# New build for moderate and multiple different uses, need advise please



## tigasport (May 29, 2014)

Starting research for a build to be built in the next 2 weeks or so. I plan to build around the processor. I will be using the CPU for tons of research which leads to 20+ taps open (Mozilla and Explorer open at same time), my small business (1-2 users) lots of emails etc, watching videos online and blu-rays, and I want to have decent sound abilities for music. This CPU will run 12+ hours everyday. I would like it to last at least 4 years with out breaking down. Price is not really a problem since I firmly believe in "buy once and only cry once". However, I would like to keep it under 3K. 


Here are the must have's: 

Windows 7 Pro - a must since I hear windows 8 sucks. 
Here are the considerations: 

1150 socket (i7-4790 haswell with a Z87 mother board),  or a 2011 (i7-4930K Ivy bridge) . Really hard choice but I'm leaning towards the i7-4790 Haswell. 

Motherboard Z87 if I use the i7-4790 Haswell. For the 2011 i7-4930 I have no idea yet. 

Hard drive- looking to put the operating system on a 500g ssd and have a second 2tb WD black drive 7200rpm for storage. Is that a good idea? If using a SSD for the operating system, who makes a great 500g SSD?

Video card???
Sound card or just use motherboard??? Currently I have a 6 speaker Logitech sound system.

CPU case???
Processor fan???
Ram-DDR3 with 16+ gigs. I need to figure out the fastest and best for which processor and motherboard are used 1600, 1333, etc???
Blu-ray player and software???
Power supply 800w to 1000w. Any ideas on a good company? 
Multi card reader for camera memory cards etc. 
Any educated help would be most appreciated. I built a really nice system 4 years ago, but I'm rusty as to new items now available.


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## LaytonJnr (May 29, 2014)

Hello,

From what you've said about the usage, I don't see the need to spend so much money. I don't think you will need that much RAM unless you're doing something like video editing, and you definitely don't need such a high wattage power supply, seeing as you haven't mentioned gaming, and hence wouldn't need a high-end graphics card that consumes that much power. In my opinion, you should be fine with a non-K Core i5 processor with a B85/H87 motherboard, 8GB of RAM, and a 550W max 80+ Gold PSU.

Unless you're planning on doing any gaming, video or photo editing, 3D modelling, or other intensive programs, then perhaps you're going a bit too far spec wise. Feel free to tell us if you do plan on using it for more intensive tasks, and I'll modify my advice.

Layton


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## RCoon (May 29, 2014)

+1 to Layton here, your build is obscene. For "20 tabs in a web browser", emails and some Blurays, you could happily run on an i3, but you know, if money is a non issue, you can jump on a non K i5 like Layton said. You don't even need a Z87 motherboard for it, as you have no intention of overclocking, so you could go with a B85 or a H81/87 for half the price. 8GB of RAM (CAS9 @ 1600mhz) is certainly future proof for your tasks, and 550W is overkill, but in the event you decide to add a GPU, it might come in handy.
If you have *no intention* to game, get a gold 350-400W PSU from a good OEM (enermax, Sea Sonic, Corsair, FSP, SuperFlower, XFX).
Samsung EVO 500GB should suit your needs, as for HDD's buy from whoever you want, I don't find it makes too much difference unless you're narrowminded.


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## ne6togadno (May 29, 2014)

do u have monitor and what res it is


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## BarbaricSoul (May 29, 2014)

LaytonJnr said:


> Hello,
> 
> From what you've said about the usage, I don't see the need to spend so much money. I don't think you will need that much RAM unless you're doing something like video editing, and you definitely don't need such a high wattage power supply, seeing as you haven't mentioned gaming, and hence wouldn't need a high-end graphics card that consumes that much power. In my opinion, you should be fine with a non-K Core i5 processor with a Z87 motherboard, 8GB of RAM, and a 550W max 80+ Gold PSU.
> 
> ...




I agree with almost everything Layton said, except for the motherboard. If you don't plan to OC, you don't need to spend the money on a Z87 motherboard. A lower priced B85 chipset chipset motherboard will do what you are asking. A sample build that I would suggest for you consists of-

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116898
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131986
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820313345
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147249
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822178338
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151097
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129042
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832416804

Just under $1100, and I can shave the price some more ( do you really need a 500gb SSD?)


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## LaytonJnr (May 29, 2014)

BarbaricSoul said:


> I agree with almost everything Layton said, except for the motherboard.



I edited my post as you were writing, as I'd already noticed my mistake 

A suggested build for the OP: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/TcsDJx

Layton


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## ne6togadno (May 29, 2014)

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/wVzQGX
following most of your specs.

what i would buy for task you described
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/QwQrmG
+ http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...cm_re=synology_ds214se-_-22-108-163-_-Product for storage


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## BigBoi (May 30, 2014)

Yeah definitely get the H87 as opposed to the Z97. 
It has the "small business advantage" feature. Lol


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## eidairaman1 (May 30, 2014)

Shoot a 4350 on a 970A with 8 gb of 1600 ram or a A85 With Richland or Kaveri apu would work for this.


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## tigasport (May 30, 2014)

LaytonJnr said:


> I edited my post as you were writing, as I'd already noticed my mistake
> 
> A suggested build for the OP: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/TcsDJx
> 
> Layton





LaytonJnr said:


> Hello,
> 
> From what you've said about the usage, I don't see the need to spend so much money. I don't think you will need that much RAM unless you're doing something like video editing, and you definitely don't need such a high wattage power supply, seeing as you haven't mentioned gaming, and hence wouldn't need a high-end graphics card that consumes that much power. In my opinion, you should be fine with a non-K Core i5 processor with a B85/H87 motherboard, 8GB of RAM, and a 550W max 80+ Gold PSU.
> 
> ...


Thank you for your help. The price range you have everything in is amazing! I was expecting to pay at least 2K. I did fail to mention that I will at times run multiple monitors. I will show customers videos (sound and video) on one TV via HDMI connection. Also, my wife at times will work from home and needs to log into her works network/ cpu at her job which hogs power. I have seen my current cpu getting worked hard with my task and her task. We are seriously discussing running two monitors side by side (either HDMI or VGA connections most likely VGA) which is great for the type of work she does (paralegal) for comparing docs side by side. I can see where I at times could be running 3 monitors. I currently have all the TV/ monitors, keyboard etc. So with all that in mind, video card? Think I will need one? Also, I don't mind paying a few more bucks for 700+ watt power supply. I would have just bought a 1000 watt if it wasn't for your post, so you have been shaping me to be more frugal.  Sound card? A decent sound card that has some cool effects. One good enough for the guy who likes to let loose once in a while. Don't need a DJ sound card, but wouldn't mind one that is intuitive to use and has some great sound effects. Sorry, I should have been more specific in my original post. These are thing that I just thought of to post as well. 

To answer some questions, no gaming as I get motion sickness when using the cpu, but do fine with xbox. I can see where I will edit photos in the near future, but nothing hard core. I stress that I want the cpu to be extremely reliable. Be able to handle 12+ hours of on time and last for 4+ years. Fast and fast, at log in, and during applications and browsing. I will most likely go with at least 12GB (1600) of ram, again a compromise between my current idea of 16 and your idea of 8. That Seagate hard drive, is it as good as a WD black drive? I have used black drives for years and they have been wonderful. Will the Seagate last 4+ years through my heavy long hours? I will say though the price is much better on the Seagate then my typical choice of WD black drives. 

Last thoughts. Forgive me for my lack of knowledge the different kinds of PCI slots. Your choice on the motherboard, does it have good versatility with its PCI slots as compared to other motherboards? Seriously, I have flexibility for a more expensive motherboard as your build is so cost effective. 

Again, thank you for your thoughts and time, Jack.


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## buildzoid (May 30, 2014)

tigasport said:


> Thank you for your help. The price range you have everything in is amazing! I was expecting to pay at least 2K. I did fail to mention that I will at times run multiple monitors. I will show customers videos (sound and video) on one TV via HDMI connection. Also, my wife at times will work from home and needs to log into her works network/ cpu at her job which hogs power. I have seen my current cpu getting worked hard with my task and her task. We are seriously discussing running two monitors side by side (either HDMI or VGA connections most likely VGA) which is great for the type of work she does (paralegal) for comparing docs side by side. I can see where I at times could be running 3 monitors. I currently have all the TV/ monitors, keyboard etc. So with all that in mind, video card? Think I will need one? Also, I don't mind paying a few more bucks for 700+ watt power supply. I would have just bought a 1000 watt if it wasn't for your post, so you have been shaping me to be more frugal.  Sound card? A decent sound card that has some cool effects. One good enough for the guy who likes to let loose once in a while. Don't need a DJ sound card, but wouldn't mind one that is intuitive to use and has some great sound effects. Sorry, I should have been more specific in my original post. These are thing that I just thought of to post as well.
> 
> To answer some questions, no gaming as I get motion sickness when using the cpu, but do fine with xbox. I can see where I will edit photos in the near future, but nothing hard core. I stress that I want the cpu to be extremely reliable. Be able to handle 12+ hours of on time and last for 4+ years. Fast and fast, at log in, and during applications and browsing. I will most likely go with at least 12GB (1600) of ram, again a compromise between my current idea of 16 and your idea of 8. That Seagate hard drive, is it as good as a WD black drive? I have used black drives for years and they have been wonderful. Will the Seagate last 4+ years through my heavy long hours? I will say though the price is much better on the Seagate then my typical choice of WD black drives.
> 
> ...


All CPUs are reliable easily capable of running 24/7 for 5 years, most operating systems on the other hand are not.
If you run a PSU at less than 20% load you are wasting a ton of power. Optimum efficiency is achieved at 50% load.

In your position I would go for a FX 8320 and 8GB of RAM on a Gigabyte 970A-DS3P and a passively cooler GT610, the PSU I would go for a 450W Seasonic unit. With the sound card I would just pick up an ASUS Xonar that fits in your budget. Really a system for your needs shouldn't cost more than 550$.


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## BarbaricSoul (May 30, 2014)

Ok, in reponse to your questions-

About the monitor/monitors. As a college student, I fully understand your reasoning for multiple monitors, but let me make a suggestion. How about a 30" 1600p monitor? I have one I use for my college assignments. It is literally 4 of my laptops monitors in one, and I use it like that. I'll have 4 windows open at one time and laid out so I can see all of them at the same time. Between it and my laptops monitor, I basically have 5 1280*768  viewable monitors at once.

As for a video card, for multiple monitors or one large 1600p monitor like I just suggested, yes, you will need a video card. A Nvidia GTX 750 or AMD R7 260 should be able to do what you want, but they will not yield good gaming performance on multiple monitors or a 1600p monitor (which is irrelevant from that you've said).

As for reliability, I promise you, you will not be running your CPU harder than I do. I run my CPUs at absolute full load for weeks on end running the WCG crunching program. Any of todays CPUs will have no problem running like that as long as you insure it does not over-heat. Since you don't plan to over-clock, the stock heatsink will be sufficient for that. Just open the case once or twice a year and clean out the dust.

As for the Seagate, Seagate's hard drives are just as good as WD drives. I personally have a Seagate 7200.12 that is about 6-7 years old, and still going strong in my 2600k system. It has been my main hard drive (sometimes used by it's self, sometimes with a SSD)for the past 5 years. At one time, there was a problem with Seagate hard drives, but that issue has been long since fixed.

As for the RAM, don't get 12 gb or RAM. Whether you run 4, 8, or 16 GB of RAM , it is important that you run an even number of sticks of RAM for your system to run in dual channel mode. You would need two 6gb sticks or four 3gb sticks of RAM to run 12gb of RAM in dual channel. Too bad they do not make 3 or 6gb of RAM. Just go a head and get 16gb of DDR3 1600 RAM.


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## ne6togadno (May 30, 2014)

intel build
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/qdhhK8

amd apu
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Ks4HRB

amd fx
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/KMtvbv

monitor
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/dell-monitor-u3014

edit:
fixed some links and b85 replaced with h87


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## Jetster (May 30, 2014)

For me the B85 is out. Just because the failure rate is higher. H87 is good. Other than that the Intel build is spot on


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## ne6togadno (May 30, 2014)

Jetster said:


> For me the B85 is out. Just because the failure rate is higher. H87 is good. Other than that the Intel build is spot on


still with amd you get more for same  or less $
intel build is with 8gb 1600 rest are with 16gb 2133 ram


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## LaytonJnr (May 31, 2014)

tigasport said:


> Also, I don't mind paying a few more bucks for 700+ watt power supply. I would have just bought a 1000 watt if it wasn't for your post, so you have been shaping me to be more frugal.



There is absolutely no need for your system to have a 700W+ power supply, despite you having the budget to do so. Its absolutely pointless, as you'll never reach the need for 700W in the systems that are being suggested, even if you upgrade and are running a high performance graphics card. The best option for you would be a 550W MAXIMUM power supply, but a lot of people have been suggesting 450W variants. With the systems people have suggested, you are likely to be running most of the time at around 200-300W (with a low-end GPU), which is where an 80+ certified power supply is most efficient. I would suggest an XFX or Seasonic 450W or 550W, preferably 80+ Gold/Platinum rated if you can find it.



tigasport said:


> To answer some questions, no gaming as I get motion sickness when using the cpu, but do fine with xbox. I can see where I will edit photos in the near future, but nothing hard core. I stress that I want the cpu to be extremely reliable. Be able to handle 12+ hours of on time and last for 4+ years. Fast and fast, at log in, and during applications and browsing.



In that case, you are unlikely to need a higher-end GPU if gaming is out of the question. But as @BarbaricSoul suggested, running a multi-monitor or one large 1600p monitor will require some more oomph than the Intel integrated graphics. I would agree that an NVIDIA GTX 750 or AMD R7 260 would be suitable for the build, although you could probably go a little bit lower (i.e. GT 740, R7 250/250X). I feel you want to spend money, so feel free to get the two I mentioned before.

As for the CPU, an Intel Core i5 4460 or 4570 are very reliable CPUs, and will be able to handle that many hours, and last for a number of years. To be honest, CPUs for most people are so fast that they are too quick for people's needs, so perhaps will never reach their maximum performance purely because their lower performance is already good enough. The thing that will make the PC fast to log on and fast to open applications is the SSD, which we've already looked at in your build.



tigasport said:


> I will most likely go with at least 12GB (1600) of ram, again a compromise between my current idea of 16 and your idea of 8. That Seagate hard drive, is it as good as a WD black drive? I have used black drives for years and they have been wonderful. Will the Seagate last 4+ years through my heavy long hours? I will say though the price is much better on the Seagate then my typical choice of WD black drives.



Your PC is extremely unlikely to ever require 12GB of RAM, no matter what you throw at it. Hardcore gamers, who play games that use vast amounts of RAM (almost) never require more than 8GB for their needs, and they are pushing their systems close to the limit. I would like to reiterate that in reality, the only reason a person would need more than 8GB of RAM is if they do a lot of video editing or 3D modelling, or similar programs that need more RAM for intense rendering. So a 2x 4GB RAM kit, 1600MHz CL9 is perhaps the best option for you. You should have RAM in pairs or quadruplets for the best performance, hence another reason why I would not suggest 12GB of RAM, as you would require 2x 6GB sticks, or 4x 3GB sticks, but these don't exist. If you must have more than 8GB of RAM, then go with 16GB (2x 8GB, or 4x 4GB), but I would advise that its unlikely to be necessary in your system.

Seagate and Western Digital both create great drives, that are pretty much equal. Except Western Digital ones can often be more expensive due to their popularity - a 1TB WD Black drive cost twice the price of a similar 1TB Barracuda drive. A Samsung SSD and Seagate HDD combo would be a great choice.



tigasport said:


> Last thoughts. Forgive me for my lack of knowledge the different kinds of PCI slots. Your choice on the motherboard, does it have good versatility with its PCI slots as compared to other motherboards? Seriously, I have flexibility for a more expensive motherboard as your build is so cost effective.



I don't quite understand what your worry is about, as most modern ATX and mATX boards are very similar in their PCI / PCIe slots they have, and all manufacturers have versatile slots. The current need of PCIe slots in your system is a PCIe 3.0 x16 for the GPU (for multi-monitor / 1600p monitor setup), and perhaps a PCIe x1 or x4 for the sound card, which the motherboard has. I chose a mATX motherboard (a smaller one) so that the case you have doesn't take up as much room. I also chose the most expensive H87 mATX motherboard. Unless you are overclocking (which is not necessary for your needs in anyway), then there isn't much need for a more expensive motherboard. And probably the reason why my build seems so cost effective for you is that your needs are not quite as intensive as someone else who may be spending 3K on a video editing rig that requires more expensive components.

Sorry this is such a long post - your questions have quite long answers. I would like to hear your feedback, and then I (or another TPU member) could modify a better build for you based on your thoughts.

Layton


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## tigasport (May 31, 2014)

Again, thanks for your time. I have been considering your thoughts and researching. I have a great laugh for you: 660 watt power supply, hey much improvement over my idea of a 1000+ watt. I took your recommendations on SeaSonic 80+ Platinum. 

Slight changes I'm strongly considering from your post and dne6togadno. So far here is where I'm at in the build: 

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/7pHdxr

Got ideas on a multi card reader and sound card?


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## tigasport (May 31, 2014)

Next update: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/cCdKcf


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## tigasport (May 31, 2014)

ne6togadno said:


> http://pcpartpicker.com/p/wVzQGX
> following most of your specs.
> 
> what i would buy for task you described
> ...


AMD over intel?


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## LaytonJnr (May 31, 2014)

tigasport said:


> Again, thanks for your time. I have been considering your thoughts and researching. I have a great laugh for you: 660 watt power supply, hey much improvement over my idea of a 1000+ watt. I took your recommendations on SeaSonic 80+ Platinum.
> 
> Slight changes I'm strongly considering from your post and dne6togadno. So far here is where I'm at in the build:
> 
> ...



We cannot seem to convince you to get a lower wattage power supply - you honestly don't need that much! But its your money, so your choice.

In terms of a multi card reader, it would probably be easiest to get a 5.25in version, unless someone suggests a good case (something you missed out on in the build) with a 3.5in front bay. I know that Akasa make some great card readers in the 5.25in form factor, and the aluminium-like finish of some of their units blends in quite well with the Corsair 350D I suggested in an earlier post. NZXT also do a nice mesh-based one, which blends in quite nicely to mesh-front cases. The choice is yours based on the aesthetics of the case, and the specific card reading features you would want. Also, a lot of card readers have USB 3.0 ports, however you only have one USB 3.0 header on your motherboard, which may be attached to the case front I/O USB 3.0 cable.

Sound cards aren't really my speciality, but I would suggest an ASUS Xonar series sound card. Which model really depends on how concerned you are about audio quality - a proper audiophile would invest in an expensive external DAC because they want complete sound purity. 

Layton

PS. You can do multiple replies in one post, as well as edit previous posts to add new quotes, instead of triple posting. You can get a lot of hate from triple posting


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## tigasport (May 31, 2014)

tigasport said:


> Next update: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/cCdKcf




Ok, this is the last update for now until tomorrow when I have more time: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/MkJ66h

I can see that I'm going to need advise/ spend time looking at cases. With my current set up what size case will I need/ recommendations? I know the motherboard is larger then your first recommendation and I will run two optical drives

Final parts: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/tigasport/saved/KNc48d

You will notice that I took into consideration your ideas on the power supply now 550w and SSD drive now 250gb. As far as I know all parts should work together. I will buy all the parts in the next few days. You have been extremely helpful and your advise is always considered strongly. Let me know your thoughts on the build. 

Also, if I were to be watching Netflix on my cpu, could I push resolutions above 1080? My concern is my signal, I have no idea if I can push resolutions above 1080 with my comcast/ internet connection or if Netflix has resolutions about 1080. I know most Youtube channels don't go above 1080 either.


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## tigasport (May 31, 2014)

LaytonJnr said:


> We cannot seem to convince you to get a lower wattage power supply - you honestly don't need that much! But its your money, so your choice.
> 
> In terms of a multi card reader, it would probably be easiest to get a 5.25in version, unless someone suggests a good case (something you missed out on in the build) with a 3.5in front bay. I know that Akasa make some great card readers in the 5.25in form factor, and the aluminium-like finish of some of their units blends in quite well with the Corsair 350D I suggested in an earlier post. NZXT also do a nice mesh-based one, which blends in quite nicely to mesh-front cases. The choice is yours based on the aesthetics of the case, and the specific card reading features you would want. Also, a lot of card readers have USB 3.0 ports, however you only have one USB 3.0 header on your motherboard, which may be attached to the case front I/O USB 3.0 cable.
> 
> ...



Thanks, for the tips on posting, sorry about that.


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## LaytonJnr (May 31, 2014)

tigasport said:


> I can see that I'm going to need advise/ spend time looking at cases. With my current set up what size case will I need/ recommendations? I know the motherboard is larger then your first recommendation and I will run two optical drives



A person's case is quite a personal thing, so I would recommend doing your research. But if we're factoring two optical drives AND a card reader, your looking at having at least three 5.25in bays. To be honest, you could get away with using two if you use a Bluray and DVD multidrive, which opens up your options a lot more. As a starting push to your research, have a look at the Corsair Obsidian series (i.e. 650D, 750D), and the NZXT Phantom series (i.e. 530, 630, 820). There are so many great cases out there, so often its about personal choice over features and aesthetics.

Layton


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## ne6togadno (May 31, 2014)

tigasport said:


> Next update: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/cCdKcf


you have missed case (look at mid towers)
750ti is good choice
500gb ssd is overkill. win 7 ultimate fresh install is about 50gb with some programs browser cash etc lets say it 60gb. for what you are going to use rest 440gb?
for os/programs drive 128gb ssd is fine.
g.skill, kingston, crusial etc. offer ram with better price/performance ratio  then corsair
you dont need 2xODDs you can gave blue ray writer for about 80$


tigasport said:


> AMD over intel?


intel
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/K7CGxr

amd apu
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/yfm66h

amd fx
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Kx9bwP

i have fixed my lists so they are all the same but for cpu/mb/ram so you can make difference in pricing between amd and intel. i have added vga card in amd apu system for comparison. if you decide to go this apu way you dont need to purchase vga card. integrated graphics on amd's apus is better intel's bur since you want pc to be future proof i would recommend you to go with dedicated vga.
better amd price comes at the cost of about 50W more power consumption (18kw more per month at 12h power on daily) for fx build.
both cpus are quite capable and i doubt you will ever be able to load them at more then 30-40% with tasks you have explained.
i have added sound card and card reader in my builds but i cant advise you much here. i have seen some ppl here complaining about asus xonar drivers so i picked best soundblaster i have found.
cant really advice on card reader too. i use usb multi reader and i dont have any problems with it. also if you going after 1600p monitor consider that dell 3014 i have linked before has build in card reader http://www.dell.com/ed/business/p/dell-u3014/pd


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## tigasport (Jun 1, 2014)

ne6togadno said:


> you have missed case (look at mid towers)
> 750ti is good choice
> 500gb ssd is overkill. win 7 ultimate fresh install is about 50gb with some programs browser cash etc lets say it 60gb. for what you are going to use rest 440gb?
> for os/programs drive 128gb ssd is fine.
> ...




Concerning the Dell monitor. I have been tempted to buy one, but will my internet push graphics that nice? If I'm watching Netflix, can I get above 1080? I have fast cable internet, but not sure what king of resolution I can get from it.

As for the build here is the completion: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/tigasport/saved/cv448d
I took some advice from you and Layton on the build. Some parts from your recommendations and some from his. Let me know your thoughts about the final build which I think everything will work together and the monitor. Thanks for you help.

Sorry, here is the permalink: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/ghvTP6


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## ne6togadno (Jun 1, 2014)

i am not us citizen and i dont have idea how netflix works. i think @BarbaricSoul can help you with this
also you have pasted browser link not perma link from pcpartpicker so i get 404 error (i guess every one else will get it too)


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## BarbaricSoul (Jun 1, 2014)

The movies would have to be recorded in 1600p, otherwise they are just 1080p if I'm not mistaken.


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## Vario (Jun 1, 2014)

Could always consider a Xeon 1230v3 1150, uses less power than an i5, 8 threads which might help with lots of browser tabs, simultaneous stuff.

All Intels can run 24/7 but the Xeon is specifically picked for that function, for what its worth (marketing?)
cpu http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116906 
mobo http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131996
ram http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233192
psu http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151119
vga http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487044
ssd http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226371
hdd http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236624
hsf http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099
case http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129187
front fan http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835200021
paste http://www.newegg.com/Shopping/ShoppingItem.aspx?ItemList=N82E16835100007
dvd drive http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204
Subtotal: $973.38

This would easily last 5 years without becoming obsolete.


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## tigasport (Jun 1, 2014)

ne6togadno said:


> i am not us citizen and i dont have idea how netflix works. i think @BarbaricSoul can help you with this
> also you have pasted browser link not perma link from pcpartpicker so i get 404 error (i guess every one else will get it too)



Sorry, here is the permalink: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/ghvTP6


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## ne6togadno (Jun 2, 2014)

tigasport said:


> Sorry, here is the permalink: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/ghvTP6


no point in 2 odds. you can do it with http://pcpartpicker.com/part/lite-on-optical-drive-ihbs11204
everything else is ok. 500gb sdd is a bit overkill but even with it and 1600p monitor you still will have about 300$ left from 3k budget so you can call a pint for all to celebrate your new pc


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## LaytonJnr (Jun 2, 2014)

tigasport said:


> Sorry, here is the permalink: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/ghvTP6



I'm not a fan of the case - its looks a little too tacky for me. Is there a reason you chose it? I generally tend towards NZXT, Fractal Design or Corsair cases. But apart from that, as @ne6togadno said, a 500GB SSD is quite a bit overkill. You could also consider a Xeon build, as suggested by @Vario.

Layton


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## tigasport (Jun 2, 2014)

ne6togadno said:


> no point in 2 odds. you can do it with http://pcpartpicker.com/part/lite-on-optical-drive-ihbs11204
> everything else is ok. 500gb sdd is a bit overkill but even with it and 1600p monitor you still will have about 300$ left from 3k budget so you can call a pint for all to celebrate your new pc



I don't know why it didn't save the changes. I changed from 500gb SSD to a 250gb SSD. Here is the link: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/tigasport/saved/KNc48d


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## ne6togadno (Jun 2, 2014)

tigasport said:


> I don't know why it didn't save the changes. I changed from 500gb SSD to a 250gb SSD. Here is the link: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/tigasport/saved/KNc48d


every time you change something perma link is change so you need to copy it again after you are done with changes.
is there any particular reason you need 2 odds.


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## LaytonJnr (Jun 2, 2014)

tigasport said:


> I don't know why it didn't save the changes. I changed from 500gb SSD to a 250gb SSD. Here is the link: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/tigasport/saved/KNc48d



I would still recommend, as @ne6togadno getting one Bluray and DVD combo multidrive, as there isn't really a real need for two ODDs, and it could be argued there is no need for an disc drive at all in this era of fast internet and downloading. The only real use of a disc drive is perhaps OS installation, playing Bluray movies, the occasional CD, or for that ancient art of CD/DVD burning. I also am still not a fan of the case 

Layton


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## tigasport (Jun 2, 2014)

LaytonJnr said:


> I'm not a fan of the case - its looks a little too tacky for me. Is there a reason you chose it? I generally tend towards NZXT, Fractal Design or Corsair cases. But apart from that, as @ne6togadno said, a 500GB SSD is quite a bit overkill. You could also consider a Xeon build, as suggested by @Vario.
> 
> Layton



The case is a bit tacky. Reason I chose it was because I need a case that has two 5.25" front slots and one 3.5" front slot for the multi card reader which is 3.5".  I also wanted 3.0 usb port in the top of it as I use the ports all the time. I narrowed it down to 25 mid size cases to chose from, copy and paste the link:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007583 600006522 600311671&IsNodeId=1&name=USB 3.0 / Audio

I have favored full towers in the past as plenty for room for mounting everything. I have not used a mid size case before. I will just take your word on using a mid case.

I don't know why but I had changed the SSD to a 250 but PCpartspicker didn't save it. Here is the list with the 250gb SSD: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/tigasport/saved/KNc48d

I just started looking over Vario build (Xeon). So, his processor is: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116906 and the one I chose is: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

Which is better and why? I notice the Intel Xeon has more cache at 8mb instead of 6mb, but the i5-4690 has more hz. Yes, I did notice where the Xeon is suppose to be a 24/7 work horse, but is that just bs/ chatter?

Update: Here is the new case I'm going to use: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139015

http://pcpartpicker.com/user/tigasport/saved/KNc48d

Processor: I am very conflicted. Really love some feedback on this: eiter i5-4690 or Intel Xeon E3-1230V3 (new version is: Intel E3-1231 v3 3.4GHz 8MB L3 Cache 80W Quad-Core Server Processor BX80646E31231V3 ) Any input?


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## LaytonJnr (Jun 2, 2014)

tigasport said:


> The case is a bit tacky. Reason I chose it was because I need a case that has two 5.25" front slots and one 3.5" front slot for the multi card reader which is 3.5".  I also wanted 3.0 usb port in the top of it as I use the ports all the time. I narrowed it down to 25 mid size cases to chose from, copy and paste the link:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007583 600006522 600311671&IsNodeId=1&name=USB 3.0 / Audio
> 
> I have favored full towers in the past as plenty for room for mounting everything. I have not used a mid size case before. I will just take your word on using a mid case.



You could always buy a 5.25in multi card reader (such as the NZXT Aperture M), or buy a 5.25in-to-3.5in bay adapter. If not, you could look at the Antec P183 V3 or the Bitfenix Colossus, which both have front 3.5in bays. But if anything I've suggested is not great, then an external card reader is better than getting a perhaps sub-par, or tacky case. And the mid-towers of today have been well engineered for plenty amount of room for mounting everything.


Layton


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## Vario (Jun 2, 2014)

tigasport said:


> The case is a bit tacky. Reason I chose it was because I need a case that has two 5.25" front slots and one 3.5" front slot for the multi card reader which is 3.5".  I also wanted 3.0 usb port in the top of it as I use the ports all the time. I narrowed it down to 25 mid size cases to chose from, copy and paste the link:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007583 600006522 600311671&IsNodeId=1&name=USB 3.0 / Audio
> 
> ...


Xeon is an underclocked i7 that has less power requirements than an i7.  Its made for servers and workstations and designed for cool, low wattage operation.  The bigger difference besides the extra cache is it has 8 threads instead of 4 (hyperthreading).  The extra threads essentially give you more (virtual) cores, allowing for more multitasking.  Windows task manager sees 8 CPUs instead of 4.  The clock rate difference really doesn't matter that much with modern Intel architectures, the i5 will be slightly better at a single task, while the Xeon will be better at multitasking and video rendering, otherwise they are pretty similar.  The i5 has integrated video, but if you are using a discrete graphics card it doesn't matter.  If your graphics card fails, it is useful to have the built in video.

You could also consider the newer Xeon 1231v3 which has an extra 100mhz, This is the 1231v3 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117316.  According to Asus, the B85 plus supports both of these CPUs.

From my experience, the 1230v2 3.3ghz (previous gen) Xeon wasn't much slower than my i7 3.7ghz 3770k.  I could not even tell a difference except when playing Starcraft 2.

Here is the cpu support listing for the B85 Plus I suggested http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/list.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=45&m=B85-PLUS&os=&hashedid=OQhUkmwWTnz7HF4n.

My i7 seems to handle lots and lots of pages of firefox much easier than my i5, but it could just be the generation gap (sandy to ivy).


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## tigasport (Jun 3, 2014)

Vario said:


> Xeon is an underclocked i7 that has less power requirements than an i7.  Its made for servers and workstations and designed for cool, low wattage operation.  The bigger difference besides the extra cache is it has 8 threads instead of 4 (hyperthreading).  The extra threads essentially give you more (virtual) cores, allowing for more multitasking.  Windows task manager sees 8 CPUs instead of 4.  The clock rate difference really doesn't matter that much with modern Intel architectures, the i5 will be slightly better at a single task, while the Xeon will be better at multitasking and video rendering, otherwise they are pretty similar.  The i5 has integrated video, but if you are using a discrete graphics card it doesn't matter.  If your graphics card fails, it is useful to have the built in video.
> 
> You could also consider the newer Xeon 1231v3 which has an extra 100mhz, This is the 1231v3 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117316.  According to Asus, the B85 plus supports both of these CPUs.
> 
> ...



So here is the entire order I made: 
Processor: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117315 (took your advice on the server style processor)
Motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128712 (check compatibility via Gigabyte and the processor is compatible)
Ram: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233280
Processor fan: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099
OS: Windows 7 pro 64bit
PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151088 (reason I went with the SeaSonic X series is they are rated the best. I went with the lowest wattage I could find, which unfortunately was 650W. The 550W SeaSonic G series I was going to use has many mixed reviews with many units crashing) 
Blu-ray drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135247
Hard drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147193 ($50 more for the best 250g SSD drive. Since I have a WD 1tb hard drive laying around, I will use it for my second drive).
Video card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125502 (can I buy a DVI to VGA adapter for this and it will work?) I plan to use the 2 HDMI ports for my business monitors/ customers to watch. I show video for products I sell. 
Case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139013
Card reader: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA12K1045403 (decided to go with an external card reader as either you or Layton recommended, which was a great idea)
Sound card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

Not all but most parts I got from NewEgg ( I trust them). 
Total approx: $1550. 

I would have bought the best i7, Z87 motherboard, 1000+ PSU, full tower case, possibly 32mb ram and the best ram made, some crazy super fancy processor fan, SSD 500gb and another 1tb SSD, and even higher end video cards, possibly two video cards and run them SLI. I was expecting to pay 2-3K. The current cpu I have was over 3K some 4 years ago that I built. Good news is it lasted and still runs, bad news is it was overkill. I recognize that now. Current build is probably a little overkill also, but I made several changes with the advise given in this thread which all were excellent advise. 

Thank you Layton, Vario, and ne6togadno for all the advise, your time and help. 

Other question:
I have heard may say boot up times with SSD are around 5 seconds- oh ya!  Will I still have that kind of boot up time if I put my OS on the SSD and use the WD 1tb? Or should I use a SSD for a second drive/ storage instead so I keep the fast boot time?


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## LaytonJnr (Jun 3, 2014)

tigasport said:


> Thank you Layton, Vario, and ne6togadno for all the advise, your time and help.



You are very welcome. What you have there is a very awesome build, and despite being a tad overkill, that should definitely last you a good while, and should be perfect for your needs at half the budget. Glad to have helped.



tigasport said:


> Other question:
> I have heard may say boot up times with SSD are around 5 seconds- oh ya!  Will I still have that kind of boot up time if I put my OS on the SSD and use the WD 1tb? Or should I use a SSD for a second drive/ storage instead so I keep the fast boot time?



Definitely install the OS on the SSD, as the fast boot times are brilliant. I would also install all of your main programs on that drive, because it means that the loading of programs is also lightning quick. If you need extra storage for whatever reason (such as large photo files, a vast music library), then use the 1TB HDD (assuming you bought one). If you haven't bought one, then not exactly expensive.

Layton


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## ne6togadno (Jun 3, 2014)

tigasport said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> ...





tigasport said:


> Other question:
> I have heard may say boot up times with SSD are around 5 seconds- oh ya!  Will I still have that kind of boot up time if I put my OS on the SSD and use the WD 1tb? Or should I use a SSD for a second drive/ storage instead so I keep the fast boot time?


it is more like 15 then 5 sec but still it is way faster then 45+ sec for hdd.
good ssd abc guide here (skip serial number identification everthing else is applicable to any ssd drive)


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## tigasport (Jun 3, 2014)

LaytonJnr said:


> You are very welcome. What you have there is a very awesome build, and despite being a tad overkill, that should definitely last you a good while, and should be perfect for your needs at half the budget. Glad to have helped.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Should I use for a second drive an SSD to keep the fast boot times? I have laying around a 1tb WD black drive, so I thought I might use it for music, videos, pictures, doc etc, but question is will it slow down my system, should I use for storage an SSD instead? My current cpu has a 2tb WD black drive I partition 300gb for OS and approx 1.7tb for storage. I currently have 80g on the 300gb OS partition, and 70gb on the 1.7tb. So, my thoughts for the new system are to run a 250gb SSD for the OS, and run a 500 or 750gb SSD for storage (music, pic, doc, videos, etc) Pictures/ video files will be increasing due to new child being born, so might be wise to have 750gb SSD.


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## LaytonJnr (Jun 3, 2014)

tigasport said:


> Should I use for a second drive an SSD to keep the fast boot times? I have laying around a 1tb WD black drive, so I thought I might use it for music, videos, pictures, doc etc, but question is will it slow down my system, should I use for storage an SSD instead? My current cpu has a 2tb WD black drive I partition 300gb for OS and approx 1.7tb for storage. I currently have 80g on the 300gb OS partition, and 70gb on the 1.7tb. So, my thoughts for the new system are to run a 250gb SSD for the OS, and run a 500 or 750gb SSD for storage (music, pic, doc, videos, etc) Pictures/ video files will be increasing due to new child being born, so might be wise to have 750gb SSD.



If it were me, it would be far cheaper and easier to use the WD 1TB as storage. I don't think there would be problems with the speed of accessing these files, and even if there was, HDD aren't that slow in reality. There's just been a big boom in the SSD craze for super fast access times, but real-life performance on a HDD is still great.

EDIT: An SSD and HDD combo is most effective for people who do a lot of video and photo editing, as they can store the large files on the HDD, and are able to write and rewrite the data on the HDD to their hearts content. An SSD has some limitations in terms of constant rewriting, as there are only a number of times the DIMMs can be rewritten (probably didn't explain that too well...)

Layton


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## ne6togadno (Jun 3, 2014)

os/programs on ssd
storage on hdd


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## tigasport (Jun 3, 2014)

LaytonJnr said:


> If it were me, it would be far cheaper and easier to use the WD 1TB as storage. I don't think there would be problems with the speed of accessing these files, and even if there was, HDD aren't that slow in reality. There's just been a big boom in the SSD craze for super fast access times, but real-life performance on a HDD is still great.
> 
> EDIT: An SSD and HDD combo is most effective for people who do a lot of video and photo editing, as they can store the large files on the HDD, and are able to write and rewrite the data on the HDD to their hearts content. An SSD has some limitations in terms of constant rewriting, as there are only a number of times the DIMMs can be rewritten (probably didn't explain that too well...)
> 
> Layton



Then HDD I think it will be. Convenient since I have a spare 1tb WD black drive just laying around.


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## BigBoi (Jun 3, 2014)

Enjoy your new rig!!!! Please post pics when its done!


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## tigasport (Jun 4, 2014)

BigBoi said:


> Enjoy your new rig!!!! Please post pics when its done!


Thanks. Should have all of it here by next week.


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## tigasport (Jun 5, 2014)

Throwing this out there to anyone. I have spent some time researching blu-ray software. What a hellish headache. Mainly, I just want to play blu-rays, dvd, etc on my cpu. Simple task like pause, rewind, fast forward, etc are what I need. You know, basically like watching Youtube online, Netflix, etc. Currently I get Netflix. To be able to watch newer block buster movies at a reasonable price you still have to watch them via disc, in my case blu-ray disc. Now, free software (for Blu-ray playing) tends to come with a price; viruses, hence payed for software tends to be better. Connection will either be HDMI, VGA or DVI, most likely VGA though my video card. Sound will need to go though my sound card : http://pcpartpicker.com/user/tigasport/saved/KNc48d

Here is software I'm considering the more so then others: Arcsoft Totalmedia: http://www.arcsoft.com/media/tmt/?gclid=CKCyiaqT4r4CFeKXOgodWh4AnQ
NewEgg reviews: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...75012&cm_re=TotalMedia-_-32-675-012-_-Product

Reviews on several types of software to be able to play blu-rays, etc: http://blu-ray-player-software-review.toptenreviews.com/

This is a tough one to figure out since reviews are all over the place on every type of blu-ray software. 
Any idea's?


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## ne6togadno (Jun 5, 2014)

window media center or VLC player.


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## tigasport (Jun 5, 2014)

ne6togadno said:


> window media center or VLC player.



Windows media doesn't play blu-ray. Is VLC player safe to download? I have always been weary of free software. Check reviews http://download.cnet.com/VLC-Media-Player/3000-13632_4-10267151.html

First reviewer states it has spyware, but it was his antivirus software telling him so, hmmmmm. I will download the software into my current cpu as I don't care what happens to it. It has a blu-ray player, but I never used it for blu-rays as I just never took the time to download the software to do so.

Loaded VLC player and no go. My antivirus said it was safe, only problem is I was unable to play a blu-ray. I could see the disc and files, but was unable play the disc/ movie. I could still try VLC in my new build when it up and running.


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## ne6togadno (Jun 5, 2014)

vlc is ok.
i download it from portableapps.com (could be wrong with address check it with google).
dont look at those reviews.
dl it scan it with your antivirust before install and try it. if you like it keep it.
for me this is best player i have used so far. it never required to install codecs or something else. i use it for almost 10 years. and never had problems.
if it cant run some file i just update it to last version and everything is ok.


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## tigasport (Jun 5, 2014)

ne6togadno said:


> vlc is ok.
> i download it from portableapps.com (could be wrong with address check it with google).
> dont look at those reviews.
> dl it scant it with your antivirust before install and try it. if you like it keep it.
> ...



Good to know. Norton didn't cause any issues while downloading. Maybe I can try it again later.


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## Vario (Jun 5, 2014)

tigasport said:


> Video card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125502 (can I buy a DVI to VGA adapter for this and it will work?) I plan to use the 2 HDMI ports for my business monitors/ customers to watch. I show video for products I sell.
> 
> 
> Other question:
> I have heard may say boot up times with SSD are around 5 seconds- oh ya!  Will I still have that kind of boot up time if I put my OS on the SSD and use the WD 1tb? Or should I use a SSD for a second drive/ storage instead so I keep the fast boot time?



I think that VGA will take a DVI to VGA adapter.  The lower port in the photo looks like a multiuse port.  According to B&H:  





> The card can be connected to a variety of displays, including computer monitors, HDTVs, projectors, even many 3D and 4K devices. It features a DVI-I dual link port which support digital as well as VGA displays, a DVI-D (digital only) port, and two HDMI ports. Through the HDMI ports it can drive displays with resolutions up to DCI 4K (4096 x 2160). It can also drive up to four displays concurrently, depending on the total, aggregated resolution.


 http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1035748-REG/gigabyte_gv_n75toc_2gi_gtx_750_ti_graphic.html

The SSD should have OS and the HDD for storage, you will still have a fast boot.  I'd recommend installing the OS with only the SSD connected, connect the HDD after first boot.  Makes the process simpler.

Are you planning on running a performance cpu cooling fan or the stock intel one?

Here are some ideas, they all perform fairly similar despite prices:

Noctua NH-U12S (PROS: build quality, mounting system, good fan CONS: expensive, only one fan)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608040
CM 212 Evo (PROS: price CONS: junky fan, mounting system wiggles)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099 
Phanteks PHTC12DX: (PROS: build quality, mounting system, two fans, color choices, CONS: fans are good but could be better)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709019


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## tigasport (Jun 6, 2014)

Vario said:


> I think that VGA will take a DVI to VGA adapter.  The lower port in the photo looks like a multiuse port.  According to B&H:   http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1035748-REG/gigabyte_gv_n75toc_2gi_gtx_750_ti_graphic.html
> 
> The SSD should have OS and the HDD for storage, you will still have a fast boot.  I'd recommend installing the OS with only the SSD connected, connect the HDD after first boot.  Makes the process simpler.
> 
> ...



I do have the fan. Here is a list of the parts: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/tigasport/saved/KNc48d  I got everything in except the case. Sometime next week it will be here.


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## Vario (Jun 6, 2014)

tigasport said:


> I do have the fan. Here is a list of the parts: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/tigasport/saved/KNc48d  I got everything in except the case. Sometime next week it will be here.
> 
> View attachment 57159


If you feel up to it you could do a test run of it on a table top, put the motherboard on top of it's box.  Just watch for static and don't test it on a rug or anything like that.


----------



## tigasport (Jun 7, 2014)

Vario said:


> If you feel up to it you could do a test run of it on a table top, put the motherboard on top of it's box.  Just watch for static and don't test it on a rug or anything like that.



Interesting idea, never thought to do that. The case will be in on Tuesday, so I will patiently wait


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## LaytonJnr (Jun 9, 2014)

tigasport said:


> Interesting idea, never thought to do that. The case will be in on Tuesday, so I will patiently wait



The method @Vario was suggesting doesn't require the case to test the components. This may be a good idea to test for any problems before the case comes, so that you don't have to wait so long for RMA replacements. But then the case is coming tomorrow, so perhaps not that useful. But if you're itching to go, you could test today.

Layton


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## tigasport (Jun 12, 2014)

LaytonJnr said:


> The method @Vario was suggesting doesn't require the case to test the components. This may be a good idea to test for any problems before the case comes, so that you don't have to wait so long for RMA replacements. But then the case is coming tomorrow, so perhaps not that useful. But if you're itching to go, you could test today.
> 
> Layton


I should have listen to you. I and two others (they have built many systems) put the system together last night. It doesn't work. No bios and no screen. The system turns on for about 30 seconds then turns off. Around 10 seconds later it turns back on again for about 30 seconds then turns off. On and on the same cycle. We isolated the system to just the mother board, cpu, ram, psu, and video card. Same problem of turning off and on. Removed the video card still same problem. I have two sticks of ram 8 gigs each. Remove one and same problem. Swap with the other ram, still same problem. I went to best buy and swapped the psu with other, still same problem, turns on for about 30 seconds, turns off for about 10 seconds and on and on. With a different psu still no bios or screen. I think the mother board is the problem. What is your thoughts anyone? Again here are basic parts: 

CPU:  Intel E3-1241 v3 3.5GHz 8MB L3 Cache 80W Quad-Core Server Processor BX80646E31241V3
<http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117315>

Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-H97-D3H LGA 1150 Intel H97 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

<http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128712>

Video card: GIGABYTE GV-N75TOC-2GI GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB 128-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 Video Card

 <http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125502>

Memory: CORSAIR Vengeance LP 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CML16GX3M2A1600C10

<http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233280> 

Power supply: SeaSonic X Series X650 Gold ((SS-650KM Active PFC F3)) 650W ATX12V V2.3/EPS 12V V2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply New 4th Gen CPU Certified Haswell Ready

<http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151088>


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## LaytonJnr (Jun 12, 2014)

tigasport said:


> I should have listen to you. I and two others (they have built many systems) put the system together last night. It doesn't work. No bios and no screen. The system turns on for about 30 seconds then turns off. Around 10 seconds later it turns back on again for about 30 seconds then turns off. On and on the same cycle. We isolated the system to just the mother board, cpu, ram, psu, and video card. Same problem of turning off and on. Removed the video card still same problem. I have two sticks of ram 8 gigs each. Remove one and same problem. Swap with the other ram, still same problem. I went to best buy and swapped the psu with other, still same problem, turns on for about 30 seconds, turns off for about 10 seconds and on and on. With a different psu still no bios or screen. I think the mother board is the problem. What is your thoughts anyone?



Have you tried reseating the CPU and reattaching the CPU cooler. It sounds like it may be an issue where the CPU perhaps is overheating on startup for some reason, probably because the CM Hyper 212 is not properly attached. Be warned - if you do this, you'll probably need to apply new thermal paste, which would involve cleaning the CPU and CPU cooler base with rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol), before applying thermal paste. What kind of method did you use to apply the thermal paste? Perhaps you used too much, or it didn't spread properly.

EDIT: I think what should've been done is that the build was tested on top of the motherboard cardboard box with the Intel Stock cooler (that is way easier to install and uninstall from the mobo) and the other main components (GPU, PSU) etc. Then the CPU top cleaned with rubbing alcohol, and then installing the system in the case, and attaching the CM Hyper 212 at that point, assuming everything was working when it was tested.

Layton


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## tigasport (Jun 12, 2014)

I might just dump the motherboard and go for another brand like MSI or Asus. The socket has to be a 1150. I also need the option for possible 2 video cards since I runs 3 different monitors in different locations in my business/ home. (I will show customers videos in a different rooms). Needs to run my sound card, got to blow the hair back once in a while. Needs to fit in a mid tower. Needs the ability to run up to 32gigs of ram, but only using 16gigs at the moment. It will need to be compatible with all the parts below. Extreme reliability is a must and a work horse for 12+ hours a day. What motherboard for this system would anyone recommend?

CPU:  Intel E3-1241 v3 3.5GHz 8MB L3 Cache 80W Quad-Core Server Processor BX80646E31241V3
<http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117315>

*May just dump this Motherboard* since this is most likely the problem I'm currently having: GIGABYTE GA-H97-D3H LGA 1150 Intel H97 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
<http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128712>

Video card: GIGABYTE GV-N75TOC-2GI GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB 128-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 Video Card
<http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125502>

Memory: CORSAIR Vengeance LP 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CML16GX3M2A1600C10
<http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233280>

Power supply: SeaSonic X Series X650 Gold ((SS-650KM Active PFC F3)) 650W ATX12V V2.3/EPS 12V V2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply New 4th Gen CPU Certified Haswell Ready
<http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151088>

CPU fan: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120 mm PWM Fan
<http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099>

Hard drive for operating system: SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series MZ-7PD256BW 2.5" 256GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
<http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147193>

Computer case: Corsair Vengeance Series C70 Gunmetal Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
<http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139013>

Sound card: Creative Labs Sound Blaster Zx soundcard
<http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=>

Optical drive 1 Blu-ray: ASUS Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM SATA Internal Blu-ray Drive Model BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS - OEM
<http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135247>

Optical drive 2 ASUS 24X DVD Burner - Bulk 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM Black SATA Model DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS - OEM
<http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204>

Operating system: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 64-bit - OEM - OEM


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## tigasport (Jun 12, 2014)

LaytonJnr said:


> Have you tried reseating the CPU and reattaching the CPU cooler. It sounds like it may be an issue where the CPU perhaps is overheating on startup for some reason, probably because the CM Hyper 212 is not properly attached. Be warned - if you do this, you'll probably need to apply new thermal paste, which would involve cleaning the CPU and CPU cooler base with rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol), before applying thermal paste. What kind of method did you use to apply the thermal paste? Perhaps you used too much, or it didn't spread properly.
> 
> EDIT: I think what should've been done is that the build was tested on top of the motherboard cardboard box with the Intel Stock cooler (that is way easier to install and uninstall from the mobo) and the other main components (GPU, PSU) etc. Then the CPU top cleaned with rubbing alcohol, and then installing the system in the case, and attaching the CM Hyper 212 at that point, assuming everything was working when it was tested.
> 
> Layton


We did go back and reinstall the cpu. It was in correct. Method was a drop of thermal paste which did cover the cpu properly or so appeared to.  Do your really think the cpu could overheat that fast? So fast that I can't get a screen or bios? 

Another update. I did take the cpu back out, clean it and reinstall it. I used a drop method of thermal paste. I notice that the guys who installed it had the cooler fan mount on slightly off to one side more than another. I currently have the cooler fan mounted perfectly center now. I did a test run and it still has the same problem. I can describe the situation better. Fans run for about 3 seconds, then power supply is turned off about 15 seconds later. After that, 5 seconds later the command is sent to turn power on again and the fans run for 3 seconds, then 15 seconds later all power is off. Then 5 seconds later power is on again and the same cycle over and over.


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## ne6togadno (Jun 12, 2014)

disconnect all front panel cables and connect only power button. (be very careful to connect it to correct pins).
check if ram is installed properly (look at youtube for videos).
it sounds more like assembly problem rather then fault part


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## LaytonJnr (Jun 13, 2014)

ne6togadno said:


> disconnect all front panel cables and connect only power button. (be very careful to connect it to correct pins.
> check if ram is installed properly (look at youtube for videos).
> it sounds more like assembly problem rather then fault part



^ +1 - Feel free to report back your findings.

Layton


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## tigasport (Jun 17, 2014)

LaytonJnr said:


> ^ +1 - Feel free to report back your findings.
> 
> Layton



So here is the problem. Either the motherboard is bad or the processor. I'm not going to throw money at it to figure out which it is. When I placed the 2 sticks of ram in the correct place (both in the 2 grey slots as the instructions in the manual say to do), the computer would not boot. I tried them in the black slot, same problem. After many different attempts if I run just one stick of memory the computer will boot. If I run both sticks of memory then I have to place one in the grey slot and one in the black slot which contradicts the manual by Gigabyte. 4 slots total 2 black and 2 grey. Only the first two slot will work at all, one black and one grey the back two slot will not work at all. According to Gigabytes website, the motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128712 and the processor: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117315 are suppose to be compatible. Why the ram slot are not working properly would either be a bad processor (highly unlikely), bad motherboard (maybe) or a compatibility issue with the motherboard and processor which Gigabyte didn't do their research and list that problem (most likely). 

I dumping the motherboard, processor and ram and changing them out for different ones. This time I'm going with an Asus motherboard as I have one in my current computer that has lasted 5 years now, so I will choose an Asus again. Here is the new build: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/tigasport/saved/KNc48d

The Asus Z79-A has all the ports on the back that I'm looking for. I read the bios is very user friendly. Price point was fantastic considering what the board offers. I can also run SLI if I need too. 3 different monitors in 3 different locations in the business (all in 2 rooms connected)

After doing a lot of research on the motherboard, I most likely could have skipped using a video card and sound card. I was not aware that motherboards had so many features to them. I'm use to buying the video card and sound card separate. Considering my first choice of processor was a extremely reliable server style processor which doesn't support all the features on the motherboard, then a separate video card and sound card makes sense.


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## ne6togadno (Jun 17, 2014)

something is wrong with bios settings.
add one ram stick and enter bios. load optimized defaults turn it off and add 2nd ram stick. if it still doesnt boot removes 2nd stick and go to memory settings (page 40 of mb manual found in mb box or http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_ga-z97(h97)-d3h_e.pdf).
use profile 1 under xmp profiles
leave everything else as it is. try add 2nd stick if still doesnt work try with xmp profile 2.
if still no chnage check what bios version has your mb if it is f3 go to http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4962#bios download F4 bios and use q-flash to update bios (you will need tumb stick formated on fat16 or fat32)
try again with optimized defaults and xmp profiles.
your problems could be cause you ram isnt officialy supported by your mb. it is very very unlikely but yet you could be vicitim of those very rare cases of incompability between ram and mb.
try to change ram first (suppoted memory list) and after that dump mb or cpu


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## tigasport (Jun 18, 2014)

ne6togadno said:


> something is wrong with bios settings.
> add one ram stick and enter bios. load optimized defaults turn it off and add 2nd ram stick. if it still doesnt boot removes 2nd stick and go to memory settings (page 40 of mb manual found in mb box or http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_ga-z97(h97)-d3h_e.pdf).
> use profile 1 under xmp profiles
> leave everything else as it is. try add 2nd stick if still doesnt work try with xmp profile 2.
> ...



I did adjust ram settings in bios as well as many other options I tried, so many different things I tried that it would take forever to type all of it up in this reply. The bios has an auto feature that is suppose to automatically recognize the ram. It did recognize it, but only in the wrong slots. Hopefully NewEgg will take back the motherboard, processor and ram as I bought different types this time. http://pcpartpicker.com/p/dxZGnQ


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## ne6togadno (Jun 18, 2014)

strange situation
last time i had compability issuess with ram was on very old gigabyte mb when i was trying to run 3gb ram in dual channel. nither ram nor ram configuration was supported by mb but still it managed to recognize and run ram in dual channel and i even got some minor oc on ram&cpu.
anyway gz for new parts


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## tigasport (Jun 18, 2014)

ne6togadno said:


> strange situation
> last time i had compability issuess with ram was on very old gigabyte mb when i was trying to run 3gb ram in dual channel. nither ram nor ram configuration was supported by mb but still it managed to recognize and run ram in dual channel and i even got some minor oc on ram&cpu.
> anyway gz for new parts



There is so many different types of ram out their. I'm sure several that are not listed are still supported or will still work. There may even be kickbacks for motherboard companies to list other ram companies.


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