# New watercooling setup!



## Basard (Jun 12, 2019)

I've been looking at getting the cheapest watercooling setup for my CPU.  I can some good speeds with my new mobo, but my CPU temps are hurting....  I've got the 'low profile' RAM to match up with a 420mm radiator. But I just need the rest.  I do WCG crunching 9-10 hours a day while I'm at work.  I just want something that will keep my delidded 8700K at a decent temp for 5ghz while I'm at work.  I have it at 4.8Ghz, no AVX offset, and 1.29 volts right now, and it runs at 76C average while crunching.  

I've been eyeballing a 420mm AIO from Alphacool, but also looking at building my own loop.  

What would you guys recommend?  

I've been looking at pumps, and their reliability also.....  D5 is obviously the best, but seems overkill for a 420mm loop for just my CPU.


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## dgianstefani (Jun 12, 2019)

Buy a Noctua NHD-15. I run my 8700k at 5.1 24/7 never exceeds 75c


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## Basard (Jun 12, 2019)

dgianstefani said:


> Buy a Noctua NHD-15. I run my 8700k at 5.1 24/7 never exceeds 75c


I thought about it, but I would like the ability to expand the loop for GPU cooling.  Plus i think it will just be fun to build a loop.

Forget I even said 'cheapest,' I'm thinking that's a bad idea when mixed with water cooling.

Anybody know which brands have best warranty support?


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## infrared (Jun 12, 2019)

It's definitely fun building a loop, and temps are very good too.. maintenance can be a complete PITA though (especially if you end up with some growth or corrosion), there's been a few times where I've wondered to myself why I bother, but I do love the aesthetic and cooling performance so it's worth it to me. Definitely nice for distributed computing stuff like WCG too.. My 6700k rig currently doubles as a HTPC and WCG cruncher, it's nice to be able to run it full load at 4.0ghz 1.24v and never exceed 48c, fans are running almost silent. Even when I push the chip hard I end up in dangerous voltage territory long before I have to worry about thermals. Although that particular loop sucks when the two Kepler GPUs are loaded up, 2x300W + cpu with only 360mm of rad area isn't nearly enough! My main system with 480mm of rad area for a ~160w cpu and 360w gpu is about perfect, more rad area would be nice to be able to run the fans slower though.

Probably worth just getting a D5, you could get a pwm one and drop the speed if you only have your cpu in the loop, but you have the ability to add your GPU (or two) to the loop without having to worry much about flow rate/restriction so I think it's worth the investment, if you buy decent pump/res/rads/fittings you can re-use them in the future

Warranty wise.. Here's my limited experience:

So far I've had EK, XSPC, Swiftech and Aquacomputer stuff.. I haven't needed to contact EK yet, but would like to talk to them about nickel getting corroded off my 1080Ti block in a few small places, the quality seems great for the most part. XSPC is kinda no-frills, does the job, really good price. Never needed to return anything of theirs. Likewise for Swiftech, that was the first watercooling kit I ever had back in the Core 2 duo days and loved it. Aquacomputer make good parts, I did need to contact their support dept about the wrong spacers being included with my two 6GB Titan waterblocks, they resolved the issue quickly and with no fuss. Oh, I did get some Bitfenix hard-tube fittings once that came with o-rings that were too fat, OCUK were happy to replace them but in the end I just found some correctly sized o-rings myself. Tbh I think if there's a genuine issue with any watercooling product you shouldn't really have much of a problem getting it sorted.


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## kapone32 (Jun 12, 2019)

The Alphacool 420 is a no brainer if you have the space in your case. The best thing about the Alphacool are the following 

1. The waterblock and Rad are both copper.
2. Their quick connecct links allow you to expand the loop to include a GPU.
3. The reservoir is on the CPU block and has a fill hole so that when you lose fluid, due to condensation you can refill it. Based on the side window on the block. 
4. For what you get it is inexpensive.
5. There are a myriad of parts that are available to use e.g. any 1/4 inch will fit.


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## Basard (Jun 12, 2019)

Cool. Thanks for your time guys. I'll figure it out in a week or so when they money hits the bank.


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## HUSKIE (Jun 12, 2019)

Just like this.


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## kapone32 (Jun 12, 2019)

Basard said:


> Cool. Thanks for your time guys. I'll figure it out in a week or so when they money hits the bank.





HUSKIE said:


> Just like this.
> 
> View attachment 124820



That is too expensive for what the OP wants to do. You are showing a full custom loop that would not be fun for someone with no experience to try.



HUSKIE said:


> Just like this.
> 
> View attachment 124820
> [/QUOTE
> ...





Basard said:


> Cool. Thanks for your time guys. I'll figure it out in a week or so when they money hits the bank.



Maybe when you have some time and our time differences work out we can PM each other and I can show you my rig that has 2 Alphacool 420s in it and give you a detailed list of pros and cons.


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## Basard (Jun 12, 2019)

Lol @HUSKIE that's a little over the top.  
@kapone32 that would be cool.  When you got your Eisbaers did they come with the blue or black fans?


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## phanbuey (Jun 12, 2019)

HUSKIE said:


> Just like this.
> 
> View attachment 124820



"My board won't post"

"take out a ramstick and try just one in slot A1"

"Give me a few days...."



Basard said:


> I've been looking at getting the cheapest watercooling setup for my CPU.  I can some good speeds with my new mobo, but my CPU temps are hurting....  I've got the 'low profile' RAM to match up with a 420mm radiator. But I just need the rest.  I do WCG crunching 9-10 hours a day while I'm at work.  I just want something that will keep my delidded 8700K at a decent temp for 5ghz while I'm at work.  I have it at 4.8Ghz, no AVX offset, and 1.29 volts right now, and it runs at 76C average while crunching.
> 
> I've been eyeballing a 420mm AIO from Alphacool, but also looking at building my own loop.
> 
> ...



Oh wait you're on air...

A 360MM rad intake will keep it cold.   For just a CPU loop you dont need a d5, you can easily get away with this:


			Amazon.com
		


I have the alphacool pump  block and it is a bitch to bleed.

This is my setup for a 7820X @ 4.6ghz:






If you don't bleed it right it will make a rattling noise from the air bubbles.  It's also much much much weaker than the $30 pump i posted.

It does look cleaner though, and it is pretty silent (once you get the air out of it).

If you have the space (I like going with smallest possible ATX) then I would build a proper loop with an MCP355 clone - you just can't beat the temps.


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## Basard (Jun 14, 2019)

phanbuey said:


> If you don't bleed it right it will make a rattling noise from the air bubbles.


So, maybe this is a newb question... but if the radiator was above the block/pump there would be no issues with the air bubbles in the pump, right?  Unless there was just a massive amount of air in it?

And about the TC-A pump... it seems like a DDC style pump.  Excuse my lack of experience with these things, but, it would not be compatible with the reservoirs that you can stick a DDC to the bottom of, like the EK-XRES, right?  I'm thinking of getting something like that (EK-XRES), just for a little more simplicity.

Edit: Missed the last part where you say go with a MCP355 clone.  Is that like an upgraded DDC?  Probably another newb question, but I'm only really familiar with DDC and D5 right now--everything else seems like maybe generic to me.


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## phanbuey (Jun 14, 2019)

Basard said:


> So, maybe this is a newb question... but if the radiator was above the block/pump there would be no issues with the air bubbles in the pump, right?  Unless there was just a massive amount of air in it?
> 
> And about the TC-A pump... it seems like a DDC style pump.  Excuse my lack of experience with these things, but, it would not be compatible with the reservoirs that you can stick a DDC to the bottom of, like the EK-XRES, right?  I'm thinking of getting something like that (EK-XRES), just for a little more simplicity.



Theoretically yeah if you have the rad above the pumprez the air should get stuck in the top of the rad and the pump will run quiet. 

Kind of defeats the purpose of a pump rez.  I've also seen people have luck mounting it upside down to get rid of the air rattle. 

Temperatures are very good with it though, so no complaints there.


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## Basard (Jun 14, 2019)

I might just get that Alphacool kit, it comes with fans, and is so much cheaper than building a loop.  at least the rad and fans can be reused if i wanna throw a bigger pump at it.  But then I always forget to factor in the cost of a CPU block.


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## phanbuey (Jun 14, 2019)

Basard said:


> I might just get that Alphacool kit, it comes with fans, and is so much cheaper than building a loop.  at least the rad and fans can be reused if i wanna throw a bigger pump at it.  But then I always forget to factor in the cost of a CPU block.



It's a good plan - you will definitely need another pump if you do a GPU block.


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## John Naylor (Jun 14, 2019)

1.  I have never seen a WC loop where ARM height had any impact on radiators.

2.  I'd skip the AIO and just go custom, Im not familiar with the pump in the kit your speaking to.  The only AIOs I can attest to having sufficient pump flow are those from EK and Swiftech.

3.  Pump flow depends on system pressure loss.   For CPU,  I shoot for  a usable range of 0.5 to 1.5 gpm.  While GPUs usually have far more heat output, CPUs temps are far more sensitive to pump flow than GFX cards.  If doing SLI / CF, you can split the flow before the cards, sending half thru each, resulting in reducing pressure loss thru the  cards to 28% of a single card.

4.  Assuming a 130 watt OC'd CPU and a 300 Watt OC'd GPU being cooled, that's 430 "theoreticial watts"... Abut 30-40 % of that load be handled by the rad a a) the system will never have all components at max load at the same time, and b) a good part of the heat radiated off th blocks, tubing, shrouds, etc.... that leaves 60 - 70% (@ 258 - 300 watts) or so to be handled by the rad.

5.  A 45 mm thick custom loop 420 mm Alphacool radiator  will handle the following








						Radiator Size Estimator
					

A few peeps have asked me to provide this info in an easily accessible / findable spot so the don't have to remember what thread it is in or take snippets from multiple threads. If ya find it useful, great .... if ya like something better, by all means use what ya comfy with. First off, I did...




					www.overclock.net
				




1000 rpm ~ 199 watts in push / 240 watts in push pull
*1250 rpm ~ 245 watts in push / 296 watts in push pull*
1400 rpm ~ 272 watts in push / 329 watts in push pull
1800 rpm ~ 359 watts in push / 434 watts in push pull

I'd suggest:

a) Alphacool 420mm / 45 mm thick rad (review below for 360 model)








						Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 360 Radiator
					

This is #10 in my series of triple radiators the Alphacool NexXxos XT45.   We saw how “Full Copper” of the thicker 60mm UT60 did extremely well in performance and the XT45 shares that s…




					martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com
				




b) Swiftech MCP-655 PWM








						Swiftech MCP 655-PWM-DRIVE Pump Review
					

Welcome to my “living” review/preview of the Swiftech MCP 655-PWM DRIVE. What do you get when you couple our most reliable, most silent, and most cool running pump with PWM technology? …




					martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com


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## Basard (Jun 15, 2019)

Thanks for the post @John Naylor .

I've gotta list put together from PPCs site.  Other than fans, do yo guys see anything missing, or incompatible in the list?


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## Basard (Jun 22, 2019)

Okay...... So after some further research, it turns out that a few items (everything in my cart, almost) is junk.   

I'm looking at pretty much only keeping the pump, radiator, tubing, and fittings.  Also, it turns out that the pump comes with the o-ring and D5 screw ring.  The D5 Photon res seems to have a really bad pressure drop, according to a review I read--pity because it looks pretty cool.  I'm also looking at an XSPC Raystorm Pro CPU block--seeing as the one I have in that cart doesn't even come with a back plate.

The last time I had to do this much research into parts was when I got out of the navy and had fallen behind on the news.


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## FireFox (Jun 22, 2019)

Basard said:


> it turns out that the pump comes with the o-ring and D5 screw ring. The D5 Photon res seems to have a really bad pressure drop, according to a review I read--pity because it looks pretty cool.








						Alphacool 13291 Ice Cream Cup D5 250 mm Acetal Including 1x VPP655 Water Cooling Pump : Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories
					

Buy Alphacool 13291 Ice Cream Cup D5 250 mm Acetal Including 1x VPP655 Water Cooling Pump at Amazon UK. Free delivery and return on eligible orders.



					www.amazon.co.uk


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## phanbuey (Jun 22, 2019)

if you're just doing a cpu loop do a normal ddc pump and a triple rad / 280mm rad -- throw some Noctua A12's on it in push... done.  Keep it simple.
DDC pump with res top -$35
3/8" id tubing with fittings- $25
360mm rad - $60 to $80
3 x noctua a12's - $90
whatever block. -you can get some decent ones on amazon for like - $30.

You shouldn't really have to spend more than about $200 to $250 for that.... it will cool really well and run fairly quiet.  just have the fans ramp up with the CPU temp and put a slow rampdown on them, and it will work great.  Make sure the rad is intaking cold air, and your chip will run plenty cold.

Or just buy one of the ek kits and get some experience putting it all together.  Once you do it once it becomes exponentially easier to piece custom loops together.


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## John Naylor (Jun 22, 2019)

I personally use the Swiftech 35x2 dualie w/ heat sink and fan which runs about $250 but you have no need here for such a beast.  But the better D5 pumps w/ speed control will run ya $80.....and as you can see here, take the Noctua fans off  a Noctua cooler and replace them with Phanteks and at the same rpm your CPU drops 6C.



			Phanteks PH-F140(XP, SP, SP_LED) Fans: Testing -  Phanteks PH-F140 (XP, SP, SP_LED) Case Fan Review - Page 3
		


There's always the kit option .... Here's a kit well worth the money









						Swiftech Boreas Series DIY CPU Liquid Cooling Kit
					

Boreas Series, DIY liquid cooling kits with built-in addressable RGB lighting



					www.swiftech.com
				





The Apogee SKF-LT CPU waterblock, based on Swiftech's most advanced in micro-fin technology
The D5/MCP65X pump, the Award Winning pump with full PWM functionality preinstalled to the Maelstrom D5 V2 reservoir
One of three Hydrae GT Series radiator
Up to three Helix 120 IRIS fans
The IRIS ECO V2 fan and lighting controller
Swiftech's HydrX NF coolant, premium nanofluid coolant manufactured by Mayhems exclusively for Swiftech
Ultra Clear 3/8"x5/8" tubing by Mayhems
HydrX IRIS coolant dyes in three colors
Filling accessories
Part Number: H2O-BOREAS

Configuration: RAD360-X100-BARB-BLACK-EXT0 - $259.95


And customizations .... 

Upgrade to 3 fans / 360mm rad - $76.49
Upgrade to 100mm reservoir - $6.49
Upgrade to Compression Fittings - $26.19

Swiftech's D5 pumps are top notch and very quiet as you can see by the link below .  The rads, well they are not up to say Hardware Labs but, as with the water block, still upper tier performers. 









						Swiftech MCP 655-PWM-DRIVE Pump Review
					

Welcome to my “living” review/preview of the Swiftech MCP 655-PWM DRIVE. What do you get when you couple our most reliable, most silent, and most cool running pump with PWM technology? …




					martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com


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## HUSKIE (Jun 22, 2019)

@ OP Are you using soft or rigid tubings? If you are first timer on dirty and messy custom watercooling set up. I suggest go for soft tubings first. but if you prefer rigid you have to be ready. It cost you some extra money to buy an Petg or acrylic tube. Practice makes perfect. Lol


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## MrPerforations (Jun 22, 2019)

hello,
         EK™ Vardar 120mm fans, cold air is paramount. a 360 AIO and those would be a cpu cooled.








						EK-Furious Vardar FF5-120 (3000rpm)
					

EK-Vardar is the industrial grade high-static pressure computer cooling  fan,  designed and built primarily for  highest-performance computer  liquid cooling systems.Furious Vardar FF5-120 makes no compromise. It is the highest performing Vardar series fan!




					www.ekwb.com
				



they do have 140mm fans too, 144cfm and  5.28mm H²O​
ali express™ has "deals" on water cooling kit. last I remember seeing was about £80-90


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## HUSKIE (Jun 22, 2019)

MrPerforations said:


> hello,
> EK™ Vardar 120mm fans, cold air is paramount. a 360 AIO and those would be a cpu cooled.
> 
> 
> ...



I'm using those EK Vardar. Not the best fans when they're on full speed sounds Just like an engine jet.

Not recommended:


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## Basard (Jun 24, 2019)

Thanks for all of your posts guys.

I've been digging around a lot and I discovered Monsoon's modular system.  It blew my mind--everything I've been looking for!  I ended up with an all black setup, with white lights, a 200mm tube, three-port top, and a D5 bottom.   I added an MCP655 PWM and an inverter for the lights and hit order.   So, I've got a pump and res coming.  I figure I'll have to do some drilling to get it in the case and then I can figure out where to go from there. 

It's lookin like one or two paydays from now before I get the rest of the setup though.

@HUSKIE  I'll be going with the soft tubes.  I work at a fluid power company--building hose assemblies, shipping, and receiving... eventually I'm hoping to get some custom, stainless steel braided hoses with crimped fittings on the ends.  I'm not sure how that's all going to work out, and the fittings are probably going to be expensive.

Something similar to this $500+ piece of SCRAP that I brought home the other day:


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## Basard (Jun 29, 2019)

Well, I got the res all put together.... It's pretty sweet. The caps for the res are a LOT harder than I expected.  They almost seem like they are made of the same stuff that fan blades are made of.  They say it's nylon, and that had me a bit worried, but I guess it's super nylon or something.  




And here it is, mounted in my filthy case.




It's a tad crooked.... of course, but I'll probably get that sorted out when I put the radiator in.   It's gonna be tight.


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## exodusprime1337 (Jun 29, 2019)

If you can swing the cost. I'd recommend an EK PE 360 Rad some flex tubing, a d5(mcp655) style pump and an ek block, or go for heatkiller as they're not to expensive. I've had amazing luck with all of these products and currently use them in my existing rig. 

The d5 pumps last forever, and the ek rads dissipate a ridiculous amount of heat. Well worth the costs though they aren't all that expensive really .


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## HUSKIE (Jun 29, 2019)

@OP That case same as mine.


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## Basard (Jun 30, 2019)

@exodusprime1337 I've got the pump already, just need rad/block/tubing.  I'm debating myself as to if I should go for the 420 rad up top, or a 360....  I don't really want to use 120mm fans.  I'm almost tempted to just get two 280mm rads, but that seems kind of expensive.


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## Solaris17 (Jun 30, 2019)

Please for the love of god get yourself a drain valve.

Otherwise @exodusprime1337 has hit the nail imo love my EK kit with room to expand and mod

But seriously get a drain valve put a quick disconnect on it so you can put a length of tube on it later do yourself the favor


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## Good3alz (Jun 30, 2019)

phanbuey said:


> This is my setup for a 7820X @ 4.6ghz:
> 
> View attachment 124837
> 
> ...


Your problem is your CPU block is the highest point.
For the win..burp it : (Microcenter)



Fyi, I had to change the size of the barbs on the Swiftech on mine to be smaller diameter.




Better yet, move your 120 rad on the back of your top front case fan, shorten the hose length. The radiator will be higher then your CPU. Any air gets in a CPU/pump, and is trapped in that pump.. you will fry that pump.

I have had to EDIT my post because of missing letters, different words I did not type. I'm using a PC not a phone with auto spelling / suggestions. 
Why is this happening with the incorrect words/errors?


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## phanbuey (Jun 30, 2019)

i actually fixed it by just putting a bleeder section on the fillport...




sorry for the glare - but it basically keeps it fed and i don't have to take the pump off to refil ever. 

I don't want the rad in the back becuause of aesthetics and cooling (it's intaking cool air from the bottom right now, with push pull noctuas)



			Amazon.com


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## Basard (Jul 2, 2019)

Looks like I'll be plumbing a T into the bottom port of the res.....  Seeing as there is only one hole on it.  

I went ahead an ordered the Black Ice GTS 420 that PPCS had on sale for 45 bucks.  So I can go ahead and stare at that for a couple weeks til I get the remaining tubing, fittings, and block.  WTF is up with their website, I had to run a damn VPN just to get in yesterday.


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## Basard (Jul 6, 2019)

Well, the radiator is in, and it is, in fact, new.  Although the copper inside does look quite old....  It was advertised as a pallet that HW Labs found and gave to PPCS for a good price.  The fin density (30 fpi) is insane on this thing.   Should I fill it with vinegar or something?








I'm still looking for a cheap way to splice a drain into the output line of my res.... Anybody have a suggestion?  Buying a T-fitting, valve and three more compression fittings seems excessive.


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## Good3alz (Jul 6, 2019)

Basard said:


> Well, the radiator is in, and it is, in fact, new.  Although the copper inside does look quite old....  It was advertised as a pallet that HW Labs found and gave to PPCS for a good price.  The fin density (30 fpi) is insane on this thing.   Should I fill it with vinegar or something?
> 
> View attachment 126287




OHH... perdie!

Copper doesn't rust. Copper corrosion is green mold like (wet fuzzy) then changes color.
No point in vinegar. (Unless you SEE corrosion)


I'm concerned on the threads they 'look' rusty. is it metal - the barb collars on the tank?
If so, I would just buy a TAP like in a Tap & Die set.. from harbor freight and re tap the threads.. it is not worth introducing vinegar into the radiator.

Vinegar is an acid and you will need to neutralize the acid after use.. Use microwave hot vinegar.. shake the radiator for 5 minutes.. Rinse-look, repeat?
Neutralize by Baking Soda / warm/hot Tap Water. Rinse 3-4 times..
Flush under bath tub hot water, shaking draining, filling shaking draining.
Hair dryer RIGHT away.. get it hot, shake it.. ( it will get hot to touch.. you want to cook the water out .. evaporate it out the tank)

I have been doing Coleman Fuel tanks (Lantern- "Fount"). Vinegar on steel rust.. it flash rusts if you leave it 5 minutes without a rinse.. It has been a learning process. But a Fount, I can do the above then spray WD-40 in side, turning that WD-40 to coat the inside of the Fount.. The Coleman Fuel will deal with that slight bit of WD-40.
You can't WD-40 a rad.
Again, different metals.

Vinegar will change the color of copper to a dull. (but we are talking inside the Fount and your Rad.. (if you use it)




Most of the time the cooling pipes in the center are aluminum.
The tank is probably aluminum.
IF it is ALL copper.. that would be interesting.. might want to try to
'look' inside the tank to SEE those center tube endings.. to make sure they ARE Copper.
100% copper radiator might be heavier then aluminum one.  Not doubting you, just saying... I dunno about the center tubes being copper.

If it is a copper aluminum mix, that explains ' old stock '. Bad mix of metals.
You will definitely need a anti corrosion solution.
I use this stuff CLICK HERE








						Thermaltake UV Sensitive Pre-Mixed Coolant - Micro Center
					

Get it now! Find over 30,000 products at your local Micro Center, including the UV Sensitive Pre-Mixed Coolant 1000 ml - UV Green




					www.microcenter.com
				






I would just Stick it under the tub and flush it out. If the barb collar soldered onto the tank, the opening with the threads ARE rusted.. I would just Tap it out ...home depot will figure out the thread, bring it with you and you will find someone to figure that out for you , unless you just eyeball and try a screw to fit.. then buy the tap for it.. tap it.. vacuum it.

As far as a drain plug You can drill and tap metal aluminum block/steel... screw in a drain.
you can sweat pipe (copper/brass/aluminum) / solder on a drain plug ... a rad tank.

* Radiator shops
* Machine shop.
* Do it yourself.

EDIT: IF you do go to Home Depot, check out the plumbing section for clear tubes  as you can see my set up above a few posts that is Home Depot clear tubes, was on a bottom shelf opposite brass pipe/faucet repair section.
BRING YOUR BARBS WITH YOU!


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## Vlada011 (Jul 6, 2019)

Black Ice Nemesis GTS 360
Heatkiller D5 Tube + D5 WCP Speed Control
Heatkiller IV PRO - Black Copper

If you want quality parts to last long, to use them on few computers this is best available at the moment.
Except that give you best opportunity to change shape of loop, to switch from D5 to DDC Pump, to extend reservoir, it's not acrylic it's glass, massive and quality.
Heatkiller IV Pro CPU Block could be installed on Intel or AMD platform. If you buy for Intel and Switch to AMD you will need only mounting tool.
Nickel plating is excellent, no corrosion problems, CPU block is full metal - copper and black parts are Nickel platted Black.
That's serious durability and performance advantage compare to blocks with POM, Acrylic, etc...
Black Ice Nemesis GTS is best possible watercooling radiator on planet. It's thin but his performance difference compare to thick radiator GTX is so small to sacrifice space. D5 pumps with Speed Control are closer to original Laing made in Germany until 2009 then PWM versions.
This setup is enough for installation GPU later. With GPU temperatures will be OK, but to lowest possible later you will need second radiator.

This is mine setup for next platform because now I have Monoblock for this board and for next motherboard-CPU I don't want to pay more then CPU block.
And mine Poseidon have great temperatures and because of that I gave up from investing in full cover block for GTX1080Ti Strix.










Do it properly or don't build watercooling at all.
These are not Aliexpress parts made for show room RIGs full of RGB, etc and then for next PC you need everything new.
This is chosen to last to be cleaned several times, to give best performance and to look same after 2-3 years and main parts are Made in Germany.


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## Basard (Jul 6, 2019)

@Good3alz  This is the one: http://hardwarelabs.com/blackice/gts/gts-420/    The channels inside look to be copper, the threads and tank are both copper as well--scraped at them a bit to reveal copper goodness.  The box says the structural parts are all brass--I'm assuming they are talking about the outside walls that hold the core. 

I'm pretty sure I can get away with not tapping the threads, there are only a few specs of green on them. 

There are a couple of spots inside the tank I can see that are also partially greened--probably about two square centimeters total.   It looks like some fluid settled in the corner at some point in its life, maybe during the manufacturing process--flushing it out or something--that's where the corrosion is mostly concentrated.

Another interesting note that I discovered while handling it--if you slap the end, it hums like a tuning fork!!

@Vlada011  I just need block, fittings, and tubing now to complete the loop--and another fan for the rad.  

I'm thinking (for a drain) of coming out of my res with a male to male, then a t-junction, 90 degrees off of the t-junction will be male to male to a ball valve that I can attach a cheap barb and tube.  I'll come off straight from the t-junction to my CPU block, then up to the rad.   

As for a CPU block, I was thinking of the XSPC Raystorm Pro.  It's a bit cheaper than the Heatkiller, and performs almost as well.  PLUS it comes with RGB! and a backplate.  I like the looks of it also.


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## phill (Jul 7, 2019)

Do your first custom loop and you'll never go back 





My first custom loop was an amazing thing to do and I'll always use custom water over air in certain cases/builds.  Go with a decent size tube (I use 7/16) with 1/2" barbs, no clamps on them just warm the tube, then when it cools it'll tighten itself on to it.  
If you have spare hardware, make a test setup and try it, won't damage anything then 

If you can, grab a triple rad as a minimum, get some fans your comfortable with with noise (otherwise fan controllers are amazing..  I prefer the basic ones, turn knob on front, speed up or down that simple...) get some proper, well known parts pumps rads etc otherwise you can be wasting money and go for it 
Oh and as @Solaris17 mentioned, get a drain port and you'll save yourself so much time and hassles...  I've a few bits and pieces to sell so if your over in the UK drop me a line if they are of any use 





I've certainly enjoyed my builds with it 

View attachment 849A1282.JPG

One of my personal favourite pics of hardware I own still  
But anyways, hopefully something I've posted helps


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## Basard (Jul 7, 2019)

Seems a little excessive for a 240 rad.   The huge wood frame.  What are those--8800's?


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## phill (Jul 7, 2019)

Basard said:


> Seems a little excessive for a 240 rad.   The huge wood frame.  What are those--8800's?



Well it was the easiest option I had whilst not ripping and damaging the case, I upgraded later to a 360 rad, was a lot better then   After that I went a little on the OTT side of things... But still, I had great fun doing it all    If you think that's a mess, you should see my X99 rig at the moment 

The are EVGA 8800 GT's yes sir   Wished I'd never got rid of them..  First pair of cards that broke the 82k in 3D Mark 01SE with a 775 QX9650 CPU   I was happy until I found that loads of people where hitting 100k plus


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## Basard (Jul 8, 2019)

@phill l Hey, If I had a garage, or basement, My entire case (hell, everything I own) would be made of 2x4's!  

My friend had an 8800GT, I believe it was an evga.  He ended up getting a Xigmatek Battle Axe cooler for it.  The fan speed never adjusted according to temp with the stock cooler--it overheated and crashed all the time.  Those were the days.  Getting rid of them was the best thing you could have done.  LOL, seriously though, they were good and innovative cards for the time.  Too bad the 2900XT sucked so bad.


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## HUSKIE (Jul 8, 2019)

I need to dig in picture of my first Waterloop here back 2008.

There was an aquarium waterpump old thermal take copper block. @phil I remember those 3 pc with loops..

There she is if I remembered I used antifreeze coolant..


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## Basard (Jul 8, 2019)

Cool man.  I'm not sure, but I think I was rockin an X800 AGP in an MSI K9MMV with a 4000+ AMD chip back then.  No fancy cooling though. 

Payday on Friday this week, so middle of next week it should be all together!!


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## Basard (Jul 14, 2019)

I've gotta cart full of stuff ready to finish this build..... Just one last thing I'm wondering.  I'm just going to get distilled water from Piggly Wiggly, what would be the best additive?  I'm thinking this Mayhems Biocide Extreme and distilled water should be good enough, eh?


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## Basard (Jul 16, 2019)

Good news! Parts are coming in tomorrow AND Piggly Wiggly has distiled water on sale for 80 cents a gallon!


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## Basard (Jul 19, 2019)

Done! (sort of)  

I need to purchase some fans for this thing.  I knew going into this that the three Fractal fans that came with my case (900RPM) weren't going to be enough for this radiator--just enough to get the loop going.  I had to stick one of my Silverstone fans on the 'back' of the radiator to clear the stupid IO shielding on my motherboard.  My wife has a couple of 2000+ SP120 fans from Corsair, they are somewhat quiet at high RPM, definitely quieter than my Silverstones at 1500+ (of course they don't move nearly as much air).  

As it stands now, I've shaved about 4-5c off my temps with the water.  That's with the pump and fan speeds at a low setting.  I've got a couple of HWiNFO screenshots of 12 hour load averages for reference:  

Top screenshot is with the SST-HE01, Bottom is with the loop.







VRM temps went up a bit, but this Aorus Master is a savage when it comes to VRM cooling anyways, so no issue there.

And here is a crummy cellphone pic of the setup:





I probably should have gone with a shorter res....  Also, I have a spare Fractal fan (the white ones in the above pic) that I need to install in the front, had to take it out of the back.  I also still have to install the RGB lighting for the CPU block.  All in good time though, perhaps I'll get to a few of the nit-picks this weekend if I'm not too hammered. 

Have a good one guys, and thanks for your inputs.


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## John Naylor (Jul 19, 2019)

MrPerforations said:


> hello,
> EK™ Vardar 120mm fans, cold air is paramount. a 360 AIO and those would be a cpu cooled.
> 
> 
> ...



1.  RPM doesn't chnage air temperature.

2.  This isn't the 1990s with 30 fpi radiators.    With todays 8 - 14 fpi rads, there is no need for 3000 rm fans, unless you want to annoy people in the next room with the noise.   My system tops out at 850 rpm under furmark stress testing GPU temp = 39 C) , fans aren't even spinning as im typing this and in gaming it's 480 - 650 rpm tops.


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## Basard (Jul 19, 2019)

@John Naylor This isn't the 90's and it is a 30 fpi radiator!   http://hardwarelabs.com/blackice/gts/gts-420/

I do agree that there is no need for 3000 RPM fans, my Silverstones are annoying enough at just 1500, however, I should be able to run 1500 without much annoyance if I were to get a more civilized set of fans.


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