# Home network question



## Bow (Dec 30, 2019)

Hey guys,
Right now I have a Asus Rt ac66u.  Great router, love it.  Problem is it is dying.  Shuts down, sometimes restarts. Power button will not stay in, have it taped up,l.  It is time to get a new one.

So this is what we have on the router.  My pc and one tv are hardwired.  
My wife and I have the 2.4 channel with our cell phones,  2 lap tops that are only crunching for world community grid.
And another tv.
The 5 ghz channel my boys have 2 gaming PC's, 2 xbox's and 2 TV's that are wireless, 
They boys have not noticed any lag issues being wireless for the games they play.

I am trying to figure out how to run everything without spending $200.00 plus on a new router.
I am thinking about hard wiring the boys computers.  Small hole in the wall and cat 5 to their rooms.
Then pick another duel channel router for the rest,
Giving them the the 5 ghz channel for tv and xbox.
Keep the 2.4 for the wife and I.


Looking for thoughts and ideas,

Thanks!

Maybe this router. 
*Linksys Mesh WiFi Router (Tri-Band Router, Wireless Mesh Router for Home AC2200), Future-Proof MU-MIMO Fast Wireless Router.

then each boy will have a channel.*


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## eidairaman1 (Dec 30, 2019)

Netgear


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## Bill_Bright (Dec 30, 2019)

Bow said:


> Small hole in the wall and cat 5 to their rooms.


You do NOT want to use CAT-5. You want at least CAT-5*e* or better yet, CAT-6.

CAT-5 only supports up to 100Mbps. CAT-5e and CAT-6 can support up to 1000Mbps (1Gbps) so that tiny "e" makes a HUGE difference. The main difference between CAT-5e and CAT-6 is CAT-5e can support up to 1Gbps, CAT-6 is "certified" to support 1Gbps. But it is important to note to take full advantage of CAT-6, the network must be in compliance with the CAT-6 standards from end-to-end.

There are many advantages to going with wifi over Ethernet but when I have a choice, I always choose wired (Ethernet). Although wireless networks are easy to secure, wired are inherently more secure from the start. Plus with good cable and connections, interference is rarely a problem.


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## Bow (Dec 30, 2019)

eidairaman1 said:


> Netgear



I play a lot of iRacing.  Netgear and iRacing do not play well togather.



Bill_Bright said:


> You do NOT want to use CAT-5. You want at least CAT-5*e* or better yet, CAT-6.
> 
> CAT-5 only supports up to 100Mbps. CAT-5e and CAT-6 can support up to 1000Mbps (1Gbps) so that tiny "e" makes a HUGE difference. The main difference between CAT-5e and CAT-6 is CAT-5e can support up to 1Gbps, CAT-6 is "certified" to support 1Gbps. But it is important to note to take full advantage of CAT-6, the network must be in compliance with the CAT-6 standards from end-to-end.
> 
> There are many advantages to going with wifi over Ethernet but when I have a choice, I always choose wired (Ethernet). Although wireless networks are easy to secure, wired are inherently more secure from the start. Plus with good cable and connections, interference is rarely a problem.



A basic duel channel wifi router looks to have 4 ethernet ports, 
Any way to hard wire my pc, the main TV and run 5e to the rooms for the pc's and xbox's


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## dirtyferret (Dec 30, 2019)

Bow said:


> Hey guys,
> Right now I have a Asus Rt ac66u.  Great router, love it.  Problem is it is dying.  Shuts down, sometimes restarts. Power button will not stay in, have it taped up,l.  It is time to get a new one.
> 
> So this is what we have on the router.  My pc and one tv are hardwired.
> ...



how about powerline adapters?  Set up an AP upstairs for your boys and a simple 1200AC router can handle your downstairs.


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## Bow (Dec 30, 2019)

Bill_Bright said:


> You do NOT want to use CAT-5. You want at least CAT-5*e* or better yet, CAT-6.
> 
> CAT-5 only supports up to 100Mbps. CAT-5e and CAT-6 can support up to 1000Mbps (1Gbps) so that tiny "e" makes a HUGE difference. The main difference between CAT-5e and CAT-6 is CAT-5e can support up to 1Gbps, CAT-6 is "certified" to support 1Gbps. But it is important to note to take full advantage of CAT-6, the network must be in compliance with the CAT-6 standards from end-to-end.
> 
> There are many advantages to going with wifi over Ethernet but when I have a choice, I always choose wired (Ethernet). Although wireless networks are easy to secure, wired are inherently more secure from the start. Plus with good cable and connections, interference is rarely a problem.



A basic duel channel wifi router looks to have 4 ethernet ports, 
Any way to hard wire my pc, the main TV and run 5e to the rooms for the pc's and xbox's

Do they make a hub or something that I can run it all from?


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## bonehead123 (Dec 30, 2019)

Bill_Bright said:


> You do NOT want to use CAT-5. You want at least CAT-5*e* or better yet, CAT-6.
> 
> CAT-5 only supports up to 100Mbps. CAT-5e and CAT-6 can support up to 1000Mbps (1Gbps) so that tiny "e" makes a HUGE difference. The main difference between CAT-5e and CAT-6 is CAT-5e can support up to 1Gbps, CAT-6 is "certified" to support 1Gbps. But it is important to note to take full advantage of CAT-6, the network must be in compliance with the CAT-6 standards from end-to-end.
> 
> There are many advantages to going with wifi over Ethernet but when I have a choice, I always choose wired (Ethernet). Although wireless networks are easy to secure, wired are inherently more secure from the start. Plus with good cable and connections, interference is rarely a problem.



On that note, check this out.... this was current as of a few months ago AFAIK


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## Bow (Dec 30, 2019)

dirtyferret said:


> how about powerline adapters?  Set up an AP upstairs for your boys and a simple 1200AC router can handle your downstairs.



Single story home, 3 bedroom log cabin.


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## dirtyferret (Dec 30, 2019)

Bow said:


> A basic duel channel wifi router looks to have 4 ethernet ports,
> Any way to hard wire my pc, the main TV and run 5e to the rooms for the pc's and xbox's
> 
> Do they make a hub or something that I can run it all from?



get a simple switch or use an old router


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## Bill_Bright (Dec 30, 2019)

Bow said:


> A basic duel channel wifi router looks to have 4 ethernet ports,


Almost all wifi routers have an integrated 4-port Ethernet switch. Unless you want to run two wires through your wall, you will want to use a 1Gb Ethernet switch (not hub) in the boy's room. Then one Ethernet cable from the router, through the wall to the switch in the boy's room and then to each computer.


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## dirtyferret (Dec 30, 2019)

Bow said:


> Single story home, 3 bedroom log cabin.



Will probably work even better.  Set up an AP (old router can work) in one of the boys bedrooms and hardwire everything and make the other bedroom wireless (or get another adapter and hardwire both)


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## Bill_Bright (Dec 30, 2019)

dirtyferret said:


> Set up an AP (old router can work)


Not too old. If both boys are streaming at once, an older router may not have too much latency - especially if a budget router to begin with. 



Bow said:


> Single story home, 3 bedroom log cabin.


If there is easy access to a crawl space under the floor, or in the attic, if me, I would wire the home with CAT-5e or CAT-6. Yes, pulling wires is a pain, but once done, unless you have hungry critters that like to gnaw on wires, it will last long after the boys move out.


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## Bow (Dec 30, 2019)

Bill_Bright said:


> Almost all wifi routers have an integrated 4-port Ethernet switch. Unless you want to run two wires through your wall, you will want to use a 1Gb Ethernet switch (not hub) in the boy's room. Then one Ethernet cable from the router, through the wall to the switch in the boy's room and then to each computer.



So for 2 bed rooms just get 2 switches?

I'm going to get a switch and hard wire the boys rooms .  My pc and main tv will also be hardwired.
Everything else wireless.

Now to shop for a good router.

Thanks for the help guys!!!


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## dirtyferret (Dec 30, 2019)

Bow said:


> So for 2 bed rooms just get 2 switches?
> 
> I'm going to get a switch and hard wire the boys rooms .  My pc and main tv will also be hardwired.
> Everything else wireless.
> ...


 Personally I would set up an AP since then you get a switch and wifi.


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## Bill_Bright (Dec 30, 2019)

Bow said:


> So for 2 bed rooms just get 2 switches?


I thought they shared a bedroom. Sorry. You can do two switches, but depending on the floor plan, you may just want to use one. Or as dirtyferret notes, maybe wifi is best for you. Much depends on floorplan, distances, number of barriers (walls), and the consistency and contents of those barriers.


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## Bow (Dec 30, 2019)

P


dirtyferret said:


> Personally I would set up an AP since then you get a switch and wifi.
> [/QUO[/
> 
> Can you please explain an AP please I am not familiar with that.


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## dirtyferret (Dec 30, 2019)

Bow said:


> Can you please explain an AP please I am not familiar with that.



An Access Point (AP) which can be a dedicated unit like those in mesh systems or a converted router which would allow you to use the router ports as a switch (as Bill Stated above)









						How to turn an old Wi-Fi router into an access point
					

Instead of getting rid of that old and busted Wi-Fi router, you can use it instead to extend the Wi-Fi coverage of your home. Here's how.




					www.cnet.com
				




In my house I have the following set up

First floor living room - Netgear Nighthawk 1700ac router with one roku hardwired and one powerline adapter hardwired.  It also handles two stationary wifi clients in my basement office (my PC and printer). 

Second Floor Master Bedroom - I use my old Asus N600 router as an AP through the second powerline adapter.  I have one roku hardwired to the AP and one stationary wi-fi client (amazon echo dot in my son's room). 

I then have five mobile wi-fi clients (two cell phones, two tablets, and one laptop) that move throughout the house.  They connect to the Netgear router when in the basement or first floor and switch to the Asus AP when upstairs.


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## Bill_Bright (Dec 30, 2019)

AP or WAP - wireless access point. They used to be separate devices but these days they typically are integrated with routers and 4-port switches and are marketed as "wireless routers". Technically they are still discrete network devices that just happen to share a common circuit board, case and power supply.


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## Bow (Dec 30, 2019)

Thank you for the information.
I am going to read up on that.  May be the way to go.
Thanks again to everyone for the information.


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## bogmali (Dec 30, 2019)

dirtyferret said:


> how about powerline adapters?



Using them at my house (built 2005), powerline to my boy's rigs (upstairs), another to my other rig (also upstairs) and one to an Apple TV downstairs. They work great and much faster than Wi-Fi (IMHO).


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## ShrimpBrime (Jan 1, 2020)

Bill_Bright said:


> You do NOT want to use CAT-5. You want at least CAT-5*e* or better yet, CAT-6.
> 
> CAT-5 only supports up to 100Mbps. CAT-5e and CAT-6 can support up to 1000Mbps (1Gbps) so that tiny "e" makes a HUGE difference. The main difference between CAT-5e and CAT-6 is CAT-5e can support up to 1Gbps, CAT-6 is "certified" to support 1Gbps. But it is important to note to take full advantage of CAT-6, the network must be in compliance with the CAT-6 standards from end-to-end.
> 
> There are many advantages to going with wifi over Ethernet but when I have a choice, I always choose wired (Ethernet). Although wireless networks are easy to secure, wired are inherently more secure from the start. Plus with good cable and connections, interference is rarely a problem.



Dude you had me going for a second!! I just looked at my cable from my router to gaming rig. It's Category 5 patch cord man!!! 

However, my connection speeds are 3 times faster than 100mb/s...... 355mb/s to be precise. The cable is only 6 foot long. 

How could I tell if it's Cat 5 or Cat 5e? Would it be printed on the insulation, or is it within the product code?


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## Solaris17 (Jan 1, 2020)

It will be printed on the insulation. It will say 5e.

you are probably negotiating at full gig though since the distance is so short


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## ShrimpBrime (Jan 1, 2020)

Yea just says category5 patch cord in exactly those words.

How can I sustain a speed test at such high speeds if this cable is only supportive of 100mb/s? Doesn't a lot of that have to do with length of the cable?

I should test the PC on the 100ft cable. That one says Cat-5e, should be close to same speeds then right? Even with the length?


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## Solaris17 (Jan 1, 2020)

Because the length is so short. The 5e at 100ft will test the same speed.


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## ShrimpBrime (Jan 1, 2020)

You know, I never really gave it much thought what cables I've been using all these years.

The short one is OLD. Been using it .... oh, I can't even remember how long now.

Cool, learned something new today!

What is Cat-5e 4 PR 24 (UL) CMX-Outdoor/CMR 340 8 H? This means it's the "good stuff"??
edit:
Looking it up quickly, the 24 is the gauge. What's with all the rest of the numbers?


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## Solaris17 (Jan 1, 2020)

ShrimpBrime said:


> You know, I never really gave it much thought what cables I've been using all these years.
> 
> The short one is OLD. Been using it .... oh, I can't even remember how long now.
> 
> ...



they are specification specific. That is CMR which is outdoor cable. It’s not bad but is generally more and harder to work with in some edge cases because of the cladding. Normal cat5 indoor should more than suffice for any indoor or even in wall installation.

to be honest go to mono price and but some pre made booted cable in any color under the sun pre made to the size you need.


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## bonehead123 (Jan 1, 2020)

ShrimpBrime said:


> What is Cat-5e 4 PR 24 (UL) CMX-Outdoor/CMR 340 8 H? This means it's the "good stuff"??
> edit:Looking it up quickly, the 24 is the gauge. What's with all the rest of the numbers?



See the attached pdf, which is from one of the commercial cable suppliers that my company uses.  It may be "industrial grade", but it is the thinnest, cheapest version of that.  It is usually chosen and preferred by commercial installers for 2 reasons:

A)  Being so thin, it is easy to pull it through walls, conduit and patch cabinets. AND

B)  Being so small in diameter, you can pull alot of strands of it through each wall or run of conduit, and/or you can use smaller diameter conduit for a given run, *which reduces the materials & labor costs of each pull, which in turn increases the profit made on each job*.

For home use, this won't mean much, however, for large commercial/industrial projects that may require 100's of thousands of feet of cable, minimizing/controlling the cost of materials & the labor to install them is a top priority.

Therefore, I would recommend you only use normal "consumer-grade" cables in your home, which are normally thicker (18, 16 or 14 gauge) and more closely aligned with it's intended usage scenario:  indoors, in walls/ceilings etc at 100' or less with near-constant transmission speeds and minimal interference without having to be protected by conduit or excessive & expensive shielding.


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## newtekie1 (Jan 1, 2020)

ShrimpBrime said:


> How can I sustain a speed test at such high speeds if this cable is only supportive of 100mb/s? Doesn't a lot of that have to do with length of the cable?



Contrary to popular belief, you don't need Cat5e to get Gigabit and you don't need Cat6 to get 10Gbit.  Cat5 will work at gigabit over a short distance(under ~10ft in my experience) as long as it is a 4-pair cable(some cat 5 is 2-pair and will only do 100Mbit).  Cat5e on the other hand, I've seen handle 10Gbit over a 100ft cable.


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## Bill_Bright (Jan 1, 2020)

Solaris17 said:


> Because the length is so short.


Right. Plus the cable must have good terminations (crimped on connectors), and the cable is not near another source of EMI/RFI. 

I worded it wrong in my first post. The CAT-5 specification does not say "up to" 100Mbps. It says "100Mbps or more" with lengths up to 100m (~300ft). But those are under ideal conditions. 

But the point I was making is still valid. You were going to run new cable into the boys room. I would not run out and replace your current CAT-5 but for sure any new cable you buy and install should be at least CAT-5e. 

Speaking of connectors, it should be noted a poor crimp can ruin a good cable. And sadly many factory made are have poor crimps and typically are not tested before being packaged for sell. Plus, even quality cables are easily damaged by a single excessive yank, or trip-over.

I make my own cables. IMO, its the only way to go. But it is important to "invest" in a quality crimping tool to ensure you get a quality crimp each time. Good electrical connections require good mechanical connections first. I wasted a lot a time, money and connectors by buying a cheap crimping tool - twice.  

There are other advantages to making your own cables. If you need a 16 foot cable, you can make a 16 foot cable instead of buying a 25 foot cable. If you need an 18 inch cable to go between your router and your modem, make one. No need to contribute to the rats nest of excessive cables behind the desk.

When pulling cables through walls, floors and ceilings, you need a much smaller hole when there's no connector on the end. Plus no worries about damaging the connector while pulling the cable. 

So IMO, investing in a quality crimping tool is worth the investment. Also, even if you buy factory made cables, a decent cable tester is affordable and invaluable at saving time, lowering blood pressure, and preventing excessive hair loss. 

For those considering making your own cables, be prepared to sacrifice a few connectors and a few feet of cable practicing first. Good light and a shot of Jack to steady the hands will help too.


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## ShrimpBrime (Jan 1, 2020)

Thank you all for the explanations. 
I have a way better understanding of the differences of Cat5 Cat5e.

Think Bill is onto something, I should make my own cables (next time when need be) I'll definitely reference this thread in the future and it will help me give suggestions to people as well as make good decisions with cabling.

You guys are awesome! Thank you. (And Happy New year btw!)


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