# My new Platinum psu died after one day of gaming!



## ArkJinx7 (Jan 27, 2021)

I built my own gaming pc last year. After finally getting the monitor for it recently, I
tried to fire it up but I only was able to enjoy one session of gaming, but oh it was so nice!
I was super careful, followed all of the manual instructions and even had my brother help
me along the way with some things. I double, triple and beyond checked all of my connections.
I used pcpartpicker to make sure that all of my parts would be compatible with each other.
My gpu recommended a 600 watt psu, so I got the evga 650 P2, which was one of the
best rated psu's on JonnyGuru.com So what did I do to mess everything up? Or what did
my ups do? (or my psu for that matter!?)

I had a platinum evga P2 650 psu die on me, probably because I accidently overloaded the ups system it was
plugged into. Now I need a new psu for 650 watts that is highly rated to perform well and have a lower
chance of it dying and taking out other hardware with it. Not that I think the evga psu did..I checked my
pc components after it popped and my MB and gpu seemed to be okay. I didn't smell any smoke or see
any burnt marks. I think my ups might of helped save my other pc parts by forcing the psu to shut off before
it could do anything really crazy. My ups by Cyberpower is rated for up to 810 watts. It had a error code after
the psu went out, meaning that it wanted me to unplug an electronic from the ups and then turn it back on.
At first I just thought it went out because it was faulty, which might still be the case as well.

My gaming pc specs are..


Asus tuf gaming wifi plus motherboard
Ryzen 7 3700x
Crucial ballistix elite 16 gig x1 ddr4 3200 cl16
Samsung 970 evo plus 250 gig m.2 2280 nvme ssd
Gigabtye Radoen RX 5700 xt 8 g OC
Lian Li Lancool II-W atx mid-tower
Evga P2 750 watt 80+ platinum atx psu
Asus tuf gaming 1440p VG27AQ 165 Hz Monitor

The day before I was running my new gaming rig just fine and I also had my Dell pc plugged in.
But my evga psu must have overloaded my ups the next day because its inrush current spiked too high
for the ups to handle upon start up. Here's how it all happened..

I was on my old Dell pc, which probably only runs on a couple hundred watts, and after I was finishing
up some work, I leaned over to start up my gaming pc, first forgeting to shutdown my Dell and unplug
it from the ups first, just to be on the safe side to not overload it. I got a loud pop and a brief flash of light
from the case and then my ups starting emitting a loud constant beep with an error code "F02". My
ups is the LX1325gu by Cyberpower. After that I tried to plug back in my gaming psu (evga 650 P2)
and flip the power switch in the back, but every time I did my ups hit me with the same error message.
After a few tries the psu didn't even seem to do anything anymore after I reset my ups. I tested the
psu with a MB 24 pin power tester and the fan didn't spin nor did I see any power light come on.

How can I make sure that my next psu won't do the same thing to my gaming pc, assuming that
all of my other components are okay? I still want to go with another 650 W psu. But I'm trying
to find a good rated one for reliability, performance and safety. They seem kind of hard to find
and there just isn't enough information about the longer term performance of psu's by its actual
users online. I've been reading psu reviews on Amazon and it seems that a lot of users report bad
reviews of their psu dying and taking other pc components with it for most of the psu brands but
not evga as much as the others. This almost makes it seem that the brand evga is more safe and
reliable than say, Corsair or Thermaltake. What do you guys think?

As for where I will plug my new psu, i still prefer to have it plugged into my ups (as long as it
doesn't get overloaded) I tried to look up some info on my ups about its watt power limits
on the battery back up side, which includes AVR. However I couldn't find much of anything
on that. I assume it has the same watt limits on either surge only or surge plus battery
protection outlets. I also thought of getting a good quality surge power strip to maybe
just plug my gaming pc into that. But then I thought what if I only use my ups for just
my gaming psu, the asus monitor and my modem and router? That would only produce up
to 700 watts with a 650 psu. The gaming Asus monitor uses 27 watts, the modem only uses 9
watts and I couldn't find out what my router uses but I'm guessing only like another 9 to 12
watts. There shouldn't be any chance of a ups overload then, right? My ups is rated for 810
watts.


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## jboydgolfer (Jan 27, 2021)

do you experience regular or constant power losses? if not, you shouldnt need a UPS . i have never used one, & i have never had a PSU die. not to say my experience is the rule, but just my experience.
the other likely culprit is human error ,no offense, its just a matter of likelihood.

id read the PSU manufacturers warranty carefully, they may have stipulations if a power bank or UPS is involved in critical failure. it might be something you want to omit when reaching out for RMA.

i wont begin to try & guess why it happened.
good luck


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## Jetster (Jan 27, 2021)

Did you double check it after it sat unplugged for a few hours. It might just be the overload protection


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## oobymach (Jan 27, 2021)

So the ups is giving error but the psu is ok?  My cyberpower ups does the exact opposite of what it's supposed to, when it senses current drop it turns itself off immediately and everything connected to it loses power. Every ups I have used has died on me randomly out of nowhere (3 or 4 apc and the latest was the cyberpower), but I live in an area that gets power outages if the weather is bad so I figure get a ups for the pc, they work ok for a while and do what they're supposed to a few times then one day they don't trigger when the power goes out and refuse to ever again.

Unless you're doing critical tasks just forget the ups and get a good surge protector, in my experience they are a waste of money.


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## ThrashZone (Jan 27, 2021)

Hi,
I have the GX3125U and it's been a pretty good back up system 
It's on my entertainment center which the computer there can't be overclocked it's just a Q9550 system/ t.v./ yamaha receiver/ dvd player so I have no complaints on the unit.

All my psu's are P2 series 850p2 on the q9550 1000p2 on my 10900k system and 1200p2 on my 9940x system.

I'd check the wall outlet and all outlets on the same circuit make sure they are all the wires are tight and also they are grounded properly.
Also see how many other items are on the same circuit and what size bracker you have 10-15-20amp might need to relocate so of them or even the computer it's self or run a new line.


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## Toothless (Jan 27, 2021)

Have you tried an RMA?


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## ArkJinx7 (Jan 28, 2021)

jboydgolfer said:


> do you experience regular or constant power losses? if not, you shouldnt need a UPS . i have never used one, & i have never had a PSU die. not to say my experience is the rule, but just my experience.
> the other likely culprit is human error ,no offense, its just a matter of likelihood.
> 
> id read the PSU manufacturers warranty carefully, they may have stipulations if a power bank or UPS is involved in critical failure. it might be something you want to omit when reaching out for RMA.
> ...


Thanks so much to everyone trying to help me with your helpful comments! That was not really expected.
So yes, at certain random times, I would have my main power just suddenly go out in the neighborhood.
Of course every now and then from the short random thunder storm as well. So I got tired of all of that and
got myself a good ups. I just got used to plugging all of my main important electronics into it. And yes, you
are right. My psu likely died on me because I overloaded it from my ups overloading. I wouldn't of thought
the inrush current could be SO high on the psu to cause a power start up spike but apparently that's what
happened according to my ups. It's rated for only up to 810 watts.



Jetster said:


> Did you double check it after it sat unplugged for a few hours. It might just be the overload protection


No I did not! This might be something to try, thanks! I only tried to run a motherboard power
test with the provided psu power 24 pin tester about 10 minutes after it popped on me and
tripped my ups. Could it be possible that my psu would still work fine after that bad incident?
I believe that the rest of my pc components are okay but I'm not 100% sure yet. Can a regular
power surge protector strip help protect the psu from damaging the rest of my pc components,
similar to what my ups does? If so, I'll just use a power surge strip in the future with my gaming pc.
What type of strip should I get?



oobymach said:


> So the ups is giving error but the psu is ok?  My cyberpower ups does the exact opposite of what it's supposed to, when it senses current drop it turns itself off immediately and everything connected to it loses power. Every ups I have used has died on me randomly out of nowhere (3 or 4 apc and the latest was the cyberpower), but I live in an area that gets power outages if the weather is bad so I figure get a ups for the pc, they work ok for a while and do what they're supposed to a few times then one day they don't trigger when the power goes out and refuse to ever again.
> 
> Unless you're doing critical tasks just forget the ups and get a good surge protector, in my experience they are a waste of money.


The ups gave a battery output short error and told me to unplug something and then restart it. It was too much power
for it to draw from my gaming evga 650 P2 psu. Maybe my psu ws just faulty? However I'm not sure yet if my psu is
okay or not? The fan would not spin at all earlier after 10 minutes of it popping when I tested it away from the rest
of the computer components. But I haven't tried yet since the incident to test it again for normal power opperation.
Hmm, I see. Thank you for your input experience with using ups system, this is very helpful! From what I know about apc
ups products, they aren't as good in quality as cyberpower ones. I've been very happy with my cyberpower ups so far
since I bought it last year. It has already saved my older Dell computer from randomly turning off or restarting due
to a sudden spike in my power or from a thunder storm. I was able to save my work and keep my pc on until the main
power came back on. I also have my ethernet plugged into it for extra added protection.

So for the purpose of what I do on my Dell computer and using with my internet modem and router (monitor included)
my ups is definitely worth it! However when gaming I'm not doing anything very critical (well unless I'm in a good battle
royale match and about to win before the power cuts out) so I wouldn't see myself really needing to be plugged into my
ups. So I will take your advice on that one, thanks!



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I have the GX3125U and it's been a pretty good back up system
> It's on my entertainment center which the computer there can't be overclocked it's just a Q9550 system/ t.v./ yamaha receiver/ dvd player so I have no complaints on the unit.
> 
> ...


A while back we had a electition come in a upgrade most of our outlets to handle more power drawed from them
so they wouldn't trip the power as easily. SInce that upgrade we haven't really had any bad power trips, so I don't
think that would be an issue. Also if the outlet wasn't grounded properly, my ups would alert me of this.
The said outlet that my ups is plugged into "might" have not been one of the outlets that were "upgraded"
because when the electritian was here, I had some stuff in their way, blocking access to a few of my outlets and
I was busy and they just said, whatever and left. I know, probably not a good move. But like I said we haven't
had any bad power trips on any of our outlets since the upgrade. Also I believe that my said wall outlet that the
ups is plugged into is only a 15 amp. Would this be a problem with a 650 watt psu or a 810 watt rated ups?



Toothless said:


> Have you tried an RMA?


Not yet but I did register my psu on evga's site and upload my invoice to help speed up a
possible rma process. Apparently I'd have to pay over 20 in shipping and other possible fees.
I already spent over 100 on this psu, and that was for a good deal brand new unit. I rather not
end up speeding another 30 to 50 bucks just to have them tell me that they won't issue a replacement
or repair. I read though their limited warranty terms and they said they don't do rma's for power
short accidents, which is likely what my case is. So it sounds like there would be a very slim chance
of getting approved for a rma, unless my psu was actually defective and they could determine this
upon inspection. Right now I'm just trying to figure out what was the real cause of my psu dying on
me. From what I gather at this point, it appears to be human error unfortunately. Evga just sent me
a message, lets see what they have to say and if they might be willing to issue me a rma. But I will
also try testing my psu again like suggested to see if it might be working again now. (I'd be so happy!)


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## Jetster (Jan 28, 2021)

A surge protector will protect it from a lighting strike and that's about it. If you house has wiring problems, or your live in a country that has dirty power might be an issue. But try it again. It might have been a short and it triggered the protection. It will reset itself.


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## ArkJinx7 (Jan 28, 2021)

Jetster said:


> A surge protector will protect it from a lighting strike and that's about it. If you house has wiring problems, or your live in a country that has dirty power might be an issue. But try it again. It might have been a short and it triggered the protection. It will reset itself.


Okay thanks. Do you happen to know weather or not a ups or just a surge protector strip can help shut down a
psu before it might damage other important pc hardware like the gpu or motherboard?


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## Jetster (Jan 28, 2021)

Only a UPS can do an auto shutdown in case of power failure


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## Operandi (Jan 28, 2021)

ArkJinx7 said:


> Okay thanks. Do you happen to know weather or not a ups or just a surge protector strip can help shut down a
> psu before it might damage other important pc hardware like the gpu or motherboard?


Only the PSU is going to be able to protect the hardware its connected to if the PSU is the component that failed, nothing before that part of chain can help.  That said a good surge protector will protect your PSU from power spikes and potentially help protect the hardware connected to the PSU.

I don't think any of that really matters for what happened here though.  From the sounds of things either your PSU was simply faulty and something failed internally or something failed within the UPS and most likely took the PSU with it, hopefully the protection in the PSU protected your hardware.  Either way its simply hardware failure and nothing you did was wrong' you certainly didn't overload the UPS with a load like that.

This is a long thread  so maybe I missed it but have you tested the UPS after all this?  If it was the PSU that failed that would certainly account for the error your are getting.  You'll probably need to reset the UPS to clear that error but after that I would test it with by hooking up a lamp or something simple to the battery output and disconnect it from the AC.


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## ArkJinx7 (Jan 28, 2021)

I did a power on test again with my evga psu, still no fan spin or power indication. I'm afraid it's full on dead.
I went ahead afterwards and finished disconnecting all of its power cables still inside my gaming pc
and stored them all back in the psu box. I had a better look at my motherboard input slot, the cpu input
and my gpu and they all look fine. So my pc will probably be ready for the next psu I install later.
This time I won't be connecting the computer to my ups. I'll just use a good power strip. My question
earlier was not if my ups can shut down my psu due to a power surge, I already know that it could
do that. I meant can a ups do any better at safeguarding my pc components from damage than a
simple power surge strip? I ask because I'm afraid of what might happen to my expensive pc components
if my psu goes boom and it's not plugged into the ups. Or am I just thinking about this the wrong way?

I feel like I need to contact my ups's customer service and ask them about it. evga sent me a simple
message earlier encouraging me to submit a rma request for approval. I did a follow up question
asking them if a power short (not indicating that it would be caused by a ups) to the psu could
not be supported by their limited warranty. They will probably say yes, in which case I'm out 115
bucks. I've been seriously considering going with the Seasonic focus 750 px platinum psu, which
is among one of the best rated psu's for performance, reliability and quality. The only possible
red flags on it are the higher than usual 230VAC inrush current spike at 60! EMI spikes and high
capped OCP on the 12V rail and the 5VSb rail. Otherwise it is the one of the highest preforming
psu in its watt class around! There are also a few scary bad reviews for it on Amazon from users saying
that it died on them and took out pc hardware with it. My other strong contender is the rmx 750
gold V2, which has a much better 5VSB rail and a lower controlled inrush current.


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## tabascosauz (Jan 28, 2021)

If you go off Amazon or Newegg reviews, any and every product will have someone claiming it exploded and killed their family. That's why experienced PSU reviewers like aris and oklahomawolf exist, because random online user reviews are about as useful as reading WebMD when you have a cough.

You probably just got a dud. And no, it's extremely unlikely that your UPS did that to your PSU, whether it's from APC, Cyber or Tripp-Lite. And no, if the power in your area is not reliable, a surge protector won't save your data from jack shit. Even in terms of mild surges alone, a surge protector is more a one-off; a decent midrange to high end PSU with AVR will mitigate surges and continue doing so. 

The Focus PX is an excellent line of PSUs. If it's a good price, don't feel bad about picking one up.

The EVGA has a warranty. Stop trying to give them reasons to deny you warranty. Say the PSU died, say you tested all the other parts with something else, leave the rest to them.


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## jboydgolfer (Jan 28, 2021)

ive used seasonic focus+ PSU's for several of my personal builds, theyre rock solid. phanteks makes a great PSU too, so does evga and several other manufacturers. in my experience/opinion, id say lose the ups, theyre like static wrist straps, a device not required for most home users.


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## ArkJinx7 (Jan 28, 2021)

Operandi said:


> Only the PSU is going to be able to protect the hardware its connected to if the PSU is the component that failed, nothing before that part of chain can help.  That said a good surge protector will protect your PSU from power spikes and potentially help protect the hardware connected to the PSU.
> 
> I don't think any of that really matters for what happened here though.  From the sounds of things either your PSU was simply faulty and something failed internally or something failed within the UPS and most likely took the PSU with it, hopefully the protection in the PSU protected your hardware.  Either way its simply hardware failure and nothing you did was wrong' you certainly didn't overload the UPS with a load like that.
> 
> This is a long thread  so maybe I missed it but have you tested the UPS after all this?  If it was the PSU that failed that would certainly account for the error your are getting.  You'll probably need to reset the UPS to clear that error but after that I would test it with by hooking up a lamp or something simple to the battery output and disconnect it from the AC.


Thank you very much for this response! This is the kind of helpful response I was waiting for. So a ups wouldn't
do any better at protecting my other hardware that the psu is connected to, if anything, it would only
over complicant things? I don't think anything failed on my ups. After I reset it and unplugged my psu from
it was working just fine like usual. I have my trusty Dell pc plugged into it right now as I'm typing this message
out. So like you said it must of just been a faulty psu. I wouldn't be surprised if my ups accidently took out
my psu in its automated safety process though. Thankfully I think the safety current protection in the psu
did its job and protected the rest of my pc hardware. It makes me feel better about this whole issue hearing
that I didn't do anything wrong, thank you! I was thinking the very same thing too, it seemed unlikely that
the inrush current from my psu would cause a power spike "that high"! I read a review on my psu and its
rated inrush currents are within normal levels around 30-40 on both V. I did test the psu, twice now. The
second time well after giving it time to reset on its own and still nothing. No need to reset my ups, I
think it has already been reset. And I did the tests connected to another outlet away from the ups.

What do you mean hooking up a lamp? Oh you mean connect the lamp to the psu's AC? That would
void my warranty. But if I end up never sending it off for a rma, I guess I could try this, thanks.
This place is wonderful, so much good advice and helpful tips. I also discovered that Techpowerup
has lots of great psu reviews similar to Tomshardware, which I love.


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## Operandi (Jan 28, 2021)

Depends on the UPS but a good one will do a better job than just a power strip which is only going to protect against surges.  My APC UPS does line correction filtering (probably not the right term) that is always correcting the voltage.  Some UPSs are more simple that just kick into battery when voltage drops below a threshold.  It sounds like yours is also correcting the lien voltage.  Short version; a UPS will help your PSU out in giving it the voltage and power it expects but ultimately if something goes wrong its up the protection in the PSU to protect yoru CPU, GPU, motherboard ect.

Yeah, your PSU is certainly dead but did you test the UPS?  Put something simple on the battery backup section and cut power to it like I asked in my previous post?

Ok, just read your most recent post, so the UPS works.

With the lamp thing.  Just hook a lamp or something similar to the UPS to test its battery output and unplug the UPS from the AC to test it to make sure its good.  It sounds like its fine and I doubt it was the cause but it would be good to make sure and also know that it wasn't damaged when the PSU failed.


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## ArkJinx7 (Jan 28, 2021)

tabascosauz said:


> If you go off Amazon or Newegg reviews, any and every product will have someone claiming it exploded and killed their family. That's why experienced PSU reviewers like aris and oklahomawolf exist, because random online user reviews are about as useful as reading WebMD when you have a cough.
> 
> You probably just got a dud. And no, it's extremely unlikely that your UPS did that to your PSU, whether it's from APC, Cyber or Tripp-Lite. And no, if the power in your area is not reliable, a surge protector won't save your data from jack shit. Even in terms of mild surges alone, a surge protector is more a one-off; a decent midrange to high end PSU with AVR will mitigate surges and continue doing so.
> 
> ...


I love Aris's psu reviews! They have been very helpful in determining which psu I should go with. Also the
psu I already got from reading Oklahomawolf's great reviews was probably one of the best mid range psu's
I could of ever hoped to acquire. Too bad it died so soon. Maybe that's why it was being sold from a ebay
auction? Could of fooled me though, it looked very brand new to me inside the box. Now that you mention AVR.
I'm reminded that I had the psu plugged into the surge plus battery outlet on my ups, which includes AVR
protection. Well the psu already had AVR protection, as part of it's power protection suit. Could this be what
caused my psu to die a miserable brutal death? So I shouldn't even worry about protecting my higher end
psu like perhaps the Seasonic focus PX 750 with even a surge protection power strip? I should just plug it
right into the wall? Okay, I will do that, about the evga rma claim. You're right! Why be fully honest with
a faulty psu with a ten year warranty!? I'm so new to all of this type of stuff.

One more question, should I be concerned about a higher than 50V inrush current coming from the
230VAC? I read here that anything pass 50 is a big concern. I don't want my new Seasonic PX popping
on me at start up and taking out my cpu or motherboard with it in a blazing fire!

Oh okay you meant plug in a lamp into my ups since they draw a lot of power I guess and see
if it trips the ups again. Hmm, I could try that later but I'll have to see if I have a good lamp
to test it with.


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## tabascosauz (Jan 28, 2021)

ArkJinx7 said:


> I love Aris's psu reviews! They have been very helpful in determining which psu I should go with. Also the
> psu I already got from reading Oklahomawolf's great reviews was probably one of the best mid range psu's
> I could of ever hoped to acquire. Too bad it died so soon. Maybe that's why it was being sold from a ebay
> auction? Could of fooled me though, it looked very brand new to me inside the box. Now that you mention AVR.
> ...



It's really not that big a deal......the problem with the PSU reviews is that being as detailed as they are, people love taking little details and taking them out of the overall context. Even the best PSUs I've seen over the years you can find a "problem" if you really wanted to find one, whether it's high inrush, insufficient hold-up time, efficiency at low loads, minor rail regulation not perfect, etc. They make a note of something when they come across it, but if it doesn't even appear as a passing remark in the conclusion section, that shows you exactly how important a problem aris or OW thinks it is...

When it comes to the RMA, be forthcoming and provide only as much info as is necessary to support your case or instill a sense of trust in the other party. Don't try and do their job for them trying to brainstorm ideas - that's what they're paid to do. All you're doing is putting ideas in their heads that they can use as excuses to tell you "sorry, that's not covered by our policy", and possibly pissing them off as a customer that won't stop trying to do their job for them.

I think you read the new Connect 750 review, the one has a whole power backplane connected to it (and even then, inrush was nothing more than a passing remark). The PX 750 review doesn't mention inrush current as a problem. And in the PX review, this should tell you everything about how aris tests things:


```
However, since all of our tests allow us to be extra picky, we did spot a couple of areas where there is room for improvement.
```

RMA the EVGA. If it doesn't succeed for some odd reason, look at the Seasonic.


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## ArkJinx7 (Jan 28, 2021)

I'm pretty sure that my ups battery is good. I just bought it last year. But a test makes good since
to make sure that the battery didn't get damaged by the psu, thank you! But even if my psu did
damage my ups, evga will never pay for any damages. Which pretty much goes for any psu brand.



tabascosauz said:


> It's really not that big a deal......the problem with the PSU reviews is that being as detailed as they are, people love taking little details and taking them out of the overall context. Even the best PSUs I've seen over the years you can find a "problem" if you really wanted to find one, whether it's high inrush, insufficient hold-up time, efficiency at low loads, minor rail regulation not perfect, etc. They make a note of something when they come across it, but if it doesn't even appear as a passing remark in the conclusion section, that shows you exactly how important a problem aris or OW thinks it is...
> 
> When it comes to the RMA, be forthcoming and provide only as much info as is necessary to support your case or instill a sense of trust in the other party. Don't try and do their job for them trying to brainstorm ideas - that's what they're paid to do. All you're doing is putting ideas in their heads that they can use as excuses to tell you "sorry, that's not covered by our policy", and possibly pissing them off as a customer that won't stop trying to do their job for them.
> 
> ...


Well every little detail matters in helping the user pick the right psu for them to me. I know that with any psu
you are always going to have some drawbacks with some advantages. But when a psu fails a important
stress test or a con is mentioned on the front page as a drawback, it's something to consider upon picking
that psu I would think. That is, if the reader has some knowledge and good understanding on how the psu gets
reviewed. So you are saying that a inrush current on the 230VAC of 60 doesn't matter? This was reported on
the Seasonic focus Platinum PX 750 actually.

I know. I guess I sent in a silly question like that to evga customer support earlier when I still thought
the psu failure was a user error. Now I believe it was not. (for the most part) But thanks for the wise
advice.

I already have a fairly good understanding of how Aris does the tests, but I meant that I read on
another tech review site that you don't want anything past 50V for inrush currents. Even in the
PX review Aris mentions the 230VAC inrush current being quite high! Sounds like a concern to me.
Corsair rmx 750 gold is mentioned for having better quality caps to contain a lower controlled
inrush current, yet he still mentions an alarming 900 something watt increase before OCP kicks
in because of how high the 12V and 5Vb5 rails are set. Also not a concern? I'm not sure.
Maybe I should go back and read more on how Aris tests the psus.

I would certainly love to pick up the Seasonic focus PX 750, it has been on my mind since
I first started researching psu's, but the bad Amazon reviews scared me away. So you are
saying that I did my research right and that the Seasonic focus PX 750 would be a great
choice for a mid range gaming setup? Here are my specs again..

Asus tuf gaming wifi plus motherboard
Ryzen 7 3700x
Crucial ballistix elite 16 gig x1 ddr4 3200 cl16
Samsung 970 evo plus 250 gig m.2 2280 nvme ssd
Gigabtye Radoen RX 5700 xt 8 g OC
Lian Li Lancool II-W atx mid-tower
Evga P2 750 watt 80+ platinum atx psu
Asus tuf gaming 1440p VG27AQ 165 Hz Monitor

I like that the focus PX has a quieter fan than the FX focus but on
the stress tests, I noticed that the focus PX only meant with one out of three of
it's rated Platinum efficiency tests, whereas the FX focus gold did better on 
it's efficiency tests. Almost making the Focus gold sound more promising but I love 
the high rated overall Platinum performance results with the PX focus, gaining 1st
place in several test areas of it's watt class. Is 16.3 good ripple for a platinum line
psu though? I already love this psu and I don't even own it yet. 

I'm a little worried about buying a psu from Amazon though because a lot of reviewers on
pretty much every single electronic product, no matter what it is have crazy reports
of them being sent the wrong part, a used product when it was listed as new, tampered
with or DOA products, damaged product packages and so on. That's why I made the
attempt to go to Microcenter to get all of my computer parts to build my gaming pc,
except for the psu, which I had shipped to me from ebay. I was worried the whole time
that something would happen to the psu because I didn't get it at a electronics store, and
well..you know what happened afterwards. Just my luck. Anyway, this time since I can't
get a ride back to Microcenter and I don't like Best buy, I'm considering taking a big
leap of faith and getting my psu from Amazon, including the 4 year protection plan,
bringing my new psu to a whopping 180 usd! deep breathe..


----------



## tabascosauz (Jan 28, 2021)

Yeah every little detail matters......but are you going to pretend you know better than some of the most veteran reviewers out there? If they don't mention it as being a problem in the conclusion of the review, it's not because they've forgotten the results exist.

The PX 750 review doesn't feature anything about inrush current except on the page about inrush current.

A PSU reviewer expresses that he would like to see a bit of improvement in a certain area because if he wasn't in pursuit of perfection, he wouldn't be respected as a PSU reviewer. Good OEMs like Seasonic take this feedback seriously and want to know what they can do better.

"Could improve" from a PSU reviewer isn't "oh man this could blow up my PC"

It's the same shit with everything else these days. A certain overclocker or reviewer puts out data or results that laymen would never even begin to comprehend, and expresses slight dissatisfaction with one detail; all of a sudden every tom dick and harry becomes a PSU expert and starts boycotting the product.

You could just as easily say that your experience with EVGA has been highly negative, and warn others on Amazon to stay away from the P2 750. By all professional indications, the P2 is a solid PSU. That should tell you something about Amazon reviews.

What's up with the protection plan? These PSUs all have decent warranties. Is it so that you don't ever have to wait on an RMA or something?



On the topic of the inrush being "high", my SGX-650 is allegedly only 3-4A lower on 230A (and worse than the PX on 115), yet he doesn't say anything aside from "inrush low"...if he's not bringing it up explicitly in strong terms in the conclusion, just stop worrying yourself sick about it, the worst offenders are close to 100A and they're still not danger territory


----------



## Operandi (Jan 28, 2021)

ArkJinx7 said:


> I love Aris's psu reviews! They have been very helpful in determining which psu I should go with. Also the
> psu I already got from reading Oklahomawolf's great reviews was probably one of the best mid range psu's
> I could of ever hoped to acquire. Too bad it died so soon. Maybe that's why it was being sold from a ebay
> auction? Could of fooled me though, it looked very brand new to me inside the box. Now that you mention AVR.
> ...


AVR is the term I was trying to think of for the UPS.  Thats what the UPS will use to bring the voltage from the AC mains either up for down to 120 which is what NA standard is.  Your PSU dosn't have AVR; it has APFC (active power factor correction) so it will most likely run on anything from 90-240 volts.  None of of this really mattes though and you are really over thinking things; the PSU you had should work fine together, you just had bad luck.

In regards to the lamp on the UPS.  Its not about putting a high load on it as I doubt you have a 600 watt lamp to hook up to, the idea is just to test and make sure the backup section of the UPS isn't damaged from the PSU shorting out.  You say you are using the UPS now but unless you cut the AC from it and let it turn on the battery output you don't really know what kind of condtion its in.


----------



## ArkJinx7 (Jan 28, 2021)

Oh okay, so AVR isn't part of the power current protection suit of the psu? I was thinking of APFC. It's like I
just cursed myself from worrying about things going wrong too much. I put so much thought and care into
building my gaming pc. But I can't account for everything that may go wrong. People say that I overthink
things and worry too much but having bad luck just makes me worry more. On the positive side, it has been really
fun learning so much on psu's in the last few day's. 600 watt lamp, haha! Can you imagine? Yes, you are right, I
need to know if my ups is still in full working order. I'll be testing its battery function soon. Okay so aside from
inrush current concerns, do you think that 16.3 is good ripple for a platinum line 750 watt psu? As I understand it,
low ripple is very important towards the longevity of the psu. Gold psu's like the Corsair rmx only have 10! For the
most part, I'm loving the test results of the PX focus 750!



tabascosauz said:


> Yeah every little detail matters......but are you going to pretend you know better than some of the most veteran reviewers out there? If they don't mention it as being a problem in the conclusion of the review, it's not because they've forgotten the results exist.
> 
> The PX 750 review doesn't feature anything about inrush current except on the page about inrush current.
> 
> ...


Not by any chance! Sorry if I sounded like I know better on psu's. I'm just here to learn. Oh yeah, the P2 is top of the line!
That's why I got it for my gaming build! It matches very closely with the corsair rmx and Seasonic PX line specs! OW nearly
gave it a perfect rating! I know that I can trust Amazon reviews more so from actual pc builders and professionals that make a living
building pc's and not so much from trial and error basic pc users that may not know what they are doing. Could you say that is a fair
assessment? But I know what you are saying, when reading your average negative Amazon review, take what is said with a grain
of salt. Its just..why do they have to put the worse reviews on the top of the page? The protection plan covers a full replacement,
repair and 24/h tech support, no questions asked, even if you murder your own psu on accident. Whereas a standard warranty only
covers the usual defective proven product, not harmed by its user, so limited as evga puts it indeed.

Wow, I had no idea that 100 is the real offenders for high inrush currents! I thought that 80 was bad! Is it possible that the higher
the inrush current, the more power could be sent to possibly damage your pc hardware if the OCP failed to kick in because of
being faulty or being set too high? I do get that OCP gets set higher for better hold up times, which is important as well.
I just want to get my Seasonic PX 750 and have a great gaming experience without having to worry about losing my whole setup.
My brother thought that I should just get a bronze rated evga or corsair and call it a day and not overthink it, but the bronze rated
evga's are really bad on ripple and main corsair gold I was considering doesn't even have a fan tester, which was mentioned in
conclusion of the review possibly causing the caps to melt from the psu being placed upside down, which is how the psu
is usually recommended to be placed in the pc case. (if there is a vent on the bottom, which my case has.) That's how I
had my evga P2 psu placed in my case.

In my massive research of psus in the last couple of day's, it has waved on me on how much things can go wrong with their
operation and at this point, I don't really trust any of them. It seems like whenever you buy a prebuilt OEM pc, the psu lasts
forever, well at least with my experience with Dell. But I will try to calm down, close my eyes and just pick a good one
and bite the bullet. Thanks for the advice! I really needed it!


----------



## tabascosauz (Jan 28, 2021)

ArkJinx7 said:


> Its just..why do they have to put the worse reviews on the top of the page? The protection plan covers a full replacement,
> repair and 24/h tech support, no questions asked, even if you murder your own psu on accident. Whereas a standard warranty only
> covers the usual defective proven product, not harmed by its user, so limited as evga puts it indeed.
> 
> ...



Heh, no idea, you'd have to ask Amazon. Doesn't help that Amazon promotes "frequent reviewers" who usually are talking out of their ass.

I think you're confusing current into the PSU and current out of the PSU. Inrush current generally seems to be more a problem for the breaker in your house (if it's too sensitive and trips all the time). It's not what comes out the other end. But with 50-60A inrush max I wouldn't sweat it honestly. For the health of your actual hardware you'd be looking more at volt regulation, transient and ripple.

Wasn't my intention to belittle you. Just trying to make a point that these reviewers have seen a lot over the years so if they see fit to overlook a minor flaw, probably makes sense to trust their judgment unless there are major concerns regarding their objectivity.

I'm prone to streaks of extremely bad luck and constantly overthinking things. At some point you just have to calm down, accept that some things are out of your controls, accept that shit happens to the best of us and the best of products, and trust the professionals. Worst comes to worst, make use of the warranty service. Hell, it could be worse. You could be behind the wheel of a F-150 with a knocking and oil burning motor, death wobble, and a shuddering trans, with no recourse under warranty. 

Dell PSUs can be pretty good because they like using Delta as an OEM (iirc). They can just be a little low on rated wattage, especially on the 12V rail. HP, on the other hand...


----------



## ArkJinx7 (Jan 28, 2021)

tabascosauz said:


> Heh, no idea, you'd have to ask Amazon. Doesn't help that Amazon promotes "frequent reviewers" who usually are talking out of their ass.
> 
> I think you're confusing current into the PSU and current out of the PSU. Inrush current generally seems to be more a problem for the breaker in your house (if it's too sensitive and trips all the time). But with 50-60A inrush max I wouldn't sweat it honestly. For the health of your actual hardware you'd be looking more at volt regulation, transient and ripple.
> 
> ...


Okay, thank you so much! I will mainly be focusing on volt regulation, transient and ripple then! My main concern is to
protect my gaming hardware. There is a minor issue with transient on the 3.3v minor rail, should I be concerned? Listed as a major
con to the Seasonic focus PX 750. Well the 3.3V rail is just listed as average response. Or are the minor rails not as concerning
in transient response as the main 12v and 5V5b rails are? Also, what is your take on in-cable capacitors? A lot of pros and
users alike hate them, but they help offer better ripple control. And is EMI spikes ever a concern for a psu? For some reason
the PX focus 750 has them in spades.

Thanks! It's just that I've been waiting over a year and a half to use my gaming pc since I finally got my monitor recently and now this
happens and delays me even longer. I'm tired of waiting to game. The one day of gaming I experienced was one of the best
moments of my life. For Dell psu's, that makes sense why they last so long!


----------



## tabascosauz (Jan 28, 2021)

ArkJinx7 said:


> Okay, thank you so much! I will mainly be focusing on volt regulation, transient and ripple then! My main concern is to
> protect my gaming hardware. There is a minor issue with transient on the 3.3v minor rail, should I be concerned? Listed as a major
> con to the Seasonic focus PX 750. Well the 3.3V rail is just listed as average response. Or are the minor rails not as concerning
> in transient response as the main 12v and 5V5b rails are? Also, what is your take on in-cable capacitors? A lot of pros and
> ...



Transient on the 3.3V I don't think actually affects much. All your major power draw components are coming off other rails.

3.3V nowadays iirc just powers the memory primarily, and the "other shit" category (think additional controllers the vendor wants on the board). Some of the VRM components can be powered by 3.3V depending on component choice (some power vendors will make 2 versions of the same DrMOS for 3.3V and 5V), but I'm pretty sure the 3.3V is just used to start the VRM, not to power the CPU. And transient response is pretty far down the DDR4 list of priorities I think.

I'm not a fan of the in-cable caps because Seasonic's cables are already stiff as hell but I've never run with them anyways because I use Cablemod on both my rigs. It's not a difference that you'll ever be able to notice when using your PC, only a consideration for Seasonic so they can advertise perfect performance, and for reviewers to take points off for not-absolutely-perfect ripple performance. If it was a cheap PSU where they used in-cable caps to band-aid shitty electrical performance I can understand the concern, but Seasonic Focus and PRIME aren't that type of PSU.

EMI seems to be a pet peeve of aris', seems like he has some fancy equipment to measure it. Can't tell you much about it.


----------



## rtwjunkie (Jan 28, 2021)

ArkJinx7 said:


> I built my own gaming pc last year. After finally getting the monitor for it recently, I
> tried to fire it up but I only was able to enjoy one session of gaming, but oh it was so nice!
> I was super careful, followed all of the manual instructions and even had my brother help
> me along the way with some things. I double, triple and beyond checked all of my connections.
> ...


One thing I did notice is your UPS is Simulated Sine Wave. Specifically, for sensitive electronics, a Pure Sine Wave output is recommended. Cyberpower’s variant that is about the same Wattage output is about $100 more. The description on your model also states it is cost effective for those that don’t require Sine Wave output.  

That in itself shouldn’t have killed your PSU (it may have just been a bad PSU- it happens), but it is certainly is something I would consider changing if I were you and you still want a UPS.  It does some real good with Automatic Voltage Regulation, as well as surge protection, brownout support, and immediate battery backup for power loss, allowing safe shutdown and saving of work.


----------



## ArkJinx7 (Jan 29, 2021)

tabascosauz said:


> Transient on the 3.3V I don't think actually affects much. All your major power draw components are coming off other rails.
> 
> 3.3V nowadays iirc just powers the memory primarily, and the "other shit" category (think additional controllers the vendor wants on the board). Some of the VRM components can be powered by 3.3V depending on component choice (some power vendors will make 2 versions of the same DrMOS for 3.3V and 5V), but I'm pretty sure the 3.3V is just used to start the VRM, not to power the CPU. And transient response is pretty far down the DDR4 list of priorities I think.
> 
> ...


Thank you for that helpful info! Just out of curiousty, since I hear that with most psu's the cable are hard to work with
and very stiff, what were some of the best psu's for their provided cables? I read that Fractal designs cables are very
easy to work with and their psu's are all about high performance.



rtwjunkie said:


> One thing I did notice is your UPS is Simulated Sine Wave. Specifically, for sensitive electronics, a Pure Sine Wave output is recommended. Cyberpower’s variant that is about the same Wattage output is about $100 more. The description on your model also states it is cost effective for those that don’t require Sine Wave output.
> 
> That in itself shouldn’t have killed your PSU (it may have just been a bad PSU- it happens), but it is certainly is something I would consider changing if I were you and you still want a UPS.  It does some real good with Automatic Voltage Regulation, as well as surge protection, brownout support, and immediate battery backup for power loss, allowing safe shutdown and saving of work.


So you mean that the ups with the pure sine wave output would play nicer with a high wattage psu? My ups already does
all of those things listed, except for maybe brownouts? Thanks for the suggestion. I don't think I'm going to ever use
my ups with a higher end psu again. I will get a power surge protection strip though.


----------



## tabascosauz (Jan 29, 2021)

ArkJinx7 said:


> Thank you for that helpful info! Just out of curiousty, since I hear that with most psu's the cable are hard to work with
> and very stiff, what were some of the best psu's for their provided cables? I read that Fractal designs cables are very
> easy to work with and their psu's are all about high performance.
> 
> ...



All the companies vary as to the softness of their cables but Fractal is the only one that stands apart from the rest I think with their Ultraflex stuff. Nothing really compares to sleeved custom cables though, except maybe Fractal. Just take your time, massage and coax them the way you want them to go, and be mindful of where the caps are if they have in-cable caps.

Real sinewave is _theoretically _better for compatibility because whether a PSU will have problems with simulated/stepped wave is not very clear-cut. Active PFC PSUs (actually I think most decent quality, modern PSUs are active PFC) _theoretically _can have problems and shut off when a simulated/stepped wave UPS is on battery. Some people have problems, some don't, it's hard to say. Only one way to find out.

I have a APC BR1500MS, although it is a bit more expensive along with the Cyberpower CP1500PFCLCD both are true sinewave. No problems with any of my PSUs.

Also keep in mind that the number rating on UPSes is not the load wattage rating. The actual watts rating is much lower. Mine is rated for 1500VA but that's really just 900W output on battery load. A 900VA unit would be around 560W output. Is yours the CP900AVR? I can see a 810W Cyberpower unit, but it's pure sinewave and a 1325VA unit.

Scratch that, I see that you have the LX1325GU. Should be easy to unplug the UPS just to test if battery backup causes the PC to shut down.


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## bikemanI7 (Jan 29, 2021)

I Use a UPS with mine, i have for years,  come to think of it, i never tested it manually with my newer Gaming System how it handles a power outage at all.     Thankfully i never had a PSU die as yet, guess i'm lucky myself,  just had my old UPS die itself and PC wouldn't turn on in late 2018,  purchased a APC Backup Plus 1350 after that, 810 watt, probably more than i need, but should last me a while.     Power outages less at new residence though, so doesn't cycle to battery much at all, except a Self test now and then


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## Operandi (Jan 29, 2021)

ArkJinx7 said:


> Okay, thank you so much! I will mainly be focusing on volt regulation, transient and ripple then! My main concern is to
> protect my gaming hardware. There is a minor issue with transient on the 3.3v minor rail, should I be concerned? Listed as a major
> con to the Seasonic focus PX 750. Well the 3.3V rail is just listed as average response. Or are the minor rails not as concerning
> in transient response as the main 12v and 5V5b rails are? Also, what is your take on in-cable capacitors? A lot of pros and
> ...


LOL, F dude, you really do over think shit.

The PSUs you had that died was very good unit, you just got a bad one, all of of the ones you are looking at for replacements are for all intents and purposes equally very good as well.  One might have slightly better voltage regulation and another better ripple control but really they are distinctions with no real world difference.

The unit in your OEM Dell by comparison is junk.  Like everything in a OEM PC its built to a price point, just enough performance to meet governmental regulations, and whichever OEM is lowest bidder that has enough manufacturing quality to not cause a bunch of warranty returns.  Another thing to keep in mind is the cheap OEM PSU is a lot simpler with fewer components and less to go wrong in comparison to a high-end Seasonic or Corsair.  Think of if like a loaded 911 vs. base level Camry, both have very high build quality and can be very reliable but the 911 just has more that can go wrong.  The good news there is usually when it comes to stuff braking in cars it happens in the first year, with PC hardware the first few weeks.



> So you mean that the ups with the pure sine wave output would play nicer with a high wattage psu? My ups already does
> all of those things listed, except for maybe brownouts? Thanks for the suggestion. I don't think I'm going to ever use
> my ups with a higher end psu again. I will get a power surge protection strip though.


No, just use your UPS if you have it and its still good.  The UPS had nothing to do with your PSU dieing and is already going to offer more protection than most/any surge protector.


----------



## rtwjunkie (Jan 29, 2021)

ArkJinx7 said:


> So you mean that the ups with the pure sine wave output would play nicer with a high wattage psu? My ups already does
> all of those things listed, except for maybe brownouts? Thanks for the suggestion. I don't think I'm going to ever use
> my ups with a higher end psu again. I will get a power surge protection strip though


No, I said I doubt it hurt your PSU. You are better off with one than without one. All I was pointing out is that in the long run for the protection of the rest of your parts, think about taking the step up, and use that one for less sensitive electronics.


----------



## ArkJinx7 (Jan 29, 2021)

tabascosauz said:


> All the companies vary as to the softness of their cables but Fractal is the only one that stands apart from the rest I think with their Ultraflex stuff. Nothing really compares to sleeved custom cables though, except maybe Fractal. Just take your time, massage and coax them the way you want them to go, and be mindful of where the caps are if they have in-cable caps.
> 
> Real sinewave is _theoretically _better for compatibility because whether a PSU will have problems with simulated/stepped wave is not very clear-cut. Active PFC PSUs (actually I think most decent quality, modern PSUs are active PFC) _theoretically _can have problems and shut off when a simulated/stepped wave UPS is on battery. Some people have problems, some don't, it's hard to say. Only one way to find out.
> 
> ...


Yeah Fractal is kind of one of a kind psu brand! I love the look of their branding and how they insist on
a readily available Platinum line! What are sleeved custom cables? How can you be sure they are safe
to use with said psu? Psu's always recommend to "only" use their own provided cables. I've never had
in capacitor cables so curious to use them. For my setup, would you recommend a platinum Fractal psu?

Well that explains a lot! Great information here, thank you! I guess then to be on the safe side I shouldn't
use my Lx1325gu ups for higher end electronics that may be more sensitive unless I use a real pure sinewave.
At least not use the "battery area" protection of the ups. Does this mean I'd probably be fine using say the
Seasonic focus PX 750 W on the surge only side of my ups? If I only use that, my Asus monitor and internet
modem and router? estimated at only using a max up to 798 watts. (Asus monitor uses 27 watts, modem 9
and the router don't know, but assume like another 9 or 12 watts.)


----------



## tabascosauz (Jan 29, 2021)

ArkJinx7 said:


> Yeah Fractal is kind of one of a kind psu brand! I love the look of their branding and how they insist on
> a readily available Platinum line! What are sleeved custom cables? How can you be sure they are safe
> to use with said psu? Psu's always recommend to "only" use their own provided cables. I've never had
> in capacitor cables so curious to use them. For my setup, would you recommend a platinum Fractal psu?
> ...



The Fractal Ion+ line is okay on performance, nothing too special compared to Focus PX. It does have a lower price tag than the competition, a comparable warranty and the Ultraflex cables. Up to you which route you wanna go.

There's a whole world of custom cables out there, whether you buy a kit made by Cablemod to fit a specific PSU line, or go full custom and order each cable to your specifications including the colour scheme, bends, and length from a small vendor like Pslate or Pexon. Stuff gets expensive real fast.

Don't be scared of using your existing UPS - putting your computer on the Surge Only side would defeat the purpose of having a UPS...lol. If you've had multiple outages already and the battery has been kicking in with no ill effects to your computer, then obviously your PSU doesn't have a compatibility problem with the UPS. Just saying that moving forward, pure sinewave does present less potential compatibility issues with Active PFC PSUs but it costs more for pretty much the same electrical performance and capacity, so again it's completely up to you. If it ain't broke don't fix it

800W of actual usage is a lot. What do you have plugged into the UPS?? I have a 3700X with a hell of a lot of drives internal and external, and a 2060 Super and if I'm gaming I'd have to push it to see even 325W total draw on the UPS. If you're actually drawing 800W on the daily, you won't have much battery time in an outage...next to none, actually, since it's rated at like 810W...


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## ArkJinx7 (Jan 29, 2021)

Operandi said:


> LOL, F dude, you really do over think shit.
> 
> The PSUs you had that died was very good unit, you just got a bad one, all of of the ones you are looking at for replacements are for all intents and purposes equally very good as well.  One might have slightly better voltage regulation and another better ripple control but really they are distinctions with no real world difference.
> 
> ...


That makes sense to me why a more simplistic psu with less that can go wrong with it will last longer than a more complicated
one that may only last one week or even one day, like in my case. I would "prefer" to use my ups with my new psu, at least
on the surge only side, but how can I be sure aside from a battery only test that it won't kill another psu of mine? I suspect
it did because after the psu shut off the ups flared up with a error code "Fo2". Battery output short, please unplug at least
one electronic from the ups and turn it back on) I really did suspect as well that "my ups is going to offer more protection
than just a power surge stripe" but then you guys were telling me that I don't need it unless my area has frequent power
drops and that the ups isn't going to be able to protect my other pc hardware that the psu is connected to any better
than the psu itself. I'm still not sure weather I fully believe that or not. So to use my ups with my gaming setup or not?

1) What is the best way to protect my other pc hardware?
2) Is the ups overkill for surge only usage or not?
3) Can a 750 watt psu actually trip a surge only protection ups if it is not over
the rated watts limit? My 650 evga P2 apparently was.
At that time I had my evga 650 about to start up with my asus monitor, along
with my internet modem and router, as well as my old Dell pc I bought at
Microcenter back in 2014. I have the inspirition 660. However my modem
and router were only plugged into the surge only side.



rtwjunkie said:


> No, I said I doubt it hurt your PSU. You are better off with one than without one. All I was pointing out is that in the long run for the protection of the rest of your parts, think about taking the step up, and use that one for less sensitive electronics.


Okay, I will do that, thank you! So does the non pure sinewave ups also possibly have issues on the surge only side?
Or is this truly just a battery protection issue for more sensitive electronics?



tabascosauz said:


> The Fractal Ion+ line is okay on performance, nothing too special compared to Focus PX. It does have a lower price tag than the competition, a comparable warranty and the Ultraflex cables. Up to you which route you wanna go.
> 
> There's a whole world of custom cables out there, whether you buy a kit made by Cablemod to fit a specific PSU line, or go full custom and order each cable to your specifications including the colour scheme, bends, and length from a small vendor like Pslate or Pexon. Stuff gets expensive real fast.
> 
> ...


Yeah compared to the higher tier psu of the Seasonic focus PX, Fractal design is only average on performance. Wow, I had
no idea of the big custom cables world! I just had a image of walking into a fancy mall that has a small store that sells nothing
but custom cable brands with creative designs of cables in different colors and lengths hanging from the walls. I'll definitely
be checking this out later, especially if I find it hard to use the provided cables with my psu. That's cool, I also have the 3700x!
I don't know but I'm thinking that 650 watt psu was a bit to high for the ups rated for 810 if I'm using anything more than
just my psu and gaming monitor. However the 750 watt I was looking at might be too much for just the gaming setup!

But I have decided to just use my ups for just my older pc's and other small electronics like my internet modem. I loved
the idea of being able to game even if I had a power shut off but that's not anything critical for activity. I'll probably be
getting another ups later that can handle even more watts and one that is pure sinewave, which then I might try with
my gaming setup but for now I'll just use a power strip. Thank you guys so much for your help!

I decided to finally go ahead and order the Seasonic focus PX 750. Thank you all for the helpful guidance along
the way! I'm really looking forward to using it with my gaming build, it should be here by next Monday. I got
the 4 year protection plan with it, which will provide better product support with hassle free replacements or
a product refund to buy another if anything goes wrong. I figured that the 20-30 in shipping that I'd pay just
to receive a replacement or repair from the limited warranty would already pay for itself. Seasonic has noted
that sometimes motherboards or even the bios can give false voltage readings to the psu and cause the psu
to turn off to protect itself and the other hardware its plugged into. Also Asus motherboards, which is what I
have can sometimes have issues with pc restarts. Lets hope that mine won't. I like how Seasonic psu's are
designed to shutdown if they detect any improper voltage that could damage hardware. I feel pretty safe going
with this awesome product despite the few negative Amazon reviews. If you click on just 5 star reviews, there are
so many of them and one user said that his Seasonic was on 24/7 and powered high end gpu and cpu and many
hhd's for over 7 years and has never had a problem with it! Now that is impressive! I love it's voltage regulation! It 
is the highest no doubt in its class! 140 seems like a good deal!


----------



## Caring1 (Jan 30, 2021)

Wow, use a power strip for the old computers and plug your main system and router/ modem into the UPS.
You're going to be doing it backwards.


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## maxfly (Jan 30, 2021)

The dude that told you not to use your ups and to plug the psu into the wall was/is giving you bad advice. Full stop. End of story.

Absolutely use your pc connected to your ups with battery back up, thats what its intended for, to give you time to shut down your computer if there is a power outage. The surge strip portion is for unimportant things like your desk lamp not your computer. 
 The ups had nothing to do with your psu dying. Its there to protect your pc. The error that the ups gave after the psu died was caused by the psu NOT the ups. When you hit the ups power button it simply caused another error because it couldnt communicate with your pc.


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## ThrashZone (Jan 30, 2021)

ArkJinx7 said:


> Thanks so much to everyone trying to help me with your helpful comments! That was not really expected.
> So yes, at certain random times, I would have my main power just suddenly go out in the neighborhood.
> Of course every now and then from the short random thunder storm as well. So I got tired of all of that and
> got myself a good ups. I just got used to plugging all of my main important electronics into it. And yes, you
> ...


Hi,
No 15amp would be fine if not too many other items are also sharing the same circuit like in other rooms with t.v.'s/ lights/.....
So yeah if pc/ printer and stuff like that is all that is sharing this circuit it would be fine.


----------



## ArkJinx7 (Feb 2, 2021)

Hello, I got my new psu but I haven't hooked it up yet. I got a ten outlet power strip with surge protection that
I was gonna use with my new psu. But now some others here are telling me to do what I was originally trying
to do. I thought since my ups (Lx1325gu by Cyberpower) isn't a pure sinewave rated ups it could cause issues
being plugged into a psu? Well in any case, my new psu would be too close to the rated max watts it can use
so I'm probably still just going to use my new power strip, but thanks for the help.

My ups is rated for a max of 810 watts, my new psu is 750 watt, plug my asus gaming monitor uses up to 27
watts and then the modem uses 9 watts. That's too close to call right? And I don't even know what my router
uses for watts, there wasn't any information on it online. It is a Linkey's. And if I ever forgot this and plugged
in another pc it would overload everything.

@maxfly I'm too scared to try plugging in another new expensive psu into my ups, even though I'd really
prefer to do it this way. I'm too worried that I'll kill another one of my psu's. Exactly "how much" extra 
protection do you think my ups with AVR and battery protection would provide than just using my power
strip https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MW1LBLQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
aside from the chance to save work and do a proper shutdown, which wouldn't really be a concern on my
gaming pc? I read that my power strip comes with a full suit of power circuit protection. Isn't the psu's main
job to protect the other pc components that it's plugged into and extra surge protection would only provide
some support to the psu?


----------



## maxfly (Feb 2, 2021)

youve got to read the product information about your ups to understand what it provides. your jumping to conclusions using bad information! your ups already provides what your powerstrip does and much much more at a far higher quality. your thinking about this backwards. the ups didnt cause the psu to die. the psu died on its own. it happens, bad psus are a part of building computers. your computer will never pull the 750watts that your psu is rated for and you will never reach the maximum 810watts that your ups provides with only your pc, monitor and modem. the average gaming rig might pull 500 watts underload INCLUDING periferals but thats stretching it. your ups has software that will tell you how many watts your pulling underload anyhow so you will know exactly how much you are using. read the manual, understand what you have. THEN make an informed decision about what to do.








						LX1325GU
					

A mini-tower UPS with line interactive topology, the CyberPower LX1325GU provides battery backup (using simulated sine wave output) and surge protection for desktop computers, workstations, networking devices, and home entertainment systems.  The LX1325GU uses Automatic Voltage Regulation (AVR)...




					www.cyberpowersystems.com


----------



## ArkJinx7 (Feb 2, 2021)

maxfly said:


> youve got to read the product information about your ups to understand what it provides. your jumping to conclusions using bad information! your ups already provides what your powerstrip does and much much more at a far higher quality. your thinking about this backwards. the ups didnt cause the psu to die. the psu died on its own. it happens, bad psus are a part of building computers. your computer will never pull the 750watts that your psu is rated for and you will never reach the maximum 810watts that your ups provides with only your pc, monitor and modem. the average gaming rig might pull 500 watts underload INCLUDING periferals but thats stretching it. your ups has software that will tell you how many watts your pulling underload anyhow so you will know exactly how much you are using. read the manual, understand what you have. THEN make an informed decision about what to do.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Okay, I will do that, thanks! So I shouldn't be concerned that a high inrush current of 60 on the 240VAC could make
the psu possibly draw close up to its max watt of 750?


----------



## maxfly (Feb 2, 2021)

no your ups will ptotect your psu. it will never reach your rig.


----------



## ArkJinx7 (Feb 2, 2021)

maxfly said:


> no your ups will ptotect your psu. it will never reach your rig.


It is not "pure sinewave" though, which is used for more sensitive electronics like psu's on computers.
You should go back and fully read up on what we were discussing earlier. So as it turns out, my ups
only uses simulated sinewave which may cause issues with my psu. That's why I was just going to use
a power strip. Most people here were in a agreement with me on that. Thanks for your help though!

When my first brand new psu died, it caused a "fo2" error on my ups, meaning a battery output short
error. It was overloaded. I assumed because the battery reached its max output watts but it may of just been
of simulated sinewave issue or just a coincidence with a faulty psu, not sure.


----------



## ThrashZone (Feb 2, 2021)

ArkJinx7 said:


> *It is not "pure sinewave*" though, which is used for more sensitive electronics like psu's on computers.
> You should go back and fully read up on what we were discussing earlier. So as it turns out, my ups
> only uses simulated sinewave which may cause issues with my psu. That's why I was just going to use
> a power strip. Most people here were in a agreement with me on that. Thanks for your help though!


Hi,
I've been using a simulated sine wave for years on my computers it's not a big deal
I have x299 and z490 rigs on the same apc xs1500 which is simulated sine wave.

My entertainment center computer now 13 years old it's always been on a simulated sine way until 4 months ago and still alive and kicking so I wouldn't worry about it.
Only stink is do not use a surge protector on it to get to a outlet just use a real 12 gauge wire extension cord "short as possible" if you need one to get to a wall outlet.

You can connect a power strip to a battery backup it will just drain the battery quicker if connected to the battery side.


----------



## tabascosauz (Feb 2, 2021)

ArkJinx7 said:


> It is not "pure sinewave" though, which is used for more sensitive electronics like psu's on computers.
> You should go back and fully read up on what we were discussing earlier. So as it turns out, my ups
> only uses simulated sinewave which may cause issues with my psu. That's why I was just going to use
> a power strip. Most people here were in a agreement with me on that. Thanks for your help though!
> ...



I said a simulated sine *can* present compatibility problems. This manifests in the PSU possibly shutting down on its own when the UPS switches to battery power because it doesn't like the UPS's waveform. But you didn't experience compatibility problems, because if your PSU doesn't like your UPS it'll just shut off and start back up normally the next time you turn it on. Your EVGA PSU didn't do this; it simply decided to give up on life.

Inrush current has nothing to do with wattage load.

Your PSUs are rated for 750W maximum continuous output. Your UPS is rated for 810W. Your rig will never draw even 500W with the components you have - it's literally not possible.


----------



## ArkJinx7 (Feb 2, 2021)

tabascosauz said:


> I said a simulated sine *can* present compatibility problems. This manifests in the PSU possibly shutting down on its own when the UPS switches to battery power because it doesn't like the UPS's waveform. But you didn't experience compatibility problems, because if your PSU doesn't like your UPS it'll just shut off and start back up normally the next time you turn it on. Your EVGA PSU didn't do this; it simply decided to give up on life.
> 
> Inrush current has nothing to do with wattage load.
> 
> Your PSUs are rated for 750W maximum continuous output. Your UPS is rated for 810W. Your rig will never draw even 500W with the components you have - it's literally not possible.


Thank you so much for clearing some things up for me here! So it is looking like I have a full supported "green light" to
use my new psu with my 810 watt ups? My brother is still telling me to just use the power strip to not over complicant
things. So does he just have the wrong idea? I'm guessing we both do. The only thing that does not make full
sense to me is the ups having a battery output short error "fo2" and being overloaded after the psu died when you
guys say that there is "no way" that the psu ever drawed on its max watts, which would have been 650 with my evga.


----------



## ThrashZone (Feb 2, 2021)

Hi,
You'd have to ask the battery back up manufacture on the error code.


----------



## maxfly (Feb 2, 2021)

Most likely it was a false positive caused by hitting the power button with the ups connected to a dead psu.


----------



## ArkJinx7 (Feb 2, 2021)

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I've been using a simulated sine wave for years on my computers it's not a big deal
> I have x299 and z490 rigs on the same apc xs1500 which is simulated sine wave.
> 
> ...


So I shouldn't use my new power strip with my new psu? It's rated for over 1800 watts on a 15amp. It
might use a 12 gauge wire, not sure. The ups does "not recommend" at all plugging in a power strip!


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## tabascosauz (Feb 2, 2021)

ArkJinx7 said:


> Thank you so much for clearing some things up for me here! So it is looking like I have a full supported "green light" to
> use my new psu with my 810 watt ups? My brother is still telling me to just use the power strip to not over complicant
> things. So does he just have the wrong idea? I'm guessing we both do. The only thing that does not make full
> sense to me is the ups having a battery output short error "fo2" and being overloaded after the psu died when you
> guys say that there is "no way" that the psu ever drawed on its max watts, which would have been 650 with my evga.



F02 doesn't always mean the same thing. It could very well suggest a problem at the wall, or in the UPS itself.









						APC UPS for Home and Office Forum
					

Schneider Electric support forum for our APC offers including Home Office UPS, Surge Protectors, UTS, software and services and associated products designed to share knowledge, installation, and configuration.




					forums.apc.com
				




If it keeps on reappearing and you can't clear the code, contact Cyberpower. If it's a one-off and doesn't appear again, use the UPS.

Don't plug a power strip into a UPS or vice versa. If you need more length, get individual extension cords for each device/socket. One cord per device rule on a UPS.


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## ArkJinx7 (Feb 2, 2021)

maxfly said:


> Most likely it was a false positive caused by hitting the power button with the ups connected to a dead psu.


Very interesting! It very well might have been! However, this error came on right after the psu died
before I even holded down the power button on the ups to reset it. Even after I did this the ups still
gave up this error code again when I plugged back in my evga psu and flipped its back power switch.



tabascosauz said:


> F02 doesn't always mean the same thing. It could very well suggest a problem at the wall, or in the UPS itself.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I see. Well there should not be any problem with the wall outlet since the ups would send up a error code if
the outlet wasn't properly grounded. And my ups has been working great with everything else. It even worked fine for the first
day I used my evga psu with it. So yeah it was just a one off with that psu. It really didn't like it for some reason. Yeah I
would never plug a power strip into my ups.


----------



## ThrashZone (Feb 2, 2021)

Hi,
I use power strip off my apc for two large power converters on my internet modem and sound bar 
It's no big deal.


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## Caring1 (Feb 3, 2021)

ArkJinx7 said:


> You should go back and fully read up on what we were discussing earlier. So as it turns out, my ups
> only uses simulated sinewave which may cause issues with my psu. That's why I was just going to use
> a power strip. Most people here were in a agreement with me on that. Thanks for your help though!


Good advice, go back and do more reading so you know what you are talking about.
Most people were not in agreement with you, but hey, if you have one way stuck in your head, go ahead and do it and stop asking us for advice.


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## ArkJinx7 (Feb 3, 2021)

There are two concerns according to Jonny Guru on the matter of using your psu through a ups. One, if the hold up
time is not long enough as the psu's hold up time, it can cause issues. Two, some simulated sine waves can potentially
destroy cheaper made caps in psus. Not thinking this is what happened with my platinum evga but just to be on the
safe side I'm not going with my ups this time. It turns out that there is only just enough battery side outlets for one pc,
one monitor and both my modem and my router to fit into so I'll just be using the ups for my old Dell.

@Caring1 sorry, I didn't know how much you've previously read and you came into this thread late. I do need advice here,
anything is welcome to help me make an informed decision. I'm only trying to do the right thing here, the safest route.
Earlier on I wanted to use my ups but people gave me enough good reasons not to use it.

I'm about to register my ups and then submit a support ticket to ask them some things about my ups. This might help
to shed some more light on the matter as well.


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## milewski1015 (Feb 3, 2021)

ArkJinx7 said:


> It is not "pure sinewave" though, which is used for more sensitive electronics like psu's on computers.
> You should go back and fully read up on what we were discussing earlier. So as it turns out, my ups
> only uses simulated sinewave which may cause issues with my psu. That's why I was just going to use
> a power strip. Most people here were in a agreement with me on that. Thanks for your help though!


As @ThrashZone alluded to, a pure sinewave UPS is only necessary if your PSU is picky about what power it's getting. Some PSUs recognize power that isn't pure sinewave as bad power and shut off. 99.99% chance that simulated sine wave isn't going to damage your PSU. Personally I use an APC SMT1000 UPS (outputs pure sine wave) with my PC (got it on a great deal, otherwise I would've opted for something less expensive). UPS's are a step up when compared to a surge protector power strip - that's the whole point. A surge protector is rated for a certain amount of joules - once it has absorbed that amount, it doesn't provide surge protection anymore. UPS's on the other hand offer not only surge protection, but sag protection via AVR, as well as provide battery backup for power outages.

You don't want to ever connect a power strip between your wall and your UPS.  I personally wouldn't plug a power strip into the output side of a UPS either, but @ThrashZone says they do and don't have issues, so your mileage may vary. 



ArkJinx7 said:


> My ups is rated for a max of 810 watts, my new psu is 750 watt, plug my asus gaming monitor uses up to 27
> watts and then the modem uses 9 watts. That's too close to call right? And I don't even know what my router
> uses for watts, there wasn't any information on it online. It is a Linkey's. And if I ever forgot this and plugged
> in another pc it would overload everything.


As others mentioned, your PSU doesn't pull the amount of watts it's rated for from the wall at all times. Even at max CPU and GPU load, your PC won't pull over the 810W your UPS is rated for - won't even pull 500W at max load as @tabascosauz said. 

I think you're overthinking things here. Safest route is plugging your UPS into the wall and your PC into the battery-protected outlets of the UPS. Plug your router and modem in there too so your network stays up during a power outage also.


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## Operandi (Feb 3, 2021)

@ArkJinx7 did you ever test the battery output of the UPS after all this?  That will pretty much answer the question of whether not the  UPS is good or not.

Also the whole sinewave thing isn't really a thing.  Its only a factor when the UPS is running of the battery and then its just less than ideal to what the PSU wants to see on its input side.  If it ran off of that type of power forever yeah it would probably reduce it's life span but thats not what a UPS does.


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## ArkJinx7 (Feb 4, 2021)

This is the message I got today from Cyberpower, it pretty much summed up what I needed to know about my
ups, which some of you already mentioned earlier to me, thank you!

"
Thank you for contacting CyberPower Technical Support.

F02 Error code indicates "Battery Output Short" fault. Try to unplug at least one piece of equipment from
battery outlets and turn the UPS on again. Let me know if it will fix the issue.

Also, your Dell computer is from the one of the major manufacturer like HP or Lenovo.  All computers from
these manufacturers meet Energy Star Standards. This is especially true with regards to Servers. Often, a server
computer will have redundant power supplies.

If the computer is equipped with 80PLUS certified PSU (supports APFC technology for power conversion with high efficiency),
it requires pure sine wave UPS to work properly. Only pure sine wave UPS could be compatible with this kind of PSU.

Bear in mind that Dell specifies using a UPS based on Sine Wave output. "Dell recommends only Universal Power
Supplies (UPS) based on Sine Wave output for APFC PSUs": https://www.dell.com/downloads/global/products/optix/en/optiplex_7010_technical_guidebook.pdf

The model you have is based on Simulated Sine Wave: https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/product/ups/battery-backup/lx1325gu/

Best regards,

Customer Support
CyberPower Systems Inc."

No I haven't needed to run my ups off just battery yet but I'm sure it's fine. @Operandi

So it sounds like any 80 plus psu like my failed evga should only be running on a pure sinewave ups, not
a simulated one like my ups. My new power strip will probably last me a good long while. Today I sent
off my dead evga psu after getting approval for the rma.


----------



## Operandi (Feb 4, 2021)

ArkJinx7 said:


> So it sounds like any 80 plus psu like my failed evga should only be running on a pure sinewave ups, not
> a simulated one like my ups. My new power strip will probably last me a good long while. Today I sent
> off my dead evga psu after getting approval for the rma.


So this is me saying I know more than Cyberpower support but this is wrong.  Not seeing a pure sinewave is going to be harder on the input section of a PSU with APFC but again it only has to run the PSU long enough to perform safe shutdown.  So a matter of minuets across how many times a year your system actually has to use the battery backup?...., completely irreverent I'm sure.  Someone with more EE knowledge can probably explain in better or completely refute what I'm saying....

This is probably something they have to say legally to protect themselves cause yeah technically its not ideal and long term can probably cause harm if you are constantly using the battery but again thats not something that ever really happens in the real world.  Its a trade off...  a UPS is never going to provide as good as power as your mains so do you want to reduce the lifespan of your PSU by 0.25 seconds each time it uses the UPS so you can perform a safe shutdown or nah?  To give you a bit of context I have a 500 something watt Seasonic M12 thats been running 24/7 since they day I've owned it for probably 8 years now and its always been attached to a UPS (digital, non-pure sinewave).


----------



## maxfly (Feb 4, 2021)

Well OP, you started this thread with the very strange preconceived notion that a $20 surgeprotector was somehow superior to a high quality $150 UPS. Despite all of the information that was provided to you, you have somehow maintained and further convinced yourself of that incorrect notion and in the process wasted ALOT of peoples time. Whats aggravating is you know it. Your not stupid or ignorant. Therefor i wonder if you haven't been trolling us all along?
 To those that have followed this thread and are trying to learn something. Please do yourself a HUGE favor and ignore the OPs seriously flawed logic. There doesn't exist a powerstrip that outperforms a quality UPS whether it be pure sine wave or simulated. Cherry picking information wont change that. Personally im checking out, my time is far to valuable to waste- adding the OP to my ignore list.


----------



## ArkJinx7 (Feb 5, 2021)

Operandi said:


> So this is me saying I know more than Cyberpower support but this is wrong.  Not seeing a pure sinewave is going to be harder on the input section of a PSU with APFC but again it only has to run the PSU long enough to perform safe shutdown.  So a matter of minuets across how many times a year your system actually has to use the battery backup?...., completely irreverent I'm sure.  Someone with more EE knowledge can probably explain in better or completely refute what I'm saying....
> 
> This is probably something they have to say legally to protect themselves cause yeah technically its not ideal and long term can probably cause harm if you are constantly using the battery but again thats not something that ever really happens in the real world.  Its a trade off...  a UPS is never going to provide as good as power as your mains so do you want to reduce the lifespan of your PSU by 0.25 seconds each time it uses the UPS so you can perform a safe shutdown or nah?  To give you a bit of context I have a 500 something watt Seasonic M12 thats been running 24/7 since they day I've owned it for probably 8 years now and its always been attached to a UPS (digital, non-pure sinewave).



Interesting, this is the type of information I was looking for earlier regarding how the sinewaves work with the ups and just
how much of a risk it might be to use the battery with surge protection. I got some information regarding this but this is
also really helpful, thank you! So you are saying that simulated sinewave is probably only a concern on battery when the
ups has to let the psu properly shutdown or using the battery constantly for a longer period of time? However a
simulated sinewave ups is going to make the psu's APEC work harder over time? Do you mean a trade off of more solid power
but no battery vs battery with AVR but a slightly less lifespan that noone will ever notice on the psu? That sounds quite impressive 
with your simulated sw ups with your trusty Seasonic! It does help give me better assurance if I were to ever plug my new Seasonic 
psu into my ups later, thank you! However, every pc setup is going to provide different results. What model of your Seasonic M12 
exactly are you using? The II version, a bronze rated one for 550 watts?

Thank you for that helpful detailed response! The more perspectives I can get and good tips help me more to feel confident 
and rest assured. My evga psu dying on me the way it did was a rather dramatic experience. Yes, it could have been way worse
but I don't know where I'd be if it wasn't for everyone's help here! I hear what you are saying and I now have a little better
understanding of how most psu's work with such a power system like a ups. 

I get the legal protection response, but if like you said, the setup is not "ideal" and it could potentially be harmful to
the psu, wouldn't a compatibility issue be represented as a main concern? I mean you say that this kind of thing
is never something to worry about in the real world but I just rather not take any risks. Anyway, I have already
re-arranged my two computers and put my gaming pc close to my new power strip and my old Dell pc close to the
ups to stay plugged into battery. I'm going to be backing up a lot of files so I definitely need the ups for my Dell! So
it will all work out fine as long as my Seasonic psu plays nice by itself. I fit my old monitor, modem and router into the 
battery side and now I only have one battery outlet left. Despite what everyone is saying to me now, I'm just going to 
try out my new psu with my gaming pc with my power strip for now. What's the worst that could go wrong? Certainly no 
worse than another faulty psu going out on its own, right? Or do I seriously need to be knocked upside the head because
I'm going about this all wrong?

This brings me back to what I was after when I first posted here for help. I wanted to know if a ups is really worth it
or not for protection of a new gaming pc? Aside from the given risks, would a psu that already has a built in suit of power
protection really benefit so much more from a ups than regular power strip enough to waive the risks? It sounds like the answer is
no. But I welcome any type of perspectives on this, all very much appreciated! It would make more sense given the info
provided that a psu is going to be more likely to have a issue with the ups sinewave than the ups being able to stop
the psu from harming itself or other hardware it is connected to. This table of one scenario verses another is really
what it is all about to me. That is what the psu itself is supposed to do, correct? Protect itself and its other connected
components on its own? I'm not really interested in just being able to stay powered on through battery on a ups while 
I game, I only wanted better insurance on my gaming hardware and for my psu by using a ups with it. Did I have the right
idea from the beginning to include a ups into the picture and only got scared away because of a failed psu and not knowing
for sure why it went out; or do I have the right idea now to not include the ups with a new gaming build? (given I only wanted
better hardware insurance) This is what I'm still trying to figure out while listening to all opinions given to me and
I'm leaning more on the latter now. I appreciate the help and guidance so much!

I'm going to be hooking up my Seasonic psu very soon but first I'll be testing the motherboard cable with a power tester.
Meanwhile, My dead evga psu is off in transit, I checked the tracking number on it today. I didn't get the insurance with
it as recommended by evga because, well it's an extra 100 bucks!



maxfly said:


> Well OP, you started this thread with the very strange preconceived notion that a $20 surgeprotector was somehow superior to a high quality $150 UPS. Despite all of the information that was provided to you, you have somehow maintained and further convinced yourself of that incorrect notion and in the process wasted ALOT of peoples time. Whats aggravating is you know it. Your not stupid or ignorant. Therefor i wonder if you haven't been trolling us all along?
> To those that have followed this thread and are trying to learn something. Please do yourself a HUGE favor and ignore the OPs seriously flawed logic. There doesn't exist a powerstrip that outperforms a quality UPS whether it be pure sine wave or simulated. Cherry picking information wont change that. Personally im checking out, my time is far to valuable to waste- adding the OP to my ignore list.


Whoa! I never said that I thought a power strip was better protection than a ups. But for my purpose it will do. Plus my power strip cost 30.


----------



## milewski1015 (Feb 5, 2021)

ArkJinx7 said:


> This brings me back to what I was after when I first posted here for help. I wanted to know if a ups is really worth it
> or not for protection of a new gaming pc? Aside from the given risks, would a psu that already has a built in suit of power
> protection really benefit so much more from a ups than regular power strip enough to waive the risks? It sounds like the answer is
> no. But I welcome any type of perspectives on this, all very much appreciated! It would make more sense given the info
> ...


The protections a PSU offers are there so it kills itself before any of your expensive components. The UPS makes it less likely that that sort of scenario where your PSU has to sacrifice itself comes up. A UPS definitely isn't a necessary thing, but provides extra peace of mind (an extra layer of protection if you will) in regard to protecting things like your GPU, CPU, etc. Having the ability to safely shut things down in the event of a power outage thanks to the UPS's battery backup is an added bonus. 

I believe you had the right idea from the get-go and got scared off by a lemon PSU.


----------



## ArkJinx7 (Feb 5, 2021)

milewski1015 said:


> The protections a PSU offers are there so it kills itself before any of your expensive components. The UPS makes it less likely that that sort of scenario where your PSU has to sacrifice itself comes up. A UPS definitely isn't a necessary thing, but provides extra peace of mind (an extra layer of protection if you will) in regard to protecting things like your GPU, CPU, etc. Having the ability to safely shut things down in the event of a power outage thanks to the UPS's battery backup is an added bonus.
> 
> I believe you had the right idea from the get-go and got scared off by a lemon PSU.


Thank you! I will definitely take going back to my ups a major consideration! However, I would like to single out this one
statement here "The UPS makes it less likely that that sort of scenario where your PSU has to sacrifice itself comes up."
How exactly is that so? Can the ups actually stop a psu from destroying itself? I was told earlier that the ups can not stop
a bad psu from damaging your other pc components or itself. It only provides protection from a bad storm and a power
surge. Plus sometimes it's the motherboard that sends out false voltage readings and causes the psu to shutdown to
prevent any damage. So with those other factors at play, could a ups be smart enough to predict and prevent an electronic
failure from a power supply? Perhaps that is what my ups did, killing the psu in the process or making the psu want to
end its life?

I think you might be right about me getting scared off from a bad psu. Now it's hard to trust any other psu's. But if there's
any chance at all that a ups can do what you say it can do, I rather have that extra layer of protection, no doubt.


----------



## milewski1015 (Feb 5, 2021)

ArkJinx7 said:


> Thank you! I will definitely take going back to my ups a major consideration! However, I would like to single out this one
> statement here "The UPS makes it less likely that that sort of scenario where your PSU has to sacrifice itself comes up."
> How exactly is that so? Can the ups actually stop a psu from destroying itself? I was told earlier that the ups can not stop
> a bad psu from damaging your other pc components or itself. It only provides protection from a bad storm and a power
> ...


I don't claim to know the ins and outs of PSUs and UPSs, so take my advice with a grain of salt, but here's how I'm looking at it. At the very least, you're getting surge protection from your UPS, same as you would if you were just using your $20 surge protector. But the UPS provides not only surge protection, but also sag protection and battery backup capabilities as well. If the UPS isn't going to stop your PSU from sacrificing itself, the surge protector isn't going to either.


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## Operandi (Feb 5, 2021)

How much more can really be said about this?, and I'm honestly not sure if we are being trolled or not (it would be a weird one for sure) but I'll give you the benefit of the doubt.  You've been given enough information now that you should be able to make your own decision or carry on the research yourself and come to your own conclusions.

For another bullshit car analogy, think of it as having a spare tire in your trunk (UPS) vs..... not having one I guess (surge protector).  A spare tire is not meant to driven on all the time and will not hold out long term and even if it did would end up wearing out other parts of your car faster does that mean you should never use it?  Same with a UPS, its not meant to power your system indefinitely, just to prevent data loss and corruption from an unsafe shutdown the same way a spare tire is jut there to get you home or the mechanic.


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## ArkJinx7 (Feb 8, 2021)

milewski1015 said:


> I don't claim to know the ins and outs of PSUs and UPSs, so take my advice with a grain of salt, but here's how I'm looking at it. At the very least, you're getting surge protection from your UPS, same as you would if you were just using your $20 surge protector. But the UPS provides not only surge protection, but also sag protection and battery backup capabilities as well. If the UPS isn't going to stop your PSU from sacrificing itself, the surge protector isn't going to either.


Yeah, that's about what I thought, aside from not really knowing what sag protection does. Thank you for your input!



Operandi said:


> How much more can really be said about this?, and I'm honestly not sure if we are being trolled or not (it would be a weird one for sure) but I'll give you the benefit of the doubt.  You've been given enough information now that you should be able to make your own decision or carry on the research yourself and come to your own conclusions.
> 
> For another bullshit car analogy, think of it as having a spare tire in your trunk (UPS) vs..... not having one I guess (surge protector).  A spare tire is not meant to driven on all the time and will not hold out long term and even if it did would end up wearing out other parts of your car faster does that mean you should never use it?  Same with a UPS, its not meant to power your system indefinitely, just to prevent data loss and corruption from an unsafe shutdown the same way a spare tire is jut there to get you home or the mechanic.


Not much more, but every bit of opinion and info here has really helped me a lot! I would never troll anyone, I don't believe in
such behavior. Not sure why people are saying that. Maybe perhaps because some people ran out of things to say for advice?

Thanks, I've been trying to provide as much infor for people here to better assist me as I can! I have made up my own mind
about what to do about this whole situation. I tried my new psu with my new power strip for now and it ran great. However
the big test will be after I try to power it on again a second time after it's been plugged in over night. This is when my last
psu died on me. I'll keep you guys posted on what happens if you want but for the most part I got all the help and needed
discussion from here that I wanted. Thank you all so much!


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