# Computer is turns on and off repeatedly



## Paladone (Dec 24, 2013)

Hey guys,

So I just got a new case, and once I had transferred everything over, I was unable to boot up the PC properly. When I first booted up, I smelt something like burning rubber, and immediately pulled the power. Now when I turn it on, it simply shuts down immediately and then repeats about 5 seconds later. When this happens, I can hear what sounds like a click coming from the power supply.

So far I have tried taking each individual part out and testing them separately. I even disconnected all the fans, and when I removed all of the RAM and attempted to boot up, there was no beeping noise. I have even used different power supply cables in different power sockets and I ensured every connection was secure. 

I made sure that the Power SW, Reset SW and HDD LED where all in the correct place, I then did also remove them and attempted a manual start up; same issue.

As suggested, I connected a paperclip to the PSU to Motherboard power cable, with one end at black and the other at green. When I then booted up, the fans stayed on until I pulled the power. 

Thanks, I really appreciate the help I have been given so far.


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## FreedomEclipse (Dec 24, 2013)

turns itself on an off repeatedly??? Sounds like a job for an exorcist~ grab your nearest bible and start chanting for the evil spirit to go towards the light.

------
Otherwise.

Have you tried inspecting your hardware for the source of the burning smell? Something could be fried. If you smell burning its usually not very wise to keep powering the machine on and off cuz if the PSU is unstable and its the overcurrent protection thats kicking in and turning the PC off then you risk frying anything and everything connected to your PSU, All it takes is that burst of high voltage and youre looking at an RMA or buying a new PC.

Strip everything out, find the source of the burning smell and inspect the hardware - especially the motherboard for black marks on the PCB where something could have fried.


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## Paladone (Dec 24, 2013)

FreedomEclipse said:


> turns itself on an off repeatedly??? Sounds like a job for an exorcist~ grab your nearest bible and start chanting for the evil spirit to go towards the light.
> 
> ------
> Otherwise.
> ...


I will do that now. Originally I had thought that it was coming from a fan but I am not sure now.


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## FreedomEclipse (Dec 24, 2013)

Check the fans too - You wont know what it is thats burnt or blown out,

If you have a spare power supply handy - try using that to 'dry test' the parts outside of the case, It can be a lot of effort but you need to isolate the problem and correct it otherwise you aint ever gonna get your PC running again.

Anything thats connected to the board can potentially cause the overvoltage protection in the PSU to kick in if its damaged. so check any expansion cards you may have plugged in, GPUs, Video Capture cards, Network Cards, Soundcards etc, check'em all.

You might think its a little OTT but thats how it all works, fried caps or resistors in any hardware can potentially trigger an outage/O.C.P because the electrical circuit isnt complete ~yadayadayada.


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## Paladone (Dec 24, 2013)

FreedomEclipse said:


> Check the fans too - You wont know what it is thats burnt or blown out,
> 
> If you have a spare power supply handy - try using that to 'dry test' the parts outside of the case, It can be a lot of effort but you need to isolate the problem and correct it otherwise you aint ever gonna get your PC running again.
> 
> ...


I carefully inspected everything and I cannot see any marks, however, the primary graphics card and power sw, reset sw and HDD led headers do smell of what I smelt earlier.

I believe that what I may have done was plug a fan LED connector into the headers on the motherboard and this may have fried the headers, i can't work out why the primary card smells though


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## FreedomEclipse (Dec 24, 2013)

Paladone said:


> I carefully inspected everything and I cannot see any marks, however, the primary graphics card and power sw, reset sw and HDD led headers do smell of what I smelt earlier.
> 
> I believe that what I may have done was plug a fan LED connector into the headers on the motherboard and this may have fried the headers, i can't work out why the primary card smells though




I did something similar to this once with a real old power supply - I ended up melting the plastic around the cables and it was extremely hot to touch.

If its not too much trouble, take the PSU out of the case if you havent already done so and try to put the system together outside of the case for a dry run.

Dont attach or plug anything into the headers but use a small flathead screwdriver to trip the board into powering up. all you need for starters & test purposes are just the CPU, GPU & PSU hooked up. everything else can wait but you need to establish if the GPU is faulty since you said it smells funny.


If nothing comes on screen try testing the setup with another graphics card if you can borrow one from a friend or get one dirt cheap - It doesnt matter what it is so long as its PCI-Ex and is in working condition - All you need to see is something come up on screen when you power the system up.

If nothing comes on screen even if you switch the GPU with another then unfortunately the board has gone kaput and theres not much you can do about it.


::EDIT::

Oh and try clearing CMOS if nothing comes up screen


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## Paladone (Dec 24, 2013)

FreedomEclipse said:


> I did something similar to this once with a real old power supply - I ended up melting the plastic around the cables and it was extremely hot to touch.
> 
> If its not too much trouble, take the PSU out of the case if you havent already done so and try to put the system together outside of the case for a dry run.
> 
> ...


I tried 3 different GPUs and the same thing was happening, boot up then shut down and nothing comes up on the screen. 

How do i clear the cmos?


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## FreedomEclipse (Dec 24, 2013)

Does the PSU  trip automatically or do you turn off at mains?

Theres usually a set of jumpers on the board you can switch to reset the bios if not totally unplug the power, and remove the battery from the motherboard that looks like this







Unplug the power and leave the battery out for at least 5mins then plug it back in, and try again.


If this doesnt work then its most likely that the board is totally fried - even though voltage is running through it and it starts up some of the components on it are dead.


Also. What are the pc specs btw? It might be that your power supply is too weak to power the system and has caused it to overload


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## Paladone (Dec 24, 2013)

FreedomEclipse said:


> Does the PSU  trip automatically or do you turn off at mains?
> 
> Theres usually a set of jumpers on the board you can switch to reset the bios if not totally unplug the power, and remove the battery from the motherboard that looks like this
> 
> ...



It boots up then shuts down by itself, all i do is turn it on and it repeats the process until i pull the power.
I have:
I7 3770k with a h100i, oced at 4.7 Ghz
32GB DDR3 RAM at 2400 Mhz
128GB samsung 840 pro, 750GB samsung 840 evo
1TB WDCB
Matrix HD7970
HD7990
2 LED 200mm fans
2 LED 140mm fans
3 120 mm fans

All in a phantom 820 case with a corsair HX 1050 80 plus gold PSU
The motherboard is an Asus maximus formula v eATX motherboard.


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## FreedomEclipse (Dec 24, 2013)

Well, if clearing the Cmos doesnt work, then the board is gone. you will need to RMA it. you might also want to RMA the PSU as well to be on the safe side. Even though overcurrent protection kicks in and shuts the system down. having the system turn on and off so many times especially when something is fried that triggering overcurrent protection to kick in is not good for it. And I know it aint because I had the exact same thing happen with an Antec PSU and that PSU ended up killing 2 4870s before i replaced it.

If the parts are new, the retailer should accept both the board & PSU for RMA, However if they dont take the PSU then we have a corsair rep lurking around here who im sure will be more than happy to step in and help if things get tough.


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## Paladone (Dec 24, 2013)

FreedomEclipse said:


> Well, if clearing the Cmos doesnt work, then the board is gone. you will need to RMA it. you might also want to RMA the PSU as well to be on the safe side. Even though overcurrent protection kicks in and shuts the system down. having the system turn on and off so many times especially when something is fried that triggering overcurrent protection to kick in is not good for it. And I know it aint because I had the exact same thing happen with an Antec PSU and that PSU ended up killing 2 4870s before i replaced it.
> 
> If the parts are new, the retailer should accept both the board & PSU for RMA, However if they dont take the PSU then we have a corsair rep lurking around here who im sure will be more than happy to step in and help if things get tough.


Thanks, i really appreciate your help. I was given an estimated wait time of 10-12 weeks to RMA the mobo which will just not work. I guess I will just have buy a new one and sell the asus if they replace it. 

As for the psu, i believe i can still return it to the store from which i bought it ad i purchased an extended warranty on all parts (knowing i would do something stupid ). Unfortunately they no longer stock the motherboard though.


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## FreedomEclipse (Dec 24, 2013)

Also on second thoughts you might wanna try getting a PSU with a little more umph. AMD Recommends 750w for a single 7990 & 500w for a single 7970. 750+500= 1250w and thats just for graphic cards alone. 7990 doesnt just drink, it guzzles.

Units to look at are Silverstone Strider 1500w or a 1500w from any of the Enermax range.


In all honesty, its probably best to sell off the 7990 and get another 7970 or sell all for a 290x in crossfire If you still wanna be on the Xtreme side of things


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## Paladone (Dec 24, 2013)

I


FreedomEclipse said:


> Also on second thoughts you might wanna try getting a PSU with a little more umph. AMD Recommends 750w for a single 7990 & 500w for a single 7970. 750+500= 1250w and thats just for graphic cards alone. 7990 doesnt just drink, it guzzles.
> 
> Units to look at are Silverstone Strider 1500w or a 1500w from any of the Enermax range.
> 
> ...


I actually have 2 7970s and a 7990, do you think i should sell a 7990 and 7970 and get 2 290x's?

EDIT: also, where would you recommend selling them?


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## FreedomEclipse (Dec 24, 2013)

Lol, You werent trying to run all 3 cards at once were you? If thats the case then its no wonder the PSU is tripping.

what res do you game at and how many monitors do you run? If you game at 1080p then a 290x is overkill. two 7970s are still great for most things and a 1050w or 1200w can easily power your system. even 290Xs in crossfire can be power by a 1000w PSU.


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## Paladone (Dec 24, 2013)

FreedomEclipse said:


> Lol, You werent trying to run all 3 cards at once were you? If thats the case then its no wonder the PSU is tripping.
> 
> what res do you game at and how many monitors do you run? If you game at 1080p then a 290x is overkill. two 7970s are still great for most things and a 1050w or 1200w can easily power your system. even 290Xs in crossfire can be power by a 1000w PSU.



Hahaha no I wasn't trying to run all 3 xD
I run 3 1080p monitors


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## FreedomEclipse (Dec 24, 2013)

Im no expert on multi-monitor gaming setups but a single 290X should be able to power 3 monitors. You might need to turn AA down if not off completely in a few games but I dont see why it cant run 3 monitors well.

If money is no object then why the hell not crossfire providing you can put up with AMDs driver issues when it comes to crossfire.


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## Paladone (Dec 24, 2013)

FreedomEclipse said:


> Im no expert on multi-monitor gaming setups but a single 290X should be able to power 3 monitors. You might need to turn AA down if not off completely in a few games but I dont see why it cant run 3 monitors well.
> 
> If money is no object then why the hell not crossfire providing you can put up with AMDs driver issues when it comes to crossfire.



Haha yeah I am well used to crossfire issues. Do you think I would actually get anything for a second hand 7990 (barely even used) and if so, would it be best to sell on ebay?


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## FreedomEclipse (Dec 24, 2013)

Id say you could possibly get decent money for it. The card is still a beast, definitely more powerful then a single 290X, no doubt about it.

You could sell it on ebay or post it up in the TPU classifieds section and see if anyone wants. Someone will definitely want it, maybe put a waterblock on it and have it farm bitcoins like no tomorrow.


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## Paladone (Dec 24, 2013)

FreedomEclipse said:


> Id say you could possibly get decent money for it. The card is still a beast, definitely more powerful then a single 290X, no doubt about it.
> 
> You could sell it on ebay or post it up in the TPU classifieds section and see if anyone wants. Someone will definitely want it, maybe put a waterblock on it and have it farm bitcoins like no tomorrow.



Ah true xD

Where about is the classifieds section?


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## FreedomEclipse (Dec 24, 2013)

Paladone said:


> Ah true xD
> 
> Where about is the classifieds section?



--->Here<---

Read the rules before you post there though or the mods will lock your thread.


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## Paladone (Dec 24, 2013)

FreedomEclipse said:


> --->Here<---
> 
> Read the rules before you post there though or the mods will lock your thread.



I feel like it would be easier for me to sell it on Ebay as I have done so with other items in the past and have good feedback. What I don't understand though is why there are no listings under $1250 and several above $2000, when I bought mine for $899. For example this - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VTX3D-Ra...PCC_Video_TV_Cards&hash=item338567aa89&_uhb=1

Seeing these fluctuations in price make me want to list it for something cheeky, but knowing what I paid for it, I know it should list it for a reasonable price. Say If you were looking for a second hand 7990, what do you think would be a reasonable price?


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## micropage7 (Dec 24, 2013)

Paladone said:


> I feel like it would be easier for me to sell it on Ebay as I have done so with other items in the past and have good feedback. What I don't understand though is why there are no listings under $1250 and several above $2000, when I bought mine for $899. For example this - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VTX3D-Ra...PCC_Video_TV_Cards&hash=item338567aa89&_uhb=1
> 
> Seeing these fluctuations in price make me want to list it for something cheeky, but knowing what I paid for it, I know it should list it for a reasonable price. Say If you were looking for a second hand 7990, what do you think would be a reasonable price?



usually its about 25% to 40% from new price  ($899 >> $650 maybe) but it depends on the package, like box, driver and other accessories


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## Paladone (Dec 24, 2013)

micropage7 said:


> usually its about 25% to 40% from new price  ($899 >> $650 maybe) but it depends on the package, like box, driver and other accessories



ahh right. I do Have the original box, minus the packaging. I also have the power pins, crossfire cable, CD with drivers and the manual.  I geuss I'll try it at 600-650. Thanks


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## MxPhenom 216 (Dec 24, 2013)

Sounds to me like you have a short. You used the standoffs for the motherboard right?


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## itsakjt (Dec 24, 2013)

While transferring the setup to the new chassis, you sure that you used jump offs where necessary and used the board risers?


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## micropage7 (Dec 24, 2013)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Sounds to me like you have a short. You used the standoffs for the motherboard right?



could short, maybe try to take the board off from the case and test it.
just to make sure and you can inspect the board for more, you may miss something


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## MxPhenom 216 (Dec 24, 2013)

micropage7 said:


> could short, maybe try to take the board off from the case and test it.
> just to make sure and you can inspect the board for more, you may miss something



Also an extra stand off or something being where it shouldn't can short a board.


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## Paladone (Dec 24, 2013)

I assumed that the stand offs where the little risen metal things built into the case that elevate the motherboard. If they aren't what do they look like and where should they be? 

I tested the motherboard cpu, psu and gpu out of the case with nothing else attached and I continued to have the issue.


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## the54thvoid (Dec 24, 2013)

Your mobo has LED indicators for which state of POST it is in.  If you say the shutdown happens after 5 seconds, that implies it is going through stages of operation, otherwise it would reset within a second or so.  Check your LED POST read out from the motherboard and check it against the manual to see what stage the process is in when it resets.


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## Paladone (Dec 24, 2013)

Paladone said:


> I assumed that the stand offs where the little risen metal things in the case that elevate the motherboard. If they aren't what do they look like and where should they be?
> 
> I tested the motherboard cpu, psu and gpu out of the case with nothing else attached and I continued to have the issue.





MxPhenom 216 said:


> Also an extra stand off or something being where it shouldn't can short a board.


 
I believe that the reason it's happening is because I accidentally connected 3 fan LED connectors into the Power SW/reset SW headers *Facepalm* haha


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## Paladone (Dec 24, 2013)

the54thvoid said:


> Your mobo has LED indicators for which state of POST it is in.  If you say the shutdown happens after 5 seconds, that implies it is going through stages of operation, otherwise it would reset within a second or so.  Check your LED POST read out from the motherboard and check it against the manual to see what stage the process is in when it resets.



Is this the LED POST? https://www.google.com.au/search?q=...7.ws%2F820-6776%2Fgigjf%2Findex.html;1008;632

If so, there is nothing displayed on it all, throughout the entire process of start up and shut down.


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## Paladone (Dec 24, 2013)

itsakjt said:


> While transferring the setup to the new chassis, you sure that you used jump offs where necessary and used the board risers?



I transferred exactly what was in my old case to the new. I don't think I even had any Jumpers to begin with.


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## the54thvoid (Dec 24, 2013)

Paladone said:


> Is this the LED POST? https://www.google.com.au/search?q=LED POST on a motherboard&espv=210&es_sm=93&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=aGO5UrSWO8XqlAXy74CwDg&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=922#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=pJc4i7KSFvA5fM:;kJbXE_AqIoiUJM;http%3A%2F%2Fdocs.oracle.com%2Fcd%2FE19127-01%2Fultra27.ws%2F820-6776%2Fimages%2F126244.gif;http%3A%2F%2Fdocs.oracle.com%2Fcd%2FE19127-01%2Fultra27.ws%2F820-6776%2Fgigjf%2Findex.html;1008;632
> 
> If so, there is nothing displayed on it all, throughout the entire process of start up and shut down.



Okay, if that doesn''t even light up your motherboard is more than likely either 
A) not receiving any power.
B) dead


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## the54thvoid (Dec 24, 2013)

Sorry for double post....

Also, if the machine is plugged in but not yet 'powered up' this light should be on?  That will be on to say there is a power supply attached to your motherboard and is in 'standby' ready to switch on.  If this light is not lit up, the PSU is not supplying power to the motherboard (could be dead mobo or problem with 24pin ATX area?)


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## Paladone (Dec 24, 2013)

the54thvoid said:


> Sorry for double post....
> 
> Also, if the machine is plugged in but not yet 'powered up' this light should be on?  That will be on to say there is a power supply attached to your motherboard and is in 'standby' ready to switch on.  If this light is not lit up, the PSU is not supplying power to the motherboard (could be dead mobo or problem with 24pin ATX area?)



Ah yes, that does still light up.


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## the54thvoid (Dec 24, 2013)

Paladone said:


> Ah yes, that does still light up.



And you have disconnected the 'Power SW' and 'Reset SW' cables that come from the case and tried using that button to power it up? Sure you tried that already.

Okay, so power is getting to mobo but mobo wont post at all = mobo is faulty.  Check the 24 ATX pins on the motherboard, in case there is any obvious problem (bent or broken pin etc).

Otherwise, I'm out - I'd call it a motherboard defect or damage.  Only way to tell is get a replacement motherboard.


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## Paladone (Dec 24, 2013)

the54thvoid said:


> And you have disconnected the 'Power SW' and 'Reset SW' cables that come from the case and tried using that button to power it up? Sure you tried that already.
> 
> Okay, so power is getting to mobo but mobo wont post at all = mobo is faulty.  Check the 24 ATX pins on the motherboard, in case there is any obvious problem (bent or broken pin etc).
> 
> Otherwise, I'm out - I'd call it a motherboard defect or damage.  Only way to tell is get a replacement motherboard.



Yeah I think it must be motherboard, I'll probably just buy a new one and sell the replacement if Asus replaces it. Thanks for your help by the way 

EDIT: I actually just posted my 7990 for $650 on ebay and it sold instantly. So I now have money to spent. Seeing as I really just play World of Warcraft for the most part and AMD cards are so crap with WoW, what would you recommend between dual 780/titan/690?


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## the54thvoid (Dec 24, 2013)

Don't waste money on Titan (i have one btw). I'd consider a 780ti, maybe even a Classified one from Evga or maybe a custom 290x.


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## micropage7 (Dec 24, 2013)

Paladone said:


> Yeah I think it must be motherboard, I'll probably just buy a new one and sell the replacement if Asus replaces it. Thanks for your help by the way
> 
> EDIT: I actually just posted my 7990 for $650 on ebay and it sold instantly. So I now have money to spent. Seeing as I really just play World of Warcraft for the most part and AMD cards are so crap with WoW, what would you recommend between dual 780/titan/690?



780 or 780 ti would be good but return to what you need, like resolution?


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## Paladone (Dec 24, 2013)

micropage7 said:


> 780 or 780 ti would be good but return to what you need, like resolution?


Well I run 3 1080p monitors, 1 is 120hz and the other two are 60hz.

What do you think about this card? - https://www.ple.com.au/ViewItem.aspx?InventoryItemID=613774&CategoryID=467

EDIT: I also heard somewhere that you can only run 2 monitors on a single Nvidia card, is that true?


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## TheMailMan78 (Dec 24, 2013)

Do you live on an Indian burial ground by chance?


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## micropage7 (Dec 24, 2013)

Paladone said:


> Well I run 3 1080p monitors, 1 is 120hz and the other two are 60hz.
> 
> What do you think about this card? - https://www.ple.com.au/ViewItem.aspx?InventoryItemID=613774&CategoryID=467
> 
> EDIT: I also heard somewhere that you can only run 2 monitors on a single Nvidia card, is that true?



not like that, even mid range card now support multiple displays
http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-780/specifications


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## FreedomEclipse (Dec 24, 2013)

Paladone said:


> EDIT: I actually just posted my 7990 for $650 on ebay and it sold instantly. So I now have money to spent. Seeing as I really just play World of Warcraft for the most part and AMD cards are so crap with WoW, what would you recommend between dual 780/titan/690?



You let it go too cheaply IMO, a 7990 still retails for $1000 on NCIX, I bet you could have charged $800 and someone still would have bought it as its in brand new condition.


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## Paladone (Dec 24, 2013)

TheMailMan78 said:


> Do you live on an Indian burial ground by chance?



Hahahahaha nah, just Western Australia. If you're referring to the prices, then yeah it's stupid. I just went on a trip to the states. The price gap between electronics isn't so bad, but everything else is just a joke xD


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## Paladone (Dec 24, 2013)

FreedomEclipse said:


> You let it go too cheaply IMO, a 7990 still retails for $1000 on NCIX, I bet you could have charged $800 and someone still would have bought it as its in brand new condition.



Yeah you are probably right, I did buy it for like $800 though so I'm not too dissapointed.


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## FreedomEclipse (Dec 24, 2013)

alizacarvor said:


> Yes There are much difference form difference eCommerce sites. yes $800 is bearable one.
> Thank You
> Fix My Computer Dude


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## Paladone (Dec 25, 2013)

alizacarvor said:


> Yes There are much difference form difference eCommerce sites. yes $800 is bearable one.
> Thank You
> Fix My Computer Dude


Lmao I am so confused.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Dec 25, 2013)

Paladone said:


> Lmao I am so confused.



Yep, trying harder at English would do him well.


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## Paladone (Dec 25, 2013)

So now that I have determined the issue to be my motherboard, I am going to purchase a new one. I do not however want to make the same mistake.

I believe that what cause the issue was that I had plugged the fan LED connectors in the speaker headers (smart, I know). Can anyone confirm that this may have cause the burning smell and maybe broke my motherboard?


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## MxPhenom 216 (Dec 25, 2013)

Paladone said:


> So now that I have determined the issue to be my motherboard, I am going to purchase a new one. I do not however want to make the same mistake.
> 
> I believe that what cause the issue was that I had plugged the fan LED connectors in the speaker headers (smart, I know). Can anyone confirm that this may have cause the burning smell and maybe broke my motherboard?




Might have been. Could have tried pulling to much power from that connector, causing it to smell.

Honestly, im not sure its necessary to buy another board. Why not call up Asus for an RMA?


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## micropage7 (Dec 25, 2013)

Paladone said:


> So now that I have determined the issue to be my motherboard, I am going to purchase a new one. I do not however want to make the same mistake.
> 
> I believe that what cause the issue was that I had plugged the fan LED connectors in the speaker headers (smart, I know). Can anyone confirm that this may have cause the burning smell and maybe broke my motherboard?


could be, but burn mark and the smell usually last longer, check any capacitors, vrm, or mosfet


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## Paladone (Dec 25, 2013)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Might have been. Could have tried pulling to much power from that connector, causing it to smell.
> 
> Honestly, i'm not sure its necessary to buy another board. Why not call up Asus for an RMA?



I was told that I would have to wait 10-12 weeks. I am also on holidays at the moment and by the time I got it, I'd be back at school. I figure that I will just buy a replacement and then sell the Formula V if they replace it.


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## Paladone (Dec 25, 2013)

micropage7 said:


> could be, but burn mark and the smell usually last longer, check any capacitors, vrm, or mosfet



I have checked every part and connection within the computer and have not been able to spot any burn marks. The speaker headers do however smell of burnt rubber, which I assumed was because I had fried them by connecting the LED lights on the fans to them.


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## micropage7 (Dec 25, 2013)

Paladone said:


> I believe that the reason it's happening is because I accidentally connected 3 fan LED connectors into the Power SW/reset SW headers *Facepalm* haha



wait wait, i re read it again if you put the board in teh case, it means all front panel cable attached? did you pull it out?

i guess you need to more careful since most header labelled this time


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## Paladone (Dec 25, 2013)

micropage7 said:


> wait wait, i re read it again if you put the board in teh case, it means all front panel cable attached? did you pull it out?
> 
> i guess you need to more careful since most header labelled this time



It was my first time doing such a thing and I didn't have a manual, so I didn't pay attention to the labelling. I believe that I just randomly connected the Power SW, Reset SW, HDD LED and Fan LED's up to the front panel headers.

EDIT: As you said, maybe I was drawing too much power and that caused the smell? But would it break the motherboard?


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## micropage7 (Dec 25, 2013)

Paladone said:


> It was my first time doing such a thing and I didn't have a manual, so I didn't pay attention to the labelling. I believe that I just randomly connected the Power SW, Reset SW, HDD LED and Fan LED's up to the front panel headers.
> 
> EDIT: As you said, maybe I was drawing too much power and that caused the smell? But would it break the motherboard?


yes, short circuit easy to kill electronic stuff


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## FreedomEclipse (Dec 25, 2013)

Take it easy when building a PC - take it slow and be careful where you plug stuff in. If in doubt, consult the manual. Its not a race.

I can usually do a speed build in 1hr or roughly about that? but sometimes even the most basic of builds can take me 4hrs to complete and thats before i even get any software on it.



Paladone said:


> EDIT: As you said, maybe I was drawing too much power and that caused the smell? But would it break the motherboard?



Definitely one of the possibilities


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## the54thvoid (Dec 25, 2013)

Paladone said:


> It was my first time doing such a thing and I didn't have a manual, so I didn't pay attention to the labelling. I believe that I just randomly connected the Power SW, Reset SW, HDD LED and Fan LED's up to the front panel headers.
> 
> EDIT: As you said, maybe I was drawing too much power and that caused the smell? But would it break the motherboard?



If your fans were also plugged into a 4 pin molex(?) that may have caused a surge through the speaker pins (they are not designed to have power through them like that).  Or even any other board power for that matter - that is probably the culprit.


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## Paladone (Dec 26, 2013)

the54thvoid said:


> If your fans were also plugged into a 4 pin molex(?) that may have caused a surge through the speaker pins (they are not designed to have power through them like that).  Or even any other board power for that matter - that is probably the culprit.


I believe that the fans were connected to the leads for the built in fan controller.

EDIT: I actually just noticed that a pin on the speaker headers was bent out of place; could that be the cause? 

The Fan controller is also connected by molex.


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## Paladone (Dec 26, 2013)

Sorry for the double post, but I just wanted to ask a quick couple of questions; If I am going to be installing my new motherboard, will I need an Optical drive for the drivers?

Also, what is the best method for removing old thermal paste on a processor?


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## FreedomEclipse (Dec 26, 2013)

Paladone said:


> Sorry for the double post, but I just wanted to ask a quick couple of questions; If I am going to be installing my new motherboard, will I need an Optical drive for the drivers?
> 
> Also, what is the best method for removing old thermal paste on a processor?



get some rubbing alcohol and a tissue for the old thermal paste. If its easier to get some Arcticlean then that will also work, I have used Arcticlean in the past and its decent. the Rubbing alcohol is better though and its good for removing stuff like perma marker and all sorts of stains around the house so you might prefer to get a household item instead. (your call)

I wouldnt bother with the drivers on the CD, download them from the manufacturers website - they will always be more uptodate then whats on the CD


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