# new to watercooling



## d1nky (Jun 24, 2013)

hey, im about to purchase an xspc raystorm RS240 kit.

i also want some monsoon compression fittings and because im vain want some red hose.


i have been reading and watching guides to watercooling for a couple weeks now, but sizes are still alien to me. 

IM A NOOB, so with this kit 
http://www.xs-pc.com/watercooling-kits/raystorm-750-rs240-watercooling-kit

what size fittings would i need?

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/search_results.php?keywords=monsoon+compression&sortby=priceDesc

and what size hose?

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/cat/Hose-and-Accessories_38.html


i kind of guessed hose would be dependent on fittings and vice versa. but which is best for me and what do i need.....


my shopping list also includes 

distilled water - would 5 litres be enough for a couple changes?
biocide 
couple more fans

thankyou kind fellows.... and yea its about time i got a waterloop lol


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## de.das.dude (Jun 24, 2013)

congrats on going watercooling


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## TheBlackPrince (Jun 24, 2013)

*Overkill*

Unless you want to water-cool your graphics card (Witch voids the warranty) then I would suggest something like this,
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_23&products_id=22307
instead of a full water cooling system. The fact that its self contained means you really don't have any issues with warranty voids due to water damage, and its also a hell of a lot easier to install.

Also the Corsair water-coolers are close on silent, and draw minimal power.


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## RCoon (Jun 24, 2013)

G1/4" fittings with 5/8" Outer Diameter and 7/16" inner diameter, as that is the specification of the hose you are using with the kit.
I recommend compression fittings.

5 litres of distilled water is a little OTT.



TheBlackPrince said:


> Unless you want to water-cool your graphics card (Witch voids the warranty) then I would suggest.



This is an enthusiast site, dont knock the guy for going watercooling, and as long as you contact the card maker beforehand, they will agree it will not void warranty.


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## radrok (Jun 24, 2013)

Depends, if you want to make a CPU only loop the fittings and tubing that is bundled is enough for you to make the first loop.

Anyway if you get that kit you'll need 7/16 fittings and 7/16 barbs. Don't mind the G1/4 that's the connection thread that goes on the other side of the tube and gets screwed to the components (rad waterblock etc), that' standard and it does not change for watercooling, unless you buy strange fittings like G1/8 threaded.

I'd get BI-distilled water to be honest.

If you could splurge a bit more and get the D5 Raystorm kit you'd have the best to start with, components you won't change anytime soon.


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## Jack1n (Jun 24, 2013)

If your case supports it i would actually get this kit:
http://www.xs-pc.com/watercooling-kits/raystorm-d5-ex280-watercooling-kit


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## Judas (Jun 24, 2013)

Congrats on joining the water club =) Id would go for a thicker Rad, and the kit comes with tubing


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## RCoon (Jun 24, 2013)

Judas said:


> Congrats on joining the water club =) Id would go for a thicker Rad, and the kit comes with tubing



http://www.xs-pc.com/radiators-rx-series/rx240-dual-fan-radiator-v2

^ That rad would suit better, there's always EK and other brands though.


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## Jack1n (Jun 24, 2013)

Such a thick rad might not fit in his case,you would also really want to use push/pull with such a rad which makes it quite space consuming.


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## radrok (Jun 24, 2013)

Jack1n said:


> Such a thick rad might not fit in his case,you would also really want to use push/pull with such a rad which makes it quite space consuming.



Why Push+Pull on a 63mm thick radiator? Push or Pull is fine enough because it's a low FPI radiator.

You need to watch FPI more than thickness to judge if you need more air pressure


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## RCoon (Jun 24, 2013)

Jack1n said:


> Such a thick rad might not fit in his case,you would also really want to use push/pull with such a rad which makes it quite space consuming.



Read the product description, its specifically made as a low FPI rad, so you wouldnt need a huge amount of air pressure. Just push fans would be fine. And D1nky is all for looking badass. That big radiator looks badass.


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## Jack1n (Jun 24, 2013)

http://www.zalman.com/global/product/Product_Read.php?Idx=476 - This is the case he has so i still doubt it will fit even with a single set of fans,unless he removed the plastic cover on the top and mounts it externally.


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## Law-II (Jun 24, 2013)

Hi

This is a helpful post here
Thanks go out to Juggalo23451



d1nky said:


> what size fittings would i need? and what size hose?


G1/4″ to 1/2″ Barbs [come with the kit]
Clear 7/16″ Hose     [come with the kit]

Quoted "7/16 inch-people use this size tubing on 1/2 barbs for a tighter fit/seal
1/2 inch" from Juggalo23451 guide



d1nky said:


> distilled water - would 5 litres be enough for a couple changes?


Yes 


d1nky said:


> biocide


Good 


d1nky said:


> couple more fans


Try and get hold of HIGH static pressure fans if they are to be mounted on the rad, there are a few post's on TPU about this.

Tip: get a T fitting barb and a stop barb attached to a length of tube [T Line] for the base of the loop, makes for easier draining and maintenance and dont forget to pre-charge the pump with fluid if the res is not directly above it, flow res out; pump out;cpu waterblock in to center barb with the other barb at the top [lessons the chance of air bubbles getting trapped in the water block] keep the tube as short as possible without it kinking or folding. [always test the loop outside the case before fitting and check for leaks]

Edit: Water cooling case suggestions here 
Thanks go out to Juggalo23451

nb: have to agree with Jack1n; the Zalman is a great air cooler, but not ideal for H2o cooling without mounting the rad externally or hard modding the Zalman z11+

atb (all the best)

Law-II


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## Judas (Jun 24, 2013)

Thats a nice rad, much better =) should fit his case with a pull fan set-up 

EBWB have a few kits 

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits.html








RCoon said:


> http://www.xs-pc.com/radiators-rx-series/rx240-dual-fan-radiator-v2
> 
> ^ That rad would suit better, there's always EK and other brands though.


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## RCoon (Jun 24, 2013)

Judas said:


> Thats a nice rad, much better =) should fit his case with a pull fan set-up
> 
> EBWB have a few kits
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits.html



That EK 240L kit is a particularly good one, though the hosing is black.


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## d1nky (Jun 24, 2013)

wow so many posts!

ok i know the case doesnt fit much in, but im enjoying modding atm. i may even cut out the front bays and have it vertical at the front. 

it will be 4 performance corsairs push/pull

im also planning on get a little cylinder res for drainage etc

i dont want to spend too much money, i want monsoon fittings because ive heard and read they are pretty good and better for seals. 

this is just a start of a kit, tbh im not really planning on watercooling my gfx yet. until i get a second card at least. but a full plate is about £80 which...... not yet!!

ocuk have just emailed me to state the order number i want to switch - so it has to be ocuk as they got my money already lol

this is just for my cpu, and overkill is the best kind of kill. and if doesnt fit in the case i got other options - new mod and ive been offered a 800D for cheap.

i thought 5 litres of distilled was a bit too much, but i can freeze some up 


anyways im buying the kit now and probably the fittings later today

pulled the trigger on the xspc kit

and about to order:

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/M...Compression-Fitting-Six-Pack-White_33609.html

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/M...-15911mm-716ID-UV-Reactive-Red-33m_12119.html


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## d1nky (Jun 24, 2013)

radrok said:


> Don't mind the G1/4 that's the connection thread that goes on the other side of the tube and gets screwed to the components (rad waterblock etc), that' standard and it does not change for watercooling



thank god because i was getting confused with that part!

apologies for Double post teh other was full lol

btw those othe rkits are about £160+ i dont want to spend too much money, as i havent got much left lol plus the monsoons/seperate cylinder and the rest totalled about £200


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## radrok (Jun 24, 2013)

You are basically going to get a 6-pack moonsoon right? I don't like them though, probably cause I'm a traditional compression fan


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## d1nky (Jun 24, 2013)

yea, ive just heard theyre best for seals, and well im a noob and dont want to take any chances. plus they loog pretty damn good!


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## RCoon (Jun 24, 2013)

d1nky said:


> thank god because i was getting confused with that part!
> 
> apologies for Double post teh other was full lol
> 
> btw those othe rkits are about £160+ i dont want to spend too much money, as i havent got much left lol plus the monsoons/seperate cylinder and the rest totalled about £200



Why not just buy one of their complete kits, the OcUK Tech Lab - V8 Watercooling Kit 240 is pretty good, just replace the fittings later? Colour the water red afterwards?


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## radrok (Jun 24, 2013)

d1nky said:


> ive just heard theyre best for seals



I honestly don't know about that but well tightened traditional compressions aren't going anywhere.


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## techtard (Jun 24, 2013)

The XSPC starter kits are pretty good, but I heard that the versions with the d5 pumps are much more reliable than the kit that includes the 750.
The d5 versions of the kit are more expensive, but they come with compression fittings instead of barbs. I have been using mine for months with no leaks so far.

I own both a used and new d5 raystorm kit, and they are awesome.
Welcome to the club. 

PS Watercooling is addictive, I have spent money already on more fans, rads, hose and fittings to expand my loops and tune for both performance and quietness! (and seriously thinking about a new case and more parts)


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## d1nky (Jun 24, 2013)

ive ordered the Rs kit now.


the reason i dont want the other kits is the cost theyre all about £180 whereas this was £130

the compression fittings are just for aesethetics and incase im crap at barb fittings lol


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## radrok (Jun 24, 2013)

techtard said:


> Watercooling is addictive



Man what you've said...


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## RCoon (Jun 24, 2013)

d1nky said:


> ive ordered the Rs kit now.
> 
> 
> the reason i dont want the other kits is the cost theyre all about £180 whereas this was £130
> ...



Barb fittings are fine, its just the RS kit has plastic barb clips. Not entirely sure id trust them. I could always order the same one as you and we can board the fail train together. Then I'll just mount my H100 to my 780 instead.

That RS kit did get a half decent review though.

EDIT: Bought myself a kit, only with 1 litre of white fluid, so i dont have to buy biocide or white tubing! Should arrive at work tomorrow sometime.


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## d1nky (Jun 24, 2013)

what fittings are you getting?!

thats another reason why i wanted the monsoon compression fittings, style and the barbs need hose clips.

something £30 more than a H100 and is twice is good is decent in my eyes. and liek anything we always buy more shit for it lol

where can i get distilled from? i thought i could go pick it up from a shop or DIY store?


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## d1nky (Jun 24, 2013)

could i buy larger hose and fittings to match?!


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## RCoon (Jun 24, 2013)

d1nky said:


> what fittings are you getting?!
> 
> thats another reason why i wanted the monsoon compression fittings, style and the barbs need hose clips.
> 
> ...



Car garage, petrol station usually. Standard barb fittings will do fine for me.

You can get any hose to match fittings of the same type, as long as the fittings are G1/4" on the thread side.

Cost me £165 in all, so 50% more expensive than the H100, and not a massive amount better from what I can tell.


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## m1dg3t (Jun 24, 2013)

You can get distilled water at your grocer!  I never had a problem using 7/16 hose on 1/2 barb, also never had trouble using zip ties for 1/2 hose on 1/2 barb... Just sayin'


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## d1nky (Jun 24, 2013)

i may just get 1/2 inch monsoons and hose

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/M...Compression-Fitting-Six-Pack-White_28891.html

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/M...13mm-12ID-UV-Reactive-Dark-Red-33m_12188.html


would that be ok on the xspc kit anoyone?


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## RCoon (Jun 24, 2013)

d1nky said:


> i may just get 1/2 inch monsoons and hose
> 
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/M...Compression-Fitting-Six-Pack-White_28891.html
> 
> ...



Anything with a G1/4" thread fitting will fit fine


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## d1nky (Jun 24, 2013)

it nevers says on the descriptions 

OCUK are being slow, so this may be a weekend project now


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## radrok (Jun 24, 2013)

Yeah you are fine but man 1/2 is giant you sure you want to go with that?

Bigger tubing doesn't translate to better temps anyway, unless you run straws diameter lol.

I found that 3/8 is the sweet spot, doesn't kink too much and it is easily manageable.


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## RCoon (Jun 24, 2013)

d1nky said:


> it nevers says on the descriptions
> 
> OCUK are being slow, so this may be a weekend project now



Moan more, they can do next day delivery when orders are made before 4pm. Just dont overcomplicate your order eh 

EDIT: Why not stick with the same tubing and get some red coloured coolant instead from OCUK? Then you dont have to mess with tubing and can just get some 7/16" red fittings.


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## m1dg3t (Jun 24, 2013)

RCoon said:


> Anything with a G1/4" thread fitting will fit fine



AFAIK since Thermochill stopped making RADs there is nothing that uses the "Old" G 3/8 thread, everything has been standardized to G 1/4...


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## d1nky (Jun 24, 2013)

i want something big and bold.... ive seen a few wc rigs and the tubing looks small and i didnt like it, seen big and looks good.

im getting on the phone..... ON HOLD WTF!


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## RCoon (Jun 24, 2013)

d1nky said:


> i want something big and bold.... ive seen a few wc rigs and the tubing looks small and i didnt like it, seen big and looks good.
> 
> im getting on the phone.....



7/16" is almost 1/2", which is largish.


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## d1nky (Jun 24, 2013)

tunnneeeeeeeeeeeee! i bet theyve gone home


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## m1dg3t (Jun 24, 2013)

d1nky said:


> i want something big and bold.... ive seen a few wc rigs and the tubing looks small and i didnt like it, seen big and looks good.
> 
> im getting on the phone.....



Then go with 1/2 hose & fittings  

If you want colour, try and go with coloured tubing instead of using dyes or coloured fluid. You'll be better off in the long run  In case i mised that...


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## RCoon (Jun 24, 2013)

m1dg3t said:


> If you want colour, try and go with coloured tubing instead of using dyes or coloured fluid. You'll be better off in the long run  In case i mised that...



Sorry, I'm a cheap-ass, I'm sure it wont bother me too much.


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## d1nky (Jun 24, 2013)

ok got on the phone, its here tomorrow WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOPPPPPPPPP!

got to order a bunch of stuff from watercoolinguk now


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## m1dg3t (Jun 24, 2013)

RCoon said:


> Sorry, I'm a cheap-ass, I'm sure it wont bother me too much.



I'm confuzzled?  Are you saying you be using coloured tubing? It should be the same $$$ as clear tubing...

@ D1nky: These may come in handy for you http://martinsliquidlab.org/ & http://skinneelabs.com/


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## RCoon (Jun 24, 2013)

m1dg3t said:


> I'm confuzzled?  Are you saying you'll be using coloured tubing? It should be the same $$$ as clear tubing...
> 
> @ D1nky: These may come in handy for you http://martinsliquidlab.org/ & http://skinneelabs.com/



Using the clear tubing that comes with the kit, and bought 1 litre of white coolant. All worked out cheaper, as coolant is pre biocided and i wont have to buy extra tubing.


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## radrok (Jun 24, 2013)

Man cheaper and colored coolant doesn't bode well. Just sayin' lol.


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## m1dg3t (Jun 24, 2013)

RCoon said:


> Using the clear tubing that comes with the kit, and bought 1 litre of white coolant. All worked out cheaper, as coolant is pre biocided and i wont have to buy extra tubing.



When your temps shoot up and you have to rip apart your rig to clean the gunk out of your block and then replace all the tubing, get back to me about that


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## RCoon (Jun 24, 2013)

radrok said:


> Man cheaper and colored coolant doesn't bode well. Just sayin' lol.



Because?



m1dg3t said:


> When your temps shoot up and you have to rip apart your rig to clean the gunk out of your block and then replace all the tubing, get back to me about that



I'll just have to wait and see!

"With system working life of about 2 years this fluid will last you a long time."
"Blended with Non-Toxic Corrosion & Scale Inhibitors for protection of Copper, Brass, Steel, Nickel and Aluminium Proven to ASTM D3306 and BS6580 standards"


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## radrok (Jun 24, 2013)

Something like this can and probably will happen.


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## RCoon (Jun 24, 2013)

You guys are such killjoys, let me have my fun for christ's sake xD


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## m1dg3t (Jun 24, 2013)

RCoon said:


> I'll just have to wait and see!



After some waiting, you will see!  

Not to mention the small loss in thermals when using coloured fluid. If that matters to you...

For a CPU only loop, in a STD case, 5ft of tubing should be more than enough. 10Ft of tubing will usually last me a re-do or 2.


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## radrok (Jun 24, 2013)

RCoon said:


> You guys are such killjoys, let me have my fun for christ's sake xD



Well maybe your waterblock stain will be prettier cause the coolant is white


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## m1dg3t (Jun 24, 2013)

radrok said:


> Something like this can and probably will happen.
> 
> http://i308.photobucket.com/albums/kk341/hughythomas/IMG_0557.jpg





m1dg3t said:


> After some waiting, you will see!





See, you didn't even have to wait very long!


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## RCoon (Jun 24, 2013)

m1dg3t said:


> After some waiting, you will see!
> 
> Not to mention the small loss in thermals when using coloured fluid. If that matters to you...
> 
> For a CPU only loop, in a STD case, 5ft of tubing should be more than enough. 10Ft of tubing will usually last me a re-do or 2.



780 definitely doesnt need water. At its maximum overclock I cant get the thing past 70 degrees on full benchmark load. And its a stock cooler.


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## radrok (Jun 24, 2013)

But does it throttle?


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## RCoon (Jun 24, 2013)

radrok said:


> But does it throttle?



Nope. Only throttles when it hits 85, which it doesnt. Custom fan profiles and proper case setups help temps a great deal.

Also, from a Mayhem Rep:

"There is a difference between Dyes or Coolants. Coolants do contain dyes but they all so contain either glycol of vegetable extracts. Some glycol in the past may have had problems how ever the world have moved on so have the evolution is liquids.

Buid up is mainly caused by plasticizers in tubing ad this in turn then get dyed but the dyes (as that what dye does). To the normal every day user who doesn't know any better they will think the root cause of the problem is the dye but unbeknown to them its not the actual problem but there narrow mindedness makes them believe this. 

The only thing dyes really do is stain but that normal... So if you would like to aviod any type of staining at all then do not use dye. if you fancy pretty colors in you system then dyes are the way to go.

If you would like to avoid the main issue of build up then avoid crappy flexible tubing that was intended to be used on gas and not water. "


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## d1nky (Jun 24, 2013)

ok i may have to wait for the other stuff, ive just added a bunch of nice looking stuff to my basket and it come up to £100+ 

fittings
hose
biocide
res
fans

i see what ya mean by being addictive............


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## RCoon (Jun 24, 2013)

d1nky said:


> ok i may have to wait for the other stuff, ive just added a bunch of nice looking stuff to my basket and it come up to £100+
> 
> fittings
> hose
> ...



So you bought that stuff plus the whole kit from OCUK? You may as well have bought the items seperately.


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## d1nky (Jun 24, 2013)

nah i bought the kit and need to get those things..... ive just spent £140+ so will wait till tomorrow or another day for the rest lol

the rest im getting from watercoolinguk - that list basically


UPDATE: email saying its been shipped!

WOOP! - I may put it all together before the other stuff or just play around with ice and benches lol


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## Deleted member 24505 (Jun 24, 2013)

Enjoy getting your feet wet, so to speak d1nky. I've had some fun in the past water cooling, check out my gallery rigs in my sig.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Jun 24, 2013)

TheBlackPrince said:


> Unless you want to water-cool your graphics card (Witch voids the warranty) then I would suggest something like this,
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_23&products_id=22307
> instead of a full water cooling system. The fact that its self contained means you really don't have any issues with warranty voids due to water damage, and its also a hell of a lot easier to install.
> 
> Also the Corsair water-coolers are close on silent, and draw minimal power.



water cooling gpus do not void your warranty unless you damage the card and the vendor finds out it's from water cooling or if that vendor does not support removal of the cooler. but if you do have issues just throw the stock cooler back on and send it in.


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## d1nky (Jun 24, 2013)

watercooling gpus is expensive plus i can oc the shit out of mine with 1350v and its barely passed 60*c with a decent fan curve - benches

gaming stock - no noise and below 60*c

I cant wait for this loop now lol


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## radrok (Jun 24, 2013)

You can use universal waterblocks, I usually do with GPUs.


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## Deleted member 24505 (Jun 24, 2013)

radrok said:


> You can use universal waterblocks, I usually do with GPUs.



I think that's possibly better depending on the card and block, I ran a full cover on a 4850 which was expensive, changed the card and the block sat in a drawer for 2 or 3 years till i threw it away.


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## m1dg3t (Jun 24, 2013)

RCoon said:


> Also, from a *Mayhem Rep*:
> 
> "There is a difference between Dyes or Coolants. Coolants do contain dyes but they all so contain either glycol of vegetable extracts. Some glycol in the past may have had problems how ever the world have moved on so have the evolution is liquids.
> 
> ...



What else do you expect him to say? Load of PR shite   Especially the part about tubing designed for fuel, never seen anyone using that. NEVER. And even if someone did use it, it is designed for FUEL! I highly doubt water will damage it. Especially considering i have used fuel line for cooling system repair on autos before. You know, where temp & pressure is an actual factor.

If you want to regularly service your entire loop and dump "coolant" & tubing go ahead. It's your time & $$$ 



radrok said:


> You can use universal waterblocks, I usually do with GPUs.





tigger said:


> I think that's possibly better depending on the card and block, I ran a full cover on a 4850 which was expensive, *changed the card and the block sat in a drawer for 2 or 3 years till i threw it away.*



Exactly the reason why i use GPU only blocks, although full coverage blocks CAN improve clocking with the new GFX and their "boost" features. Depends on temp really, the lower the overall card temp the higher & longer it will "boost" for. And prolly do so using less volts... Is that worth the $$$? Your call


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## RCoon (Jun 24, 2013)

m1dg3t said:


> If you want to regularly service your entire loop and dump "coolant" & tubing go ahead. It's your time & $$$



FINALLY you get the point


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## m1dg3t (Jun 24, 2013)

RCoon said:


> FINALLY you get the point



 

Nice insult! I "got the point" before you even had a clue 

I don't like being wastefull OR spending more $$$ than i need to, simple logic.


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## d1nky (Jun 24, 2013)

well this will be a step down from the aegir, but i think itll be worth it haha!


knowing me id probably be draining it every few days and changing it anyway hahaha

what is the best way to clean rads? the outisde i mean, like between the fins etc


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## m1dg3t (Jun 24, 2013)

I use an air compressor and a vaccuum, on opposing sides. I flush internals with CLR & hot water.


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## RCoon (Jun 24, 2013)

m1dg3t said:


> Nice insult! I "got the point" before you even had a clue
> 
> I don't like being wastefull OR spending more $$$ than i need to, simple logic.



Not insulting you, just waiting for you to stop moaning about my choices because they do not meet your standards.
I told you to quit it(nicely) many posts ago, and yet you continued.


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## m1dg3t (Jun 25, 2013)

RCoon said:


> Not insulting you, just waiting for you to stop moaning about my choices because they do not meet your standards.
> I told you to quit it(nicely) many posts ago, and yet you continued.



Learn to read. You = Fail 

Instead of crapping d1nky's thread with your troll shite, hit me up via PM so i can continue laughing


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## radrok (Jun 25, 2013)

Play nice guys please 

Aren't we supposed to help each other instead of flaming?


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## m1dg3t (Jun 25, 2013)

radrok said:


> Play nice guys
> 
> Aren't we supposed to help each other instead of flaming?



I am playing nice. I am not flaming. Have you bumped your head? Maybe you need an espresso?


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## d1nky (Jun 25, 2013)

Rcoon is cool, he could write anything on here and hijack what he likes - i just do it back to him on his threads lol

BTW it takes two to tango 

ive seen many people using coolant and not said anything bad about it, maybe there is shit in the loop that reacts with the coolant to gunk up. 

i dont know im a noob.


but today its arriving.... so ill be using it to plan out the loop and hopefully get the rest soon.


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## RCoon (Jun 25, 2013)

m1dg3t said:


> I am playing nice. I am not flaming. Have you bumped your head? Maybe you need an espresso?



Lets just agree this conversation should have ended when i said i was perfectly happy with my choice.
That's the end of it.

Just be sure when you install your loop you leave a little excess tubing going from the rad and block to the res. In the videos I've seen, they pull the res out of the front of the bay and fill it up there, its on the official Raystorm FAQ anyway, and seems like a legit choice.
Also from what I've read over numberous places, you dont have to worry too much about air bubbles, as they disperse by themselves after a week or so.


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## d1nky (Jun 25, 2013)

im not sure ill be putting it together properly as i know there isnt enough clearance for the ram, i will need to drill new mounting holes.

im not sure the res/pump will fit where i got the fan mounted in the bay. 

but i may cut the hose in three bits, get some ice from tesco and distilled and run some benches lol


you must post pics rcoon, use this thread if ya want!


im off to work now, angle grinding the floor for tarmac - good fun lol


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## RCoon (Jun 25, 2013)

d1nky said:


> im not sure ill be putting it together properly as i know there isnt enough clearance for the ram, i will need to drill new mounting holes.
> 
> im not sure the res/pumo will fit where i got the fan mounted in the bay.
> 
> ...



Yeah I'll post pics after I've run an overnight leak test.
I've seen pictures of the radiator, and some of them seem to come with brackets, similar to the H100 brackets for mounting in the NZXT's, only for mounting to the exterior of the case. I have these, and I bent them to about a 45 degree angle, and screw the bracket on to the rad. This means the rad is able to clear my RAM, as the Beast RAM would normally get in the way.

I know 15th Warlock used little reservoirs you could hook up to components directly filled with ice cold distilled water just to get the PC to post.


----------



## radrok (Jun 25, 2013)

RCoon said:


> Also from what I've read over numberous places, you dont have to worry too much about air bubbles, as they disperse by themselves after a week or so.



If you use a fairly big tube reservoir it's much much easier to bleed, my loop bleeds in like 15 minutes.







Couple of months pic old 

Missing one Titan there 


Have I already said that quick disconnects are awesome? ^^


----------



## d1nky (Jun 25, 2013)

15 minutes and more to drain a loop?!

i see why i liked aircooling haha! 

i want some quick disconnects on a small res im having at the bottom, or maybe ill just unscrew the res cap and let it flow out. 


how do you guys drain a loop? with pump off or on? or on for a second etc


----------



## radrok (Jun 25, 2013)

My loop is modular with quick disconnects so I just unplug the part I need to drain.

The GPUs are separated by their QDCs, same for the mobo blocks + cpu block.

Each radiator is separated by QDCs too.

This is why I like test benches, I can basically swap components in 5 minutes even though I'm watercooling.

If you don't use QDCs then you have to "pop off" one fitting on the lowest part of the loop and let gravity do the work for you. NO PUMP to drain the loop, you can damage it by running it on air.

Oh you could always use a drain port, you just put in in the lowest part of the loop.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 25, 2013)

ah just like bleeding a person...... lol

i havent planned out my loop yet tbh.... but i can see this becoming an addictive venture!


----------



## radrok (Jun 25, 2013)

Oh it will man, my loop costs almost as much as my hardware...


----------



## d1nky (Jun 25, 2013)

any other tips?

and is the whole 24hours of leak testing needed?


----------



## radrok (Jun 25, 2013)

I strongly recommend it for the first times you install your loop.

I don't leak test anymore (WELL maybe 2 hours ) cause I've been doing this for years and I can tell you with Koolance compressions water isn't going anywhere.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 25, 2013)

ah what i may do then is size it all up plan it out. cut and make the loop outside the case, use the spare psu and leave it running outside for 24hours.

then assemble it in the case, and test for a couple hours.

i would want my rig working, been too many times its been in bits now lol


----------



## radrok (Jun 25, 2013)

I usually do the motherboard part (VRM+CPU+PCH) before installing the motherboard on the case/bench then I proceed with the rest.

Doing CPU only is fairly easy and it shouldn't take more than 10 minutes IMHO but take your time and tighten your fittings well.

Don't get hardware wet cause if that happens you'll have to wait a day to be sure it's properly dried.


----------



## RCoon (Jun 25, 2013)

I'm looking at Titan blocks and extra 120mm Rads now...
Easiest thing to do seems to be fit it to your components so you get the tubing length and set up correct, then take the whole thing out and fill it up externally, followed by leak testing.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 25, 2013)

ive got a delivery time for in the hour 


just ordered hose/monsoon fittings/biocide from watercoolinguk

this place has the best customer service ive ever known!


----------



## radrok (Jun 25, 2013)

If you want a fullcover I strongly recommend Aquacomputer considering you are in Europe, you can find them easily and they're top notch.


----------



## RCoon (Jun 25, 2013)

d1nky said:


> ive got a delivery time for in the hour
> 
> 
> just ordered hose/monsoon fittings/biocide from watercoolinguk
> ...



Mine is due between 1 and 2pm today.



radrok said:


> If you want a fullcover I strongly recommend Aquacomputer considering you are in Europe, you can find them easily and they're top notch.



Looking at the EK Water Blocks EK-FC Titan - Nickel Full


----------



## radrok (Jun 25, 2013)

EK is good too but I would recommend you to pick plain copper if you choose so.

Just to be safe


----------



## RCoon (Jun 25, 2013)

radrok said:


> EK is good too but I would recommend you to pick plain copper if you choose so.
> 
> Just to be safe



Kryographics copper one then?


----------



## radrok (Jun 25, 2013)

Oh I'm sorry I haven't been clear 

Aquacomputer and Watercool is fine if you chose them in Nickel variant.

I have myself two Nickel plated Kryographics blocks.

With EK I would recommend to stay with copper.

Basically EK has had a very very big problem with their Nickel plating procedure in the past which basically consisted in nickel flaking from the blocks and that has been quite a fiasco considering they gave the fault to consumers instead of admitting their fault in the process.

They seem to have solved the problems cause the newest batch from CSQ onward has been fine with almost no reports of nickel flaking.

I'd still be on the safe side and if I had to purchase from them I'd buy only copper.

I don't want to bash EK or anything, this is a dead horse but I find appropriate to give the right information to whoever wants to get into watercooling.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 25, 2013)

mines arrived... theres sooo much stuff lol

i want to finish work and start playing ha!


ive just realised i need a fan controller or something. may make some molex to 3 pin header connectors. 

and the fans with the kit seem pretty decent and nice bit of airflow, may have them in pull with the fan guards hiding them.


oh and a lil bag of sweets


----------



## radrok (Jun 25, 2013)

These XSPC kits are solid man, that's why the D5 Raystorm is basically the best kit ever.

You get an extremely reliable high end pump with a top performing waterblock and high end radiator (depends on the model).

That being said the fourth revision of their pump X2O is no slouch either. 

It can drive CPU + GPU + two high flow rads with no issue.


----------



## RCoon (Jun 25, 2013)

d1nky said:


> mines arrived... theres sooo much stuff lol
> 
> i want to finish work and start playing ha!
> 
> ...



I need to choose whether to use my Nidecs or recycle my H100 fans, as I doubt the fans that come with the kit are as powerful as either two. Mine should arrive within the next 40 mins! Lucky for me, the NZXT Phantom has a built in fan controller


----------



## d1nky (Jun 25, 2013)

i should be getting all round corsair sp120s, ive got two but need a matching set.

airflow 65cfm
static pressure 1.8
1650rpm

should be ok with corsairs for the time being

i got a proper pipe cutter as well, perfect cuts


----------



## RCoon (Jun 25, 2013)

d1nky said:


> i should be getting all round corsair sp120s, ive got two but need a matching set.
> 
> airflow 65cfm
> static pressure 1.8
> ...



Stock H100 are 7.7 Static pressure, Nidecs are around 36.7 I think? Depends on how good the cooling is, I might go for better sound possibilities.
I'll laugh if its not much better than a H100.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 25, 2013)

i wont know because i been rocking the aegir for a bit.


tbh the rad looks a bit shit


----------



## RCoon (Jun 25, 2013)

d1nky said:


> tbh the rad looks a bit shit



That's what I was worried about


----------



## d1nky (Jun 25, 2013)

these sp120s are evenly matched on airflow but double the static pressure.

they should match up ok on push/pull

i dont have a clue how ill mount the rad.

if it is shit i may just get a 120 rad to add in lol


this is getting addictive, damn you watercooling peer pressure!


i best get back to work..... enjoy....


----------



## radrok (Jun 25, 2013)

It's fine for a CPU loop only though.


----------



## RCoon (Jun 25, 2013)

Mine arrived, stock fans looks kinda crappy, but thats fine, I wont be using them. Somehow the 2 meters of tubing doesnt look to be enough, but I'm sure when measured out properly thats fine. 240mm Rad looks a little bad for sure, but I'm certain it is generally a better radiator than the H100. All in all, looks promising, definitely entry level stuff, radiator could be thicker.

EDIT: OMNOMNOMNOM HARIBOS NOM


----------



## radrok (Jun 25, 2013)

Now off to work on that loop!

You'll be having plenty of fun


----------



## RCoon (Jun 25, 2013)

radrok said:


> Now off to work on that loop!
> 
> You'll be having plenty of fun



I'm at work, the closest thing to gaming I have is my mouse and keyboard xD


----------



## Knight091 (Jun 25, 2013)

d1nky said:


> hey, im about to purchase an xspc raystorm RS240 kit.
> 
> i also want some monsoon compression fittings and because im vain want some red hose.
> 
> ...



I have been thinking of getting the xspc raystorm as well.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 25, 2013)

knight thought you had like a sweet watercool loop anyway?

this would be a down step for ya.


and rcoon we got the same sweeties lol

just got 5L distilled from halfords for a few quid.


----------



## Knight091 (Jun 25, 2013)

d1nky said:


> knight thought you had like a sweet watercool loop anyway?
> 
> this would be a down step for ya.
> 
> ...



No I mean the water block...lol

That is the XSPC Raystorm CPU Waterblock..


----------



## de.das.dude (Jun 25, 2013)

since this is a info-ish thread...

can someone tell me why people dont use car-engine coolant?


----------



## d1nky (Jun 25, 2013)

omg watercooling is friggin wicked! 

the loop is outside running, tbh i dont know why im testing it like this as i got other stuff to come. air bubbles disappeared straight away! no leaks so far with the standard fittings. there was some shit in the loop so that will be gone when i change stuff arond and flush next time. 

probably will freeze the remaining 5L of distilled 


i can see this is going to be very very addictive!


@DDD i was in the car shop earlier and was thinking the same lol


----------



## Knight091 (Jun 25, 2013)

d1nky said:


> omg watercooling is friggin wicked!
> 
> the loop is outside running, tbh i dont know why im testing it like this as i got other stuff to come. air bubbles disappeared straight away! no leaks so far with the standard fittings. there was some shit in the loop so that will be gone when i change stuff arond and flush next time.
> 
> ...



Why you think I built a loop and ripped it out and redoing another..lol


----------



## d1nky (Jun 25, 2013)

haha i know!

i cant wait to get this all together, still got to plan out the cylinder res route and think about the rad fitting


----------



## shoestring (Jun 25, 2013)

I take my watercooling loop apart often.  I add a few things move the rads around tweak the fans... its the best part of watercooling is...the tinkering.

My advice would be ....   slow down .....   enjoy the build  .... it reduces the mistakes and errors.


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Jun 25, 2013)

Lol I never used to leak test mine, I'd just whack it all in, never really had any probs.


----------



## 20mmrain (Jun 25, 2013)

d1nky said:


> i should be getting all round corsair sp120s, ive got two but need a matching set.
> 
> airflow 65cfm
> static pressure 1.8
> ...



I would go for the SP's with 2300 RPM's and a Static pressure of 3.1mm instead of the1600RPM model. Reason... because they can be turned down under normal use but they are also able too be turned up when needed for better temps. I love mine! I jut switched from some NZXT fans to the Corasair SP's and haven't looked back since.



> I take my watercooling loop apart often. I add a few things move the rads around tweak the fans... its the best part of watercooling is...the tinkering.
> 
> My advice would be .... slow down ..... enjoy the build .... it reduces the mistakes and errors.



I 100% agree with this statement! Take your time! The outcome will look way better and you will have way more fun!



> Lol I never used to leak test mine, I'd just whack it all in, never really had any probs.



Well then you are lucky! For me.... Why risk your expensive investment for little extra effort. I would much rather be safe than sorry.... Plus it really doesn't take much effort to setup your loop outside the case for testing. 

I not only always tested outside my case.... But I also tested inside after re-assembly to verify I put everything back together correctly.


----------



## RCoon (Jun 25, 2013)

Installed it all, figured I'd put everything together and turn the fancy lights on (they're all white, but phone camera is so awful it makes it all look blue...) and take some photos for people to see. Right now I'm going to run it overnight to do some leak testing, so far max temps are 67 when running Prime95


































I have some more White CLC Cathodes arriving Thursday, as well as half a metre of white LED's to strap to the inside of the case, for some total white-out and emphasize the tubing. For now that will have to do until Thursday!
EDIT: I've also done some cable tidying as those PCI-E power cables looked pretty messy.


----------



## Law-II (Jun 25, 2013)

Hi



de.das.dude said:


> since this is a info-ish thread...
> 
> can someone tell me why people dont use car-engine coolant?



I do; first into H2o with a Danger Den kit here shipped with MCT-5 

atb

Law-II


----------



## Irony (Jun 26, 2013)

Lol, 5 pages in 2 days. 

Water cooling does get addicting, (and expensive fast) but hey, we can justify it cuz we're enthusiasts. lol. 

I've got Monsoon fittings. I love how they look, they really give a clean look. I also have 1/2x3/4 tubing, I like it bigger. I think it looks better. 
The monsoons were a major pain to install on this particular tubing tho because it's thicker than its rated size by almost a 1/16, but I think they would be perfect on just about any other tubing. 

Also, I wasn't really clear on it, did you end up buying the water online? Cuz you can get distilled water at the grocery store. I think someone mentioned that. I just have straight distilled water in mine, and I know there are some others on here too. I think as long as you drain it and everything every few months you're good.

Also, last but not least I'm pretty much a noob too. lol


----------



## d1nky (Jun 26, 2013)

rcoon that looks pretty good with white liquid in there. shame you couldnt get teh rad to sit higher up or something. i got pretty confused with the 1million screws and thread bars that came haha!

ive got the same routing with the hose set up, just got to plan how to get hose to the cylinder i want at the bottom.

so temps are pretty good in comparison?!

my 1/2 hose and monsoon fittings should be here by the weekend. friday ill order a cylinder res. and some more monsoons to go with it. 


yea i got the distilled from a car shop, £3.99 for 5 litres.


----------



## RCoon (Jun 26, 2013)

d1nky said:


> rcoon that looks pretty good with white liquid in there. shame you couldnt get teh rad to sit higher up or something. i got pretty confused with the 1million screws and thread bars that came haha!
> 
> ive got the same routing with the hose set up, just got to plan how to get hose to the cylinder i want at the bottom.
> 
> ...



Yeah theres plenty of screws, it actually came with some useful screws I used for something else, and the rubber washers for the mounting bracket you can use for external mounting proved to be very useful for a couple of screws that were too long in my other case! H100 max temps in P95 were around 87, now after a re-paste on the delid and the watercooling, max temps are 67-68 in P95, so all in all a pretty epic temperature drop. I also have LOADS of hosing left, and about 175ml of coolant too. Eventually, I'll invest in a GPU block, but for now I need to save money for a car damnit!


----------



## radrok (Jun 26, 2013)

Yeah the issue with watercooling is that you reach a point where you are limited by 24/7 voltage...

I wish I could go higher than 1.53v without repercussions but it'll probably chew the chip longevity a good deal.

Also this time around nvidia's GK110 doesn't have voltage control so you can't push that good 1.3v-1.35v on water for insane clocks


----------



## d1nky (Jun 26, 2013)

thats pretty cool, this will be a massive improvement from the aegir.


----------



## RCoon (Jun 26, 2013)

radrok said:


> Yeah the issue with watercooling is that you reach a point where you are limited by 24/7 voltage...
> 
> I wish I could go higher than 1.53v without repercussions but it'll probably chew the chip longevity a good deal.



I almost cant be bothered with GPU cooling, because its at its max voltage and temps are 67 under full load anyway, so water wouldnt improve much, and yet it would make the whole thing so much cooler!


----------



## radrok (Jun 26, 2013)

RCoon said:


> yet it would make the whole thing so much cooler!



Yeah you'd cut those temperatures, I never see more than 35C on full load on the GPUs.

Still I would not go fullcover, every single time I do I regret it... they just become expensive paper weight.

You can put an universal block on top of your GPU core and retain the 780/Titan shroud






you just need to remove the vapor chamber on top of the gpu and keep the rest.

Would not look as good as a fullcover but that depends on what you want.


----------



## RCoon (Jun 26, 2013)

radrok said:


> Yeah you'd cut those temperatures, I never see more than 35C on full load on the GPUs.
> 
> Still I would not go fullcover, every single time I do I regret it... they just become expensive paper weight.
> 
> ...



I dont think I'd go full cover, I might even see if I can cut the in/out holes into the GTX shroud and run the universal block inside it, just for tidiness.


----------



## radrok (Jun 26, 2013)

I'm gonna take a couple of pics of my universal waterblocks, gimme 2 minutes 
















Room was a bit dark sorry

Watercool does marvelous waterblocks, they are my choice for radiators.


----------



## RCoon (Jun 26, 2013)

Need to find a GPU block that compatible with the 780/Titan


----------



## radrok (Jun 26, 2013)

I've seen a guy do sick things with universal waterblocks on titans over at ocn.















his build log:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1306477/...s-xeons-3000w-of-power-lanli-water-and-copper


----------



## HammerON (Jun 26, 2013)

RCoon said:


> Need to find a GPU block that compatible with the 780/Titan



I got these for my GTX 780's. Just haven't installed them yet







radrok said:


> I've seen a guy do sick things with universal waterblocks on titans over at ocn.
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/c/c5/c5f8e9b3_IMG_20130520_072729.jpeghttp://cdn.overclock.net/a/a6/a6040548_IMG_20130520_073009.jpeg
> 
> ...



That looks freakin sweet


----------



## radrok (Jun 26, 2013)

Watercool really oozes quality 

They weren't available when I purchased mine so I picked up Aquacomputer.

Hey you have two blocks and a M6E to install, don't slack!!


----------



## HammerON (Jun 26, 2013)

I am still trying to decide if I need to add another rad to my current set-up (EK Supremacy CPU block, EK CoolStream 360 rad and a Swiftech MCP655 pump). I am thinking of getting a 120.2 rad to go between the CPU block and the GPU blocks. The 4770K like to run pretty warm


----------



## radrok (Jun 26, 2013)

120.2 on the bottom compartment of the 800d right?


----------



## RCoon (Jun 26, 2013)

So I'm lookng at the EKWB VGA Supremacy, as their site says its compatible with the GTX 780/Titan. Would a single rear mounted 120mm rad be OK as an addition to cope with the extra load?


----------



## HammerON (Jun 26, 2013)

radrok said:


> 120.2 on the bottom compartment of the 800d right?


Yep. That is what I am thinking. Looking at the EK CoolStream 240 XT...


----------



## RCoon (Jun 26, 2013)

Half tempted to go for an extra RS240 as they're not much more expensive than the 120mm rad. I assume a single pump is more than enough for cpu+gpu?


----------



## HammerON (Jun 26, 2013)

Depends on the pump. But for most, yes it is okay


----------



## radrok (Jun 26, 2013)

Universal GPU blocks are very high flow compared to fullcover so don't worry.



HammerON said:


> Yep. That is what I am thinking. Looking at the EK CoolStream 240 XT...



That should do it IMO, either that one or an XSPC EX240/AX240 or even an Alphacool XT45 (be sure to flush it well if you chose this one).


----------



## de.das.dude (Jun 26, 2013)

Law-II said:


> Hi
> 
> 
> 
> ...



that is an epic coolant.


----------



## radrok (Jun 26, 2013)

I use a coolant too, it's from Aquacomputer.

No distilled pt nuke silver coil or anything else.

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2351

So far so good and my blocks are always clean on every inspection and that's important.

Should add that it takes 4 liters every time I redo my loop lol.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 26, 2013)

you guys are making me want to skip work and start tinkering with my loop lol

well my other shit has been despatched....

i love the look of those heatkillers, do they come in all black or dark chrome?


----------



## radrok (Jun 26, 2013)

That's their Hole edition with Nickel plating and it comes only in Nickel + black.

Then there's their full copper unplated hole edition 

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15535

and the plain unplated copper

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/13120


I have to admit this would look sick with that white coolant, RCoon.






On a side note, thank you guys for bringing some more watercooling discussion to TPU, it was really needed


----------



## d1nky (Jun 26, 2013)

i was goin to start a chilled water/ice thread but may keep it on this, was the main reason i went water tbh!

and ive heard that pumps are loud etc, but this ones near silent. the psu is making more noise lol


and what is the ratio of biocide to water?!


----------



## radrok (Jun 26, 2013)

Generally the noisy pumps are the Laing DDCs which at full throttle they can make your case rattle if not properly decoupled.

Laing D5s are nearly silent.

You want to search some Iwaki-RD30 or Sanso PD31 or PDH 054 action 



d1nky said:


> and what is the ratio of biocide to water?!



Depends on the biocide, it's usually written on the bottle anyway.

What are you using?


----------



## d1nky (Jun 26, 2013)

ive just ordered it and it does say on the description, but i wondered if anyone has a set ratio or theres a general rule for it? plus it says coolant not distilled.

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/10ml-Pulse-Modding-PM-Nuke-Concentrated-Biocide_20876.html


----------



## radrok (Jun 26, 2013)

Coolant is just a word to describe what is used to cool something, so distilled in your case is your coolant.


----------



## RCoon (Jun 26, 2013)

I just noticed this on the EK VGA Supreme:

CAUTION:
 - EK-PSC compression fittings up to size 10mm are supported by this product. Larger EK-PSC series fittings cannot be used!

So does that mean my G1/4 to 1/2 barb fittings (16mm/11mm OD/ID) will be too big?



d1nky said:


> ive just ordered it and it does say on the description, but i wondered if anyone has a set ratio or theres a general rule for it? plus it says coolant not distilled.
> 
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/10ml-Pulse-Modding-PM-Nuke-Concentrated-Biocide_20876.html



1-2drops per litre.

EDIT: Just ordered a 120 rad, extra tubing, fittings, more coolant and an EK VGA Supremacy.


----------



## Law-II (Jun 26, 2013)

Hi



RCoon said:


> CAUTION:
> - EK-PSC compression fittings up to size 10mm are supported by this product. Larger EK-PSC series fittings cannot be used!


Just means that the gap between the fittings cannot accommodate 1/2''OD barbs/compression  fittings *flush to the block
Example:

Source 



RCoon said:


> So does that mean my G1/4 to 1/2 barb fittings (16mm/11mm OD/ID) will be too big


It dose mean that you may have to use something like this attached to the EK Supreme WB first and then attach what you like to the other end.
[Note: this is an example and not an accurate measured fitting]

atb

Law-II


----------



## d1nky (Jun 26, 2013)

well im about to fit my loop into the rig, wish me luck lol


----------



## Law-II (Jun 26, 2013)

Hi



d1nky said:


> well im about to fit my loop into the rig, wish me luck lol



Good Luck 

Take your time try not to rush, double check everything and all will be well

atb

Law-II


----------



## RCoon (Jun 26, 2013)

d1nky said:


> well im about to fit my loop into the rig, wish me luck lol



I'm sure yours will look better than mine  Not so sure my case is the best for watercooling mods. Certainly hoping the GPU block doesnt cause me any problems tomorrow.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 26, 2013)

well well well!

i dont know if it was the anxiety of water and electric but jeez i was worried lol. i took my time and its working, hit several problems.

the rad wouldnt fit anywhere, made new mounting holes fitted to clear the ram. went to fit block and the fan got in the way of the long screws for the block. took one fan off for total of 3 fans push/pull/pull.

wired it all up double checked everything. used an external psu to water test. fill res/pump up with water, turned it on then the pump died. tested other psu and nothing.... dopey bollox forgot to switch connector to other psu lol.

tested again, all working no leaks so far. 

brave enough to wack it all on, load bench profile with 1.55v and WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWWWWWW TEMPS DONT GO ABOVE 40*C WITH PRIME WOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWWW!!


i would take pics but due to the size constraints, and 3 fans. it looks shit tbh!


WOW!


----------



## RCoon (Jun 26, 2013)

d1nky said:


> well well well!
> 
> i dont know if it was the anxiety of water and electric but jeez i was worried lol. i took my time and its working, hit several problems.
> 
> ...



I've been waiting all night for pics man! Dont worry, mine looks pretty average, and not very colour coded with my predominately white and black scheme. Still cool enough for pics regardless of how it was ghetto modded 
Took me 2 1/2 hours to get mine fitted and working, along with the overnight leak testing.
I get to start all over again tomorrow when the GPU stuff arrives along with the extra rad!
If only my i5 required *sensible* voltage, like 1.25 for 4.4ghz, and not 1.32 I might see awesome temps, but these temps are almost 20 degrees lower than the H100, which sometimes got close to 90, but 67 degrees is annoying. When cash falls into my lap I'll be tempted to invest in an extra pump halfway through the loop and an extra rad for some headroom.
I've got to somehow cut into the GTX 780 shroud so I can put it back on over the GPU block tomorrow, and maybe paint the shroud white with the multitudes of model paints I have. Not to mention pray that the barb fittings I bought will fit on the EK VGA Supreme block properly.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 26, 2013)

i have the problem where my socket temp is shooting up and the cpu core temp is staying low. maybe too much pressure or shit airflow?! 

i really need to hard mod this case (again), i want the rad and pull fans on top, cut slots for hose to come through.

i made one hose too long and it drooped on my card, so ive had to hook it on the mounting screw lol

i may just get a new case for what its worth.......

on demand:


----------



## RCoon (Jun 26, 2013)

d1nky said:


> i have the problem where my socket temp is shooting up and the cpu core temp is staying low. maybe too much pressure or shit airflow?!
> 
> i really need to hard mod this case (again), i want the rad and pull fans on top, cut slots for hose to come through.
> 
> ...



Doesnt look that bad at all! I made one of my tubing areas purposefully long so I could pull the res out of the front bay and fill it up, then, if you check my pictures closely, I'm holding the tube up off of my GPU by about 5mm, with a white cable tie hooked around my DVD Drive Sata power cable.
What are your socket temps specifically?

EDIT: I strongly recommend splashing out on a proper case, I wish I could afford to get a case capable of running a 360 and 240 rad but they're all out of my budget.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 26, 2013)

this was running for about twenty mins, forget the time at the bottom.




core temp is cpu0 i understand and the cpu is socket?! ive always gone by cpu0 and never seen cpu - socket with that much of a gap!



i just shat myself, heard something go slap.... looked down and the hose came off its resting place lol.... now its 5mm away from the card


----------



## RCoon (Jun 26, 2013)

HAH! Whole system covered in water, my worst nightmare at this point.
I saw nothing except headphones and boobs...

Socket temps are a little high ish but not so bad?


----------



## d1nky (Jun 26, 2013)

its shit on these amd mounts you have to have the original back plate. i got a feeling because i could only find a shit AMD one that fits, its creating heat build up as its a lump of insulated metal.

got to find another one tbh with plenty of holes. 

im liking these core temps tho. id never be able to get 5ghz stable and lower volts before. 

so far im good at 4.9ghz and its a breeze!


what do you do when ya leave the rig for the first time? im thinking of putting some rag in there while i sleep lol


----------



## RCoon (Jun 26, 2013)

d1nky said:


> what do you do when ya leave the rig for the first time? im thinking of putting some rag in there while i sleep lol



I filled the insides with approximately 1 entire roll of toilet roll, spread underneath each area of possible drips from fittings 
Go down to your local ripoff merchant PC shop, ask them if they have any broken AM3 motherboards you can "borrow" the rear bracket from, my local place give me all kinds of nice stuff from broken machines, including brackets, solid SLI bridges, spare cut bits of pc cable I can solder etc.


----------



## 20mmrain (Jun 27, 2013)

If your socket temp is rising it might be because you now have less airflow flowing over the CPU area. This is because you are now water cooling. So less air gets pulled over the VRM's and other components. It's because the CPU HSF is no longer pulling the air across them any more.

That could be one reason why. Of course that all depends on where that actual sensor is really located.... is it really monitoring Socket temps or is it monitoring something close to it.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 27, 2013)

i felt the back plate and it was red hot, so maybe its something more external tbh im not 100% sure.

however at higher voltages these temps are epic! really need to sort it all out, make it cleaner, get some proper airflow back in and upgrade from there


----------



## RCoon (Jun 27, 2013)

d1nky said:


> i felt the back plate and it was red hot, so maybe its something more external tbh im not 100% sure.
> 
> however at higher voltages these temps are epic! really need to sort it all out, make it cleaner, get some proper airflow back in and upgrade from there



I had a friend down in Newark who had the CM Stryker case, and he had pretty high socket temps on his 8150, so he strapped a slimline 80mm fan to the back of the socket where his cable management was, and it really seemed to help.
I'd like to believe that your case has really good airflow, it certainly cant be a lack of that, as you have a good quality corsair fan on every single mounting area. You probably need direct airflow across the socket, front or rear.

Got hold of a jigsaw from work, going to take it to the 780 shroud later  I have a feeling I'll need to remove the plastic window from it too, I've never taken it to bits before, so I'm hoping it does come off seperately.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 27, 2013)

ah man i wish you good luck! i get paid friday and got to be real careful not to follow suite and end up with a massive water project lol yours will look pretty damn good tho! 

before i did have a fan on the back plate, was mountable to the old one. but this AMD one is shit and heat soaks like a bitch.

i am tempted to get a new case, but i have come to love this one and put a lot of effort into it. i did have the best air cooling/airflow possible for it, hence the benches lol

at least i got a weekend project now. ill be taking the angle grinder to it and drilling a few things!


oh and im keeping my distilled in the fridge from now on hahaha


----------



## RCoon (Jun 27, 2013)

d1nky said:


> ah man i wish you good luck! i get paid friday and got to be real careful not to follow suite and end up with a massive water project lol yours will look pretty damn good tho!
> 
> before i did have a fan on the back plate, was mountable to the old one. but this AMD one is shit and heat soaks like a apple.
> 
> ...



I never knew your case existed until your mod, and you make it look pretty awesome! When I first ran my server on an AM3 board with a stock 8350 cooler on a 1055t, the socket temps were insanely high, then when I used a CM Hyper 212 evo the temps were perfect, so I guess going watercooling solves everything but causes problems of its own.


----------



## radrok (Jun 27, 2013)

RCoon said:


> so I guess going watercooling solves everything but causes problems of its own.



Yeah you need to have a bit of airflow over your motherboard if you don't watercool voltage regulators and even if you do that a fan doesn't hurt anyway.



RCoon said:


> going to take it to the 780 shroud later I have a feeling I'll need to remove the plastic window from it too, I've never taken it to bits before, so I'm hoping it does come off seperately.



http://youtu.be/mtkU1mQvcRo?t=15m8s


----------



## RCoon (Jun 27, 2013)

radrok said:


> Yeah you need to have a bit of airflow over your motherboard if you don't watercool voltage regulators and even if you do that a fan doesn't hurt anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> http://youtu.be/mtkU1mQvcRo?t=15m8s



Hmm, will I be able to just remove the vapor chamber and keep the rest of the black heat shim across the VRM's on when I mount the universal cooler on? it looks like the GPU die is about 3mm below the surface of the black heat shim, and I'm not sure the cooler is small enough to fit within the square area of the mounting area. It might overlap, and in turn not make contact with the die.


----------



## radrok (Jun 27, 2013)

The Swiftech MCW82 fits for sure as the Heatkillers I have.

Other blocks I can't tell you, haven't tried them.

I'm fairly sure you can manage tho.






Oh also never buy Gainward/Palit :






I had to remove that sticker to get the cooler off


----------



## RCoon (Jun 27, 2013)

radrok said:


> The Swiftech MCW82 fits for sure as the Heatkillers I have.
> 
> Other blocks I can't tell you, haven't tried them.
> 
> ...



With any luck, I could just remove the GTX GEFORCE logo, and the tubing would fit through the whole it leaves without me having to hack away at the shroud.

I had 2 Gainward 570's two years ago, I feel the sticker pain


----------



## radrok (Jun 27, 2013)

Please don't hack the 780/Titan cooler, it doesn't deserve it 



RCoon said:


> I had 2 Gainward 570's two years ago, I feel the sticker pain



Yeah I've learnt my lesson.

Only Zotac for me from now on, my other cards have 5 years extended warranty and I can remove the cooler without any issue.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 27, 2013)

thats a pretty good video!

i keep getting paranoid my pump isnt working!

and ive got a torch next to me to check for leaks.

watercooling has doubled my hardware paranoia, i may need medication. and rehab to stop buying stuff, bank is nearly empty lol


----------



## RCoon (Jun 27, 2013)

d1nky said:


> thats a pretty good video!
> 
> i keep getting paranoid my pump isnt working!
> 
> ...



My pump is near silent, but touching the pipes you can feel the water pumping. I was suprised at how quiet it was. I have £140 left in my bank, and I only got paid 6 days ago, luckily all my bills are paid bar the mobile.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 27, 2013)

hahaha i know that feeling, paypal delayed all my outgoings and hit me at once... im not going to say how much. i get paid again tomorrow tho. 

has your other stuff arrived yet?

ive got an ever so slight kink in my outlet ive just noticed. temps seem to idle at 21-24*c and i havent seen above 40*c yet. so must be ok.


----------



## 20mmrain (Jun 27, 2013)

d1nky said:


> thats a pretty good video!
> 
> i keep getting paranoid my pump isnt working!
> 
> ...



Don't worry so much...  . One thing you can do to help is.... Download HWinfo64. If your pump has a 3 pin plug that can plug into the Motherboard..... plug it it in. Then set that 3-pin fan sensor on the motherboard with HWinfo64 to give a warning beep if the pump falls below a certain speed. This will give you a warning if the Pump has stopped.

You could also invest in a flow meter.... for a couple of bucks if you are really that worried about the pump failing.

Another suggestion is to play your games with OSD temp software enabled like EVGA Precision or MSI Afterburner. So if there is a problem you will be able to see it start happening. 

Also other components like VRM's and certain sensors rising in temps because of water cooling is not always something to worry about. VRM temps can be very high. VRM's are made to take such abuse. Just keep an eye on everything and make sure it doesn't get too out of control. And if you are really that worried add a fan.... you don't need VRM water cooling or anything like that.

You can also set your temp sensors for most of your components to give you warning beep if your temps get to high. Software and hardware companies make all types of products to help with exactly this. 
You could also try a duel pump setup too if also worried.

Last bud..... I have never had a pump die on me. Because I usually swap my pumps out every year to a year and half. This may be going overboard for most people. But this is what I have done to give me peace of mind. I am not suggesting you go this far.... it's just something I do for my self.


----------



## radrok (Jun 27, 2013)

Man what kind of pumps are you running?

Laings last more than 5years if properly cooled, Sansos and Iwakis last for more than a decade.

Changing pump every year makes no sense unless you use cheapos.

I use two serial pumps so I can have redundancy by the way.


----------



## 20mmrain (Jun 27, 2013)

radrok said:


> Man what kind of pumps are you running?
> 
> Laings last more than 5years if properly cooled, Sansos and Iwakis last for more than a decade.
> 
> ...



Did you read what I said????




> I am not suggesting you go this far.... it's just something I do for my self.



I am running 655-B's and no I don't suggest him doing this. And no I understand these pumps will last longer. I just do it.... because it gives me peace of mind. No they are not cheap pumps....  Also I add that I sell my pumps and use the money for a new one. It always keeps me in fresh components.

A better question maybe.... Now that I think of it??? Why did I even add that information.... it's not relevant.


----------



## radrok (Jun 27, 2013)

Yes I read that but to be honest the odds that both pumps fail at the same time are so small...

You could always set up an Aquaero that shuts down your system if detects a harsh decrease in flow rates. That's what I use together with dual pump.


----------



## RCoon (Jun 27, 2013)

20mmrain said:


> I am running 655-B's and no I don't suggest him doing this. And no I understand these pumps will last longer. I just do it.... because it gives me peace of mind. No they are not cheap pumps....  Also I add that I sell my pumps and use the money for a new one. It always keeps me in fresh components.



I always repaste my delid every 4 months for peace of mind, despite people telling me not to do so, but I have it in my mind that it will last longer that way 



d1nky said:


> hahaha i know that feeling, paypal delayed all my outgoings and hit me at once... im not going to say how much. i get paid again tomorrow tho.
> 
> has your other stuff arrived yet?
> 
> ive got an ever so slight kink in my outlet ive just noticed. temps seem to idle at 21-24*c and i havent seen above 40*c yet. so must be ok.



Paypal currently has £40 of mine in pending incoming payment, got to wait another 2 weeks to actually get my money from them.
My white LED's and cold light cathodes have arrived, gpu and extra junk is arriving between 2 and 4 today, though I have a feeling I'll have to spend time with my girlfriend instead of immediately putting together my loop tonight, but I'll get started at 8pm, got to drain the loop this time though.
Temps seems pretty awesome despite that kink, though to be fair with such a short loop it obviously hasnt affected the flow much.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 27, 2013)

i ripped out my cold cathodes, felt a bit of a clusterfuck with so much stuff in my case lol

i was seeing some girl but havent responded to her texts i been that busy with work and my pc hahaha ooops! i was up late trying to sort it all out. this weekend im locking myself away with my precious hahahah!

Rcoon if ya ever need a spare intel mount and that gimme a shout, mines not being used. 

this pump doesnt have a flow meter or anything like that, i was looking at water temp meter to plug in for a few quid. so i may look at a combined temp/flow meter if such a thing exists.

and a fan controller now i remember.... just counting down my wages ha!


----------



## RCoon (Jun 27, 2013)

Parcels arrived!
I await a text from my girlfriend saying she wont be back from work training until later tonight.
*crosses fingers*


----------



## d1nky (Jun 27, 2013)

RCoon said:


> Parcels arrived!
> I await a text from my girlfriend saying she wont be back from work training until later tonight.
> *crosses fingers*



hahaha!

edit: im going to be testing this beast out with some benches in a min. see if it can handle 1.55-1.6v and 5ghz +

before i used to get it to cut out from heat lol 

no likey no lighty......... let the heat see the sink!


----------



## RCoon (Jun 27, 2013)

CPU Temp went up about 5 degrees in idle, and about 3 degrees on load. GPU temps are GODLY


----------



## d1nky (Jun 27, 2013)

that looks awesome!

one query, what happened to the missus? its half-eight and youve done a couple hours work 

my new stuff is on the way, got to wait for my res and that but weekend is soon!


----------



## RCoon (Jun 27, 2013)

d1nky said:


> that looks awesome!
> 
> one query, what happened to the missus? its half-eight and youve done a couple hours work
> 
> my new stuff is on the way, got to wait for my res and that but weekend is soon!



Like i said, work training late. I've been working on this since 4.30pm and finished literally 20 minutes ago. Took me 4 hours 

Sadly the GTX cooler had to be removed as the black heat shim restricted the water block, so I've ordered some Alpenfoen VRAM and VRM heat sinks to glue onto the memory and VRM's which are currently bare, and it makes me paranoid. That wont arrive until Saturday though /sadface. GPU temps are epic, but CPU temps are floating at 71 on full Prime 95 load. 34 degrees below throttling temp, so I guess they're pretty decent temps.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 27, 2013)

overall, total cost and everything. are you happy?!

im pretty pleased and im not even half way there yet. i havent seen one drop of water on my hardware, paranoia is going slowly, its quiet and feels safer than wrestling with a tower heatsink and fans. 

i finish at half-five maybe six, tired dirty and hungry. so havent got much time for anything!

still contemplating a new case, but if i did id probably want new stuff for it lol unless my dad wants to swap his xigmatek midgard....


----------



## RCoon (Jun 27, 2013)

Overall total cost:
kit - £140
2 litres of white mayhem - £30
extra tubing - £12
GPU block - £40
Extra 120 rad - £30
extra barb fittings - £9
alpefoen VRM and VRAM coolers - £12

Total cost of around £275 with a few pennies or pounds either side.
I was honestly not convinced of the cost effectiveness of watercooling, it was actually your idea of getting it that gave me a nudge to give in to curiosity. Honestly I expected it to cost more and give worse results. It was hard as hell this first time round, but to anyone thinking of doing watercooling and thinking it's expensive - you can cool just your CPU *epically* for £145.
I think the added GPU cooling is where the best results are found, but its also costly.

All in all, totally worth it.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 27, 2013)

i been contemplating water for ages, since ive been on this forum. i saw the same negatives as you, worried about water and electric but now im a changed person lol

that gpu block for £40 may convince me to get some water on my card. 

cant wait to fire out some benches, but itll mean some serious tweaking as ive pushed the limits already. 

and look we've got our own watercool thread


----------



## RCoon (Jun 27, 2013)

d1nky said:


> i been contemplating water for ages, since ive been on this forum. i saw the same negatives as you, worried about water and electric but now im a changed person lol
> 
> that gpu block for £40 may convince me to get some water on my card.
> 
> ...



They're universal, so I'm certain it will fit your card too, you might even get lucky and be able to keep whatever VRAM and VRM cooling you have on there already and not have to buy heatsinks. Adding a single EK 120 radiator just seems to have altogether transformed the temperature of the GPU.
I guess this thread would be ideal for newcomers to the watercooling scene, and prove that retards like me can do watercooling without leakage!


----------



## radrok (Jun 27, 2013)

You can also buy Heatkiller universals that can be outfitted with VRM module.


----------



## erocker (Jun 27, 2013)

radrok said:


> You can also buy Heatkiller universals that can be outfitted with VRM module.
> http://shop.watercool.de/WebRoot/Sa...D/8CBB/0A0C/05E7/6D16/HK_GPU-X_Core_60DIY.jpg
> http://www.coolingtechnique.com/img...LER_microSW-X_40_DIY_e_60_DIY/microSWX_11.jpg



That is very cool.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 27, 2013)

RCoon said:


> and prove that retards like me AND YOU can do watercooling without leakage



fixed.


that heatkiller may be the thing im looking for, damn you watercooling! total outlay may come to the price of an extra card lol but id have to buy two just in case, fittings, hose, id want another 240 rad, means more sleeving. - may do it actually!


what else do we add to this thread to make it more informational?! (i was thinking cleavage for some reason lol) 

think, that in a few years time or possibly ten years time. a noob watercooler may be looking for infos on the net, come across this thread and NO cleavage!


----------



## TheoneandonlyMrK (Jun 27, 2013)

RCoon said:


> Like i said, work training late. I've been working on this since 4.30pm and finished literally 20 minutes ago. Took me 4 hours
> 
> Sadly the GTX cooler had to be removed as the black heat shim restricted the water block, so I've ordered some Alpenfoen VRAM and VRM heat sinks to glue onto the memory and VRM's which are currently bare, and it makes me paranoid. That wont arrive until Saturday though /sadface. GPU temps are epic, but CPU temps are floating at 71 on full Prime 95 load. 34 degrees below throttling temp, so I guess they're pretty decent temps.



Nice end result. Looks niice.


----------



## Norton (Jun 27, 2013)

Those setups both look great guys!!! -

I set mine up with the dual rads like yours rcoon and I'm loving the temps on the gpu/cpu 
*in my case I was lucky enough to fit the rear rad inside though...

Only thing I want to do now is make it better.... which is the main reason why I put the side panel back on and put the rig back to work


----------



## d1nky (Jun 27, 2013)

^^ im falling for the white build!

rog colour scheme has been overdone so much its a cliche lol

i cant wait to get mine looking pretty again. lol my single push fan is on by one screw!


----------



## RCoon (Jun 27, 2013)

d1nky said:


> ^^ im falling for the white build!
> 
> rog colour scheme has been overdone so much its a cliche lol
> 
> i cant wait to get mine looking pretty again. lol my single push fan is on by one screw!



Thanks everyone for the nice comments.
I had a ROG motherboard, the V Formula for my 8350, but that went to my brother. Problem with white builds is the motherboards are always a problem, as you can see mine is black and blue. The only motherboards that are mainly black are the MPower (with yellow) and the ASRock ones, which have weird colours on the VRM sinks.
Would have been cool to mount the 120 rad inside, but I really wanted dual fans on it to handle the extra load.
Also that heatkiller with the little VRM addon is SO AWESOME.
I wont put my 275 on water because it barely touches 40 degrees when loaded with Physx.
I dont think I'll touch the watercooling for a long time now, the only thing I'm always looking to do is add more white, specifically the motherboard.


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Jun 27, 2013)

radrok said:


> You can also buy Heatkiller universals that can be outfitted with VRM module.
> http://shop.watercool.de/WebRoot/Sa...D/8CBB/0A0C/05E7/6D16/HK_GPU-X_Core_60DIY.jpg
> http://www.coolingtechnique.com/img...LER_microSW-X_40_DIY_e_60_DIY/microSWX_11.jpg



That is the sweetest GPU block I have ever seen.


----------



## Nordic (Jun 27, 2013)

tigger said:


> That is the sweetest GPU block I have ever seen.



Their full version blocks pretty cool too. I have one. I like it.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 27, 2013)

ya know that xspc plate on the cpu mount, well it fell off my intel one. maybe paint that white?

dont know if ya up for new fans but corsairs got white rings, i know ya said mobo but apart from painting the heatsinks, its a tough one for sure!

oh btw ive got white monsoons coming


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Jun 27, 2013)

RCoon said:


> Thanks everyone for the nice comments.
> I had a ROG motherboard, the V Formula for my 8350, but that went to my brother. Problem with white builds is the motherboards are always a problem, as you can see mine is black and blue. The only motherboards that are mainly black are the MPower (with yellow) and the ASRock ones, which have weird colours on the VRM sinks.
> Would have been cool to mount the 120 rad inside, but I really wanted dual fans on it to handle the extra load.
> Also that heatkiller with the little VRM addon is SO AWESOME.
> ...



The MSI GD65 Gaming is near enough all black.


----------



## RCoon (Jun 27, 2013)

Yeah I'm tempted to go for 4 corsair white ring'd fans, even though the current H100 fans are double the pressure in H2O.
The new GD65 looks cool but its essentially switching what I have in blue for red.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 27, 2013)

does the crosshair come with that hotwire for graphics (asus 7970)?

if you can change the rings on the corsair h100s ill send a bunch of rings. about 6 or glue em to ya fans


----------



## RCoon (Jun 27, 2013)

d1nky said:


> does the crosshair come with that hotwire for graphics (asus 7970)?
> 
> if you can change the rings on the corsair h100s ill send a bunch of rings. about 6 or glue em to ya fans



Yeah the H100s are just generic crappy fans with 7.7 pressure compared to the corsair SP's with 3.7. I'll buy some Corsairs soon I think, in the meantime I guess I'll keep an eye out for an EVGA board or something, as they look all black:


----------



## d1nky (Jun 27, 2013)

i wish i could put the rings on either side of the fan. when you see the back of them they look crap and arent worth the cash.

i spent £66 on the things lol


----------



## RCoon (Jun 28, 2013)

Can anyone note any serious differences between temperatures when you have a radiator after a component rather than before? 
I've got my loop pumpres>cpu>240>gpu>120>pumpres


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Jun 28, 2013)

RCoon said:


> Can anyone note any serious differences between temperatures when you have a radiator after a component rather than before?
> I've got my loop pumpres>cpu>240>gpu>120>pumpres



That seems fine to me, probs the normal way to do that kind of loop I'd say. it'd be a bit pointless haveing 240>120 or cpu>gpu so I'd say thats fine. I'd probs go 240>cpu>120>gpu>pumpres.


----------



## RCoon (Jun 28, 2013)

tigger said:


> That seems fine to me, probs the normal way to do that kind of loop I'd say. it'd be a bit pointless haveing 240>120 or cpu>gpu so I'd say thats fine. I'd probs go 240>cpu>120>gpu>pumpres.



A guide I read somewhere mentioned 1-2 degree temperature improvements when having a radiator before a component, it said having a radiator after was fine and would make very little difference.


----------



## radrok (Jun 28, 2013)

The best performance setup you could have is rad->component->rad->component etc.

It's not advised tho because you would need to compromise in order to make that kind of arrangement.

I tested it and I can tell you you can appreciate 1-2c lower temperatures on components for the first minutes before the loop water temperature equalizes, after that it's like having component->component->rad->rad.

Yes I'm a watercooling madman


----------



## RCoon (Jun 28, 2013)

radrok said:


> The best performance setup you could have is rad->component->rad->component etc.
> 
> It's not advised tho because you would need to compromise in order to make that kind of arrangement.
> 
> ...



Yeah I did assume that eventually the water temp would equalise across the loop. I dont think I can be bothered to drain and take it to bits to rearrange the loop again xD I'll save that for the future when bigger rads and better pumps take my fancy. FAR in the future I hope.


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Jun 28, 2013)

I always used to do rad>block>rad>block in my loops. I understand about the water temp equilibrium, so I guess it's kind of a psychological thing, and it does not really matter.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 28, 2013)

ive got rad to block set up, and was told it strains the pump pushing water through the rad first.

i took that bit of advice and filed it in the trash lol.


my new stuff has arrived


----------



## RCoon (Jun 28, 2013)

d1nky said:


> ive got rad to block set up, and was told it strains the pump pushing water through the rad first.
> 
> i took that bit of advice and filed it in the trash lol.
> 
> ...



uuuuuuu shiny red and white, that sounds like a cool colour combo...
I look forward to seeing your PC when you're done cannibalising holes for things to fit


----------



## Sinzia (Jun 28, 2013)

RCoon said:


> Can anyone note any serious differences between temperatures when you have a radiator after a component rather than before?
> I've got my loop pumpres>cpu>240>gpu>120>pumpres



After a while you'll heat soak the rads, and everything will even out. It won't matter, really.


----------



## Irony (Jun 28, 2013)

d1nky said:


> ive got rad to block set up, and was told it strains the pump pushing water through the rad first.
> 
> i took that bit of advice and filed it in the trash lol.
> 
> ...



Ya I don't think it makes a difference whats first as far as strain on the pump. It's having to push water through alll of it regardless of which component comes first. Mines Pump>360 rad>cpu>gpu. I'd like to have another rad, after a couple hours of BF3 it was almost 40c water, that's kinda higher than I would like

I got 3 corsair SP120s Pushing when I installed it, then I put 3 more AF120s pulling later that I had on the side originally. In this case it fits perfectly with push pull, it comes down to like 1/2 in above the mobo.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 28, 2013)

im absolutely shattered from work and gym... so anything will wait till tomorrow.

i chose the white fittings because my board has white clips all over it and white blades on a certain fan. (my fingers were dirty when i picked them up lol shouldnt of done that!)

i kind of guessed the logic of the pump doing the same regardless. i may even forget the cylinder res depending on how this mod goes. 

and monsoon ya leg ends.... '' dont be a tool '' hahahaa

boys and girls....switching from air to water, make sure you pay plenty of attention to airflow. my vrms have never gotten so hot and the only real change is the aegir gone. and im a bit worried about the rad sucking in the hot air from the vrms once a fan is located above.


----------



## Knight091 (Jun 28, 2013)

radrok said:


> The best performance setup you could have is rad->component->rad->component etc.
> 
> It's not advised tho because you would need to compromise in order to make that kind of arrangement.
> 
> ...



I am thinking of getting real pipes and bending them rather than using tubing. What are your thoughts on that?


----------



## Durvelle27 (Jun 28, 2013)

Since i got a bigger case i'm also planning to go water cooling. So i will follow this thread and see how yours go


----------



## Irony (Jun 28, 2013)

d1nky said:


> boys and girls....switching from air to water, make sure you pay plenty of attention to airflow. my vrms have never gotten so hot and the only real change is the aegir gone. and im a bit worried about the rad sucking in the hot air from the vrms once a fan is located above.



Ya, i forgot about that. I was benching with the side off right after i got my water all done, and after a few minutes it was like failing in ibt and 3dmark physics constantly. So i put my finger on the heatsink by the cpu block and i think i burned my finger, it was bloody hot. kinda scared me. I put a big fan right on it and then it passed the bench fine lol. With the side panel on its pretty much fine at higher voltages i sometimes point a fan on it anyway


----------



## radrok (Jun 28, 2013)

Yeah the main reason I also watercool the motherboard is the insane VRM temps when you overclock past a certain point...
Even though my motherboard is watercooled there are some VRM on the backside which are not watercooled and they are smoking hot.






On the far left of the motherboard you can see that backplate, when I push 1.5v through the VRM the area becomes so hot you can feel it even without touching it.



Knight091 said:


> I am thinking of getting real pipes and bending them rather than using tubing. What are your thoughts on that?



I'm not a fan of that cause you would most likely need to compromise on fittings look because you'll need to use either push fit or ferrule nut compressions.

You could use bitspower SLI connectors but that isn't safe...


----------



## Knight091 (Jun 28, 2013)

radrok said:


> Yeah the main reason I also watercool the motherboard is the insane VRM temps when you overclock past a certain point...
> Even though my motherboard is watercooled there are some VRM on the backside which are not watercooled and they are smoking hot.
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/f/fa/500x1000px-LL-facbd6e5_P1010942.jpeg
> ...



Ya true but I think it looks so much better if done well. I am just waiting on my next pay check to get my case mod things then my water cooling parts.


----------



## niko084 (Jun 29, 2013)

Few things to consider that I didn't see through at least a few pages (Didn't read all of them)

Make sure your res drain is above your pump, otherwise you will have a seriously fun time trying to make it work. Always plan a fill and draining method, less you be stuck in a nightmare of a built system that needs either. Try to make sure the water entering your pump isn't hot, most pumps don't like hot water and it will cause them to fail. A big res goes a long ways, I find that tubes look nice but they can be a pain to work with. Depending on your block, compression fittings might not fit without adapters to spread them apart.

Few things on fans...

Double thick rads are generally low FPI which means less pressure required, don't try to push the air through, suck it through, it works better alone. I generally find it's still slightly beneficial to do a push/pull on these rads. Personally I try to avoid using low FPI rads (Especially if you are going to push/pull) as they are simply not as capable, I instead go for high FPI I like 30, but 25 will do. I generally use AC F12 fans on my rads in a push/pull, they are quiet and perform well.


----------



## RCoon (Jun 29, 2013)

niko084 said:


> Few things to consider that I didn't see through at least a few pages (Didn't read all of them)
> 
> Make sure your res drain is above your pump, otherwise you will have a seriously fun time trying to make it work. Always plan a fill and draining method, less you be stuck in a nightmare of a built system that needs either. Try to make sure the water entering your pump isn't hot, most pumps don't like hot water and it will cause them to fail. A big res goes a long ways, I find that tubes look nice but they can be a pain to work with. Depending on your block, compression fittings might not fit without adapters to spread them apart.
> 
> ...



Pretty much got all that covered, 2 push fans on the raystorm RS240 and push pull fans on the low FPI extra thick EK rad. As for water temps, they are doing pretty good at the moment for the pump. Also I can drain using gravity at its best by just unplugging my lowest res/pump tube which is quite easy in my case, all the water drains out within 2 minutes or so and creates zero splash mess  I dont think there's anything I'd change drastically except maybe an extra pump in my loop, as temperatures are excellent for the GPU, and fairly average for the CPU (considering the stupid voltage). If anything, I'd probably replace my CPU altogether at some point because its just a very poorly binned chip, requiring abnormal amounts of volts.
Its almost as if it was overvolted sky high before I bought it and had mega vdroop even though it was new. I set it to 1.32v in bios, and it droops down to 1.302 sometimes.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 29, 2013)




----------



## d1nky (Jun 29, 2013)

where to start, last night i got bored at about 8 so thought id rip it all apart. fastest tear down ive ever done, plus draining the res was a bit fiddly. had to take the cpu mount off then pull it all forwards to use the bottom plug. had to do it speedy because of rain and the dusk.

took it outside cut a slot for the rad and fittings, had to cut bits off the top plastic case. so the rad is now not screwed in but held tightly by the plastic case. 

drilled a few holes for a fan mount on the back of the board. covered screw head in glue incase of contact - but i did measure and test the gap, all is ok.

i didnt want to remove that fan in the bay so had to tilt it for the tubes to just pass, although there is slight tension against tube and fan.

these monsoon fittings are incredible, i was testing them on a bit of hose. put the fitting on tightened it up. connected it to a mains pipe and no leaks with a lot of pressure. even tried ripping the hose out of the fitting and it didnt even move.

i know im a noob to fittings, but they seem incredible. great quality and well worth the money.

temps are even better and the ambient is double it was when i tried it out first time.

anyone thinking of watercooling for the first time, i strongly suggest a pipecutter. i get perfectly straight cuts and even tried with scissors and couldnt get them that perfect.


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Jun 29, 2013)

A stanley blade is pretty good for straight cuts.


----------



## RCoon (Jun 29, 2013)

I used a jigsaw, borrowed it from work (the grammar school girls wont exactly mind me using their tools). Heatsinks came today, so I've literally just put them on:














One of these days I'll invest in a better camera other than my damn phone...


----------



## d1nky (Jun 29, 2013)

rcoon where ya been, ive been waiting to show ya my rig but ya was no where!! ya robbing tools from girls - priceless!

didnt realise your gpu block looked like that, its a nice little block!

how come the vrm mosfets are scattered everywhere? is that a nvidia thing or brand thing? 

depending on temps, i strongly suggest a fan for them. and make sure they dont drop off, some glues have a tendency to do that before they bake in.

btw nice big toe... and ya timberlands holding up ya card lol


----------



## Durvelle27 (Jun 29, 2013)

d1nky said:


> rcoon where ya been, ive been waiting to show ya my rig but ya was no where!! Ya robbing tools from girls - priceless!
> 
> Didnt realise your gpu block looked like that, its a nice little block!
> 
> ...


----------



## RCoon (Jun 29, 2013)

Durvelle27 said:


>



Hey man I saved up to buy those boots for a few months, and they were the perfect height to get my GPU level so I could apply the sinks straight 
I also regularly use the hardware stuff in the school, they have furnaces, kilns, loads of hardware testing kit, and my all time favourite, araldite 
Grammar schools have too much money, and not enough time to use the stuff they buy.
Plus the girls love to ask questions, and it didnt take them long to nickname me Mr Tumnus, and take every opportunity they get to call me that. I even managed to get a few of them to enter into the computer game making competition 2 weeks ago, and they won it!

Oh yeah, VRMS, no they're not scattered everywhere, I just had a few spare sinks, so I applied them to every chip I deemed worthy of having pointless passive cooling.
Temps remain to be epic.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 29, 2013)

durvelle seems to be laughing a lot tonight.......


----------



## RCoon (Jun 29, 2013)

d1nky said:


> durvelle seems to be laughing a lot tonight.......



Also. Sweet. Ass. Rig, MoFo. I had no doubt you would make the damn rad fit whether it wanted to or not


----------



## d1nky (Jun 29, 2013)

RCoon said:


> Also. Sweet. Ass. Rig, MoFo. I had no doubt you would make the damn rad fit whether it wanted to or not



yayyyyy thats what i been waiting for lol i think you need to focus on TPU a bit more than work or relationships 

i dont think id be able to get a full loop in here, id have to cut the bay corners out, have hose running pass my cards, already hose touching the vrm sink (vrm cooling lol)

i feel like we should shake hands to congratualte each other on watercooling... but theres some cool lil pic for that - 


now to find my max stable oc!


----------



## radrok (Jun 29, 2013)

d1nky said:


> how come the vrm mosfets are scattered everywhere? is that a nvidia thing or brand thing?









This is where VRM cooling is needed for GK110 

6+2 power delivery and it sucks.

When nvidia can cut on components they do it


----------



## d1nky (Jun 29, 2013)

does look weak tbh. 

well not all hardware is perfect i suppose. unlike my 7950 lol


----------



## Durvelle27 (Jun 29, 2013)

d1nky said:


> durvelle seems to be laughing a lot tonight.......



ik bud lol


What's the price tag for that watercooling gear


----------



## radrok (Jun 29, 2013)

My 6990s had beastly volterra VRMs, that's how you do a power delivery section on an high end card!


----------



## d1nky (Jun 29, 2013)

£140 xspc kit
£30 monsoon fittings
£10 1/2 red hose

£180 total or bit more including postage and what i paid for the sp120s

nearly a new card 

@radrok i just googled some vrm senctions and saw. massive chokes!


----------



## Durvelle27 (Jun 29, 2013)

d1nky said:


> £140 xspc kit
> £30 monsoon fittings
> £10 1/2 red hose
> 
> ...



so $300 USD

Guess i'm going water cooling when i get ny new card and CPU


----------



## d1nky (Jun 29, 2013)

i pay 20% tax, UK prices are higher on average compared to U.S

so maybe a bit less!


its definitely worth it, i went from a similar heatsink to that hyper. and i cant get this thing to sweat and its quite hot here atm. i may have to buy some corsiar AF140s if they sell them for better airflow across the vrm and socket. suppose thats what happens when ya do things unplanned lol


or does anyone want 4 sp120 quiets for 2 performance ones?!


----------



## Durvelle27 (Jun 29, 2013)

d1nky said:


> i pay 20% tax, UK prices are higher on average compared to U.S
> 
> so maybe a bit less!
> 
> ...



I need it as my Hyper 212+ is hendering my OCs


----------



## d1nky (Jun 29, 2013)

i been writing on here too much to get my highest yet!

i can say from doing this swap so far. voltages required are about the same, but temps are about 15-20*c below what it would of been and i only stress tested when it was cold with the aegir.


max oc i could get about 4.6-4.7ghz stable before i had to exit prime at 60*c +

tonight/tomorrow i will tell you my max and how long prime stable


----------



## Durvelle27 (Jun 29, 2013)

d1nky said:


> i been writing on here too much to get my highest yet!
> 
> i can say from doing this swap so far. voltages required are about the same, but temps are about 15-20*c below what it would of been and i only stress tested when it was cold with the aegir.
> 
> ...



Max i can get is 4.5GHz @1.39v OCCT 1hr 30mins 62c


----------



## d1nky (Jun 30, 2013)

ok my pumps just started making a loud whirring sound!


----------



## radrok (Jun 30, 2013)

It could be caused by bad decoupling or some bubbles leaving the radiator


----------



## d1nky (Jun 30, 2013)

i dont understand, theres no bubbles and the sound is a vibrating sound, medium/high pitched and annoying! the pump/res is vibrating way more than before and its louder than the fans!

temps are exactly the same as before the noise! 

FFS! this has seriously effed me off! everything was perfect, just finding my stable 5ghz and a reboot and the noise like a train starts!


seriously annoyed!


----------



## Brusfantomet (Jun 30, 2013)

your pump or something close to the pump is in contact with something that makes that sound, try holding the pump to check if the extra dampening helps, i would also check the hoses to and from the pump.


----------



## d1nky (Jun 30, 2013)

checked and checked even pulled it out and it still vibrates and makes a med/high pitch whirring sound.... its louder than the fans at 100%


if i put my ear to the res/pump it hurts my ear! and sounds similar to an electric generator!


----------



## Knight091 (Jul 1, 2013)

d1nky said:


> i dont understand, theres no bubbles and the sound is a vibrating sound, medium/high pitched and annoying! the pump/res is vibrating way more than before and its louder than the fans!
> 
> temps are exactly the same as before the noise!
> 
> ...



You have to let the loop work bubbles etc out. I had the same problem once and just left it going and a few days later no noise.


----------



## d1nky (Jul 1, 2013)

im leaving it until tomorrow, i dont think its bubbles as it was silent then just started making noise. ive sent a complaint and RMA request. its friggin buggin and im paranoid itll fail as its failed to start once when new. 

its definitely not a air sound its like a high pitched whirrr, i even stopped all the fans.. grabbed the bastard hard and all sorts! its properly vibrating the res!


----------



## Irony (Jul 1, 2013)

Did you ever run it dry?


----------



## d1nky (Jul 1, 2013)

nope..... always filled the res/pump to the top, turned it on for 3 seconds, let the hose fill up then added more water!

is there any way i could hit the temp limits... my cpu hasnt been over 45*c

ill see what the retailer says tomorrow, hopefully i can swap it or something without ripping my rig to bits


----------



## Irony (Jul 1, 2013)

Hmm. Well im a noob at w/c but it seems like it could be something serious. Like a broken impeller or something.


----------



## springs113 (Jul 1, 2013)

Pump could be faulty, watch yor temps closely.  Ihad a h100 make similar noises to what you're saying.


----------



## d1nky (Jul 1, 2013)

OCUk responded straight away and are allowing me to replace the pump only which is absolutely brilliant! 

but means i wont have my rig together for a bit  

i tried everything as a last resort but it still sounds like a mechanical humming bird lol


----------



## RCoon (Jul 1, 2013)

d1nky said:


> OCUk responded straight away and are allowing me to replace the pump only which is absolutely brilliant!
> 
> but means i wont have my rig together for a bit
> 
> i tried everything as a last resort but it still sounds like a mechanical humming bird lol



Damn son, back when my H80 was giving out the Pump sounding like it was gargling a garbage can 2 hours before it died entirely. OCUK RMA's are getting better, they used to be awful. You'll get another pack of Haribo, I got a total of 3 last week 

Yesterday I woke up and was gaming from 10am until about 12midnight (got Dead Pool, completed it), my radiators were still amazingly cool to the touch, and yet my rooms ambient temperature went up to about 26-28 degrees  This PC turns into a space heater after half a day, but the inside of my tower is super cold! GPU remained at a steady 33 degrees while loaded all day, and CPU didnt touch 70 degrees, stuck around the 63 mark, almost half the throttling temperature. Running great.

It's become my family's custom now, to wander upstairs, and then come downstairs and say "Coon, something in your PC is leaking" just to piss me off and go check


----------



## d1nky (Jul 1, 2013)

im gutted! it was just getting perfect, a reboot and i thought a fan was vibrating or something. done all the checks and it was the pump. temps are still the same as well hahaha

i may even see if theyd allow me to give some cash for a better pump/res or something. 

they seem to be pretty good, respond straight away and are pretty flexible. most would want everything back but its agreed just pump/res.

this is my first second RMA this year so far lol

on a positive i do like their lil haribos!


----------



## RCoon (Jul 1, 2013)

d1nky said:


> im gutted! it was just getting perfect, a reboot and i thought a fan was vibrating or something. done all the checks and it was the pump. temps are still the same as well hahaha
> 
> i may even see if theyd allow me to give some cash for a better pump/res or something.
> 
> ...



I really like these Raystorm Res/Pumps, but I'm pretty sure there is a better model up from what came with the kit, might be worth looking into that, but mine seems quite capable for now


----------



## d1nky (Jul 1, 2013)

http://youtu.be/SJUhlRoBL8M

nuff said!


----------



## d1nky (Jul 6, 2013)

is there any way that water temps will the maximum 50*c water temperature?!

with 25*c ambients and about 50*c fully loaded cpu.

im just seeing if itll be worth buying a temp sensor.


----------



## radrok (Jul 6, 2013)

CPU load temp does not equal water temp and never will, heat transfer between CPU->waterblock->water is not that efficient


----------



## Irony (Jul 8, 2013)

If you didn't have a rad it would get close to CPU max temp, but that's the whole purpose of a rad is to keep that from happening. As long as there is differential between heat source and ambient temp the rad will remove heat from the water. Eventually the water will stop rising in temperature to where there is equilibrium between heat added and heat removed, but the water will still be cooler than CPU. Even with a tiny rad it would be a little cooler than CPU. The more heat your radiator can remove the lower this temperature will be, to a point a couple degrees above ambient.


----------



## d1nky (Jul 9, 2013)

i want a drain port/tube.

ill use the tube and barb that came with kit, but what goes on the end to seal the tube?

im looking at a sealing plug, ball valve or what esle is there?


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Jul 9, 2013)

d1nky said:


> i want a drain port/tube.
> 
> ill use the tube and barb that came with kit, but what goes on the end to seal the tube?
> 
> im looking at a sealing plug, ball valve or what esle is there?



You want something like this Dink-

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14595/ex-tub-1034/Bitspower_G14_Mini_Valve_-_Black_Sparkle_BP-MVV-BK.html?tl=g30c101s460&id=YdWaRc66


----------



## d1nky (Jul 9, 2013)

LOL theyre £16 here!

im trying to find something cheaper than the bitspower product. but thats OCUK for ya lol

ill keep looking.

and thanks!

how about this?

http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Koolance-Coolant-Fill-Port--Drain-Valve-Inc-10mm-Barb_1673.html


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Jul 9, 2013)

d1nky said:


> LOL theyre £16 here!
> 
> im trying to find something cheaper than the bitspower product. but thats OCUK for ya lol
> 
> ...



That's ok but my problem with them is, you unscrew the plug and the water starts pissing out, which is ok if you already have a bowl under it.

I would use a valve like i linked with a barb on the end, if you want to drain it, put a piece of tube on the end of the barb, put the tube in a bowl and open the valve.

Shame they are so expensive though.


----------



## Vario (Jul 9, 2013)

d1nky, that looks awesome.  Hope you get it working! Also, I love the color. What kind of paint did you use?  Spraycan? HVLP? I've been thinking about painting my 300v2.  I got some nasty looking areas from dremeling out my drive cage.


----------



## d1nky (Jul 9, 2013)

i painted this after i done the modding, wasnt really planned out. i went with the flow (LOL) 

oh it works, just the pump is making a noise that it wasnt before. 

paint i used was plasti-coat spray in a can. i didnt even do the whole prime/sand/paint/sand/paint/lacquer thing. 

and thanks! i even had a guy put my rig on his FB business page.


----------



## Vario (Jul 9, 2013)

d1nky said:


> i painted this after i done the modding, wasnt really planned out. i went with the flow (LOL)
> 
> oh it works, just the pump is making a noise that it wasnt before.
> 
> ...



Is that paint holding up well? Sorry for derail but it looks really good and I love how you coordinated EVERYTHING including your new watercooling.


----------



## d1nky (Jul 9, 2013)

haha ya say i co-ordinated it like i knew what i was doing!

the paints held well, only places it has scratched is where ive been stupid and dragged it on the floor or something. 

this plasti-coat has a great finish, i sprayed it on quite thick. no drips etc and it buffs up well!

dont worry about the derail!


----------



## d1nky (Jul 10, 2013)

well my pump noise has quietened a bit.

i emailed OCUK and they said 

_Dear d1nky,

 thank you for your webnote.

 The pumps take a while to settle if its producing a noise which is like a hard drive then this is about normal for a pump.

 Regards,
_

i did see an EK one for about £70 so if this gets worse again ill send it back for EK res/pump. and tbh i cant be arsed draining it, especially in this heat lol


----------



## Knight091 (Jul 15, 2013)

How is the pump and water cooling going?


----------



## d1nky (Jul 15, 2013)

its going great, ive been running a few benches and its allowing me to bench up to about 5.4ghz with adequate volts and keep temps below 60*c

its crazy when you upgrade one thing ya notice another component isnt as good to keep up, my mobo switches off when theres too much for it lol

the pump has settled, OCuk know about the noise and said its normal. havent had a single leak, and now im thinking on a drain port and a cylinder res. not sure where i can fit it all tho lol

hows yours coming along?


----------



## Durvelle27 (Jul 15, 2013)

d1nky said:


> its going great, ive been running a few benches and its allowing me to bench up to about 5.4ghz with adequate volts and keep temps below 60*c
> 
> its crazy when you upgrade one thing ya notice another component isnt as good to keep up, my mobo switches off when theres too much for it lol
> 
> ...



Any updated pics


----------



## d1nky (Jul 15, 2013)

just these ones from before, its still the same


----------



## Durvelle27 (Jul 15, 2013)

d1nky said:


> just these ones from before, its still the same
> 
> http://imageshack.us/a/img849/8613/30ul.jpg
> http://imageshack.us/a/img268/3461/m5qf.jpg
> ...



That's one sexy set up.


----------



## d1nky (Jul 15, 2013)

Durvelle27 said:


> That's one sexy set up.



to me its just become mundane lol

im always getting pm'd asking for advice, which is great considering its my first mod.

im even on peoples FB modding pages and asked about doing jobs.

i truly feel flattered and honoured, but because ive looked at it so much im like meh. but do love it!


----------



## Knight091 (Jul 15, 2013)

d1nky said:


> its going great, ive been running a few benches and its allowing me to bench up to about 5.4ghz with adequate volts and keep temps below 60*c
> 
> its crazy when you upgrade one thing ya notice another component isnt as good to keep up, my mobo switches off when theres too much for it lol
> 
> ...



Ya that always is the case with computers. That is why I try to get all new parts when I upgrade my computer. I know everything is as even as it can get. Told you them pump would stop making noises. Well my computer is down and will be down for some time. I had the money saved up then had to buy a new washer and dryer. My wife had to have the 1,000 USD each so that was over 2 grand GONE in a flash. So now I am back at ground 0 with my savings in that account. I thought about hand washing cloths but ya that would not go over well with the wife.

I got the fans and parts to start my case mod. Just waiting on the PVC panel to come in. I got one 24x48" panel for the mod. I went with PVC because it is alot faster to shape and cut rather than acrylic. It is also lighter and cheaper as well.


----------



## Durvelle27 (Jul 15, 2013)

d1nky said:


> to me its just become mundane lol
> 
> im always getting pm'd asking for advice, which is great considering its my first mod.
> 
> ...


----------



## de.das.dude (Jul 15, 2013)

so i went to the hardware stores for pluming, and i asked for some fittings and it was as if i asked  them to solve e =mc2 XD


----------



## Durvelle27 (Jul 15, 2013)

de.das.dude said:


> so i went to the hardware stores for pluming, and i asked for some fittings and it was as if i asked  them to solve e =mc2 XD



Bwahahahaha.


----------



## Irony (Jul 15, 2013)

Should do a ghetto water loop with a car radiator lol.


----------



## Knight091 (Jul 15, 2013)

de.das.dude said:


> so i went to the hardware stores for pluming, and i asked for some fittings and it was as if i asked  them to solve e =mc2 XD



HAHAHAH...HAHAHA I bet they looked at you like you were from Mars. I went into Home Depot last week to get my case modding things and asked a guy for help. He came over and helped me. Right off the bat I knew more about what I wanted than he did and he looked at me like I was from Mars as well. He happened to be the ENTIRE East coast district manager for Home Depot. I got done asking for things not knows who he was. After I stopped he looked at me and asked if I had any interest running a Home Depot store.... I looked at him like he was from Mars. He quickly told me who he was. Sigh

I have my masters in 3D and game design not running at Home Depot store.... Unless he wanted to give me 100k a year then sure I would run his store. Just know they would have water cooled computers and other tec in the store. Kind of like if the Borg took over Home Depot... Resistance is futile you will get that wood and that paint and be happy with it....ROFL


----------



## d1nky (Jul 15, 2013)

LOL i asked a plumber about water pump noise, and he said what kind of pump is it, i replied a very small water pump for a computer.

he looked at me eyebrows like the rock, and was like WTF! i explained about watercooling, and he asked why would you put water near electric. i explain more and more.

and hes like ive been a plumber all my life and still dont know what the fuck ya on about lol

he was all mystified and thought i was weird.....

hahahahaaaaaaaaaa


----------



## Durvelle27 (Jul 15, 2013)

d1nky said:


> LOL i asked a plumber about water pump noise, and he said what kind of pump is it, i replied a very small water pump for a computer.
> 
> he looked at me eyebrows like the rock, and was like WTF! i explained about watercooling, and he asked why would you put water near electric. i explain more and more.
> 
> ...



 

You screwing with the helpless bwahahaha


----------



## Knight091 (Jul 15, 2013)

d1nky said:


> LOL i asked a plumber about water pump noise, and he said what kind of pump is it, i replied a very small water pump for a computer.
> 
> he looked at me eyebrows like the rock, and was like WTF! i explained about watercooling, and he asked why would you put water near electric. i explain more and more.
> 
> ...




Ya the guy at Home Depot did the same thing. I had the head of pluming and other main guys standing around. All they do is homes and office buildings. They asked me the same thing about water cooling and computers. I told them... think of it as how a car engine is cooled. You have a pump, a radiator, and lines. Works the same way but just on a smaller scale. I think they thought I worked for NASA or something at how they were looking at me.


----------



## d1nky (Jul 15, 2013)

Knight091 said:


> I think they thought I worked for NASA or something at how they were looking at me



HAHAHA in the end i was like google it!


----------



## Knight091 (Jul 15, 2013)

d1nky said:


> HAHAHA in the end i was like google it!




The project I am working on now is working with NASA and their new space craft....That is if our GREAT President does not kill it from spending cuts. Think of the space craft as a new up to date Apollo rocket and craft.... ya kind of left that out when telling them about water cooling and computers...lol

The space shuttle had some cool cooling. I loved how they never had to take water up with them as that would cost 45,000 USD a pound. The engines made the water with hydrogen fuel cells. By the time they made it to space they had water for the shuttle or the space station. No need for water filters etc. Now why cant we use that in cars etc.... o right it is always about MONEY.....sigh. We went to the moon and back with that tec but we cant use it in a car....BS...


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## d1nky (Jul 15, 2013)

sounds like you got a wicked job!

i remember seeing about space projects getting cut, its a shame that something humanity created (currency) strangles humnaities progress! defies belief!

yea its always about money and we created it........ 

i think we're about 50 years of anything remotely like cars on hydrogen, unless someone rich decides to take the plunge.


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## Knight091 (Jul 15, 2013)

d1nky said:


> sounds like you got a wicked job!
> 
> i remember seeing about space projects getting cut, its a shame that something humanity created (currency) strangles humnaities progress! defies belief!
> 
> ...



Yes I guess I do have a dream job. They do have test cars using it.  We are explores and have so much to offer but we are battling over stupid crap and things that get us no place.
I always thought if history did not have the dark ages what would life be like today. We are getting NO PLACE. As long as money tells us how we live our lives we will be stuck.  

This always makes me want to go into space.


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## d1nky (Jul 15, 2013)

cool!


on subject, inlet and outlet on cpu block, which is best to have on top?

they was side by side but im changing it and forgot. i think its outlet top?


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## TheoneandonlyMrK (Jul 15, 2013)

d1nky said:


> cool!
> 
> 
> on subject, inlet and outlet on cpu block, which is best to have on top?
> ...



Top but not much difference either way  unlike full cover mobos and gfxs which tend to work out best well thought out regarding direction so you cool chip before mossfets but there's not always much to be gained there either.


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## d1nky (Jul 15, 2013)

huh? i just wanted to know which port to have on top for my cpu block.... northeners 

out or in?


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## RCoon (Jul 15, 2013)

d1nky said:


> huh? i just wanted to know which port to have on top for my cpu block.... northeners
> 
> out or in?



Doesnt matter in the slightest. Inlet top would be easier to pour the water in and down out the outlet. Outlet top would be harder for the pump to push the water upwards, but then it would fall from a higher point. Probably zero temp difference


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## radrok (Jul 15, 2013)

Some waterblocks require you to use their designed inlet because of the design.

Mine doesn't perform if used backwards.

If you physically mean rotating the inlet top well then that doesn't change anything


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## d1nky (Jul 16, 2013)

well i moved it all around, shortened some of the hose and it seems to be running better?!

i dont know maybe i had a poor contact when i seated it but temps are better, im even closer to ambient than i was and well stupid amounts of vcore still dont break 60*c

5*c away from ambient idle

well at load (stock im great) and when its in uber mode its even better!

(uber mode - http://valid.canardpc.com/2865370)


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