase too.

Or physically destroy the drive.


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## bbmarley (Jun 8, 2012)

ccleaner has a drive wiper with options for 1 ,3 , 7 , 35 passes

very good freeware


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## Aquinus (Jun 8, 2012)

dd has been dubbed "disk destroyer" for a reason. 
Best of all, there are a million flavors of *nix that you can choose from where `dd` will do the same exact thing for free!


```
dd if=/dev/zero of=/dev/sdX bs=1M
```

Just replace 'X' with your drive.


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## qubit (Jun 8, 2012)

sneekypeet said:


> That was more my point. Writing 0's or using software makes it only appear to be gone. If I can use another software to recover what was supposedly destroyed, it obviously isn't. I figured there had to be a way besides a shotgun or a hammer, but most HDD users don't have access to ways to truly remove the data, *and again is why I don't sell my hard drives.*



Thing is you're in an even more precarious position if you send it in for repair. Think about it, the drive dies, so you don't have a chance of wiping it in any way. At the most, you'll have a slightly damaged platter from a head crash, but it could just be a duff motor bearing or logic board, with perfect platters.

The manufacturer fixes the drive and all that lovely data is then available to be read, in the clear. While they probably don't routinely read user's drives, the fact they can is an unsettling thought and would make me think twice before claiming on the warranty, especially if it was one of my data drives.


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## sneekypeet (Jun 8, 2012)

TheMailMan78 said:


> No I'm smart enough to make backups.



so how are you damn sure you can beat it?
I suggest you type about what you know and stop guessing at things

As for being smart enough to do a backup, I assume that is after every piece of art you create? What happens when your drive "dies" tomorrow and your last week or so of work is on that drive. Unless you are backing up every day you smart enough to backup comment is strangely not sufficient.


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## Dippyskoodlez (Jun 9, 2012)

FordGT90Concept said:


> No software erase method (5220.22-M included) is acceptable for any classified government documents under CSA provisions.  Only degaussing is.
> 
> "35-pass" is aka Gutmann algorithm.  It is not acceptable either for classified government documents.





FreedomEclipse said:


> Id do it the american way and use one of these babys...
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Just send it my way, I won't miss. 

We had a large pile of hard drives to dump... EOD was nice enough to include them in a 2000 pounder a few weeks ago.


BOOM! No more datas.


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## TheMailMan78 (Jun 9, 2012)

sneekypeet said:


> so how are you damn sure you can beat it?
> I suggest you type about what you now and stop guessing at things
> 
> As for being smart enough to do a backup, I assume that is after every piece of art you create? What happens when your drive "dies" tomorrow and your last week or so of work is on that drive. Unless you are backing up every day you smart enough to backup comment is strangely not sufficient.



1. Because I have seen drives wiped this way sent to recover companies that got back zero usable data. Companies that specialize in data recovery like data carving. Yet a 70 dollar program can do what they cannot? Ill be sure to write my boss in the morning and let him know about this magical software!

2. I make daily backups of my work. Its good practice if you are a professional. My time is far more valuable then spending a day trying to recover a botched overclock attempt that corrupted my raid or something.


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## Steevo (Jun 9, 2012)

I have a couple magnets out of older hard drives that are extremely powerful. A few spins of the platters under the magnet in close proximity and a windows installation and some test files I put on were gone, and a few changes of orientation and on both sides, I was unable to find recovery software that worked.


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## LAN_deRf_HA (Jun 9, 2012)

sneekypeet said:


> I have bought used drives from TPU before, and just out of necessity of the drive beginning to fail, I had to run recovery software on a drive that was previously wiped before I received it. When recovering my files off of a 320GB drive that I doubt was ever completely full, the software recovered 420GB of info from the drive. That information was all of my last OS data and looked to include images, tags, and various information from my and the previous six OS installs.
> 
> I don't believe there is a way to totally destroy the information on a platter, I also keep my drives or destroy them when I am done using them or if they break along the way.



What you're saying is very bizarre. You'd of thought one of these articles would mention that the hypothetical electron microscope scan is now outdone by the drive heads themselves. Sounds to me like only quick formats were used. Though that only covers half the picture. There should never be more data recovered than the max size of the drive unless the program produced a lot of useless gibberish data. What was the total size of intact files?


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## GSquadron (Jun 9, 2012)

Best way to destroy evidence is to trash your hard drive after you format it.
None will be interested in your data anyway.


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## acerace (Jun 9, 2012)

Dip the HDD with all kind of very flammable liquids, kerosene for example, and watch it burn like the man who found fire.


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## Jetster (Jun 9, 2012)

Cracks me up how some of you are coming up with 100 ways to destroy a drive. Pretty self centered, you really think someone is going to piece a drive back together to get your porn history and some random lame web page code? Really Personally I cant get myself to destroy hardware. Ill keep selling my drives


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## Aquinus (Jun 9, 2012)

Jetster said:


> Cracks me up how some of you are coming up with 100 ways to destroy a drive. Pretty self centered, you really think someone is going to piece a drive back together to get your porn history and some random lame web page code? Really Personally I cant get myself to destroy hardware. Ill keep selling my drives



I think people are more concerned about documents that were on their computer that might have personal information on them. I think most people won't care if someone else know what kind of porn that people whack their junk to.


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## newtekie1 (Jun 11, 2012)

sneekypeet said:


> Then we have to agree to disagree. My suggestion is to try it, or wipe a drive and send it to me and I will see if I can pull any information.



Ok, I tried it, the drive wiped using my method of writing random data once then writting all 0s resulting in iCure not being able to recover a single thing from the drive, as I figured.

So now my suggestion to you is to try it, as it seems you have made some assumptions when doing this yourself.  Use DBAN, do a round of PRNG, then do a round of Quick-Erase, then try iCure.  I bet you won't be able to recover anything.  And just for fun, since you are so sure iCure is able to recover data from a drive wiped in this manner, throw some important files on there that you don't have backed up first.



LAN_deRf_HA said:


> What you're saying is very bizarre. You'd of thought one of these articles would mention that the hypothetical electron microscope scan is now outdone by the drive heads themselves. Sounds to me like only quick formats were used. Though that only covers half the picture. There should never be more data recovered than the max size of the drive unless the program produced a lot of useless gibberish data. What was the total size of intact files?



That is the issue with programs like iCure.  They search the drive for the file headers, and when they find them they report the file as being there.  The file header contains the size the file should be.  So when iCure finds a file header for a 3MB file, it reports that it found a 3MB file.  However, it doesn't actually check to see if the file is actually in tact.  So it can find a file header that says the file is 3MB, but only 4KB of the file might actually be there.  That is why it can "find" more data than the drive can actually hold.  Parts of the drive have been used multiple times, so the old data is gone, but iCure still thinks it is there.

And yes, it definitely sounds like these drives that were "wiped" were really just formatted.  It could have been quick or full, it doesn't really matter though.  Even a full format only touches a small fraction of the data.


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## TheMailMan78 (Jun 11, 2012)

newtekie1 said:


> Ok, I tried it, the drive wiped using my method of writing random data once then writting all 0s resulting in iCure not being able to recover a single thing from the drive, as I figured.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Of course you couldn't find anything. Thats the whole point of wrtting zeros.  But hey some people like to live in bubbles and think a format is a "wipe".


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## CounterZeus (Jun 11, 2012)

When I worked for the Belgian government, I used darik's boot and nuke.


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## eidairaman1 (Jun 11, 2012)

Killdisk


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## scoutingwraith (Jun 12, 2012)

I usually disassemble my hard drive and take out the platters. I used to do it for fun but now i tend to do it if i have documents i dont want to be recovered.


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## FreedomEclipse (Jun 13, 2012)

scoutingwraith said:


> I usually disassemble my hard drive and take out the platters. I used to do it for fun but now i tend to do it if i have documents i dont want to be recovered.



are you that embarrassed about the sex tapes you made?


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## scoutingwraith (Jun 13, 2012)

FreedomEclipse said:


> are you that embarrassed about the sex tapes you made?



Hey shh....xD..thats supposed to be a secret

Nope its just i love the magnets inside the Mechanical Hard Drives that i can use for different things.


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## n-ster (Jun 14, 2012)

Make a dumbbell out of all the platters you have?


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