# Impossible to remove screws on MoBo



## Absoguar (Sep 15, 2015)

So I bought a new CPU fan today since my old one is starting to kick the bucket and unfortunately I've encountered a problem. I took off one 'bracket' holding the fan relatively easily, but the lower bracket simply will not budge. I've taken the other side panel off to see if maybe there are nuts on them but no, they're just stuck.

Is there any way I can do this without resorting to buying more tools? I'm a student and I already forked out £50 for the fan and a set of screwdrivers.


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## Kursah (Sep 15, 2015)

Can you provide more information and maybe some pictures? (use techpowerup.org for pictures, will provide the links you can post to display them properly)

Some CPU heatsink brackets use screws, some use push pins...different CPU generations and brands (AMD, Intel, Skylake, Haswell, Bulldozer...etc..etc) have different methods...some are very similar. The more information you can provide, the better quality responses you will receive. Also go into UserCP and fill out System Specs. Then you don't have to necessarily post your system info if System Specs stays current.

Welcome to TPU and hopefully we can get you sorted.

Also with the heatsink, it uses a thermal paste to the CPU, you may need to heat it up with a heat gun/hair dryer (get it very hot), and then slightly twist it off...that is once you sort out the screws you're trying to remove.


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## Absoguar (Sep 15, 2015)

http://img.techpowerup.org/150915/1442337836143352164656.jpg

This is as good a picture as I can take right now. I'm not sure what other information I can give you other than that I have an AMD processor.


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## Kursah (Sep 15, 2015)

Why do you need to remove that bracket? I'm not an AMD guy much anymore, but I thought those brackets stayed on the board and you used them with provided adapters for different coolers? I could likely be wrong here. Are those phillips screws reverse thread? I don't recall seeing many reverse thread screws on mainboards that are consumer grade tho...Have you tried right and left turn on them? And again, are you sure you need to remove them?

Well the information as to what socket that is, what board that is can help as well. Take a look at my system specs to see how detailed one could get. Not saying you need to be that detailed, but the more you can provide, the better you know about your system and the better chance of getting better help you will be provided.


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## Bansaku (Sep 15, 2015)

As a former AMD guy, those brackets stay on the motherboard in 99.99% of all cases. The only time I can see the brackets being removed is if you want to go with an AIO water cooler, otherwise the aftermarket heatsink should come with the appropriate mounting hardware; Double check the compatibility of the heatsink.


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## Absoguar (Sep 15, 2015)

I'm 99% sure I need to remove them since I bought a Coolermaster Hyper 212 which comes with its own brackets.

Also it's an AM3+ socket.


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## Kursah (Sep 15, 2015)

Do the instructions state to remove them? If so...then try heating them up and turning both ways. Odds are there's some thread lock applied making them uber tough to unscrew... Also make sure the screwdriver you use fits well so you don't strip them out. I usually use a P2 Phillips for most PC duties with great luck. Its a Snap-On brand screw driver from my mechanic days...a little expensive to buy for just PC jobs but does the trick.


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## Absoguar (Sep 15, 2015)

Yeah I definitely need to remove them, since the new cooler just won't fit on the stock brackets. How should I go about heating them up? Like I said I don't really have access to any tools other than a set of screwdrivers right now.


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## Jborg (Sep 15, 2015)

Yes, you need to remove those brackets on AM3+ boards. I remember doing it on my 212 EVO on my FX 8350.

Honestly it may not be much help to you, but perhaps just try pressing down harder while your trying to unscrew, I don't really know what else to suggest. I would reccomend something to loosen it up, but were not exaclty working on an automobile


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## Norton (Sep 15, 2015)

@Kursah that bracket does need to be removed to install the CM 212 cooler the OP bought.

@ OP From the pic it looks like you are using a screwdriver that's too small or worn out- you need an undamaged #2 Phillips screwdriver- bear down and turn *counter-clockwise* and those screws should loosen right up. Note- those screws use a fine machine thread so all you need is about half a turn to loosen them up.


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## Absoguar (Sep 15, 2015)

Norton said:


> @Kursah that bracket does need to be removed to install the CM 212 cooler the OP bought.
> 
> @ OP From the pic it looks like you are using a screwdriver that's too small or worn out- you need an undamaged #2 Phillips screwdriver- bear down and turn counter-clockwise and those screws should loosen right up. Note- those screws are machine thread and all you need is about half a turn to loosen them up.



Gah. The biggest one I have is a #1 screwdriver and it's quite literally brand new. The thing is that it took out the first bracket perfectly fine while these screws don't even budge.


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## Kursah (Sep 15, 2015)

A larger phillips will provide the surface area to better apply torque to the screw head without stripping it out as quickly as one too small. If its that new, return it and exchange.


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## Norton (Sep 15, 2015)

Absoguar said:


> Gah. The biggest one I have is a #1 screwdriver and it's quite literally brand new. The thing is that it took out the first bracket perfectly fine while these screws don't even budge.



That #1 screwdriver is too small and tearing up the screw... and the screwdriver. Recommend using the right one before the project needs a drill and significantly more swearing


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## natr0n (Sep 15, 2015)

drop of oil in around the screws perhaps


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## CrackerJack (Sep 15, 2015)

Bansaku said:


> As a former AMD guy, those brackets stay on the motherboard in 99.99% of all cases. The only time I can see the brackets being removed is if you want to go with an AIO water cooler, otherwise the aftermarket heatsink should come with the appropriate mounting hardware; Double check the compatibility of the heatsink.



Stock Cooler and a handful of other coolers will use the stock bracket...

Coolermaster Hyper 212 does not use the stock board brackets


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## Absoguar (Sep 15, 2015)

Okay I borrowed a #2 screwdriver from my housemate and...No dice. They're not moving even slightly.


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## Ferrum Master (Sep 15, 2015)

Use soldering gun and heat them up.  Then try.


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## Absoguar (Sep 15, 2015)

Absoguar said:


> ... Like I said I don't really have access to any tools other than a set of screwdrivers right now.





Ferrum Master said:


> Use soldering gun and heat them up.  Then try.


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## natr0n (Sep 15, 2015)

try a thick flathead/slot screwdriver and use a qtip of oil (whatever you have on hand) around the outside area of screw


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## CrackerJack (Sep 15, 2015)

Absoguar said:


> Okay I borrowed a #2 screwdriver from my housemate and...No dice. They're not moving even slightly.



Can you take a clearer picture of the screw heads? And maybe possible one of the back


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## Ferrum Master (Sep 15, 2015)

No tools, quit immediately. Bring it to a man with... tools. Only harm could be done otherwise.


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## Absoguar (Sep 15, 2015)

CrackerJack said:


> Can you take a clearer picture of the screw heads? And maybe possible one of the back



http://img.techpowerup.org/150915/1442340572780-2029668957.jpg My phone is crap so that's as good as it's gonna get with the screwheads.


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## 5DVX0130 (Sep 15, 2015)

Well all you need is a good screwdriver. 6mm with a long shaft should do the job.
They are easy to remove, unless you are using a to small/short screwdriver. Maybe post a picture of your screwdrivers.

But if you still can’t remove it then you could:
1.  borrow a power drill/screw gun and the right size bit and try it with that ,
2.  remove the motherboard from the case and try to unscrew it on a solid surface,
3.  ask a friend who visits a gym to try his luck.


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## CAPSLOCKSTUCK (Sep 15, 2015)

1. put the screws back that you already removed and tighten them back up  this might remove some of the stress.
2. try the awkward screws again
3. slacken all 4 equally, the same way you would when tightening them.


edit....you could also try tightening the awkward ones as this will crack any adhesive that may have been used.


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## Ikaruga (Sep 15, 2015)

you need to use a rubber band like this:


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## Absoguar (Sep 15, 2015)

CAPSLOCKSTUCK said:


> 1. put the screws back that you already removed and tighten them back up  this might remove some of the stress.
> 2. try the awkward screws again
> 3. slacken all 4 equally, the same way you would when tightening them.
> 
> ...



Tried that, no luck.



Ikaruga said:


> you need to use a rubber band like this:



Funnily enough I don't even have a god damn rubber band. You'd think there'd be one lying around.


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## Ikaruga (Sep 15, 2015)

Absoguar said:


> Funnily enough I don't even have a god damn rubber band. You'd think there'd be one lying around.


Ask for one in some shop next time you go outside, I don't think it would be a good idea to damage the screws any more, because you may end up in a situation when the only solutions will be to drill through the screws or drill off the head of the screws, which are delicate and risky procedures.


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## Absoguar (Sep 15, 2015)

Ikaruga said:


> Ask for one in some shop next time you go outside, I don't think it would be a good idea to damage the screws any more, because you may end up in a situation when the only solutions will be to drill through the screws or drill off the head of the screws, which are delicate and risky procedures.



I'll try and hunt something down within the next two days, for now I managed to put the old fan back in.


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## newtekie1 (Sep 15, 2015)

The only thing I can think of, as to why they are so hard to remove, is they might have been cross threaded at the factory.  Which means they are going to be a total bitch to get out, especially with the heads already damaged.

It is probably going to take quite a bit of force if that is the case.


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## CrackerJack (Sep 16, 2015)

The only thing I can think of, is if you have a pair of pillars. Try turning the screw from the backside of the board (be gently and don't bend the threads). Just enough to break them loose.


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## Steevo (Sep 16, 2015)

Get serrated phillips bit. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UZEUPE/?tag=tec06d-20


Win at life.


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## OneMoar (Sep 16, 2015)

how do you even strip those wtf
its not like they are torqued to 150 FT/lbs
I have never had a board bracket take anything more then the slightest application of force to remove


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## Ikaruga (Sep 16, 2015)

OneMoar said:


> how do you even strip those wtf
> its not like they are torqued to 150 FT/lbs
> I have never had a board bracket take anything more then the slightest application of force to remove


It happens with a lot of boards, I definitely met more then 50 in my life.


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## Iceni (Sep 16, 2015)

As was already stated, Put the 2 screws you have taken out back in, and tighten them up, Then undo all 4 at the same time, Work in opposite corners and work 1/2 a turn on each screw.

The threads don't look cross threaded, and there is no threadlock on the baseplate, So all it can be is tension caused by the back plate been sat at an angle.


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## Jetster (Sep 16, 2015)

You crack me up. Take the bracket off already. Just make sure you have the correct tool. I've ran into stuburn screws just use force and pressure. It will come right out just take the board out of the case. Do it right


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## Toothless (Sep 16, 2015)

Make sure you're applying force to the other side of the board, in the same spot or we'll have to get some popcorn and sit along for the ride on "how to repair a cracked motherboard."


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## Absoguar (Sep 16, 2015)

Bought a new screwdriver.
Got one screw from the other bracket out.
The other screw is stripped and is going nowhere.


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## Hugis (Sep 16, 2015)

So you have got 3 out? Lift up the bracket in the opposite corner a little and see if you can turn it counter clockwise and see if that breaks its grip.


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## Jetster (Sep 16, 2015)

well you need to find something that will bite on it. a file handle, knife, flat head driver.


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## Absoguar (Sep 16, 2015)

Hugis said:


> So you have got 3 out? Lift up the bracket in the opposite corner a little and see if you can turn it counter clockwise and see if that breaks its grip.



I can lift the bracket up the tiniest bit but it's not budging, and I don't think I should be wedging anything under it.



Jetster said:


> well you need to find something that will bite on it. a file handle, knife, flat head driver.



Tried all my knives but no dice. Everything else I do not have.


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## CAPSLOCKSTUCK (Sep 16, 2015)

if you have got 3 out there should be some wriggle room, apply some pressure using a flathead screw driver as a lever. You should be able to twist the bracket and undo the screw with it.


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## Absoguar (Sep 16, 2015)

CAPSLOCKSTUCK said:


> if you have got 3 out there should be some wriggle room, apply some pressure using a flathead screw driver as a lever. You should be able to twist the bracket and undo the screw with it.


Except this is the lower bracket so unless I lift it up enough to snap it I'll have to go through the CPU


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## CAPSLOCKSTUCK (Sep 16, 2015)

so you cant apply pressure to both sides at the same time, you need a third hand perhaps.

This is doable, 

Can you take a pic of what is left of the screw head.?


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## Absoguar (Sep 16, 2015)

CAPSLOCKSTUCK said:


> so you cant apply pressure to both sides at the same time, you need a third hand perhaps.
> 
> This is doable,
> 
> Can you take a pic of what is left of the screw head.?



http://img.techpowerup.org/150916/1442419817210492204280.jpg

Best that I can take.


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## Jetster (Sep 16, 2015)

Twist the bracket you will ruin the board


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## OneMoar (Sep 16, 2015)

the hyper212 will not mount without all 4 screws
here is what you do get your self a 1/4 inch nut epoxy or superglue it to the head of the screw and allow time to cure
get yourself a 1/4 inch socket and ratchet and then use that to take it off of there
and I am sorry
how you managed to screw this up so bad is beyond belief you are turning it the right way I assume ? righty tighty lefty loosey


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## Jetster (Sep 16, 2015)

Put it back together. Return the HS

If you cant get this far your go to break it next


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## Absoguar (Sep 16, 2015)

OneMoar said:


> the hyper212 will not mount without all 4 screws
> here is what you do get your self a 1/4 inch nut epoxy or superglue it to the head of the screw and allow time to cure
> get yourself a 1/4 inch socket and ratchet and then use that to take it off of there
> and I am sorry
> how you managed to screw this up so bad is beyond belief you are turning it the right way I assume ? righty tighty lefty loosey


I'm not a complete idiot. The first two screws came out fine. The third took buying a new screwdriver, this last one seems to have already been stripped when I started working on it yesterday.


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## Absoguar (Sep 16, 2015)

OneMoar said:


> I am afraid there is too much evidence to the contrary here for me the believe that


Sure thing doc.


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## Hugis (Sep 16, 2015)

We are here to help, if you cant undo it now you will either have to do what onemoar suggested or go the drill route but i cant see that being an option.
I would put it back together and take the new hsf back.


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## CAPSLOCKSTUCK (Sep 16, 2015)

get a juniour hacksaw and cut a nice groove in the screw head, then you will get a nice big flat head screw driver in there, the bigger the better.
Hacksaws are cheap, take your time and you will do it. Be careful not to scratch anything and clean up all the filings that come off.


alternatively

give up.


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## dorsetknob (Sep 16, 2015)

CAPSLOCKSTUCK said:


> alternatively
> 
> give up.


Final option is to Pay some one else to do the job
There are times that when you cannot do the job yourself  you have to pay for it to be done


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## CAPSLOCKSTUCK (Sep 16, 2015)




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## DeathtoGnomes (Sep 16, 2015)

One of pics looked like one screw we inserted at an angle, if thats the case then:

If that bracket is plastic, you take an almost red hot (wood handle not plastic) pointed blade knife (or anything with a sharp pointy end) and very slowly melt the bracket by sticking the point right next to the screw head.  *Do not push hard*,  lightly push down, and be careful the knife doesnt slip and hit the motherboard.  Reheat knife as needed. You should be able to remove the bracket completely this way and use (needle-nose) pliers to remove the screw.  

If that bracket is aluminum, I doubt it tho, you will need to drill it out if you cant use the superglue/nut method previously suggested.

Safety first: use thick cloth gloves when handling the knife, patience wins the day.


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## OneMoar (Sep 16, 2015)

the amount of dangerous and just plain stupid ideas in this thread is astounding
slow down and think before doing something you will avoid 90% of your problems that way


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## lilhasselhoffer (Sep 16, 2015)

Let's review the thought process here, just for giggles.

A motherboard is laminated fiberglass layers with adhesive and copper traces sandwiched between some sort of masking coating.
Sharp knives, drills, heated tooling, etc... have the tendency to both damage delicate items (glass) and shatter delicate copper traces.
Chemicals are a fantastic idea, but with the demonstrated aptitude may well end up everywhere.
A screw driver that was too small was already used, egging out the cuts needed to turn a phillips head screw.



Now, let's figure this out together.
1) Use a buffer material between the screw head and screwdriver, like the rubber band mentioned earlier.
2) What is the thing screwed into?  I've seen more than one person turn a bolt and nut, without ever making sure the nut was secured.
3) What tools do you have access to?  If you strip a screw driver you're either using the wrong tools, cheap crap, or way too much force.  The dollar store set of small screwdrivers looks good on paper, but they're generally crap metal that either shatters or strips because it's extremely weak.  It may cost $20, but a good set of screwdrivers will last more than a decade and save you frustration.


In short, there's no magical screw extraction methodology.  You're working with glass and copper, so applying huge forces isn't an option.  If you can't do this seek some help.  A $10 charge will save you a $50 motherboard (or more, I'm assuming the lowest end cost for argument's sake).


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## Hugis (Sep 16, 2015)

You could also try blutak..... To fill out that borked head


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## Ferrum Master (Sep 16, 2015)

As I said... standart procedure is to heat up the darn screw so it expands and then cools down and becomes more loose. I do it daily!


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## Mindweaver (Sep 16, 2015)

That bracket is plastic. Try braking the bracket off and use a pair of pliers and take it off. I've done this before and the head of the screw is off the motherboard enough to grip it. It's tricky but that plastic is hard enough to crack and brake off by just using needle nose pliers or a pair of snips.

*EDIT: Don't let the pliers or snips hit the motherboard or you are screwed. Just do it about half way and it should just crack and brake.*


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## dorsetknob (Sep 16, 2015)

OneMoar said:


> you are also talking about somebody that apparently can barely operate a screw driver


and being advised by morons


Hugis said:


> You could also try blutak..... To fill out that borked head


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## Mindweaver (Sep 16, 2015)

dorsetknob said:


> and being advised by *moron*s



Hey I'm not a moron.. maybe a peon.. 
*
@Everybody - Let's tone it down a bit. Warning issued*


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## dorsetknob (Sep 16, 2015)

*@Mindweaver*

re read my post please my comment was not intended for you but the suggestion of filling screw head with blutak to help unscrew  was moronic  
blutak is sticky plasticene  how will that help remove said screw


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## Solaris17 (Sep 16, 2015)

Well if he has any type of technical aptitude (Assuming this is just a case of screw fucked from factory) does OP have a dremel with a cutting wheel he can use to slit the head and make it approachable via flathead? I do this regularly on old machines or stripped screws.


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## natr0n (Sep 16, 2015)

Mission Impossible : Screw Job


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## Mindweaver (Sep 16, 2015)

dorsetknob said:


> *@Mindweaver*
> 
> re read my post please my comment was not intended for you but the suggestion of filling screw head with blutak to help unscrew  was moronic
> blutak is sticky plasticene  how will that help remove said screw



I was only joking with you buddy. 

*Edit: But in the future let's not break rules and call people names. *


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## CAPSLOCKSTUCK (Sep 16, 2015)

Beaten by a screw?

whats the matter with you all ?

if the head rounded as easily as it apparently has, it is soft and consequently it will be easy to take the head off the screw if you cant cut a groove.

retry your different size flathead screwdrivers, you may have dug enough of the head to gain a bit of "bite"


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## thebluebumblebee (Sep 16, 2015)

Okay,
I see 2 choices.
First is to grab the bottom of the screw with a locking pliers like a Vise-Grip (I'd use one like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYD9A/?tag=tec06d-20) and turn it from that end - remember that you now have to turn it clock-wise.  That will ruin the screw and maybe the threads in the plate.  Once you've broken it loose, you might be able to use a screwdriver to finish removing it.
Secondly, get an "easy-out".  I have not used these, but I like what I see in the adds:  http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRL3WP4/?tag=tec06d-20
WARNING: This will create metal shavings that are very dangerous to your system.  Make sure you remove all of them.


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## thebluebumblebee (Sep 16, 2015)

For some reason, part of my previous post did not post.  My second option should go like this:
Secondly, get an "easy-out". I have not used these, but I like what I see in the adds: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRL3WP4/?tag=tec06d-20  If you use a driver handle, try not to wobble from side to side while drilling out the head.
WARNING: This will create metal shavings that are very dangerous to your system. Make sure you remove all of them.
Also, I don't think the slot advice you have gotten will work.  There's no real way to get to the screw.


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## Loosenut (Sep 16, 2015)

thebluebumblebee said:


> Okay,
> I see 2 choices.
> First is to grab the bottom of the screw with a locking pliers like a Vise-Grip (I'd use one like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYD9A/?tag=tec06d-20) and turn it from that end - remember that you now have to turn it clock-wise.  That will ruin the screw and maybe the threads in the plate.  Once you've broken it loose, you might be able to use a screwdriver to finish removing it.
> Secondly, get an "easy-out".  I have not used these, but I like what I see in the adds:  http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRL3WP4/?tag=tec06d-20
> WARNING: This will create metal shavings that are very dangerous to your system.  Make sure you remove all of them.



^The 2 best ideas so far. 

BTW @thebluebumblebee, we call them easy-outs too and they work great!


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## dorsetknob (Sep 16, 2015)

both your posts display in full from here it now looks like a Part double duplicate post


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## thebluebumblebee (Sep 16, 2015)

dorsetknob said:


> both your posts display in full from here it now looks like a Part double duplicate post


Actually, it screwed up again.  It won't let me fix it either.  What's up?  I've tried to fix it 3 times and my edits just vanish.


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## Norton (Sep 16, 2015)

thebluebumblebee said:


> Okay,
> I see 2 choices.
> First is to grab the bottom of the screw with a locking pliers like a Vise-Grip (I'd use one like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYD9A/?tag=tec06d-20) and turn it from that end - remember that you now have to turn it clock-wise.  That will ruin the screw and maybe the threads in the plate.  Once you've broken it loose, you might be able to use a screwdriver to finish removing it.
> Secondly, get an "easy-out".  I have not used these, but I like what I see in the adds:  http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRL3WP4/?tag=tec06d-20
> WARNING: This will create metal shavings that are very dangerous to your system.  Make sure you remove all of them.



Actually the screw really doesn't even have to come out ... popping the head off the screw with a drill will allow you to remove both pieces w/o too much trouble.

Note(s):
- use a quality bit made for this kind of work
- cleanup the shavings afterward

@thebluebumblebee thanks for that link though. I like those, they're definitely on my christmas list now


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## MIRTAZAPINE (Sep 16, 2015)

I used to fix old laptops or computers with stuck screw. It is pretty easy to strip screw even with the right screwdriver head. Some screws are being screwed in too tightly and overtime can be stuck solidly. It also does not help that screw head are not of good quality metal.

Stuck screw removing is a frustrating art to get right. Usually the first step I take when screw heads are stripped is to use a screwdriver with an oversize head to see if it grip and I would press down hard in the screw with full body weight and try to turn it. Be careful as not to slip! As it can damage other components. If that does not work.

It is time for pliers and cutter those plier types. Grap the screw with plier and try to unscrew it like you would remove bolt. Most probably it is hard to grip. Now use a the cutter to grab the screw and try to it. And also try cutting points to grip. I don't think I explained this well enough, I'll upload a picture later for explanation. I do meet a screw which is so tight that above could not work. I have a screw in an LCD screw stuck shut and not even the torque of pliers could get it free. I solved that my spraying wd40 though the screw gaps and it finally loosen. Wd40 would be needed if it the screw seems "cold-weld" tightly.


Edit : Since you got the third screw out can you twist the backplate out? And the plastic bracket counter clockwise? You would have to destroy that plastic to remove the screw though by doing that way.


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## Iceni (Sep 17, 2015)

It's for precisely this problem I own a set of reverse thread drill bits.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0002NYBJG/?tag=tec053-21

You use left handed ones so if they bite they loosen the screw rather than tightening it.


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## Ikaruga (Sep 17, 2015)

As I said earlier, use a rubber band to get a tight grip + combine that with what* Ferrum Master* suggested:





Ferrum Master said:


> standart procedure is to heat up the darn screw so it expands and then cools down and becomes more loose.


You don't need to buy expensive tools, just make sure you tighten the other 3 screws back before you start, it will work.


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## Jetster (Sep 17, 2015)

Guys I think the OP probably doesn't want any help anymore


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## Tatty_One (Sep 17, 2015)

Jetster said:


> Guys I think the OP probably doesn't want any help anymore


Thank god for that..... closed.


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