# How to make a waterproof wire splice?



## Sasqui (May 2, 2013)

Here's the situation.  I'm building a small hydroponic garden setup and have a float switch to shut a DCC-1 pump off if the water lever gets low.  This is to prevent the pump from running dry and destroying it.

The float switch was taken off a burnt out sump pump and the wire connectng is only about 1' long.  It's got 3x 14 or 16 gage conductors (one conductor is a ground), and a thick jacket.  I plan to connect a long pair of 20 gage wires to it, which will go to two molex connectors (male and female) where the pump and 12v supply will be housed.

How would I connect the float switch wires to the 20 gage wires and create a waterproof seal?  I have plenty of heatshrink tubing (all sorts of sizes), but that alone won't be waterproof.

And... I plan on growing spinach and lettuce, really!


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## brandonwh64 (May 2, 2013)

Vasoline! It works great for connectors to be water proof.


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## Fourstaff (May 2, 2013)

Duct tape. It works on anything.


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## Sasqui (May 2, 2013)

brandonwh64 said:


> Vasoline! It works great for connectors to be water proof.



I have some scotch-lok telephone connectors that are filled with something like vaseline, but that's more for moisture than immersion.



Fourstaff said:


> Duct tape. It works on anything.



I hope I don't have to resort to that.

I was thinking of slathering silicone over the wires before sliding the heatshrink tubing on and putting the heatgun to it.


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## de.das.dude (May 2, 2013)

liquid eletric tape.

nailpolish


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## Sasqui (May 2, 2013)

de.das.dude said:


> liquid eletric tape



Spot on!  I never even heard of it:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-4-fl-oz-Liquid-Electrical-Tape-LTB-400/100119178


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## FreedomEclipse (May 2, 2013)

some hot glue (get a glue gun)


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## Sasqui (May 2, 2013)

FreedomEclipse said:


> some hot glue (get a glue gun)



I have two glue guns... I'm going to get the liquid electrical tape.  There is one other spot I know I can use it on!


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## FreedomEclipse (May 2, 2013)

Sasqui said:


> I have two glue guns... I'm going to get the liquid electrical tape.  There is one other spot I know I can use it on!



but but but... you can pretend that youre so kewl by dual wielding 2 glue guns.


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## Sasqui (May 2, 2013)

FreedomEclipse said:


> but but but... you can pretend that youre so kewl by dual wielding 2 glue guns.


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## erocker (May 2, 2013)

de.das.dude said:


> liquid eletric tape.



My suggestion as well.


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## Arctucas (May 2, 2013)

http://www.delcity.net/store/Heat-Shrink-Butt-Connectors/p_805404

You can probably find these at your local auto parts store.


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## Bo$$ (May 2, 2013)

de.das.dude said:


> liquid eletric tape.



really nice find that


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## de.das.dude (May 3, 2013)

its pretty well known, infact i came to know about it from here somewhere a long long time ago.


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## AsRock (May 3, 2013)

I use this GARDNER-BENDER BLACK ELECTRICAL LIQUID although this is on on RC cars but still..

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FPAN2K/?tag=tec06d-20



de.das.dude said:


> liquid eletric tape.
> 
> nailpolish



Yeah i use the above one. As long as the wire is not submerged all the time..


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## de.das.dude (May 3, 2013)

PS nailpolish works just as well.


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## Jetster (May 3, 2013)

heat shrink with rubber linining


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## Dia01 (May 3, 2013)

Glue filled heatshrink.  Aussie link though a product should exist where you are similar.

http://www.cabac.com.au/products/heatshrink/xdw-thinwall-glue-lined


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## Aquinus (May 3, 2013)

Once you do find whatever you're going to use would you be willing to throw a picture up so we can see how it turned out? I'm curious how it's going to look when you're done.


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## Sasqui (May 3, 2013)

AsRock said:


> I use this GARDNER-BENDER BLACK ELECTRICAL LIQUID although this is on on RC cars but still..
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FPAN2K/?tag=tec06d-20
> 
> Yeah i use the above one. As long as the wire is not submerged all the time..





Aquinus said:


> Once you do find whatever you're going to use would you be willing to throw a picture up so we can see how it turned out? I'm curious how it's going to look when you're done.



First, I've got a large collection of heatshrink tubing, all sizes, and I bought this at Lowes last night:








> 1-in x 1-ft General Duty Electrical Tape
> •Insulate and splice electrical wires with the Gardner Bender 4 fl. oz. black electrical tape
> •The waterproof formula resists damage caused by chemicals and UV rays
> •Liquid "paint on" application doesn't unravel or deteriorate like traditional electrical tape
> ...



So, between the two, it should do the trick!  I might be able to mess with it tonight and if I can find the time, I'll post some pics or a video.


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## lilhasselhoffer (May 3, 2013)

The liquid electric tape is not a solution.  While it is a polymer, it doesn't like wide temperature shifts, and eventually cracks.  

The heat shrink tubing is one solution, but you need to take a few precautions.  Do each wire individually, do an in-line wire splice, leave 2-3" extra (minimum) on each side of the splices, and heat shrink the wire bundle separate.  This method makes a section that still has some flexibility, but is water resistant,

Why not just get connectors that are designed to be water proof?  Like these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-Waterproof-Wire-Connectors-5-Pack-30-062/100564891#.UYPVtUrc5Hg   Or maybe these: http://www.amazon.com/Products-62125-Waterproof-Connectors-25-Pack/dp/B000BW0YFS  (home depot and amazon links respectively)


Nail polish is too brittle.  

Glue gun glue is a redneck solution.  It gets the job done, but it isn't exactly going to be an aesthetically pleasing solution.


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## de.das.dude (May 3, 2013)

i use epoxy nowadays. it the best. but takes time to set 

there is a kind of paint called plasti dip. that is worth a shot. but liquid electric tape works AFAIK


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## Iceni (May 3, 2013)

Sounds complicated. I'd have used a wine bottle on string with a PTM switch at the top of the string.... When it gets to the correct level the bottle floats and the switch turns off.

You can do the same in reverse you just need a longer string and the reverse action switch..... When the water gets too low the bottle stops floating and breaks the connection.


That way all electronic components are well out of the reach of liquids.


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## Sasqui (May 3, 2013)

Iceni said:


> Sounds complicated. I'd have used a wine bottle on string with a PTM switch at the top of the string.... When it gets to the correct level the bottle floats and the switch turns off.
> 
> You can do the same in reverse you just need a longer string and the reverse action switch.....
> 
> ...



The float switch I have is quite simple and reliable. The splice won't be underwater and is only handling 12v max 5 amps (limit of the PSU brick).

Now I _have _to post pics!


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## Iceni (May 3, 2013)

If it's just a connector housing your making that needs to be watertight I would use candle wax.

It's cheap remove-able, doesn't degrade easily and you can drop the splice into a connector housing then just pour the wax over the top and let it set.


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## AsRock (May 3, 2013)

lilhasselhoffer said:


> The liquid electric tape is not a solution.  While it is a polymer, it doesn't like wide temperature shifts, and eventually cracks.
> 
> The heat shrink tubing is one solution, but you need to take a few precautions.  Do each wire individually, do an in-line wire splice, leave 2-3" extra (minimum) on each side of the splices, and heat shrink the wire bundle separate.  This method makes a section that still has some flexibility, but is water resistant,
> 
> ...



As long as the water and heat is not constant it should be fine, i know i only used it on RC cars but the ESC get really hot and water around them for a short while.

How to water proof ANY heat sinked ESC - YouTube


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## Sasqui (May 3, 2013)

AsRock said:


> As long as the water and heat is not constant it should be fine, i know i only used it on RC cars but the ESC get really hot and water around them for a short while.
> 
> How to water proof ANY heat sinked ESC - YouTube



That's the stuff!


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## Arctucas (May 3, 2013)

Seriously, the heat-shrink butt splices I linked to are what you need.

You can usually buy 3-5 for about $5.

All you need is a crimp tool and a hair dryer.

I have used these in automotive applications both in the engine compartment where temperatures get very high, as well as under vehicles where they were exposed to water, salt, road grime, etc.

I never had one fail.


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## Sasqui (May 4, 2013)

Here's the float with it's pigtail and wire I'm attaching it to.  The wire goes to black Molex shunt.

The challenge:  Keep the pigtail waterproof.







Close-up of the pigtail and wire I'm attaching:






I LOVE in-line spell check!!!


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## de.das.dude (May 4, 2013)

i would heatshirnk and fill it with epoxy. and then heat the shrink on.

try to solder them end to end. un-twine the wires a bit, mesh them in end to end and then twist them again..

dont forget to put the heatshrink in first #LFMF


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## Sasqui (May 5, 2013)

de.das.dude said:


> dont forget to put the heatshrink in first #LFMF



That's the hardest part, LOL!


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## de.das.dude (May 5, 2013)

why is it hard.. just slide it to somewhere where the heat cant get it.


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## Sasqui (May 6, 2013)

de.das.dude said:


> why is it hard..



Remembering to to put the heashrink on BEFORE soldering!


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## de.das.dude (May 6, 2013)

lol.  i learnt that trhough fail when sleeving some fans. fortunately fan connector pins are easy to disassemble.


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## Sasqui (May 6, 2013)

de.das.dude said:


> lol.  i learnt that trhough fail



I'ts the best way to learn, but I still find myself doing it 

BTW, the pigtail with 5 layers of shrinkwrap and doused with liquid tape is looking pretty good.  Hope to post a pic this evening.

One other thing I learned...  I always thought the red wire was +12v, when in fact, the red wire is +5v and the YELLOW wire is +12v.  Glad I double checked!!!


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## de.das.dude (May 6, 2013)

yes its weird. i used to think the red was 12v too but found out after i go a multimeter.


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## Frederik S (May 6, 2013)

The heavy duty heat shrink with glue used for outdoor electrical appliances should do the trick.


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## Arctucas (May 6, 2013)

Frederik S said:


> The heavy duty heat shrink with glue used for outdoor electrical appliances should do the trick.



Like what is in the splices I mentioned...


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## Clexxy (Feb 3, 2015)

*[RE: HOT-GLUE] - Be Advised -*

Even though it has been almost 10 years since the start this thread, I managed to arrive here as the search engine I utilized returned this as a "Top Pick."  I fully assume that the original poster has come to a working solution for this, but for future adventurers to this thread I truly feel it is best to add a little knowledge.

While hot-glue seems to be, by all account, hydrophobic; extended exposure of the glue to water (either a single stretch or repeated exposure) will severely degrade its adhesive properties, as well as its "solid" form.  Before to long, the glue will start to congeal (turn into a gel-like goop).  This can be obviously turn hazardous and present a fire/bodily danger.

Additionally, the introduction of oil-base water-repellents, for example; mineral oil, Vaseline, WD-40, to the glue once it has cured and hardened, will intensify and expedite the glues adherence away from the materials you may be attempting to keep separate of the water and other elements.

If someone was to submerge a product that has been affixed and "sealed" by using hot-glue, the overall catastrophic failure of the project would be fairly quickly (a matter of days at the most considering constant exposure).

My recommendation is to start with all materials clean and free of dust and oils, then adhere pure silicone sealant, allowing time for the full cureation before progressing to environmental exposure.  Be sure to check the label such that additional native elements in the environment you plan to introduce your project to, will not interfere with silicone sealant.

I hope this is helpful to any future visitors of this thread and note that my intention was not to point fingers at a 10 year old post, but to provide tips and add a cautionary recommendation to those who may land here.


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## ste2425 (Feb 3, 2015)

Clexxy said:


> *[RE: HOT-GLUE] - Be Advised -*
> 
> Even though it has been almost 10 years since the start this thread, I managed to arrive here as the search engine I utilized returned this as a "Top Pick."  I fully assume that the original poster has come to a working solution for this, but for future adventurers to this thread I truly feel it is best to add a little knowledge.
> 
> ...



Thats why i use instant gasket when doing such work of the cars wiring Loom. Solder, instant gasket with heat-shrink over the top.


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## ne6togadno (Feb 3, 2015)

i know i am late but for next time you need something like this
http://www.molex.com/molex/products/group?channel=PRODUCTS&key=sealed_connectors

or any of those
https://www.google.com/search?q=ip6...ygagL&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&biw=1920&bih=1079&dpr=1


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## ste2425 (Feb 3, 2015)

ne6togadno said:


> i know i am late but for next time you need something like this
> http://www.molex.com/molex/products/group?channel=PRODUCTS&key=sealed_connectors
> 
> or any of those
> https://www.google.com/search?q=ip67 connector&source=lnms&sa=X&ei=88fQVOvjDcj8UMiygagL&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&biw=1920&bih=1079&dpr=1



Wish i new about that website when having to replace half the Megane's wiring loom thanks to water ingress.


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## brandonwh64 (Feb 3, 2015)

Clexxy said:


> Even though it has been almost 10 years since the start this thread.......



2013-2015 = 10 years...


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## eidairaman1 (Feb 3, 2015)

Electronic grade silicone sealant/adhesive over shrink tube


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## ne6togadno (Feb 3, 2015)

ste2425 said:


> Wish i new about that website when having to replace half the Megane's wiring loom thanks to water ingress.


there are also other companies that offer ip67 solutions if nothing from molex can fit your needs - harting for example
poblem is that most of ip67 solutions is industry oriented and often require expencieve tooling to assemble em.


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## Schmuckley (Feb 3, 2015)

several layers of LET
I used it on my washing machine.


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## Mussels (Feb 4, 2015)

If you're telstra (the company in charge of australian phone lines) you just twist em together and duct tape them inside an empty coke bottle.


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## eidairaman1 (Feb 4, 2015)

Mussels said:


> If you're telstra (the company in charge of australian phone lines) you just twist em together and duct tape them inside an empty coke bottle.



3m scotchlocks lol


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## Steevo (Feb 4, 2015)

Sasqui said:


> Here's the situation.  I'm building a small hydroponic garden setup and have a float switch to shut a DCC-1 pump off if the water lever gets low.  This is to prevent the pump from running dry and destroying it.
> 
> The float switch was taken off a burnt out sump pump and the wire connectng is only about 1' long.  It's got 3x 14 or 16 gage conductors (one conductor is a ground), and a thick jacket.  I plan to connect a long pair of 20 gage wires to it, which will go to two molex connectors (male and female) where the pump and 12v supply will be housed.
> 
> ...


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IEFOCRK/?tag=tec06d-20

I use these. Napa has them too.


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## Arctucas (Feb 4, 2015)

Steevo said:


> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IEFOCRK/?tag=tec06d-20
> 
> I use these. Napa has them too.



Like I said; http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/how-to-make-a-waterproof-wire-splice.183458/#post-2895551

Jeez...

@Clexxy,

I have some of the splices that I liked to over 18 years old under my 4x4, and after all those years of salt, snow, rain, mud, etc. they are still holding up.

Just sayin'...


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## Steevo (Feb 5, 2015)

Arctucas said:


> Like I said; http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/how-to-make-a-waterproof-wire-splice.183458/#post-2895551
> 
> Jeez...
> 
> ...




Just sayin, a crimp VS solder connector strength and transmission are far different. I work with 5V CAN systems, and the only splice approved for use is the one I listed, it will stand up to mechanical stress, water, chemicals, and transmit voltage and signals more reliably than any crimp connector made, the only alternative is to install a Deutsch connector with the approved radial crimp tool http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0075P88IY/?tag=tec06d-20 for the pins http://www.newark.com/deutsch/0462-203-12141/crimp-contact-socket-12-14awg/dp/91R1818?mckv=sDgDIZ7EE|pcrid|57087226941|plid|&CMP=KNC-GPLA https://laddinc.com/


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## OneMoar (Feb 5, 2015)




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## Arctucas (Feb 5, 2015)

Steevo said:


> Just sayin, a crimp VS solder connector strength and transmission are far different. I work with 5V CAN systems, and the only splice approved for use is the one I listed, it will stand up to mechanical stress, water, chemicals, and transmit voltage and signals more reliably than any crimp connector made, the only alternative is to install a Deutsch connector with the approved radial crimp tool http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0075P88IY/?tag=tec06d-20 for the pins http://www.newark.com/deutsch/0462-203-12141/crimp-contact-socket-12-14awg/dp/91R1818?mckv=sDgDIZ7EE|pcrid|57087226941|plid|&CMP=KNC-GPLA https://laddinc.com/



OK, Steevo, I am not going to argue with you, but having been in the electrical trades for more than 30 years, I have found those crimp-only splices to be more than adequate for the overwhelming majority of low voltage single stranded copper conductor connections, _*if properly applied*_.

A properly crimped connector; by which I mean the connector is properly sized for the conductor, the correct stripping procedure is used, and the correct termination tool is utilized to apply the terminal within the specified range, will exhibit the same electrical characteristics, resistance and conductivity, as an unbroken conductor.

As the OP was wanting to make connections to a 12V waterpump, I believe the splices I recommended were more than adequate.

Also, while not exactly pertinent to the conversation, the NEC forbids connections that are based entirely on solder, instead requiring some form of mechanical attachment.


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## Vario (Feb 6, 2015)

http://www.submarineboat.com/waterproofing.htm


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## Steevo (Feb 6, 2015)

Arctucas said:


> OK, Steevo, I am not going to argue with you, but having been in the electrical trades for more than 30 years, I have found those crimp-only splices to be more than adequate for the overwhelming majority of low voltage single stranded copper conductor connections, _*if properly applied*_.
> 
> A properly crimped connector; by which I mean the connector is properly sized for the conductor, the correct stripping procedure is used, and the correct termination tool is utilized to apply the terminal within the specified range, will exhibit the same electrical characteristics, resistance and conductivity, as an unbroken conductor.
> 
> ...




So not a 20 ga wire in a red scotchlok?  

I get it, and for anything that is requiring exact voltage tolerances crimp type are good enough, but I am retentive about my wiring as all I work with is high speed CAN, long distance serial, 1W of 900Mhz, and all this is on some of the worst conditions in the world so anything that offers a failure point in conductivity, a change of more than .187 Ohms at 2.3-2.7 VDC is considered a failure point. 

And yeah, the thread is old, but..... its still a good reminder about how to properly wire things, no duct tape on bare twisted wires, no electrical tape on frayed wires, no liquid tape to act as a potting material.


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