# Motherboard shutting down shortly after power up



## RandomSadness (Jul 2, 2015)

So I cleaned my cpu and h110i gt water block using artic silver articlean and applied fresh thermal paste (mx4).
I afterwards noticed that I put way too much thermal compound on the cpu, but just kept it, thinking it would be fine.
Finished the build, powering the computer on, and seeing that the motherboard just powered up and less than 1 second later powered off.
I thought it could have been due to the huge amount of thermal paste so I cleaned the cpu and water block , then applied a tiny dot , but it didn't boot either.
I checked the power supply, then plugged the 12v cpu cable off, the motherboard didn't shut down, but it didn't boot (obviously).

*How can I fix this ?*


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## Pill Monster (Jul 2, 2015)

Pretty safe bet the PSU is shot.

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=413


Try to avoid cheapo units as you often end up paying more in the end........... 


Where are you?


*Ed** Just to check, try booting without the GPU.


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## RandomSadness (Jul 2, 2015)

I live in an oversea department of France. Are you sure I have a faulty power supply ? I have had no problems with this unit till I changed the thermal paste.


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## manofthem (Jul 2, 2015)

It sounds like it's possibly shorting out so check all connections and possible areas. Is the block the only thing you adjusted and/or moved?


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## Pill Monster (Jul 2, 2015)

We


RandomSadness said:


> I live in an oversea department of France. Are you sure I have a faulty power supply ? I have had no problems with this unit till I changed the thermal paste.


Well could be a coincidence, is AS5 conductive I can't remember? If the board is clean then I'd check the PSU next....


Hmm maybe it is a short looking at this:


> *The mediocre:*
> 
> 
> double spec ripple spikes on the 3.3V, 5V, and 5VSB rails
> ...





> *The Bad:*
> 
> 
> *ATX connector had mega loose pin sockets*
> ...



Is it completely new build?


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## RandomSadness (Jul 2, 2015)

Checked the other 12v cable, without graphics card, without network card , hard drives , tried another power cord , still shutting down less than 1 second later.
Not sure if the power supply or the motherboard , but it makes a low pitched noise before shutting down.

Edit : The power supply vibrates making the noise.



Pill Monster said:


> Is it completely new build?



3 weeks old.


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## Pill Monster (Jul 2, 2015)

Yeah the PSU is almost certain to blame, maybe it's shorted or dead who knows.... did u read the OK Wolf review?
It should be replaced anyway, PSU is the cornerstone of any overclock.  And if the atx pins are loose you'll have all kinds of problems.



Just a suggestion, Corsair have a new hybrid modular unit out, the CS M I think, has OK reviews.....maybe check it out.  Think 

Seems reasonably priced, my mate bought one for his 290. Has 5yr warranty...


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## 95Viper (Jul 2, 2015)

You didn't tighten the water block down to tight, did you?

Do a re-check on those connections, too; and, others you may have bumped.
If you took the CPU out of the socket... re-check the pins.

If you can borrow another working PSU and test... before going out and buying a new one.

Also, makes sure all the screws, tools, etc. are accounted for.


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## johnspack (Jul 2, 2015)

Honestly I'd look at the psu as well.  What is that?


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## 95Viper (Jul 2, 2015)

johnspack said:


> What is that?




that

I could not help myself... I had to post it.


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## Bill_Bright (Jul 2, 2015)

RandomSadness said:


> Finished the build, powering the computer on, and seeing that the motherboard just powered up and less than 1 second later powered off.


That is a symptom of a bad PSU, but it also is a symptom of a bad CPU, the BIOS failing to sense the CPU fan, bad RAM, or even bad graphics. It can also be caused by a foreign object, such as extra standoffs, under the motherboard. So this can be difficult to troubleshoot. Note extra standoffs is a common mistake.

Did you ensure both power cables to the motherboard are connected? Many graphics cards require 1 or 2 extra power cables from the PSU, so make sure they are connected.

Did you take care to observe ESD precautions when handling the CPU and RAM?

Any beeps?



RandomSadness said:


> I checked the power supply, then plugged the 12v cpu cable off


How did you check the PSU? And what do you mean by plugged the cable "off"?

You might try removing everything from the case and assembling the computer on piece of bare cardboard or a large breadboard and see what happens. If it still does not boot, then I would borrow a good PSU to swap in.


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## Aquinus (Jul 2, 2015)

This may sound absurd but, did you reset the BIOS? There have been a handful of instances (usually if I've been overclocking,) where I would shut my machine off, unplug it, do something to it like reapply the TIM on my GPUs, then put it all back together again and turn it on and sometimes it would stay on and hang or do as you suggest and turn off instantly and not boot and after enough on and off cycles it sometimes would carp about overclock failure even though saving the same setting I already had would usually work fine.

Also turning on and then shutting off is the exact behavior my P9X79 Deluxe does when DRAM is just barely unstable enough to boot but not so unstable that it can't operate (where it hangs on DRAM init.) So if you haven't reset your BIOS, I would do that now just so you can rule out instability due to your overclocks.


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## RandomSadness (Jul 2, 2015)

How can I reset my motherboard ? I'll also use another power supply to test if the system can boot. Everything was plugged in when testing.


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## MrGenius (Jul 2, 2015)

Should be some clear CMOS jumper pins somewhere. ASUS says there is.

My question is, did you remove the CPU from the socket before cleaning it? Or did you try cleaning it while still installed?


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## RandomSadness (Jul 2, 2015)

MrGenius said:


> Should be some clear CMOS jumper pins somewhere. ASUS says there is.
> 
> My question is, did you remove the CPU from the socket before cleaning it? Or did you try cleaning it while still installed?


I cleaned it while seated. Is it bad ?


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## MrGenius (Jul 2, 2015)

Not necessarily. But I wouldn't advise it. Try removing it, and reinstalling it. You may have shifted it enough to push a pin or two out of place. Which will probably re-align if you just take the CPU out and put it back in.


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## CAPSLOCKSTUCK (Jul 2, 2015)

If you doubt your PSU buy one of these, they work and they are cheap





20/24 Pin Power Supply Tester Test With PSU ATX SATA HDD Connectors PC Computer

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-24-Pin...951?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2edef8ada7


I would much rather repaste a cpu in situ.


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## RandomSadness (Jul 2, 2015)

CAPSLOCKSTUCK said:


> If you doubt your PSU buy one of these, they work and they are cheap



This can't be delivered in my country. And if it could , it would take many weeks..



MrGenius said:


> Not necessarily. But I wouldn't advise it. Try removing it, and reinstalling it. You may have shifted it enough to push a pin or two out of place. Which will probably re-align if you just take the CPU out and put it back in.



I will try this and report back.


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## HWTactics (Jul 2, 2015)

CLRTC is the CMOS clear jumper on your ASUS X99 mobo.  Turn off the PC, move the plastic jumper to the right one pin, then move it back into its original position and try turning the PC on again.

If you don't have any luck then, textbook hardware troubleshooting enters the scene.

Leave only the power supply cables to the mobo & video card, the video card itself, CPU/CPU cooler and RAM plugged in.  Try to power it on.
If no life, re-seat the power supply cables and try again.  Make sure the plastic clips are clipped on all the way.
If no life, re-seat the RAM and try again.  Make sure the mounting tabs are clipped in all the way.
If no life, re-seat the CPU and cooler and try again.

If still no life, things start to get a little more troublesome.  My bet would be on either the motherboard or power supply at that point.


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## adulaamin (Jul 2, 2015)

It would be good to check the Q-Code LEDs as well when you turn on the PC. It's #19 on the pic posted by HWTactics.


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## CAPSLOCKSTUCK (Jul 2, 2015)

Bill mentioned it earlier, do you have beeps? Do you have a speaker attached?

I would also suggest a corrupted or fried BIOS chip, smelling your board will help with this, even though it may take weeks to arrive, one of these is a very cost effective way of diagnosing mobo issues






they are cheap
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-PC-4-...464?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item418ecab0e0


i used my one on a faulty Z87 board about a week ago.


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## RandomSadness (Jul 2, 2015)

adulaamin said:


> It would be good to check the Q-Code LEDs as well when you turn on the PC. It's #19 on the pic posted by HWTactics.


It displays 00 and instantly turns off.


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## MrGenius (Jul 2, 2015)

CAPSLOCKSTUCK said:


> I would much rather repaste a cpu in situ.


If by that you mean "without removing it from the socket", you're just asking for trouble. Maybe when the OP gets back and says my idea worked, or you bend a pin so bad it can't be fixed by doing it, you'll change your mind.

It's just not a smart thing to do. Maybe in the pre-LGA days it wasn't as stupid. But those days are for the most part over and gone.


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## CAPSLOCKSTUCK (Jul 2, 2015)

MrGenius said:


> If by that you mean "without removing it from the socket", you're just asking for trouble. Maybe when the OP gets back and says my idea worked, or you bend a pin so bad it can't be fixed by doing it, you'll change your mind.
> 
> It's just not a smart thing to do. Maybe in the pre-LGA days it wasn't as stupid. But those days are for the most part over and gone.



i hardly think it is "stupid " to gently remove old TIM when the cpu is securely locked in place, rather than risk damage to sensitive pins while removing and then replacing it, 

I am finding it difficult to visualize just how vigorously you would have to rub your chip before damage would occur if you left it in its' socket which after all is designed to grip it tight


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## Pill Monster (Jul 2, 2015)

RandomSadness said:


> This can't be delivered in my country. And if it could , it would take many weeks..
> 
> 
> 
> I will try this and report back.


Don't you have a local PC store? Take the case in and ask for a PSU test.  Should only take 5mins..... they'll prob do it for free.


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## MrGenius (Jul 2, 2015)

CAPSLOCKSTUCK said:


> I am finding it difficult to visualize just how vigorously you would have to rub your chip before damage would occur if you left it in its' socket which after all is designed to grip it tight


Honestly, I can't visualize it either. But I've witnessed pins losing contact with lands through no purposeful manipulation at all. I can only hypothesize that this was due to the case being jarred hard enough to cause the weight of HSF to apply enough force to cause it. So about that vigorously, I presume.

IOW, not a guess. Based on real world experience. As usual.


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## CAPSLOCKSTUCK (Jul 2, 2015)

in my real world experience something very heavy fell on this when it was attached to the cpu. The cpu and mobo still worked







documented here
http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/ghetto-mods.55387/page-74


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## Bill_Bright (Jul 2, 2015)

I advise against removing the CPU to clean or to re-TIM!

Once properly seated and clamped in, it would take considerable force to move it around and bend anything. The heatsink clamping mechanism puts a lot more force on the CPU than you need to carefully clean it. Most old TIM will come off with a cotton swap dabbed on 91-93% isopropyl alcohol and careful rubbing. It may take a few minutes but if you are in that big of a hurry, you need to go away and come back when you can take the necessary time.

Any hard to remove residue will come clean with careful scraping with your fingernail, then finish again with the cotton swap.

There is a MUCH GREATER RISK of damaging the CPU through mishandling, dropping, or most likely ESD if you remove it from its socket, where the contacts are now exposed and the CPU is no longer grounded to the chassis.

With it firmly clamped in its socket, the CPU is grounded to the chassis and once you touch bare metal of the case, you are then "at the same potential" as the CPU and no destructive electro-static discharge can occur.

With it firmly clamped in its socket, CPU and socket pins and conductor pads are not exposed to damage or excess TIM or skin oils. Plus you have both your hands free to deal with the TIM.

@MrGenius - if you witness this damage through such excessive force then I contend those are the exceptions to the rule and exceptions don't make the rule.

So I say leave the CPU clamped in place where it is grounded and the socket and CPU contacts are protected. Then carefully clean it there where cannot fall out of your hands and bounce off the floor, or get zapped by static in your body.


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## Bill_Bright (Jul 2, 2015)

I was just advising another poster on another forum who is moving to remove the heatsink assembly before transporting, unless he can be certain the PC can lay on its side so the motherboard is horizontal with the CPU (and monster HSF assembly) sitting on top. Shipping a computer in the tower position with a monster HSF like that (or even the OEM coolers) can really put undue stress on the socket and create micro-fractures in the motherboard. Not good. In some case, the HSF assembly can even break loose then bang around inside the case the rest of the trip. Really not good.


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## MrGenius (Jul 2, 2015)

All good counter points. I have no really strong arguments against them. I might even change my method if I ever end of up killing anything with an ESD. But frankly, that's not something I've ever taken precautions against(much less witnessed first hand). I consider the odds of it happening on par with getting struck by lightning. Which does happen. So I can't rule it out(and I'm not ignorant enough to deny the science behind it). However, I can't imagine doing a thorough enough job of TIM removal without removing the CPU from the socket first. Not as easily at least. And factoring in that during removal it can easily get pushed around into places that it would be otherwise impossible to remove from without opening the socket(and/or removing the CPU), I'd just as soon not have that possibly happen to begin with. And, actually, if I'm the one working on it, I'm not concerned in the slightest about the pins being disturbed/damaged. But I'm not you, or him/her, or whomever. So I don't know how gently/carefully anyone else is capable of doing it. I tend to stick to the "assume the best, expect the worst" philosophy.

Man, here we go again. My apologies to the OP. We needn't discuss such conjectural matters in your thread. For all we know they are of no relevance whatsoever to it. And I'm pretty sure I started it this time. My bad.


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## Aquinus (Jul 2, 2015)

HWTactics said:


> View attachment 66214
> 
> CLRTC is the CMOS clear jumper on your ASUS X99 mobo.  Turn off the PC, move the plastic jumper to the right one pin, then move it back into its original position and try turning the PC on again.
> 
> ...


No, there should be a push button reset button for the BIOS. You want to reset the CMOS not the real time clock.




Start here, then we can continue. Otherwise everything is speculation.


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## rtwjunkie (Jul 2, 2015)

I'm wondering, before going into all the suggestions in here, all of which are good and valid, if the OP ever removed the motherboard from the case and tried to start it up on cardboard as @Bill_Bright suggested earlier?  This would help eliminate a short between the case and the back of the board as a culprit.


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## Schmuckley (Jul 2, 2015)

A) Breadboard it (That's been mentioned)
B) 1st thing I would do it loosen all the block-mounting nuts until they're barely loose then barely snug each one down in a crosshatch pattern.
C) Pop your RAM out then in again,making sure it snaps in.


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## Pill Monster (Jul 2, 2015)

Aquinus said:


> No, there should be a push button reset button for the BIOS. You want to reset the CMOS not the real time clock.
> View attachment 66225
> 
> Start here, then we can continue. Otherwise everything is speculation.


CLRTC is clr cmos. 

The bottom buttons are  for power-on and power-reset. 

Made for people too lazy to jump with a screwdriver.


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## HWTactics (Jul 2, 2015)

Pill Monster said:


> CLRTC is clr cmos.
> 
> The bottom buttons are  for power-on and power-reset.
> 
> Made for people too lazy to jump with a screwdriver.



Yes indeed!  I looked up the OP's specific motherboard manual and inserted the motherboard graphic directly from it, so the CLRTC jumper is the one he should be looking for.  No BIOS reset button on that model. :<


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## Aquinus (Jul 2, 2015)

Pill Monster said:


> CLRTC is clr cmos.
> 
> The bottom buttons are  for power-on and power-reset.
> 
> Made for people too lazy to jump with a screwdriver.


No, I stand corrected. I thought the OP had a X99-Deluxe not a X99-A. The X99-a doesn't have a button, just the jumper. The deluxe has a button much like my P9X79 deluxe. Simple mistake.

Either way, the OP still should clear his CMOS. 

Clearly, this guy (me) is ready for a long weekend.


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## JunkBear (Jul 2, 2015)

Defective powet button, conductive thermal paste, loose connectors. If loose connector just insert tiny screwdriver in connector to push back the pins in timy squares.


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## RandomSadness (Jul 2, 2015)

I cleared the CMOS, got the motherboard out of the case , and it still does shutdown. However when not plugging in the 12v cable it stays powered on. I tried with and without the ram, graphics card and every other component. Can we for sure say that the problem comes from the PSU ?


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## Bill_Bright (Jul 2, 2015)

MrGenius said:


> But frankly, that's not something I've ever taken precautions against(much less witnessed first hand). I consider the odds of it happening on par with getting struck by lightning.


That's actually the problem. ESD can result in a static discharge that can easily torch a Grand Canyon sized gorge (microscopically speaking) through 1000s of transistor gates in an ESD sensitive device (high-density ICs like a CPU, GPU, memory modules) without us humans even being aware a discharge occurred!  That is, an ESD can be massively destructive, yet still be so tiny, we humans can neither see, hear, or feel the "spark".  All we know is suddenly the CPU or RAM no longer works.

The fact of the matter is, more CPUs are RMA'ed due to ESD (lack of precautions by the user!) than any other reason. 

If you do not take necessary ESD precautions, the odds are MUCH GREATER than getting hit by lightning!


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## Bill_Bright (Jul 2, 2015)

RandomSadness said:


> Can we for sure say that the problem comes from the PSU ?


No. That's why swapping in a known good one is a good next step.


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## Aquinus (Jul 2, 2015)

RandomSadness said:


> the 12v cable


8-pin EPS? I just want to make sure we all understand what you're describing.





So the 24-pin ATX connector is plugged in but the 8-pin EPS is not. The 8-pin EPS connector is strictly for CPU power which I would imagine would narrow it down to CPU or PSU.


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## RandomSadness (Jul 2, 2015)

Aquinus said:


> 8-pin EPS? I just want to make sure we all understand what you're describing.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Yes. When i unplug this cable, the motherboard doesn't shutdown at all.


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## Norton (Jul 3, 2015)

RandomSadness said:


> Yes. When i unplug this cable, the motherboard doesn't shutdown at all.



If you are using the Lepa psu in your specs it has 2 different MB connectors you can use (8pin EPS12V and 4+4pin EPS/ATX12V)- if one doesn't work then you can likely try the other one.


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## Aquinus (Jul 3, 2015)

RandomSadness said:


> Yes. When i unplug this cable, the motherboard doesn't shutdown at all.


CPU initialization is failing. You said that you didn't remove the CPU when you redid the TIM? Try reseating the CPU and make sure not to over-tighten the cooler.


Norton said:


> If you are using the Lepa psu in your specs it has 2 different MB connectors you can use (8pin EPS12V and 4+4pin EPS/ATX12V)- if one doesn't work then you can likely try the other one.


Aren't they keyed differently or is it just a second EPS connector for boards like those dual CPU EVGA boards from years ago?


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## Norton (Jul 3, 2015)

Aquinus said:


> Aren't they keyed differently or is it just a second EPS connector for boards like those dual CPU EVGA boards from years ago?



They should be keyed the same (99.99% sure)- the 8pin EPS will even fit in a 4pin ATX12V socket as long as there is room for the connector to overhang the socket on the board...


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## RandomSadness (Jul 3, 2015)

Norton said:


> If you are using the Lepa psu in your specs it has 2 different MB connectors you can use (8pin EPS12V and 4+4pin EPS/ATX12V)- if one doesn't work then you can likely try the other one.


As I previously stated, I tried both, in vain...


Aquinus said:


> CPU initialization is failing. You said that you didn't remove the CPU when you redid the TIM? Try reseating the CPU and make sure not to over-tighten the cooler.


I will try it and see what happens.


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## RandomSadness (Jul 3, 2015)

Ok so I removed the CPU and put it back, but it still didn't boot. No pins were bent. I'm getting seriously worried. Could the cleaning with articlean possibly hurt something ?


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## HWTactics (Jul 3, 2015)

You know, this might be a long shot, but are you sure you're not getting these two mixed up?  I've seen it happen before...... and *by a coworker in my IT department*, at that.

It could be triggering the short circuit protection.











Edit: Also you may want to check the CPU socket closely for bent pins (this may have been suggested already).  I use my cell phone as a flashlight.  One pin is all it takes.


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## RandomSadness (Jul 3, 2015)

HWTactics said:


> You know, this might be a long shot, but are you sure you're not getting these two mixed up?  I've seen it happen before...... and *by a coworker in my IT department*, at that.
> 
> It could be triggering the short circuit protection.
> 
> ...


Not a chance , PCI-E connectors are blue. I actually used my flashlight to check for bent pins.
I will post pictures of the cpu and the motherboard so you will see if I am missing something.


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## HWTactics (Jul 3, 2015)

RandomSadness said:


> Not a chance , PCI-E connectors are blue. I actually used my flashlight to check for bent pins.
> I will post pictures of the cpu and the motherboard so you will see if I am missing something.



 We love pix.


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## johnspack (Jul 3, 2015)

johnspack said:


> Honestly I'd look at the psu as well.  What is that?


Cute responses,  was trying to be cute myself as I've never heard of that psu...  I'll remember not to do that again...


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## Schmuckley (Jul 3, 2015)

RandomSadness said:


> I cleared the CMOS, got the motherboard out of the case , and it still does shutdown. However when not plugging in the 12v cable it stays powered on. I tried with and without the ram, graphics card and every other component. Can we for sure say that the problem comes from the PSU ?


Have you trying using just 1 stick of RAM in each slot? If one doesn't work in all the slots,try another one 
also: push all the wires into the power plugs for your mobo.
LEPA is made by Enermax and..has some cheaper parts.
JonnyGuru did NOT like it. 
Where can you get parts from?


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## MrGenius (Jul 3, 2015)

johnspack said:


> I've never heard of that psu...


You've never heard of a LEPA PSU? I find that pretty hard to believe. They've been around for a while now.

Here I am wondering what is that? Or those? In your avatar. Here's your chance to make me look naïve as hell too.


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## Pill Monster (Jul 3, 2015)

That usually means the vrm's are toasted.


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## Pill Monster (Jul 3, 2015)

OP you might want to read this:


http://www.legitreviews.com/intel-x99-motherboard-goes-up-in-smoke-for-reasons-unknown_150008






MrGenius said:


> You've never heard of a LEPA PSU? I find that pretty hard to believe. They've been around for a while now.
> 
> Here I am wondering what is that? Or those? In your avatar. Here's your chance to make me look naïve as hell too.


 No wonder you got banned from Guru3D.


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## adulaamin (Jul 3, 2015)

RandomSadness said:


> It displays 00 and instantly turns off.



I had an issue before with an Asus M5G although mine would just keep on restarting. Tested the CPU on a different board and it would display 00 on the Q-Code LEDs. I tested with parts, different PSU, different RAM (tried 1 stick, 2 sticks, 3 sticks, 4 sticks, different locations), different motherboard, different CPU, tested the parts outside the case and inside the case, and flashing the BIOS. After testing, it turned out that the motherboard and CPU were both dead. If you have a friend in the area who has a similar build, ask if you can test your parts on his/her PC. Bring it to a local computer shop if you have to check as well.

Edit: Here's the link to the thread for my problem before. It might help.


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## RandomSadness (Jul 3, 2015)

So I had the chance to test another PSU, had the same issue I encountered with the other one, shutting down of the motherboard less than 1 second after powering the system up. So I guess the PSU is not the problem, maybe the CPU is faulty. In this case , what can I do ?


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## CAPSLOCKSTUCK (Jul 3, 2015)

Pick your board up and give it a sniff, if any part is fried you will smell it, my bet is still a faulty/cooked  BIOS chip.


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## RandomSadness (Jul 3, 2015)

CAPSLOCKSTUCK said:


> Pick your board up and give it a sniff, if any part is fried you will smell it, my bet is still a faulty/cooked  BIOS chip.


It doesn't smell fried at all. It smells neutral, like "regular hardware".


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## Rowsol (Jul 3, 2015)

You've had the computer for 3 weeks but never had a problem until you cleaned the cpu.  If that's the only difference between it working, and not working, I guess you killed the mobo cpu socket or the cpu itself.  No way of knowing until you get working parts and test.  I hope you figure it out.  Not sure why 3 week old paste needed redoing in the first place.


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## RandomSadness (Jul 3, 2015)

Rowsol said:


> Not sure why 3 week old paste needed redoing in the first place.


It was pre applied thermal paste from the waterblock, I wanted to see if the temperatures would have been better with MX-4. The result wasn't exactly what I expected.


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## Pill Monster (Jul 3, 2015)

RandomSadness said:


> It was pre applied thermal paste from the waterblock, I wanted to see if the temperatures would have been better with MX-4. The result wasn't exactly what I expected.


 Did you see my post regarding the vrms? I thouht I quoted you but seems I didn't.

If the board only stays powered on with the 12v cpu plug removed there's a good chance the vrms are cooked. They need a power good message from the cpu. If you follow the link to legit reviews and read the article you can see that particular board a fault where vrm ocp wasn't working, consequently killing the cpu power on module.

Looks like the initial cause was PSU overcurrent, which would go hand in hand with the JohnnyGuru test resulrs


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## Caring1 (Jul 4, 2015)

RandomSadness said:


> It was pre applied thermal paste from the waterblock, I wanted to see if the temperatures would have been better with MX-4. The result wasn't exactly what I expected.


I can't see how changing thermal paste can kill a CPU unless you removed it completely from the system and damaged it somehow or bent a pin on the Motherboard.
Personally I find it quick and easy to remove the cooler and change the paste without removing the CPU.
as mentioned, it can be damaged VRM's, but I would check the pins on the board if you removed the CPU.


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## adulaamin (Jul 4, 2015)

The best way to know which part is dead is to get/borrow working parts and test. You can try to RMA both the CPU and motherboard as well. RMA with Intel (based on my experience) is hassle free although RMA with ASUS (based on my experience) is a PITA. I hope you can borrow working parts to test your system on.


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## jaggerwild (Jul 4, 2015)

00 on the Q codes of an ASUS mother board=corrupted bios.  Here's a link with how 2 instructions.
http://event.asus.com/2012/mb/USB_BIOS_Flashback_GUIDE/


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## Aquinus (Jul 4, 2015)

jaggerwild said:


> 00 on the Q codes of an ASUS mother board=corrupted bios.  Here's a link with how 2 instructions.
> http://event.asus.com/2012/mb/USB_BIOS_Flashback_GUIDE/


You know, while I'm reluctant to think that's the case, USB FlashBack does let you flash the BIOS without a working CPU or DRAM. It may be a good idea just to flash the latest BIOS just to rule it out. The times I've had a bad BIOS, the board would usually hang, not shut back off, but it's something worth exploring. Good catch.


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## adulaamin (Jul 4, 2015)

jaggerwild said:


> 00 on the Q codes of an ASUS mother board=corrupted bios.  Here's a link with how 2 instructions.
> http://event.asus.com/2012/mb/USB_BIOS_Flashback_GUIDE/



I'm not 100% sure but I think 00 Q-code on an ASUS board means a problem with the CPU. Had that same Q-code with my dead M5G and reflashed the BIOS multiple times as well to no avail. It would be worth a try though.


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## RandomSadness (Jul 4, 2015)

Thanks all, I will try the bios flashback and report results.


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## RandomSadness (Jul 4, 2015)

I tried with the cpu and ram connected, it didn't work. So I got everything out and tried with the 24 pin cable only , and it still didn't work. I encountered this problem 





> If the light flashes for five seconds and turns stable, USB BIOS Flashback is not operating properly. This may be caused by improper installation of the portable storage device, an error in the file name, or incompatibility in file formats. If this is the case, restart the system until the light clears, and check the file name and format.


I tried a USB2 and USB3 key, obviously with the dedicated BIOS flashback port, with the right file name, in vain.
I really don't think what else I could do now...


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## adulaamin (Jul 4, 2015)

RMA the parts if you're don't have or can't borrow a spare motherboard/CPU to test.


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## Pill Monster (Jul 4, 2015)

RandomSadness said:


> I tried with the cpu and ram connected, it didn't work. So I got everything out and tried with the 24 pin cable only , and it still didn't work. I encountered this problem
> I tried a USB2 and USB3 key, obviously with the dedicated BIOS flashback port, with the right file name, in vain.
> I really don't think what else I could do now...



Did u read the legitreviews article I linked to earlier?

http://www.legitreviews.com/intel-x99-motherboard-goes-up-in-smoke-for-reasons-unknown_150008

Exactly what you've described, to a T.    OCP failed and the vrm's along with the CPU were fried.  Either vrm ocp or psu ocp but prob vrm since same chipset.


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## Pill Monster (Jul 4, 2015)

Here's another X99, same scenario..... This one MSI.








*My Core i7 5960X + MSI X99 Experience So Far: It's Smoking, Really*


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## Bill_Bright (Jul 4, 2015)

Caring1 said:


> I can't see how changing thermal paste can kill a CPU unless you removed it completely from the system and damaged it somehow or bent a pin on the Motherboard.


I agree. If you left the CPU in its socket, that would protect the pins from physical damage. Plus the CPU would be _less _susceptible to ESD damage. I say less but not immune. You still need to take necessary ESD precautions by unplugging the computer from the wall and touching bare metal of the case interior to discharge any static in your body and put you and the CPU/computer "at the same potential".

I would try one stick of RAM at a time and see what happens.


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## RandomSadness (Jul 4, 2015)

Pill Monster said:


> Here's another X99, same scenario..... This one MSI.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I would have noticed it, and just checked using my flashlight. I will RMA the parts.


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## RandomSadness (Jul 4, 2015)

Bill_Bright said:


> I agree. If you left the CPU in its socket, that would protect the pins from physical damage. Plus the CPU would be _less _susceptible to ESD damage. I say less but not immune. You still need to take necessary ESD precautions by unplugging the computer from the wall and touching bare metal of the case interior to discharge any static in your body and put you and the CPU/computer "at the same potential".
> 
> I would try one stick of RAM at a time and see what happens.


I did all that. Thanks anyway.


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## R-T-B (Jul 4, 2015)

Best of luck with the RMA.


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## adulaamin (Jul 4, 2015)

RandomSadness said:


> I would have noticed it, and just checked using my flashlight. I will RMA the parts.



I wish you the best of luck with Asus. I hope you get better service than what I experienced.


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## Pill Monster (Jul 4, 2015)

Been doing a bit reading, seems a few X99's use analogue PWM controllers...X99-A is one, so is X99 SLI Plus..
The thing with analogue is they tend to overshoot the target voltage....even the OCP limit if LLC + vcore is high enough.  Wonder if that played a part and not so much total OCP failure?

Only  speculation ofc.....


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## Caring1 (Jul 5, 2015)

R-T-B said:


> Best of luck with the RMA.


I detect sarcasm 
I hope it all goes smoothly, despite reports otherwise.


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## nictgsf (Jul 5, 2015)

Bit late to the party, but as your board is RMA'd I'd check the underside of your CPU. I've known a tiny spot of thermal paste to get onto the underside of the cpu and effectively block one of the contact points. This would give you the same symptoms as you originally described.

Good luck


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## R-T-B (Jul 5, 2015)

Caring1 said:


> I detect sarcasm
> I hope it all goes smoothly, despite reports otherwise.



Maybe a little, but I do honestly hope it goes well...


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## jaggerwild (Jul 12, 2015)

They take weeks, I had many issue's with the flash back. Took me several tries to get it to go, the board should have dual bios, right?


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## RandomSadness (Aug 5, 2015)

I never knew RMA could have been so long, as I never had issues with any of my hardware parts. As it turns out, it isn't going well. They sent me the following CID (Customer Induced Damage) repair table :






Given the state of my motherboard, they can't repair it under warranty (bolded CIDs in table). Here are the pictures they provided :













What do you think ?


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## RandomSadness (Aug 5, 2015)

I did some research, and feel like the damages on the board don't look like what Asus rejects : https://www.asus.com/support/Article/568/
Am I wrong ?


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## OneMoar (Aug 6, 2015)

ASUS Will reject anything with visible damage
that being said
1. the damage shown in the pictures should not be fatal (the second picture looks like somebody hit it with sand paper or some other abrasive tool )
2. ASUS Techs aren't known to be very careful if the damage didn't exist when you sent the board out its likely they did it and are blaming you for it (asus has a bit of a history with this)
push for escalation and tell them the damage didn't exist when it was sent to them
if they complain point them to this thread AND this one http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/not-super-pleased-with-asus.213921/
the last thing they want is to have two very public cases of repair-center induced damaged on a very public site


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## jaggerwild (Aug 7, 2015)

Broken traces in the first photo


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## OneMoar (Aug 7, 2015)

jaggerwild said:


> Broken traces in the first photo


they aren't broken it just looks like some of the epoxy is scrapped away


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## jaggerwild (Aug 9, 2015)

OneMoar said:


> they aren't broken it just looks like some of the epoxy is scrapped away



  Clearly you need glasses! And don't know what your talking about!  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  I can tell by your spamming.............


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## OneMoar (Aug 9, 2015)

jaggerwild said:


> Clearly you need glasses! And don't know what your talking about!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


hey sonny that black line is where some of the pcb/coating epoxy is intact
continue to run your mouth at your own peril if it was broken you would see exposed silicon

and quick way to tell is to put a meter on each side of the trace there and check the resistance
if its good throw some clear nail polish over it and then go figure out what is really wrong with it
(something asus didn't do )
now it could very well be damaged enough to cause a issue but 
if you read the thread the all the op did was pull the cooler and re-paste it unless he took the board out and threw it across the the room its either shipping damage (doesn't look like that) or asus's did the dirty themselves


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## jaggerwild (Aug 10, 2015)

It's people like you who put food on my plate, I'm not here to be right but I was trying to help the OP with his board.
 I'll see it again, maybe even buy it....................................


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## RandomSadness (Aug 21, 2015)

Just a little update here. They did refuse my motherboard as a warranty repair and returned it. I afterwards bought the X99-A/USB 3.1 motherboard. I now have my system back, almost two months later . Anyway, I thank you all for the provided help!


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## tabascosauz (Aug 21, 2015)

RandomSadness said:


> Just a little update here. They did refuse my motherboard as a warranty repair and returned it. I afterwards bought the X99-A/USB 3.1 motherboard. I now have my system back, almost two months later . Anyway, I thank you all for the provided help!



Wait...are you just going to leave that Maxbron there?

The damn thing received a *4 *from OW.

That's a lot of money you spent on X99 and I don't want to see you have to replace anything again because, in part, of the PSU. Just because 1000W is plenty of overkill for your system doesn't mean that it gets off the hook with that kind of ripple. I also wouldn't have gone _back_ to Asus and bought _another_ board from them after that shitty RMA job they did, but hey, what's done is done and it can't possibly be as dangerous as using that Maxbron.


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## micropage7 (Aug 21, 2015)

RandomSadness said:


> Just a little update here. They did refuse my motherboard as a warranty repair and returned it. I afterwards bought the X99-A/USB 3.1 motherboard. I now have my system back, almost two months later . Anyway, I thank you all for the provided help!


sorry to hear that, sometimes rma process is shitty and they just point all is customer fault then case closed.


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## Aquinus (Aug 21, 2015)

This wouldn't be the first time ASUS has been careless with hardware then called it user error. Next time you ever need to send hardware back for RMA to them, take a lot of close-up pictures of the hardware so you can tell them that it was okay when it left your place and that they're lying to you. I hate to say it but, out of all the companies, ASUS seems to have the worst RMA experience of any any manufacturer in the business.

@Solaris17 : Sound familiar?


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