# I challenge you! to help me fix this issue lol



## Hvactech (Jan 15, 2013)

Ok so I will try to make this as painless as possible.. I don't have any expirence with computers so bare with me please. I appreciate the help guys.

Built new computer from ground up 

Here are spec that I could find (feel free to ask and tell me where to find more info)

Intel core i52500K CPU @3.3Ghz
MSI P67A-C43 (MS-7673)
MSI N-560GTX-Ti Hawk (s)
Core speed is at 3292 Mhz

The problem is when I go into a game or full screen a video my computer has a hard shut down. I use MSI afterburner in stock settings and it happens still w or wo afterburner.
I have read all threads I could find and nothing goes over how to fix this issue.
Let me know where to start please!


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## erocker (Jan 15, 2013)

What power supply are you using?


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## natr0n (Jan 16, 2013)

what are your cpu temps? also, check to see if cpu cooler is fastened tight.


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## Jetster (Jan 16, 2013)

CPU heat sink not attached correctly. Its overheating. The stock cooler on a i5 2500K are difficult to get right. The pins have to all the way through the hole before you push the black knob down. The white bottom should be flush wit the board. Push it down with a screw driver before pushing the black knob to lock it in place

Build a PC: Heat Sink Fan - YouTube


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## Hvactech (Jan 16, 2013)

So my CPU temps are decent chillin at 47 degrees without a load and they stay right around there..my power suplly is 650W forgot the brand but its a good one.. I have had this problem for a long while...at first I replaced the power supply to a larger one then I bought a better graphics card and it is still shutting off during any game play.. the GPU sink is attached correctly I made sure of that when I built it and I just took it off and put it back on to be sure. I might have fucked up because I don't have anymore heat paste to reapply (fuck) 
The red light light on my tower (appears to be a warning light) is blinking steady and really starts blinking during game play


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## Bluefox1115 (Jan 16, 2013)

you should never remove the heatsink from your graphics card. you most likely screwed something up there. your system may not be getting enough power depending on the power supply. and also, your processor is most likely overheating. you should probably have your entire system looked at by a professional or someone like many of us with lots of experience. you have most likely voided any and all warranties if you decided to tinker around with heatsinks and taking things apart. electronics are not something to reckon with if you don't know exactly what you're doing. :\


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## Hvactech (Jan 16, 2013)

I took the heat sink off the mother board...


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## Bluefox1115 (Jan 16, 2013)

that's usually not a good idea either. what kind of thermal paste or pads are you using? each part usually requires a specific kind, as some are electrically conductive, and others are not. arctic silver 5 is great for processors, while the white pads or arctic ceramique should be used for boards such as gpu's and motherboards.


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## Jetster (Jan 16, 2013)

Hvactech said:


> the GPU sink is attached correctly I made sure of that when I built it and I just took it off and put it back on to be sure. I might have fucked up because I don't have anymore heat paste to reapply (fuck)



That would be an issue  You always replace the paste when removing the HS. Clean and reapply


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## Bluefox1115 (Jan 16, 2013)

did you clean and replace the paste on the motherboard and reinstall the heatsink properly to the NB/SB, vrms on the motherboard?


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## Hvactech (Jan 16, 2013)

It's fine.. what about the red light..


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## Jetster (Jan 16, 2013)

I don't know why don't you check the Motherboards website

Or the manual

http://www.msi.com/service/download/manual-14687.html


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## OneMoar (Jan 16, 2013)

put the screw driver away sparky
and take it to a a shop and lets someone that knows what the f**** they are doing fix it before you break something


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## Killer_Rubber_Ducky (Jan 16, 2013)

OneMoar said:


> put the screw driver away sparky
> and take it to a a shop and lets someone that knows what the f**** they are doing fix it before you break something



now, that is not very nice. 

Seriously though, if you have no experience with computer hardware, take it to your local computer store and ask them to take a gander at it. You do NOT want to void your warranties. 
You should never leave the heatsink off any component that already has one. Also, the other possibility is that perhaps you need a better heatsink/fan combo. I had pretty bad temps on my 8120 with my heatsink/fan till I switched to an H100i.


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## Hvactech (Jan 16, 2013)

Listen.. I'm going to fix this issue myself. So far, I have checked the manual already, but reviewed it again (Thanks for the link) It says nothing of the display light.. and the heat sink seems to be pretty large..how do I check the CPU temp because on afterburner it doesn't tell me...


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## OneMoar (Jan 16, 2013)

Hvactech said:


> Listen.. I'm going to fix this issue myself. So far, I have checked the manual already, but reviewed it again (Thanks for the link) It says nothing of the display light.. and the heat sink seems to be pretty large..how do I check the CPU temp because on afterburner it doesn't tell me...



you need to fill out your full system specs including the model numbers
id bet the issue is power supply(hard power off when at load = bad psu)  period


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## MT Alex (Jan 16, 2013)

Hvactech said:


> Listen.. I'm going to fix this issue myself. So far, I have checked the manual already, but reviewed it again (Thanks for the link) It says nothing of the display light.. and the heat sink seems to be pretty large..how do I check the CPU temp because on afterburner it doesn't tell me...



I'm sure it's something you can figure out with a little assistance from some courteous folks.  The display light on your tower is probably nothing more than the HDD light, a light that comes on when your hard drive is being accessed.

To find out your CPU temperatures, download Real Temp right from this site and install it.  Hopefully that's the issue, since overheating the cpu is an easy fix.

http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/2089/Real_Temp_3.70.html

Good luck


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## Hvactech (Jan 16, 2013)

MT Alex said:


> I'm sure it's something you can figure out with a little assistance from some courteous folks.  The display light on your tower is probably nothing more than the HDD light, a light that comes on when your hard drive is being accessed.
> 
> To find out your CPU temperatures, download Real Temp right from this site and install it.  Hopefully that's the issue, since overheating the cpu is an easy fix.
> 
> ...



OK So I checked the temps and it didn't (CPU) rise above 60 degrees C with a 3DMark11 test oddly enough.. although during the test it dropps down to like 14 FPS.. the GPU usage goes up to 100%!!


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## Delta6326 (Jan 16, 2013)

Hvactech said:


> OK So I checked the temps and it didn't (CPU) rise above 60 degrees C with a 3DMark11 test oddly enough.. although during the test it dropps down to like 14 FPS.. the GPU usage goes up to 100%!!



Those temps shouldn't be causing your problem. This could be a PSU problem though 650W is plenty for your setup., but you say you already replaced it. When you get a chance can you tell us the exact PSU you have or even take a picture of your computer with the side panel off.


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## Hvactech (Jan 16, 2013)

There isn't a label and I really don't think it's super necessary to take it out and look for one... I know it's 650W though.. The taps that connect to the video card are supposed to be separate right? not on the same wires I assume..


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## OneMoar (Jan 16, 2013)

Hvactech said:


> There isn't a label and I really don't think it's super necessary to take it out and look for one... I know it's 650W though.. The taps that connect to the video card are supposed to be separate right? not on the same wires I assume..


500 bucks says its the power supply that photo screams cheap junk the 80mm fan ungromented cables and poor finsh on the tin is a dead give away as to the 'quality' of that unit I would replace it ASAP before it blows up and takes your entire rig with it and no I am not joking I have had it happen never go cheap on the psu
i would be shocked if that unit was a 350WATT let alone a 650 ///


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## rizzo (Jan 16, 2013)

Hvactech said:


> OK So I checked the temps and it didn't (CPU) rise above 60 degrees C with a 3DMark11 test oddly enough.. although during the test it dropps down to like 14 FPS.. the GPU usage goes up to 100%!!



3DMARK Is for testing your vid card not your cpu. You need to run prime or other program that will tax your cpu 100% then check temps. I would guess PSU or maybe a sketch mb. It didn't crash when you ran 3dmark?


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## Hvactech (Jan 16, 2013)

well I didn't purchase it so im not sure as of the quality :/ I see what your saying though..
Yes it crashes when it starts the physics test.. and I will try to find this Prime program to test CPU


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## OneMoar (Jan 16, 2013)

Hvactech said:


> well I didn't purchase it so im not sure as of the quality :/ I see what your saying though..
> Yes it crashes when it starts the physics test.. and I will try to find this Prime program to test CPU



there is not a SINGLE 650Wat psu on newegg or tigerdirect that uses a inside intake fan 80MM fan the green stickers are also a warning flag what is the model unbolt the dam thing so I can tell you if its gonna set your house on fire or not 
if you want a decent capable psu in the 650 range expect to spend at least 100 bucks
I know I am being a ass and I don't care you can seriously get hurt running these cheap china made ticking time bombs


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## andrewsmc (Jan 16, 2013)

OneMoar said:


> 500 bucks says its the power supply that photo screams cheap junk the 80mm fan ungromented cables and poor finsh on the tin is a dead give away as to the 'quality' of that unit I would replace it ASAP before it blows up and takes your entire rig with it and no I am not joking I have had it happen never go cheap on the psu
> i would be shocked if that unit was a 350WATT let alone a 650 ///




+1. That psu looks like a very cheap pos.


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## Hvactech (Jan 16, 2013)

alright alright...ill be right back I have to disassemble the thing again lol


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## OneMoar (Jan 16, 2013)

I had a psu go out on me during a storm (mains surged) it shot fire out the back burned the wall behind it and fried over 300 dollars worth of hardware and it wasn't even a cheap unit it was SeaSonic M12II if mine did that whats your gonna do =/


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## Hvactech (Jan 16, 2013)

OK so I got ALL info from the PSU 
Diablotek 600W ATX
78% eff.
120V input 
DC out put is +3.3 +5 +12v1 +12V2 -12V +5VSB..
It has a three year warranty.. lol


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## Hvactech (Jan 16, 2013)

and that sucks that your shit caught fire man, I have a power surge protector my comp is plugged into..


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## OneMoar (Jan 16, 2013)

Hvactech said:


> OK so I got ALL info from the PSU
> Diablotek 600W ATX
> 78% eff.
> 120V input
> ...



junk shut the system down and don't power it back up untill you get something thats not gonna explode if you look at it wrong installed there's a reason it only retails for 30 bucks lol
Diablotek DA Series PSDA600 600W ATX12V v2.2 Power... lol reviews
grab one of these
______________
Antec NEO ECO 620C 620W Continuous Power ATX12V v2... ( only if you } are on stupid tight budget)


SeaSonic M12II 620 Bronze 620W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 1...
SeaSonic M12II 650 SS-650AM 650W ATX12V / EPS12V S...
SeaSonic X Series X650 Gold ((SS-650KM Active PFC ...
SILVERSTONE Strider Essential series ST70F-ES 700W...

and yes ofc a bad power supply can cause a machine to HARD OFF lol
id grab the strider soild unit but the seasonic has more connectors for gpus a non issue in your current rig  the seasonics are modular(removable) cabled is all


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## Hvactech (Jan 16, 2013)

hmmmmmm I see your point lol SO the real question is... would this cause a hard shut down of the computer?


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## Hvactech (Jan 16, 2013)

And what type of power supply do you guys recommend for my setup? Think cheap but not going to set house on fire... lol


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## Frick (Jan 16, 2013)

Hvactech said:


> hmmmmmm I see your point lol SO the real question is... would this cause a hard shut down of the computer?



Yes. Here's a good review of a 1050W Diablotek unit, and it's more like a 600W unit. It is the PSU.

And any decent 500W unit will do. Corsair CX/GS, Seasonic, Antec, Thermaltake, Chieftech, Fractal Design, Silverstone. Some FSP units.


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## OneMoar (Jan 16, 2013)

Frick said:


> Yes. Here's a good review of a 1050W Diablotek unit, and it's more like a 600W unit. It is the PSU.
> 
> And any decent 500W unit will do. Corsair CX/GS, Seasonic, Antec, Thermaltake, Chieftech, Fractal Design, Silverstone. Some FSP units.



meh while you are probly right 500 is is tipping on the low side once you figure in cap ageing 
this is whats powering my current machine
Antec NEO ECO 520C 520W Continuous Power ATX12V v2...
and heres its slightly bigger brother but for ~20 more you could have that strider .. 
Antec BP550 Plus 550W Continuous Power ATX12V V2.2...


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## Frick (Jan 16, 2013)

OneMoar said:


> meh while you are probly right 500 is is tipping on the low side once you figure in cap ageing
> this is whats powering my current machine
> Antec NEO ECO 520C 520W Continuous Power ATX12V v2...



Fine, say 500-600W then.


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## OneMoar (Jan 16, 2013)

he can't go wrong with that 620c
its 4:am time for me to sleep gl


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## Hvactech (Jan 16, 2013)

thanks guys I will order new PSU tomorrow and let you know what I find!


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## Killer_Rubber_Ducky (Jan 16, 2013)

My setup is running a Antec Earthwatts 750W which was not more than 80-100$. Works fine. Good warranty. A big Factor to look at is if it is At least 80 Plus Bronze rated. That indicates Power Efficiency. If your PSU is rated for 650 but is not 80 plus certified, it could very well only push 350. The higher the rating, generally the higher the price. I was going to guess an Ultra was in his case, but Diaboltek is same thing.


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## BUCK NASTY (Jan 16, 2013)

Late to the party, but wow...don't think I've ever see a PSU with daisy-chained 6 pin PCI cables....:shadedshu

View attachment 49681


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## xenocide (Jan 16, 2013)

BUCK NASTY said:


> Late to the party, but wow...don't think I've ever see a PSU with daisy-chained 6 pin PCI cables....:shadedshu



I've seen a few... in my nightmares...


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## Crap Daddy (Jan 16, 2013)

Whitout a test with a proper PSU it's useless to check other components.


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## Killer_Rubber_Ducky (Jan 16, 2013)

That PSU does not even look like ATX. It looks tiny.Also, the wiring is atrocious.


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## Frick (Jan 16, 2013)

I actually didn't see that pic until now. 

I'm far from a PSU elitist (as some people here are) but there is a limit. Go cheap enough and it can be anything from a danger to your hardware to an actual fire hazard.


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## TheMailMan78 (Jan 16, 2013)

Frick said:


> I actually didn't see that pic until now.
> 
> I'm far from a PSU elitist (as some people here are) but there is a limit. Go cheap enough and it can be anything from a danger to your hardware to an actual fire hazard.



There are AWESOME PSU's for a decent price man. There is ZERO excuse to run a crap PSU. I got my Seasonic for less then $100. If a $100 is to much for good power in over $1000 in hardware then maybe you (not you Frick) should take a deeper look on your (again not you Frick) knowledge of PC's or electronics in general. The PSU is the heart of all systems. It is the most IMPORTANT part of any PC.


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## brandonwh64 (Jan 16, 2013)

TheMailMan78 said:


> There are AWESOME PSU's for a decent price man. There is ZERO excuse to run a crap PSU. I got my Seasonic for less then $100. If a $100 is to much for good power in over $1000 in hardware then maybe you (not you Frick) should take a deeper look on your (again not you Frick) knowledge of PC's or electronics in general. The PSU is the heart of all systems. It is the most IMPORTANT part of any PC.



Its like cheerios for the heart!


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## TheMailMan78 (Jan 16, 2013)

brandonwh64 said:


> Its like cheerios for the heart!



Um.....yeah sure......we will go with that.


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## Frick (Jan 16, 2013)

TheMailMan78 said:


> There are AWESOME PSU's for a decent price man. There is ZERO excuse to run a crap PSU. I got my Seasonic for less then $100. If a $100 is to much for good power in over $1000 in hardware then maybe you (not you Frick) should take a deeper look on your (again not you Frick) knowledge of PC's or electronics in general. The PSU is the heart of all systems. It is the most IMPORTANT part of any PC.



That was kinda the point. You can go cheap (low end Corsair, Antec etc for $50 for instance), but you can't go too cheap.


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## lyndonguitar (Jan 16, 2013)

get a new PSU mate


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## rangerone766 (Jan 16, 2013)

OneMoar said:


> I had a psu go out on me during a storm (mains surged) it shot fire out the back burned the wall behind it and fried over 300 dollars worth of hardware and it wasn't even a cheap unit it was SeaSonic M12II if mine did that whats your gonna do =/



i just lost my seasonic x1250 to a power fluctuation whan a breaker tripped. lucky tho i didnt loose any other hardware, just the psu.

i need to remember to get that thing rma'd soon.


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## ThE_MaD_ShOt (Jan 16, 2013)

I had a decent psu burn out on me this weekend because the 12v line didn't supply enough amps for my gtx 280. Make sure the psu you get has enough juice on the 12v+ line to feed your rig. I just bought a corsair Tx 650 to replace the psu I had. The old psu ran the rig just fine and without and issues with the HD3650 in it. The Gtx 280 was a different story and it took the psu out within 10 mins.


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## Kaynar (Jan 16, 2013)

Frick said:


> Yes. Here's a good review of a 1050W Diablotek unit, and it's more like a 600W unit. It is the PSU.
> 
> And any decent 500W unit will do. Corsair CX/GS, Seasonic, Antec, Thermaltake, Chieftech, Fractal Design, Silverstone. Some FSP units.



WOW i've never seen such a bad (supposedly) high wattage PSU! That must be a "No1 bottom" place holder!

Seems like the OP is lucky his PSU hasnt exploded yet when the GPU tries to draw more power. It is actually amazing to see how modern PC components (mobo, gpu etc) can sustain alot of beating from a low quality PSU, since the OP mentions he has this shutdown problem "for a while now".

A a corsair CX500 500W psu will to the job for you, or actually any 500W+ PSU with at least 80+Bronze rating from a known company.


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## Killer_Rubber_Ducky (Jan 16, 2013)

Im considering upgrading my psu to handle my system better. So yeah bronze or better. Cheap is crap (not inexpensive cheap. Quality cheap)


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## drdeathx (Jan 16, 2013)

Get a multimeter and test the 12V rail on the PSU. A multimeter is cheap and a nice tool to have around. These guys may be right on the PSU but they are blowing smoke unless you check the 12V rail.

Manually Test a (PSU) Power Supply With a Multimet...


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## Kaynar (Jan 16, 2013)

drdeathx said:


> Get a multimeter and test the 12V rail on the PSU. A multimeter is cheap and a nice tool to have around. These guys may be right on the PSU but they are blowing smoke unless you check the 12V rail.
> 
> Manually Test a (PSU) Power Supply With a Multimet...



I agree but as most people here have said, this Diablotek 650W PSU is dangerous and should not be used with a demanding system. The OP should change this PSU asap even if this is not causing his issue. 78% efficiency is not even the "basic" bronze rating for quality. about 7-8 years ago I also had a cheap PSU and after more than 2 years of use it exploded and made a flash like it was a firework in my case, damaging the expensive mobo and P4 2.6Ghz cpu I had back then. Since then I always buy the best possible PSUs in terms of build quality. And guess what... I got an HX850 for 4 years without a problem since then.


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## drdeathx (Jan 16, 2013)

Kaynar said:


> I agree but as most people here have said, this Diablotek 650W PSU is dangerous and should not be used with a demanding system. The OP should change this PSU asap even if this is not causing his issue. 78% efficiency is not even the "basic" bronze rating for quality.



I am not disagreeing with you but the culprit can not be determined by a wild guess. The 12V rail needs to be checked to accurately point to the PSU weather is is a good PSU or not. 12V is 12V.


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## brandonwh64 (Jan 16, 2013)

drdeathx said:


> I am not disagreeing with you but the culprit can not be determined by a wild guess. The 12V rail needs to be checked to accurately point to the PSU weather is is a good PSU or not. 12V is 12V.



Either way, he should still replace that PSU.


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## drdeathx (Jan 16, 2013)

brandonwh64 said:


> Either way, he should still replace that PSU.



Easily said, you going to pay? 

Determine the problem first


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## brandonwh64 (Jan 16, 2013)

drdeathx said:


> Easily said, you going to pay?
> 
> Determine the problem first


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## OneMoar (Jan 16, 2013)

drdeathx said:


> Easily said, you going to pay?
> 
> Determine the problem first



deathhush checking the the 12v rail is not gonna do shit unless its done at load and the system shuts down underload  unless he wants to rig some probes and monitor the voltage as the system shuts down ...


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## drdeathx (Jan 16, 2013)

brandonwh64 said:


> http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f6JZwgo_XiA/T7r9qefk-gI/AAAAAAAABdA/uP2klXbCkkk/s1600/facepalm.png



I really do not understand what your saying. If you read back, I am NOT saying it is not the PSU. The proper way to determine if the PSU is the issue is test it, not go out and buy a new one. If he stresses it he will be able to determine how many volts the rail puts out. If it is within toleraance, her can troubleshoot another issue. I don't think this is hard to understand. This is what a pro would do.



OneMoar said:


> deathhush checking the the 12v rail is not gonna do shit unless its done at load and the system shuts down underload  unless he wants to rig some probes and monitor the voltage as the system shuts down ...



It is very simple to load the system Moar. Need I explain how to?


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## brandonwh64 (Jan 16, 2013)

drdeathx said:


> I really do not understand what your saying. If you read back, I am NOT saying it is not the PSU. The proper way to determine if the PSU is the issue is test it, not go out and buy a new one. If he stresses it he will be able to determine how many volts the rail puts out. If it is within toleraance, her can troubleshoot another issue. I don't think this is hard to understand. This is what a pro would do.



I understand what you are saying BUT he needs to change the PSU ANYWAY due to it being a shit unit. Would you want that PSU in your rig?


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## OneMoar (Jan 16, 2013)

drdeathx said:


> It is very simple to load the system Moar. Need I explain how to?



why bother we already know that the psu is junk  it doesn't take a 24h stress test to tell you that if the system is HARD POWERING OFF underload then the power supply is at fault do you even know if the op knows how to use a multi-meter correctly he already went and ripped the heatsinks off of stuff without thinking about it do you really want him near several amps of power with metal probes (no offence to the op)
you need to hush I  have never been wrong nor do I intend to start here
you are also several hours late to this party


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## drdeathx (Jan 16, 2013)

OneMoar said:


> why bother we already know that the psu is junk  it doesn't take a 24h stress test to tell you that if the system is HARD POWERING OFF underload then the power supply is at fault and I swear if the op changes  the power supply and its not the issue I will paypal him the cost of the power supply



It is pretty simple argumentative one, the issue may NOT be the PSU. Again, if you read my replies, I agree the PSU is not a good one. It is very simple to test the PSU with it installed with a multimeter. Do you want directions along with how to run prime 95 to stress the system. This is how computer shops determine the problem. Now again, I will say, I DID NOT say the issue was not the PSU. It may well be. I gave my suggestion and you guys insist he go buy another PSU. I guess you know peoples bank accounts. Some don't have $100 to run out and buy a new PSU and find out the PSU was not the problem. A multimeter only costs $20 to troubleshoot the problem.

Isolate the problem is what persons do and that is why I am very good at helping troubleshoot peoples problems.

It does not seem he is overclocking so the chances it is the PSU is slim. If the PSU is not the problem, he just wasted $100. Pretty plain and simple.Let's wait to see what his disposition is. You always want to argue and the OP has not responded.


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## ThE_MaD_ShOt (Jan 16, 2013)

The rig Hard off's under GPU load. I will go out on a limb here and say that the psu doesn't supply enough amps on the 12v rail to supply the system hence the shut down under gpu load. If he keeps running the rig like this it will show itself in a not so good way that the psu is not strong enough. 


OP if you could snap a pic of the lable on the psu for us.


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## erocker (Jan 16, 2013)

drdeathx said:


> I really do not understand what your saying. If you read back, I am NOT saying it is not the PSU. The proper way to determine if the PSU is the issue is test it, not go out and buy a new one. If he stresses it he will be able to determine how many volts the rail puts out. If it is within toleraance, her can troubleshoot another issue. I don't think this is hard to understand. This is what a pro would do.





drdeathx said:


> It is very simple to load the system Moar. Need I explain how to?



I'll give you a few minutes to edit your posts together. You seem like a smart guy, it shouldn't be very difficult for you. 

Please remember to use the "multiquote" or "edit" feature in the future.

Thank you.


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## IINexusII (Jan 16, 2013)

I understand what youre saying drdeathx, i always make sure i diagnose what is wrong with my car before throwing parts at it. 

But in this case, even if the PSU shows good amps, i would still get it replaced. that thing looks like it could blow very soon and i wouldnt want to risk the entire PC. on a car you cant test the electrical system accurately if the battery is at the end of its life. the battery usually gets replaced before diagnosing other problems.

Get the PSU changed, then you can run diagnostics.


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## drdeathx (Jan 16, 2013)

IINexusII said:


> I understand what youre saying drdeathx, i always make sure i diagnose what is wrong with my car before throwing parts at it.
> 
> But in this case, even if the PSU shows good amps, i would still get it replaced. that thing looks like it could blow very soon and i wouldnt want to risk the entire PC. on a car you cant test the electrical system accurately if the battery is at the end of its life. the battery usually gets replaced before diagnosing other problems.
> 
> Get the PSU changed, then you can run diagnostics.



I agree nexus but before throwing the cash away, detect the problem. He said nothing about overclocking and if the rail throws enough volts, the system will work fine. Just going out and buying a PSU and throwing it in and finding out there is another piece of hardware that costs another $100 is not smart sence. Any reputable computer shop would test the PSU 1st since it is the easiest and simplest test to do. It takes 2 seconds, then move to the next trouble shoot. They would not AUTOMATICALLY assume the PSU is the problem weather it is a high end or low end. It is like assuming someone has a high end PSU, that would not be the problem. High end PSU's also go bad thus the quick check of the PSU. Now, by the thread, the OP knows he has a low end PSU and that is not the point. The point is to diagnose the problem and poeple who just throw solutions out there without doing the proper steps are just, well, throwing it out there. I appreciate your response...


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## OneMoar (Jan 16, 2013)

IINexusII said:


> I understand what youre saying drdeathx, i always make sure i diagnose what is wrong with my car before throwing parts at it.
> 
> But in this case, even if the PSU shows good amps, i would still get it replaced. that thing looks like it could blow very soon and i wouldnt want to risk the entire PC. on a car you cant test the electrical system accurately if the battery is at the end of its life. the battery usually gets replaced before diagnosing other problems.
> 
> Get the PSU changed, then you can run diagnostics.



THIS THIS THIS omg THIS


----------



## drdeathx (Jan 16, 2013)

OneMoar said:


> THIS THIS THIS omg THIS



Buy it for him and the problem is resolved

Well not resolved but the debate can stop. Like mentioned, when troubleshooting at a reputable computer shop, the PSU would be tested before replacement. If the PSU tets out fine, he has time to replace it. If it doesn't, bingo, problem identified......


----------



## Frick (Jan 16, 2013)

drdeathx said:


> I agree nexus but before throwing the cash away, detect the problem. He said nothing about overclocking and if the rail throws enough volts, the system will work fine. Just going out and buying a PSU and throwing it in and finding out there is another piece of hardware that costs another $100 is not smart sence. Any reputable computer shop would test the PSU 1st since it is the easiest and simplest test to do. It takes 2 seconds, then move to the next trouble shoot. They would not AUTOMATICALLY assume the PSU is the problem weather it is a high end or low end. It is like assuming someone has a high end PSU, that would not be the problem. High end PSU's also go bad thus the quick check of the PSU. Now, by the thread, the OP knows he has a low end PSU and that is not the point. The point is to diagnose the problem and poeple who just throw solutions out there without doing the proper steps are just, well, throwing it out there. I appreciate your response...



So you missed that he tried to run a computer with a GTX560Ti with something that might have been a low powered PSU? And that it dies during gaming, when the GPU and thus the PSU had more load on them? Experience and common sense tells us the PSU is part of the problem. In this case it IS the first thing to test, but obviously it's not always the first thing. When someone has dealt enough with computer problems patterns emerge (as with everything else). Like when back in august I had some weird problems and I thought it was the motherboard but Mussels plain told me it was the memory, because he had seen that exact thing several times. And it was of course the memory. It's the same thing here.

There is a chance he has other problems as well, but the PSU is the great big elephant in the chinastore. Lets clear that out before hunting the mice.



drdeathx said:


> Buy it for him and the problem is resolved
> 
> Well not resolved but the debate can stop. Like mentioned, when troubleshooting at a reputable computer shop, the PSU would be tested before replacement. If the PSU tets out fine, he has time to replace it. If it doesn't, bingo, problem identified......



And how does one test a PSU when you have no equipment to do so? You get a new one and see if your stuff works with that. Ideally he should borrow one first, yes, but if he can't he can't. If he wants to actually use his computer he would have to get another one anyway.


----------



## Killer_Rubber_Ducky (Jan 16, 2013)

drdeathx said:


> I agree nexus but before throwing the cash away, detect the problem. He said nothing about overclocking and if the rail throws enough volts, the system will work fine. Just going out and buying a PSU and throwing it in and finding out there is another piece of hardware that costs another $100 is not smart sence. Any reputable computer shop would test the PSU 1st since it is the easiest and simplest test to do. It takes 2 seconds, then move to the next trouble shoot. They would not AUTOMATICALLY assume the PSU is the problem weather it is a high end or low end. It is like assuming someone has a high end PSU, that would not be the problem. High end PSU's also go bad thus the quick check of the PSU. Now, by the thread, the OP knows he has a low end PSU and that is not the point. The point is to diagnose the problem and poeple who just throw solutions out there without doing the proper steps are just, well, throwing it out there. I appreciate your response...



I fail to see how getting a BETTER PSU is a waste of money when the one he currently has is craptastic at best. Why would i keep an Ultra PSU in a rig with expensive components when for less than a decent CPU, I can drop in a reliable, powerful PSU and protect my expensive parts? How is this wasting his money? I would call this intelligent investing in the well being of his rig. Not replacing his crap PSU would be like turning down a Kevlar helmet and body armour because your leather armour feels fine and has protected you from BBs when you are going up against bullets and IEDs.


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## Jetster (Jan 16, 2013)

drdeathx said:


> I agree nexus but before throwing the cash away, detect the problem. He said nothing about overclocking and if the rail throws enough volts, the system will work fine. Just going out and buying a PSU and throwing it in and finding out there is another piece of hardware that costs another $100 is not smart sence. Any reputable computer shop would test the PSU 1st since it is the easiest and simplest test to do. It takes 2 seconds, then move to the next trouble shoot. They would not AUTOMATICALLY assume the PSU is the problem weather it is a high end or low end. It is like assuming someone has a high end PSU, that would not be the problem. High end PSU's also go bad thus the quick check of the PSU. Now, by the thread, the OP knows he has a low end PSU and that is not the point. The point is to diagnose the problem and poeple who just throw solutions out there without doing the proper steps are just, well, throwing it out there. I appreciate your response...



Normally I would agree that this type of trouble shooting is a bad idea. But its a $30 600w PSU (Diablotek 600W ATX). You need a load tester not a volt tester to tst it. But your probably right its not entirely the PSU fault but its a good place to start


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## ThE_MaD_ShOt (Jan 16, 2013)

His psu can put out a perfect 12 volts on the 12v rail dosen't rule out the psu. He needs to check the amps. His rig is most likely pulling more amps under load on the 12v rail then the psu can handle hence the hard shut down. I bet if he runs the rig till is shuts down then puts his hand on the psu it will be hotter then crap.


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## Frick (Jan 16, 2013)

Besides, some "troubleshooting" was made to begin with, when the op was told to check the temps. And they were fine.


----------



## Pehla (Jan 16, 2013)

my god is it imposible  to get new psu just for testing?? no one of ur friends doesnt have pc?? 
chek one component at the times ...


----------



## Bluefox1115 (Jan 16, 2013)

I swear by Corsair and Thermaltake Tough Power power supplies. Personally I would go with a $100 or so Corsair.. You definitely need to replace that hunk of pot metal.. grab yourself a Xigmatek cpu cooler or something while your at it too, and more thermal paste. Use 91% alcohol and qtips to clean the old paste off the cpu and heatsink. Use about a pea sized dot in the center of the cpu and use the new heatsinks downward pressure will spread it accordingly. For future reference, look at our system specs on our posts to the left, as you will see a common trend of brands and types of hardware that we know are good or better quality. A lot of us use newegg.com, tigerdirect.com, frys, microcenter.com as a basic list of places where we find our stuff. I personally almost always use newegg, because their prices are hard to beat. These sites also offer actual user feedback reviews. You can also check out previews and reviews on a multitude of hardware right here at TPU to get a better informed decision on what to get.


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## Hvactech (Jan 17, 2013)

Ok wow im a little bit behind hahaha So um to try to address everyone.. thanks for all the help guys! I will have a new PSU here tomorrow and we will all be able to breathe easier knowing the real issue... And I'm pretty tech savy when it comes to working on electronics (after all I am a HVAC Technician.. lol) So I could pull out my $250 dollar multimeter and check the PSU but after reading that review on the bigger psu same brand...it's only down hill from there lmao...
I purchased a corsair 750W ATX that should do the trick!
My MSI gtx650 is kinda a beefy card I think it required like 600w or something so it that cheap psu was prob putting out like 250 lol just barely running my comp! I bet the new PSU clears up all issues...just wish I didn't fucking delete my skyrim because I thought it was corrupt X(


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## cadaveca (Jan 17, 2013)

Hvactech said:


> Ok wow im a little bit behind hahaha So um to try to address everyone.. thanks for all the help guys! I will have a new PSU here tomorrow and we will all be able to breathe easier knowing the real issue... And I'm pretty tech savy when it comes to working on electronics (after all I am a HVAC Technician.. lol) So I could pull out my $250 dollar multimeter and check the PSU but after reading that review on the bigger psu same brand...it's only down hill from there lmao...
> I purchased a corsair 750W ATX that should do the trick!
> My MSI gtx650 is kinda a beefy card I think it required like 600w or something so it that cheap psu was prob putting out like 250 lol just barely running my comp! I bet the new PSU clears up all issues...just wish I didn't fucking delete my skyrim because I thought it was corrupt X(



Make sure you keep your receipt so you can return the PSU when it doesn't fix the problem. 




Seriously though, that's a bit of an anemic unit. I dunno how something so small could provide 600W reliably. I believe the GTX560TI asks for 550W PSU. Corsair 750 should do the trick! 

I'm taking HVAC training starting real soon. I may hit you up later on with questions.


----------



## ThE_MaD_ShOt (Jan 17, 2013)

Cool man. I believe you should be fine now and I also believe you have the ability to test the psu. I myself did hvac work for awhile and I know what it entails. I also have my type 1 /type 2 commercial cfc cert card. Corsair makes some good psus. I am running a 750 tx unit in my main rig and just bought a 650 tx unit for one of my other rigs. I run Antec units in the rest of the fleet. Little by little I will replace them all with Corsair Tx units.


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## Hvactech (Jan 17, 2013)

Hell yea if you guys can get into the HVAC industry IT IS BOOMING!! The work force is like 15K short across america... want to talk about job security? lol I really hope this fixes the issue because if it is some lame hard to find software issue im gonna be pissed... That's why I like the idea the one dude had about testing the psu first but it's obviously a POS lol


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## cadaveca (Jan 17, 2013)

Yeah, that is why I decided, plus in Canada, there is year-round work, where as the vinyl siding that I do now is very much summer only.

Pays as well as welding, with 100x more work. I'm in it to win it.


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## ThE_MaD_ShOt (Jan 17, 2013)

I worked for Sears as a Hvac tech for awhile but got tired of "the man". Went back to my roots (auto repair/restore/customize) and been happy every since.


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## lemonadesoda (Jan 17, 2013)

drdeathx said:


> Get a multimeter and test the 12V rail on the PSU. A multimeter is cheap and a nice tool to have around. These guys may be right on the PSU but they are blowing smoke unless you check the 12V rail.



I'm sorry, but this is the worst advice on the thread. This OP *is not* the sort of person who should be playing around checking voltages and currents when the *PC IS ON*. Are you going to pick up the medical bill or lawsuit when he zaps himself, his PSU, his mainboard, and goodness knows what else? You think this guy is making a better investment by buying a voltmeter than switching this (we all know it) shitty PSU? The OP is *enthusiastic*... but that does not make him an informed, experienced, _enthusiast_.

You call yourself Dr Death for a reason... I see 

I would advise the OP to take the PSU to someone very familiar with building PCs who can help and explain why certain choices are made. If the OP insists on doing it himself, then take the advice of multiple TPUers in this thread, buy a decent PSU. THEN read all about heatsinks and thermal grease and TIM and go fix all those heatsinks you have played with!

And good luck. Perhaps this experience will get you motivated to learn more about electronics and PC components. It's a fun thing (and useful) to master!


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## drdeathx (Jan 17, 2013)

Jetster said:


> Normally I would agree that this type of trouble shooting is a bad idea. But its a $30 600w PSU (Diablotek 600W ATX). You need a load tester not a volt tester to tst it. But your probably right its not entirely the PSU fault but its a good place to start



Thanks but a multimeter works fine in testing the PSU.


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## thebluebumblebee (Jan 17, 2013)

FYI: Here's a review of a PSU of similar quality to yours.   http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=324


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## Hvactech (Jan 17, 2013)

Alright guys I installed the new PSU and my computer is finally passing the Mark test!! YAY! Only issue I can think of is the memory core temp went up to 100 degrees Celsius!!!  I turned fan to 100% and it goes down to 77...what now? lol


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## brandonwh64 (Jan 17, 2013)

Hvactech said:


> Alright guys I installed the new PSU and my computer is finally passing the Mark test!! YAY! Only issue I can think of is the memory core temp went up to 100 degrees Celsius!!!  I turned fan to 100% and it goes down to 77...what now? lol



So it was the PSU! well Dr death I believe you owe some of us apologies.

The card is getting hot? Hmmm what case do you have?


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## Hvactech (Jan 17, 2013)

I don't think he owes anyone an apology..he just wanted to make sure I wasn't wasting my money..
And it is a thermal lake one that I got from tiger direct


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## MT Alex (Jan 17, 2013)

I would imagine it's because you took the heatsink off and didn't have any new TIM and thermal tape.  Your gpu mem should have stuff that looks like double sided tape on them, those have to touch the cooler.


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## erocker (Jan 17, 2013)

Hvactech said:


> Only issue I can think of is the memory core temp went up to 100 degrees Celsius



"Memory core temp" isn't something that exists. Where are you getting the temp info from? Post a screenshot please.


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## Frick (Jan 17, 2013)

drdeathx said:


> Thanks but a multimeter works fine in testing the PSU.



Only for seeing what voltages you kinda get. You dont catch ripple, which is just as important.


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## Hvactech (Jan 17, 2013)

sry memory temp* and its on after burner
I did reapply the heat paste to the CPU but that temp is holding at like 40 degrees... 
Why is my memory temp so high?


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## erocker (Jan 17, 2013)

Hvactech said:


> sry memory temp* and its on after burner
> I did reapply the heat paste to the CPU but that temp is holding at like 40 degrees...
> Why is my memory temp so high?



It's most likely reading the VRAM VRM temperature. When you removed the cooler, the thermal pad may have fallen off or become displaced.


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## Killer_Rubber_Ducky (Jan 17, 2013)

Hvactech said:


> sry memory temp* and its on after burner
> I did reapply the heat paste to the CPU but that temp is holding at like 40 degrees...
> Why is my memory temp so high?



This is the Answer !!



MT Alex said:


> I would imagine it's because you took the heatsink off and didn't have any new TIM and thermal tape.  Your gpu mem should have stuff that looks like double sided tape on them, those have to touch the cooler.





			
				erocker said:
			
		

> It's most likely reading the VRAM VRM temperature. When you removed the cooler, the thermal pad may have fallen off or become displaced.


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## Hvactech (Jan 17, 2013)

it didn't have any double sided tape before hand.. and it was at like 45 degrees? just the thermal paste... and were not talking the CPU temp.. where is this memory temp reading at?


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## erocker (Jan 17, 2013)

Hvactech said:


> it didn't have any double sided tape before hand.. and it was at like 45 degrees? just the thermal paste... and were not talking the CPU temp.. where is this memory temp reading at?



If I'm not mistaken, your card should have heatsinks that are attatched to that area as the main cooler only cools the GPU. Check under the other heatsinks.


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## MT Alex (Jan 17, 2013)

Yup, it should look like this.  Make sure you didn't mess with the large plate that covers the vrams.







Everything I've read suggests your card should run very cool and quietly.


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## Hvactech (Jan 17, 2013)

guys...I took the fan off the mother board not the graphics card... thats stock still
New issue- my PSU fan isn't running... its just sitting there stuttering..wtf!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## MT Alex (Jan 17, 2013)

I don't see a fan on your motherboard?






ALSO:  if you bought a TX series PSU, the fan won't run at low loads, it only comes on when needed.


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## Hvactech (Jan 17, 2013)

It was added over the Chip see the X?
Is the memory supposed to be that hot?


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## erocker (Jan 17, 2013)

But you are reading temps from the GPU in afterburner? Now I'm confused.


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## drdeathx (Jan 17, 2013)

brandonwh64 said:


> So it was the PSU! well Dr death I believe you owe some of us apologies.
> 
> The card is getting hot? Hmmm what case do you have?



Obviously, you did not read my responses very well.



Hvactech said:


> I don't think he owes anyone an apology..he just wanted to make sure I wasn't wasting my money..
> And it is a thermal lake one that I got from tiger direct



Some people are head cases and need meds Hv. You hit it on the head. I am glad it worked out for you. I did say that it could be the PSU........


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## Hvactech (Jan 17, 2013)

AND I was just playing medievil 2 and it crashed yet again.. SO the PSU ins't the issue.. how about that..


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## erocker (Jan 17, 2013)

Hvactech said:


> AND I was just playing medievil 2 and it crashed yet again.. SO the PSU ins't the issue.. how about that..



You still haven't addressed the overheating issue, so it is going to do that.

Post screenshots of:

RealTemp or CoreTemp (for your CPU temps)
Sensors tab of GPU-Z

Or use HWbot64 and show the list of temps from that.


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## Hvactech (Jan 18, 2013)

Coretemp has my core maxed at 50 degrees
And I can't take a damn screen shot for some reason :/ 
My after burner has a temp break down of my card..
GPU temp 43
Memory temp 79 degrees
VRM temp 42 degrees
Gpu usage used to shoot all the way up but only goes to like 40% now
gpu voltage 1.087
core clock 950
shader clock 1900
memory clock 2098
memory usage 157 
fram rate 0

This is with no load

CPU-z of coarse has an error code 0X5(5) during initilization 
[bInitDriver] path = C:\Users\DAMIAN~1\AppData\Local\Temp\
[bInitDriver] GetCurrentDirectory = C:\Program Files\CPUID\CPU-Z
[bInitDriver] GetModuleFileName = C:\Program Files\CPUID\CPU-Z\cpuz.exe
[vGetOSVersion] m_iOSVersion = 2 (6.1)
[vGetOSVersion] m_bIsAMD64 = 0
[bInitDriver] m_hDriverMutex = E4
[bInitDriver] m_szPath_2 = C:\Users\DAMIAN~1\AppData\Local\Temp\\cpuz136\
[bInitDriver] m_szFilename = cpuz136_x64.sys
[bLockDriverHandle 18:57:33] WaitForSingleObject error = 0
[WinNT_bInstallDriver 18:57:33] szMachineName = BOB-PC
[WinNT_bInstallDriver] OpenSCManager failed, error code = 5
[bInitDriver] bInitDriver returned 5
[vCloseDriver 18:57:33] WaitForSingleObject error = 0
[WinNT_dwUninstallDriver] OpenSCManager failed, error code = 5
[vCloseDriver] CloseHandle(mutex) = 1


what else you need to know?


----------



## MT Alex (Jan 18, 2013)

Hvactech said:


> guys...I took the fan off the mother board not the graphics card... thats stock still





Hvactech said:


> It was added over the Chip see the X?





Hvactech said:


> Coretemp has my core maxed at 50 degrees



That is your cpu heatsink.  Your cores aren't maxed at 50 degrees, they are idling at 50, which isn't that cool.  When you put it under full load I'd bet it's hotter than hell.  The cpu has a thermal shut down of 98 degrees, but I'd bet your motherboard shuts it down around 75.  

Also you can take a screen shot, but after you hit the Prt Scr button, you then have to open Paint (one of your Accessories in the Start Menu) and then Paste the copied screen there.  Then save it as a jpeg and upload it to TPU.


----------



## Hvactech (Jan 18, 2013)

here


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## Hvactech (Jan 18, 2013)

After free mark11 benchmark test (couldn't physics test because it stopped responding)


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## erocker (Jan 18, 2013)

Check this thread for those high vram temps: http://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=160911.0

It probably is just a bad sensor reading.

You have another issue and it is with your CPU. GPU-Z isn't reading it correctly, you may need to update your motherboard bios.


----------



## drdeathx (Jan 18, 2013)

Hvactech said:


> I don't think he owes anyone an apology..he just wanted to make sure I wasn't wasting my money..
> And it is a thermal lake one that I got from tiger direct





Hvactech said:


> AND I was just playing medievil 2 and it crashed yet again.. SO the PSU ins't the issue.. how about that..




OMG I could have fun with this one.....



brandonwh64 said:


> So it was the PSU! well Dr death I believe you owe some of us apologies.
> 
> The card is getting hot? Hmmm what case do you have?



First 3 letters of assume are?

I think you owe me an apology........ Brandon(assumer)



OneMoar said:


> THIS THIS THIS omg THIS



Multi quoting rocks, here is #2


----------



## Hvactech (Jan 18, 2013)

Im downloading file now.. hopefully it's straight forward..
thanks buddy 
Ok so I downloaded all new driveers...same issue with games/tests crashing this is frustrating.. 
What now? common guys!!


----------



## Hvactech (Jan 18, 2013)

I downloaded the update program MSI has and it found like 18 drivers that were out of date on my computer (even though I had thought I was up to date on my drivers..) 
We'll see how it helps!


----------



## Hvactech (Jan 18, 2013)

Ok so I downloaded all new driveers...same issue with games/tests crashing this is frustrating..


----------



## Jetster (Jan 18, 2013)

Just edit your post.


----------



## Hvactech (Jan 18, 2013)

How do I delete posts? lol


----------



## Bluefox1115 (Jan 18, 2013)

Bluefox1115 said:


> ... grab yourself a Xigmatek cpu cooler or something while your at it too, and more thermal paste. Use 91% alcohol and qtips to clean the old paste off the cpu and heatsink. Use about a pea sized dot in the center of the cpu and use the new heatsinks downward pressure will spread it accordingly..



The problem is this:

Your computer is severely overheating, close to the point of permanent hardware damage or failure if you keep trying to run it in its current state. You *NEED* a better CPU cooler, and some good thermal paste. Here are some links to things you need.

Low cost, but effective CPU cooler. I have used these on a couple builds for other people with positive results. Others may differ with this decision and I welcome other ideas to help this guy, as I have not used this on an Intel set up.
XIGMATEK Gaia SD1283 120mm Long Life Bearing CPU Cooler - $21
XIGMATEK Gaia SD1283 120mm Long Life Bearing CPU C...

CPU thermal paste that 99% of us use
Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver Thermal Compound AS5-3.5G - $10
Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver ...

General purpose thermal paste great for video cards, northbridge, southbridge, and anywhere else you may have removed thermal tape/paste/material from on an electronic board that uses a heatsink.
Arctic Silver CMQ2-25G Céramique 2 Tri-Linear Ceramic Thermal Compound - $7.50
Arctic Silver CMQ2-25G Céramique 2 Tri-Linear Cera...

91% rubbing alcohol, qtips, shop towels or paper towels. a set of screw drivers both phillips and flat head (non-magnetic).

These are all essentials tools that you will use over and over again in the computer building process.


Also, take into consideration that with air cooling products, your case needs to have proper airflow coming in, and ventilation coming out. Make sure you have at least 2 fans bringing cool air in, and a top and rear fan bringing air out. This is a minimum amount to properly regulate temperature and ventilation. Regularly cleaning the dust out of your computer is essentials. You can use canned air to do this, or a power duster.


----------



## MT Alex (Jan 18, 2013)

Bluefox1115 said:


> The problem is this:
> 
> Your computer is severely overheating, close to the point of permanent hardware damage or failure if you keep trying to run it in its current state. You *NEED* a better CPU cooler, and some good thermal paste. Here are some links to things you need.



I don't think so, you can see in post 108 his CPU only heated up to the low 60s.  Not that he shouldn't get a better cooler, but that doesn't appear to be the issue.  

That being said, it would be nice to know if CPU-Z was running during the bench, and those are the temps reached, or if the computer crashed, restarted, and that's the temperatures it was showing after restart.  If it is the latter, then you are correct about the overheating.  That would be a lot easier to fix than the conflicting drivers/corrupt OS that it seems like.



Bluefox1115 said:


> 91% rubbing alcohol, qtips, shop towels or paper towels.



Coffee filters are my favorite, they polish well and leave zero lint.


----------



## Bluefox1115 (Jan 18, 2013)

He previously stated his temperature log was showing temps in excess of 100c...



MT Alex said:


> Coffee filters are my favorite, they polish well and leave zero lint.



never though of that!


----------



## MT Alex (Jan 18, 2013)

Bluefox1115 said:


> He previously stated his temperature log was showing temps in excess of 100c...



True, but:



Hvactech said:


> Alright guys I installed the new PSU and my computer is finally passing the Mark test!! YAY! Only issue I can think of is the *memory core temp went up to 100 degrees Celsius*!!!  I turned fan to 100% and it goes down to 77...what now? lol





erocker said:


> Check this thread for those high vram temps: http://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=160911.0
> 
> It probably is just a bad sensor reading.
> 
> You have another issue and it is with your CPU. GPU-Z isn't reading it correctly, you may need to update your motherboard bios.


----------



## Frick (Jan 18, 2013)

drdeathx said:


> OMG I could have fun with this one.....



The PSU WAS an issue, but during the process it feels like something got messed up, so now there is a *different *issue going on.

I'm trying to make sense of what is happening, but it's all over the place.

Can you run 3dmark11 in windowed mode? If so, do that, run HWMon at the same time and look at the current temperatures.


----------



## MT Alex (Jan 18, 2013)

Frick said:


> Can you run 3dmark11 in windowed mode? If so, do that, run HWMon at the same time and look at the current temperatures.



That would clear up a bunch of questions, real time temp readings.


----------



## Bluefox1115 (Jan 18, 2013)

I'm still confused myself, because he says its a different component or fan every time.. :\ The best thing to do is make fans and heatsinks are where they should be, and there is sufficient thermal interface material where it's needed.


----------



## Hvactech (Jan 18, 2013)

Let me make this reallllyyyy suppeerr clear
It is NOT the cpu..forget I mentioned it
The graphics card memory temp reading on after burner is staying around 90 degrees C
on stock settings unless I turn the graphic card fan up to 100% then it drops to 70
The log for the graphics card readings is in the picture attached.. I knew this would be a much more complicated issue then changing the power supply 
Is there a way to tune the graphics card to reduce the memory heat? I have read OC threads on here but I am not yet comfortable messing with them to the extremes small measurements I have made with little/no difference in temps!
Also Others have had this issue and supposedly they downloaded a new bios and "flashed" it what ever the hell that means..I just figured out how to enter the bios let alone fuck with it lol 
I messages MSI about it see what they say would be nice for one of you to crack the case lol


----------



## Bluefox1115 (Jan 18, 2013)

I think everyone would agree a better CPU cooler is in order either way.. Just to clearify, you did not take the cooler off of the graphics card? And yes, flashing the graphics card with a new bios does sometimes fix issues, as well as doing so with your motherboard. They actually solve a lot of problems. The flashing process differs depending on the brand sometimes. Although, it is still generally a complex process if you don't know how to.


----------



## Frick (Jan 18, 2013)

Blast you can't run it Windowed. So let us turn to our old friend Speedfan. Download it, install it, run it. You have to do a bit of configuration to set up the logging.

But first, make sure the program is reading all temperatures! Take a screenshot and upload it here.

How to set up logging:

Click the *Configure *button - > You are now in the *Temperatures* tab. Click on the temperature that you wish to monitor (Core, everything related to the GPU, and the harddrives, HD0 and so on) and click *Logged *at the bottom of the window. Go to the *Log* tab and click *Enabled*. Click *OK*.

Now go to the folder where Speedfan was installed (C:\Program Files (x86)\SpeedFan is standard). The log will be a .csv (comma seperated value) file and will be named SFLogDate (SFLog20130118.csv today). If you open the file a new file will be created, so don't open it just yet.

No run anything that makes the computer crash.

EDIT: Ah updates. I was too slow. 

Just to be clear: Have you removed the cooler to the graphics card, or done anything with it?


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## Hvactech (Jan 18, 2013)

Bluefox1115 said:


> Just to clearify, you did not take the cooler off of the graphics card?


Nope its stock still 
I will attempt those trails tomorrow to check for heat thanks


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## xenocide (Jan 18, 2013)

Hvactech said:


> Nope its stock still
> I will attempt those trails tomorrow to check for heat thanks



If it was a problem with the GPU, you'd be seeing artifacts and random color streaks before it shutdown, but you haven't mentioned that.


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## drdeathx (Jan 18, 2013)

xenocide said:


> If it was a problem with the GPU, you'd be seeing artifacts and random color streaks before it shutdown, but you haven't mentioned that.



GPU problems do not always end up in artifacting.


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