# CPU lapping



## Intervention (Apr 13, 2019)

I want to improve my cpu cooling but i dont want to use liquid metal either. is lapping a CPU a good idea? I have the same CPU as this guy:


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## Vya Domus (Apr 13, 2019)

Probably a major waste of time.


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## Intervention (Apr 13, 2019)

Vya Domus said:


> Probably a major waste of time.


Why do you think that? Too much work or is it risky?


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## Vya Domus (Apr 13, 2019)

Harry Palms said:


> Why do you think that? Too much work or is it risky?



I guess it's risky because you might bend the pins (if it's an AMD chip). But that's not really it, people have tried this over and over and the results have varied from absolutely no change to maybe a couple of degrees. Question is, are you really that thermally limited such that this is the last option you have ?


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## Intervention (Apr 13, 2019)

Vya Domus said:


> I guess it's risky because you might bend the pins (if it's an AMD chip). But that's not really it, people have tried this over and over and the results have varied from absolutely no change to maybe a couple of degrees. Question is, are you really that thermally limited such that this is the last option you have ?


 I have a good AIO, the Corsair H100x, and using TG Kryonaut TIM. There is plenty of ventilation also. I am running the AMD R7 2700 at 1.425v. Clocked at 4.2Ghz all cores. Temperatures are in the low 80's. I saw a video by Der8uer also where he lapped a cpu and gain about -5c! Thats major in terms of cooling for overclocking.


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## Vya Domus (Apr 13, 2019)

If you thinks it's worthwhile go ahead.

A 5c difference wouldn't mean anything to me if I had no problems anyway such as thermal throttling or anything like that. And it's really unlikely that 5c will get you a higher overclock.


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## ShiBDiB (Apr 13, 2019)

It sounds like your mind is already made up? Why even make this thread


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## HUSKIE (Apr 13, 2019)

It's soldered Cpu.



Harry Palms said:


> Why do you think that? Too much work or is it risky?



Try it and you will find how it goes.


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## dorsetknob (Apr 13, 2019)

Harry Palms said:


> I'm leaving this site after this comment. I think this post really shows where TPU stands. Stupid libs.


Welcome Back  
you won't gain any appreciable drop in temp


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## eidairaman1 (Apr 13, 2019)

Are the ihs soldered on for AMD?

By the way use Thermalgrizzly Kryonaut, Geil GC Extreme Cooler Master Gel Maker, Arctic Cooling MX 4 or Arctic Silver 5


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## newtekie1 (Apr 14, 2019)

eidairaman1 said:


> Are the ihs soldered on for AMD?



The CPUs are soldered the APUs use paste.


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## TheoneandonlyMrK (Apr 14, 2019)

Harry Palms said:


> I have a good AIO, the Corsair H100x, and using TG Kryonaut TIM. There is plenty of ventilation also. I am running the AMD R7 2700 at 1.425v. Clocked at 4.2Ghz all cores. Temperatures are in the low 80's. I saw a video by Der8uer also where he lapped a cpu and gain about -5c! Thats major in terms of cooling for overclocking.


I got about that -5°c lapping an fx8350 but its IHS was quite concaved , i couldn't guess on the gains with Ryzen though since monoblocks are made for stock IHS i didn't lap this one.


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## infrared (Apr 14, 2019)

I still haven't got my pc back together yet, but here's my lapped 1800X. The heatspreader was fairly concave so under heavy load it usually around 75c.. Not a big deal but considering that's on decent watercooling I'd prefer it to be cooler. 

I thought about ways to protect the pins but in the end I just used 3 fingers spread across all the pins with light contact and didn't bend any.


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## MrGenius (Apr 14, 2019)

That right there is how it's done!^^^

Anyhow...don't spend the time to do a ultra-fine lap job and then use Kryonaut. That shit will RUIN all your hard work. I don't know for sure what's in it(I HIGHLY suspect it to be nano-diamonds). But whatever it is, it might as well be beach sand. It will pit and scratch your surfaces SEVERELY.

FYI: Thermalright just released some TIMs that have better W/mK than Kryonaut. I haven't tried them yet. Hopefully they aren't nano-diamond filled too. That shit's just not safe for mating surfaces. None of it. Every nano-diamond paste I've used caused damage to one degree or another. Kryonaut being the worst...BY FAR. So it either has nano-diamonds in it...or something even worse.

TFX 14.3 W/mK
TF8 13.4 w/mK
TF6 12.5 w/mK(same as Kryonaut)


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## TheoneandonlyMrK (Apr 14, 2019)

infrared said:


> I still haven't got my pc back together yet, but here's my lapped 1800X. The heatspreader was fairly concave so under heavy load it usually around 75c.. Not a big deal but considering that's on decent watercooling I'd prefer it to be cooler.
> 
> I thought about ways to protect the pins but in the end I just used 3 fingers spread across all the pins with light contact and didn't bend any.
> 
> ...


I got a foam pad with a cpu once ,the perfect size for most cpus , quite firm foam i push the cpu into it.


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## infrared (Apr 14, 2019)

MrGenius said:


> That right there is how it's done!^^^
> 
> Anyhow...don't spend the time to do a ultra-fine lap job and then use Kryonaut. That shit will RUIN all your hard work. I don't know for sure what's in it(I HIGHLY suspect it to be nano-diamonds). But whatever it is, it might as well be beach sand. It will pit and scratch your surfaces SEVERELY.


Ahh I wondered why my waterblock had some mild pitting in it after a couple of years, I was blaming myself for getting some contaminants on it or something. Oh well, still my favourite paste.

Edit - will check out those other pastes tho, ty


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## MrGenius (Apr 14, 2019)

Thermalright also has some liquid metal that's got better W/mK than Conductonaut too. But I can't find their product page for it(I did order some on Newegg a few days ago though).

Silver King Liquid Metal 79 W/mK




Also picked up a tube of DEBROGLIE liquid metal recently that's >128 W/mK. Haven't tried it yet though. Saving it for a special occasion.

Yes...I am a MAJOR TIM snob.


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## FreedomEclipse (Apr 14, 2019)

dorsetknob said:


> Welcome Back
> you won't gain any appreciable drop in temp


Don't be so quick to palm him off


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## Susquehannock (Apr 17, 2019)

Vya Domus said:


> I guess it's risky because you might bend the pins (if it's an AMD chip). But that's not really it, people have tried this over and over and the results have varied from absolutely no change to maybe a couple of degrees. Question is, are you really that thermally limited such that this is the last option you have ?


^^ This exactly. Is your system running hot and throttling? Or are you trying to lower temps a few degrees in hopes of increasing longevity? Only you can determine whether the time and effort is worth it.

Varied improvements (if at all) after lapping are almost certainly caused by differences in flatness from CPU to CPU. No two will be exactly same. Below is my Xeon W3680 as example. Heatspreader was far from flat. Starting with wet 400 grit paper on a mirror, high spots in shape of a capital letter "I" became immediately apparent and was obvious I would be there all day. So switched to 120 grit to speed things up. Finished with wet 2,000 grit. When you get into surfaces like this TIM particle size becomes more an issue. Are they small enough to drop into micro imperfections in the mirror-like surface? Or will they sit on top and prevent the metal surfaces from touching much as they could? Which is what we want in an ideal situation - direct metal to metal contact.

Now the question is ... did this improve my temps? Hard to say since small drop perceived was well within margin of error. Switching to Kryonaut already dropped temps a few degrees over the AS5, and several degrees lower than standard white paste, even before lapping.

As for diamonds. I don't think Kryonaut employs them otherwise it would be a big marketing point.  More likely they use Aluminum Oxide (aka - alumina) like most other ceramic non-metallic or silicone based TIMs. Excellent thermal conductivity, inexpensive, and readily available since significant portion of Earth's crust (read: 'bauxite')  is comprised of it. And by the way. Aluminum Oxide is a very common abrasive and probably what is used on the sandpaper you will be lapping with. So no wonder it scars CPU surfaces.


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## Bones (Apr 17, 2019)

I normally just use Ceramique 5 for everyday stuff and it works, sometimes I'll breakout the Noctua NT-H1 and use it instead.

In terms of an everyday build there isn't enough difference between TIM's to worry about it alot as long as it's a good quality TIM and applied correctly.

Kryonaut for example is geared more for extreme OC'ing and speaking of the diamonds or whatever else extreme OC'ers aren't looking for longevity of a CPU, they are looking for MHz so longevity isn't a concern.
That's why it's made the way it is.

Works for everyday stuff but (For me) too expensive to justify using it for everyday stuff when there are cheaper alternatives out there that would do about as well anyway in an everyday scenario, not to mention the bad side effects of it's use as mentioned above.
If you want to use Kryonaut you certainly can but personally I don't.

MX4 is a good TIM to use and not too expensive, have some of that here too and it's the newer version with carbon.  https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAGXK92Y6326
Or this: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAGTU91U5187

EDIT: 
The actual stuff I got earlier: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4YU92X0379


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## delshay (Apr 17, 2019)

If you really want to lap a pinned CPU, then I strongly recommend getting a CPU socket. Either buy one or cut one from a dead motherboard.
This way you have taken away any risk of bending or breaking any pins. This is what I do & is standard when I lap any pinned CPU.


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## delshay (Feb 9, 2021)

Here's a bit of a shocker.

Iv been doing a new CPU modification never seen before (to be uploaded to the GHETTO THREAD)), but this is not the reason why I'm posting in this old thread.

Every time I change the Liquid Metal Compound I use a brillo pad to scrub the surface of the CPU core. With the new modification in place I'm thinking I have broken the the CPU as there is a strange reading to ground from the heatsink. I was then thinking part of the modification is shorting to the IHS..

After a long check I found the CPU core, the part where all of us put our thermal paste has become conductive, ie it's out putting 21.2mv. I did not know this part can become conductive. I check three other CPUs, it's not conductive,. So it looks like if you lap the core it will become conductive. at some point, at lease it does here on a single CPU.


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## Durvelle27 (Feb 9, 2021)

With these type of questions


My answer is always it's only worth as much as you say its worth 

The risk of damaging the CPU is much higher than the gains you may or may not achieve


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## FreedomEclipse (Feb 9, 2021)

If youre talking about scrubbing the bare cpu die with a brillo pad - i think thats where you messed up.

Im not that smart but im sure that CPUs usually come with some sort of protective coating/layer similar to varnish that protects the die to a certain extent. By using the brillo pad you have worn away this protective layer and the LM has been absorbed by the CPU itself and become conductive.

The pad on a brillo sponge is quite a hard and abrasive, normally used to scrub chunks of left over food off plates and burnt chunks off cookware. Some cotton swaps or soft tissue and isopropyl alcohol would have worked just fine on the CPU


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## Valantar (Feb 9, 2021)

delshay said:


> Here's a bit of a shocker.
> 
> Iv been doing a new CPU modification never seen before (to be uploaded to the GHETTO THREAD)), but this is not the reason why I'm posting in this old thread.
> 
> ...


What do you mean by "CPU core"? The IHS? The die? If it's the IHS, it's copper, so that sounds like you've gotten something conductive between it, some voltage rail, and it might be shorting to ground through the heatsink. If you mean the die itself, then yes, sanding that down will eventually expose the conductive innards of the CPU.


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## P4-630 (Feb 9, 2021)

Harry Palms said:


> is lapping a CPU a good idea?



I did it in the past with a Intel E2200 and a E7200.
Can't remember the temp differences though.


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## JalleR (Feb 9, 2021)

Well if you want to go all the way then do it,


i have done it on 4 CPU's so fare
My brothers 7820k it dropped 10C, my own 5930K dropped 15c and my 6900k dropped 10 ish, and it is so easy to do that i did it for fun on my Home server CPU i7-4771 just because why not. (the last 2 cpu's was done without any motorized tools  )

The first 3 cpu's was/is custom loop cooled

If you are handy then it will go well but watch out for those pins,
Reason for not using motorized tools: i launched my 5930k into a wood plate so hard that it bounced back in to the glass plate that i had mounted on a drill (for the sanding process) so it broke into a million pieces, it got a serious dent but it survived 
(Maybe the problem is my skills for combining stuff with a motorized tool )


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## ThrashZone (Feb 9, 2021)

P4-630 said:


> I did it in the past with a Intel E2200 and a E7200.
> Can't remember the temp differences though.


Hi,
Lapping usually only tightens core temperature spread seeing the top of a cpu can be pretty wonky and flattening it at least give it something better for a cooler to mate too of course some coolers are designed to not be flat.


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## Valantar (Feb 9, 2021)

It's fascinating how people are just blithely responding to the OP and not the necro, despite the OP being from nearly two years ago


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## P4-630 (Feb 9, 2021)

Valantar said:


> It's fascinating how people are just blithely responding to the OP and not the necro, despite the OP being from nearly two years ago



I usually look at the posting dates, this time I didn't...


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## ThrashZone (Feb 9, 2021)

Valantar said:


> What do you mean by "CPU core"? The IHS? The die? If it's the IHS, it's copper, so that sounds like you've gotten something conductive between it, some voltage rail, and it might be shorting to ground through the heatsink. If you mean the die itself, then yes, sanding that down will eventually expose the conductive innards of the CPU.





Valantar said:


> It's fascinating how people are just blithely responding to the OP and not the necro, despite the OP being from nearly two years ago


Hi,
Doesn't look like you caught it either from your first post lol yes fascinating indeed


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## Valantar (Feb 9, 2021)

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Doesn't look like you caught it either from your first post lol yes fascinating indeed


Uhm, I was responding to the necro.... Did you read the post? Did you see who I quoted? Did you check the date on the post I quoted?


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## ThrashZone (Feb 9, 2021)

Valantar said:


> Uhm, I was responding to the necro.... Did you read the post? Did you see who I quoted? Did you check the date on the post I quoted?


Hi,
Yeah you didn't say anything about how old the thread was so cudos for not noticing too.


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## Valantar (Feb 9, 2021)

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah you didn't say anything about how old the thread was so cudos for not noticing too.


Oh jeez. Please reread. Here, I'll quote it for you:


Valantar said:


> It's fascinating how people are just blithely responding to the OP and not the necro, despite the OP being from nearly two years ago


See? I said it's funny that people are _responding to the OP and not the necro_, not that they didn't notice at all. I responded to the necropost and only that, as I did indeed spot the 2-year-old date and wondered "Hm, I wonder what has happened to bring this up to the recent threads column." Lo and behold, it was the post I responded to. Almost as if I knew, no?


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## delshay (Feb 9, 2021)

Valantar said:


> What do you mean by "CPU core"? The IHS? The die? If it's the IHS, it's copper, so that sounds like you've gotten something conductive between it, some voltage rail, and it might be shorting to ground through the heatsink. If you mean the die itself, then yes, sanding that down will eventually expose the conductive innards of the CPU.



The modification I did to the CPU has nothing to do with the flat part of the CPU, but yet it now has resistance to ground. This is clearly not normal , but the CPU is working fine.

The IHS is soldered to the heatsink (old experiment), so the complete IHS & heatsink is conductive & gives out a voltage reading. This mean if the heatsink come into contact with ground, something is going to fail or get burnt. The voltage can only be coming from the flat part of the CPU.

If I take out the CPU put the DMM direct to the flat part where we normally put thermal paste (mine has LM still present) & touch almost any pin with the negative terminal on the back of the CPU it now has a resistance reading. I have never seen this before, first time today.


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## Valantar (Feb 9, 2021)

delshay said:


> The modification I did to the CPU has nothing to do with the flat part of the CPU, but yet it now has resistance to ground. This is clearly not normal , but the CPU is working fine.
> 
> The IHS is soldered to the heatsink (old experiment), so the complete IHS & heatsink is conductive give out a voltage reading. This mean if the heatsink come into contact with ground, something is going to fail or get burnt. The voltage can only be coming from the flat part of the CPU.
> 
> If I take out the CPU put the DMM direct to the flat part where we normally put thermal paste (mine has LM still present) & touch almost any pin with the negative terminal on the back of the CPU it now has a resistance reading. I have never seen this before, first time today.


Your wording is still vague and hard to grasp. By "the flat part of the CPU", do you mean the die? As in the little dark square in the middle of a pic like this (yes, I know that's an Intel chip)? That's the die. 

If you've been sanding and scrubbing the die, it's no wonder you're getting a voltage reading off it. You've likely worn down the diffusion barrier on top of the silicon sufficiently for it to be really, really thin, but not thin enough to actually cause a short, and then liquid metal has probably diffused into this to provide a path for voltage to flow. I would expect this to mean the CPU will die relatively shortly, as a process like this once progressed this far is unlikely to just stop and stay where it is. If the diffusion barrier fails entirely, you'll effectively have exposed the inner workings of the die, making the surface conductive and making it highly likely that your LM will diffuse into the core itself, causing it to fundamentally change its molecular makeup.


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## JalleR (Feb 9, 2021)

Valantar said:


> It's fascinating how people are just blithely responding to the OP and not the necro, despite the OP being from nearly two years ago


LOL yes i didnt look at the date of the OP 

Well is sounds like your liquid metal has worked its way to the backside of the IHS and is creating conduction between the core and the IHS or maybe the Cpu pcb and IHS.


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## delshay (Feb 9, 2021)

Valantar said:


> Your wording is still vague and hard to grasp. By "the flat part of the CPU", do you mean the die? As in the little dark square in the middle of a pic like this (yes, I know that's an Intel chip)? That's the die.
> 
> If you've been sanding and scrubbing the die, it's no wonder you're getting a voltage reading off it. You've likely worn down the diffusion barrier on top of the silicon sufficiently for it to be really, really thin, but not thin enough to actually cause a short, and then liquid metal has probably diffused into this to provide a path for voltage to flow. I would expect this to mean the CPU will die relatively shortly, as a process like this once progressed this far is unlikely to just stop and stay where it is. If the diffusion barrier fails entirely, you'll effectively have exposed the inner workings of the die, making the surface conductive and making it highly likely that your LM will diffuse into the core itself, causing it to fundamentally change its molecular makeup.


Yes, I mean the die.

I don't go out of my way to sand down the die, I just that I use the brillo pad to clean it before I apply new LM compound.

The CPU die itself is outputting a voltage. & because the IHS is soldered to the heatsink, the whole complete assembly now has a voltage reading.


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## Valantar (Feb 9, 2021)

delshay said:


> Yes, I mean the die.
> 
> I don't go out of my way to sand down the die, I just that I use the brillo pad to clean it before I apply new LM compound.
> 
> The CPU die itself is outputting a voltage. & because the IHS is soldered to the heatsink, the whole complete assembly now has a voltage reading.


Yep, as I suspected. Like I said, you've likely worn down the diffusion barrier sufficiently that it's no longer acting as an insulator. I would expect the chip to start throwing random errors and die (no pun intended), though I have no idea how quickly or slowly that will happen.


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## mouacyk (Feb 9, 2021)

dooit


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## delshay (Feb 10, 2021)

Valantar said:


> Yep, as I suspected. Like I said, you've likely worn down the diffusion barrier sufficiently that it's no longer acting as an insulator. I would expect the chip to start throwing random errors and die (no pun intended), though I have no idea how quickly or slowly that will happen.



I don't think all what you are saying is 100% correct, as I'm not constantly using the brillo pad. Yes I do use it to shave a bit off the die, but only when cleaning which is not that often.

This is what I think has happen.

When mounting the cooler I may have cracked or chipped the edge of the CPU die. This could have also happened when using the brillo pad. I have to remove the LM & check the die for micro cracks to confirm.

The CPU is on test for more that a day now, all seems well.   ..I can't tell if the latest new hardware modification is working, because it could also be because the IHS/heatsink has a voltage reading, It could be rejecting outside interference..  ..I can confirm, "stability is up".

Look on the bright side, have I accidently created the worlds first CPU/heatsink combo that has shielding technology built-in.   ..Have a good giggle here.


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## bobbybluz (Feb 10, 2021)

As a former machinist I have to say getting the top of a heatspreader anywhere near close to perfectly flat by hand is impossible. At one time years ago I discussed the idea of using a milling machine on an AMD FX-4000 with my former supervisor. We checked to top with a Starrett dial indicator with the CPU mounted in a test fixture for checking specs on small precision parts. The variance was so tiny we concluded it'd be a total waste of time and effort. You'll never come close to what a milling machine can do by hand. Also, thin surfaces flex under pressure and they don't do it evenly.


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## hat (Feb 10, 2021)

bobbybluz said:


> As a former machinist I have to say getting the top of a heatspreader anywhere near close to perfectly flat by hand is impossible. At one time years ago I discussed the idea of using a milling machine on an AMD FX-4000 with my former supervisor. We checked to top with a Starrett dial indicator with the CPU mounted in a test fixture for checking specs on small precision parts. The variance was so tiny we concluded it'd be a total waste of time and effort. You'll never come close to what a milling machine can do by hand. Also, thin surfaces flex under pressure and they don't do it evenly.


My own personal experience seems to disagree with this. There's always gains to be had by lapping, even if they're not always the greatest. Plenty of crappy surfaces have been fixed by hand as well.


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## delshay (Feb 10, 2021)

I have found the problem. It looks like I chipped the edge of the die when testing different heatsink, but it may have also been there before & I may of not notice it. I only carried out a DMM test for the first time due to CPU hardware changes, so it may have been present there for many years. 
Anyway there is a tiny chip in one corner but the die does not look cracked, so I completed the CPU modification in full & I have it on test again checking for errors & all functions/features of the CPU are working.


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## ThrashZone (Feb 11, 2021)

delshay said:


> I have found the problem. It looks like I chipped the edge of the die when testing different heatsink, but it may have also been there before & I may of not notice it. I only carried out a DMM test for the first time due to CPU hardware changes, so it may have been present there for many years.
> Anyway there is a tiny chip in one corner but the die does not look cracked, so I completed the CPU modification in full & I have it on test again checking for errors & all functions/features of the CPU are working.


Hi,
Didn't even take an image of the damage :/


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## Nuckles56 (Feb 11, 2021)

bobbybluz said:


> As a former machinist I have to say getting the top of a heatspreader anywhere near close to perfectly flat by hand is impossible. At one time years ago I discussed the idea of using a milling machine on an AMD FX-4000 with my former supervisor. We checked to top with a Starrett dial indicator with the CPU mounted in a test fixture for checking specs on small precision parts. The variance was so tiny we concluded it'd be a total waste of time and effort. You'll never come close to what a milling machine can do by hand. Also, thin surfaces flex under pressure and they don't do it evenly.


My experience also disagrees with this, I've flattened surfaces to very impressive tolerances with just sandpaper and a sheet of glass by hand and a lot of time. I've never done it with a CPU but there's no reason it wouldn't be the same with them as long are you're careful.


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## delshay (Feb 11, 2021)

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Didn't even take an image of the damage :/



I was thinking of uploading image to the GHETTO THREAD as the modification does not belong in this thread. If & when uploaded you can see everything. Modification is something never been done before to this extreme. So it will never be copied (one off).

CPU is working fine sofar, so the chip in the corner may have always been there.


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## ShrimpBrime (Feb 11, 2021)

bobbybluz said:


> As a former machinist I have to say getting the top of a heatspreader anywhere near close to perfectly flat by hand is impossible. At one time years ago I discussed the idea of using a milling machine on an AMD FX-4000 with my former supervisor. We checked to top with a Starrett dial indicator with the CPU mounted in a test fixture for checking specs on small precision parts. The variance was so tiny we concluded it'd be a total waste of time and effort. You'll never come close to what a milling machine can do by hand. Also, thin surfaces flex under pressure and they don't do it evenly.


We always did it to

1. remove nickel plating
2. better mating surfaces ( sand the cooler and cpu plates )
3. show and tell.

Started de-lidding back in 09. I don't think I've sanded a cpu (IHS plate) since then. Direct Die, just about every single Cpu I've had since.


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## lexluthermiester (Feb 11, 2021)

Harry Palms said:


> I have a good AIO, the Corsair H100x, and using TG Kryonaut TIM. There is plenty of ventilation also. I am running the AMD R7 2700 at 1.425v. Clocked at 4.2Ghz all cores. Temperatures are in the low 80's. I saw a video by Der8uer also where he lapped a cpu and gain about -5c! Thats major in terms of cooling for overclocking.


It would be easier and far more effective to drop the ambient temps in the room you run the PC in. Get a window mounted AC and crank it down to 55 or 60 degrees F then turn the fans on the cooler up a few notches to get a better cooling effect going on.

Lapping that CPU will have very little effect on the OC you're running.


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## bobbybluz (Feb 11, 2021)

lexluthermiester said:


> It would be easier and far more effective to drop the ambient temps in the room you run the PC in. Get a window mounted AC and crank it down to 55 or 60 degrees F then turn the fans on the cooler up a few notches to get a better cooling effect going on.
> 
> Lapping that CPU will have very little effect on the OC you're running.


I have central A/C and in the summer having my AIO cooled PC's in front of the A/C vents works great. If I want them cooler I turn the A.C temp down. Extremely effective. Now that's it's winter here I have the central heat set at 64 degrees F. My overclocked Xeons (and non-overclockable E5 2683 V4) and i7 Extreme Editions stay nice and cool under load even though my wife complains it's too cold in the house once in a while.


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