# Finally!! Going to Water, But need some Help Picking the Parts :D



## DOM (Apr 8, 2007)

So wut do you think ?

Purchased

D-TEK FuZion Universal CPU Waterblock - 1/2"
http://www.petrastechshop.com/dfuuncpubl1.html

D-Tek FuZion GFX GPU Waterblock
http://www.petrastechshop.com/dfugfxgpuwa.html

2X Swiftech MCW30 Chipset Water-block  
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=241&products_id=4042

Danger Den Bay Reservoir High-Density Polyethylene 
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=51

PrimoChill Radiator Xtreme Series 360
http://www.moddersmart.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=30017

Laing DDC w/ Petra'sTech DDCT-01s Top Combo
http://www.petrastechshop.com/laddcwpeddto.html

2X Alphacool Heattrap RegCooler Asus SLI
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=241&products_id=4519


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## Kursah (Apr 8, 2007)

Good luck to ya man! I'm stickin to air for now, but I'm gonna keep an eye on your project and see how well it works out...ya never know I could change my mind too!


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## Wile E (Apr 8, 2007)

I would definitely go for the full coverage block for your vid card, but only if you don't plan on upgrading to a DX10 card in the near future. If you do plan on going DX10, Then I say go for the universal Dangerden block.

The DangerDen cpu waterblock you picked out performs extremely well. I would choose that and save a few dollars over the petra part.

The petra pump has better specs than the Dangerden part. I would personally go for it.

The radiator you picked will out perform the GTS 3x120 models, but commands quite a price premium. The GTS model will still outperform any air solution, but if you can swing the difference in price, the choice is yours. I would get the GTS and save myself some money for something else down the road, personally.

If you get the universal GPU block, don't forget you need something to cool you card's ram. Also, double check to make sure the chipset blocks won't interfere with your video card.

Well, those are my opinions. Good luck with your build.


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## malware (Apr 8, 2007)

Definitely buy from Petra's shop...one of the best etailers when talking about water cooling. Second, go with the Fusion block, the other DD TDX Block is a value mainstream performance block, while the D-tek Fusion is one of the best water blocks at the moment. The Laing D5 pump is a must when watercooling(good choice), here's the link:http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcin12pu.html. The DDC-12V REV2 would not be enough for a triple radiator+CPU+chipset and VGA combo. Your choice of black ice GTX 360 radiator is accurate. The video card water block is up to your personal needs. I would prefer to use the maze5 or swiftech's MCW60 because they can be mounted on multiple video cards including the 8800 series with optional mounting kits. The EK-FCX1900 Full Cover waterblock will fit only on X1800/X1900 series....


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## DOM (Apr 8, 2007)

Updated List... Well decided to go with the 12V DD-D5 Pump,{its the same as in Petras-Tech-Shop} right? just wanna make sure  

And to go with the MAZE5-GPU Block as its less and cuz theres no point to waste $125+ for just one card thats going to get replaced later down the line  

And D-TEK FuZion Universal CPU Waterblock - 1/2"

But is the ThermoChill HE120.3 a better Rat the then Black Ice GTX360 ?? 
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=46&cat=77&page=1


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## malware (Apr 8, 2007)

Thermochill is the king of watercooling radiators. You better look at the PA series though: http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=205&cat=15&page=1, since the HE series are discontinued. The Thermochill PA series are optimized to work with 100CFM+ fans...so if you seek the ultimate performance radiator and the noise from your fans is not a problem(and the $140 for the radiator itself of course) go for Thermochill. If you prefer quiet watercooling system stick with the Black Ice GTX. And finally....you won't notice any significant difference between the PA series and the GTX because of your system heat load. If you go quad-core and dual 8800 series than you'll see the difference when it comes to the radiator.


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## DOM (Apr 8, 2007)

Have you seen my specs on the fans, Cuz would the Thermaltake's Thunderblade 120mm blue-LED work with that Rat.?


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## malware (Apr 8, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> Have you seen my specs on the fans, Cuz would the Thermaltake's Thunderblade 120mm blue-LED work with that Rat.?



Every 120mm fan will fit the Thermochill radiator just fine, but you'll obtain maximum performance only with high CFM fans like I said in my last post. Most suitable fans for the Thermochill PA Series: http://www.petrastechshop.com/12yalod1cafa1.html 70CFM/33dBA


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## DOM (Apr 8, 2007)

malware said:


> Every 120mm fan will fit the Thermochill radiator just fine, but you'll obtain maximum performance only with high CFM fans like I said in my last post.



well there 78 CFM but PA Series - optimised for fans upto 100CFM and the HE Series - optimised for fans above 100CFM

well thats is I can find one  cuz how much is £48.50 in US $


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## malware (Apr 8, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> well there 78 CFM but PA Series - optimised for fans upto 100CFM and the HE Series - optimised for fans above 100CFM
> 
> well thats is I can find one  cuz how much is £48.50 in US $




1 UK£ = 1.9695 U.S. dollars, 48.50x1.97~96$


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## funkflix (Apr 8, 2007)

Pump --> http://www.petrastechshop.com/laddcwpeddto.html

GPU --> http://www.petrastechshop.com/ekfucowafora.html

Res. --> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2...al_Reservoir_-_ALUMINUM_500691.html?tl=g30c97 or http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5...ingle_35_Bay_Reservoir_-_CLEAR.html?tl=g30c97
(I'm sure you will hate that ugly DD thing one day and buy some new one, so just save the money for it..)

That is what i would buy, instead of ur choise. 

@Radiator

If u take the Thermochill PA120.3 you will need a lot of space, bcs. of the shroud, but the performance is really great! But i think i would still prefer the GTX360.


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## DOM (Apr 8, 2007)

funkflix said:


> Pump --> http://www.petrastechshop.com/laddcwpeddto.html
> 
> GPU --> http://www.petrastechshop.com/ekfucowafora.html
> 
> ...



Well I wanted a Full block for the card, but its just going to get replaced later you know, so I dont want to invest on something thats going to go to waste that cost more.

and on the Res.   I know its UGLY but I was going to Paint it BLK.  

and that pump is it better then the one above?? IDK anything about them


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## funkflix (Apr 8, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> and that pump is it better then the one above?? IDK anything about them



Imho it is better yes! 1. u have 3/8" thread on it, so u can choose which fittings u want to use(same thing counts for an other reservoir too!) 2. it is designed for watercooling systems 3. u have 10W less heat from it over the other Laing 3. it looks much better and it is smaller


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## DOM (Apr 8, 2007)

funkflix said:


> Imho it is better yes! 1. u have 3/8" thread on it, so u can choose which fittings u want to use(same thing counts for an other reservoir too!) 2. it is designed for watercooling systems 3. u have 10W less heat from it over the other Laing 3. it looks much better and it is smaller



well I'll change the Pump and theres two 3's lol 

and the 3's are you talking about the pump  

and i'll look for another RES.

oh yea do you know which RAT. is the next best one to the 360GTX thats less , or is the price worth it compared to the GTS etc.


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## funkflix (Apr 8, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> well I'll change the Pump and theres two 3's lol
> 
> and the 3's are you talking about the pump
> 
> ...



Ups..  Yes both 3s are for the pump.

I use some of this radiators: http://www.moddersmart.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=30017. A lot of resellers use this radiator, normally it is build by Magicool(http://www.magicool.biz/Magicool/RadiatorsST.html), the performance is between the Black Ices and Thermochill.


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## DOM (Apr 8, 2007)

funkflix said:


> Ups..  Yes both 3s are for the pump.
> 
> I use some of this radiators: http://www.moddersmart.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=30017. A lot of resellers use this radiator, normally it is build by Magicool(http://www.magicool.biz/Magicool/RadiatorsST.html), the performance is between the Black Ices and Thermochill.



I just looked at the review on the pump from xtremesystems that top makes it better then the stock http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=117215

That Rat. is it better then the GTX if so then i'll get one, cuz im not going to find any Thermochill and it will same me some cash


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## funkflix (Apr 8, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> I just looked at the review on the pump from xtremesystems that top makes it better then the stock http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=117215
> 
> That Rat. is it better then the GTX if so then i'll get one, cuz im not going to find any Thermochill and it will same me some cash



I'm using a modded Alphacool top, this pump is really great. 

Imho yes, but i did not tested it by myself, a german pc-magazin called hardwareluxx printed wrote that. I really like the radiators, nothing bad to say. I use 1 x 360 and 1 x 120 and my temps are really good.


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## DOM (Apr 8, 2007)

funkflix said:


> I'm using a modded Alphacool top, this pump is really great.
> 
> Imho yes, but i did not tested it by myself, a german pc-magazin called hardwareluxx printed wrote that. I really like the radiators, nothing bad to say. I use 1 x 360 and 1 x 120 and my temps are really good.



well I saw you have that 1X120 Rat. 

but on that Mag. was it just that the only Rat. tested ? or which other ones where tested or compared to with there results ?

did you ever just runed with the 1X360 ?


what about this Res.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...ucts_id=2581:af29c1ddcbaa6c3feaa12cd1cc6ed435


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## funkflix (Apr 8, 2007)

They wrote about all 3 sizes of the radiators, but there are no numbers to compare with other radiators in this quick "review", they just wrote down the performance in words. I tis your decision.. I think they are equal to the Black Ice stuff, but i'm not sure about that..

With 3 x 120mm fans on 1200rpm the delta k was 5,6k on the testsystem they used, but i do not know which system it is.. In the older release of the mag. they tested the other radiators, but i don't have this one..


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## DOM (Apr 8, 2007)

cuz would you be able to find out on there site http://www.hardwareluxx.de/

and I picked a Res. above what do you think ?


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## funkflix (Apr 8, 2007)

The reviews aren't on the website, printed exclusiv.


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## malware (Apr 8, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E don't worry about the performance of each radiator. Adding an aditional 1x120mm radiator to a system like yours won't do much. The basics of watercooling aren't like the good air cooling. Another heatpipe(radiator)=lower temps...in watercooling it depends on your system heat load. Every triple 120mm radiator can easily cool a system with even SLI graphics(I'm starting to repeat myself). With an additional radiator....all you'll do is just make your system more restrictive, temps won't drop much, maybe at all. 

The PrimoChill radiators, which funklix suggested are good, but they're based(the same) as the old Black Ice Extreme series, so I recommend choosing once again the newer revision Black ICE GTX360. According to the manufacturer the second generation of Black ICE radiators(the GTX once) have 30% increase in internal flow rates and utilize 45% thinner fin material yielding up to 50% less pressure drop than the first generation. Go here for full details.

About the reservoir, try to go with the Swiftech MCRES-Micro: http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmchire.html
Your res is not a key element in the watercooling system. It'll just help you get the bubles out of the loop, so you don't need to spend 40 bucks for a res...


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## DOM (Apr 8, 2007)

malware said:


> DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E don't worry about the performance of each radiator. Adding an aditional 1x120mm radiator to a system like yours won't do much. The basics of watercooling aren't like the good air cooling. Another heatpipe(radiator)=lower temps...in watercooling it depends on your system heat load. Every triple 120mm radiator can easily cool a system with even SLI graphics(I'm starting to repeat myself). With an additional radiator....all you'll do is just make your system more restrictive, temps won't drop much, maybe at all.
> 
> The PrimoChill radiators, which funklix suggested are good, but they're based(the same) as the old Black Ice Extreme series, so I recommend choosing once again the newer revision Black ICE GTX360. According to the manufacturer the second generation of Black ICE radiators(the GTX once) have 30% increase in internal flow rates and utilize 45% thinner fin material yielding up to 50% less pressure drop than the first generation. Go here for full details.



thanks  

But do you know which is the next best to the GTX's is it the GTS ?  Stealth GTS 360 or X-Flow Stealth GTS 360

Would you know how much better it is cuz if its not that much i'll just go for the lower to save some $$


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## funkflix (Apr 8, 2007)

malware said:


> According to the manufacturer the second generation of Black ICE radiators(the GTX once) have 30% increase in internal flow rates and utilize 45% thinner fin material yielding up to 50% less pressure drop than the first generation. Go here for full details.



According to hardwareluxx printed, the updated MagiCools have a better flowrate then the new Black Ices. But it is still DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E choise which radiator he want. Black Ice sure is a known/good brand, but i'm sure this MagiCool stuff isn't that bad.. 

My watertemps are always < 26°C, with an ambient of about 18-21°C. If he want to save some money, imho the radiator is a good choise. Time to quote you again. 



malware said:


> DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E don't worry about the performance of each radiator. Every triple 120mm radiator can easily cool a system with even SLI graphics


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## malware (Apr 8, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> thanks
> 
> But do you know which is the next best to the GTX's is it the GTS ?  Stealth GTS 360 or X-Flow Stealth GTS 360
> 
> Would you know how much better it is cuz if its not that much i'll just go for the lower to save some $$



The Black Ice series feature two models: the GTS series and the GTX series. The GTS series are the basic radiators which are 29.6mm thick(triple 120mm radiator dimensions: 133x397x29.60 mm width/height/thickness) while the GTX series are the "extreme"(better) version with 55.7mm thickness. It's easy to see that the GTX series are the better radiators. Meanwhile the X-Flow is based on the same design but it is a single pass radiator, while the GTS and the GTX series are dual pass radiators. These days everybody uses dual pass rads in watercooling loops. Next in terms of performance after the GTX comes the Thermochill PA series...as I mentioned earlier.


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## DOM (Apr 8, 2007)

funkflix said:


> According to hardwareluxx printed, the updated MagiCools have a better flowrate then the new Black Ices. But it is still DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E choise which radiator he want. Black Ice sure is a known/good brand, but i'm sure this MagiCool stuff isn't that bad..
> 
> My watertemps are always < 26°C, with an ambient of about 18-21°C. If he want to save some money, imho the radiator is a good choise. Time to quote you again.



My head hurts  why cant everything just be good and all the same  

but 18-21°C that a cool room there, Im from Texas but it still snowed 2 days ago


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## DOM (Apr 8, 2007)

malware said:


> The Black Ice series feature two models: the GTS series and the GTX series. The GTS series are the basic radiators which are 29.6mm thick(triple 120mm radiator dimensions: 133x397x29.60 mm width/height/thickness) while the GTX series are the "extreme"(better) version with 55.7mm thickness. It's easy to see that the GTX series are the better radiators. Meanwhile the X-Flow is based on the same design but it is a single pass radiator, while the GTS and the GTX series are dual pass radiators. These days everybody uses dual pass rads in watercooling loops. Next in terms of performance after the GTX comes the Thermochill PA series...as I mentioned earlier.



no, I meant which is the next lowest to the GTX  sorry if I didnt make myself cear, but the GTS's are not that thick so that PrimoChill might be good cuz its 46mm


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## DOM (Apr 8, 2007)

@ funkflix that Rad. is it a dual pass? PrimoChill


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## funkflix (Apr 8, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> @ funkflix that Rad. is it a dual pass? PrimoChill



Imho yes.



DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> but 18-21°C that a cool room there, Im from Texas but it still snowed 2 days ago



Spring is finally coming here, no need to heat the rooms anymore.


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## Wile E (Apr 9, 2007)

In my opinion dom, you should stick with the original reservoir that you picked. I much prefer urethane over acrylic for a res. Much less likely to crack. Oh, and it's cheap.

I would still opt for the DD cpu block, if it were me. The petra performs better, but is more expensive. I would use the extra money elsewhere, as the DD cpu block will suit your needs just fine. It's still a damn good block.

The regcooler also looks like it could be a potential bottleneck. Are there any reviews of it floating around? I'm just curious how big the internal passages are on it, and how well it flows.

I like the petra pump, especially since you added reg cooling to the list. The extra head will come in handy.

And again, if it were my system, I'd go with the plain ol' Black Ice GTS rad, and save myself some loot. The GTS is more than capable of cooling your system, and even any parts you're likely to throw at it in the next couple of years. Keep the extra money to use for a DX10 upgrade when you're ready. If you're absolutely not comfortable with the GTS rad, then the PrimoChill would be my second choice.


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## t_ski (Apr 9, 2007)

I know I might be coming to this thread a little late, but here's my $.02.

First of all, skip the chipset block(s).  They usually have no real effect on performance, and you can find passive or quiet ones for less money.  They also tend to add restriction and heat to the loop, which makes the whole performance of the loop suffer.

Second, same for the Mosfet Heattrap, unless it's absolutely neccessary.  But I seriously doubt it.

Third, skip the reservoir and use a T-line instead.  If you want the extra coolant in the loop that you could get from a res, buy a Danger Den Fillport Res.  It attaches to the fillport and goes down to the T-line, allowing bubles to escape up the T and coolant to flow down the T as needed.

Forth, if this is your first watercooling experience, you should try your best to keep this as simple as possible.  It looks like you've got a decent list of parts (although I would recommend a DD or Swiftech block from my own experiences with them), just don't make it too complicated if it doesn't need to be.  After you put it all together, if you find you need something else then add it.  Don't waste your time and $$ on things you don't need.


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## DOM (Apr 9, 2007)

Wile E said:


> In my opinion dom, you should stick with the original reservoir that you picked. I much prefer urethane over acrylic for a res. Much less likely to crack. Oh, and it's cheap.


Yeah I might cuz looks dont really matter to me cuz there the same style and thats an extra $19



Wile E said:


> I would still opt for the DD cpu block, if it were me. The petra performs better, but is more expensive. I would use the extra money elsewhere, as the DD cpu block will suit your needs just fine. It's still a damn good block.


Well just $12 for a better block its not to much 



Wile E said:


> The regcooler also looks like it could be a potential bottleneck. Are there any reviews of it floating around? I'm just curious how big the internal passages are on it, and how well it flows.


Well funkflix said its the one he has in his setup and IDK anything about it  



Wile E said:


> I like the petra pump, especially since you added reg cooling to the list. The extra head will come in handy.


Yea did you see the Review on post #16 for the pump 
Regcooler I got it cuz I plan on have it Oced more for 24/7 use cuz im not spending all this $$ just to have it at 3.2 or 3.6GHz cuz I can get it with the BT cuz at 3.2GHz I dont even break 50C on ORTHOS



Wile E said:


> And again, if it were my system, I'd go with the plain ol' Black Ice GTS rad, and save myself some loot. The GTS is more than capable of cooling your system, and even any parts you're likely to throw at it in the next couple of years. Keep the extra money to use for a DX10 upgrade when you're ready. If you're absolutely not comfortable with the GTS rad, then the PrimoChill would be my second choice.


PrimoChill is what funkflix has but I need to find out if its Dual Pass for sure, cuz the GTS is only Width 133mm/Height 397mm/Thickness 29.60mm  and the  PrimoChill is Width 135mm/Height 415mm/Thickness 46mm
 but for its price its not bad if it has Dual Pass.

And DX10 im not untill I really need to but Thanks for your concern  
all this stuff going on a card with 0% for 12 months


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## DOM (Apr 9, 2007)

t_ski said:


> I know I might be coming to this thread a little late, but here's my $.02.


Its okay have'nt oder anything yet



t_ski said:


> First of all, skip the chipset block(s).  They usually have no real effect on performance, and you can find passive or quiet ones for less money.  They also tend to add restriction and heat to the loop, which makes the whole performance of the loop suffer.


Well im going 1/2 on the tube and as I told Wile E im planning on pushing it more then 3.6GHz for everyday use. and the NB,SB are going to be set higher or at max so thats why I want them 



t_ski said:


> Second, same for the Mosfet Heattrap, unless it's absolutely neccessary.  But I seriously doubt it.


well just for insurance if they get to hot as they do get a lil hot 



t_ski said:


> Third, skip the reservoir and use a T-line instead.  If you want the extra coolant in the loop that you could get from a res, buy a Danger Den Fillport Res.  It attaches to the fillport and goes down to the T-line, allowing bubles to escape up the T and coolant to flow down the T as needed.


That sounds good but Im going to need to add more coolant more often as it doesnt hold that much.



t_ski said:


> Forth, if this is your first watercooling experience, you should try your best to keep this as simple as possible.  It looks like you've got a decent list of parts (although I would recommend a DD or Swiftech block from my own experiences with them), just don't make it too complicated if it doesn't need to be.  After you put it all together, if you find you need something else then add it.  Don't waste your time and $$ on things you don't need.


 You make a good point but my rig was my 1st and wheres the fun if its simple  but money comes and goes, I might die in a day,week,year,etc..you know what I trying to say, the whole Rig I didnt need but I got it  
but Thanks for your concern


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## t_ski (Apr 9, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> Well im going 1/2 on the tube and as I told Wile E im planning on pushing it more then 3.6GHz for everyday use. and the NB,SB are going to be set higher or at max so thats why I want them



OK, then, just check with other users of your board and see if they needed to use water cooling to get better clocks.  From all other boards I've seen (none 775 though) there has been no real benefit, other than adding a bit to your e-penis.  



> well just for insurance if they get to hot as they do get a lil hot



Same as that part above.



> That sounds good but Im going to need to add more coolant more often as it doesnt hold that much.



If your system has no leaks, and you are using quality tubing (not vinyl tubing), you will not need to add more coolant after the initial bleed and fill.  If you use vinyl tubing there is a slight bit of loss, but the Fillport res will hold a lot more than you would need.  Besides, if you had it running that long that you would need to fill it some more, it's probably time to tear it down and clean it out anyway.



> You make a good point but my rig was my 1st and wheres the fun if its simple  but money comes and goes, I might die in a day,week,year,etc..you know what I trying to say, the whole Rig I didnt need but I got it
> but Thanks for your concern



Well, there is a bit of a learning curve to it.  Plus there's not harm in doing it right.  If you go through and do 50 things, it makes more places to look (and possibly miss) when you have something go wrong.  If you start small and get the basics, you can tear it apart in a week and add more if and when you need it.


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## DOM (Apr 9, 2007)

t_ski said:


> OK, then, just check with other users of your board and see if they needed to use water cooling to get better clocks.  From all other boards I've seen (none 775 though) there has been no real benefit, other than adding a bit to your e-penis.


:shadedshu  for better temps at higher clocks cuz I know it can clock higher then 3.6GHz but its to hot thats why ppl go to water   and  e-penis  just cuz im going to get water setup 



t_ski said:


> Same as that part above.


You should know that to much heat is bad for anything electronic cuz its life span is shorter with extra heat




t_ski said:


> If your system has no leaks, and you are using quality tubing (not vinyl tubing), you will not need to add more coolant after the initial bleed and fill.  If you use vinyl tubing there is a slight bit of loss, but the Fillport res will hold a lot more than you would need.  Besides, if you had it running that long that you would need to fill it some more, it's probably time to tear it down and clean it out anyway.


well my case is not that big, cuz where does that thing supposed to go any ways ?? cuz I have an extra slot for that other Res. Is Tygon 3603 Tubing 1/2" ID 3/4" OD quality tubing ?





t_ski said:


> Well, there is a bit of a learning curve to it.  Plus there's not harm in doing it right.  If you go through and do 50 things, it makes more places to look (and possibly miss) when you have something go wrong.  If you start small and get the basics, you can tear it apart in a week and add more if and when you need it.


I know what your saying but I just want to get everything and not have to take it apart then be putting it back together just want to have the cuts I need then hook everything up leak test it and dont have to worry if I should of got that and this and I work 5-6days a week and nights  and do like waiting for parts and im lazy just want to get it done and only worry about cleaning and make sure it has enough coolant

but I dont think the SB needs a block maybe just a aftermarket air cooler right ?


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## t_ski (Apr 10, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> :shadedshu  for better temps at higher clocks cuz I know it can clock higher then 3.6GHz but its to hot thats why ppl go to water   and  e-penis  just cuz im going to get water setup



No, I wasn't saying you'd be expanding your e-penis just for going to watercooling.  From my experience, and from others I have come in contact with, watercooling the NB/SB on most boards will not get you any extra performance/OC over a decent air cooler.  Those who watercool their chipsets for the heck of it do it mostly for bragging rights.  In that circumstance, bragging rights = bigger e-penis.  That's why I suggested you do some research and find out if others with your same board really need it.  I know it sounds appealing to go in and do it all in one blow, but until you've fiddled around with running tubing you won't understand how difficult it can be to get it in there IN THE RIGHT WAY.  Sure you can slap it in, but you may end up with tubes every which way.  You said you're case isn't that big in the first place, and you want to run five blocks, a res, and a pump in there?  Unless you have a huge case it can be hard to make it look nice and be able to work in it.  I can tell you that it's sometimes very difficult to have the tubing run a proper way to avoid kinks, etc and have the case still workable.  Look at my review for the Tyee here and you can see how I ran the tubing for the CPU and the GPU blocks.  In order to swap out the CPU or the video card I need to remove both the vid card and the CPU waterblock.

If you have all the tubing and blocks you're suggesting, I think it will be very difficult to manage, especially for a first-time watercooler. 



> You should know that to much heat is bad for anything electronic cuz its life span is shorter with extra heat


Yep, I know that.  I also know that watercooling your CPU can have a great affect on the components around the socket.  Since the CPU is so much cooler, the surrounding area and the surrounding components are, too.



> well my case is not that big, cuz where does that thing supposed to go any ways ?? cuz I have an extra slot for that other Res. Is Tygon 3603 Tubing 1/2" ID 3/4" OD quality tubing ?



I personally do not have a res in my setup.  The only res I've used is the Swiftech MCRes Micro.  I thought it was easier to fill the system initially, but after that I thought it did more to slow down the flow of coolant (restriction) than anything else.  The more 90 or 180 degree bends you have, the more restriction you get.  Restriction is very bad for an inpingment block like the one I have, so I am commenting on that (I am not familiar with the one you suggested).

If you use a T-line, the tubing itself can act a bit of a reservoir, holding coolant until you need it. And yes, that Tygon should be able to hold in the coolant and prevent the evaporation that comes with generic vinyl stuff.  After the initial bleed, you should not need to add coolant unless there is a leak in the system.



> I know what your saying but I just want to get everything and not have to take it apart then be putting it back together just want to have the cuts I need then hook everything up leak test it and dont have to worry if I should of got that and this and I work 5-6days a week and nights  and do like waiting for parts and im lazy just want to get it done and only worry about cleaning and make sure it has enough coolant
> 
> but I dont think the SB needs a block maybe just a aftermarket air cooler right ?



It is against my better judgement to suggest anyone spend well over $100 for parts that will probably do no better than something else they can get for ~$20.  Obviously, this is your decision and you are free to do as you choose with your hard earned money.  If it were me, I would rather save the $100+ and upgrade the CPU or vid card with it.

Like I said, do the research and find out if it's necessary.  If it is, then by all means go for it.  If not, save the money for a DX10 upgrade.


----------



## Wile E (Apr 10, 2007)

t_ski said:


> Yep, I know that.  I also know that watercooling your CPU can have a great affect on the components around the socket.  Since the CPU is so much cooler, the surrounding area and the surrounding components are, too.


That's not necessarily true, t_ski. It's been proven that water cooling your cpu causes the temps of the components near the socket to rise, because of the reduction in airflow around the cpu.


----------



## malware (Apr 10, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> ....PrimoChill is what funkflix has but I need to find out if its Dual Pass for sure, cuz the GTS is only Width 133mm/Height 397mm/Thickness 29.60mm  and the  PrimoChill is Width 135mm/Height 415mm/Thickness 46mm
> but for its price its not bad if it has Dual Pass.



Let me explain it to you the easy way.

Dual Pass Radiator:



 



Single Pass Radiator:



 



Now you'll easily recognise dual pass radiators from the single ones. PrimoChill is definitely a dual pass radiator.


----------



## DOM (Apr 10, 2007)

Wile E said:


> That's not necessarily true, t_ski. It's been proven that water cooling your cpu causes the temps of the components near the socket to rise, because of the reduction in airflow around the cpu.


Thanks, but do you think I should put blocks on the NB and SB ? I think just the NB cuz it does get hot when I up the volts never really checked the SB do. Cuz the NB,SB are like kind of like a GPU right ? If there to hot they get unstable when OCed ???



malware said:


> Let me explain it to you the easy way.
> 
> Dual Pass Radiator:
> 
> ...



Thanks, Ive learned something new 
Im going with my choice in the list cuz its a bigger Rad.


----------



## t_ski (Apr 10, 2007)

Wile E said:


> That's not necessarily true, t_ski. It's been proven that water cooling your cpu causes the temps of the components near the socket to rise, because of the reduction in airflow around the cpu.



Sorry, but I saw a reduction in temps of the PWMIC on my DFI board when going to water cooling.  I thought everyone else had the saem results.  I do under stand about the lack of airflow around the socket, and I have seen products out there like the Asus aux fan meant for the vregs and stuff:

link


----------



## DOM (Apr 10, 2007)

t_ski said:


> Sorry, but I saw a reduction in temps of the PWMIC on my DFI board when going to water cooling.  I thought everyone else had the saem results.  I do under stand about the lack of airflow around the socket, and I have seen products out there like the Asus aux fan meant for the vregs and stuff:
> 
> link



 yeah mine came with one but you seen how the NB has a heatpipe to the Vregs   cuz Ive touched the NB base before and its get hot. So why would they run a pipe to the Vregs. And the fan does'nt push that much air the, fan is kind of small


----------



## Wile E (Apr 10, 2007)

t_ski said:


> Sorry, but I saw a reduction in temps of the PWMIC on my DFI board when going to water cooling.  I thought everyone else had the saem results.  I do under stand about the lack of airflow around the socket, and I have seen products out there like the Asus aux fan meant for the vregs and stuff:
> 
> link



If your case has really good airflow, then I can see getting a temp reduction when going water on your cpu.



DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> Thanks, but do you think I should put blocks on the NB and SB ? I think just the NB cuz it does get hot when I up the volts never really checked the SB do. Cuz the NB,SB are like kind of like a GPU right ? If there to hot they get unstable when OCed ???



It really depends, DOM. Most people can reach 500+ on your board without water. If you want to really push it, then water may be a good choice. I think the parts you have picked out so far won't be affected by the small amount of restriction the chipset blocks would cause. But, then again, how much further could the water take you? It may not get you any further in overclocking, but cooler is better from a stability and longevity standpoint. If it were me, I would try some active coolers on the chipsets first, cause they're cheap. If they didn't perform as well as I wanted, I would add the chipset blocks to the loop later. A PITA to be sure, but a risk I'd be willing to take.


----------



## DOM (Apr 10, 2007)

Wile E said:


> It really depends, DOM. Most people can reach 500+ on your board without water. If you want to really push it, then water may be a good choice. I think the parts you have picked out so far won't be affected by the small amount of restriction the chipset blocks would cause. But, then again, how much further could the water take you? It may not get you any further in overclocking, but cooler is better from a stability and longevity standpoint. If it were me, I would try some active coolers on the chipsets first, cause they're cheap. If they didn't perform as well as I wanted, I would add the chipset blocks to the loop later. A PITA to be sure, but a risk I'd be willing to take.



Im not trying to get any WR's but to cool the temps down like your saying, and thats what I dont want to happen to get some active coolers then wanting to get the blocks then im going to waste more so im just going to get them fuck it you only live once and like I said money comes and goes if I dont spend it on this its going to be spent on something else  

whats PITA?


----------



## Wile E (Apr 10, 2007)

*P*ain *I*n *T*he *A*ss

Upon thinking about it further, I would probably just go ahead and buy the chipset blocks myself. Just for the stability and added component life.


----------



## DOM (Apr 10, 2007)

Wile E said:


> *P*ain *I*n *T*he *A*ss
> 
> Upon thinking about it further, I would probably just go ahead and buy the chipset blocks myself. Just for the stability and added component life.



  thats why we work to buy are self things and pay bills  cuz my wife wants things too and shes getting something to cuz she lets me buy my things but she wants things that are more expensive just for two purses $1000+  ones 600 something but thats for her B-Day


----------



## Wile E (Apr 10, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> thats why we work to buy are self things and pay bills  cuz my wife wants things too and shes getting something to cuz she lets me buy my things but she wants things that are more expensive just for two purses $1000+  ones 600 something but thats for her B-Day


HOLY SH*T! $600!! Thankfully my wife to be likes computer, electronic, and car related stuff. lol


----------



## t_ski (Apr 10, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> yeah mine came with one but you seen how the NB has a heatpipe to the Vregs   cuz Ive touched the NB base before and its get hot. So why would they run a pipe to the Vregs. And the fan does'nt push that much air the, fan is kind of small



Vregs do get hot, and I have seen boards that either had heatsinks on them or needed to have them on them.  The fan in the kit probably works just by adding _some_ airflow.  There are those out there that want a totally quiet PC and remove as many fans as possible, and sometimes that can hurt their temps more than they think.  There is this buildup of hot air that they can't get rid of because they don't have the airflow there.  A small amount is probably all that is needed for your board since the temps aren't extremely bad.

One thing I forgot to add to my post yesterday: If you look around at the shops you can find lots and lots of different blocks, for anything from CPU's to GPU's to chipsets to HDD's, Vreg's and Memory.  Just because they have them available doesn't always mean they're totally needed.  If you put all these blocks in a loop each one will remove some heat, which will have to go into the loop.  That heat will increase the overall water temperature.  Since the loop has a higher temp, the rad will not be able to cool the water as much.  This means that the vital components, like the CPU and GPU, will have a higher temperature because the temperature delta (change) is not as high.  And on a side note, I used to have an Alphacool GPX and a separate Vreg block for my X1800XT.  I never put them in because I couldn't figure out a decent way to manage all that extra tubing.  There can be an issue with running tubing from a CPU block to a GPU block - if the tubing is too long it makes the side panel hard to get on & it pushes on the card, too short of tubing can cause kinks.  I too didn't have enough time to really mess with it and get things right.  I still don't.  I've got projects in the works that take months to complete because my priorities go elsewhere.  I have a quick and dirty OC on my rig that I don't have time to tweak or push farther.  And in the past I have spent a whole day devoted just to getting everything put in, and that's just with a CPU and GPU block.  Imagine what kind of time I'd need to do five blocks. 



			
				Wile E said:
			
		

> It really depends, DOM. Most people can reach 500+ on your board without water. If you want to really push it, then water may be a good choice. I think the parts you have picked out so far won't be affected by the small amount of restriction the chipset blocks would cause. But, then again, how much further could the water take you? It may not get you any further in overclocking, but cooler is better from a stability and longevity standpoint. If it were me, I would try some active coolers on the chipsets first, cause they're cheap. If they didn't perform as well as I wanted, I would add the chipset blocks to the loop later. A PITA to be sure, but a risk I'd be willing to take.



Thanks for the backup  Edit: Aw, you went soft on me.  NO BEER FOR YOU!!!

And a PITA is a "pain in the @$$"


----------



## DOM (Apr 10, 2007)

Wile E said:


> HOLY SH*T! $600!! Thankfully my wife to be likes computer, electronic, and car related stuff. lol



well I gave her my dell   but she like cars cuz she wants a BMW but thats after we pay off are truck cuz to put up with me for 7yrs. she got to have some nice things but damn just for a purse :shadedshu  girls and there damn love for dumb things but thats what she says about me 

@t_ski,  lol wheres your back-up now  and im not saying the Vregs gets hot the NB does and it has that heatpipe going to them making them hotter due to the NB, and I think they do get warm, but have you seen funkflix comp here if you have'nt  http://www.funkflix.de/pcseite/pc.htm thats what im going to do but he got those nice connectors but im sure I can do it


----------



## Wile E (Apr 10, 2007)

t_ski said:


> Thanks for the backup  Edit: Aw, you went soft on me.  NO BEER FOR YOU!!!


Hey, you have to consider the almighty e-penis as well.


----------



## t_ski (Apr 10, 2007)

Thanks for the link.  It helps some to have a visual reference.  One thing I think you will run into is the video card block.  If you go with the Maze5 GPU block the barbs will point out toward the side panel, and not be as neat of a run as what he has in the pic.

And did you notice the run is from the video card to the northbridge?  That's the kind of trouble I was talking about earlier when I said I'd need to remove multiple parts from the system to get access to one component.  Something to think about...


----------



## DOM (Apr 11, 2007)

t_ski said:


> Thanks for the link.  It helps some to have a visual reference.  One thing I think you will run into is the video card block.  If you go with the Maze5 GPU block the barbs will point out toward the side panel, and not be as neat of a run as what he has in the pic.
> 
> And did you notice the run is from the video card to the northbridge?  That's the kind of trouble I was talking about earlier when I said I'd need to remove multiple parts from the system to get access to one component.  Something to think about...



Well I taken the NB off before its not hard and the GPU, CPU so it should'nt be so hard but it would be worth it at the end it better  

and if I cant close the side panel i'll just leave it off


----------



## t_ski (Apr 11, 2007)

Watch out for small kids and pets


----------



## DOM (Apr 11, 2007)

t_ski said:


> Watch out for small kids and pets



 I dont have a CAT   the dog is outside and no kids yet 

but how much tubing do I need how many feet  

and what do you think about this D-Tek FuZion GFX GPU Waterblock
http://www.petrastechshop.com/dfugfxgpuwa.html


----------



## t_ski (Apr 11, 2007)

Usually I buy between 8 to 10 feet of tubing, and I have plenty left over in case I make mistakes or change my mind how I want to run the tubing, but that is with two blocks in the loop.  IDK if you'd need more since you're looking at more blocks.  If you do buy extra, you could use it to rerun the loop at a later point, or you could sell the stuff in the forums here.

I have seen that GPU block recently.  That block is a direct impingment one (one of the only ones I've ever seen for a GPU), which means it shoots the water through the center of the block to the middle of the GPU.  Direct impingment blocks tend to require more head and less resistance in the loop to work efficiently.  See if you can google up some reviews on that block.

One thing I forgot about, is that you could pick up some Swiftech CoolSleeves for the tubing.  If you haven't seen these before, they are basicly a giant plastic spring that you can wrap around the tubing to prevent kinks during tight bends.  You don't have to wrap the entire tubing with it, but you can cut it into smaller pieces and just do the areas most likely to bend. You can see them on the tubing by the CPU block in this picture:


----------



## DOM (Apr 11, 2007)

so would that be a better block ? cuz I think it just came out not to long ago. malware 
posted on the 4/4/07 I did find anything 

so 20ft would be good right?


----------



## Darksaber (Apr 11, 2007)

I was really impressed by the Cool IT Systems stuff...no maintanence, no assembly, no leakage...

Would that be an option?

cheers
DS


----------



## DOM (Apr 11, 2007)

Darksaber said:


> I was really impressed by the Cool IT Systems stuff...no maintanence, no assembly, no leakage...
> 
> Would that be an option?
> 
> ...



well Im looking to cool the whole comp not just the CPU   but thanks anyways


----------



## t_ski (Apr 11, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> so would that be a better block ? cuz I think it just came out not to long ago. malware
> posted on the 4/4/07 I did find anything
> 
> so 20ft would be good right?



Typically, impingment blocks do perform better.  These are ones like the Swiftech or Cather's Storm blocks.  I think the TDX/RBX are considered ones as well, although they are slightly different in the way they are designed.

20 feet should definitely be more than enough.  I would guess 12-15ft off hand should be enough with extra left over.  I think the longest run I have in my loop is about 2ft, and that's from the rad (located on the top like the pics you linked to earlier) down the back, across the bottom and to the pump (located in the 5.25" drive bays).  The pump to the CPU block IIRC is about 15", and everything else is well under a foot.


----------



## DOM (Apr 12, 2007)

so which is better ?

Stainless Steel Worm-Drive Hose Clamp (Wide Band w/Liner)
http://www.petrastechshop.com/ststwohoclwb.html
                           OR
Stainless Steel Worm-Drive Hose Clamp
http://www.petrastechshop.com/ststwohocl.html
                           OR
Stainless Steel Worm-Drive Hose Clamp (Wide Band)
http://www.petrastechshop.com/ststwohoclwb1.html

OH YEAH  

What kind of Coolant ? So whats GOOD ?


----------



## t_ski (Apr 12, 2007)

I just use the ones you can buy at the local hardware store / Lowe's / Home Depot.  probably the same as the second or thrid, and they usually go for about $.50 each for one that fits 5/8" OD tubing.


----------



## DOM (Apr 12, 2007)

t_ski said:


> I just use the ones you can buy at the local hardware store / Lowe's / Home Depot.  probably the same as the second or thrid, and they usually go for about $.50 each for one that fits 5/8" OD tubing.



Yeah I just went to Lowe's they did'nt have that many lost of bigger sizes but i'll check HD, but what about those Stainless Steel Worm-Drive Hose Clamp (Wide Band w/Liner) would they be better then the reg. ones ?

what about the coolant ??


----------



## Wile E (Apr 12, 2007)

I would go for the MCT-40 coolant, personally. Non-conductive, anti-algae, and premixed. No fuss.


----------



## DOM (Apr 12, 2007)

Wile E said:


> I would go for the MCT-40 coolant, personally. Non-conductive, anti-algae, and premixed. No fuss.



So with that I just put it in ? and do I have to add water ?

what about Fluid XP+ EXTreme cuz what color is MCT-40


----------



## t_ski (Apr 12, 2007)

The wide band worm clamps sometimes tend to "bite" into the hose, leaving marks from the holes in the clamp.  I think the liner is there to prevent that, but I don't think that's worth double the cost.  I just bought the regular ones.  Got them at a local Rural King store (farm supply/hardware store/etc), but you may also get them at a pump supply place (along with fittings and barbs if you needed them) or maybe even an automotive parts store.

For the coolant I've always used distilled water by itself, unless I had an aluminum part in with my copper stuff, then I would add up to 25% antifreeze to combat corrosion.  I don't have a window on my case, and it's not in front of one of the house's windows, so algea has never been a problem.  If you use distilled water it should be non-conductive, as the deposits in water are what make it conductive.  Those sediments will foul up your radiator and your blocks, too, so you don't want to use regular water anyway.


----------



## Wile E (Apr 13, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> So with that I just put it in ? and do I have to add water ?
> 
> what about Fluid XP+ EXTreme cuz what color is MCT-40


You don't have to add water, Dom.

I don't remember the color off hand, but it's UV reactive.

Here's a quick review of it:

http://www.madshrimps.be/?action=getarticle&articID=292


----------



## DOM (Apr 13, 2007)

Wile E said:


> You don't have to add water, Dom.
> 
> I don't remember the color off hand, but it's UV reactive.
> 
> ...



 So do I just need One bottle ?

 I would go with distilled water but this is already mixed and I not the type to try to get the right % of each


----------



## Wile E (Apr 13, 2007)

I would order 2. Just in case something goes awry. Like a leak during testing, or something similar. Even if you don't have any problems, you'll have extra around for top-offs, or if you decide to make any changes.


----------



## DOM (Apr 27, 2007)

Okay im just on waiting on the brass tops from DD   but im thinking of just getting some other ones cuz it might be this coming week or next before they get them  

so this are the one im looking at 

*** NEW *** EK-NB/SB ASUS 1 Chipset Block - LGA 775 ASUS Motherboards
http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...cts_id=21486:409ddadf049e9e8be852d331e7c3934a

and which is better ?
 *** NEW *** Enzotech Pure Forged Copper Ramsinks {C1100 Forged Copper}
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=196&products_id=21310
OR
Swiftech MC14 VGA Forged Copper BGA Ramsinks {C110  Forged Copper}
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=196&products_id=3811


----------



## Wile E (Apr 27, 2007)

Well, it's up to you what to do about your water block. If you want the DD block, you can always forgo the brass top, and stick with the regular top. I'm a little leary buying products that don't show the actual picture. Going by the illustration, the DD block seems better to me. But I don't know for sure.

As far as the ramsinks, get the cheaper ones. They should both perform close to each other.


----------



## DOM (Apr 27, 2007)

Yeah its just the wait thats killing me, cuz the comp is already been taken apart just waiting on the blocks, and yeah I know about the pic but they also come in Acetal what ever that is 

and I was thinking on these 
Swiftech MCW30 Chipset Water-block
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=241&products_id=4042

oh yeah do I need to do anything to any of the parts rad., blocks, etc. before I test for leaks ?


----------



## Wile E (Apr 27, 2007)

I actually just ordered a whole Swiftech h2o-120 Premium kit, and added on the MCW30 myself. Would've gone completely custom, like you, but I had to balance price and performance to a middle ground. All the research I did on the Swiftech block suggests that it is a very good block as well.

As for leak testing, all you do is hook it all up, fill it, disconnect the power from your mobo and accessories, hook the pump up to the psu, then jump the psu pins to turn it on.


----------



## DOM (Apr 28, 2007)

for testing im just going to use the other comps psu so I dont have to jump start mine  

and how much was your whole set ?

well I might just go with them as I cant really find any other ones cuz d-tek got one but on there stie but there out of somthing 

mine camw out to like 600 something


----------



## Wile E (Apr 28, 2007)

My kit came to around $180 for both, but only has the single 120mm rad and 3/8" tubing, but they have a dual 120mm kit with 1/2" tubing for $250. You would still have to order separate blocks for your cards and chipset tho. That would probably add another $100-150. You could also add another single 120mm and internally mount it.

Here's the dual 120mm kit. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835108076


----------



## yogurt_21 (Apr 28, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> for testing im just going to use the other comps psu so I dont have to jump start mine
> 
> and how much was your whole set ?
> 
> ...



lol another 140$ and you've got a phase cooler
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999088

course your other componets would ahve to stay at stock. 

but I'd say the chipset blocks and etc. are a bit redundant. you could just go with vga and cpu if you wanted to cut back on cost. 

@ wile e, thats  abit much to be on one single rad, I run that rad for my gpu alone. lol


----------



## Wile E (Apr 28, 2007)

yogurt_21 said:


> lol another 140$ and you've got a phase cooler
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999088
> 
> course your other componets would ahve to stay at stock.
> ...


What's a bit much to be on a single? Are you reffering to me or DOM? I suggested a dual 120 setup and add a single 120 to it for him. As for me, I'm only cooling my cpu and chipset with a single 120.


----------



## t_ski (Apr 28, 2007)

I think he was referring to multiple blocks on a 120mm rad.  Bigger is better with the rad - nothing wrong with one or two blocks on a triple rad if you ask me.


----------



## Wile E (Apr 28, 2007)

t_ski said:


> I think he was referring to multiple blocks on a 120mm rad.  Bigger is better with the rad - nothing wrong with one or two blocks on a triple rad if you ask me.


Eh, cpu and chipset should be fine for a single 120mm for me. This will be going on a Brisbane cpu, so it shouldn't heat up as much.(Well, not until I clock the snot out of it, anyway. lol)  The chipset just runs too hot not to cool(54C idle- NOT overclocked). I bought the h2o-120 Premium kit, then was gonna buy the really big Swiftech chipset cooler with fan, but then I realized that the water block was only $3 more. So I bought it.

As for DOM, if you read back a little, the setup he was looking at started to add up to $600, so I suggested the Swiftech setup with the dual 120 rad, and then add a really good single 120 to it and all the extra blocks, just to save him some loot.

@DOM, if you give a budget, we can still put together a custom setup. Remember, you don't necessarily have to have the best of everything.


----------



## DOM (Apr 28, 2007)

Wile E said:


> @DOM, if you give a budget, we can still put together a custom setup. Remember, you don't necessarily have to have the best of everything.



  its to late for that cuz if paid attioton post #68  

I know its kind of alot but like I said $ comes and goes  but wating fucken sucks  

well its was more cuz I didnt add everything I got  in pics to lazy to post sites


----------



## Wile E (Apr 28, 2007)

Did it for you - $379.47 from those reciepts.

So does that mean you are still missing the cpu and gpu blocks?


----------



## DOM (Apr 28, 2007)

Wile E said:


> Did it for you - $379.47 from those reciepts.
> 
> So does that mean you are still missing the cpu and gpu blocks?



  I added the other one didnt want anyone to find me with the tracking #  

its was 615.98 or something like that 

nice pimp hat just needs a feather


----------



## Wile E (Apr 28, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> I added the other one didnt want anyone to find me with the tracking #
> 
> its was 615.98 or something like that



The kit I started piecing together for just my northbridge and cpu started adding up to 280-300, so that's why I went with the Swiftech setup for 180. I can just upgrade it a piece at a time as necessary. Next purchases will be a 2x120 rad and a petra's top for my pump. After all my planned upgrades, It will still add up to more than my original plans in the long run, but I won't have to drop all the money at once. Eh, what can you do? Gotta trade off somewhere when you're on a budget.

You, on the other hand, probably won't have upgrade anything for the next few computer builds. Thereby making it cheaper in the long run for you. You figure, if you stretch it out for, say 4 builds, that adds up to $154 on cooling per build. Not bad really.



DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> nice pimp hat just needs a feather


lol thanx.


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## DOM (May 5, 2007)

The Swiftech MC14 VGA Forged Copper BGA Ramsinks are not going to work on the card cuz the barbs on the GPU Block are to low that the Ramsinks are going to hit

So now which are better from these but if you know better ones do tell, cuz 14.5mm is to tall 

Evercool F117 NightHawk Pure Copper Heatsinks
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=54_43&products_id=3988

Thermaltake Ram Sink Cooler - Copper
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=54_43&products_id=1658


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## Wile E (May 5, 2007)

The evercools have more surface area, so I'd say they're the better sinks.


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## t_ski (May 5, 2007)

You could always trim down or bend out the Swiftech heatsinks.


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## d44ve (May 5, 2007)

I am selling my Swiftech APOGEE GTX, if you are interested


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## DOM (May 5, 2007)

t_ski said:


> You could always trim down or bend out the Swiftech heatsinks.


 Yeah I thought about it but it has to be done to 3 of them to much work and its just easier to got with shorter ones  


d44ve said:


> I am selling my Swiftech APOGEE GTX, if you are interested


thanks but I already got the D-TEK FuZion


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## DOM (May 5, 2007)

I forgot about which is a good Tape or Thermal Pads for 2 of these 

Alphacool Heattrap RegCooler Asus SLI
http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...ucts_id=4519:3cfcb55dcf188c6d5438e00b422f903c

Chomerics Thermattach® T411 Conductive Tape (For chipsets & processors)
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=58&products_id=20881

Chomerics Thermattach® T412 Conductive Tape (MOSFET, PLL or BGA chips)
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=58&products_id=20882

Thermal Pads 1" X 1"
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=58&products_id=1141

Thermal Pads 1.5" X 1.5"
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=58&products_id=3303


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## d44ve (May 5, 2007)

are stuck on thermal pads or tape? (no pun intended)


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## DOM (May 5, 2007)

d44ve said:


> are stuck on thermal pads or tape? (no pun intended)



 

I never used that stuff but I need some for the RegCooler blocks cuz they dont come with any and need it to put between the mobo and blocks


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## d44ve (May 5, 2007)

just wondering... I have heard mixed reviews on the thermal pads and the tape. 

Do you need the tape to adhere the block to the chip?

Can you use a thermal paste?


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## DOM (May 5, 2007)

d44ve said:


> just wondering... I have heard mixed reviews on the thermal pads and the tape.
> 
> Do you need the tape to adhere the block to the chip?
> 
> Can you use a thermal paste?



the blocks come with the screws to hold it to the mobo but look at the pic cuz theys where they go and I need some but dont know which whould be better 

and a pic whith it on the 2nd pic http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...age_scroll&products_id=4519&image_scroll_id=0


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## Wile E (May 5, 2007)

Well, on the regs near the i/o panel, I would use screws and some Arctic Cooling Ceramiq, for the top ones, I don't know, I don't have any experience with thermal tape.


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## DOM (May 5, 2007)

Wile E said:


> Well, on the regs near the i/o panel, I would use screws and some Arctic Cooling Ceramiq, for the top ones, I don't know, I don't have any experience with thermal tape.



 but I have some MX-1 and Arctic Silver CMQ-22G The high-density, ceramic-based thermal compound

cuz under the stock HS it has a pad


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## d44ve (May 5, 2007)

I've used the tape and wasnt happy with it. 

Artic silver makes and thermal paste\adhesive that is supposed to work very well. I do not have any experiance with it though


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## DOM (May 5, 2007)

d44ve said:


> I've used the tape and wasnt happy with it.
> 
> Artic silver makes and thermal paste\adhesive that is supposed to work very well. I do not have any experiance with it though



I dont need and any adhesive stuff


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## Wile E (May 5, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> but I have some MX-1 and Arctic Silver CMQ-22G The high-density, ceramic-based thermal compound
> 
> cuz under the stock HS it has a pad


CMQ-22G is what I was referring to. I couldn't remember the proper name is all. lol. Under my chipset was that pink thermal gum stuff, swapping it out for the ceramic lowered temps almost 10c, (throwing the water block on after that lowered them another 12c)


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## DOM (May 5, 2007)

Wile E said:


> CMQ-22G is what I was referring to. I couldn't remember the proper name is all. lol. Under my chipset was that pink thermal gum stuff, swapping it out for the ceramic lowered temps almost 10c, (throwing the water block on after that lowered them another 12c)



so the CMQ-22G or MX-1 ?? my SB was like glued on had to pri it off lol


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## Taz100420 (May 5, 2007)

For extra cooling purposes, use a dorm fridge if you can find one or get a cheapo. College campus's are excellent when kids graduate, they just throw new ones away.....

dont mean to thread jack


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## Wile E (May 5, 2007)

I prefer the ceramic stuff on chipsets and regs, personally.


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## DOM (May 5, 2007)

Taz100420 said:


> For extra cooling purposes, use a dorm fridge if you can find one or get a cheapo. College campus's are excellent when kids graduate, they just throw new ones away.....
> 
> dont mean to thread jack



 dorm fridge  the lil ones ? Thats what I wanted to do but well see how it is with it in room temps cuz its going to have 6 blue led 120mm fans


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## d44ve (May 5, 2007)

Oh damn... I thought you need it.

Then yeah, dont go with those.

I really like the cermic on mine. I use it on the cold side of the peltier because of the cold properties and MX1 on the hot side


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## DOM (May 5, 2007)

Wile E said:


> I prefer the ceramic stuff on chipsets and regs, personally.



k   I have the big tube didnt think I was going to use it again  but isnt the MX-1 no conductive also ?


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## Wile E (May 5, 2007)

I dunno, I'm gonna check now and edit when I get back.

EDIT: You're right, MX-1 is non-conductive. Just use that.


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## DOM (May 5, 2007)

Wile E said:


> I dunno, I'm gonna check now and edit when I get back.



well I g2g to work


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## Taz100420 (May 5, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> dorm fridge  the lil ones ? Thats what I wanted to do but well she how it is with it in room temps cuz its going to have 6 blue led 120mm fans



yea, the lil ones lol but I found mine today 
all I need is my parts lol
god I love Bowling Green University!


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## d44ve (May 5, 2007)

Taz100420 said:


> yea, the lil ones lol but I found mine today
> all I need is my parts lol
> god I love Bowling Green University!



damn, hook it up! Grab one for me =)


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## Taz100420 (May 5, 2007)

hey if I get one, just pay for shipping!
Im not guaranteeing anything tho.
metal scrapping is my part time job and computer money


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## Taz100420 (May 5, 2007)

yea ohio


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## DOM (May 5, 2007)

Okay Ive been waiting for Danger Den to get there MAZE4 Chipset Brass Top but its killing me cuz its been over 2weeks with out my babe  

So should I wait or get these ?  

Swiftech MCW30 Chipset Water-block
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4042


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## t_ski (May 5, 2007)

As long as it fits, I think you will be fine with the Swiftech.  I have been very pleased with my Storm, and I was pleased with the MCW50 I had back in the day.


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## Wile E (May 5, 2007)

I have the mcw30, and it lowered my chipset temps by 25c compared to stock. They actually flow really well, too. They're an acceptable substitute.


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## Taz100420 (May 7, 2007)

d44ve said:


> damn, hook it up! Grab one for me =)


 LOL I have got 2 more and 1 of em is in use for a beer fridge


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## DOM (May 10, 2007)

Updated got the 2X Swiftech MCW30 Chipset Water-block cuz DD still havent got the Brass tops and they didnt know when they would get them and also emailed Jeremy two times and never got a answer  

So hopefully I'll start this weekend putting it together  bout damn fucken time my stuff is already old 

wish me luck


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## DOM (May 12, 2007)

Ive got all the blocks in.... Now how long should the tubes be   

This is my 1st time so I have no clue lol

Cuz I want to connect the tubes on the mobo 1st then put it in so I can have more space to work with or should I put it in the work form there ??


  Cant take no Pic due to no Camera so you have to bear with me


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## Alcpone (May 12, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> Ive got all the blocks in.... Now how long should the tubes be
> 
> This is my 1st time so I have no clue lol
> 
> ...



Woop woop lol, its great int it when you are ready to rock!

I would get your mobo in first then build from that, the tubes can be as long as you want aslong as they dont kink anywhere, just get the tube and measure by bending it where you want it to go then chop and connect!

People make a massive fuss about 24 hour leak testing, which really is abit over the top imo, make sure you get a good seal on every joint and you will be fine, just let it run for 5 mins and look for leaks before you power up!


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## DOM (May 12, 2007)

I cant belive this....

Okay on one of the Alphacool Heattrap RegCooler Asus SLI the barbs are smaller then the ones I got today so im thinking there the 3/8" cuz there shorter and the hole is a lil smaller and the tube goes on very easily  

Cuz the 1/2" are taller and you have to push to get it over the barb


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## Alcpone (May 12, 2007)

Gutted for ya, you will have to get it sent back, did you not order the same size barbs on everything? It will defo leak if it went over that easy even when tightened!


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## DOM (May 12, 2007)

yes I did, both the same  
1 x Alphacool Heattrap RegCooler Asus SLI
  - Fitting Size: 1/2" for 1/2" I.D. Tubing  
1 x Alphacool Heattrap RegCooler Asus SLI
  - Fitting Size: 1/2" for 1/2" I.D. Tubing  

I had to hunt down the damn mailman today cuz I didnt answer the door when he came cuz I was asleep cuz I work nights so they left the card to pick it up on the 14th and I was fuck that so I went to the post office and he was still out on his route so I went down the blocks where I live and I found him but now Im back where I started


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## DOM (May 12, 2007)

I dont think they'll leak cuz I got the metal clamps but there alot shorter and this just made my day :shadedshu 

When I noticed it as I already had the SB, Card, NB and was going to go that then I was  it looks smaller then I was praying let it not be so but it was and now im   but what can I do 

Cuz I was going to go to the like homedepot or lowes to see if they got anything like other one but I think they wont


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## t_ski (May 12, 2007)

I really doubt that your local mone improvement store will have them.  Most blocks use G1/4" threads on the barbs, and you will probably only find NPT threaded barbs at the store.  If it went on easy, then it's too small.  Besides being a possible leak point, it wil restrict the flow of the whole loop, negating the 1/2" barbs in the rest of the system.  Get on the horn to JabTech and see if they can help you out.  Look at some of the other stores, too to see if one's close by you.

When you have al the right parts, you need to install the blocks and stuff in the system as it will be so you know how long to cut the tubing.  If you guess you will probably be off, with runs that are either too short or too long, both of which could kink or pinch and reduce your flow.  Flow is king in the WC loop.  If you want to leak test it outside the machine you can install all the blocks dry (w/o thermal compound), take everything out, the put it back in with grease.


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## DOM (May 13, 2007)

Well I found a Brass Pipe Nipple would that work ?  in the  pic thats what it looks like threads on both ends


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## Wile E (May 13, 2007)

For my build, I took everything out and attached the blocks. I then put everything back in, situate where I was gonna put my pump, res and rad, and then started running tubing. 

I made one mistake tho, I forgot to put my gfx card in when I started running tubing. I realized my mistake, and tried to put the card in, but it wouldn't fit under the tube going from my cpu to my NB. No biggy, had some extra tubing and just re-did that connection.

To leak test, I left everything built, unhooked absolutely everything from the power supply, and hooked up only the pump to the psu. Filled the res, jumped and turned on the psu, then continued to fill the res until the system was full.

After it was full, I shut it off to let the air bubbles settle, then kicked it back on, then shut it off for a few more, then back on, etc., etc. Did that until all the air was out of the system. (Trust me, you'll immediately know when the air is finally gone.

After it was filled and bled, I leak tested for around 20min (with still only the pump hooked up). No leaks, so I ran all my wires and finished off the build, jumping immediately into overclocking. lol

As far as your fittings, you can try a place that sells plumbing supplies or possibly automotive. G1/4" can be a little hard to come by, but it's worth a shot.


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## t_ski (May 13, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> Well I found a Brass Pipe Nipple would that work ?  in the  pic thats what it looks like threads on both ends



Yep, that's a nipple.  Not the good kind, though - if you know what I mean 

I personnally like 3" nipples


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## DOM (May 13, 2007)

t_ski said:


> Yep, that's a nipple.  Not the good kind, though - if you know what I mean
> 
> I personnally like 3" nipples



 well thats whats it called   but can that be used ? its 1/4" MIP x 2"


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## t_ski (May 13, 2007)

Honestly, I can't say, as I've never heard of MIP. The problem is that the threads, the pitch, and theoutside edge-to-edge measurements must match up with the G1/4". If you have NPT they are close to G fittings, but they are off by the thread count.  One of them is 18 threads per inch, and the other is 19 threads per inch.  For the most part that may not be a problem, as most fittings are less than 1/2" long, but they pressure doesn't spread evenly across the threads and may cause leaks.  The best way to tell would be to line up the threads from the nipple to the threads on the fitting.  If the line up correctly you won't see any light through the two.  If you see a little bit of light it may be OK, but a lot of light means trouble.


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## DOM (May 13, 2007)

would tread tape help ?

Also it screws in and gets tight


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## DOM (May 20, 2007)

She's UP and Running  Ive been trough hell with this damn WCing


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## Wile E (May 20, 2007)

You get the reg coolers in as well?


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## DOM (May 20, 2007)

Everything's in was going to leave them out but 40 some each  they going to fucken work


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## Wile E (May 20, 2007)

That's good to hear. lol

How's she running?


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## DOM (May 20, 2007)

well right now the cpu it at stock   load is 37C on TAT 100% load on both cores

and card @ 621/900 stock, load on the fuzzy dice is highest was 36C 


CPU Idle 24-25

GPU Idle 29


Also it everything has a fresh MX-1 on it so it should get better after break in


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## Wile E (May 20, 2007)

Sweet! Now get to clockin it! lol


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## DOM (May 20, 2007)

Well here's 100% Load on TAT @ 3.2GHz

Oh yeah it Idles @ 28-29C


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## Wile E (May 20, 2007)

What kind of fans do you have on the rad? Just curious.


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## DOM (May 20, 2007)

Do you really wanna know   6X Thermaltake's Thunderblade 120mm blue-LED fans  

Why am I getting good temps ??


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## Wile E (May 20, 2007)

I couldn't tell you if the temps are good or not. I don't know how hot Core 2s run. I only asked because I don't remember it ever being mentioned. I was also gonna suggest getting some really high flow fans and throwing them on a controller, so you can have silence under light loads, and crank them for benching and stuff.


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## DOM (May 20, 2007)

Well there not that loud and there rated @ Air Flow 78 CFM  

But this one is loud have to turn it down a bit 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999122

Also I have a fan controller 


ORTHOS doesnt put to much load on the cpu  

Cuz Load on TAT I get 54-55 @ 3.6GHz but in ORTHOS 44-45   thats a big diff.


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## ex_reven (May 20, 2007)

I wish I lived on my own. Watercooling is such an expensive, but exciting venture.
My mum would never allow me to buy anything as unnecessary as watercooling.

Bravo to Dom for taking the leap 
Gonna post some pics for us ?


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## DOM (May 20, 2007)

ex_reven said:


> I wish I lived on my own. Watercooling is such an expensive, but exciting venture.
> My mum would never allow me to buy anything as unnecessary as watercooling.
> 
> Bravo to Dom for taking the leap
> Gonna post some pics for us ?



 It wasn't easy I tell you

1st had problems with the regcoolers leaking 

Then when I thought I was ready to go earlier today then the NB block leaked all over my card and all the slots pci-e's and so on  

Oh yeah wait 4 this........ I left the plastic on the GPU Block   but since the NB leaked I toke everything out and took it off and there it was  with the paste on it 

So I think it was all worth it cuz right know im @ 3760GHz @ 40C idle  and card @ 722.25/1026 max temp was 36C and I got 7377 on 3DMark 06

And all this went on a credit card with 0% for 12m's and pics later when I put everything in


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## ex_reven (May 20, 2007)

What are Reg Coolers?

I know theres waterblocks for cpu, gpu, nb, sb and hdd. 

Reg is voltage regulator? I dont even know where the Voltage Regulator IS


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## DOM (May 20, 2007)

ex_reven said:


> What are Reg Coolers?
> 
> I know theres waterblocks for cpu, gpu, nb, sb and hdd.
> 
> Reg is voltage regulator? I dont even know where the Voltage Regulator IS



2nd pic has it on the mobo
http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...age_scroll&products_id=4519&image_scroll_id=0


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## ex_reven (May 20, 2007)

ah i see it now


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## Alcpone (May 20, 2007)

Woooo x6 120mm fans on your rad, it must be hugeeeee  

Ive only got x1 120mm at full speed on my little rad, load temps are about 10*c higher at load on my CPU @ current clock < see specs... But im cooling the cpu, chipset and gpu on 1 loop, so I am quite happy with that, my gpu runs @ most @ 48*c

Glad to hear your up and running


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## ex_reven (May 20, 2007)

DOM_ATI_X800XL_PCI-E said:


> Well here's 100% Load on TAT @ 3.2GHz
> 
> Oh yeah it Idles @ 28-29C



btw, i dunno if TAT is very accurate.
With my setup, TAT and Everest Ultimate were giving me very varied results. 30 degrees on TAT - 58 degrees on everest. Speedfan reported it was about 50 degrees.

Pretty shitty idle temps lol. Yours are much better, just make sure you use more than one program to check temps


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## t_ski (May 20, 2007)

Glad you got it up and running.  I'm waiting for pics, too


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## DOM (May 23, 2007)

heres some pics to lazy to finish putting the other stuff in but this sat. i'll will


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## Chewy (May 23, 2007)

Beastly man I like it. that thing is pimped and ready for serious oc'in.


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## DOM (May 23, 2007)

thanks did you see my 3dmark06 run on Alcpone's Official 3DMark '06 Compilation got a new   but right now im @ 3.6GHz it idles at like 40 and load on ORTHOS is like mid low 50's with 1.55v on the core and mem @ 1125Mhz 4-4-4-12

and the card never goes over 40C


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## Alcpone (May 23, 2007)

Now thats sexy, that rad is extreme, you running them at low revs?


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## DOM (May 27, 2007)

some new pics 

http://www.techpowerup.com/gallery/673/__7.jpg



http://www.techpowerup.com/gallery/673/__8.jpg


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