# My system's +3.3v +5v +12v Channels Are Low! I Need Help (Corsair RM850X)



## greatfarid (Feb 9, 2020)

Hi,

Greetings from Turkey.

I have been having an interesting problem with my system for a long time and I could not solve it. I hope you guys can help me here.

I have a space "non-case" system as you can see below this text.






First of all look at to my system specs:

•Intel Xeon W3680 4.45 GHz 6C/12T Overclocked CPU) with 1.48v maximum voltage scale I set it voltage in automatically. When CPU idle the temps are so low)

• Sapphire Vega 64 Reference P7/ Clock 1652 : Voltage 1050 - P6/ Clock 1552 : Voltage 1000

• G-Skill Ripjaws 1600 MHz DDR3 3x4 12 GB Ram (Triple-Channel) with 1.6v (3x4)

• SSD and HDD only 1/1

• ETC...

• *Corsair RM850X 850w +80 Gold Plus PSU (This is important cuz problem is here)

----*

3v, 5v and 12v rail lows... sometimes it is 2.8, 4.5, 11,600v etc. and my system shuts down from time to time cause of this problem.

Look at here, my temps are not bad and those channels seems like normal but isn't! Because, as i said, sometimes it's dropped so low.

What should I do?

Should I change my PSU cables? or PSU? But I won't change PSU now that's i'm looking for a solution

(In HWM, other time)





(In game)


​


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## Zach_01 (Feb 9, 2020)

Hi there!

Have you ever measure your wall socket for how many volts?
Is that RM850X old?


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## trickson (Feb 9, 2020)

Have you tried a new PSU?
Looks like that one is not doing very well at all. 
Also have you got a PSU tester? 
Sofware is fine but it might not be reading correctly.


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## Zach_01 (Feb 9, 2020)

At first its looking like the PSU is off but it is wierd to me, all the lines together to be such undervoltaged.
Thats why I asked about wall volts.

The acceptable range is +/-5%
12V (11.4~12.6)
5V (4.75~5.25)
3.3V (3.135~3.465)

@greatfarid do you have power failures of electricity in your location?


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## Vya Domus (Feb 9, 2020)

Those software readings are pretty much useless. If you want to know if the voltages are actually off you need a tester.


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## jsfitz54 (Feb 9, 2020)

My arm chair diagnosis is that the PSU is too far out of spec. (adding the overclock to the equation)

Replace PSU.


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## greatfarid (Feb 9, 2020)

Zach_01 said:


> Hi there!
> 
> Have you ever measure your wall socket for how many volts?
> Is that RM850X old?



I have not measured my wall socket before. But my wall socket and other socket it seems like old. Should I change? If you say yes what do you recommend?

RM850X is 3,4 years old I guess.



trickson said:


> Have you tried a new PSU?
> Looks like that one is not doing very well at all.
> Also have you got a PSU tester?
> Sofware is fine but it might not be reading correctly.



1- No, I have no tried now with another PSU. I don't know if I found another PSU i'm going to test.
2- I don't have a PSU tester 

Software maybe isn't correctly completely but Bios values same too. :/

Values aren't stable. :/



Zach_01 said:


> At first its looking like the PSU is off but it is wierd to me, all the lines together to be such undervoltaged.
> Thats why I asked about wall volts.
> 
> The acceptable range is +/-5%
> ...



But those ranges aren't stable. I mean sometimes 3.3v(2.6) 5v(4.4 or 6) 12v(10.0 or 8) :/
*
This is my friend's system and his ranges are stable as you can see.*




"do you have power failures of electricity in your location?"

No.



jsfitz54 said:


> My arm chair diagnosis is that the PSU is too far out of spec. (adding the overclock to the equation)
> 
> Replace PSU.



It's hard to change PSU right now for me. I'm looking for a solution. :/



Vya Domus said:


> Those software readings are pretty much useless. If you want to know if the voltages are actually off you need a tester.



What kind of tester is this exactly? Can I find in Turkey?


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## Toothless (Feb 9, 2020)

Software is next to useless. I'd look at Amazon if you guys have it for psu testers.


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## Zach_01 (Feb 9, 2020)

Come on people... he already said that he seeing the same values in BIOS... Is that useless too?


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## phanbuey (Feb 9, 2020)

Zach_01 said:


> Come on people... he already said that he seeing the same values in BIOS... Is that useless too?



Doesn't that just pull from the same sensors?


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## trickson (Feb 9, 2020)

Since you are saying that it is the same in BIOS, GET A NEW PSU NOW! 
YOUR PSU IS DEAD! Or about to die and it's NOT a good thing it's running like that for the other parts.
REPLACE NOW!



phanbuey said:


> Doesn't that just pull from the same sensors?


No matter if it is then that PSU is about to die.


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## Zach_01 (Feb 9, 2020)

phanbuey said:


> Doesn't that just pull from the same sensors?


Are we talking about useless software or useless motherboard sensors?

Volts are going far out of spec and the PC restarts... Are we still talking about fault software and fault sensors?
Clearly there is a big issue...
I was trying to understand if the PSU has it or the power grid in his location.


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## Xzibit (Feb 9, 2020)

Not a solution just an observation

PSU exhaust air through the back standing it like that doesn't allow the fan to push air out of it. Lay it on the side is best not blocking the fan nor the rear exhaust.

Did you ever catch the person that smashed your CPU heatsink

3-channel memory looks to be 2-Red 1-Black. Have you tried going with the 2-Red only


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## Zach_01 (Feb 9, 2020)

@greatfarid, first do what @Xzibit said, to improve airflow to the PSU.
When the PC is working can you put your hand to the exhaust of the air and feel the temp?
Even if you dont blocking the air exhaust, the way the PSU is, it could recycle the warm air and eventually overheat.


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## trickson (Feb 9, 2020)

Zach_01 said:


> Are we talking about useless software or useless motherboard sensors?
> 
> Volts are going far out of spec and the PC restarts... Are we still talking about fault software and fault sensors?
> Clearly there is a big issue...
> I was trying to understand if the PSU has it or the power grid in his location.


Power Grid? WTF? LOL.
No it is the PSU period.

@OP Replace the PSU and get back with us.
Everything else from here on is just useless blabber. Sensors or readings or power grids.
It is THE POWER SUPPLY NOTHING ELSE IS CAUSING THIS PERIOD!

OMG not even one thanks?  WOW! AND I KNOW I AM RIGHT TOO! 
I literally solved the problem first POST!


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## Zach_01 (Feb 9, 2020)

trickson said:


> Power Grid? WTF? LOL.
> No it is the PSU period.
> 
> @OP Replace the PSU and get back with us.
> ...


Before you put OP through expenses by buying PSUs and PSU testers, you should inspect every other option there is...
First he must change the position of the PSU to improve air flow.


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## trickson (Feb 9, 2020)

Zach_01 said:


> Before you put OP through expenses by buying PSUs and PSU testers, you should inspect every other option there is...
> First he must change the position of the PSU to improve air flow.


WTF does airflow have to do with his issue?
I'm really not linking the 2.
Improve airflow? That is NOT going to NET any more voltage OMG.

LMAO Power grids and airflow! LOL....


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## phanbuey (Feb 9, 2020)

I mean ... if the PSU is shutting down like that because it's overheating then it's time for a new one anyways.

If any of my systems are built properly and shut down like that I would replace the powersupply - it's on it's last legs, and the OCP is kicking in, it's not too long before it can start frying components.

That shutdown is probably the safety features of the PSU protecting your hardware... it's time...


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## trickson (Feb 9, 2020)

phanbuey said:


> I mean ... if the PSU is shutting down like that because it's overheating then it's time for a new one anyways.
> 
> If any of my systems are built properly and shut down like that I would replace the powersupply - it's on it's last legs, and the OCP is kicking in, it's not too long before it can start frying components.
> 
> That shutdown is probably the safety features of the PSU protecting your hardware... it's time...


I just said this too.


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## Kissamies (Feb 9, 2020)

I'd try a multimeter. Like said many times on the posts above, software readings aren't always accurate.


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## Xzibit (Feb 9, 2020)

The game pic shows v1.472 for CPU might just be unstable OC under load as well.


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## Zach_01 (Feb 9, 2020)

Still it doesnt hurt to ensure that the PSU is not overheating. Volt drop could be due to overheat.



Chloe Price said:


> I'd try a multimeter. Like said many times on the posts above, software readings aren't always accurate.


Yes but if this was the case why would the PC restart? It got scared of the false readings?



Xzibit said:


> The game pic shows v1.472 for CPU might just be unstable OC under load as well.


The OP said that when he got the drops then the restart occur.


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## phanbuey (Feb 9, 2020)

trickson said:


> I just said this too.



I was agreeing with you.

@greatfarid pick up a new PSU from somewhere where you can take it back for a refund and if it doesn't completely solve the issue (it will) you can take it back.


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## Hockster (Feb 9, 2020)

That PSU has a 10 year warranty. If checking the wall power doesn't show a problem I'd start the RMA process.









						Corsair Limited Warranty
					

This warranty applies to all Corsair products except Corsair PC gaming systems. You can find warranties for PC gaming systems on the Corsair Systems Warranty page.  How to Make a Warranty Claim Ove...




					help.corsair.com


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## chr0nos (Feb 9, 2020)

disconnect / reconnect PSU 24 pin cable from both sides and check for faulty connections.

Had a similar problem and it was just a loose cable.


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## arbiter (Feb 9, 2020)

Zach_01 said:


> Still it doesnt hurt to ensure that the PSU is not overheating. Volt drop could be due to overheat.


when 12volt rail is only reading 6.9 that kinda tells me no. Pretty sure machine wouldn't even run with that low of volts.


Chloe Price said:


> I'd try a multimeter. Like said many times on the posts above, software readings aren't always accurate.


best thing to do to see if its just messed up sensor.


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## Vya Domus (Feb 9, 2020)

Zach_01 said:


> Come on people... he already said that he seeing the same values in BIOS... Is that useless too?



Yes.

Just to drive a point, I checked in my BIOS and it says my 12V rail is doing 11.141V and the 5V one is at 3.14V. Both of those are obviously well under the allowed tolerances, my PC shouldn't even boot.



Zach_01 said:


> Are we talking about useless software or useless motherboard sensors?



Both, they are just not accurate and there is no way to tell if it's the software or the hardware. To be honest even those cheap tester aren't good enough because ideally you need to measure those voltages when the PSU is under load.

By the way my hunch is that the PSU is fine and something else is going on.


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## Frick (Feb 9, 2020)

And to really drive the point home the system wouldn't start with those voltages. I've had motherboards with such readings.

*If the system runs fine, it's fine. *The problem with power supplies is that you don't know if its slowly killing your system without proper testing equipment and the knowledge to use it. But for practical purposes, *if you have no probems, don't worry about it.*


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## trickson (Feb 9, 2020)

My suggestion is to do a few tests to be sure.
Disconnect the current PSU from the MB (all PSU connections) and re-connect them.  Restart the system and see if this helped.
Get a PSU tester to be sure. They cost little and work great.
get a second PSU (if possible) install it and see. 
This is the only way to be sure. without getting into a huge quagmire of BS. 
If after all this you still have the same readings then your sensors are faulty (I find this really hard to believe though).


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## freeagent (Feb 9, 2020)

Maybe give the 24 pin plug a jiggle, see if you can get those volts up again. If that's not the problem, since your 12v is out to lunch, but your 3v and 5v are still showing readings well into the basement, your psu is done. I have a Corsair 850w unit that is a huge pile of shit, as well as Thermaltake 850 that is also a steaming pile. Their 3.3 and 5v read just like yours. I replaced with an ancient Thermaltake 650 and every single one of my x58 problems disappeared.


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## trickson (Feb 9, 2020)

freeagent said:


> Maybe give the 24 pin plug a jiggle, see if you can get those volts up again. If that's not the problem, since your 12v is out to lunch, but your 3v and 5v are still showing readings well into the basement, your psu is done. I have a Corsair 850w unit that is a huge pile of shit, as well as Thermaltake 850 that is also a steaming pile. Their 3.3 and 5v read just like yours. I replaced with an ancient Thermaltake 650 and every single one of my x58 problems disappeared.


It really is the luck of the draw. 
I have a 13 year old Corssair TX850 and it is still going strong and I have a new TX750 and it is just as good. 
I have had 2 Thermaltake PSU each one took out a computer literally! I WILL NEVER BUY another one again! EVER! PILE OF CRAP!


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## freeagent (Feb 9, 2020)

The Corsair I was referring to was the TX850


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## silentbogo (Feb 9, 2020)

Zach_01 said:


> he already said that he seeing the same values in BIOS... Is that useless too?


Yes, it is useless too, because all voltages are reported by SuperI/O and in most cases you'll see same ridiculous numbers both in BIOS and in software. 
There's no better way to check your voltages than sticking a multimeter in your PSU or on your motherboard, period*.* 
If his 12V rail would suddenly jump below 11V (I mean really ), his system would shut down.
You don't even need to disconnect the PSU from the system(it's actually better to check it with load). Simply, go to the nearest electronics/construction store or even supermarket, buy the cheapest $2 chinese multimeter, and start poking and prodding.


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## trickson (Feb 9, 2020)

freeagent said:


> The Corsair I was referring to was the TX850


Yes I know! 
That is the exact same one I have in my Ryzen 3 1300X it is AMAZING and the TX750 is in the Ryzen 7 System I am on NOW! LOL.



silentbogo said:


> There's no better way to check your voltages than sticking a multimeter in your PSU or on your motherboard, period*.*


Okay can we NOT say this! You do NOT have to have some lab to test a PSU FOR GODSAKE!
All you need is a simple 30 dollar PSU tester you can get one a Radio-shack for the LOVE OF.......
This is just one thing that really gets me, You think that is the ONLY way? You really think that you need a multi-meter to check a PSU?
Just do what I posted up and you will find out faster than getting a multi-meter and learning how to use it and read the thing.
Nothing at all like the PLUG AND READ I was talking about but hey I guess you need to be an electrification to test out equipment.

And to go polking around with a multi-meter on your MB without any knowledge of where to put that red one and the black one? OMG DUDE REALLY!


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## silentbogo (Feb 9, 2020)

trickson said:


> This is just one thing that really gets me, You think that is the ONLY way? You really think that you need a multi-meter to check a PSU?


Yes, I do, and there are few reasons why:
1) Multimeters are reliable, safe and time-proven. 
2) Mainstream multimeters are dirt-cheap.
3) PSU testers can only measure a no-load voltages, which is not helpful in troubleshooting voltage drops or spikes
4) Nearly everyone, except for millenial neo-hippie shmucks already has a multimeter at home (I have 4). 



trickson said:


> And to go polking around with a multi-meter on your MB without any knowledge of where to put that red one and the black one? OMG DUDE REALLY!


Same could be said about these gimmicky PSU testers. General rule of thumb: if you don't know what you are doing - don't do it.


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## trickson (Feb 9, 2020)

silentbogo said:


> Yes, I do, and there are few reasons why:
> 1) Multimeters are reliable, safe and time-proven.
> 2) Mainstream multimeters are dirt-cheap.
> 3) PSU testers can only measure a no-load voltages, which is not helpful in troubleshooting voltage drops or spikes
> ...


I would caution anyone on this advice. 
PSU testers are far more reliable and way easier to use and will NOT result in any mishaps that can happen when using metal probes on electronics and circuit boards, One slip, one short, one scratch and it is REALLY over. 
Do what you feel is right.
I gave my suggestion and that is how I would go about doing it is all. 
Your way is so dangerous it's NOT even funny But hey to each there own.


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## StaticVapour (Feb 9, 2020)

Chloe Price said:


> I'd try a multimeter. Like said many times on the posts above, software readings aren't always accurate.


With that kind of readings what software is indicating i bet there would be no power, PSU can sense it


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## Bill_Bright (Feb 9, 2020)

greatfarid said:


> 3v, 5v and 12v rail lows... sometimes it is 2.8, 4.5, 11,600v etc. and my system shuts down from time to time cause of this problem.
> 
> Should I change my PSU cables? or PSU? But I won't change PSU now that's i'm looking for a solution



This is not a cable problem. 

How do you know your system is shutting down because of your voltages? What is telling you that?

If your PSU +12V rail was really outputting only 6.9V - 8.6V as shown by your HWMonitor readings, your computer would not be working at all. So clearly, either your monitoring software is reading the sensor wrong (it happens), or the sensor is bad (a common problem - they are cheap, low-tech devices) or both. 

Sadly, there is a lot of incorrect information given above. 

Contrary to what was said above, you can NOT conclusively test a PSU with a multimeter or with PSU tester. Those devices can often tell you if a PSU is bad (missing a voltage for example) but they cannot conclusively tell you if a PSU is good! 

trickson is right in that inserting sharp, hardened, highly conductive meter probes into the heart of a computer can be dangerous - even with experienced, properly trained technicians. Yes, you can always use power lead for a drive, but most meters do not test for ripple and it is difficult, at best, to put the PSU under a variety of loads when testing. I keep a PSU Tester in my tool bag in my truck for house calls. The advantage of this model is that it has a LCD readout of the voltages instead of simple indicator lights. But as silentbogo suggests, these typically have a tiny 10Ω load and not a variety of loads. So they are great for seeing if a voltage is missing, but not a conclusive test. 

To properly and conclusively test a PSU, it must be tested under a variety of realistic "loads" then analyzed for excessive ripple and other anomalies that affect computer stability. This is done by a qualified technician using an oscilloscope or power supply analyzer - sophisticated (and expensive!) electronic test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results. Therefore, conclusively testing a power supply is done in properly equipped electronics repair facilities.

Since the vast majority of us do not have such test equipment, the training to use them, or knowledge to understand their results, the best way for "normal" users (and many trained professionals too) to conclusively test a PSU is to swap in a known good PSU and see what happens.


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## trickson (Feb 9, 2020)

Bill_Bright said:


> This is not a cable problem.
> 
> How do you know your system is shutting down because of your voltages? What is telling you that?
> 
> ...


Agreed you can not conclusively test out the PSU with a tester.
But lacking all the other required knowledge and test equipment the best way to test a PSU for a normal user or consumer Is the way I stated.
Thing is very easy just swap out for a known good unit and see, If readings are the same you know it's the MB sensors if it did change then it was the PSU all the time.
In any case you need to get a second new or known good PSU to be sure it's NOT the MB sensors. PERIOD!


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## Bill_Bright (Feb 9, 2020)

trickson said:


> But lacking all the other required knowledge and test equipment the best way to test a PSU for a normal user or consumer Is the way I stated.


No, sorry, but no. Your way is not the best way. 

Even the best testers, like the one I linked to above, do not present the power supply with a variety of realistic loads. Since computers (the motherboard, CPU, graphics, RAM, drives, fans) can go from idle (near zero load) to 100% utilization (demanding 100s of watts from the PSU), to properly and conclusively test a PSU, it MUST be done under a variety of loads. This can not be done using your method with a tester. 

And since ripple and other AC anomalies can affect stability too, and since most multimeters cannot test for ripple, a multimeter cannot be used to properly and conclusively test a PSU either - even if you can submit the PSU to a variety of loads while using a multimeter. So the only way a normal user can properly and conclusively test a PSU is by swapping in another - even if that means borrowing one from another computer. 

Your way will always leave some doubt and since EVERYTHING inside the computer case depends on good, clean, stable power, your way is inadequate and therefore a person could end up replacing an expensive CPU, motherboard, or graphics card only to discover the problem still exists because they are still using a faulty PSU.


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## trickson (Feb 9, 2020)

Bill_Bright said:


> No, sorry, but no. Your way is not the best way.
> 
> Even the best testers, like the one I linked to above, do not present the power supply with a variety of realistic loads. Since computers (the motherboard, CPU, graphics, RAM, drives, fans) can go from idle (near zero load) to 100% utilization (demanding 100s of watts from the PSU), to properly and conclusively test a PSU, it MUST be done under a variety of loads. This can not be done using your method with a tester.
> 
> ...


 It is pointless!


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## Bill_Bright (Feb 9, 2020)

No need to throw a little temper tantrum. This is just basic electronics troubleshooting. When everything depends on proper power, it makes no logical sense to assume you got it without conclusively verifying it. You don't replace an engine without first ensuring you got fresh fuel and a good spark.


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## trickson (Feb 9, 2020)

Bill_Bright said:


> No need to throw a little temper tantrum. This is just basic electronics troubleshooting. When everything depends on proper power, it makes no logical sense to assume you got it without conclusively verifying it. You don't replace an engine without first ensuring you got fresh fuel and a good spark.


You haven't trouble shooted a thing!
You are saying to test this you need to Polk around with a multimeter and saying that a tester is not going to tell you a thing and not once have I heard a conclusive thing.
I said to fix this issue it's relatively easy.
Get a known or new good PSU and test that as well as make sure connections are secure.
Yet all you offered the OP is a bunch of BS the OP more than likely doesn't have the equipment for nor the knowledge needed to run said equipment with that kind of advice it scares me. You can blow the entire computer with ONE stupid mistake Probing around with open conductive metal probes and electronics? Man you are giving out REALLY BAD ADVICE! DANGEROUS ADVICE IMHO!

PSU Testers.


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## Bill_Bright (Feb 9, 2020)

trickson said:


> You haven't trouble shooted a thing!


You can follow the link in my signature to see if I might know a little about electronics troubleshooting or if I have any experience doing it. Any student of electronics knows, you start at the wall. Is it plugged in? Is it turned on? Are you supplying good, clean, stable power?


trickson said:


> You are saying to test this you need to Polk around with a multimeter and saying that a tester is not going to tell you a thing and not once have I heard a conclusive thing.


Then clearly you cannot read for none of that is true. Read what I said! 


trickson said:


> You can blow the entire computer with ONE stupid mistake Probing around with open conductive metal probes and electronics? Man you are giving out REALLY BAD ADVICE! DANGEROUS ADVICE IMHO!


Gee whiz, dude! This is really sad. Are you so blind with your puerile tantrums that you can't even see where I said in post #38 that you were right about sticking probes in electronics? 


Bill_Bright said:


> trickson is right in that inserting sharp, hardened, highly conductive meter probes into the heart of a computer can be dangerous - even with experienced, properly trained technicians.


At least two posters have told you that those testers do NOT provide the necessary variety of loads, yet you persist to insist they are the panacea of PSU troubleshooting.    Did you even notice many of the testers in your link are the exact same tester I linked to that I said I carry with me trouble calls?



trickson said:


> Yet all you offered the OP is a bunch of BS the OP more than likely doesn't have the equipment for nor the knowledge needed to run said equipment


NO! Why can't you follow what people are saying? I was very clear! And YOU even liked my post where I said, 


Bill_Bright said:


> Since the vast majority of us do not have such test equipment, the training to use them, or knowledge to understand their results, the best way for "normal" users (and many trained professionals too) to conclusively test a PSU is to swap in a known good PSU and see what happens.


So make up your mind, trickson!


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## cucker tarlson (Feb 9, 2020)

system stable -no
unstable-yes


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## trickson (Feb 9, 2020)

Bill_Bright said:


> You can follow the link in my signature to see if I might know a little about electronics troubleshooting or if I have any experience doing it. Any student of electronics knows, you start at the wall. Is it plugged in? Is it turned on? Are you supplying good, clean, stable power?
> Then clearly you cannot read for none of that is true. Read what I said!
> Gee whiz, dude! This is really sad. Are you so blind with your puerile tantrums that you can't even see where I said in post #38 that you were right about sticking probes in electronics?
> 
> ...


Clearly you have not read a thing I have posted from the first to now.
No multi meter is needed just a PSU tester and a new PSU period.
You I am sorry to say are making this WAY WAY more complicated than it has to be and WAY more Dangerous as well. (show me ONE multi-meter that doesn't use sharp pointy metal probes, One red one black. all I hear is danger Danger Danger!) Any time you tell some one to probe there PC parts with a multi meter I have to say WAIT!
I can and WILL point that out.
You can now continue your rant as well. Still have yet to call you as a temper tantrum but okay if that is the way you see it.
You can also stop with YOUR temper tantrum as well.
Only way the OP is GOING to get closure is if the OP does what I say your way is well just way out of the WAY! WAY WAY out of the way.


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## Bill_Bright (Feb 9, 2020)

I will repeat what I noted earlier, and repeat what other have noted too. In the OP's screenshot of HWMonitor, it shows the +12V to currently be +6.9V, to be as low as +5.888V with a high of just +8.576V. If those reading were true, that computer would not be running. So as Frick also noted, the system would not start or run fine if those voltages were correct. 


trickson said:


> No multi meter is needed just a PSU tester and a new PSU period.
> You I am sorry to say are making this WAY WAY more complicated than it has to be and WAY more Dangerous as well.
> I can and WILL point that out.


Wow! I NEVER, not once said a multimeter was needed. 
I NEVER, not once, even suggested using a multimeter. 
I did say a PSU tester will NOT verify the PSU works under a variety of or a heavy load - so a tester is inconclusive. 
I did say PSU tester will NOT test for ripple and other AC anomalies that can and do affect stability. So again, a tester is inconclusive. 



trickson said:


> your way is well just way out of the WAY! WAY WAY out of the way.



My way is, and has been from the beginning, to swap in a known good PSU. Oh look! I agreed with you on that point and yet you are still having this tissy fit. 

Again, make up your mind trickson.


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## trickson (Feb 9, 2020)

Bill_Bright said:


> I will repeat what I noted earlier, and repeat what other have noted too. In the OP's screenshot of HWMonitor, it shows the +12V to currently be +6.9V, to be as low as +5.888V with a high of just +8.576V. If those reading were true, that computer would not be running. So as Frick also noted, the system would not start or run fine if those voltages were correct.
> Wow! I NEVER, not once said a multimeter was needed.
> I NEVER, not once, even suggested using a multimeter.
> I did say a PSU tester will NOT verify the PSU works under a variety of or a heavy load - so a tester is inconclusive.
> ...


Well I'm NOT necessarily saying YOU said it. But there has been mention of it and I pointed out the danger is all. Sorry if you got mixed up in it. It is the inter web and well lost in translation?...


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## Bill_Bright (Feb 9, 2020)

trickson said:


> Well I'm NOT necessarily saying YOU said it.


   Sure you did! You quoted my text multiple times, incorrectly claimed that I said this and that, and also referenced other things I really did say. But okay. In the interest of peace, have it your way. 

That said - in the "steady" hands of an experienced user, a multimeter certainly can be used safely. After all, measuring voltages, even deadly voltages, is a primary function of multimeters. However, the issues of testing a computer power supply under a "variety of realistic loads", as well as testing to ensure ripple suppression is adequately within allowed tolerance levels as dictated by the ATX Form Factor standard for PSUs remain as I stated above.


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## trickson (Feb 9, 2020)

Bill_Bright said:


> Sure you did! You quoted my text multiple times, incorrectly claimed that I said this and that, and also referenced other things I really did say. But okay. In the interest of peace, have it your way.
> 
> That said - in the "steady" hands of an experienced user, a multimeter certainly can be used safely. After all, measuring voltages, even deadly voltages, is a primary function of multimeters. However, the issues of testing a computer power supply under a "variety of realistic loads", as well as testing to ensure ripple suppression is adequately within allowed tolerance levels as dictated by the ATX Form Factor standard for PSUs remain as I stated above.


Ok well I'm sorry then. It's one of them lost in translation things is all.


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## Bill_Bright (Feb 9, 2020)

We're good.


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## trickson (Feb 9, 2020)

I sure hope the OP gets back with us in any case. 
I just hate it when stuff isn't working like it should.


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## Bill_Bright (Feb 9, 2020)

We are in "hurry up and wait" mode now.


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