# Where can I put my 360 Rad. in my soon to be New Case ??



## DOM (Oct 15, 2007)

Do they make any Rear Bracket ??  Cant find any 

This is going to be my new case Cooler Master Cosmos RC-1000


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## panchoman (Oct 15, 2007)

swiftech radbox rev 2.

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCB-120.asp


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## DOM (Oct 15, 2007)

well that hold my rad.


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## DaMulta (Oct 15, 2007)

Cut 3 120 holes at the bottom of the case.


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## DOM (Oct 15, 2007)

well it fit ? I know the psu is at the bottom, hmm... I guess im going to ask Darksaber how much space there is at the bottom or can you ask your friend  

Dimensions (LxWxH): 415 x 135 x 46mm


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## DaMulta (Oct 15, 2007)

I forgot that it was on the bottom.


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## DaMulta (Oct 15, 2007)

I wonder if you could put it here somehow.


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## DOM (Oct 15, 2007)

cuz I know the top has 2 X 120mm fans but I really dont want to cut anything and it has the wcing holes on the back

I think this is the one I need MCB-120™Revision 2 "Radbox" radiator/fan housing



> The MCB120 Rev2 "Radbox" can support single, dual or triple 120mm radiators.


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## DrunkenMafia (Oct 15, 2007)

I very much doubt you will be able to mount a triple rad on the back of the case like that Dom.  I would cover most of your pci slots and possibley your psu output...  My bet would be either mounting it on top of the case on the outside or inside the top, it almost looks perfect for it.


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## DOM (Oct 15, 2007)

I guess im going to have to wait  and see what I can come up with where to put it


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## t_ski (Oct 17, 2007)

I had a standard mis-tower atx case a while back that I rigged up something similar to a RadBox to hold a 3x120mm radiator on the back.  It worked OK, but that case was only slightly bigger than the radiator lol

With this case you should have more room, plus with the radbox you are not limited toonly mounting the fan above the other fan - the radbox allows the assembly to mount off center from the back case fan IIRC.


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## mrw1986 (Oct 17, 2007)

I'm mounting a 360mm rad using a RadBox...you won't have any problems. I'm getting the Gigabyte Aurora case, great case for liquid cooling.


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## DOM (Oct 17, 2007)

i'll see how the rad looks on the back I was looking at the Gigabyte Aurora but really dont like the way the front looks and its smaller then the Cooler Master Cosmos  well be getting here tomorrow


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## t_ski (Oct 17, 2007)

I told DOM he needs to post pics of the build for all of us.  Let's make sure he doesn't forget, eh?


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## DOM (Oct 17, 2007)

I well got nothing better to do during the day but I still need to drain the coolant so it might just be the pics of the case lol still need to oder the Microcool Black MOSFET Chipsinks and sum MX-2 to put on the CPU, NB, GPU, SB also lap the CPU which im going to need some more sand paper


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## t_ski (Oct 17, 2007)

I might be able to help with that.  PM sent


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## DOM (Oct 17, 2007)

t_ski said:


> I might be able to help with that.  PM sent



PM replyed


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## Chewy (Oct 17, 2007)

I think you can stick a 360mm rad up to fairly easily.. Im doinf something similar but Im only using a 240mm rad.. wish aI had a thermalchill rad though..

well heres a couple links, http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1144567 

 well I had another link from Nicx forums where a guy put a thermalchill 240mm rad with 2 35mm fans inside his Silverstone tj09 case with a little modding..

 I thinif you cut out that center bracket you will fit a 360mm rad , as could of with a little bit of overhang.

 that top vent thing on the Cosmos can be taken off too so I think you could screw a 360mm rad snug to the roof of the case drilling some holes up top.. it will have a little bit of overhang but you can still force air trough the vents well enough.

 I should be getting my case tomorrow  The cosmos was to tall to fit under my desk so I went with this Silverstone.

 edit: reading trough this thread more I see you said you didnt really want to cut the case, but do it! internal mounting is the way to go  well for me maybe the rad outside will look sexier on that case and for you.. I want all my rads internally mounted Im getting a 120mm rad to go with the 240mm I got off LT-Lws (tpu member)... and Im going to have duel pump whic I have to find the best place to place each pump :S lol

 I like internal mounting but the swiftech rad box loooks nice and is very easy to set up too. I like how it does not effect the case ventilation.


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## DOM (Oct 17, 2007)

yeah I know but if I cut I dont have the tools and which well cost more then the $20 for the rad box thing 

but well see when I get it here tomorrow when you get are to  post spme pics to


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## Chewy (Oct 18, 2007)

I will make a thread.. I have a decent web cam maybe I can borrow one.


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## DOM (Oct 18, 2007)

It's here 44lbs. with it in the box


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## Chewy (Oct 18, 2007)

I just got mine.. had to go to the depot to pick it up.. also my 120mm rear rad is not going to fit with the chipset/vreg optional fans because they stand up straight.. so maybe I should of went with a radbox and another 240mm rad.. or a 240-360mm Thermochill radiator lol which would be optimal. but ohwell.

 Case is still in box but once I get it out and get a little more organized I will take a few pictures elc.

 44lbs !? holy lol I thin mines like 28lbs with packaging. brb in a bit gotta help someone with something..


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## DOM (Oct 18, 2007)




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## t_ski (Oct 19, 2007)

Looks good - time to start modding


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## Chewy (Oct 19, 2007)

heres my case inside.. I did some measuring and a 360mm rad would overhang about 1.5" off each side of my vent holes.. the middle bracket is between the fan is 1.3", yours looks about the same so yeah you could mount it internal just drill some holes up top to screw your rad to the case.. or you could drill/tap (make screw holes for screws) onto the side of the radiator so you can use that bracket that originally was for the case fans to mount the rad 

 well heres my case, I have the 120mm rad sitting on the back thin Im going to drill some holes so my tubing stays within the case.. but I have a delima I prob wont be watercooling my 8800gts I am more than likely going to sell it since I want a black pbc card and the new 8800's are coming out. hopefully theses a black pbc 8800gt or the new gts...


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## DOM (Oct 20, 2007)

So does it look good here or should I just put it in the back ??


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## KennyT772 (Oct 20, 2007)

Doesn't look like you have any way of mounting it to the fans, holes don't line up. If you do mount it to the top as such, mount it using long screws going through the top of the case into the rad. The front most fan should blow air down (easier to remove the air that way) while the other two blow up and out of the case. Then just use the top 5.25 for a fan controller and your set!


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## DaMulta (Oct 20, 2007)

that case is fing huge


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## Chewy (Oct 20, 2007)

humm yeah it would be nice if you could mount the rad like flush to the top of the case.. than if you have the space up there so you can make vent holes for the whole length of the rad that would be optimal... just attach the fans to the bottom of the rad inside the case.

 thats going to be sweet, I just got started on my project again.. I can rma just the side panel of my case..  I decided Im going to wait and see how the panel looks when Im done..its not overly defected just I expected it to be flawless and theres a few minor scratches.

 heres a little view of what I put together to see how the rear rad would fit.




 with longer screws than what came with the rad I can prob drill some holes without taking out a rivet.. just not sure if I can find longer screws that will screw into the rad.. I'll have to see if I can find some at a hardware store.


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## KennyT772 (Oct 20, 2007)

If you do decide to go with a radbox, let me know. I have one I'll sell ya screws and all.


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## t_ski (Oct 20, 2007)

Chewy, looks good, but you might consider something like this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30...ng-Radiators_Shrouds-120mm_Shrouds-Page1.html

Just a 120mm fan shroud that separates the fan from the rad.  This removes the dead spot under the hub of the fan and helps it perform better.  It comes with foam to seal it and longer screws, too.  I used them before and they worked well.

DOM, I think it looks like it will work OK up top, as long as there won't be any interference with the mobo, etc.  You might consider modding the top some.  You could open it up for the triple rad similar to how I did my Lian Li:



 

 

 



Now, that's not with the rad installed, but due to the way the case is laid out, the rad needs to be on the _*top*_ of the case.  I hope to put the watercooling back in soon. 

I know you said you don't have the tools, but do you know anyone who might have a jig saw or a Dremel?  Heck, it you were any closer I'd mod it for you, but shipping would cost more than it would cost for the tools.


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## DOM (Oct 20, 2007)

@Chewy, you suck I havent even taken my comp apart that rad was the 1st one they sent me that was damaged from the usps and they never sent the stuff the return it so I kept it


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## DOM (Oct 20, 2007)

KennyT772 said:


> If you do decide to go with a radbox, let me know. I have one I'll sell ya screws and all.


what Revision is it and for how much ?


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## DOM (Oct 20, 2007)

@t_ski, well I was looking at the Dremel's I think it was this kit at walmart for $80-90 it that good 

http://www.dremeleurope.com/dremelo...BA8B58?language=en-GB&prod_id=290&ccat_id=472

or this one at lowes

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=129666-353-300-1/50&lpage=none

or should I get something like this 

Dremel 400-6/90 400 Series Rotary Tool Kit w/ XPR MultiSaw & XPR Planer Attachment


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## KennyT772 (Oct 20, 2007)

Its the brand new one, came with my apex220 kit. Performance PC's place it at $20 new, so how does $15+shipping sound. Comes with the Long mounting screws for mounting casefan-case-spacer-radbox, but I do not currently have the screws for mounting a fan-rad to the radbox. I will be going to my local home depot today to find some screws that will work. The dual 3/8 hole pci slot plate will also be included. 
If I can't get the screws personally I will sell it at $12+ship. 

If you have any more questions just pm me.

Edit - Its $15 on newegg, $10 + ship then and I found the screws so it will be complete.


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## KennyT772 (Oct 20, 2007)

Bump for the radbox.


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## Chewy (Oct 20, 2007)

humm it does not have to have the dremel name either I have one that costs about 20$ its a Sears Craftsman make (Sears is a retailer in Canada).

 80$ is  a bit much to spend, you prob will hardly use this tool too. the metal cut off things for them are expencive too.. like $30, though a kit might come with one or 2 which is enough for your project.


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## DOM (Oct 21, 2007)

Chewy said:


> humm it does not have to have the dremel name either I have one that costs about 20$ its a Sears Craftsman make (Sears is a retailer in Canada).
> 
> 80$ is  a bit much to spend, you prob will hardly use this tool too. the metal cut off things for them are expencive too.. like $30, though a kit might come with one or 2 which is enough for your project.


is yours cordless ?

I fixed the link to the last one was it working ? or it was just me ?

I know I might not use it again but dont you think the last one is a good price for all that stuff which might com in handy later


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## t_ski (Oct 21, 2007)

I bought a Black and Decker Wizzard, which came in a kit with all kinds of stuff.  The metal cut-off wheels are not $30 by themselves, but you can buy like a 200-piece kit with all kinds of crap in it for $30:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100487668


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## Chewy (Oct 21, 2007)

I bought this one.. guess I got jipped but thier durable 
http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/p...2926095546&assortment=primary&fromSearch=true

 they have theses ones in stock now.. http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/p...2926071922&assortment=primary&fromSearch=true but I just stayed away from the brown ones after trying a couple of them on my old Steel Chassis.. they just disintegrated real quick and made some dust.. they came for free with my cheap rotary tool.

 naa mines not cordless, cordless could come in handy at timer though.. you can do alot of different things with theses but I hardly ever use mine. But if you have a house elc, it'll deff come in handy at times.


On another note:  Planning my case layout was some slow progress lol, thats the problem with having 2 rads and 2 pumps in your loop LOL.. ohwell its going ok now and Im going to paint my tray.. just had to get my webcam working again.. fror some reason it wouldnt work till I reinstalled the drivers.. Im going to paint now 

I'll start my own thread soon 


 Edit: guess my link did not work for most so heres the cut off wheel I bought, thier 20USD in the USA... I found the brown ones got eaten up to quick and caused alot of dust.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...+90401&marketID=401&locStoreNum=8125&D=dremel


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## t_ski (Oct 21, 2007)

There are two different kinds of brown ones, regular and heavy duty.  I always use the heavy duty ones, and they work OK for me.  But people, make sure you are using safety glasses and a dust mask with these.  You do not want these breaking and taking out an eye, nor do you want to breath in the nasty dust.  Be safe and live to mod another day


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## DOM (Oct 22, 2007)

I finally took out everything from my other case and laped my cpu but not done yet


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## Dr. Spankenstein (Oct 22, 2007)

I'm curious to see how you work the logistics of the triple in your case.

I'm trying the same thing in my dinky Ultra Aluminus tower.

*conferring with his crystal ball* I see.....an extremely clean build in your future!

Good luck!


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## t_ski (Oct 22, 2007)

I'll be very interested in what kind of CPU temp drop you see when you get everything back together.


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## Wile E (Oct 22, 2007)

If you decide to use a rad box, I would like to offer a bit of warning. I have a Stacker 830, and the rear exhaust has the same grill around it. It causes a bit of an issue getting the radbox to sit properly. You may have to cut out the factory grill to get it to sit right.


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## DOM (Oct 23, 2007)

so how do the wires look


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## t_ski (Oct 24, 2007)

Very nice   I don't see the point in going overboard like some guys do (soldering the PSU connections to the back of the mobo, etc.)  You might take some wires ties and bundle together the USB and FireWire cables for a nice touch


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## DOM (Oct 24, 2007)

yeah thats overkill, well I got some Black Sleeving and Black Heat Shrink coming in the mail so I hope to have everything done buy the weekend, I hope 

cuz the 24-pin didnt want to fit through the back  it was to fat


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## Dr. Spankenstein (Oct 24, 2007)

He's goin' for the "Full Monty"! Cooling the CPU, GPU (I assume), NB and SB!

You should ask OCZ for a partial reimbursement....they shorted you on some sleeving for your 4-pin and 24-pin!

Lookin' good! I agree with t ski, toss your USB & firewire cables into the mongo sized sleeving they give you. Nice and tidy!

Keep us up-to-date....


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## DOM (Oct 24, 2007)

lol the CPU, NB, GPU, SB they all been on water since May 

 might put some blk tape on them


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## t_ski (Oct 24, 2007)

Dr. Spankenstein said:


> He's goin' for the "Full Monty"! Cooling the CPU, GPU (I assume), NB and SB!
> 
> You should ask OCZ for a partial reimbursement....they shorted you on some sleeving for your 4-pin and 24-pin!
> 
> ...



I take it you never saw the old build?  He had the CPU, GPU, NB, SB and two mosfets blocks all watercooled.

Dom, don't use the black electrical tape.  Sometimes that can get messy and the adhesive gets everywhere.  Just take a couple of the black plastic wires ties (aka zip ties) and bundle the cables together every 4-6" until they can't be seen anymore.  I did that with my SATA cables and it worked great.  When I get my new drives in I'll take a pick of the cables and show you what I mean.


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## DOM (Oct 24, 2007)

t_ski said:


> I take it you never saw the old build?  He had the CPU, GPU, NB, SB and two mosfets blocks all watercooled.
> 
> Dom, don't use the black electrical tape.  Sometimes that can get messy and the adhesive gets everywhere.  Just take a couple of the black plastic wires ties (aka zip ties) and bundle the cables together every 4-6" until they can't be seen anymore.  I did that with my SATA cables and it worked great.  When I get my new drives in I'll take a pick of the cables and show you what I mean.


yeah i know what you mean, i got like 100 blk zip ties


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## ex_reven (Oct 24, 2007)

I find a rear mounted rad pretty stupid. I mean, it blocks your exhaust fan...
I like the mounting on top idea  Looks good too!


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## Wile E (Oct 24, 2007)

ex_reven said:


> I find a rear mounted rad pretty stupid. I mean, it blocks your exhaust fan...


Yeah, but with our cases, that isn't really a problem. That's where I mounted my triple. Plus, you gotta realize, he isn't using air to cool very much of his setup. lol


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## ex_reven (Oct 24, 2007)

Wile E said:


> Yeah, but with our cases, that isn't really a problem. That's where I mounted my triple. Plus, you gotta realize, he isn't using air to cool very much of his setup. lol



Still, why waste your cases potential without considering more efficient alternatives .


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## Wile E (Oct 24, 2007)

ex_reven said:


> Still, why waste your cases potential without considering more efficient alternatives .


Like what, cutting my Stacker? Ummmm, No.


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## ex_reven (Oct 24, 2007)

Wile E said:


> Like what, cutting my Stacker? Ummmm, No.



Why not?
Id probably get my dad to do it since I have no idea, but he does it all the time.

Actually, with a stacker you could probably cut into the bottom and do it there.
My stacker sits up high, so dust wouldnt be a problem, though I think you keep yours on the floor right?


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## DOM (Oct 24, 2007)

ex_reven said:


> Still, why waste your cases potential without considering more efficient alternatives .



well $17 for rad box or $135 for the dremel kit I wanted, what would you pick  

well im going with the rad box and see how it goes cuz dont fell like making a mess cuz I have to clean it up right now the room is a mess  im just waitting on the parts and so I can run the tubing cuz all blocks are on


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## ex_reven (Oct 24, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> well $17 for rad box or $135 for the dremel kit I wanted, what would you pick
> 
> well im going with the rad box and see how it goes cuz dont fell like making a mess cuz I have to clean it up right now the room is a mess  im just waitting on the parts and so I can run the tubing cuz all blocks are on



Cordless drill with one of those hollow round drill bits.
I dunno what theyr called lol.


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## DOM (Oct 24, 2007)

ex_reven said:


> Cordless drill with one of those hollow round drill bits.
> I dunno what theyr called lol.


I think I know what your talking about to make circle holes there like 20-30+ just for one size


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## ex_reven (Oct 24, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> I think I know what your talking about to make circle holes there like 20-30+ just for one size



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hole_saw

Found it


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## t_ski (Oct 24, 2007)

Just so you know, the RadBox does not in any way block the exhaust fan at the back of the case.  It's an open frame, which allows the air to go out the sides, top or bottom, or even get drawn into the radiator by the fan(s) on it.  And typically, people have more powerful fans on their radiators than in their cases, so the rad fan will pull more than the case fan can push.


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## ex_reven (Oct 24, 2007)

t_ski said:


> Just so you know, the RadBox does not in any way block the exhaust fan at the back of the case.  It's an open frame, which allows the air to go out the sides, top or bottom, or even get drawn into the radiator by the fan(s) on it.  And typically, people have more powerful fans on their radiators than in their cases, so the rad fan will pull more than the case fan can push.



You have a point there.


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## oily_17 (Oct 24, 2007)

I have my double rad mounted to the back of the case with a radbox.It does let your exhaust fan expel air without any problems and still lets you mount your rad about 30mm from your case.
Here are some pics to give you an idea of mine,sorry they are not that good,only ones I have.

Just make sure when mounting your triple,if you use the middle of the rad to mount the radbox,that the bottom of your rad does not cover any connections for your PCI slots.You should be OK as the exhaust fan looks to be far enough offset to avoid this.
When mounting mine I had to use longer screws to go through the rear fan,standoff blocks and then into the radbox itself.

Good luck with yours,looking good all ready.Your cables are fine so far,I had the same trouble when doing mine.


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## t_ski (Oct 24, 2007)

Hmmmmm, that case looks very familiar... 

Just out of curiousity, did you ever think to mount the rad on the top of the case with the radbox?  I know that the swiftech 220 & 320 rads are the ones where the tubing knockouts on the case line up with the barbs on the rad.  Unfortunately, I also know that when they do, the holes for the fan don't match up with the ones for the radiator's fan.


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## Wile E (Oct 25, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> well $17 for rad box or $135 for the dremel kit I wanted, what would you pick
> 
> well im going with the rad box and see how it goes cuz dont fell like making a mess cuz I have to clean it up right now the room is a mess  im just waitting on the parts and so I can run the tubing cuz all blocks are on


Like I said, you may want to cut out the factory grill on your exhaust fan. I had problems with it and a rad box, because of the way it sticks out.


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## Chewy (Oct 25, 2007)

humm, Wile_E is right but you coould get some longer screws and some washers rads uses #6-32 screws I used ones that were 1.5" long the ones that come with a rad are 1" with a rad box Im not sure what length they are but I'd imagine longer..

 the original screws that came with my rad were not long enough to do what I did back here.. theses 1.5" screws were perfect.. the pack came with 6 screws and 6 hex nuts.

Think this will help him Wile_e? not sure the max lengths theses screws are available in.




 P.s. I had to make clearance for my side panel handle, thats why I couldnt have the rad flush with my case..  oh and you could use some #6 washers and a hex nut for clearance I think this will work for ya but Im not sure because I havent seen/used a radbox in person.  I dont like cutting up my case either  all my mods so far have not really damaged my case... besides for breaking off some plastic that didnt really do anything anyway .


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## Wile E (Oct 25, 2007)

Chewy said:


> humm, Wile_E is right but you coould get some longer screws and some washers rads uses #6-32 screws I used ones that were 1.5" long the ones that come with a rad are 1" with a rad box Im not sure what length they are but I'd imagine longer..
> 
> the original screws that came with my rad were not long enough to do what I did back here.. theses 1.5" screws were perfect.. the pack came with 6 screws and 6 hex nuts.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I had to use longer screws as well, but the problem is, the radbox doesn't sit flush on the back of the case. I suppose some spacers (or a stack of small washers) between the radbox's screw holes, and the back of the case would work as well. Seems to be around 1/2" gap. I think I'll try that. Thanks for the idea, Chewy.


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## tkpenalty (Oct 25, 2007)

Before you do anything... cant you mount the radiator by removing the bottom intake fan? I mean, its not really an essential part of the case is it? Remove, then mount radiator in the space where the bottom intake is, or even mount the radiator with the 120mm intake.

EDIT: _I should learn to read..._

Looks great man


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## oily_17 (Oct 25, 2007)

t_ski said:


> Hmmmmm, that case looks very familiar...
> 
> Just out of curiousity, did you ever think to mount the rad on the top of the case with the radbox?  I know that the swiftech 220 & 320 rads are the ones where the tubing knockouts on the case line up with the barbs on the rad.  Unfortunately, I also know that when they do, the holes for the fan don't match up with the ones for the radiator's fan.



Yeah,after reading your review of the case it made my mind up on what new case to get.
I must say I am extremely pleased with it 

I _was_ thinking of mounting the rad on top but as you said the fan holes and cut outs just dont line up(I think you pointed this out to me in another thread)...it's a pity really.Still I'm happy with the setup as it is,well nearly LOL

@ DOM   The radbox comes with white nylon spacers to move it away from your case,so it will not matter if the back is not completely flat.


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## DOM (Oct 25, 2007)

thanks guys, well see if I get the parts today


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## t_ski (Oct 25, 2007)

oily_17 said:


> I think you pointed this out to me in another thread



LOL Sorry, I have no memory


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## KennyT772 (Oct 25, 2007)

Wile E said:


> Like I said, you may want to cut out the factory grill on your exhaust fan. I had problems with it and a rad box, because of the way it sticks out.



A radbox that comes with the kits has a set of 4 1" standoffs to allow the rear fan to still breath, and to avoid clearance problems.


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## DOM (Oct 25, 2007)

well got my stuff today 

and the rad box has 4 1" standoffs so no need cutting the grill


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## t_ski (Oct 25, 2007)

Good to hear.  Put it together and post some pics for us already


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## DOM (Oct 25, 2007)

well almost done just need to hook up the tubing but might do that tomorrow


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## t_ski (Oct 25, 2007)

Dang, you did go crazy with those Microcool Chipsinks, didn't you?


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## Wile E (Oct 26, 2007)

KennyT772 said:


> A radbox that comes with the kits has a set of 4 1" standoffs to allow the rear fan to still breath, and to avoid clearance problems.


Well that's crappy. Mine didn't come with any spacers.


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## DOM (Oct 26, 2007)

t_ski said:


> Dang, you did go crazy with those Microcool Chipsinks, didn't you?


lol yeah I wish I had just went with all MicroSink cuz the MOSFET Chipsink where lil fuckers didnt want to stay on at first and if I where just to bump it, it would fall  but they been good been on since yesterday just hope they stay there when I start running the tubing 



Wile E said:


> Well that's crappy. Mine didn't come with any spacers.


did you get the 

Swiftech MCB-120™ Rev. 2 Radbox Radiator/fan housing - Black


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## Wile E (Oct 26, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> did you get the
> 
> Swiftech MCB-120™ Rev. 2 Radbox Radiator/fan housing - Black


Yeah, but it came with a Swiftech H20-120 Premium kit.


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## DOM (Oct 26, 2007)

Wile E said:


> Yeah, but it came with a Swiftech H20-120 Premium kit.



I guess you got screwed cuz both the regular MCB-120 and rev. 2 got the 1/2" spacer 

have you ever posted your rig ?


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## DOM (Oct 26, 2007)

almost done just need to hook up the pump and rad fill her up and this time the side closes


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## KennyT772 (Oct 26, 2007)

Hey dom, I can build you some fan brackets for your motherboard, to keep all those chipsinks cool along with your ram. Not to mention you are still going to want to actively cool that gpu...


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## Dr. Spankenstein (Oct 26, 2007)

Lookin' MY-T-FINE!!! Can't wait to see how it runs.


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## DOM (Oct 26, 2007)

KennyT772 said:


> Hey dom, I can build you some fan brackets for your motherboard, to keep all those chipsinks cool along with your ram. Not to mention you are still going to want to actively cool that gpu...


huh ? I get the fan brackets , but "actively cool that gpu"  and I have a ocz ram cooler

and thanks Dr.


----------



## DOM (Oct 26, 2007)

okay almost done needed to get new screws, the ones that came where lil short for the rad box  but the new ones work alot better then the ones that came with the rad.


----------



## Dr. Spankenstein (Oct 26, 2007)

thread needz moar en-picturinating!


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## Wile E (Oct 26, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> I guess you got screwed cuz both the regular MCB-120 and rev. 2 got the 1/2" spacer
> 
> have you ever posted your rig ?


I never posted it with the 3x120 rad mounted. I don't run that right now. I'm just running on top of my desk, on air cooling, until I get around to RMAing this 680i sitting here, that decided to commit suicide.

I did post a picture in the X19k~HD2k clubhouse of my single 120mm setup. It's linked on the first page.


----------



## DOM (Oct 27, 2007)

rig is up and running post pics later 

getting all the air bubbles out


----------



## Chewy (Oct 27, 2007)

woot nice, I still have to wait for my order to be processed.. having issues with my bank payment :O  I need my koolance 90' swivel-fittings for my rad! extra fluid elc.  I paid it on Monday its still not been transferred/received! hopefully by monday..

 How are you getting the bubbles out? do you have to tilt you case alot?


----------



## DOM (Oct 27, 2007)

Chewy said:


> woot nice, I still have to wait for my order to be processed.. having issues with my bank payment :O  I need my koolance 90' swivel-fittings for my rad! extra fluid elc.  I paid it on Monday its still not been transferred/received! hopefully by monday..
> 
> How are you getting the bubbles out? do you have to tilt you case alot?



that sucks 

this is how im doing it with the cap off the res.


----------



## DOM (Oct 27, 2007)

is it okay to run 6 120mm fans off one 4 pin connector ?

so I can solder them to one so I can have less connectors ?


----------



## Wile E (Oct 27, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> is it okay to run 6 120mm fans off one 4 pin connector ?
> 
> so I can solder them to one so I can have less connectors ?


I don't see why not, as long as they're not ultra high powered fans, they should only draw a couple of amps. What's the specs on the fans?


----------



## DOM (Oct 27, 2007)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999127

cuz Ive been running them off one 4-pin from the psu but its psu, fan ,fan etc.


----------



## Wile E (Oct 27, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999127



Isn't there a sticker on the fan that states it's current draw?


----------



## DOM (Oct 27, 2007)

Wile E said:


> Isn't there a sticker on the fan that states it's current draw?



0.38 amp that one right ?


----------



## Wile E (Oct 27, 2007)

Yep, that's the one. All six would draw 2.28A, or 27W. Should be fine on a single molex. I assume you have spare molexes around from fan converters and such, just pick the one with the highest gauge wire, for added safety.


----------



## DOM (Oct 27, 2007)

Wile E said:


> Yep, that's the one. All six would draw 2.28A, or 27W. Should be fine on a single molex. I assume you have spare molexes around from fan converters and such, just pick the one with the highest gauge wire, for added safety.



there all the same the 4-pins 

cuz you mean for the ones from the fan to connet to 4-pin to be the highest


----------



## Wile E (Oct 27, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> there all the same the 4-pins
> 
> cuz you mean for the ones from the fan to connet to 4-pin to be the highest


Whichever molex you plan to connect all 6 fans to, should have the highest gauge wires. So, if you are gonna cut the molex off of something else to use for your fans, cut it from whatever you have laying around, that has the highest gauge wire. Such as 3pin-4pin fan converters and such. I wouldn't recommend soldering 5 fans into the 6th fan's connector, as fans usually have a low gauge wire.


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## DOM (Oct 27, 2007)

Wile E said:


> Whichever molex you plan to connect all 6 fans to, should have the highest gauge wires. So, if you are gonna cut the molex off of something else to use for your fans, cut it from whatever you have laying around, that has the highest gauge wire. Such as 3pin-4pin fan converters and such. I wouldn't recommend soldering 5 fans into the 6th fan's connector, as fans usually have a low gauge wire.



okay, but these fans only have the same 4-pin like from the psu, its the lil wire from the fans to the 4-pin no fan converters but the same size wire 

so I guess im good ill post a pic after im done


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## Wile E (Oct 27, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> okay, but these fans only have the same 4-pin like from the psu, its the lil wire from the fans to the 4-pin no fan converters but the same size wire
> 
> so I guess im good ill post a pic after im done


I know you meant they had 4pin connectors. I was just trying to tell you not to use one from 1 of the 6 fans. If you have an extra converter of any kind that has the proper molex connector on it, check to see if it has a higher gauge wire, and use that instead. Wire all 6 fans to it, instead of wiring 5 fans to the 6th fan.

lol. I'm having a hard time explaining what I mean. Did you follow?


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## DOM (Oct 27, 2007)

Wile E said:


> I know you meant they had 4pin connectors. I was just trying to tell you not to use one from 1 of the 6 fans. If you have an extra converter of any kind that has the proper molex connector on it, check to see if it has a higher gauge wire, and use that instead. Wire all 6 fans to it, instead of wiring 5 fans to the 6th fan.
> 
> lol. I'm having a hard time explaining what I mean. Did you follow?



lol I think I do but im just wanting to make sure before I do it 

like this right ?


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## Wile E (Oct 27, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> lol I think I do but im just wanting to make sure before I do it
> 
> like this right ?


Oh, you needed wiring advice. lol Yeah, yellow is the 12v, and black is ground. Those are what you want to connect to whatever molex you bastardize. lol


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## DOM (Oct 27, 2007)

lol no thats how its on from the fans I just wanted to use 1 4-pin not 6 cuz thats what I have to do to hook up all 6 to 1 4-pin right ?

and I know thats for 12v


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## Wile E (Oct 27, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> lol no thats how its on from the fans I just wanted to use 1 4-pin not 6


Right. I gathered that you want to use one connector.

OK, let me try to explain this better.

Cut the molexes off of all 6 fans. Find some sort of converter laying around, that has a molex, with some higher gauge wire, and cut the molex off of it. (One of those molex to 6-pin PCIe converters would be perfect) Solder the 6 fans to the molex you stole from the converter. Ta-da! You now have 6 fans on one molex.

And to clear anything else up that might be confusing, molex = 4 pin.


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## DOM (Oct 27, 2007)

okay you made my head hurt well I did it and it works lol 

hope this is what your where talking about


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## Wile E (Oct 27, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> okay you made my head hurt well I did it and it works lol
> 
> hope this is what your where talking about
> 
> http://img.techpowerup.org/071027/IMG_0137.jpg


That works. That's what I was talking about for the most part, but I would've cut that adapter in half, so I had some wire to work with, and just discarded the unneeded part of it. But hey, your method works too, and it gives you an extra female connector, if you need it.


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## DOM (Oct 27, 2007)

Wile E said:


> That works. That's what I was talking about for the most part, but I would've cut that adapter in half, so I had some wire to work with, and just discarded the unneeded part of it. But hey, your method works too, and it gives you an extra female connector, if you need it.


lol, I think I going to do it the other way got lots of extra 4-pins and it would be easy that way cuz I took out the pins the way I did it and put them back


cuz I just need the yellow and blk ? so I can take off the other blk and red 

man my head hurts to much thinking


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## Wile E (Oct 27, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> lol, I think I going to do it the other way got lots of extra 4-pins and it would be easy that way cuz I took out the pins the way I did it and put them back
> 
> 
> cuz I just need the yellow and blk ? so I can take off the other blk and red
> ...


All you need is yellow and black.


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## t_ski (Oct 27, 2007)

Right - what Wile E said.  One problem I see is that you are trying to draw all the electricity through a small couple of wires.  Each fan can handle going through a small wire, but when you bundle them up and solder them to one of the small wires coming off the converter there, it can choke.  It's kinda like trying to drink a milkshake through a straw that only 1/8" in diameter - tough.  I would do as Wile E suggested:  Cut the converter in half, remove the black and red wires like you want to, then solder those six + wires to the larger wire on the converter.


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## DOM (Oct 27, 2007)

its done but now I have to clean the room


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## Chewy (Oct 27, 2007)

Thats a piece of art  nice work.


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## twicksisted (Oct 27, 2007)

hey man, that looks fantastic... real neat!
one thing... would you not get better cooling if you turned your PSU upside down so that the fan extracts out the main chamber of the case?

I have not used a case with bottom PSU mounting before but would assume that the 12cm fan on that OCZ psu would draw quite a bit of air from your GFX card and the main chamber..

anyone else have an ideas on this?


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## DOM (Oct 27, 2007)

twicksisted said:


> hey man, that looks fantastic... real neat!
> one thing... would you not get better cooling if you turned your PSU upside down so that the fan extracts out the main chamber of the case?
> 
> I have not used a case with bottom PSU mounting before but would assume that the 12cm fan on that OCZ psu would draw quite a bit of air from your GFX card and the main chamber..
> ...





> main chamber


 lol the card is on water


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## t_ski (Oct 27, 2007)

I think part of the design is that the PSU draws cool air from outside the case, which will keep down the noise of thermally-controlled PSU fans, plus make the PSU run cooler and more stable.

Looks awesome Dom.  Your loops are tight


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## twicksisted (Oct 27, 2007)

aaah ok... 
still would be interesting to know the different between useing the psu facing up or down in a bottom mounted case from the other users...

If the cards block is on water, then perhaps other areas like the VRM's or memory could do with a cooler case inner.. i dont use watercooling or bottom mounted PSU but would like to know


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## twicksisted (Oct 27, 2007)

t_ski said:


> I think part of the design is that the PSU draws cool air from outside the case, which will keep down the noise of thermally-controlled PSU fans, plus make the PSU run cooler and more stable.
> 
> Looks awesome Dom.  Your loops are tight



aah ok makes sense 
my nzxt lexa roars hehe!!! and then goes down a tad when i open the case door


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## DOM (Oct 27, 2007)

t_ski said:


> I think part of the design is that the PSU draws cool air from outside the case, which will keep down the noise of thermally-controlled PSU fans, plus make the PSU run cooler and more stable.
> 
> Looks awesome Dom.  Your loops are tight


thanks, yeah the side closes lol not like my other case 


@twicksisted, the fan at the bottom is an intake its at 2650rpm but cant even hear it cuz the sides of the case a padded and theres 3X120mm fans one at the back and two at the top for exhaust 



but i'll post more pics of it in the Case Gallery when I get a chance still need to clean and havent decided where to put the case under the desk or on the side 



are these temps any good for the cpu ?? 3.6GHz the HD went up


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## twicksisted (Oct 27, 2007)

does the HD have a fan in the front of the case blowing onto it?
also, what are the internal temps of the case like... i assume that they pretty low..


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## DOM (Oct 27, 2007)

twicksisted said:


> does the HD have a fan in the front of the case blowing onto it?
> also, what are the internal temps of the case like... i assume that they pretty low..



no not yet was going to add the 120mm one the I toke off or some 80mm ones I have 

well the system temp is 1c lower then when I had it in my other case which I didnt have the side on cuz the tubes stuck out to much and the card is lil lower also


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## twicksisted (Oct 27, 2007)

i find that i need to have a fan blowing on my drives.... i have four in raid 0... and they idle at 36! even with a fan.
I had them in an icybox raid bay before and they would sit at 27c though... cant mount that in the front anymore as my galaxy psu takes up too much room... aah well... 40c is fine i guess


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## Kursah (Oct 27, 2007)

40C on an HDD isn't horrible, I remember reading somewhere that 50C should be as hot as it ever gets, but that damage can occur at that temp. 36C is that idle for your CPU at 3.6? What volts you running to keep it there?

Awesome job BTW, you did an excellent job of form and function when you put that all together.


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## t_ski (Oct 28, 2007)

The HD mounts are for quiet, not performance.  I bet you can't hear it running...


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## twicksisted (Oct 28, 2007)

t_ski said:


> The HD mounts are for quiet, not performance.  I bet you can't hear it running...



no these had really good cooling (and i guess were quiet though ther drives i had already were).... heres a blurry pic i took with my phone when i had it installed..





now im just running them on top of one another without that raid box and the normal case fan and it idles at 36 (was 27c)


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## t_ski (Oct 28, 2007)

Actually I was directing that at Dom


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## twicksisted (Oct 28, 2007)

lol... sry hehe 

well in that case... i bet he cant hear it running... those samsung spinpoints are seriously quiet drives!!
I build an amd rig for my GF with one of those (250gb) in a basic case and cant hear it atall! (does have silicon grommets in the drive mountings though


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## Dr. Spankenstein (Oct 28, 2007)

First off, nice work! Looks extemely clean!

I agree with Kursah that 40C is not terrible, but having some air blowing across them would be a good idea. I plan on suspending mine in my 5" bays to keep 'em cool and quiet.

As for the CPU temps, I'm curious about your loop. Does it run pump>res>rad>CPU>NB>GPU>SB>pump? I know the DTek is a high flow block, but it might need more flow speed to work better. (Looking at your old set-up, it seems you have the same loop minus the vreg blocks. Now I am confused as to why your Idle is so high!)

I'm still wracking my brain trying to determine my final layout. (But  I think I've got it!)

Again, great job! When are you moving to a next-gen card? We can start our epic battle anew!

Cheers,

Bryan


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## t_ski (Oct 28, 2007)

Dr. Spankenstein said:


> As for the CPU temps, I'm curious about your loop. Does it run pump>res>rad>CPU>NB>GPU>SB>pump?



I didn't notice that before, but it looks like it?  Dom, don't you think youre losing some flow by having it go from the pump to the res?  I think it should go pump>rad>CPU>NB>GPU>SB>res>>pump.


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## Dr. Spankenstein (Oct 28, 2007)

...and puting the res at the end would catch those nasty bubbles when they are coalesced into big bubbles and not being torn apart after going through the pump.

Does that make any sense?


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## Wile E (Oct 28, 2007)

t_ski said:


> I didn't notice that before, but it looks like it?  Dom, don't you think youre losing some flow by having it go from the pump to the res?  I think it should go pump>rad>CPU>NB>GPU>SB>res>>pump.


It's going *pump>SB>GPU>NB>CPU>Rad>Res>pump*.

The intake of the pump is on top, and the output is on the side.

Personally, I would go *pump>CPU>GPU>NB>SB>Rad>Res>Pump*. But I would prefer a lower CPU temp, versus the lower GPU temp his setup should achieve.


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## DOM (Oct 28, 2007)

so should I change it ? the loop cuz its going to be a pain but I still got tubing its just taking out the coolant 


Edit cuz the other temps where at room temp of 73-75F


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## Wile E (Oct 28, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> so should I change it ? the loop cuz its going to be a pain but I still got tubing its just taking out the coolant


Personally, I would cool the cpu and/or gpu first. That way they get the coolest water. Personally, I would do the cpu first (the way I listed above), but if you prefer better gpu cooling I would go *Pump>GPU>CPU>NB>SB>Rad>Res>Pump*


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## DOM (Oct 28, 2007)

Wile E said:


> Personally, I would cool the cpu and/or gpu first. That way they get the coolest water. Personally, I would do the cpu first (the way I listed above), but if you prefer better gpu cooling I would go *Pump>GPU>CPU>NB>SB>Rad>Res>Pump*



lol well I guess its not done  i'll do it like you said if it doesnt help you have to give me your card 

cuz I just checked I still got 7-9ft. new unused tubing

cuz what about running it 

*Pump>CPU>NB>GPU>SB>Rad>Res>Pump*


----------



## Wile E (Oct 28, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> lol well I guess its not done  i'll do it like you said if it doesnt help you have to give me your card
> 
> cuz I just checked I still got 7-9ft. new unused tubing


If you prefer better CPU instead of GPU go *pump>CPU>GPU>NB>SB>Rad>Res>pump*.


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## DOM (Oct 28, 2007)

Wile E said:


> If you prefer better CPU instead of GPU go *pump>CPU>GPU>NB>SB>Rad>Res>pump*.



I edited above, what about that way ? or the way your telling me well this is my 1st wcing/rig lol so I take it cuz the D-TEK blocks need to be 1st cuz they need higher flow ?

cuz the temps didnt change to much from taking the reg blocks out


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## Wile E (Oct 28, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> I edited above, what about that way ? or the way your telling me well this is my 1st wcing/rig lol so I take it cuz the D-TEK blocks need to be 1st cuz they need higher flow ?
> 
> cuz the temps didnt change to much from taking the reg blocks out


That would work too. The NB won't heat the water too much for the GPU, but honestly, the chipsets probably need the least cooling of the whole group, thus the reason I would put them last in the loop. Even with getting the warmer water from the cpu and gpu, they should still fair better than if they were on air.


----------



## t_ski (Oct 28, 2007)

Wile E said:


> ...the chipsets probably need the least cooling of the whole group, thus the reason I would put them last in the loop. Even with getting the warmer water from the cpu and gpu, they should still fair better than if they were on air.





> pump>CPU>GPU>NB>SB>Rad>Res>Pump.



That way makes the most sense as far as temps go, but the way you have it run looks the neatest. If that D-tek block is the impingment type, then I believe that it should definitely be first.  The rest go with what works from there.  If the GPU block is the impingment type, too, then either you should have it second, or else consider going with a higher flow pump.  The MCP350/355 pump has a great head and works extremely well on a 3/8" system.  However, the MCP650/655 has a higher flow rate and is probably ideal for a 1/2" loop.

Right now with your loop running through all the other blocks before it gets to your CPU explains why the idle temps are higher.


----------



## intel igent (Oct 28, 2007)

order does not matter in a closed loop as temps will equalize.

largest contributor to reduced temps = RADIATOR 

.


----------



## oily_17 (Oct 28, 2007)

intel igent said:


> largest contributor to reduced temps = RADIATOR
> 
> .



Yes.... but then the coolest liquid goes to the CPU first..or does that matter ..or is it the ability of the coolant to reduce/absorb heat from your block that matters?

Will it not heat up/reduce it's ability to absorb heat as it travels through the loop?

EDIT:This has been talked about already;I'm lazy didn't read other posts.


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## t_ski (Oct 28, 2007)

Actually, what happens in a loop is the coolant removes the heat from the components. This warmed up coolant continues through the loop picking up more heat if additional components are installed in the loop.  When it gets to the radiator, the process of blowing cooler air over the rad removes the excess heat, thereby bringing cooler coolant to the first component in the loop.

That's the whole point of watercooling - it removes more heat from the system, not "equalizes to a lower temperature."


----------



## intel igent (Oct 28, 2007)

t_ski said:


> Actually, what happens in a loop is the coolant removes the heat from the components. This warmed up coolant continues through the loop picking up more heat if additional components are installed in the loop.  When it gets to the radiator, the process of blowing cooler air over the rad removes the excess heat, thereby bringing cooler coolant to the first component in the loop.
> 
> That's the whole point of watercooling - it removes more heat from the system, not "equalizes to a lower temperature."



WRONG. have a read through these forums/subforums.

http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/index.php

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=70

http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/forumdisplay.php?f=181

http://www.over-clock.com/ivb/index.php?showforum=24



EDIT: i think im not understanding ur post fully. i could be wrong. those links are a wealth of info for watercooling. the RAD is the MAJOR factor to cooling ability in a watercooled system. a watercooling system ALWAYS reaches an equillibrium.


----------



## t_ski (Oct 28, 2007)

I will check out those posts when I have some time, but I believe the equilibrium you speak of is the heat output of the system and the ability of the rad to cool it back down.  I'm not saying that the water coming out of the rad is 10C cooler than the water going into the rad, but what I'm saying is that the coolest point would be after the rad.  The whole point of water or air is to remove the heat from the object (heatsink, waterblock, car engine, etc.).  The air or the water is the medium in which the heat is removed.  In that process, the medium gets hotter.  With air, the case needs new fresh cooler air to replace the hot air it expells, or the system will continue to get hotter.  With water, the radiator uses fans to expell the heat from the rad, thereby coolong off the liquid/coolant inside the loop.  If the fans weren't there to remove the heat, the water loop would continue to get hotter as well.

You are correct in that a radiator is a major factor in the cooling loop, since it is responsible for removing the heat.  If you have too much heat in the loop, and the radiator is not able to remove it effectively, the loop will continue to get hotter and will not work correctly.  However, some other contributing factors are flow rate, head pressure, and the type of blocks that are used in the system.  Using the wrong kind of blocks with certain pumps will lead to ineffective cooling as well.


----------



## Wile E (Oct 28, 2007)

t_ski said:


> The MCP350/355 pump has a great head and works extremely well on a 3/8" system.  However, the MCP650/655 has a higher flow rate and is probably ideal for a 1/2" loop.


The MCP650/655s don't have a higher head and flow rate than the MCP350/355 with a petra's top, which is what he has.


----------



## Dr. Spankenstein (Oct 29, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> lol well I guess its not done  i'll do it like you said if it doesnt help you have to give me your card
> 
> cuz I just checked I still got 7-9ft. new unused tubing
> 
> ...




Sorry! Didn't mean to cause more work/time/headache to your project!
I just wanted to get you as cool as possible! I do realy like the look of your loop, I guess it's just not as effective that way. Your call....

BTW, I took Tatty's advice and "strap be damned" I took my e6600 to 3.8!


----------



## t_ski (Oct 29, 2007)

Wile E said:


> The MCP650/655s don't have a higher head and flow rate than the MCP350/355 with a petra's top, which is what he has.



I know the MCP350/355 has a higher head stock than the MCP650/655, and I know the opposite is true for flow rate at stock.  However, I didn't see in his specs or in the thread how he modded the top, although I could tell it wasn't stock due to the fact the tubes were no longer side by side.  I was posting based off of stock data, so my appologies for seeming incorrect.


----------



## intel igent (Oct 29, 2007)

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=150733

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=150322

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=151627

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=140851&highlight=mod+ddc+top

some pump charts and mods for both swiftech and laing pumps. also a flowrate estimator for those that are curious.



im still wrong?!?!?


----------



## KennyT772 (Oct 29, 2007)

For the discusion on loop order, it does matter. 

You all know with air based cooling the lowest temp acheivable is ambient. Since the water is cooled by air the same holds true there. 
So you take this water, at ambient temp (say 20c), and run it over a hot cpu (adding 5c of heat). This will warm the water due to the absorbtion of energy. Next is the gpu. The ambient temp for that is whatever the temp of the coolant (20c air + 5c cpu = 25c lowest attainable gpu temp). Next is the rad which removes the energy from the water, (cpu + gpu). 

Say this loop was reversed. The ambient temp for the cpu would no longer be the temp of air, but whatever temp the water is after the gpu. The overall water temp would still be the same as you are still removing the same amount of total energy, however the first part cooled will always have a larger temp delta vs if the part was last in the loop.


----------



## DOM (Nov 3, 2007)

well since my pump died I got a new pump Swiftech MCP655 12v DC Pump and it looks lil big but I think its going to fit where I had my other pump and going to be putting MX-2 on CPU, GPU, NB, SB and changing the oder of the loop to Res>Pump>Rad>CPU>GPU>NB>SB>Res


----------



## DOM (Nov 3, 2007)

Well im not to happy with the out come 

Before (Res>Pump>SB>GPU>NB>CPU>Rad>Res>Pump) MX-1






After (Res>Pump>Rad>CPU>GPU>NB>SB>Res) MX-2


----------



## DOM (Nov 3, 2007)

but i'll let the mx-2 cure and see if it goes lower


----------



## t_ski (Nov 3, 2007)

Well, I just put my watercooling loop back in my rig (first time for the Intel setup).  I know mine's a different mobo, and a GO CPU, but with everything at stock and only the CPU being cooled by the rad, I'm getting near ambient temps on idle.  Of course, it's cold here and the furnace is on, but the temps kicked down on the thermostat for the night.


----------



## DOM (Nov 3, 2007)

t_ski said:


> Well, I just put my watercooling loop back in my rig (first time for the Intel setup).  I know mine's a different mobo, and a GO CPU, but with everything at stock and only the CPU being cooled by the rad, I'm getting near ambient temps on idle.  Of course, it's cold here and the furnace is on, but the temps kicked down on the thermostat for the night.



isnt coretemp the only one to read the temps on a GO cores 

well it went down lil lol 

its a 3GHz right might try it to see how much the GO's are cooler

and rooms about 69F


----------



## t_ski (Nov 3, 2007)

I was just going by the cpu temp there not the core temps.  And yeah, it's a G0 - that's the reasons I bought it


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## DOM (Nov 3, 2007)

t_ski said:


> I was just going by the cpu temp there not the core temps.  And yeah, it's a G0 - that's the reasons I bought it



oh lol mines at  26c CPU with 1.35v cores  33c whats yours at load with ORTHOS Small ?


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## tkpenalty (Nov 3, 2007)

intel igent said:


> WRONG. have a read through these forums/subforums.
> 
> http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/index.php
> 
> ...



What He was saying was that the order DOES matter. Water cooling is a daisy chain, 

water goes into loop > removes heat from GPU > heated water > removes heat from CPU, goes back to rad. 

That means the CPU's cooling performance is somewhat worse, due to the heated water transferring some heat to the waterblock itself. The radiator is there to just bring the water temperatures back down by dissipating heat. If we were to operate under your logic, there wouldn't be a need for a radiator in the loop!

If we reverse the setup, the CPU gets the "fresh" water, which means that it will run cooler. The GPU will run warmer, but not by much however, due to the fact that the CPU doesn't generate much heat normally (Unless you're overclocking though...)

The order IS important.


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## t_ski (Nov 3, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> oh lol mines at  26c CPU with 1.35v cores  33c whats yours at load with ORTHOS Small ?



32c


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## Dr. Spankenstein (Nov 3, 2007)

DOM,

Is 34C your idle temp? Judging by the 1.53Vcore you are going to be making some heat. What is your OC, still @ 3.6? If your ambient is 20C (69F) your delta is about 14C, you'd have to give the details of the rest of your setup while you're getting those temps. (ie. GPU OC, MCH volts, etc.) That pump is going to add a little more heat dump than the old one, just to help explain the temps.


Fill us in on the whole scenario and let's see what's happenin'!


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## intel igent (Nov 11, 2007)

http://www.overclockers.com/articles1088/

heres the link 4 ya.

no point in me being lazzzzzzy.


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## t_ski (Nov 11, 2007)

> The order of components makes a difference of less than 0.5ºC in most watercooling systems. The physics:
> 
> pump---->radiator---->CPU---->pump
> pump---->CPU---->radiator---->pump


That's only with a basic loop, though.  When you start adding extra blocks, the last block in the series is going to have all the heat from the other blocks as well.  When it gets to the rad, the rad and fans remove the heat and it starts all over again.


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## intel igent (Nov 11, 2007)

wat r u saying exactly? be more specific.

r u arguing with wat marci, cathar, billA and everyother watercooling guru have posted?

it is a MOOT point. the most recorded difference would b like .2-.3 deg c (.5deg MAX) which equals to what? SFA!  

shortest lengths of tube and least amount of bends are key when building/designing ur loop.


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## DOM (Nov 11, 2007)

*pic of the new loop*

been lazy to post it lol


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## intel igent (Nov 11, 2007)

lookin nice 

temps better or worse?


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## DOM (Nov 11, 2007)

intel igent said:


> lookin nice
> 
> temps better or worse?



well right now the cores are the same but the cpu is 1c cooler lol but its hotter in here right now let me get my temp gage to see what the room temp is at 

http://forums.techpowerup.com/showpost.php?p=518335&postcount=149


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## intel igent (Nov 11, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> http://forums.techpowerup.com/showpost.php?p=518335&postcount=149



thats ur current temps and order?


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## DOM (Nov 11, 2007)

intel igent said:


> thats ur current temps and order?



no that was before and after, bottom one is how the loop is now (Res>Pump>Rad>CPU>GPU>NB>SB>Res) MX-2

current temp is with room temp 77f with 42% humidity


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