# Blow in hole useful for cases?



## tkpenalty (Jan 24, 2007)

Hey guys, I have one of those generic cases and it does not have one of those intake vents (with the retractable vent... pretty good for generic) as well as a grille for the GPU. What I can do is purchase one from the store for $7 AUD. So guys, will it give better performance? If so will adding an 80mm fan to it improve the performance even more? Remember I'm using a CNPS7700CU and right now my case temps are less than satisfying. Will adding 80mm fans near the GPU (two of them) help btw?


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## ex_reven (Jan 24, 2007)

what model is the case?

I had a generic case with a blowhole and vent built by Nexgen
i dont think it offered any performance increase

Leaving the side off the case would obviously be the best way of reducing temps, but i guess you dont want to reduce the aesthetics of your case either

Im sceptical of those cpu retractable vents, because they impede airflow within the case to your other components, particularly blocking any rear fans you may have below the PSU

BTW - Power Colour AC is the win


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## Namslas90 (Jan 24, 2007)

Pulling fresh air into your case can be a good thing.  Make sure you don't disrupt the airflow inside the case though.  It's easy to add a fan and end up pushing hot air from one component into another and reduce the cooling effect.  
Just by adding a northbridge fan to my mobo I shoved hot air from my CPU into my Graphics card and increased temps on the card 8 degrees.  By inverting the same fan to blow away from the graphics card I reduced the card temps by 13 degrees from before adding the fan.  Leaving the side off the case is not the best Idea, because is disrupts airflow.  It can be at times effective; IE, in the winter with the window open.


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## ex_reven (Jan 24, 2007)

Namslas90 said:


> Leaving the side off the case is not the best Idea, because is disrupts airflow.  It can be at times effective; IE, in the winter with the window open.



How can having no side possibly disrupt airflow? 
Unless you have some sort of external force, eg gusts of wind blowing through your case, your airflow should remain the same. Its not like the side FORCES the air to travel over your components and pick up the heat and carry it away, its just the speed and trajectory that the air is going at, which is why other fans can destroy airflow in a poorly designed case.


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## KennyT772 (Jan 24, 2007)

wind tunnel affect. moving air against stagnant air will create drag. my temps actually go up when i remove the case panel due to fan placement and airflow. best thing to do if you think you need a blowhole is to check case temps vs ambient temps. and if there seems to be a lot of hot air coming out of the psu fan a blowhole might be a good idea.


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## PVTCaboose1337 (Jan 24, 2007)

Blow holes in the top are 1337.  Heat rises, so a fan up there does wonders.


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## ex_reven (Jan 24, 2007)

PVTCaboose1337 said:


> Blow holes in the top are 1337.  Heat rises, so a fan up there does wonders.



yeah that works brilliantly, im just skeptical about side vents


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## ex_reven (Jan 24, 2007)

KennyT772 said:


> wind tunnel affect. moving air against stagnant air will create drag. my temps actually go up when i remove the case panel due to fan placement and airflow. best thing to do if you think you need a blowhole is to check case temps vs ambient temps. and if there seems to be a lot of hot air coming out of the psu fan a blowhole might be a good idea.



wont the drag of air in that case be identical or less than the drag created by the side of the case though? I mean, the side of the case is alot more dense than air obviously, and air would be more fluid in carrying the hot air out


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## Namslas90 (Jan 24, 2007)

ex_reven said:


> How can having no side possibly disrupt airflow?
> Unless you have some sort of external force, eg gusts of wind blowing through your case, your airflow should remain the same. Its not like the side FORCES the air to travel over your components and pick up the heat and carry it away, its just the speed and trajectory that the air is going at, which is why other fans can destroy airflow in a poorly designed case.



Don't forget pressures also move/block air flow and tempratures affect pressures.  Ambient vs. Internal.  Not everyone lives outside where the wind is blowing, and if it blows against the case the wrong way it can reduce the airflow to the inside.


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## ex_reven (Jan 24, 2007)

sigh
if only water cooling was cheap


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## Namslas90 (Jan 24, 2007)

ex_reven said:


> sigh
> if only water cooling was cheap



OR

If only fans were quiet!


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## ex_reven (Jan 24, 2007)

having quiet fans is possible...but its alot of work
id imagine youd need to replace bearings, clean them and oil them quite regularly

which makes watercooling seem so much more convenient


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## Namslas90 (Jan 24, 2007)

Fans also wear out faster than water pumps.  Both cooling types take work and time; blowholes are a good shortcut.


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## tkpenalty (Jan 24, 2007)

ex_reven said:


> having quiet fans is possible...but its alot of work
> id imagine youd need to replace bearings, clean them and oil them quite regularly
> 
> which makes watercooling seem so much more convenient



You sure? What if it leaks man... what if the pump fails? Thats even worse because the heatsinks inside the waterblock are tiny.


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## ex_reven (Jan 24, 2007)

theres risks involved with everything you do in a computer system
if you take enough due care, everything should run as advertised

pump failure is just as prevalent as fan failure if not less common?
and ive never had a fan die on me yet, even noname brand ones

i guess its down to luck


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## tkpenalty (Jan 24, 2007)

Back on topic, I've heard forced intakes actually dregrade cooling performance.... is that true? 

Btw its 80mm > 120mm Zalman.


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## Carcenomy (Jan 24, 2007)

As far as I'm aware, the blowholes with the retractable duct were designed to meet Intel's thermal spec for LGA775s, they work okay on the stock Intel cooler, but with anything bigger and beefier, chances are it's not gonna help a great deal.

As for the side on/off thing, the air can lose velocity as it's no longer being channeled by the solid side panel. Instead of being confined to the inside of the case, your air is buggering off out the side, diminishing the cooling effect.

This is also why I disagree with cases that are touted as being 'great for cooling' because they're very meshy and resemble swiss cheese. IMHO it's better to seal excess holes, forcing the air to enter/exit through the appropriate fan holes rather than swirl around aimlessly entering/exiting through randomly placed holes in the case.

TK, don't worry too much about sidepanel blowholes etc, good front intake, rear exhaust and a top blowhole will see you right.


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## Darknova (Jan 24, 2007)

I recently added a side intake fan over my graphics card because I had a hotspot just below it. Temp has dropped 4'C at load, 6'C at idle, and Case temp has dropped 2'C. It's located in the botton right of the side so doesn't impede flow to or from other components.


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## lemonadesoda (Jan 24, 2007)

Top Tips:

1./ Dont worry about SUCKING air into the case. Let it draw in (so long as you have sufficient openings near the bottom of the case)

2./ BLOW air OUT of the case near the top.  A good PSU fan is important... and an exit fan near the CPU is important

3./ An exit fan near the CPU, plus a silent CPU fan IS MORE EFFECTIVE than NO exit fan, but a high performance fan on the CPU

4./ Remember you want to make ambient temperatures (within the case) as low as possible. There is no point having super large coolers on the GPU and the CPU if the hot air is stuck in the case

5./ I have found that standing a case upright (rather then lying in desktop) is much more effective

6./ Take out your m/b.  Get a drill with a (8mm or 10 mm) metal bit.  Drill 100 holes in the BOTTOM of the case... where no one sees them... but it allows air to draw in at the bottom, and get blown out the top by PSU or CPU exit fan.  Also put "feet" onto case, so case is at least 2cm off the floor/carpet.


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## Carcenomy (Jan 25, 2007)

Cobblers - swiss cheese a good case does not make.

Do performance car guys think 'hmmm I need better airflow, I'll just drill 100 or so 10mm holes where nobody is looking'? No. They replace the air filter with something that flows better, increase the size of the intake tubing and plenum and eventually clean up and enlarge the ports.

All things relative. There's not much difference between air flowing through an engine's intake and air flowing through a computer case. As such I still firmly believe well placed ducting is far, far superior to this notion of hole drilling and upright cases. If top blowholes are such a great idea because heat rises, why would a desktop case NOT be a good idea (if you fitted plenty of top vent holes)?


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## tkpenalty (Jan 25, 2007)

lemonadesoda said:


> Top Tips:
> 
> 1./ Dont worry about SUCKING air into the case. Let it draw in (so long as you have sufficient openings near the bottom of the case)
> 
> ...



Um... first off, 

1. The case has a 92mm intake at the front, and a 92mm outtake in the rear, next to the CPU, these are ZM-F2 92mm (full speed) and they move HEAPS of air at full RPM

2. 120mm Coolermaster iGreen PSU fan

3. Um... duh, I'm not that dumb.

4. Intake fan takes in cool air. There are some preforations on the side panel and there is some minimal suction (Not enough IMHO)

5. Wtf does that mean? I have a mid tower not a piece of fucked up dell. 

6. Holes??? Wtf... I don't want to pwn my case with holes because I suck at drilling. Would cutting some of the base out (not under HDD) then replacing it with an aluminium honeycomb work better (It would look better LOL than drilling). I must comment though, In doing that, you would seriously damage the structural integrity of the case.

Also I don't have a flat-lying case anyway. 

Okay man... I get it but I'm asking if a intake vent (the suck-in t
ube, I have a CNPS7700CU, btw) Will improve performance, what I am guessing is yes because the CNPS 7700CU pulls huge amounts of air. 

I'm not making the side panel, I'm replacing it. I've heard in some cases (no pun intended) that the Suck-in vents with an 80mm fan installed actually degrades the ambient temps.



Carcenomy said:


> Cobblers - swiss cheese a good case does not make.
> 
> Do performance car guys think 'hmmm I need better airflow, I'll just drill 100 or so 10mm holes where nobody is looking'? No. They replace the air filter with something that flows better, increase the size of the intake tubing and plenum and eventually clean up and enlarge the ports.
> 
> All things relative. There's not much difference between air flowing through an engine's intake and air flowing through a computer case. As such I still firmly believe well placed ducting is far, far superior to this notion of hole drilling and upright cases. If top blowholes are such a great idea because heat rises, why would a desktop case NOT be a good idea (if you fitted plenty of top vent holes)?



Sometimes when people say that... I wonder, why do we need a case for a PC anyway? Why can't we just lay the parts on a piece of foam?
Yeh... Car engines are similar to a PC's interior in terms of thermal management-except they are a step ahead. A duct fan forced intake should be called a turbocharger lol... its similar. Pump more cool air in to increase efficiency lol.


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## Carcenomy (Jan 25, 2007)

With your 7700 you probably will see an increase in ambient temp if you run the intake tube type deal.

The only trouble with having a pile of parts on a piece of foam is protection - there's nothing stopping your components being damaged. That's why if you wanna try things like that, get one of those snazzy frames that shop techs use on test benches. But again, no good long term, the machine can't really be moved easily as parts - imagine turning up to a LAN and having to assemble it on the spot, then what would happen if someone trips on a lead and sends the motherboard hurtling to the ground... 

It's all a compromise but it's one that ends up working well with some clever implementation.


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## tkpenalty (Jan 26, 2007)

Carcenomy said:


> With your 7700 you probably will see an increase in ambient temp if you run the intake tube type deal.
> 
> The only trouble with having a pile of parts on a piece of foam is protection - there's nothing stopping your components being damaged. That's why if you wanna try things like that, get one of those snazzy frames that shop techs use on test benches. But again, no good long term, the machine can't really be moved easily as parts - imagine turning up to a LAN and having to assemble it on the spot, then what would happen if someone trips on a lead and sends the motherboard hurtling to the ground...
> 
> It's all a compromise but it's one that ends up working well with some clever implementation.



WTF? Btw, my CNPS7700 is dying from a lack of air, there is  one 3000RPM 92mm Zalman fan next to it and a 120mm fan above it, I think it would improve performance, how will it decrease it anyway? Diagram?

How about the grilles next to the GPU? I'm using an Accelero X2 and to mount the GPU fans I will have to mount them on the outside (not a problem though, it will look great with an 80mm fan grille LOL), should they be blowing in or sucking out? Theres a lot of air accumulating around the GPU area although its the only thing thats there. 

Fans/Cooling. 

92mm Zalman 3000RPM Drive bay under-bezel intake (I made the hole bigger for more air) (making a woosh, the tiny sound is being amplified by the case)

92mm Zalman 3000RPM Rear Outtake, on silent mode it still moves so much air compared to my "best" 80mm fan, starving the CNPS7700CU of fresh air.

120mm Coolermaster iGreen fan above the CNPS7700CU.

Stock northbridge heatsink, with AS5... how do I burn in a northbridge? I'm using AS5 on it lol... wait... the temps dropped like 2*C over the past two days... thats good . 

Btw, I think Zalman's aluminium northbridges (except for the compressed aluminium version) are only replacements for the northbridges with faulty fans. Do Zalman northbridges perform better than stock northbridges of the similar size anyway? Everyone goes "Oh I got a thermaltake <insert NB cooler here> and all this shit, but never answer my question.

Btw, um... would my cooling get affected if my X1950PRO and HDD left a small 5cm space between each other? My 92mm fan is completely under the HDD and I think the air is only going to stay low (blocked by HDD?). Should I mount the HDD lower? Like where the motor is.

Temps so far:

CPU:

Load: Don't know probably 50*C... seems too hot but the AS5 right now is equivalent to some cheap generic crap which takes 3hours to settle in, need to burn in. 
Idle: 40*C

System: 

Load: Nearly 48*C, thats why I need the vent anyway.
Idle: 40*C to 43*C

NB:

Load: 45*C
Idle: 40*C to 42*C

GPU: 

47*C Load
40*C Idle, pretty cool. 

It seems too hot for the rest...So what would happen if I:

-Installed the duct+grille side panel.
-Installed the ducting + 80mm fan
-Installed 2x80mm fan on the grilles.
-Both of them simulatneously.


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## Carcenomy (Jan 27, 2007)

This blowhole you talk of, I may have it messed up. Are you wanting just a grille in the side or using the extendable P4 LGA775 style extendable duct? The reason I say your ambients may rise in such a setup, is that the airflow to your 7700 will be solely from that tube, which isn't really ideal.

Pop in a top hole for starters, and if you want side panel fans, sure thing - although in the past they haven't really helped me.

As for the drive and card thing... you could definitely move the drive down a few bays, give more room for airflow - the last thing you need is to partition off your intake air 

Quite intriguing looking at your temps versus mine... mine's ~38°C CPU at idle, raises to about 47° under heavy load with the 9500AT w/ AS5. Chipset stays at a constant 25°. GPU sits at about 36° with the VF700CU-LED w/ AS5 too. I'm running 120mm ACRyan BlackFire4 in the front, 80mm Titan cheap crap from DSE in the back. No side fan, no blow hole.

Move that drive around a bit and report back. Feel free to gimme a bell on MSN if there's anything you wanna discuss.


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## tkpenalty (Jan 28, 2007)

Okay... I moved the HDD down and swapped out the normal molex connector for a SATA Power connector (Behind the drivebays; from open side viewing, That part is almost EMPTY now. Then removed the rear backplates, I think I will have to use features that Ketxxx used in prowler; i.e. top expansion slot cool air duct.

After doing all that... WOWOWOWOWOWOWOOW!!!! 36*C Idle FTW!

But Carcenmony, isn't your motherboard a P965 Chipset motherboard the northbridge obviously runs cooler.

What I'm trying to say is that the CNPS7700CU needs more air to cool the processor (as well as the other parts) because my 92mm fan is nearly doing more suction than my CNPS7700CU, does anyone know where I can buy a Zalman Fatal1ty replacement fan from? (Much Higher RPM).


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## ex_reven (Jan 28, 2007)

tk have you heard of staticice.com?

if not, search fatality there


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## tkpenalty (Jan 28, 2007)

Yeah I have, should I buy the Evercool FOX-1 to position under my X1950PRO (with acceleroX2)? I think this will help since the air gets trapped. How many slots away should I postition the Evercool FOX-1 GPU?


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## ex_reven (Jan 28, 2007)

you couldnt find it there? or just not a decent price?


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## tkpenalty (Jan 28, 2007)

ex_reven said:


> you couldnt find it there? or just not a decent price?



Um I just want the fan, not the copper heatsink.


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## ex_reven (Jan 28, 2007)

tkpenalty said:


> Um I just want the fan, not the copper heatsink.



so?
you can sometimes find replacement parts there.


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## OneCool (Jan 28, 2007)

Dont drool on my case!!!


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## ex_reven (Jan 28, 2007)

OneCool said:


> Dont drool on my case!!!



ummm random?


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## tkpenalty (Jan 28, 2007)

OneCool said:


> Dont drool on my case!!!



Don't hijack my thread! Post that in the case gallery... geez, I want help, not some picture of your case. Whats worse is that the fact that the case looks ugly tbh.


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## ex_reven (Jan 28, 2007)

tkpenalty said:


> Don't hijack my thread! Post that in the case gallery... geez, I want help, not some picture of your case. Whats worse is that the fact that the case looks ugly tbh.



agreed....it looks like a hunk of plastic with a metal roof for a helicopter to land on.

and with that kind of setup, couldnt you have afforded a much better case?


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## lemonadesoda (Jan 28, 2007)

Carcenomy said:


> Do performance car guys think 'hmmm I need better airflow, I'll just drill 100 or so 10mm holes where nobody is looking'? No. They replace the air filter with something that flows better, increase the size of the intake tubing and plenum and eventually clean up and enlarge the ports.
> 
> All things relative. There's not much difference between air flowing through an engine's intake and air flowing through a computer case. As such I still firmly believe well placed ducting is far, far superior to this notion of hole drilling and upright cases. If top blowholes are such a great idea because heat rises, why would a desktop case NOT be a good idea (if you fitted plenty of top vent holes)?



 

You clearly dont know nothing about car performance, and its not very clever to compare an induction system with airflow in a PC case. LOL    

If you LIKE CARS, then try thinking about how the "hot/cold" air on your dashboard works, and how the vents that blow work.  The analogy is much better, and you might be able to get your facts right!   Stay away from comments about N/A, superchargers, turbos, or engine management... other than it makes the car go "vroom"... or your comments will be ridiculed


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## lemonadesoda (Jan 28, 2007)

FYI, Northwood 2.8 overclock to 3.0, Idle


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## tkpenalty (Jan 28, 2007)

ex_reven said:


> agreed....it looks like a hunk of plastic with a metal roof for a helicopter to land on.
> 
> and with that kind of setup, couldnt you have afforded a much better case?



That top plate is probably to cover his clumsy dremel work.



lemonadesoda said:


> You clearly dont know nothing about car performance, and its not very clever to compare an induction system with airflow in a PC case. LOL
> 
> If you LIKE CARS, then try thinking about how the "hot/cold" air on your dashboard works, and how the vents that blow work.  The analogy is much better, and you might be able to get your facts right!   Stay away from comments about N/A, superchargers, turbos, or engine management... other than it makes the car go "vroom"... or your comments will be ridiculed



LOL Cars don't run on air cooling these days anyway, only the radiator does. You can compare a car to a water cooling system but not air cooling. Unless you are talking about porches or formula 1s. I was going to comment but I left it for someone else....

Carcemony how old are you? There aren't any intakes on a car LOL, just the front grille for looks and the radiator. There are ports but they are for fuel injection. 

Carcemony, TURBOs just increase the power by increasing the amount of oxygen pumped into the engine so the fuel is more volatile when compressed, using the exaust pressure to spin the turbine, while the Supercharger uses engine's RPMs. 

Back on topic guys.... I  ROTARIES LOL!

Would a blower work better than free airflow for the GPU?


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## lemonadesoda (Jan 28, 2007)

Top Tips updated for comments above:

1./ Dont worry about SUCKING air into the case. Let it draw in (so long as you have sufficient openings near the bottom of the case) _- If you have a duct system... then a push and a suck system IS better... but only within the duct. It wont reduce ambient temperatures of the mb or other components_

2./ BLOW air OUT of the case near the top. A good PSU fan is important... and an exit fan near the CPU is important

3./ An exit fan near the CPU, plus a silent CPU fan IS MORE EFFECTIVE than NO exit fan, but a high performance fan on the CPU_ - this comment is added for other readers who might not be aware of this fact and are buying ever bigger and faster CPU coolers but haven't yet installed a case exit fan near the CPU... a common oversight_

4./ Remember you want to make ambient temperatures (within the case) as low as possible. There is no point having super large coolers on the GPU and the CPU if the hot air is stuck in the case

5./ I have found that standing a case upright (rather then lying in desktop) is much more effective _- its amazing how many PC's are "desktop" format... or indeed shuttle format. One way of instantly improving cooling performance is to swap the case for an upright case_

6./ Take out your m/b. Get a drill with a (8mm or 10 mm) metal bit. Drill 100 holes in the BOTTOM of the case... where no one sees them... but it allows air to draw in at the bottom, and get blown out the top by PSU or CPU exit fan. Also put "feet" onto case, so case is at least 2cm off the floor/carpet. _- I recommend drilling because in the end it is quicker and cheaper and retains more structural integrity than dremeling out a big hole. The 10mm holes are big enough to allow air to draw in easily, but small enough to stop fingers getting in.  An alternative is to dremel a big hole, and then screw in place a metal mesh.  What is important to remember is that the airflow TO the underside of the case where this (these) new holes are needs to be clear. Hence raise the case a few cm with "tall feet"._

7./ A duct system is usually very effective (like you get on some dual slot GPU coolers), but then making a duct system is a pain in the arse... and it only cools the items within the duct

8./ There is no point having fans creating lots of turbulance WITHIN the case... just get the hot air out asap... and let cool air replace the ejected hot air

9./ Sometimes hotspots still exist... like the HDDs.  Try to put as much space between HDDs as possible (don't sandwich). If you have a backup drive in the case, put it on power save mode... so that it spins down when not used

p.s. all my suggests are to create an effective balance of cooling vs. silence. There are more "brutal" cooling methods, but they add more noise disproportionately and are not as effective in a "cooling factor/number of fans" ratio. See my post above with the screenshot of temps. My case is very quiet and cool. Unfortunately, I DO HAVE a hotspot on the primary HDD.  But there is not much I can do about it.  I'm out of space and the HDD is sandwiched.


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## tkpenalty (Jan 29, 2007)

lemonadesoda said:


> FYI, Northwood 2.8 overclock to 3.0, Idle



>_> FYI, Northwood sensors are extremely inacurrate.


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## Carcenomy (Jan 29, 2007)

Well what do YOU call the intake manifold, intake plenum, throttle body, intake hose and airbox? Oh... it's the INTAKE SYSTEM. Rotary, aircooled, watercooled, V8, four-pot... no difference, they all have an intake system of some kind.

TK, maybe it's time to upgrade from the 7700?


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## Zubasa (Jan 29, 2007)

tkpenalty said:


> >_> FYI, Northwood sensors are extremely inacurrate.


Nah, they are perfectly accurate. 
(Yes they show the AMBIENT TEMP NOT THE DIE TEMP   )
SO the core is on fire basically


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## tkpenalty (Jan 29, 2007)

Carcenomy said:


> Well what do YOU call the intake manifold, intake plenum, throttle body, intake hose and airbox? Oh... it's the INTAKE SYSTEM. Rotary, aircooled, watercooled, V8, four-pot... no difference, they all have an intake system of some kind.
> 
> TK, maybe it's time to upgrade from the 7700?



Learn a bit more about cars... Do you even know what a wankel is? Let alone what the radiator does? Cars these days don't have "Intake manifolds" to cool the engine, games have that to sound cool . Four-pot... wtf is that? Air cooled cars are RARE, while water cooled are the standard type... 

All that stuff does not relate together you know? Rotary is a ENGINE type, Four port (fuel ports?) Fuel injection ports, V8 = DOHC with 4 cylinders per cam. V4 = SOHC with 4 cylinders per cam (single cam). V12 = DOHC with 6 Cylinders per cam. Air cooling is a thing of the past as it uses fans all over the car to pump hot air out... these cars are rare as it is inneficient and uses a lot of petrol. Water cooling is easier and uses less energy as there is only one fan required; the radiator fan. A rotary engine is a different kind of engine, all because I mentioned it it doesn't mean you have to add it to your vocabulary, they are petrol guzzlers and are simple, produce crazy amounts of torque for their size (they are tiny). The newer revision, renesis (made by mazda, in the RX8), is petrol efficient and still powerful. Please don't think you are smart because you know a few words. It just makes people like me wanting to correct you.

In the current configuration NO... 9500AT Seems too expensive and the 9700, obviously NO. Have a thought about it... it doesnt even blow air on the RAM, PVMs, NB, mofsets, I wouldn't use it becasue I don't have an active cooling solution anyway for the NB(its too noisy as well). If I had a P965 I would have chosen the CNPS7700 but I have a 975X Chipset motherboard.

Trust me... those temps are way off.. I have a 3.2 Northwood and I know how much heat it pumps out;  a bit less than core 2 duo.


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## Carcenomy (Feb 2, 2007)

TK... you're not entirely understanding me here.

On an engine, you have an intake system. This comprises of the intake manifold, this can either be a traditional one with a carburettor installed, or an intake plenum with injectors, plus the intake tubing and air filter system. Yes, yes I do know what a Wankel is, I'm a Mazda enthusiast and do know that NSU built rotary powered cars far earlier in the piece. In any intake system, it needs to be designed to flow well, especially at high RPM. If it doesn't, you starve the engine of the precious air it needs to make a complete mixture. That's why many enthusiasts run a CAI setup with a pod filter of some description and more thorough guys go for a port/polish of the intake and exhaust ports on the engine's head.

9500ATs work good, that's what I run. Air circulates through the fins in a radial motion and cool the MOSFETs and such etc really well. Who's temps are off, btw?


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