# Tarantula Case Desk [kustom pc mawds, india]



## de.das.dude (Feb 8, 2014)

The Design: Some final tweaks still need to be made.
designed in simple and free Sketchup.





































































Materials :- high quality wood ply. and some bits of acrylic with metallic round hole mesh inserts.

A package  arrives:




Lots of HDD cages!


 

 

 

 

 






some new tools required for the job. A jigsaw, some c-clamps and an assortment of blades.




Trying out the jigsaw:


 


i like it.


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## micropage7 (Feb 8, 2014)

nice start, but anyway it kind reminds me of leep


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## de.das.dude (Feb 8, 2014)

micropage7 said:


> nice start, but anyway it kind reminds me of leep


you mean l3p?
hes been helping me here and there lol.


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## micropage7 (Feb 8, 2014)

de.das.dude said:


> you mean l3p?
> hes been helping me here and there lol.


o yeah, yep l3p 
but anyway with placing psu like that you couldnt hide those cables


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## de.das.dude (Feb 8, 2014)

yes and no. modular so not all wires are needed.
also this isnt the final design. the motherboard and other things will get changed


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## de.das.dude (Feb 9, 2014)

*The Donor Case:*
Rosewill Blackhawk Ultra. A previous window mod had been done my me on this; links in the signature.




*Stripping It Down*
1. Fans, hdd easy removes, and a kilometer of wires; along with the top and front.




2.oops some fans still left.






much better

3. After a drilling out the rivets, and a lot of fisticuffs with the drive cage:
sans drive bays




and the drive bays.



The easy mount mechanism of the drive bays will be integrated into the drive bays of the build.
The 5.25" drive bays will remain as is.

4. So many screws and fixings.



yes thats an egg carton. those are handy for storing different types of screws temporarily.


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## micropage7 (Feb 9, 2014)

with bigger space, i guess better if it looks like has no cables, maybe you can add some cover to make it clean


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## de.das.dude (Feb 9, 2014)

micropage7 said:


> with bigger space, i guess better if it looks like has no cables, maybe you can add some cover to make it clean


THERE ARE COVERS. LOOK AT THE IMAGES CAREFULLY YOULL SEE THE CORVERS ON STANDOFFS AS WELL AS THE MOTHERBOARD AND PSU TRAYS.

believe me; im the most crazy level perfectionist/nitpicker ever possible 
the design has already gone through atleast 6 revisions.


the psu and mobo tray is metallic, but the wire covers are all acrylic including that light up tarantula logo thing. that will be made out of acrylic.
the will be around 30mm of space beneath the trays and the wire covers  for routing.
covers will be mounted using velcro strips on the standoffs and respective places.


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## Bo$$ (Feb 9, 2014)

If you shuffle it around you could easily put 2 pc's inside


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## de.das.dude (Feb 9, 2014)

Bo$$ said:


> If you shuffle it around you could easily put 2 pc's inside


true, there is space for another motherboard. but thats for the future. currently will fit any eatx sized dual socket board.


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## de.das.dude (Feb 9, 2014)

After complete disassembly, my hands were too filthy to take pictures, sorry for that. Anyways, went straight to cleaning.
1. Rubber grommets cleaned and dried




2. Fans were too filthy and need acetone to clean, which i didnt have enough off, so stored away for laters




3. Case disassembled, cleaned and stored away for then night




thats it for today. 4hours put in so far, so good.


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## remixedcat (Feb 9, 2014)

wile--e would hate this


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## Udit (Feb 9, 2014)

Great Job Bro 
My rig will look great now 



remixedcat said:


> wile--e would hate this



Why would he hate it?


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## de.das.dude (Feb 9, 2014)

Udit said:


> Great Job Bro
> My rig will look great now
> 
> 
> ...


he has arachnophobia. even the cute looking ones scare him


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## Udit (Feb 9, 2014)

de.das.dude said:


> he has arachnophobia. even the cute looking ones scare him



Ah Shucks but even I have arachnophobia


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## d1nky (Feb 9, 2014)

yoooo DDD good to see ya modding, im subbed!

one question, why not a floating motherboard?? get that thing raised, trim the tray so its not exposed and decent lighting. would look great!

kind of miss modding, maybe do a summer project if i got time.


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## de.das.dude (Feb 9, 2014)

d1nky said:


> yoooo DDD good to see ya modding, im subbed!
> 
> one question, why not a floating motherboard?? get that thing raised, trim the tray so its not exposed and decent lighting. would look great!
> 
> kind of miss modding, maybe do a summer project if i got time.


it is indeed 30mm above the base. wires hath flow underneath thy tray.

i can trim the tray...
but what would the wires say?

ringdingdingtingdingidingiding...


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## d1nky (Feb 9, 2014)

de.das.dude said:


> it is indeed 30mm above the base. wires hath flow underneath thy tray.
> 
> i can trim the tray...
> but what would the wires say?
> ...



add another 20mm 

btw wires dont speak lol


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## MakeDeluxe (Feb 9, 2014)

d1nky said:


> wires dont speak lol


I wouldn't be so sure about that


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## de.das.dude (Feb 9, 2014)

d1nky said:


> add another 20mm
> 
> btw wires dont speak lol


wires tell you how much effort you actually put into design
you need to think ~poetically~


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## MakeDeluxe (Feb 9, 2014)

Speaking about wires, how're you gonna do the power/SATA cables for the army of HDD's?


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## de.das.dude (Feb 9, 2014)

they are gonna pop under the acrylic covers and emerge in front.
will be finishing the final design tomorrow. will be a dual pc build this one X_X


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## MT Alex (Feb 9, 2014)

de.das.dude said:


> but what would the wires say?
> 
> ringdingdingtingdingidingiding...



You're going straight to hell for that one.


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## kn00tcn (Feb 9, 2014)

sketchup needs antialiasing, i always turn on AA or force it in driver when i'm using 3d tools, much more pleasant

now... all those fans... have you calculated if this will be positive or negative pressure?


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## de.das.dude (Feb 10, 2014)

kn00tcn said:


> sketchup needs antialiasing, i always turn on AA or force it in driver when i'm using 3d tools, much more pleasant
> 
> now... all those fans... have you calculated if this will be positive or negative pressure?


it will be neutral, exactly and the total volume of the case will be completely displaced 9 times a minute. so alls good


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## de.das.dude (Feb 10, 2014)

*Extracting the Front IO*
The front IO and the HDD easy dock will be salvaged and implemented into the new chassis.

1. Removing the front bezel:
Behold, a front bezel from the back side




Look at that mess of wires, and how they are cramped into that little place.





3. Getting rid of the removeable wiring.



At first glance it would seem that the whole square outlined bit is a separate unit and should lift off after bending away the mesh tabs.
however rosewill decided it to be best to glue the whole thing in place. This means i have to do a ton more work and rape the are around the bits i want to salvage.


4. De-mesh & de-filter





5. Cutting out the square bit.
Now, i wasnt completely sure that the hdd dock wont be useable so i first cut out the whole thing, the cut had to be 3d and include the top of the front bezel completely since the top had some mounting places for the PCB and would require precision cutting, that will not be possible on the cumbersome bezel itself.




6. Lift off!




7. Rough cleaning the edges:
Here i remove the mounting places and some reinforcements. Couldnt get a cutting disc in there, so i just sheared them off with pliers.







8. Extracting I/O
I realised salvaging the hdd dock wont be possible and could save either the dock or the I/O, since the latter was more important, the dock got destroyed for its sake..
Extracted




9. Finishing off with filing and cleaning.
a lot of filing and a quick clean with a wet brush did the trick




Thats a lot of work done; but i managed to do it all in 2hours putting the total time at 6hours.


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## Dak77 (Feb 10, 2014)

I always enjoy looking at these deskbuilds - one day i may actually try one myself..
A question thou? With all those fans facing forward - aint you afraid you'll have one he** of airflow around your precious parts?
Personally i would make sure to have the intakes on both short sides, and out the back, keeping the front clear of fans - but thats a matter of taste i guess


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## de.das.dude (Feb 10, 2014)

Dak77 said:


> I always enjoy looking at these deskbuilds - one day i may actually try one myself..
> A question thou? With all those fans facing forward - aint you afraid you'll have one he** of airflow around your precious parts?
> Personally i would make sure to have the intakes on both short sides, and out the back, keeping the front clear of fans - but thats a matter of taste i guess


silent fans dont make gale force winds.


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## Ahhzz (Feb 10, 2014)

/tag


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## PopcornMachine (Feb 10, 2014)

nice renders of design.


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## ne6togadno (Feb 11, 2014)

have you slept during all your ergonomics classes


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## de.das.dude (Feb 11, 2014)

ne6togadno said:


> have you slept during all your ergonomics classes


lol what XD i dont get you...


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## micropage7 (Feb 11, 2014)

cover for motherboard power pins i mean.
btw how many drives you gonna put there since you give much space for drives


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## Udit (Feb 11, 2014)

micropage7 said:


> cover for motherboard power pins i mean.
> btw how many drives you gonna put there since you give much space for drives



Two Rigs with 9 Drives each


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## micropage7 (Feb 11, 2014)

Udit said:


> Two Rigs with 9 Drives each


yeah, DDD gives room for 9x2 drives, but he will fill all the drive bays?
some modder place tray or something for aesthetic reason, like putting 4 bays is better than 3 bays since it will look much better


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## ne6togadno (Feb 11, 2014)

de.das.dude said:


> lol what XD i dont get you...


how deep is the box (cm, mm, in, whatever you like)


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## Udit (Feb 11, 2014)

micropage7 said:


> yeah, DDD gives room for 9x2 drives, but he will fill all the drive bays?
> some modder place tray or something for aesthetic reason, like putting 4 bays is better than 3 bays since it will look much better



A Rampage IV Black Edition ROG Panel in one.
A 4 in 3 Hot Swap HDD Cage in another for Data Transfer to friends HDD's.



ne6togadno said:


> how deep is the box (cm, mm, in, whatever you like)



W3.5ft x D2.3ft inches x H1ft


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## de.das.dude (Feb 11, 2014)

ne6togadno said:


> how deep is the box (cm, mm, in, whatever you like)





Udit said:


> A Rampage IV Black Edition ROG Panel in one.
> A 4 in 3 Hot Swap HDD Cage in another for Data Transfer to friends HDD's.
> 
> 
> ...



there u go.


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## ne6togadno (Feb 11, 2014)

ok
take 1ft ruler sit down on the chair with feet on the floor place ruler at about 5-10cm above your femorals and measure 1ft in vertical direction.
at the end of the ruler is where the top of your desk will be.
how do you plan to use that.


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## Udit (Feb 11, 2014)

ne6togadno said:


> ok
> take 1ft ruler sit down on the chair with feet on the floor place ruler at about 5-10cm above your femorals and measure 1ft in vertical direction.
> at the end of the ruler is where the top of your desk will be.
> how do you plan to use that.



Well normal cabinets are 9.5-10" with one layer of hdd's but this has 2 layers of hdd's stacked so 12" is needed in my opinion because the cages are 11.8" high when stacked upon each other.

Also more space is never bad in my opinion but less space is very bad.

Just imagine a large case labs (TX10-D) laid down sideways.

http://www.caselabs-store.com/magnum-tx10-d/


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## de.das.dude (Feb 11, 2014)

ne6togadno said:


> ok
> take 1ft ruler sit down on the chair with feet on the floor place ruler at about 5-10cm above your femorals and measure 1ft in vertical direction.
> at the end of the ruler is where the top of your desk will be.
> how do you plan to use that.



you know you dont have to be smart ass right? how do you even know how this will be used?
this will lie separate on top of the table.
the monitor and peripherals are far away.


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## ne6togadno (Feb 11, 2014)

Udit said:


> Well normal cabinets are 9.5-10" with one layer of hdd's but this has 2 layers of hdd's stacked so 12" is needed in my opinion because the cages are 11.8" high when stacked upon each other.
> 
> Also more space is never bad in my opinion but less space is very bad.


i dont speak about working inside. i speak about sitting infront of the desk and using kb for example.
and yes normal cabinates are 10" but at they are thiner at chair possition so that 10" ticknes goes at the sides of the user.




de.das.dude said:


> you know you dont have to be smart ass right? how do you even know how this will be used?
> this will lie separate on top of the table.
> the monitor and peripherals are far away.
> you deserve a kick in the gnads.
> ...


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## Udit (Feb 11, 2014)

ne6togadno said:


> i dont speak about working inside. i speak about sitting infront of the desk and using kb for example.
> and yes normal cabinates are 10" but at they are thiner at chair possition so that 10" ticknes goes at the sides of the user.


*
My Room Layout :*


 

 




 

 




 

 



Chill DDD it was a genuine question.


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## ne6togadno (Feb 11, 2014)

Udit said:


> *My Room Layout :*
> 
> 
> 
> ...



are you in the bed?
how that respiratory machine works? how often do you have to use it? is it electrical only or it has electronics that can be affected by bluetooth or 2.4/5ghz electromagnetic waves? do you have other medical equipment that can be affected from microwaves?
you lay only in position from pics or your bed level is changeable? how often is needed to be changed?
what is the level of your disability?
for how long dust from the pictures in the rosewell case that you cannibalize has been collected?  what is the effect of the dusty environment to your condition?
what is max current that can supply white plugs on the wall behind the bed? does the wall cable for that plug has big enough cross section to support 8x that current? beside respiratory machine what else must be plugged in it?
you have 2pcs, ps3, 360. what else? big screen on the wall is tv only or it is connected to your stuff?
why do you need 24 hhds? you plan to dl interent?
for what you will use that dual cpu rig? do you have it already or you gonna buy it?
hat AC on the wall is standard split system or it suck air from outside and supply it in the room? when was the last time its dust filters and heat exchanger has been washed? what is its model and manufacturer?


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## FX-GMC (Feb 11, 2014)

ne6togadno said:


> are you in the bed?
> how that respiratory machine works? how often do you have to use it? is it electrical only or it has electronics that can be affected by bluetooth or 2.4/5ghz electromagnetic waves? do you have other medical equipment that can be affected from microwaves?
> you lay only in position from pics or your bed level is changeable? how often is needed to be changed?
> what is the level of your disability?
> ...



I just felt the need to say that this is a ridiculous post.


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## Udit (Feb 11, 2014)

ne6togadno said:


> are you in the bed?
> how that respiratory machine works? how often do you have to use it? is it electrical only or it has electronics that can be affected by bluetooth or 2.4/5ghz electromagnetic waves? do you have other medical equipment that can be affected from microwaves?
> you lay only in position from pics or your bed level is changeable? how often is needed to be changed?
> what is the level of your disability?
> ...



How does the respiratory machine work as in?
It is electrical only.
The bed level is changeable and it's is changed when and if I need it to be changed.
Just my mouth, eyes, ears and right hands 3 fingers work.
The dust took 2 months to accumulate. The dusty environment doesn't effect my condition because I was born in India which is like that.
I got bedridden and started needing the respirator at the age of 17 (because duchenne muscular dystrophy progresses slowly) so was used to dust by then.
The walls behind the bed can give 3300W and my respirator and oxygen concentrator use 800W max.
The Audio equipment and Computers are on individual lines which supply 1300W each and are not using the line which is behind the bed.
I have 2 pc's, a ps3, a xbox 360, a Onkyo TX-SR508, a QSC RMX 1450, a Beheringer DCX2496 and a 75" tv which together consume 3000W max.
The big screen is connected to the pc, ps3, xbox 360 and a set top box.
Parents (yes they stay in the same room) use the tv at night after 8pm and I use the tv when I want to.
I have the os in a 512GB Samsung 840 Pro SSD and 20TB in 8 HDD's in pc #1 and the os in a 240GB Mushkin Callisto Deluxe SSD and 20TB in 8 HDD's (clone of the hdd's of pc #1)  in pc #2
The ac is a standard split. 
The ac is a Panasonic CS-XC24PKY which has a separate power line supplying it the 1500-2100W it needs.


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## Ahhzz (Feb 11, 2014)

FX-GMC said:


> I just felt the need to say that this is a ridiculous post.


While a bit on the unfriendly/clinical side, I'd like to give him the benefit of the doubt, and say he's actually interested in the environ, and may actually have some constructive input based on the responses.


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## Udit (Feb 12, 2014)

Ahhzz said:


> While a bit on the unfriendly/clinical side, I'd like to give him the benefit of the doubt, and say he's actually interested in the environ, and may actually have some constructive input based on the responses.



That is what I thought thus I replied.


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## micropage7 (Feb 12, 2014)

de.das.dude said:


> you know you dont have to be smart ass right? how do you even know how this will be used?
> this will lie separate on top of the table.
> the monitor and peripherals are far away.


anyway what kind of red that you want to use for the table?


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## Udit (Feb 12, 2014)

micropage7 said:


> anyway what kind of red that you want to use for the table?



the table is white


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## de.das.dude (Feb 12, 2014)

micropage7 said:


> anyway what kind of red that you want to use for the table?


if u mean desk and by that mean the case, then red like the one in my avatar.


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## ne6togadno (Feb 12, 2014)

Udit said:


> How does the respiratory machine work as in?


nvm you explained it later.



Udit said:


> The bed level is changeable and it's is changed when and if I need it to be changed.


will it be of any facilitation for you and your family if bed lvl chainging is electrical and can be done with one button only. can you pls upload pictures of the lvl locking mechanism and hinges but pls use tpu fileshare.
what is material of the plates of the bed on which you lay on - wood, plastic or metal.



Udit said:


> The dust took 2 months to accumulate. The dusty environment doesn't effect my condition because I was born in India which is like that.
> I got bedridden and started needing the respirator at the age of 17 (because duchenne muscular dystrophy progresses slowly) so was used to dust by then.


i kind of disagree with this "which is like that". i am not a doc but i strongly doubt that dusty environment doesnt affect at all your respiratory problems. with easy accessable materials and some hand work amount of dust coming from outside can be vastly reduced.
what are the window frames made from. wood or pvc. there is a door with anti-inscet mesh. door leads to balcony? is there other way to access balcony or this is the only door.



Udit said:


> The walls behind the bed can give 3300W and my respirator and oxygen concentrator use 800W max.
> The Audio equipment and Computers are on individual lines which supply 1300W each and are not using the line which is behind the bed.
> I have 2 pc's, a ps3, a xbox 360, a Onkyo TX-SR508, a QSC RMX 1450, a Beheringer DCX2496 and a 75" tv which together consume 3000W max.
> The big screen is connected to the pc, ps3, xbox 360 and a set top box.
> Parents (yes they stay in the same room) use the tv at night after 8pm and I use the tv when I want to.


a lot of stuff and huge mess with cables. if we put aside problems with handling (cleaing room etc.) there is a huge risk of accidents. why not make a bit of optimisationa with cable ducts and customized conectors/cables. with good planing huge improvement can be done in this area.
what is the route of audio lines. all devices to onkyo->qsc->beheringer->speakers?



Udit said:


> I have the os in a 512GB Samsung 840 Pro SSD and 20TB in 8 HDD's in pc #1 and the os in a 240GB Mushkin Callisto Deluxe SSD and 20TB in 8 HDD's (clone of the hdd's of pc #1)  in pc #2
> The ac is a standard split.
> The ac is a Panasonic CS-XC24PKY which has a separate power line supplying it the 1500-2100W it needs.


why nas/file server isnt option.
the box you plan to make with all drives, watercooling, 2 pcs etc will be about 25-30kg at least. with size big enough to be uncomfortable to be carried/moved by only one person. this makes cleaning around it hard and timespending.
you have 2 pcs. you can make one of them file server with RIDE 0,1 in separate small case and main pc in other case with only ssds and other essectials.
why you need air in box to be changed 9 times per min. to cool single titan and psu?
if your rosewell collect so much dust in only 2 months with 3x120mm fans, with 30x120mm fans and no air filters after 2 months you will need shovel to clean dust from tarantula box.


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## micropage7 (Feb 12, 2014)

de.das.dude said:


> if u mean desk and by that mean the case, then red like the one in my avatar.


o yeah, sorry i mean the desk. 
straight red and black is nice
but sometimes finding the right color is hard


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## Udit (Feb 12, 2014)

ne6togadno said:


> nvm you explained it later.
> 
> 
> will it be of any facilitation for you and your family if bed lvl chainging is electrical and can be done with one button only. can you pls upload pictures of the lvl locking mechanism and hinges but pls use tpu fileshare.
> ...



Electric bed is not needed as manual has less parts which can become defective also is not difficult to change positions.
The bed is metal.
What can be done to reduce the amount of dust coming in?
Window frames are made of aluminum.
Where is the door with a anti-insect mesh?
There is no balcony in the room.
The cables everyone is used to so if it is changed now there can be accidents.
all devices to onkyo->speakers and beheringer->qsc->subwoofer is the route.
The beheringer and qsc are for the subwoofer only.
I don't like nas/file servers.
I like cooling because I oc.
The rosewill had 6x 140mm and 6x 120mm.
This will have 12x 120mm and 6x 140mm.
Will use filters on the Tarantula Box.
Also will get it carried using 2 people to take it for cleaning once a Month.


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## de.das.dude (Feb 12, 2014)

micropage7 said:


> o yeah, sorry i mean the desk.
> straight red and black is nice
> but sometimes finding the right color is hard


there will be some highlights in Blue LED.


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## ne6togadno (Feb 12, 2014)

Udit said:


> Electric bed is not needed as manual has less parts which can become defective also is not difficult to change positions.


only parts that can become defective in electric bed will be motor, reductor and switch itself. all other parts needed are just for support ant connection and if mounted properly cant become defective



Udit said:


> What can be done to reduce the amount of dust coming in?
> Window frames are made of aluminum.


they are made with profiles like this http://www.wispe[/quote]co.co.za/products/detaildraw/Casement 30.5 third sub category.pdf with rubber sealings at glass edges.




Udit said:


> Where is the door with a anti-insect mesh?
> There is no balcony in the room.


facing the window at right side corner there is a part of the window that has something like anti-insects mesh. its bottom is coverd by white table with box under. my first guess was that this is baclony door. but since there isnt balcony then it should be part of the window that can be opened. if it is openable does it have anti-insect mesh out side. if no what is the distance between window and metal cage outisde. how is window open - top slide, side slide or door type.




Udit said:


> The cables everyone is used to so if it is changed now there can be accidents.
> all devices to onkyo->speakers and beheringer->qsc->subwoofer is the route.
> The beheringer and qsc are for the subwoofer only.


i mean something like this




all power extenders/spliters can be replased with cables inside cable ducts and only power cords of the devices to be connected to plugs.
same can be done with audio&video lines and lan.



Udit said:


> I don't like nas/file servers.


why. you will have it attached to your lan and you will have 0 delay. file server in my work is few rooms away from my office and i have faster access to files on it then to files on my 7200 hdd when at home. you can add insulation inside server case to reduce noise from hdds. you can cool it with only 1-2 fans. you can put it in corner so it doestnt mess in the room. you can use it as stool.



Udit said:


> I like cooling because I oc.
> The rosewill had 6x 140mm and 6x 120mm.
> This will have 12x 120mm and 6x 140mm.
> Will use filters on the Tarantula Box.
> Also will get it carried using 2 people to take it for cleaning once a Month.


only 3 of rosewell fans are unmeshed.
you have aio for cpu (both 360 rads are for cpu only?) oc. you will hit limits of cpu/mb way before you hit termal limits of the rad(s).
in this box you dont need to keep neutral preasure. you have thick walls attached to each other and even if edges of the walls are not cutted straight gaps will be fiilled in for painting. so only intakes in the box will be those you cut. if you add filters on the holes you dont need intake fans. rads fans on push-pull will be enough to drive air inside the box. filters wills prevent dust dumping inside and top glass can easily be sealed. preasure inside case will be irrelevant. just make sure you have fresh air hole agains titan's fan.
less fans=less noise


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## de.das.dude (Feb 12, 2014)

ne6togadno said:


> only parts that can become defective in electric bed will be motor, reductor and switch itself. all other parts needed are just for support ant connection and if mounted properly cant become defective
> 
> 
> they are made with profiles like this http://www.wispeco.co.za/products/detaildraw/Casement%2030.5%20third%20sub%20category.pdf']co.co.za/products/detaildraw/Casement 30.5 third sub category.pdf with rubber sealings at glass edges.
> ...


err can you please take this huge convo to private? this is kinda derailing the work thread.....


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## Udit (Feb 12, 2014)

ne6togadno said:


> only parts that can become defective in electric bed will be motor, reductor and switch itself. all other parts needed are just for support ant connection and if mounted properly cant become defective
> 
> 
> they are made with profiles like this http://www.wispeco.co.za/products/detaildraw/Casement%2030.5%20third%20sub%20category.pdf with rubber sealings at glass edges.
> ...



Still 3 parts extra with a chance of getting defects.
They are with rubber sealing at the edges of the glass.
That mesh is the old rosewill side panel.
Windows side slide.
I just find open cables more convenient.
Just find the idea of a nas too tedious.
I have a 360mm aio for the pc #1 cpu and a 120mm aio for the pc #2.
I will try your airflow way someday too.


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## de.das.dude (Feb 13, 2014)

changes in design on their way.





left side will hold 480 rad.
front component alignments have been changed. 

will be able to finish the whole design after getting the second donor pc.


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## de.das.dude (Feb 20, 2014)

no updates here, but been busy at work nevertheless.

went and brought second donor case. a Lian Li




after a trip to the chop shop





salvaging the power buttons wont be easy. they were two part to remove from the upper bezel, and the buttons itself pressed on these buttons on the pcb which is a fixed distance away. unnecessary complications 




here is the motherboard and PCIe plate extracted.



used a heavy duty drill. was pretty easy to dismantle this case. time spent 3hours.



the rosy mobo plate isnt as simple as this. there are two extra extensions on the top and bottom of the plate where the other side panel would slide and lock into. these were unnecessary and also used up more space. I had already accounted cutting this in my design to make the mobo sit good at 60mm from the top.
and so on with the chopping.



the circular magnet helps collecting the iron dust and reduces the dirt in my room drastically.





Cut and filed:



Final bit of filing will be done when putting it into the case.

total cutting time 2hrs.
Hopefully i can start the woodwork tomorrow. probably will start with the left side.

total time : 11hours


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## de.das.dude (Feb 21, 2014)

started woodwork.

the setup.



the top left piece of aluminium channel is clamped too the left . the wood is there to prevent the long channel from slipping under the smaller channel. i would be forcing left on the channel as i saw.

cut out the piece for the left side.





not bad for the first time using a jigsaw eh? used a speed wood blade for this.




652x326


1.5hrs

total time 12.5hours


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## ne6togadno (Feb 21, 2014)

use highest speed of the jigsaw motor and move it slower over wood


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## de.das.dude (Feb 21, 2014)

ne6togadno said:


> use highest speed of the jigsaw motor and move it slower over wood


i know.
pendulum action is at medium level. this makes it faster without much chipping.

showing side is on the underside of the cut as that side will not get chipped. jig saw cuts in the upward stroke.


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## ne6togadno (Feb 21, 2014)

de.das.dude said:


> i know.
> pendulum action is at medium level. this makes it faster without much chipping.
> 
> showing side is on the underside of the cut as that side will not get chipped. jig saw cuts in the upward stroke.



showing side doesnt matter atm. you will have to sand and fill it before painting anyway.
edge of the plate is ruff. if you use fastest saw movement and slide jigsaw slowly you will get more clear cut and you will have to sand less


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## de.das.dude (Feb 21, 2014)

ne6togadno said:


> showing side doesnt matter atm. you will have to sand and fill it before painting anyway.
> edge of the plate is ruff. if you use fastest saw movement and slide jigsaw slowly you will get more clear cut and you will have to sand less



no. showing side matters to an utmost extent.

the underside is not rough. its smooth. no chipping there because the saw cuts on upward stroke. there wont be any filling. wood grain texture will be maintained. just light matte spray over the whole thing. i dont need to file either because i am cutting it to exact dimensions.


and yes i lock it in the fastest speed and move slowly enough to cause no chipping.


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## de.das.dude (Feb 21, 2014)

Fan holes drawn onto the side.




testing with fans




rough cut with the jigsaw. i can now do direct cuts with it 




after a bit of filing






3 hours.
total 15.5 hours.


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## t_ski (Feb 22, 2014)

de.das.dude said:


> no. showing side matters to an utmost extent.
> 
> the underside is not rough. its smooth. no chipping there because the saw cuts on upward stroke. there wont be any filling. wood grain texture will be maintained. just light matte spray over the whole thing. i dont need to file either because i am cutting it to exact dimensions.
> 
> ...


What ne6togadno is tryin to tell you is that all experienced woodworkers leave the line when they cut, then use a joiner, plane or sander to remove the rest of the material.  If you are happy with your results, that's fine, as you are the customer.  Other people just have a different expectation.


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## de.das.dude (Feb 22, 2014)

t_ski said:


> What ne6togadno is tryin to tell you is that all experienced woodworkers leave the line when they cut, then use a joiner, plane or sander to remove the rest of the material.  If you are happy with your results, that's fine, as you are the customer.  Other people just have a different expectation.



yes i got that . see i am only doing the long rough cuts of edges that wont be visible with a rough blade. even with a rough blade the underside does not chip. black and decker gave a very detailed guide with the jigsaw and little things like these were mentioned properly.
in any case "some" bit of sanding will be required to fit in the end :3

for the other detailed edges like the fan hole as you can see. i am using a finer blade with much higher tpi and then sanding it down anyway. 

one of the problems with sanding a hick piece of wood is since i dont have a vice at home, i cant get the edges perpendicular quickly. a lot of slow sanding is required since i got to do it by eye. jigsaw eliminates this since the blade is always at 90 degrees.

the inside corners of the case wont be visible so little bit of chipping isnt visible.

also i have found an ingenious way to prevent chipping. draw a fine cut alone the line with a sharpie  this already cuts the fine top layer and prevents chipping.


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## de.das.dude (Feb 22, 2014)

as said.... with practice and making a fine cut along the line with a sharpie, and a higher tpi blade its possible to eliminate chipping even on the top surface.

this is right after the cut.



i have cut really close to the line. Only the starting bit at the drill hole is a bit off. I will be finishing that off later as well with the jigsaw itself, but a different blade.

The hole cut and finished off with jigsaw. Nothing else has been done to it. Will be using sandpaper to smooth it later.




All holes cut and about to be finished with a different blade




Finished with the jigsaw and filed/sanded down:



this is the view from the outside.

2.5hours.

total 18 hours.


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## blobster21 (Feb 27, 2014)

subscribed. keep us posted !


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## de.das.dude (Feb 28, 2014)

moar work!

as always. click the

measured around some limits and other things to check how much i need to leave for the wires. 30mm should be plenty since there is loads of place to route around.
then had to decide if the io sheild and pcie part would go from the inside or the outside. had to be inside since  outside would make putting in pcie cards very complicated.

drew the out and drilled starting holes for cutting with the jigsaw.





rough cut:-



the left bottom hole is for aligning the io and PCIe bracket part of the motherboard to the motherboard tray. this needed to be done since the i/o part would be fixed permanently onto the left face where as the motherboard tray will be removable by velcro/screws.


checking fits. this face is on the inside of the chassis.





checking fit from the other side






now that it all fits. time to finish/smooth it off with a bit of sanding. this face is the outside face





time to mark out the fan holes for the final time. i got a recent drill bit kit of varying diameters. this is how i used a 4mm one to mark out the holes.






checking it with the rad in the position it will be mounted.





holes were final so time to counter sink them a bit.



this needed to be done since there will be a mesh over the intake fans. also looks cleaner.



finally:-





one side done 5 more to go!

time taken for this 1.5hours. total time:- 19.5hours


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## de.das.dude (Mar 1, 2014)

what up? time for a big-little update.

Started working on the HDD cage assembly. if you refer to the design, these are stacks of 3 lian li 3x 5.25" -> 4x 3.5" drive +2 ssd +fan converters.
First off, disassembled the cages as it would not take the force of working because of the non hardened aluminium used in the essential bits.
then lay them flat and started riveting them together in lap riveted joints. i used some 1mm aluminium that i hand brushed for the overlapping pieces.

three done



did this to both sides.



after finishinf:-






closer view of the delicious brushed aluminium finish.











the ends will be capped off with square aluminium pieces, salvaged from the lian li side panel(s). Then the easy mount mechanism from the rose will will be split and applied to four corners of this. This will allow the 3 bays to come off the cabinet together.

time spent : 4hours.
not been able to exert fully today. food poisoning :s

total time spent 23.5hours.


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## Vario (Mar 1, 2014)

You have a lot of skill!


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## de.das.dude (Mar 21, 2014)

huge update on its way.....


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## de.das.dude (Mar 21, 2014)

I know its been a long time since the last update (20days :O) but been busy with college, exams, job interviews. never the less.. the job was going on in the bg, just didnt have enough time to update.

Some changes were made to the plans for the HDD cages. the lian li cages were of bad soft aluminium. so they had no strength to even hold their own weight. Initial plan was to cut out from the lian li side panels and stick them on but the aluminium is very thin soft there, so i cut out a piece from the rosewill. 2mm solid steel. this was gonna add too much weight so this idea was scrapped too. Finally i decided to fashion two braces out of 1mm thick hard good aluminium.

Because of the busy schedule i forgot to take pics of the brace forming process. In short: 1st i cut 4 pieces to exact size 20mm by 140mm. then straightened out the hard bends etc out of them all, bunched them together and clamped them b/w two pieces of scrap wood from the project. 2nd A bit of the aluminium was handing out, which i used to heat it on a cooking gas burner and let it cool slowly within the wood. This would soften the aluminium and the force from the clamps will make them dead straight. 3rd i checked their sizes a final time and filed down the rough edges. 4th and final i sanded and gave them that brushed finish. the last step put some surface hardness back. This aluminium hardens itself automatically at ambient temp.


I prepped the hdd cage sides by cleaning them with alcohol. With the help of two clamps and rubber based glue, i glued and clamped one of the braces on to the hdd cage as below. Used my fully functioning hdd to get the correct distance. As usual clicking images will show larger resolution.





After the glue has cured over 8 hours, i take the clamps off, mark drill locations and drill and rivet them. The rivets are offset to a side for allowing the easy mount mechanism which will come later after the aluminium has plenty of time to harden.
Here you can see one setting next to a completed one i made earlier





close up:





weight test. each clamp weighs 1kg.





After that i went and bought more wood for the top side. Then cut the top side to size, and cut out its acrylic window. The wood from this was enough to make the right side which i will work on now.

Template for fan holes 120mm.





Marking out the holes on the right face




Marked out the second mobo i/o position and scoured along lines with a cutter to reduce splintering at the edge.





Started drill holes for the jigsaw blades with a hand drill thats around 20years older than me. yes thats right.



HDF wood was too hard to finish drilling large holes with hand.


Holes finished off with a power drill





Started branch out cuts with a curve cutting blade for the jigsaw. This will help accomodate the larger final finishing bade





This special blade is a finishing blade. Notice the filing marks on the sides as well as the high TPI. I will use this to cut all the holes as well as do the final finishing.



This is one badass blade.


Fan holes cut out with jigsaw, only the bits at the corners holding the cut outs in place. I will leave them in place for now as they will add structural stability for when i will cut the long mobo tray hole. Without them the vibrations from the jigsaw would damage the wood fibre or even jam up the blade and possibly end in a bloody mess.





All holes cut. Time to pop the scrap out gently, and by that i mean with a hammer.





After the cutouts have been removed



the starting points  for the cuts need finishing along with some tid-bits here and there.


After finishing off with the jigsaw:-



Might look ok. but this is the inside face which will be covered by fans rads and not visible.... So hows the outer face lets see....



looks decent. But till i did some final hand finishing with a sanding block and a file on some patches here and there specially around the corners.

Drilling out fan holes and final right side after completion.








Thats all for now. Total working time:- 41Hours.


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## de.das.dude (Apr 4, 2014)

~click images for higher resolution~
Long time no see... time for a weekly update.

first i had to adapt the hdd easymount mechanism onto the drive racks for this one. i decided to use 2 easy mount for each rack, one sliding mechanism at each corner.

First i had to cut the easy mounts to size







Then finishing










Now since this build is a dual pc build, i had to make space for another PSU which meant that the larger motherboard needed to be trimmed.
these are after triming. still has mounting holes for hptx










then came to attaching these to the hdd racks
i used double sided tape on the working edge and rubber based glue on the other edge to secure it in place before i drilled and riveted them into place. the rubber adhesive and the double sided foam tape will help absorb vibrations as well.







time to cut the rails from the hdd bay to size:-







rough idea of how the sliders will work. here the channels from the drive bay are placed over the slider on the corners






the rack after riveting has been completed



you can see the foam







after measuring the distance of the sliders on the racks, its time to mount the other half of the mechanism onto the vertical holds that will be a part of the base of the cabinet





at this point i cut my index finger severly by trying to rambo off a sharp burr. bleeding... but the show must go on.




test fitting and doing the measurements for the hdd rack fans whose holes will be projected onto the front of the front of the cabinet



looks good enough







time to do it the other way



nice
unfortunately that will be the end for now. cant press triggers with the gash... so i will finish up the calculations for the front fans and hope to complete the construction part by this weekend.

thanks for reading


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## de.das.dude (Apr 13, 2014)

long time no see, yet again!
as usual click images for bigger resolution


since some of the rails i used were new and unused in the rosewill cabinet it still was tight and the paint was thick, so i had to grind down the paint to make it smoother and easier to slide in and out









Got a spray paint can! finally got some good stuff, online. Its written as acrylic lacquer; goes on wood, metal and plastic like. No primer required.. and smells like primer in general.
Time to paint the lian li mobo tray. This is my first go at any sort of painting

before: dirty, and oily residue.




cleaned and scruffed. wiped with acetone.
first coat tack coat. this wasnt let to dry. as i wanted the rosewill like texture and thus this is a tack coat




second coat




third coat



it was really hot that day, so it was taking less than 2 mins to completely dry. lol.

final 4th and then drizzle coat.



success!



Rear, i had already traced the design onto the wood stock and started, but i had to made some changes because of dual psu.
Design completed and cutting started




rough cutting complete




Rear complete




so much wood shavings






Now client wanted a matte finish on the wood, with that old vintage speaker look with wood grains visible. Since dyes are not available here, and this is plywood i tried something different.

First i smoothed the wood with 80grit sandpaper
then cleaned and sprayed the wood with the same rattle can paint as before
then finally to give it matte look, used a scoth brite pad to rough it up before it dried completely.



this works 


The final face: The front.
This is very essential and vital as this is where everything lines up, drive bays and what not.

design drawing complete




test fitting with components




fan holes first drilled by hand with a smaller 2mm bit




then completed with the power drill




drilling all the jigsaw blade holes




starting cuts with curved blade




rough cut complete




Complete




again.. lots of shavings!!




total time till now = 73.5hours!
thanks for reading


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## blobster21 (Apr 13, 2014)

Crazy amount of time spent for this build. 
An overall very well documented project, with a lot of ingeniosity, a lot of shavings  and few drops of blood...

How comes this is your first time using paint in a modding project ?


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## de.das.dude (Apr 13, 2014)

never required to use paint before. for the bare metal edges i used a q tip/cotton swab and normal enamel paint


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## de.das.dude (Jun 2, 2014)

Yes i am very much alive! And so is this project!
Sorry i was away because of my final semester in engineering... Now thats been done with, LETS GO GO GO!


First let me update till what i have already accomplished during the little gaps i could find b/w studying.


*Painting the Panels Black*
First smoothing out all the rough grains on the plywood with sandpaper



looks good
Then cleaned it with non oil base stuff.

Painted and drying







I have notice that, as i paint more and more, i need less and less paint to cover a a definite area  experience FTW


This is when i hit exam time. so packing them up all sealed for storage. Note that i did not matte out some of the panels. That will have to wait unfortunately.







Midway i had some time so i painted the aluminium cages too



they had to be taken apart.
total cost 1 can only 

Fixtures collection 



M4 x50 50pcs
angles - 25pcs
imported screws.. 24 pcs
and some assorted tempered screws for other bits.

Total 84hours.


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## de.das.dude (Jun 3, 2014)

Woke up at 8am to start working.

Hello old friend, we meet again...




looks to be in the order i left it.




*Matte finished the rest of the panels.*



this is front panel.

*Cutting The Perforated Sheet*



this will cover the front and sides... and a mystery piece for later.
these will be painted red.

scrap?



I'll see about that...

thats a lot of cutting of 1mm stainless steel. NOT good for the hands.



wow palm   such sore much pain


Total 86.5hours.

90hours was my estimate :S


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## micropage7 (Jun 3, 2014)

you need glove, at least it wont tear your skin anymore


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## de.das.dude (Jun 3, 2014)

i cut my hands twice only. so its cool


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## de.das.dude (Jun 5, 2014)

Hi there.

*Integrating the I/O with the front and side
*

I would be using the lian li's I/O on the front.
marked out




I got some snips recently. so ill be using them to cut the piece i want.
First straightening out the edge.



that thing is Bloody hard.

snip snip




cut and straightened with the power of heat




cleaned up and scruffed ready for paint.




Drew out the part to cut off.





looks cool?






onto the side
This will be done using the rosewill







marked a bunch of positions and cut one that suited best.








I have to add these USB 3.0 to the front one (lian li only has 2.0)




making provisions for that(wood bits are the parts where they will screw to)




Done!




Time to paint it !







Glued the Rosy one to the side.


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## Bo$$ (Jun 6, 2014)

should have cut all the holes then painted. those light areas look quite bad... otherwise nice work!


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## de.das.dude (Jun 6, 2014)

Bo$$ said:


> should have cut all the holes then painted. those light areas look quite bad... otherwise nice work!


i did paint after cutting if you follow.  you dont think i pay so much attention to other details that i would leave something as "goping" as that out?

those holes will be coloured differently with brush. hence i am waiting till the end as brush paint takes a long time to dry. If i colour them after assembly i dont need to have them all over my house drying in secluded places 

they will be red as in the renderings of the original design.


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## Bo$$ (Jun 6, 2014)

de.das.dude said:


> i did paint after cutting if you follow.  you dont think i pay so much attention to other details that i would leave something as "goping" as that out?
> 
> those holes will be coloured differently with brush. hence i am waiting till the end as brush paint takes a long time to dry. If i colour them after assembly i dont need to have them all over my house drying in secluded places
> 
> they will be red as in the renderings of the original design.



looks like not all the photos are loading when using my phone haha, looks neat


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## de.das.dude (Jun 7, 2014)

Bo$$ said:


> looks like not all the photos are loading when using my phone haha, looks neat


yeah most phone browsers are appalling.


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## de.das.dude (Jun 7, 2014)

*Bending The Perforated Sheet.*

Material - Stainless Steel
Mesh - 1.6mm holes

The reason why i bent it is two fold.
1. its springy and wouldnt straighten out completely even after i used a rolling pin on a rubbery surface. Hemming would take care of this.
2. the edges are sharp. REALLY SHARP. cut my finger twice. and i have really thick deadskin.

Marking and cutting it to size




Dont have an anvil at home, so makeshift anvil from railings.





hammering it down first along the line, then completing the bend. Then Turned it over




Hemming completed. Hemmingway be proud?




3 more sides and done (i didnt use the larger hammer since it was too destructive, also i taped the hammer since i didnt want it to risk falling and hitting the car below)




*Assembly*
Here's my dad lending me a helping hand. This kinda skills were passed down to me genetically.
Each side is secured with angles, as well as screws that are drilled and screws through into them from the rear and bottom. Plank placement was such that no visible screws would be there on the front, sides. The edges were Glued with wood glue. The paint was scraped off first ofcourse.




Turned upside down and secured from the bottom.








*Some electrical itty bitty bits*
Time to clean these switches




Texture matched.




Taking them apart to reverse, since the mounting on the front has been rotated.



Didnt work out. its irreversible (clips dont match up)

So i had to file another guiding notch into the aluminium with a small file. It fits




looking pretty. wiring to go




Wiring loom added.




all done (note: painted the inner flip cover to match the outsides)





Final pics of the day. Sorry for the dust, had a bit of a storm.






yes i added a little holder to the side wire loom since the wires are soldered directly without hot glue reinforcements. this will prevent the solders from breaking if the wire is tugged.

Total 100 Hours spent. going good for time i think.


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## de.das.dude (Jun 10, 2014)

*Finishing off the power buttons*
If you had noticed earlier, i haven't wired up the power and reset buttons on the front. The lian li uses an unnecessarily complicated system wherein the mechanical buttons go push down on a separately mounted small momentary buttons on a PCB. Since its separately mounted, I it had to be maneuvered in 3D to get it to the position i wanted. This is the end result.



This will be glued onto the front over the switches. The wood bit itself is expoxied onto the metal bit and set under pressure. The wood will be glued to the wood with normal white wood glue.


*Fitting the motherboard*

Had to machine the tip of the rosewill tray a bit to fit over the angle.




Then attatched the PCIe Card and rear I/O for both the trays. (lian li not pictured here)




*Mounting the motherboard.*
First i glued together two wood pieces that came out of the fan slots. Then cut them into 30x30 cubes. They are of 24mm height since the wood itself is 12mm thick.

The clearance for the motherboards underneath is 27mm. The rest is made up with 3mm nylon washers which double up as vibration absorbers.




Similar tactics used for the power supply supports as well


Then i used high gloss wood enamel paint in 4 layers painted with a number 6 brush to color the exposed edges.
Here is an overall view




Close up of rosewill (not yet screws on with washers, just standing on the uprights).




Close up of lian li (not yet screws on with washers, just standing on the uprights).




Closeup of power supply mounts.





View from the outside. The other holes you see are for mounting the motherboard tray rigidly to the pcie bracket part. Its removeable for wire management.





*The Front*
Dry fitted the front (without glue) for taking measurements for the HDD bays. i will glue the front after completion as removing the front gives me good ease of access.




Painted the mesh for the front and sides.




total 112hrs of physical labour.


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## de.das.dude (Jun 30, 2014)

The mesh
It came out nicely after painting.




Putting the top lid on to check fitting and also to take measurements and cut out the acrylic.




Time to assemble the 3.5" bays.
Positioned the right upright after leaving enough room for tools to go into the gap for tightening up the front face,







It is secured at the top as well with the help of a wood spacer. The wood spacer is permanently joined to the right side, a screw will tie the hdd support to this spacer as well as the right side.
Spacer glued under pressure.







Finishing up the front 5.25" drive bay, by attatching a spacer and nylon washers.






this would require more tweaking later.

Note: the spacers were glued. However, the cage is screwed onto the front face with nylon washers as a vibration dampener.




To end for now here is a shot of the Front power button that has now set hard





More posts coming in 30minutes.


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## de.das.dude (Jun 30, 2014)

Dry fitted the top again to check clearance. The acrylic has also been cut to size. But not shape




Acrylic mounting holes drilled. First with a small bit then with a larger bit according to the bolt size. This prevents cracking.







Time for a hard bit. Mounting the motherboard with screws.
First there are locator screws on the left that bind the PCIe/IO part with the tray itself. The nuts are glued to this side, the particular size of the nut keeps it from rotating when the bolt is screws on from the outside. This is just to make things easier during assembly.




First the mouting holes were drilled onto the Rosewill Tray then they were transferred to the wood and drilled.



Too much power




Completed and motherboard screwed into place.




Ditto with the lian li




Note: these were screwed on with nylon washers again. to absorb vibrations.


After this no more proper access required so i attatched the front



Note that there is a bracer for the HDD bay. This just ties the left stand with the more secure right one and stops the top from spreading out after hdds have been loaded.
The rest of the edges have been painted as well.

Another view. The paint still needs to be touched up and given a second coat in some places.




The precision i am proud of  Just enough space to reach and tighten everything up.




Cant forget to paint the spacer.




More coming in next 30 minutes


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## de.das.dude (Jun 30, 2014)

The front IO had to be matched to the rest and so i roughed it up first



Then polished it




Used four 3" steel hinges to attatch the lid from the back. Also used two 6" hooks to hold the lid up once its up. These hooks rest on small hookes suspended from the top of the lid to stop them from interfering with inside wires once the lid is shut.
Here i am screwing the hook in




It was 40C with 90% humidity. So excuse the nudity.


Aforementioned hook retention mechanism



keeps it away from the fans. You may notice that the paint has been touched up and completed.

Two heavy duty magnetic catchers were also used to keep the lid stuck to the case.




Up on its own strength.



The camera angle and position of the desk makes it look crooked.
The height of lift was calculated as per my height since i would be the one working on it pretty much.

Uniform 1mm gap to the front. The front had a lot of fans per area so i kept this gap to keep the lid from rattling




Adjusting the magnetic catcher height. Right side is OK, but left one needs to go down a bit.




Thats all for now.

More coming soon!


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## de.das.dude (Jun 30, 2014)

All ready to be shipped over to his place for the completion.






















final picture with it in my room.


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## de.das.dude (Jun 30, 2014)

After that i had to go over to his place a LOT of times to finish up.

And the part we have all been waiting for.
(sorry i am a terrible photographer)


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## de.das.dude (Jun 30, 2014)

There were budget restrictions hence there is no 2nd PC in it at the moment.
Sleeving and extenders will be added in the future! Also the stray cables for the other PC will get tidied up then as well!

Thanks for reading.


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## VSG (Jul 3, 2014)

Nice build man, glad to see a fellow Indian making the most of it. Looks great!


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## micropage7 (Jul 3, 2014)

so far it looks run well, just take your time and it will be done


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## de.das.dude (Jul 3, 2014)

Owner will have it sleeved  Really needs some red and black sleeving


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## blobster21 (Jul 13, 2014)

Very impressive build, I can't wait to see it again after a bit of cable management is done.

Not meant to be disrepectfull, but be sure to vacuum thoroughly to achieve your best photos ! ( a canister of compressed air might be handy too)


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## de.das.dude (Jul 14, 2014)

sleeving is supposed to arrive mid august.


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## michael (Sep 10, 2014)

Great effort taken man. I applaud. Did you make it to for some kind of customer or for  your own use? Excuse me I just saw your pics.


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## de.das.dude (Sep 10, 2014)

michael said:


> Great effort taken man. I applaud. Did you make it to for some kind of customer or for  your own use? Excuse me I just saw your pics.


....
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
<- look here



i do take clients only. i dont have the money to mod for myself.


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## Mindweaver (Sep 10, 2014)

Nice job DDD!


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## michael (Oct 5, 2014)

Hi de das dude,

I have seen you this mod.

First of all I give you 100/100 for the efforts you have taken on this build.

now let me talk about some flaws in your mod and your work methods.

As you said in your last posts that you charge people some amount for making these mods .
I just don't know how people accept your such mods, though it may look customized they are not at all perfect as per length and angles and sizes. have look at below parts of your mod:-












the above part really does not look good though it may look good in dark with those leds on.

Ok now look at below pic, your machine will never suit a posh room in flat where everything is Clean and Neat and properly placed with walls colored with delux colors. if you think only about dark rooms with lights off,it definitely will look eye catchy but what about day time? it does not look good with tube lights on, your this mod may suit in some dhabba or place where all things are woody type. some retro type environment you know.




I think your clients have no choice or perhaps they are unaware of other ready made case available in markets which are equally or more good looking than your all mods, have look at below cases which are also easily available in market.


 

  

honestly you are not perfect in your mod, but yes i applaud for your efforts, may be you will work well in group of pro modders

This how a mod case should actually look like


 


 

even I have modded my case may be I have not taken that much of effort which you took to make yours
but in my case I have:-
1. Remote control to  Power ON/OFF my machine.
2. A front switch bay with 5 military switch button with yellow caps on to manually power ON/OFF my 10 3 color  12 modes 120mm fans.
3.Separate button to power ON/OFF the Red LED bar placed at bottom.
4. A back panel button to power ON/OFF Green LED strips which spread inside my case.
5.Two programmable 120 mm fans placed right above cooler which also has separate power ON/OFF button.
6.A key connected to to Power ON/OFF switch to physically lock the machine.
7. 2 wifi antennas which are places above the case to decorate my case
8.The case has been raised by 4 foot bars to look taller (The LAn BOy Air)

and you know my case looks good in all rooms and environment no matter how closely you look at it, you will still not find any scratches on it.

I am not modder like you, but when I took interest in it, I made it in such way that many liked it and got shocked to see such machine.

Rather than making it all by yourself you could have even thought of getting it done from some proper carpenter ,nothing wrong in that those idea will still be yours.

Thanks, best of luck mate.


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## blobster21 (Oct 5, 2014)

Hi Michael, you gave an honnest opinion about de.das.dude work, but let me ask you this question : 
Do you have any custom made PC cases on your account ? Did you ever try to modify a PC with the tools he used ?


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## de.das.dude (Oct 5, 2014)

so you are bringing out pictures from the middle of the mod to criticize me?

i keep changing and redoing things over and over again till i achieve perfection. hence that IO is sanded and ready for painting again. actually i think it was after i personally added the USB 3.0 after i mounted the i/o onto the case already, an error which happened because the client didnt give the required input at the correct time. Also i didnt like how the paint went on(i.e. matt finish) so i redid it again and gave it a polished finish after painting and hand polishing.


also again... i only take clients. and cleaning the case is not my problem. so if dust makes it dirty... its not my problem since its not in my workshop anymore.



both of the pictures you have taken are before it was actually completed.
in the second picture... i had just gone over and cut some bits off to make the xigmatek fit since it was a bit bent out of shape for some reason(shipping internationally maybe?)
it was painted again after wards on a later day when i carried painting tools over. if you look carefully you will also notice that the previous thing you said... i.e the bad paint on the I/O is already gone.



i know this is just a retaliation for me calling you a retard for not learning how to google. and being a retard in general..

and my client is very well knowledge able... much more than you ofcourse.
if you had even read the thread you would have known the cases that i sacrificed to make this custom build. one was a rosewill black hawk ultra and another was a lian li something i dont remember the name.

it seems to me that you really dont get what custom hand crafted building means.


also i only take full payment after delivering my work.
i think my clients/friends will back me up.


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## michael (Oct 5, 2014)

blobster21 said:


> Hi Michael, you gave an honnest opinion about de.das.dude work, but let me ask you this question :
> Do you have any custom made PC cases on your account ? Did you ever try to modify a PC with the tools he used ?


yes I have. But I did not use the tools he is using, so what? The final case should look good no matter what sophisticated tools you use.
He is making mod for client and not for himself so I commented on those as per showing the mod machine  to his clients concerned.

Thanks.


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## de.das.dude (Oct 5, 2014)

blobster21 said:


> Hi Michael, you gave an honnest opinion about de.das.dude work, but let me ask you this question :
> Do you have any custom made PC cases on your account ? Did you ever try to modify a PC with the tools he used ?


its clear he hasnt .. why else would he pick out pictures from the middle of the build.... doesnt really under stand the basic concept in modding

"things must get worse before they can get better"


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## de.das.dude (Oct 5, 2014)

michael said:


> yes I have. But I did not use the tools he is using, so what? The final case should look good no matter what sophisticated tools you use.
> He is making mod for client and not for himself so I commented on those as per showing the mod machine  to his clients concerned.
> 
> Thanks.


too bad you arent really using the final product to criticize.  are you?
infact i dont recall saying this project has completed, the last thing i can see is that the sleeving was due.


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## michael (Oct 5, 2014)

de.das.dude said:


> so you are bringing out pictures from the middle of the mod to criticize me?
> 
> i keep changing and redoing things over and over again till i achieve perfection. hence that IO is sanded and ready for painting again. actually i think it was after i personally added the USB 3.0 after i mounted the i/o onto the case already, an error which happened because the client didnt give the required input at the correct time. Also i didnt like how the paint went on(i.e. matt finish) so i redid it again and gave it a polished finish after painting and hand polishing.
> 
> ...


You have not posted the final case pics so how can one know it man? and you know I wanted to give this comments long way back but did not get time for it. but look still you are making personnel comments on me when I am just talking about your work methods and cases? what wrong with you my dear Indian friend?

If my points were not regarding your case you would not have answered me much in detail, love your critics , listen to what they say as well, don't just party with your likers and well wishers. and please don't make personnel comments. did you miss that I already gave on 100 on 100 for efforts you took, was those less?

Thanks de das dude.


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## Udit (Oct 5, 2014)

He has made the whole case using hard work and effort for the first time in life but instead of appreciating everything you criticize it Michael.
So what if it is not perfect in few very hard to find places.
Lets see you make a case from scratch for the first time and be perfect at everything.
de.das.dude's customer Udit.


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## de.das.dude (Oct 5, 2014)

michael said:


> You have not posted the final case pics so how can one know it man? and you know I wanted to give this comments long way back but did not get time for it. but look still you are making personnel comments on me when I am just talking about your work methods and cases? what wrong with you my dear Indian friend?
> 
> If my points were not regarding your case you would not have answered me much in detail, love your critics , listen to what they say as well, don't just party with your likers and well wishers. and please don't make personnel comments. did you miss that I already gave on 100 on 100 for efforts you took, was those less?
> 
> Thanks de das dude.



ahh see you dont know how to read so you dont know.... this isnt complete yet.

next time, not just this thread... try to read what others are posting.



and only you would consider yourself a critic. no one else.


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## ST.o.CH (Oct 5, 2014)

michael said:


> Hi de das dude,
> 
> I have seen you this mod.
> 
> ...


It's bad to see that there are people who want to feel good just because in their minds they think others are worse than they are.
It is certain and known that the Lamborghini before producing the Aventador had to, with less sophisticated tools, build agricultural tractors.
Keep on the good work DDD.


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## michael (Oct 22, 2014)

de.das.dude said:


> ahh see you dont know how to read so you dont know.... this isnt complete yet.
> 
> next time, not just this thread... try to read what others are posting.
> 
> ...



Sorry mate, if you feel bad. *Please Continue your work.* May be I was too harsh, but I am sure next time when you will take file or cutter to shape  something, you will remember my words and put some more attention to make sure that you do it properly without any scratch or uneven shapes.

But please think twice before using bad or harsh words for others, look back in that laptop thread no one else except you (person from my own country) used uncalled words for me. I felt really bad that time. 

Cheers.


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