# Mobile Audio?



## DOM (Feb 28, 2016)

Can we discuss that here?


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## 95Viper (Feb 28, 2016)

Ask @bogmali, he is one the mods on the forum...


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## dorsetknob (Feb 28, 2016)

Homeless  living in your car/ RV / Caravan   of course you can


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## Athlon2K15 (Feb 28, 2016)

Id assume so, it is audio/video/HT section. You looking to put together a kickass car audio system?



DOM said:


> haha my minivan lol
> 
> well need a new amp my old subs still bump killed my amp looking for a new one and a new box for 2 15 planet audio bb15dvc


900W RMS is a lot of power, you need a big amp lol

ITs been a long time since I have had any real car audio. I think the most I ever ran were JL Audio 12W3v2's and a 600w JL Audio Monoblock amp lol


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## DOM (Feb 28, 2016)

That's to much work lol 

Been Mia stopped oc and wanted to see if anyone on here is knowledgeable on car audio



dorsetknob said:


> Homeless  living in your car/ RV / Caravan   of course you can


haha my minivan lol



AthlonX2 said:


> Id assume so, it is audio/video/HT section. You looking to put together a kickass car audio system?


well need a new amp my old subs still bump killed my amp looking for a new one and a new box for 2 15 planet audio bb15dvc

Those are the newer ones mine are older lol

BB15DVC
Power Handling (Peak) 1200 Watts
Power Handling (RMS) 600 Watts 
Frequency Response 12 Hz to 350 Hz 
Efficiency (1 Watt /1 Meter) 97 dB 
Impedance Dual 2 OhmMagnet Structure 140 oz.
Mounting Depth 8-1/8

Also box i have is 40"L 17"w 16"h with center vertical port 2"x15.5

Seen a few online similar size but different inside more walls some tuned for different hz. 

Everything is new to me as my subs are about 10 yrs old haha

So any old fart know about amps and subs?

I hate how some companies lie on there specs that's why I'm in loop cuz it's fusustrating


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## Champ (Feb 29, 2016)

Right now I have two dB drive wdx 2ks 12s and the db mini 2k. Beastly setup. Interior is loosening and falling apart. Love me some bass.


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## Filip Georgievski (Feb 29, 2016)

I have a little bit of knowledge around audio.
If you need some stuff, i can recommend door speakers, radios, amps, ellipse speakers and woofers.
JVC, Magnat, JBL, Clarion, Alpine - speakers and woofers
JVC, Alpine, Kenwood, Clarion - radios
Clarion, Kenwood, Pioneer, JBL - Amps

These are stuff i look for when purchasing car audio.
Few months ago i got 2 sets of Magnat 216 edition speakers and a JVC KD-X200 radio with 4 x 50W RMS.
Very nice and cheap combo for anyone looking for simple stereo setup. No need for woofer here, since speakers are very capable of producing woofer like bass.


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## bogmali (Feb 29, 2016)

95Viper said:


> Ask @bogmali, he is one the mods on the forum...



I am a bit skeptical about it since I for one do not have first hand knowledge/experience about the subject and the forum is geared more towards multimedia audio and not much on the mobile side. For now I'll allow it unless I'm told otherwise


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## kenkickr (Feb 29, 2016)

Are you hooking them up via parallel or series?  2ohm or 4ohm subs? Is the box or boxes sealed or ported?  There are tons of options and quality out there and some of the best reliable amps can come from brands you've never heard off like Phoenix Gold, Boston Acoustics, etc.

Looking those subs up I'd recommend a amp that can put out the 900W RMS recommendation.

I would then try to find a quality 1200 Watt RMS amp to power those.

Depending on the amp they could be running in 4ohm if you have a 8ohm amp or 2ohm if the amp is 4ohm or even 1ohm if they are Dual Voice Coil on a 4ohm.....lots of answers/options I know my friend!!!  A great read for you that might help can be found at Crutchfield

Sometimes it can be the equipment of your vehicle that aids in a amps diabolical end. Alternator, battery are the two common weak points.

Are they dual voice coil subs?

I am a Kenwood Excelon deck/amp nut with Kicker speakers/subs...hence my avatar name.  I've never had a issue with either so sticking to my guns.  JL Audio was my first amp/speaker with a Alpine deck setup in my 78 El Camino and they were expensive but very solid.  The place went out of business is the reason why I went to my current lineup back in the day.  Almost 40 now so don't get to play like I did.


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## DOM (Feb 29, 2016)

Just found out mine are hooked up at 4ohm on the sub lol



kenkickr said:


> Are you hooking them up via parallel or series?  2ohm or 4ohm subs? Is the box or boxes sealed or ported?  There are tons of options and quality out there and some of the best reliable amps can come from brands you've never heard off like Phoenix Gold, Boston Acoustics, etc.
> 
> Looking those subs up I'd recommend a amp that can put out the 900W RMS recommendation.



I have two and there not hooked up to each other and ran to the amp separately not sure if that's bad

There 600 RMS and dual 2ohm specs on post 8

There in a dual 15" ported box right now but need a new one

Yeah thats the fun part Idk who's RMS is true and not looking to spend $300+ on a amp 

Was thinking the low $200 but Idk if that's possible to get clean 1200 watts 

So it's okay to run them separate to the amp?

There hooked up at 4ohm what kind of ohm is the amp trying to run with them hooked up like that?

Yeah I been on there the subs can be run at 1ohm alone and 2ohm together Or 4ohm aonle and 8ohm together 

I'm learning more each day lol

But the amp I had was spl Ax2-2000 e-flux 2 chanel amp I was running them both hooked up bridge 

When I first got it had a planet audio but don't remember the series or size but it blew a cap and smoked like crazy is what I remembered paid like 500 for it though think my older brother robbed me cuz he game me that spl and box as replacement smh

I been running them 4ohm Parallel

So let me read more cuz i can run them 1ohm parallel correct?

But now it's like what's better for the subs and amp, Series or parallel?



kenkickr said:


> Are they dual voice coil subs?


yes

BB15DVC

Power Handling (Peak) 1200 Watts

Power Handling (RMS) 600 Watts

Frequency Response 12 Hz to 350 Hz

Efficiency (1 Watt /1 Meter) 97 dB

Impedance Dual 2 Ohm

Magnet Structure 140 oz.

Mounting Depth 8-1/8




jaggerwild said:


> DOM,
> No car audio for you! How you been man?


haha alright moved back to my home town two yrs ago still here ready to gtfo  of here laid off twice in a yr other then that okay lmao going to get my lineman and cdl in April so hope thats a more steady job cuz oilfield was good but not stable and doesn't look good anymore ha

Oh yeah 5th girl next due be here next month yeah I fucked I know lol



Cybrnook2002 said:


> I ran a shop for about 12 years in my teenage to twenties years , make a list of your questions and I will try my best to answer them in a timely fashion.
> 
> (still a sucker for JL audio, all I use)




Yeah they seem to be good still I remember them back in the days lol


I'm looking for a box similar in size to what I have ported dual 15" 40x17x16 LxWxH can be a little larger but not by much

Looking for a good amp that can push 900-1800 RMS cheap but still clean watts



Cybrnook2002 said:


> Any objection to building your own box? If you got the dimension, just run to home depot/lowes and pick up your own 3/4 MDF". Custom shops (not best buy, a real shop) build boxes too (we used to), and typically you can offer a price on the box.
> 
> Pre-built boxes are pretty standard. Unless you get something like a JL HO box, they use some funky tongue in groove methods using one sheet of wood.
> 
> ...


 well length wise there isn't much more room just in H and W there's about 4 more inches or the speakers won't have much more to move

So don't know about building one cuz if I remember they need little below 3 cubic feet it had on the manual but haven't had luck looking it up haha

Yeah I know cheap and clean don't go together lol

But can I get something in the 200 range that's good?

Also what's good series or parallel for these subs? There dvc 2ohm

Well I seen a Planet Audio AC5000.1D put 1700 watts at 1ohm dyno tested amp cost 150$ lol

Yeah I might have to spend more then I want it seems lol 

But what's crazy some amp's are over priced and watts are way off on some brands



Cybrnook2002 said:


> Bam, on clearance:
> 
> http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarA...e_Comparison&gclid=CJDx8rnPncsCFQmqaQodxqYCLA


Haha anything you come across with more volts but look good for the price

I have a 5.0f cap 

More watts 

Is this anygood?http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AUUHBY/?tag=tec06d-20

Don't shoot me haha

What about this....

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CRITGE4/?tag=tec06d-20

What's throwing me off alot of the good name brands don't offer much rms watts but cast an arm and a leg 



Cybrnook2002 said:


> more volts?


I meant Watts

Which box?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/15-inch-BLACK...rinth-Obcon-/361435772926?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Car-Audio-Dua...r-Enclosure-/231839911552?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE

http://m.ebay.com/itm/15-DUAL-VENTE...R-ENCLOSURE-/262314822081?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE

?

Last one I could find in know I should make one but I'm lazy don't have the tools and new baby coming Monday lol

http://m.ebay.com/itm/R-T-Enterpris...sure-328-15-/121031260721?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE

Can anyone answer this since I lost my support it seems 


what ohm will the amp will run with 2 dvc 2ohm subs in parallel at 4ohm or 1ohm?

Cuz I know in series it would run 2ohm is the lowest


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## jaggerwild (Feb 29, 2016)

DOM,
 No car audio for you! How you been man?


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## Cybrnook2002 (Feb 29, 2016)

I ran a shop for about 12 years in my teenage to twenties years , make a list of your questions and I will try my best to answer them in a timely fashion.

(still a sucker for JL audio, all I use)



DOM said:


> Yeah they seem to be good still I remember them back in the days lol
> 
> 
> I'm looking for a box similar in size to what I have ported dual 15" 40x17x16 LxWxH can be a little larger but not by much
> ...


Any objection to building your own box? If you got the dimension, just run to home depot/lowes and pick up your own 3/4 MDF". Custom shops (not best buy, a real shop) build boxes too (we used to), and typically you can offer a price on the box.

Pre-built boxes are pretty standard. Unless you get something like a JL HO box, they use some funky tongue in groove methods using one sheet of wood.


For amp's clean and cheap likely wont be found in the same sentence. I am getting my account reset right now to my wholesaler to see what they have currently that falls into that range of RMS. (They carry JL, MTX etc... will let you know)

900 RMS for $200, likely not. 

My JL Audio 900/5 Amp (which is 900 RMS total) was about $700 when I bought it a few years ago. (Retail was about $1200 at the time)

Stay tuned, when I get my creds I will tell you what I can get.

Bam, on clearance:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarA...e_Comparison&gclid=CJDx8rnPncsCFQmqaQodxqYCLA



DOM said:


> Haha anything you come across with more volts but look good for the price



more volts?


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## Champ (Feb 29, 2016)

Yeah. I'd cheap out on subs before amps but you shouldn't for either. Smoke and fire aren't fun in the car. He might be best going to a shop and getting a starter pack for about 3 or 4 hundred.


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## Athlon2K15 (Feb 29, 2016)

You can't go wrong with MTX,Kicker, JL or even Fosgate

If you are going to push massive amounts of power id suggest you look into getting at least a 1.5 farad cap or the lights in that car will be pulsing with your music. lol . I have still have an old Coustic 401db laying around somewhere if you just want something to get you by


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## Cybrnook2002 (Mar 2, 2016)

Honestly, I know I tapered off cause you are listing doozie equipment  Of all the sub $200 items you are listing, you are basically floating in a pool of all the same, any would be fine if you feel that's what you want. (not sure why you breezed by the 1000 watt MTX I listed ;-) )

I feel you would be fine at a 2 ohm load. MTX always underrates their amps, so you will likely be around 700-750 RMS (True RMS), not a cheap doozie amp that calculates off of a 24volt load for 2 seconds. (Yes, they cheat like that).

And unless your planning on adding a few optima yellow tops on a battery isolator and upgrading your alternator as well as upgrading your ground wires , then your not doing it right to begin with as you are looking to draw currents your car is not designed for  ;-).

It's all a circuit. So if you (and will need to) run 2 to 0 gauge power wire from the battery, you will need to ground the amp as well. Typically someone thinks that just running a 2 - 0 gauge ground wire to a seat belt bolt is good enough, WRONG. Because your still returning back to the car battery over its stock  (typically 8 gauge) ground wire.

Common reason for headlight dimming as well.

No, what I am saying is when you ground your amp to the body, you car frame becomes the common ground. It then is connected back to your negative battery terminal by your stock ground wire. That needs to be upgraded.

You need to match what you are using for the amp while ALSO calculating for what your car is pulling. This is for the chassis to battery lead. So you Chassis to battery should be slightly larger than what you are using on your amp lead for positive.


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## DOM (Mar 2, 2016)

Well I can't run 1ohm so I won't be able to get the full 1000 rms just 600 rms at 2ohms that's why I needed more watts 

If I set the subs at @ 1ohm parallel it's .5 ohm and 4 ohm parallel 2 ohm?

Parallel is hooking up the sub separate correct?

Why you no answer me lol 

Well just saw a utube and had to find my volt meter and found my old one had to jack the 9v from the smoke alarm lol 

Shows 2.6-2.7 ohms with both wires together from the subs 

But ones 4.2 and 6.6 separate that doesn't sound good...


And yeah seems I'm going to have to also invest in that I just spent 200 on a battery should of got a better one then the duralast h7 the car needs and Stock alternators only 160 amp

The terminal on the box was loose

Okay now down to 2.3 2.2 ohm so guess that's good 

And what do you mean the ground wires? To the amp or to the car?

It has 4 gage and the cap is grounded to the body in the rear next to the amp and cap

So it needs to be grounded to the battery ugh not grounded anywhere?  Shit, that's cuz I paid for them to put the line from the battery to the amp and that lil box for the rca

Okay yeah the battery are lil smaller then the 4 gage not by much

Stinger SK6201 a good kit? Cheapest I found was $117 

But it's 1/0 gauge

So you need to use the 2/0 in the engine also right? Ground and power on the battery alternator?


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## taz420nj (Mar 2, 2016)

Just something to keep in mind, the lower the ohms, the less control the amp has over the subs.  Basically low ohms (<2) is only good for SPL - just a really loud system where you don't care much about quality.  If you actually want the bass to be tight and responsive, and sound like it's supposed to instead of a giant loose fart, stick with 2 or 4 ohms.

And no, you shouldn't run grounds back to the battery. Grounds should be as short as possible because longer grounds make great antennas for picking up EMI/RFI.  But what you DO need to do is increase the size of the grounds from the battery to the frame, battery to chassis, and battery to engine block.


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## sneekypeet (Mar 2, 2016)

@DOM just because you have not been around in forever, does not mean the standards at TPU on posting in a thread have changed any. Please use the edit button from now on and stop posting multiple times without a responce between them!


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## taz420nj (Mar 3, 2016)

DOM said:


> So you need to use the 2/0 in the engine also right? Ground and power on the battery alternator?



The large stock wiring is mainly only being fully utilized while starting - the starter pulls 150 amps or more depending on how old and what kind of vehicle it is - and the wiring has to be able to handle that.  But the actual demand of the car's systems while running is only about 40-50 amps total.   Once you start talking wire sizes up into the aughts, the demand of the vehicle itself becomes a rather insignificant factor unless you're running multiple thousands of watts..  If you were to replace the current ground wires (which are probably 6 or 4 gauge) with 1/0, it will be fine for handing both the amp and the vehicle demands.  There's really no reason to use 2/0 unless the amp demands it (1/0 is designed for up to 325A - which would be almost 3500W using a Class D/monoblock amp, 2/0 is designed for up to 400A)..  The stock alternator isn't going to be able to keep up with that kind of power demand anyway, so if you're running that kind of power the wiring is only one thing you need to consider - otherwise you won't have enough power to keep the car running anyway.  

The other wires you will want to upgrade is the charging wire that goes from the big post on the alternator to the fuse box, and the one from the fuse box to the battery (if this is a significantly older vehicle, it may simply go from the alternator directly to the battery).


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## Champ (Mar 3, 2016)

I have a yellow top under the hood, a medium sized kinetic in the back and 0 gauge big 3. I still need a bigger alt. I want to upgrade to CT Sounds audio and get their subs and run two of their 1400s. A smallish setup like that can pull a ton of current.


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## DOM (Mar 3, 2016)

Seen while searching around you can get more amps out of the stock but not sure how, Cuz I'm not sure there's a aftermarket for my car plus it's fwd

It's the opposite side of the battery on drivers side alt. On passenger's side and on the side near the firewall.... fml


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## flmatter (Mar 3, 2016)

What kind of car do you have? Year, make model?

edit - or do a google search for high amp alternator and find the right one for your car.


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## DOM (Mar 3, 2016)

$400 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_88681_Mechman-Alternators-11580240.html



2011 dodge grand caravan 3.6L V6 Pentastar


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## taz420nj (Mar 3, 2016)

MMkay like I said, with what you're looking at you're not going to be drawing that much power continuously so you shouldn't have a problem.  I can't find the specs on the stock alternator by the Mopar number but the Denso replacement (Chryslers use a lot of Denso parts in the factory) is 160A, but there is also a 150A replacement available..  In your PDC - the fuse box under the hood - there will be a large fuse bolted between the wire to the battery and the wire to the alternator.  That fuse should be 140A, 150A, or 160A.  That will tell you what your alternator rating is.

Basically the way it works is you can have up to 160A total draw and still keep the battery charged while driving.  Since the voltage regulator/alternator aren't responsive enough to keep up with a dynamic load like the amplifier, your battery and capacitor work as buffers.  The cap can discharge its entire load instantly to buffer the huge bass drum hits, while the battery can buffer sustained draws in excess of what the alternator is putting out (long bass notes).  The battery recharges the cap, and the alternator recharges the battery - but unless you are driving around ghetto blasting people's windows out, the system will never be pulling its maximum current all the time..  As long as the *AVERAGE draw* doesn't exceed the alternator's output, you'll be okay.  Another thing you can do is put an overdrive pulley (smaller diameter, spins faster) on the alternator to make sure it reaches its peak output at a lower engine RPM.


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## DOM (Mar 4, 2016)

Stock shows 160a but couldn't find the fuse and inside the box there's isn't a 100 anything

But got the amp in today probably going to get stoned to death lmao box isn't due toll next week so didn't wanna push it to hard

Idle is around 15v then drops to 12v when taking a load reading on cap volts reading screen


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## xvi (Mar 4, 2016)

Cybrnook2002 said:


> Bam, on clearance:
> 
> http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarA...e_Comparison&gclid=CJDx8rnPncsCFQmqaQodxqYCLA


I'm going to try to keep the thread hijacking to a minimum. Is the goal of this amp "loud and clean"? If so, would a lower RMS amp do well for less of a "rattle building windows as you drive by" and more just "adding clean bass presence"?

Car audio sub-forums would be nice. I need to figure out what to do with my 98 Grand Prix with the premium audio package (more of a going-aftermarket nightmare package). Maybe they'd fit better over in general nonsense though?



Cybrnook2002 said:


> Well this particular amp I listed is a Nice, 1000 watt (at 1-ohm) class D amplifier. This is an amp strictly for subwoofers.
> 
> With that said, MTX (and a few other brands Alpine, JL Audio, MTX, ) is a reputable company that I have worked with for years and never had issues. They make quality products, and as far as subs and amps go I would categorize them in my A to B list. Yes, this would be a "loud and clean" (and reliable) amp.
> 
> ...


First of all, 

Secondly, would there be any reason to take this "loud and clean (and reliable)" amp over a lower powered version of the same amp if I'm not worried about shaking earth? I assume there will be a slight loss in accuracy, but other than that?
(I just have some Kicker 40CS6934 6x9s in the back for low freq only. The factory low-freq amp doesn't have a rating on it, but cracking it open and reading the part numbers off the mosfets, it looks like it's about 75w per channel [and probably ~25w RMS]. Considering just adapting the 6x9 holes to 6.5" and going for something meant for bass. I should probably get my own thread. )




Cybrnook2002 said:


> It's all the same at that point. If the smaller brother, say the 500D fit's the bill for you then technically there is no need for the 1000D. But if they are coming in around the same price (that is the key here), then get the bigger brother and just keep the gain down. Until down the road one day you decide the upgrade to something larger, you already have the backbone to do it.


Huh. If they're similarly priced, the 1000D would definitely make sense.


Cybrnook2002 said:


> This is a Class D sub amp, so it's range is only 10 - 220 Hz. This wont work for your 6x9's. You want either a 2 or 4 channel for something that is Mid/High range in the frequency spectrum.


Oh, I know the current setup isn't ideal. The 6x9 from the factory outputs low-frequency only by design (factory amp has a low freq filter). Mids and highs are handled by two rear 4" speakers (left and right) right next to them. The previous owner replaced the factory 6x9s with some Pioneers, then blew one of the speakers and channels on the amp. I replaced the amp with another factory one and the 6x9s with some Kickers that were on sale (~150w RMS I think?).

I think a four-channel would be really nice to have and I'll probably go with one in the future, but I think the first thing I should be doing is replacing the tired old factory speakers everywhere else with something new.

For me, loud isn't the goal, I'd just like to be able to drown out road noise going down the road. Just to keep things tidy, I'd like to try to stick to something close to stock setup, but I realize the 6x9s are going to be a limitation (or at least switch to 6x9 components and throw out the tweeters).

I'm starting to think I really should make my own thread. Thanks again for your insights!
DOM, thanks for letting me thread hijack for a bit!


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## DOM (Mar 4, 2016)

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JQ4MP8/?tag=tec06d-20


xvi said:


> I'm going to try to keep the thread hijacking to a minimum. Is the goal of this amp "loud and clean"? If so, would a lower RMS amp do well for less of a "rattle building windows as you drive by" and more just "adding clean bass presence"?
> 
> Car audio sub-forums would be nice. I need to figure out what to do with my 98 Grand Prix with the premium audio package (more of a going-aftermarket nightmare package). Maybe they'd fit better over in general nonsense though?


np hijacking lol

What I've learned is there's more factors to add in if you want to push alot of watts, but also depends on what your looking for also matters.

subs are for the feel of the music but there's a wide range of options and setups you need to look at depends on your needs and budget

Also checked I'm running stock audio system on the car just added this for the amp

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JQ4MP8/?tag=tec06d-20

Sound like ass? Lmao yeah ppl don't know where it's coming from at the lights cuz who has bass in a minivan haha

One of my wife's friends on fb made a post "bass in a minivan wow lol"

That was the day my amp burned up haha

But I know what your saying about quality lol I just don't have alot to blow on that right now but did learn more then I did on amp's and subs and how to hook them up ohm wise 

That amp is meant for subwoofers like he said xvi

If you want the loud bass you need to add a subwoofer

Cybrnook2002 what type of box do you have on your sub?


Haha I can hear the music over the bass and I haven't felt the bass hit that hard where it's hard to breathe in a long time my oldest brother had a 85 iroc forgot what he had in it but had like 4 subs and that was the last time I felt it hit hard or my body had gotten use to it or the fat layer gotten to big haha

Haha now that's crazy 24x12" lol

And yeah I remember that is even more crazy

My first sub/s was a solo bric L7 12 or 15 need to check but Idk what was up but blew two of them still have them Idk why lol

But I wonder if they where even hooked up right to begin with cuz to blow two doesn't seem right

Was going to get 2 18" L7 but didn't after they blew and these planet audio big bang 15 have been still kicking Idk how haha


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## Cybrnook2002 (Mar 4, 2016)

xvi said:


> I'm going to try to keep the thread hijacking to a minimum. Is the goal of this amp "loud and clean"? If so, would a lower RMS amp do well for less of a "rattle building windows as you drive by" and more just "adding clean bass presence"?
> 
> Car audio sub-forums would be nice. I need to figure out what to do with my 98 Grand Prix with the premium audio package (more of a going-aftermarket nightmare package). Maybe they'd fit better over in general nonsense though?


Well this particular amp I listed is a Nice, 1000 watt (at 1-ohm) class D amplifier. This is an amp strictly for subwoofers.

With that said, MTX (and a few other brands Alpine, JL Audio, MTX, ) is a reputable company that I have worked with for years and never had issues. They make quality products, and as far as subs and amps go I would categorize them in my A to B list. Yes, this would be a "loud and clean" (and reliable) amp.

Now to your second part of your question. It's not the amp the causes the rattle the earth everywhere you drive, that's what the driver was after (and I have since many years already, outgrown that phase and I chase clarity and sound quality now). But even then, that does not stop you from putting in a powerful amp for your speakers and subs, you don't HAVE to crank that gain to 10. Many speakers operate within and operating range of wattage. Some have higher sensitivity, meaning you will get a loud sound at a lower wattage, and some have lower sensitivity requiring higher wattage for peak performance (typically subs). I personally have 1 x JL 10w6v3 in my BMW M 2 door, along with 2 x sets of JL C3 650 components. I use a JL 900/5 amplifier which is feeding 100 watts per channels for my mid/high speakrs (4 sets) and 500 watts to my sub all RMS. Now the W6 can take up to 600 (and more if you want), but I don't NEED to feed it that much for it to perform optimally. Plus I have my stereo calibrated for SQ, so I can pop in Meshuggah and jam for a while, then flip over to listen to some mind numbing Drake or Little Wayne or something and not have to adjust any dials  (because it's tuned)

All my sound stays within the car (for the most part) as I have the vehicle sound deadened. So, a tldr, more or less watts is not the determining factor to rattle rattle. It's the type of sub you use and the box. For example, our OP I can already imagine is the rattle rattle guy  since he wants to run 2 x 15" woofers in a ported box (or band-pass would work too). It will sound like ass and all you will hear is pressure and the inability to breath, BUT, that is what he is after. I used to do the same  So, for a bad example to demonstrate that AMP is not the determining factor, he could hook his speakers up to a 4 channel 400 watt amp and bridge both channels to each sub and run them at 200 watts each and still get that boom boom affect, it will sound like a wet fart, but it would work.

When you invest in car audio, the amp is the most important part. Speakers are secondary. Get the best amp you can for you $, and dial it down if its a larger amp (quality over quantity).



xvi said:


> First of all,
> 
> Secondly, would there be any reason to take this "loud and clean (and reliable)" amp over a lower powered version of the same amp if I'm not worried about shaking earth? I assume there will be a slight loss in accuracy, but other than that?
> (I just have some Kicker 40CS6934 6x9s in the back for low freq only. The factory low-freq amp doesn't have a rating on it, but cracking it open and reading the part numbers off the mosfets, it looks like it's about 75w per channel [and probably ~25w RMS]. Considering just adapting the 6x9 holes to 6.5" and going for something meant for bass. I should probably get my own thread. )


It's all the same at that point. If the smaller brother, say the 500D fit's the bill for you then technically there is no need for the 1000D. But if they are coming in around the same price (that is the key here), then get the bigger brother and just keep the gain down. Until down the road one day you decide the upgrade to something larger, you already have the backbone to do it.

This is a Class D sub amp, so it's range is only 10 - 220 Hz. This wont work for your 6x9's. You want either a 2 or 4 channel for something that is Mid/High range in the frequency spectrum.



DOM said:


> Sound like ass? Lmao yeah ppl don't know where it's coming from at the lights cuz who has bass in a minivan haha
> 
> One of my wife's friends on fb made a post "bass in a minivan wow lol"
> 
> ...


You know what I mean  The point of having any other speaker in your car OTHER than subs at this point is purely for asthetic reasons  You may hear some clicks and pops here and there, but all you will hear is BFOOOOOOOOMP BFOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMP 

I made a custom fiberglass enclosure for it that tucks into a side cubby in the trunk.

And I am not hating on bass in a minivan at all. One of the shops I used to work at when I was younger, we built up a Ford Astro van with 24 x 12's inside of it   So I am very familiar with bass in a minivan  It's actually the perfect kind of vehicle for something like that. Remember the MTX Jackahmmer ?
http://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...ckhammer-seen-pimp-my-ride-mtx-jackhammer.jpg

Here are you alternators:


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## DOM (Mar 4, 2016)

xvi said:


> Huh. If they're similarly priced, the 1000D would definitely make sense.
> 
> Oh, I know the current setup isn't ideal. The 6x9 from the factory outputs low-frequency only by design (factory amp has a low freq filter). Mids and highs are handled by two rear 4" speakers (left and right) right next to them. The previous owner replaced the factory 6x9s with some Pioneers, then blew one of the speakers and channels on the amp. I replaced the amp with another factory one and the 6x9s with some Kickers that were on sale (~150w RMS I think?).
> 
> ...



Your not listening lol

The 1000D is for subwoofers only you won't get any voice out of it it doesnt do mid or highs

You can add a sub like I did on stock system


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## bogmali (Mar 4, 2016)

sneekypeet said:


> @DOM just because you have not been around in forever, does not mean the standards at TPU on posting in a thread have changed any. Please use the edit button from now on and stop posting multiple times without a response between them!



The same goes for 3-4 of you that double/triple/quad post on the same day


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