# Walk Through : Lapping Your HSF



## d44ve (Oct 2, 2007)

I was asked to repost this here in the cooling section.....



First pictures here is the block straight from Danger Den. As you can see there are scratches from the machining of the block. They look a lot worse in the pictures, when looking at it from a normal distance they would appear to just be slight scratches.












Next I started with a 1000 grit sandpaper. Some will start with an 800 grit and there is nothing wrong with it. The only reason why I don't go to 800 is that it is an extra step in the process and only needs to be used if there are serious defects on the surface. 

I wet sanded this block since it is just a block of copper. This honestly is a step you do not have to do. You can just sand it regularly, but I am anal when it comes to this kind of stuff.  Some people may want to not wet sand their CPU's. I personally have, but I used non conductive non corrosive lubricant. I have done it many times without any problems... but I would personally not recommend it for you, because I do not want to be responsible for any damage. I start by soaking the paper in water and then place it on my flat surface. I start sanding and it you start feeling it to give more and more resistance, just a little bit more water. Also, another good thing about wet sanding is that once the sand paper gets "worn" you can rinse it out and use it again.

Here are the pictures of the first pass with 1000 grit paper. As you can clearly see on the edges that this block was no where near level. This took me about 10 minutes



















Here is the second pass with 1000 grit paper. As you can see it is starting to get a bit more even through the middle, but still a long ways off. This took me about another 15 minutes.


















This is the third pass with 1000 grit sand paper. Getting closer, still not done yet. 
Time : 15 minutes



















And now this is the final pass with the 1000 grit sand paper. As you can see everything has evened out and after this is the easy part!








And now here I started with the 1500 grit sand paper, as you can see it is all starting to come together. This is the easy part. I spent about 20 minutes on this.














Now this is the pass with the 2000 grit sand paper. This is the highest I go, some people like to goto 2500 grit but to each their own. As you can see in the pictures there is only very fine scratches in the surface and already VERY reflective. This took me about 15 minutes.


















Now here what I did is I took your normal automotive *rubbing compound* and took the dremal with a polishing pad to it. This step isn't really needed. I just added this so people can see what they need to do to get it as shiny as possible and to get out all the super fine scratches

*NOTE : Do not use a POLISH. You want to use a rubbing compound. You can find this in the automotive body work section*


----------



## Hawk1 (Oct 2, 2007)

Excellent post d44ve. I'd like to vote for a sticky, since I don't see any lapping guides in this forum.


Edit: just saw wizzards in the article index, but would be nice to have a stickey right in the cooling forum.


----------



## JC316 (Oct 2, 2007)

Very nice writeup Dave, awesome work.


----------



## keakar (Oct 2, 2007)

*This should have a sticky*


----------



## pt (Oct 2, 2007)

i might try lapping a block someday


----------



## intel igent (Oct 4, 2007)

keakar said:


> *This should have a sticky*



agreed nice tutorial d44ve


----------



## cdawall (Oct 7, 2007)

very nice should add a guide for lapping IHS on cpu

i would include pics of the lapped 3400+ i got from AthlonX2 but dont have a camer that can take good pics right now


----------



## d44ve (Oct 7, 2007)

I think I have that thread somewhere on here too


----------



## panchoman (Oct 10, 2007)

sorry to ruin this thread d44ve, but.. http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=31579

why didn't you just have that one moved to this section rather then make 2 threads that are almost identical..


----------



## Athlon2K15 (Oct 10, 2007)

cdawall said:


> very nice should add a guide for lapping IHS on cpu
> 
> i would include pics of the lapped 3400+ i got from AthlonX2 but dont have a camer that can take good pics right now



that was pretty shiny wasnt it


----------



## keakar (Oct 10, 2007)

panchoman said:


> why didn't you just have that one moved to this section rather then make 2 threads that are almost identical..



its my fault, i suggested he repost it here because IMO it fits better in cooling section than in mod section

i also asked to get it a sticky here but w1zzard already had an article on lapping so they wont sticky it.


----------



## panchoman (Oct 10, 2007)

i meant, why didn't they just move the thread from the modding section to over here rather then have 2 threads with the same info.


----------



## cdawall (Oct 12, 2007)

AthlonX2 said:


> that was pretty shiny wasnt it



yep  great job


----------



## panchoman (Oct 12, 2007)

hey d44ve, care to tell us how much of a temp drop you got?


----------



## ex_reven (Oct 17, 2007)

One question.
What do you mean by first, second, third etc "passes"

It cant just be one rub. So is it a period of time of sanding the base, a stage of shinyness or what?


----------



## pt (Oct 17, 2007)

a diferent pass means a different grit


----------



## ex_reven (Oct 17, 2007)

pt said:


> a diferent pass means a different grit



No it doesnt.



> Here are the pictures of the *first pass* with *1000 grit* paper. As you can clearly see on the edges that this block was no where near level. This took me about 10 minutes





> Here is the *second pass* with *1000 grit* paper. As you can see it is starting to get a bit more even through the middle, but still a long ways off. This took me about another 15 minutes.


----------



## pt (Oct 17, 2007)

my bad
let's wait and see what d44ve says then


----------



## WhiteLotus (Nov 9, 2007)

how hard do you have to sand? lightly or hard, i mean if you took too much away would it really matter?


----------



## L|NK|N (Nov 9, 2007)

Its better to be moderate about the pressure, just let the sand paper do its job.  Its a helluva lot easier to take away than it is to add or fix a screw up.


----------



## Zedicus (Nov 9, 2007)

man if there are grooves or ridges that u can catch a finger nail in i start at like 400 or 600 grit.   especially on the cheeper heatsincs as the bottoms tend to be concave.    plus while it may be an extra grit to use it will actually lessen the time and work involved.

also be carefull not to rock the heatsink.   and about every 50 strokes across the paper spin it 1/4 turn.   and or make figure 8 patterns while sanding instead of just straigh up and back motions....


----------



## keakar (Nov 9, 2007)

ex_reven said:


> One question.
> What do you mean by first, second, third etc "passes"
> 
> It cant just be one rub. So is it a period of time of sanding the base, a stage of shinyness or what?



i believe the sandpaper is at its best for only the first 8 or 10 strokes so after that i will replace the sandpaper and switch sanding directions by 90 degrees.

i consider 2 sandings of 8 to 10 strokes in one direction then rotating your heatsink by 90 degrees and repeating for a total of 16 to 20 strokes alltogether is what makes up one "pass". it sometimes takes a few passes per grit size.

also do not push down on the heatsink when sanding or this can cause the surface to become uneven with rounded edges. just the weight of the heatsink and a slight downward pressure is enough. Rotating your heatsink by 90 degrees ensures that you achieve even surfacing as well as the added benefit of making it easy to see the progress you are making.


----------



## WarEagleAU (Nov 15, 2007)

D44ve you are a god at computers my friend. Thanks for this.


----------



## d44ve (Nov 15, 2007)

WarEagleAU said:


> D44ve you are a god at computers my friend. Thanks for this.




You are just saying that so I will sleep with you, arent you??

LOL


----------



## pt (Nov 15, 2007)

i think he is, and then steal your phasechange while you're sleeping


----------



## erocker (Feb 15, 2008)

This should be stickied!  Where has d44ve been?!  I miss that ol' clown.


----------



## Hawk1 (Feb 15, 2008)

erocker said:


> This should be stickied!  Where has d44ve been?!  I miss that ol' clown.




Agreed and was wondering the same thing. He was last here 02-05-08 but hasn't posted in a couple of months.


----------



## NONYA (Feb 15, 2008)

My idle temp came down from the mid 40s to 36 after lapping.


----------



## trog100 (Feb 15, 2008)

NONYA said:


> My idle temp came down from the mid 40s to 36 after lapping.



it should not make that much difference.. only if the two surfaces being lapped aint flat to start with or something else was wrong..

having said that it does seem intel dont try tooo hard to get their current cpu packages flat.. 

trog


----------



## mlee49 (Mar 5, 2008)

Good stuff here, bump+1 and sticky icky request!


----------



## GJSNeptune (Mar 5, 2008)

I'm getting a Tuniq Tower in a couple days. I've never lapped a heatsink before, and I don't really feel like it, but hopefully it'll be pretty smooth. Apparently they tend to be a little convex towards the center.


----------



## SirKeldon (Mar 5, 2008)

I lapped Thermaltake V1 two weeks ago, used 260-380-500-800-1200-2000 sandpapers and cheap polish solution, the results were pretty good, lowering the rpm's idle just downgraded 1ºC-3ºC, maybe the airflow ... i thought "what a mess", but since i've started Videora iPod converter and encode one video, WOW, 5º-7ºC less in every CPU constantly and with more Vcore 

Now i'm on water so if anyone is interested in a Thermaltake V1 lapped 4 weeks used PM me 

The final result of lapping:







ps: sorry about the quality, though it's a macro of Quickcam 9000 pro -carl zeiss- just let me make the photo on HD -video- mode, strange anyway


----------



## mlee49 (Mar 7, 2008)

I partially lapped my cpu and used some ceramique, dropped 5 degrees automatically!  Super easy process and totally worth doing.


----------



## pepsi71ocean (Mar 7, 2008)

I'm going to lap my cpu and hsf soon and I'm starting at 800 and ending with 1500, is 1500 good or should i go to 2,000?

The main reason is my cpu is very concave in shape, and my zamlan is almost flat, im looking to see a 5c drop maby more.


----------



## Oliver_FF (Apr 20, 2008)

bump for a great read


----------



## keakar (Aug 18, 2008)

keakar said:


> *This should have a sticky*


----------



## d44ve (Aug 26, 2008)

wow, this is still around?


----------



## [I.R.A]_FBi (Aug 26, 2008)

he's back!


----------



## d44ve (Aug 26, 2008)

[I.R.A]_FBi said:


> he's back!



LOL, yes.... I was gone for awhile. But I am back


----------



## DonInKansas (Aug 26, 2008)

Maybe his avatar gives a reason why he was away?


----------



## [I.R.A]_FBi (Aug 26, 2008)

d44ve said:


> LOL, yes.... I was gone for awhile. But I am back




How are the smokes on the inside?


----------



## d44ve (Aug 26, 2008)

[I.R.A]_FBi said:


> How are the smokes on the inside?



exspensive! LOL


----------



## Kursah (Aug 26, 2008)

Welcome back d44ve!


----------



## CrAsHnBuRnXp (Aug 26, 2008)

Holy hell man! Glad to see you back. 



I just had 5 shots of rum. Wanna hit 5 more with me?


----------



## JC316 (Aug 26, 2008)

How are you supposed to lap a 775 push pin based cooler? You cant take the pins off, so you cant get level. I would like to lap my Freezer Pro 7, but cant.


----------



## d44ve (Sep 7, 2008)

JC316 said:


> How are you supposed to lap a 775 push pin based cooler? You cant take the pins off, so you cant get level. I would like to lap my Freezer Pro 7, but cant.



Take some pictures of it.... let me think about it for a bit. I am sure we can do this


----------



## intel igent (Sep 7, 2008)

[I.R.A]_FBi said:


> he's back!



he never left!

that's the beauty of the internets.....


----------



## JC316 (Sep 7, 2008)

d44ve said:


> Take some pictures of it.... let me think about it for a bit. I am sure we can do this



Will do Dave, thanks. In the mean time, here is a newegg picture of the bottom. http://www.newegg.com/Product/ShowI...=ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro 92mm CPU Cooler

Edit:
Oh and BTW, I have good skills and a garage full of tools that I have at my disposal.


----------



## Steevo (Oct 26, 2008)

Good info, and yes it almost is a nights work to do a CPU and HS/F right.



I used it to lap my 3800 X2 and the heatsink on my glass breakfast table. the wife freaked about the low odor (yeah right) mineral spirits and me sanding on the table but it worked well, and she even sat and watched for a few minutes and was impressed with how well it worked, and of course how shiny it was. I used mothers aluminum wheel polish and the back side of a worn piece of sandpaper to finish them both. After a application and pull of I found that there was still a bit more TIM left than I wanted, so I went back and added a minor convex edge to both the Arctic Cooler and the CPU and that allowed almost a perfect fit.


----------



## theJesus (Oct 26, 2008)

wow, I'm bookmarking this.  I love how simple and to-the-point this guide is.  Now if only I had sand paper (or money)


----------



## _jM (Nov 24, 2008)

Hey Dave, Great post bro. Should be a sticky. I was just talking about lapping and wanting someone to make a post just like this one. Its perfect, just like theJesus said.. im bookmarking this!


----------



## Hayder_Master (Nov 24, 2008)

nice work , and where you got this block


----------



## Skywalker12345 (Dec 11, 2008)

could i do t5his to my CPU cooler? or is it pointless?


----------



## silkstone (Dec 11, 2008)

Nice post. I would also recommend only wet sanding for 2 reasons. 1) you avoid getting metal dust blowing everywhere 2) It stops particles from the sandpaper becoming embedded in the hs/ihs which is detrimental to thermal conductivity.
I would also say it's pretty safe to start with a higher grit sandpaper (I used 400) and you should "lap" for 2wice the amount of time for each grit change to full remove the previous scratches.
Anyway, this is my advice even if i didn't follow it. i dry sanded the first run with 400, then i used beer as a lubricant for the final 400grit lap and the prior 'laps' up to 1000grit.
You might also want to check it's flat with a razors edge before you finish.


----------



## silkstone (Dec 11, 2008)

lucasweir said:


> could i do t5his to my CPU cooler? or is it pointless?



Check if your hsf is flat or not first, if it's pretty flat then it's pointless, if it's convex it's pointless (as the ihs on your chip will be concave) if it's convex then you should lap it


----------



## Skywalker12345 (Dec 11, 2008)

so which picture would i want to do it to?


----------



## theJesus (Dec 11, 2008)

Bottom, I believe.  Actually, I think bottom would be preferable to top. (that's what she said).

-Cooler:  --___--
----IHS: __----__

^ That way, there is contact in the middle for sure.

-Cooler: __----__
----IHS: __----__

^ That way, you can't be sure how much contact there is, because one surface will probably be a little more convex or concave than the other.  That would probably introduce air pockets.

Conclusion:  I would leave it alone if it's like my first example, unless the surface is scratched a lot.  My second example, you would probably want to lap.  Of course, there's a chance the cooler was designed to "fit" the curve of an IHS, although I would think that not all IHS are exactly the same.


----------



## silkstone (Dec 11, 2008)

lucasweir said:


> so which picture would i want to do it to?



If it looked like either you would want to do it 

But the picture on top is concave - Would need lapping.
The one below is convex, you wouldn;t need to lapp a convex hsf unless you also lapped your CPU.


----------



## silkstone (Dec 11, 2008)

theJesus said:


> Bottom, I believe.



No the bottom is convex, some hsf manufacturers make the HS's slightly convex for a better fit with the CPU which is always slightly concave.

(Man, too many con's in here)


----------



## theJesus (Dec 11, 2008)

Yeah, I just edited my post, I was thinking backwards.


----------



## d44ve (Jan 24, 2009)

wow... this post is still going!!


----------



## intel igent (Jan 24, 2009)

d44ve said:


> wow... this post is still going!!



WOW! you're still hiding!


----------



## Thermopylae_480 (Jan 24, 2009)

Stickied.


----------



## crtecha (Feb 6, 2009)

Great Job dude.  I think I may try it on a old cooler first to get some practice.  Awesome sticky


----------



## d44ve (Feb 10, 2009)

Thanks for the sticky.....

If you guys want this done for ya and can afford a few days down time... I will be more than happy to do it for you.


----------



## CrAsHnBuRnXp (Feb 10, 2009)

d44ve said:


> Thanks for the sticky.....
> 
> If you guys want this done for ya and can afford a few days down time... I will be more than happy to do it for you.



OMG...your alive! 

Where the hell have you been man? I remember your return then you just disappeared again.


----------



## d44ve (Feb 11, 2009)

CrAsHnBuRnXp said:


> OMG...your alive!
> 
> Where the hell have you been man? I remember your return then you just disappeared again.




Been around... still watching the boards, just stop being a post whore! LOL


----------



## CrAsHnBuRnXp (Feb 11, 2009)

So your the reason that smell went away. 

Just kidding man.


----------



## silkstone (Feb 14, 2009)

d44ve said:


> Thanks for the sticky.....
> 
> If you guys want this done for ya and can afford a few days down time... I will be more than happy to do it for you.



Nice of you to offer to do it for other members, but i would advise you to let them do it themselves. Too many things to worry about e.g. getting lost or damaged in post and other stuff you wouldn;t want to be responsible for.

If anyone is thinking of doing this but nervous about doing so i would advise them to practise either on an old cpu first or try it with their heatsink. once they are comfortable give the cpu a go.

I't really quite safe, just don't drop it (like i did, lol) and to wipe it down after to get rid of any metallic dust or water and greese (from fingers or wet-sanding)

If anyone is feeling more confident then alternately you could remove the IHS altogether, just not on an i7 as they are soldered on! However this is a lot more risky for obvious reasons.


----------



## CrAsHnBuRnXp (Feb 14, 2009)

silkstone said:


> Nice of you to offer to do it for other members, but i would advise you to let them do it themselves. Too many things to worry about e.g. getting lost or damaged in post and other stuff you wouldn;t want to be responsible for.



It has the same dangers as buying from another member really. Not any different.


----------



## spearman914 (Feb 15, 2009)

Good job, keep up the good work!!


----------



## d44ve (Feb 18, 2009)

silkstone said:


> Nice of you to offer to do it for other members, but i would advise you to let them do it themselves. Too many things to worry about e.g. getting lost or damaged in post and other stuff you wouldn;t want to be responsible for.
> 
> If anyone is thinking of doing this but nervous about doing so i would advise them to practise either on an old cpu first or try it with their heatsink. once they are comfortable give the cpu a go.
> 
> ...




I am only offering a service.... people dont want to take the risk or are scared they might drop it ect ect. I have done a ton of these and just letting people know that I am willing to do it for them if they dont want to do it


----------



## Haytch (Feb 21, 2009)

Patience is the key.


----------



## silkstone (Feb 21, 2009)

d44ve said:


> I am only offering a service.... people dont want to take the risk or are scared they might drop it ect ect. I have done a ton of these and just letting people know that I am willing to do it for them if they dont want to do it



I'm not warning anyone off it. thought you were offereing it free, so is a risk to you, is all. I was trying to say it's overly nice of you to offer to do it for other forum members seeing as you have nothing to gain


----------



## PVTCaboose1337 (Feb 21, 2009)

Very nice guide.  I follow a very similar process.


----------



## vladmire (Apr 3, 2009)

it's better than the machine's job of lapping it.


----------



## Adrienspawn (Apr 26, 2009)

Just so people know, lapping is more about making it flat than shiny. You can use up to just 600 grit and it will perform as well as 3500 grit. You can have a mirror surface, but it doesn't mean its flat. Make sure to lap on glass or a really flat surface. Not sure if its been said already, just thought I'd mention it


----------



## mike047 (Apr 26, 2009)

This is what I use for a flat lapping surface. They have free shipping occasionally.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/9-x-12-Granite-Plate-No-Ledge-2-Thick/G9649

I use these Without holes for the Arctic coolers.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=24520399&PMAKA=SM240-0369


----------



## Adrienspawn (Apr 26, 2009)

mike047 said:


> This is what I use for a flat lapping surface. They have free shipping occasionally.
> 
> http://www.grizzly.com/products/9-x-12-Granite-Plate-No-Ledge-2-Thick/G9649
> 
> ...



When I think granite I think roads lol. You sure that's really flat, not a bit rough like the lapping paper? Is has to be flat _and_ smooth. 

But from the pics it looks smooth.


----------



## DreamSeller (Jun 1, 2009)

how do i do this to the cpu i mean can't the pins get bent while doing it ? :-s


----------



## mike047 (Jun 1, 2009)

Adrienspawn said:


> When I think granite I think roads lol. You sure that's really flat, not a bit rough like the lapping paper? Is has to be flat _and_ smooth.
> 
> But from the pics it looks smooth.



Normally "granite" plates are used for inspection purposes in machine shops, fabrication labs, etc.

They are graded by flatness;
http://www.angrave.com/catalog/SurfacePlates.html

Those are inexpensive so I would guess that they are withing .0001[or less] flatness all over[ a human hair is .003-.004 thick.  The surface finish[roughness] is a smooth as the proverbial baby's butt.

I have as part of my trade as a toolmaker used surface plates for nearly 40 years and I'll tell you they are "flatter" and smoother than your lap jobs.


----------



## mike047 (Jun 1, 2009)

DreamSeller said:


> how do i do this to the cpu i mean can't the pins get bent while doing it ? :-s



If your cpu has pins, place the black foam from your packaging on the pins to protect them...don't get brutal with it and you should have no problem.


----------



## DreamSeller (Jun 1, 2009)

mike047 said:


> If your cpu has pins, place the black foam from your packaging on the pins to protect them...don't get brutal with it and you should have no problem.



thanks  i'll give it a try tonight )


----------



## Bo_Fox (Jan 15, 2010)

There are plenty of lapping videos on Youtube.  Just type in TRUE lapping or something like that.  A video really helped me lap my IFX-14..  whew my hands almost gave out with several cuts even after wearing gloves (took over 1 hour).


----------



## sneekypeet (Feb 7, 2010)

Had a bit of time and I figured my i7 860 could use a bit of a lap job since I got it used.

Original candidate:






About 5-10 minutes with 600 grit to level the field (bit round in the middle):





About the same time on 800 grit:





1000:





1500:





I missed the 2000 grit image in excitement of polishing it a bit

reflection on my work:





What's it worth? so far with a higher ambient temperature (32 degrees in the case versus the 29 I tested it in before I lapped it), tests show a 3-4 degree drop across all 4 cores under Prime95 for 30 minutes.


----------



## p_o_s_pc (Feb 7, 2010)

I did this awhile ago so its kinda older(about a year ago) this is 2k grit polished with rubbing compound and then shined with lemon juice (heard that worked) then cleaned with 70% alcohol 
I don't even remember what CPU is what but one is a X2 5kBE the other is a X2 4850e








this one i know is the 5kBE


----------



## Cold Storm (Feb 7, 2010)

great step-by-step Sneeky. 


Pos, that's good work man!


----------



## copenhagen69 (Feb 7, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> Had a bit of time and I figured my i7 860 could use a bit of a lap job since I got it used.
> 
> Original candidate:
> http://img.techpowerup.org/100207/DSC01773.jpg
> ...




very nice job!
how long overall did it take you? about 10 mins for each grit?


----------



## sneekypeet (Feb 7, 2010)

yup just over an hour to get from the first image to the last


----------



## copenhagen69 (Feb 7, 2010)

thats not bad at all for a 3-4c drop ... ive spent a lot more time on less of a drop haha


----------



## Taz100420 (Mar 19, 2010)

p_o_s_pc said:


> I did this awhile ago so its kinda older(about a year ago) this is 2k grit polished with rubbing compound and then shined with lemon juice (heard that worked) then cleaned with 70% alcohol
> I don't even remember what CPU is what but one is a X2 5kBE the other is a X2 4850e
> http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u88/p_o_s_pc/S5030835.jpg
> http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u88/p_o_s_pc/S5030836-1.jpg
> ...



Makes me wanna lap my 5000+BE....and maybe finish the shine job on my heatsink. I have an aluminum heatsink and I took some 500 grit to it and got most the machine lines out and hit it with 1000 to get it smooth and even the took the 0000 steel wool and smoothed it out. I thought I had some 1500 and 2000 grit but it was used on the motorcycle sadly so I had to work with what I had left lol Temps are about 5F-10F cooler on load


----------



## p_o_s_pc (Mar 19, 2010)

Taz100420 said:


> Makes me wanna lap my 5000+BE....and maybe finish the shine job on my heatsink. I have an aluminum heatsink and I took some 500 grit to it and got most the machine lines out and hit it with 1000 to get it smooth and even the took the 0000 steel wool and smoothed it out. I thought I had some 1500 and 2000 grit but it was used on the motorcycle sadly so I had to work with what I had left lol Temps are about 5F-10F cooler on load



Go for it man.. Just be careful that you don't bend the pins. Its really easy to bend them


----------



## Taz100420 (Mar 20, 2010)

p_o_s_pc said:


> Go for it man.. Just be careful that you don't bend the pins. Its really easy to bend them



I have a old dead AM2 mobo that I can cut the socket out of so it protects the pins while sanding


----------



## erixx (Jan 15, 2011)

Noctua website says that with nowadays 'sticky' thermal grease, lapping is not needed. I believe they know their stuff. If this is true, maybe this can be un-stickied to start evangelizing to not lap anymore?


----------



## silkstone (Jan 15, 2011)

sticky thermal grease wouldn't stop the cpu being convex/concave.


----------



## erixx (Jan 15, 2011)

good issue, but rare, rarisimo i would say


----------



## silkstone (Jan 16, 2011)

I'm sure what you read is referring to lapping the HSF, which with the quality of some of the higher end HSFs isn;t needed anyway. But there is a lot of useful information about CPU lapping. Which while isn't needed, really does help with temps.


----------



## user21 (Jun 10, 2011)

this is gud, how much time did you took to finish up ??


----------

