# New Build: Replacing Q6600



## magibeg (Dec 18, 2017)

*What is your intended use for this build? The more details the better.*
General use with some gaming and probably playing around with some VM's. I like to overbuild for what I need, I'm hoping to get a solid 5-8 years from the build with minimum changes but still like to experience what top end feels like initially.

*If gaming, what kind of performance are you looking for? (Screen resolution, framerate, game settings)*
Currently running a 24" 1920x1200 Dell IPS monitor. Going for 60fps max settings on anything I throw at it for the next 3 years or so before needing to start to turn down settings.

*What is your budget (ballpark is okay)?*
Soft cap of around 2K

*In what country are you purchasing your parts?*
Canada

*Post a draft of your potential build here (specific parts please)*

_I would like to point out I already own a Western Digital 2TB Black drive and already own the Fractal Design R5 case and Corsair ax760 PSU._

*CPU* 
Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor $489.99

*CPU Cooler  *
Noctua - NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler $79.95

*Motherboard    *
ASRock - Z370 Extreme4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard $229.00

*Memory *
Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $263.95

*Storage *
Samsung - 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $309.99

*Video Card  *
EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC Black Edition Video Card $949.99


*Case *_ 
Fractal Design - Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case $127.99_

_*Power Supply   *_
_Corsair - 760W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply $199.99_

*Operating System* 
Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit $116.75


*Total:    $2775.60*

Let me know where my follies are and if there is any value added I can get by making adjustments. I'm considering getting a 1080ti but i'm not sure if that would be a waste of money or not. They are significantly more expensive in Canada.

Edit -
Motherboard switched out for Asrock Extreme4
Changed out CPU cooler to Noctua
Changed GTX 1080 to a different brand
Changed to 500GB M2 Drive
Changed to 1080Ti


----------



## eidairaman1 (Dec 18, 2017)

Get a 2066 or TR4 setup


----------



## magibeg (Dec 18, 2017)

eidairaman1 said:


> Get a 2066 or TR4 setup



So you think I should go a HEDT route then?


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Dec 18, 2017)

magibeg said:


> So you think I should go a HEDT route then?



I do not. The rig is fine. Except id get a better cooler. 212 isnt enough for a 6 core chip imo. Id also consider an Asrock or MSI board. Asrock extreme4 is nice. Asus arent what they used to be.


----------



## magibeg (Dec 18, 2017)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> I do not. The rig is fine. Except id get a better cooler. 212 isnt enough for a 6 core chip imo. Id also consider an Asrock or MSI board. Asrock extreme4 is nice. Asus arent what they used to be.



I hadn't realized that Asus had fallen from grace. I'll go hunt for the Asrock mobo and make the change to the list. What cooler would you recommend?


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Dec 18, 2017)

magibeg said:


> I hadn't realized that Asus had fallen from grace. I'll go hunt for the Asrock mobo and make the change to the list. What cooler would you recommend?



Cryorig H7 i think is like $30 and its better than the 212. @crazyeyesreaper our cooler reviewer recommends it everytime i ask him for builds i do for other people. But if it were my build I would go with an Aio Like this 
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=2YM-0004-00014


----------



## magibeg (Dec 18, 2017)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Cryorig H7 i think is like $30 and its better than the 212. @crazyeyesreaper our cooler reviewer recommends it everytime i ask him for builds i do for other people. But if it were my build I would go with an Aio Like this
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=2YM-0004-00014



I admit I was kind of avoiding the AIO liquid coolers because I had a slight paranoia about points of failure (I know i know, not rational). It looks like the Cryorig H7 is about $45 here in Canada. Maybe I should cave and buy one of the corsair AIO's like the H100i


----------



## BarbaricSoul (Dec 18, 2017)

magibeg said:


> What cooler would you recommend?





magibeg said:


> I admit I was kind of avoiding the AIO liquid coolers because I had a slight paranoia about points of failure (I know i know, not rational). It looks like the Cryorig H7 is about $45 here in Canada. Maybe I should cave and buy one of the corsair AIO's like the H100i



It's not irrational at all. Shit happens. And to chance $2200 worth of hardware over a AIO cooler is not the smartest thing IMHO. Pumps die, seals fail, and while this may be uncommon, it's not unheard of. Personally, I tried AIO, and after my Corsair AIO unit's pump died in the first year, I went back to air cooling and never looked back. A high-end air cooler performs just as good as the AIO coolers. As for a inexpensive recommendation, I've been really impressed with Deep Cool's heatsinks, specifically the Assassin and Lucifer models. I know, WTF is with the names, but trust me, they are very good coolers.

Here's TPU's review of the Lucifer- https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Deepcool/Lucifer/

And where you can buy it- https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00RZ8DFDY/?tag=pcp0f-20


----------



## Hockster (Dec 18, 2017)

I've been running a Corsair H100 on a system for about 7 years, it's running perfectly. My current desktop is using an H115i that's been in two builds over 4ish years, also running perfectly fine.


----------



## BarbaricSoul (Dec 18, 2017)

Hockster said:


> I've been running a Corsair H100 on a system for about 7 years, it's running perfectly. My current desktop is using an H115i that's been in two builds over 4ish years, also running perfectly fine.



Like I said



> while this may be uncommon, it's not unheard of



and considering high-end air coolers match, or atleast come within 2-3' C of what the best AIO does, it's also a unnecessary risk with +$2200 worth of computer hardware


----------



## Hockster (Dec 18, 2017)

Anything can fail. I don't like decisions based on "what if".


----------



## BarbaricSoul (Dec 18, 2017)

air coolers can't (well except for maybe a fan, but I always run push/pull so......)

but really, does it matter when I recommended a $55 air cooler that is very close in performance to the $139 H115 you recommended. I like to base my computer hardware decisions on price/performance levels.


----------



## magibeg (Dec 18, 2017)

I know it's probably a minimal risk but the lucifer looks really big and heavy. I assume it won't damage the motherboard/won't interfere with ram/will fit in a fractal design r5


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Dec 18, 2017)

magibeg said:


> I know it's probably a minimal risk but the lucifer looks really big and heavy. I assume it won't damage the motherboard/won't interfere with ram/will fit in a fractal design r5



If your worried sbout size and clearance jist get the AIO i linked. The Cooler Master Masterliquid. Doesnt use asetek pump like Corsairs which is a plus.


----------



## eidairaman1 (Dec 18, 2017)

magibeg said:


> So you think I should go a HEDT route then?



yes if you intend on going 8+ years


----------



## Frick (Dec 18, 2017)

Don't get an OEM windows license, is about all I have to say aboot it.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Dec 18, 2017)

eidairaman1 said:


> yes if you intend on going 8+ years



Give more legit reasons to go hedt, instead of one liners of zero substance. Would probably help the guy out a lot more.


----------



## eidairaman1 (Dec 18, 2017)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Give more legit reasons to go hedt, instead of one liners of zero substance. Would probably help the guy out a lot more.



so why do people put xeons in machines, why not skip the msdt that doesnt last nearly as long as a HEDT when it comes to overall performance and expansionability?

PS I do the one liners to piss people like you off, bet anything if he was asking about 2066 vs TR4 you'd want him to go 2066.


----------



## Zyll Goliat (Dec 18, 2017)

Kudos to your Old Q6600....EXCELLENT CPU for it´s time....I used one (2008-2014)before,he did the job well.........


----------



## adulaamin (Dec 18, 2017)

BarbaricSoul said:


> It's not irrational at all. Shit happens. And to chance $2200 worth of hardware over a AIO cooler is not the smartest thing IMHO. Pumps die, *seals fail*, and while this may be uncommon, it's not unheard of. Personally, I tried AIO, and after my Corsair AIO unit's pump died in the first year, I went back to air cooling and never looked back. A high-end air cooler performs just as good as the AIO coolers. As for a inexpensive recommendation, I've been really impressed with Deep Cool's heatsinks, specifically the Assassin and Lucifer models. I know, WTF is with the names, but trust me, they are very good coolers.
> 
> Here's TPU's review of the Lucifer- https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Deepcool/Lucifer/
> 
> And where you can buy it- https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00RZ8DFDY/?tag=pcp0f-20



That happened to my Antec Kuhler 920. It took the board and cpu with it. After that I went back to air and I'm currently using a Noctua D15s. It's big but it does the job. 

@ OP: How about changing the m.2 ssd to a regular one. I don't know if it's cheaper there but where I'm from I can get double the size fora reasonable extra amount.


----------



## BarbaricSoul (Dec 18, 2017)

magibeg said:


> I know it's probably a minimal risk but the lucifer looks really big and heavy. I assume it won't damage the motherboard/won't interfere with ram/will fit in a fractal design r5



I've been using the Assassin for a few years now on my 3930k system and I had it in my previous 2600k system. No issues. As far as the RAM is concerned, just don't get a set of RAM with a big heat spreader on it. The heat spreader on RAM is worthless anyway and is only for looks. Pick a set like the Corsair Vengeance LPX RAM, like you have selected already.


----------



## Frick (Dec 18, 2017)

eidairaman1 said:


> so why do people put xeons in machines, why not skip the msdt that doesnt last nearly as long as a HEDT when it comes to overall performance and expansionability?
> 
> PS I do the one liners to piss people like you off, bet anything if he was asking about 2066 vs TR4 you'd want him to go 2066.



The reason to go HEDT in this context is essentially the same reason why he got the quad core in an age of dual cores: future proofing. That is what MxPhenom wanted you to say, I think. 

Personally I'd go octo Ryzen 2, but that 8700K is really nice too, and is a better overclocker so it'll last longer that way.


----------



## Vya Domus (Dec 18, 2017)

Wait to see how Zen+ turns out. With more cores and threads and potentially higher clocks than previous it might be a better choice for your use case.

500$ for that 8700K is ridiculously expensive in my opinion. At that point your heading into TR HEDT territory.

EDIT: Noticed you're from Canada , that's still expensive for what you need , for VMs you need as many cores as possible.


----------



## Ramo1203 (Dec 18, 2017)

Things I would consider:
- The cooler is a bit meh, try and get something a tad better. If you don't wanna use watercooling, get something like a Noctua.
- The MSI GTX 1080 Duke is not as premium as the Gaming X and I haven't seen reviews of it so I choose something else.

Other than that, the rest looks nice!


----------



## Filip Georgievski (Dec 18, 2017)

The Q6600 is still a beast for its price today second hand.
Paired with a GTX 960,970 or RX470, 480 and 8 or 16GB DDR3 Ram (if mobo supports it) would still get you decent performance for less money.

The PC you plan to put together is dope.
I would not change anything from the list right now.


----------



## newtekie1 (Dec 18, 2017)

Frick said:


> The reason to go HEDT in this context is essentially the same reason why he got the quad core in an age of dual cores: future proofing. That is what MxPhenom wanted you to say, I think.
> 
> Personally I'd go octo Ryzen 2, but that 8700K is really nice too, and is a better overclocker so it'll last longer that way.



I'm not sure that HEDT is futureproofing when it comes to gaming, which sounds like the OP's primary purpose.  The extra cores beyond the 6 of the 8700K won't help with gaming, but the lower clock speeds that the HEDT chips tend to reach will hurt in gaming.


----------



## magibeg (Dec 18, 2017)

Frick said:


> Don't get an OEM windows license, is about all I have to say aboot it.



Just curious, what is the reason to not get an OEM windows license? It's what I have typically bought in the past.



BarbaricSoul said:


> I've been using the Assassin for a few years now on my 3930k system and I had it in my previous 2600k system. No issues. As far as the RAM is concerned, just don't get a set of RAM with a big heat spreader on it. The heat spreader on RAM is worthless anyway and is only for looks. Pick a set like the Corsair Vengeance LPX RAM, like you have selected already.



Part of the reason why I was asking is because I've heard of situations where large coolers will straight block 2 ram slots. I don't have plans to buy ram with large heatsinks but i am also focused on buying whatever ram happens to be on sale when i hit the purchase button (within reasonable spec of course) and sometimes it's ram with larger heat spreaders.



Vya Domus said:


> Wait to see how Zen+ turns out. With more cores and threads and potentially higher clocks than previous it might be a better choice for your use case.
> 
> 500$ for that 8700K is ridiculously expensive in my opinion. At that point your heading into TR HEDT territory.
> 
> EDIT: Noticed you're from Canada , that's still expensive for what you need , for VMs you need as many cores as possible.



Well I figured that the 8700k was a way to not lose any single core gaming performance while also giving me the future insurance of the extra cores. Ryzen with 2 more cores seems to be about even with the 8700k in multicore but the 8700k crushes it in single threaded applications. The cost difference between the Ryzen 1700 and 8700k is about $100. Going the TR route makes it significantly more expensive.



Filip Georgievski said:


> The Q6600 is still a beast for its price today second hand.
> Paired with a GTX 960,970 or RX470, 480 and 8 or 16GB DDR3 Ram (if mobo supports it) would still get you decent performance for less money.
> 
> The PC you plan to put together is dope.
> I would not change anything from the list right now.



Unfortunately the q6600 is actually dead now 

She gave me a good run but now it's time to move forward.



newtekie1 said:


> I'm not sure that HEDT is futureproofing when it comes to gaming, which sounds like the OP's primary purpose.  The extra cores beyond the 6 of the 8700K won't help with gaming, but the lower clock speeds that the HEDT chips tend to reach will hurt in gaming.



I'm a pretty multi-purpose user, so my goal is to minimize sacrifices. I think the cost might be too high and the single core sacrifice too great to justify it. I figured the 8700K was a good mix between work station and gaming performance.


----------



## newtekie1 (Dec 18, 2017)

magibeg said:


> Just curious, what is the reason to not get an OEM windows license? It's what I have typically bought in the past.



If you plan to keep your system half as long as you kept the Q6600, there really isn't a reason not to go with a OEM license.  You aren't supposed to be able to transfer the license if you change out the motherboard, but if enough time has passed since the last time you activated it, you can change out the motherboard.



magibeg said:


> Part of the reason why I was asking is because I've heard of situations where large coolers will straight block 2 ram slots. I don't have plans to buy ram with large heatsinks but i am also focused on buying whatever ram happens to be on sale when i hit the purchase button (within reasonable spec of course) and sometimes it's ram with larger heat spreaders.



That is a valid concern.  If you are worried, then go with one of Noctua's single tower designs, like the NH-U12S.  It still gives a significant improvement over the Hyper 212, and will fit pretty much anywhere the Hyper 212 will as well.



magibeg said:


> I'm a pretty multi-purpose user, so my goal is to minimize sacrifices. I think the cost might be too high and the single core sacrifice too great to justify it. I figured the 8700K was a good mix between work station and gaming performance.



And it definitely is.  I know I'm loving mine.


----------



## eidairaman1 (Dec 18, 2017)

Zyll Goliath said:


> Kudos to your Old Q6600....EXCELLENT CPU for it´s time....I used one (2008-2014)before,he did the job well.........



That's when Intel felt they had to look to the past for architecture (Pentium Pro/Pentium 3 which were P6 arch). Core 2 was as great as the A64 when it launched.


----------



## magibeg (Dec 18, 2017)

newtekie1 said:


> If you plan to keep your system half as long as you kept the Q6600, there really isn't a reason not to go with a OEM license.  You aren't supposed to be able to transfer the license if you change out the motherboard, but if enough time has passed since the last time you activated it, you can change out the motherboard.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Ok I updated the first post with the Noctua cooler.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Dec 18, 2017)

BarbaricSoul said:


> I've been using the Assassin for a few years now on my 3930k system and I had it in my previous 2600k system. No issues. As far as the RAM is concerned, just don't get a set of RAM with a big heat spreader on it. The heat spreader on RAM is worthless anyway and is only for looks. Pick a set like the Corsair Vengeance LPX RAM, like you have selected already.



That is why i recommended the cryorig h7 for cooler. It has zero clearence issues for memory, and its a fantastic cooler for the price.



Ramo1203 said:


> Things I would consider:
> - The cooler is a bit meh, try and get something a tad better. If you don't wanna use watercooling, get something like a Noctua.
> - The MSI GTX 1080 Duke is not as premium as the Gaming X and I haven't seen reviews of it so I choose something else.
> 
> Other than that, the rest looks nice!



It really doesnt matter what 1080 he gets. The Duke is a fine card. Its also an Asus card not MSi.


----------



## Frick (Dec 18, 2017)

magibeg said:


> Just curious, what is the reason to not get an OEM windows license? It's what I have typically bought in the past.



With Win10, the "normal" licenses are retail licenses, and at least where I live the OEM licenses cost as much as the normal ones.


----------



## notb (Dec 18, 2017)

magibeg said:


> Samsung - 960 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $169.99


Honestly, I went 250GB few months ago and I find it to be not enough. I was on a budget and couldn't afford something larger. You can. Think about it - especially if you're going for VMs.


> Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit $116.75


Check the differences between Windows 10 Home and Pro. You might want to get the latter.

Other than that, I think the setup is rather perfect. Have fun


----------



## magibeg (Dec 18, 2017)

notb said:


> Honestly, I went 250GB few months ago and I find it to be not enough. I was on a budget and couldn't afford something larger. You can. Think about it - especially if you're going for VMs.
> 
> Check the differences between Windows 10 Home and Pro. You might want to get the latter.
> 
> Other than that, I think the setup is rather perfect. Have fun




I figured that 250 would be enough for the OS and main programs while essentially everything else can be run from the 2TB WD black. I admit though I was a little wishy washy on if that would be enough or not. I'm actually not even certain if the performance difference actually matters in real world usage so I was hoping it would be talked about more. Getting a 500GB SSD SATA might be a better value. For reference I also have a NAS with 5x3TB WD Reds where I store all of my media which takes away the bulk.


----------



## peche (Dec 18, 2017)

new build by OP:


> *CPU*
> Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor $489.99
> *CPU Cooler *
> Noctua - NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler $79.95
> ...





Parts i will reuse:

*Cooling* 4x 120mm 1x 200mm fans
*Storage* Hitachi Deskstar 7K500 500GB SATA2
*Case* Antec 900 **
*Audio Device(s)* AuzenTech HDA X-PLOSION 7.1 DTS / Z-5500 logitech
*Power Supply* Corsair Tx750 watt

ill use the same PSU and also case, fans you have on the previuos build will be reused to, as the HDD, could be used as backup / -spare disc,


----------



## notb (Dec 18, 2017)

magibeg said:


> I figured that 250 would be enough for the OS and main programs while essentially everything else can be run from the 2TB WD black. I admit though I was a little wishy washy on if that would be enough or not. I'm actually not even certain if the performance difference actually matters in real world usage so I was hoping it would be talked about more. Getting a 500GB SSD SATA might be a better value. For reference I also have a NAS with 5x3TB WD Reds where I store all of my media which takes away the bulk.


As far as games go, you should be fine - if you're OK with having 2-3 titles installed at once. Many new titles will need 30+ GB of drive space and it's likely this figure will grow in coming years...
Other than that, it depends on what you do, really. Like what do you plan with those VMs.
I'm doing some database work and I'm filling half of my 250GB pretty easily with just the project files currently needed. The other half contains Windows, software, few tiny VMs and other useful files. I moved games back to the HDD (2x WD Blue - RAID 1).

I wouldn't recommend replacing the M.2 NVMe with a SATA SSD. NVMe is just a totally different world. Forget rubbish like fast boot or game loading.
Fast disk could open new possibilities - even some that you're not aware of now.

Few months ago I was replacing my old E5400 Dual Core with some modern stuff. Despite having fairly small budget, I knew that a good NVMe is going to be in the case - even if it costs more than the CPU (which turned out to be almost true ).
Just to give you an example. At work I have to deal with pretty large databases: usually His Awfulness Access, occasionally SQLite or bare text files. And I have a fairly ordinary office PC: i5-6500, 8 GB RAM and HDD - so not unlike what I have at home at the moment. Yet, things that seem impossible to do at work, are pretty easy at home. All thanks to this:


----------



## magibeg (Dec 18, 2017)

peche said:


> new build by OP:
> 
> Parts i will reuse:
> 
> ...



I kept the fans, destroyed the harddrive as it was starting to throw errors anyway. The case isn't as user friendly as the current cases and lacks newer USB support. The sound card doesn't bring too much to the table anymore but I will still be using the Z-5500's. The power supply I used in a computer I built for my parents to save them some money.



notb said:


> As far as games go, you should be fine - if you're OK with having 2-3 titles installed at once. Many new titles will need 30+ GB of drive space and it's likely this figure will grow in coming years...
> Other than that, it depends on what you do, really. Like what do you plan with those VMs.
> I'm doing some database work and I'm filling half of my 250GB pretty easily with just the project files currently needed. The other half contains Windows, software, few tiny VMs and other useful files. I moved games back to the HDD (2x WD Blue - RAID 1).
> 
> ...



Yea you might be right. I figured i'd put my steam folder and such on the 2TB black drive with a choice game or 2 on the SSD but I don't think i'm looking far enough ahead. I might need to dig a little deeper for the 500GB for fear of filling up too quickly.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Dec 18, 2017)

magibeg said:


> I kept the fans, destroyed the harddrive as it was starting to throw errors anyway. The case isn't as user friendly as the current cases and lacks newer USB support. The sound card doesn't bring too much to the table anymore but I will still be using the Z-5500's. The power supply I used in a computer I built for my parents to save them some money.
> 
> 
> 
> Yea you might be right. I figured i'd put my steam folder and such on the 2TB black drive with a choice game or 2 on the SSD but I don't think i'm looking far enough ahead. I might need to dig a little deeper for the 500GB for fear of filling up too quickly.


I definitely would go with 500g


----------



## newtekie1 (Dec 18, 2017)

magibeg said:


> Yea you might be right. I figured i'd put my steam folder and such on the 2TB black drive with a choice game or 2 on the SSD but I don't think i'm looking far enough ahead. I might need to dig a little deeper for the 500GB for fear of filling up too quickly.



I'd take a 480/500GB SATA SSD over a 250GB M.2 drive any day.  Especially so you can then use a small 60GB potion of the SATA SSD to accelerate your HDD using Intel RST.


----------



## magibeg (Dec 18, 2017)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> I definitely would go with 500g





newtekie1 said:


> I'd take a 480/500GB SATA SSD over a 250GB M.2 drive any day.  Especially so you can then use a small 60GB potion of the SATA SSD to accelerate your HDD using Intel RST.



Ah i see how it is now, you guys are friends trying to bankrupt me and get me divorced . I'm actually surprised no one suggested that i get a 1080ti


----------



## notb (Dec 18, 2017)

magibeg said:


> Ah i see how it is now, you guys are friends trying to bankrupt me and get me divorced . I'm actually surprised no one suggested that i get a 1080ti


Don't. Save up for Volta. 

As @newtekie1 suggested: 500 GB SATA costs more or less as much as NVMe 250GB - for gaming and general use (media, web etc) it'll be perfect.
Nevertheless, I strongly suggest NVMe anyway. It's just amazing.


----------



## magibeg (Dec 18, 2017)

Alright I'm going to go with the 500GB 960 EVO M2 drive instead

And because you guys are poison for *only* 250 more there is a 1080ti.



magibeg said:


> *CPU*
> Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor $489.99
> 
> *CPU Cooler *
> ...




Alright, so does anyone see anything I don't  or am I making any semi-obvious poor decisions after i shoved the budget slightly? I put the 1080 ti there because it really is substantially faster for the $250.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Dec 19, 2017)

magibeg said:


> Alright I'm going to go with the 500GB 960 EVO M2 drive instead
> 
> And because you guys are poison for *only* 250 more there is a 1080ti.
> 
> ...



Id give my left nut for that build.


----------



## magibeg (Dec 19, 2017)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Id give my left nut for that build.



Good news, it's going to be slightly better, just need to buy this tomorrow:

http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=179_1229_1296&item_id=101468

*Samsung 960 Pro M.2 NVMe PCI-E 512GB Solid State Drive, Read:3,500 MB/s, Write:2,100 MB/s (MZ-V6P512BW)*
*$389.00*

Found it for slightly cheaper than the cost of the EVO. I'm going to snag that on my way home I think.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Dec 19, 2017)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> That is why i recommended the cryorig h7 for cooler. It has zero clearence issues for memory, and its a fantastic cooler for the price.
> 
> 
> 
> It really doesnt matter what 1080 he gets. The Duke is a fine card. Its also an Asus card not MSi.



The Duke card is actually MSI. Idk why i thought it was Asus. A while back my friend got a new card and it was the Duke, and thougjt for sure it was Asus. I cant read clearly.


----------



## magibeg (Dec 20, 2017)

Alright I bought the ram and the Samsung 960 Pro 512GB. I'm picking things up as I catch them on sale, so the prices aren't actually accurate for any of the things i've bought so far.

*CPU*
Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor $489.99

*CPU Cooler *
Noctua - NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler $79.95

*Motherboard *
ASRock - Z370 Extreme4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard $229.00

*Memory *
*Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $263.95*

*Storage *
*Samsung - 960 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $309.99*

*Video Card *
EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC Black Edition Video Card $949.99

_*Case *
*Fractal Design - Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case $127.99*_

_*Power Supply *
*Corsair - 760W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply $199.99*_

*Operating System*
Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit $116.75


*Total: $2775.60*


All that is left now is the CPU, CPU Cooler, Motherboard, Video Card, and my windows 10 license. I'm still all ears for advice otherwise i'm still moving in this path.


----------



## newtekie1 (Dec 20, 2017)

Question, are you going to use an optical drive?


----------



## magibeg (Dec 20, 2017)

newtekie1 said:


> Question, are you going to use an optical drive?



Sometimes I think yes, but most of the times i'm feeling like it's a no. I have a blu-ray drive in my laptop and I think I can count on 1 hand how often I've actually placed discs in it. I'll end up booting into windows 10 from USB initially for the install and then end up downloading everything else online most likely.


----------



## magibeg (Dec 21, 2017)

Alright due to availability and such here is what i'm looking at now. After a lot of reading i'm feeling pretty OK about water cooling now. Assuming everything is good i'll pick up these last parts tomorrow evening. 

Motherboard: GIGABYTE Z370 AORUS Gaming 5

CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K

CPU Cooler: Fractal Design Celsius S36 AIO Liquid Coolers 360MM

GPU: GIGABYTE AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB

OS: Windows 10 Home OEM


----------



## Vario (Dec 21, 2017)

I don't think the water coolers are worth it. If you buy an All in One it probably won't last 5-8 years.  Pumps die and hoses and seals dry out and crack.  I had an Asetek from a Cyberpower OEM last 5 years before it cracked and leaked.  My Coolit H100i lasted 6 months before pump failed.  If it were me I'd buy a real nice air cooler like the ones mentioned earlier such as Cry Orig R1, Noctua NHD15S, Phanteks PH-TC14 PE, Be Quiet Dark Rock etc.  The beauty of the air cooler is nothing can go wrong.  If a fan dies, it will still provide cooling.


----------



## magibeg (Dec 21, 2017)

Vario said:


> o


AH you're making me paranoid again


----------



## Hockster (Dec 21, 2017)

There's a lot of "the sky is falling" in this thread lol.


----------



## Vario (Dec 21, 2017)

Hockster said:


> There's a lot of "the sky is falling" in this thread lol.


If you had a leak or a pump fail you'd feel the same way.  I've had one of each.  If hes running the system for 5-8 years and if he runs it 24/7 it may happen.  Its an entirely avoidable risk.  The temps a high end air cooler will give you are about the same.

edit: quick google search result.
http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2597777

It does happen.  Its an entirely avoidable risk.


----------



## BarbaricSoul (Dec 21, 2017)

BarbaricSoul said:


> It's not irrational at all. Shit happens. And to chance $2200 worth of hardware over a AIO cooler is not the smartest thing IMHO. Pumps die, seals fail, and while this may be uncommon, it's not unheard of. Personally, I tried AIO, and after my Corsair AIO unit's pump died in the first year, I went back to air cooling and never looked back. A high-end air cooler performs just as good as the AIO coolers. As for a inexpensive recommendation, I've been really impressed with Deep Cool's heatsinks, specifically the Assassin and Lucifer models. I know, WTF is with the names, but trust me, they are very good coolers.
> 
> Here's TPU's review of the Lucifer- https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Deepcool/Lucifer/
> 
> And where you can buy it- https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00RZ8DFDY/?tag=pcp0f-20





adulaamin said:


> That happened to my Antec Kuhler 920. It took the board and cpu with it. After that I went back to air and I'm currently using a Noctua D15s. It's big but it does the job.
> 
> @ OP: How about changing the m.2 ssd to a regular one. I don't know if it's cheaper there but where I'm from I can get double the size fora reasonable extra amount.





Vario said:


> I don't think the water coolers are worth it. If you buy an All in One it probably won't last 5-8 years.  Pumps die and hoses and seals dry out and crack.  I had an Asetek from a Cyberpower OEM last 5 years before it cracked and leaked.  My Coolit H100i lasted 6 months before pump failed.  If it were me I'd buy a real nice air cooler like the ones mentioned earlier such as Cry Orig R1, Noctua NHD15S, Phanteks PH-TC14 PE, Be Quiet Dark Rock etc.  The beauty of the air cooler is nothing can go wrong.  If a fan dies, it will still provide cooling.



That's 3 people that have posted issues with AIO units that could have been avoided by going with a high-end air heat sink. Get what you want, it's your computer. But just realize there is a risk in going with a AIO while there is no real performance gains over a high-end air heat sink.


----------



## magibeg (Dec 21, 2017)

BarbaricSoul said:


> That's 3 people that have posted issues with AIO units that could have been avoided by going with a high-end air heat sink. Get what you want, it's your computer. But just realize there is a risk in going with a AIO while there is no real performance gains over a high-end air heat sink.



Does your deepcool assassin cover up your ram slots?


----------



## Vario (Dec 21, 2017)

magibeg said:


> Does your deepcool assassin cover up your ram slots?


The NH-D15S is designed to accommodate most ram.  It accomodates up to 65mm ram height in single fan (though you could just offset the fan on the Y axis)


> Tailored to provide superior RAM and PCIe compatibility, the NH-D15S is an asymmetrical single fan version of Noctua’s award-winning flagship model, the NH-D15. Thanks to its asymmetrical design, the NH-D15S clears the top PCIe slot on most µATX and ATX motherboards. At the same time, the single fan setup and recessed lower fins guarantee 100% RAM compatibility with memory modules of up to 65mm height. Users who have sufficient room can also upgrade the cooler with either a 120mm or round 140mm fan on the front fin stack for further improved performance in dual fan mode. Topped off with the trusted, pro-grade SecuFirm2™ multi-socket mounting system, Noctua’s proven NT-H1 thermal compound and full 6 years manufacturer’s warranty, the NH-D15S forms a complete premium quality solution that combines dual tower efficiency with excellent compatibility and flexible upgrade options.




I think you should get low profile ram if possible, a lot of ram companies are offering low profile ram nowadays and the large heatsinks on ram is entirely unnecessary.

For example, Corsair LPX which is listed as supported on your motherboards QVL memory list.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3200MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0143UM4TC
*CMK16GX4M2B3200C16*

I would try to get Samsung ram if possible, some of these Corsair LPX use SKHynix.  You'd want Revision 4.31.  No idea how to ensure you get this though, probably everything is Hynix right now.  By reputation, the Samsung are better quality.  More of an imperative on AMD builds though.


----------



## newtekie1 (Dec 21, 2017)

magibeg said:


> Sometimes I think yes, but most of the times i'm feeling like it's a no. I have a blu-ray drive in my laptop and I think I can count on 1 hand how often I've actually placed discs in it. I'll end up booting into windows 10 from USB initially for the install and then end up downloading everything else online most likely.



I only asked because of the case, I was going to suggest the Fractal Design - Define S instead for the better airflow.  But then I realized you already bought the case.



magibeg said:


> Alright due to availability and such here is what i'm looking at now. After a lot of reading i'm feeling pretty OK about water cooling now. Assuming everything is good i'll pick up these last parts tomorrow evening.
> 
> Motherboard: GIGABYTE Z370 AORUS Gaming 5
> 
> ...



I'd be very careful with Gigabyte parts.  Gigabyte has some of the worst customer service right now.  There are several threads of people where they sent in a failed part and Gigabyte refused to honor the warranty because they claimed the part was physically damaged.  And when my GTX970's fan failed, it took them almost 3 months to get me a working card.  The first time they sent me my original card back claiming there was no problem.  Then they just tried to send me the fan to replace it myself, and they sent me the wrong fan.  Then they made me ship the card to them again, at my cost again, and then just kept the card for 2 months.  Lying to me several times along the way, and finally admitting they were out of stock of my card and have been waiting for a month for more to come in from Asia.  The lied again and said once they received the shipment they would immediately over-night me a replacement.  And then shipped it UPS ground...



Hockster said:


> There's a lot of "the sky is falling" in this thread lol.



Agreed.  Yes, AIO coolers _can_ have issues.  But the fact is most of them came in the early days when they first became popular.  And, remember, this is a technology that was adapted from the server environment.  That is where AseTek started their business.  The fact is that the number of issues is an extremely minor number compared to the number of units in service.  And in the early days, a lot of the issues were caused by companies either doing a poor job of copying AseTek or using AseTek's design and making it too cheap.

If you worry about a pump failure, it won't kill the system.  The days of overheating processors killing systems is long gone.  They build so many thermal protections into the CPU, motherboard, graphics card, PSU that overheats just don't kill systems anymore.

In the case of leaks, if you buy a AseTek unit from a reputable manufacturer like Corsair, the likely hood is extremely minor.  Part of the early issues was people taking AseTek's design and making it too cheap, part of that cheapness was switching to rubber O rings, which were failing too often.  AFAIK, every reputable manufacturer has switched back to using silicone O rings which don't dry out and don't fail like the rubber ones did.

That said, for a long term build, I'd still be on the fence about an AIO.  Personally, I have 3 in 3 of my builds.  I've have an H100i, an H80i, and an H110i GTX.  The H100i was bought 4 years ago, and has run 24/7 ever since.  But I'm not likely to put an AIO in a customers computer unless they request it.  If the 1% risk is too much for you, then go with air cooling and the 0.1% risk of failure.  There are plenty of capable air coolers out there.  And if you are worried about RAM slots, get a single tower design, they almost never block RAM slots.  The NH-U12S that I mentioned before performs within 2-5° of an H100.  That isn't a temperature difference that is really going to affect you.  Unless you are really pushing the edge of overclocks and voltages, the temp difference isn't going to hinder you.  And you shouldn't be if you want the CPU to last, Intel CPUs do degrade.


----------



## Vario (Dec 21, 2017)

newtekie1 said:


> I only asked because of the case, I was going to suggest the Fractal Design - Define S instead for the better airflow.  But then I realized you already bought the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'd be very careful with Gigabyte parts.  Gigabyte has some of the worst customer service right now.  There are several threads of people where they sent in a failed part and Gigabyte refused to honor the warranty because they claimed the part was physically damaged.  And when my GTX970's fan failed, it took them almost 3 months to get me a working card.  The first time they sent me my original card back claiming there was no problem.  Then they just tried to send me the fan to replace it myself, and they sent me the wrong fan.  Then they made me ship the card to them again, at my cost again, and then just kept the card for 2 months.  Lying to me several times along the way, and finally admitting they were out of stock of my card and have been waiting for a month for more to come in from Asia.  The lied again and said once they received the shipment they would immediately over-night me a replacement.  And then shipped it UPS ground...


Gigabyte treated me poorly too, I'd do Asus or Asrock.


----------



## dirtyferret (Dec 21, 2017)

magibeg said:


> Alright I bought the ram and the Samsung 960 Pro 512GB. I'm picking things up as I catch them on sale, so the prices aren't actually accurate for any of the things i've bought so far.
> 
> *CPU*
> Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor $489.99
> ...



Just my two cents;

I mostly work with asrock mobos because of the price and I like them just fine but at equal cost I would go with Asus over them.  I think techreport best sums up the big four mobo oems

*Asus* is the biggest of the four main motherboard makers. We think Asus boards have better Windows software and firmware than the competition, plus the most intelligent and reliable auto-overclocking functionality of the bunch. The company's firmware interface offers the best fan speed controls around, too. Some Asus motherboards ship with cushioned I/O shields and header adapters that make it much easier to connect finicky front-panel cabling. Overall, an Asus board should offer the most polished experience of the lot.
*MSI*'s motherboards offer solid hardware paired with polished firmware and Windows software. The nicely-retooled fan controls in the firm's 9-series firmware have been carried over to its latest motherboards, though the company's auto-overclocking intelligence remains fairly conservative and somewhat rudimentary.
*Gigabyte*'s recent motherboards are also a good choice, even if their auto-overclocking intelligence, firmware, and Windows software aren't quite up to par with Asus' or MSI's in this generation. The company's firmware fan controls are now about on par with Asus', but the rest of its firmware and Windows software utilities could still stand some extra polish. Some Gigabyte models ship with cushioned I/O shields and header adapters, too.
*ASRock* generally aims its products at more value-conscious buyers. ASRock boards typically offer a great hardware spec for the money. In our experience, however, ASRock's firmware and Windows software leave much to be desired. ASRock boards are appealing primarily for their budget price tags.
Noctua makes great coolers by in my opinion they over priced from what you can get from cryorig, phanteks or even the new FSP options and if you are not running cpu stress tests the difference is often little to nothing.


----------



## magibeg (Dec 21, 2017)

Vario said:


> The NH-D15S is designed to accommodate most ram.  It accomodates up to 65mm ram height in single fan (though you could just offset the fan on the Y axis)
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I actually have already bought the ram, which is Corsair LPX ram. Mine is the 3000mhz CL15 flavor.



The reason I switched from Asrock to Gigabyte is because i seem to have having trouble getting the Extreme4. It doesn't help me if no one has it in stock. At the start of the thread I was going with Asus motherboards but was steered away from them. For the time being I also need to connect via WIFI so i was looking at boards that had wireless built in. Getting an add-on card costs around $50.

Ok I've decided i'm going to buy the Deepcool Assassin 2. I don't think it will be an issue fitting it into the Define R5 and my ram is low clearance. 

Just need to figure out a motherboard now.


----------



## BarbaricSoul (Dec 21, 2017)

magibeg said:


> Does your deepcool assassin cover up your ram slots?



One of the Fans is slightly over one of the RAM slots, but all I had to do was mount the fan slightly higher on the heat sink (we're talking 3-4 MM here). All four RAM slots are populated on my ASUS board.



magibeg said:


> Ok I've decided i'm going to buy the Deepcool Assassin 2. I don't think it will be an issue fitting it into the Define R5 and my ram is low clearance.



You won't be disappointed. And you are correct, the R5 can handle heat sinks up to 180 mm in height, and the Assassin 2 is 167 mm.


----------



## magibeg (Dec 21, 2017)

Ok I bought the Assassin 2.

Now I just need to buy the Motherboard, CPU, GPU, and a copy of windows.... so close....

Thinking for the mobo:

*ASUS ROG Strix Z370-E GAMING*

*GIGABYTE Z370 AORUS Gaming 5*

Either of those i can get tonight


----------



## cdawall (Dec 21, 2017)

I would do an Asus board and the 8700K no reason to do anything differently. The quality drop complaint with asus still leaves a better board than Asus/MSI/GB in my opinion. I certainly do not see a single reason to even think of HEDT.


----------



## magibeg (Dec 22, 2017)

cdawall said:


> I would do an Asus board and the 8700K no reason to do anything differently. The quality drop complaint with asus still leaves a better board than Asus/MSI/GB in my opinion. I certainly do not see a single reason to even think of HEDT.



Alright, I'm now sporting an 8700k, Asus z370-E and a Zotac Amp Extreme 1080 Ti.

And thus concludes the buying!


----------



## cdawall (Dec 22, 2017)

And my post should have read asrock/msi/gb not asus


----------



## magibeg (Dec 22, 2017)




----------



## Vario (Dec 22, 2017)

Lookin good!


----------



## magibeg (Dec 22, 2017)

And.... It's built.


----------



## BarbaricSoul (Dec 22, 2017)

congrats on the new build, now update your system specs in your forum profile


----------



## magibeg (Dec 22, 2017)

BarbaricSoul said:


> congrats on the new build, now update your system specs in your forum profile



Updated, need to figure out a name for the build but that can wait until later

Damn she benches really nice


----------

