# Should I add an extra CPU fan?



## Nxodus (Dec 11, 2018)

I'm planning on getting an i5-8400 or a i5-9600K, and I never had such powerful CPU's so I gotta be careful with the usual entry-level budget coolers I'm used to buying.

I'm not into RGB stuff so it was a real challange finding a decent non-RGB CPU cooler that's a bit above entry level

Turns out Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition has no RGB, is recent with updated tech and looks awesome too.
*http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-air-cooler/hyper-212-black-edition/*

Would you recommend getting an extra fan for the aforementioned CPU's, or should the basic setup work fine?
Let me refine the question: Is there a considerable advantage with 2 fans in cooling, like 3+ celsius less?
I'm asking because the extra Silencio FP120 PWM fan is a bit pricey..

Not planning to OC the CPU's, I know, the K stands for overclock-worthy but I like the 9600K for its other qualities.

Thanks in advance!


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## infrared (Dec 11, 2018)

You should be just fine with a hyper 212 black with a single fan, especially if you don't plan to overclock. They're very decent coolers for the money. Enjoy the new CPU 



Nxodus said:


> Let me refine the question: Is there a considerable advantage with 2 fans in cooling, like 3+ celsius less?


It won't be a huge difference, your 3c guess is probably not far off, but I can't find any reviews where they actually test it 1 fan vs 2 so can't give you a solid answer on that I'm afraid.


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## Nxodus (Dec 11, 2018)

infrared said:


> Enjoy the new CPU


Thank you very much
I thought the CPU's were a bit too much for budget coolers, but I'm relieved.


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## Vario (Dec 11, 2018)

The i5 8600K and i5 8400 I have run cool at stock.  The 8600K only runs hot if overclocked.  Even so, the 212 would probably be adequate.


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## Nxodus (Dec 11, 2018)

Vario said:


> The i5 8600K and i5 8400 I have run cool at stock.  The 8600K only runs hot if overclocked.  Even so, the 212 would probably be adequate.



good to know, thanks!


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## bogmali (Dec 11, 2018)

Just what everyone else said, you're fine with a single fan config since you're not going to OC. I'm running a 6700K stock on a Hyper 212 EVO with a single fan and have no issues.


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## Vario (Dec 11, 2018)

bogmali said:


> Just what everyone else said, you're fine with a single fan config since you're not going to OC. I'm running a 6700K stock on a Hyper 212 EVO with a single fan and have no issues.


I don't think adding a second fan to the 212 really helps that much anyway.  If doing that, in most cases would be better running a single better fan.  Usually the heatsink is close to the rear case exhaust anyway and that acts as the second fan.


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## Devon68 (Dec 11, 2018)

I dont think there is a cpu that the hyper 212 could not cool when running stock. Except maybe the FX-9590


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## FreedomEclipse (Dec 11, 2018)

Make sure you check that the bottom of the cooler is perfectly flat... I bought a Hyper 212 for a friends build but this is what i found when i unboxed it....








you can see the closest heatpipe is way out of whack and wont make good contact with the CPU


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## natr0n (Dec 11, 2018)

I always try to put max fans possible on coolers. My current one has 3 on it.

Even if you dont overclock you will get the best temps possible with 2 fans.


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## FreedomEclipse (Dec 11, 2018)

On a side note.

If youre planning to go with two fans I recommend you go with some 120mm Noctua Redux fans. the 1700rpm version is very very cheap and i have used them on my own build and other builds. At lower RPMs they are as silent as anything. 

If you want LEDs or RGB then its upto you but Corsair MLs get my vote. They are pricey but their performance is second to none. The non LED versions are slightly cheaper than their LED/RGB variants though but they still cant/wont beat the Noctua redux for price.


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## jboydgolfer (Dec 11, 2018)

FreedomEclipse said:


> Make sure you check that the bottom of the cooler is perfectly flat.


+1 on that.

the Heat sink on my kids Gigabyte 1070 G1 Gaming is uneven, and the pipes are positioned so they seperate right in the middle of the GPU die, and the temps are awful.


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## John Naylor (Dec 12, 2018)

At this point in time I have a very hard time recommending anything but the Scythe Mugen Max ($37)  and Fuma ($45) Coolers.  Anything is fine for the 8400, but with the 9600k, while ya might not wanna OC it today, you might change ya mind when it starts having issues "keeping up" as newer and tougher gaming loads arrive on the scene over time.  It's ot worth it to throw on a $25 - $35 cooler methinks when those coolers are outperfrming the $90 flagship air coolers from Noctua and Cryorig as well and 98% of the 2 x 120 / 2 x 140mm CLC type coolers around.  For an extra $2 - $10 investment, you're covered no matter what ya do... and no reinstall and new purchase of TIM / Cooler if that decision is made.


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## Nxodus (Dec 12, 2018)

bogmali said:


> Just what everyone else said, you're fine with a single fan config since you're not going to OC. I'm running a 6700K stock on a Hyper 212 EVO with a single fan and have no issues.





FreedomEclipse said:


> Make sure you check that the bottom of the cooler is perfectly flat... I bought a Hyper 212 for a friends build but this is what i found when i unboxed it....
> 
> 
> 
> ...





natr0n said:


> I always try to put max fans possible on coolers. My current one has 3 on it.
> 
> Even if you dont overclock you will get the best temps possible with 2 fans.





FreedomEclipse said:


> On a side note.
> 
> If youre planning to go with two fans I recommend you go with some 120mm Noctua Redux fans. the 1700rpm version is very very cheap and i have used them on my own build and other builds. At lower RPMs they are as silent as anything.
> 
> If you want LEDs or RGB then its upto you but Corsair MLs get my vote. They are pricey but their performance is second to none. The non LED versions are slightly cheaper than their LED/RGB variants though but they still cant/wont beat the Noctua redux for price.





John Naylor said:


> At this point in time I have a very hard time recommending anything but the Scythe Mugen Max ($37)  and Fuma ($45) Coolers.  Anything is fine for the 8400, but with the 9600k, while ya might not wanna OC it today, you might change ya mind when it starts having issues "keeping up" as newer and tougher gaming loads arrive on the scene over time.  It's ot worth it to throw on a $25 - $35 cooler methinks when those coolers are outperfrming the $90 flagship air coolers from Noctua and Cryorig as well and 98% of the 2 x 120 / 2 x 140mm CLC type coolers around.  For an extra $2 - $10 investment, you're covered no matter what ya do... and no reinstall and new purchase of TIM / Cooler if that decision is made.



Duly noted, thanks everyone for your kind help!


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## Gorstak (Dec 12, 2018)

I'd recommend arctic freezer i32/i33, check their page for details...somewhat better then hyper...

If you want cheap + easy to install, look no further then LC-CC-100


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## Jose Jeswin (Dec 12, 2018)

Hi...Dual fans will look cool tho.. and may or may not provide substantial cooling....i am using the old model with dual red cooler master xtraflo 120mm fans on my fx 8350 at stock settings.. 






some pics i took while assembly...


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## Vayra86 (Dec 12, 2018)

Pointless on this cooler. If you want extra cooling performance, add case fans and reduce ambient temp.

That said 212 will do 8600/9600k fine, but for an OC it won't be enough. Unless you want a very mild OC.


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## tami626 (Dec 12, 2018)

Vayra86 said:


> Pointless on this cooler. If you want extra cooling performance, add case fans and reduce ambient temp.


Wouldn't adding a fan to a tower CPU cooler improve airflow though?


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## Vayra86 (Dec 12, 2018)

tami626 said:


> Wouldn't adding a fan to a tower CPU cooler improve airflow though?



With this heatsink? No. Its too thin to benefit from a pull fan. Airflow is improved with case fans.


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## Jose Jeswin (Dec 12, 2018)

minimal improvement in airflow in my case...the case exhaust fan is more powerful and thereby bypasses the rear fan on the heatsink...the temps though remain manageable around 40 - 45 Celsius at idle and 60 - 65  at load..

i have a rear exhaust fan and a side exhaust fan...both are connected to motherboard headers...they do a better job at keeping the temps down..


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## Bones (Dec 12, 2018)

FreedomEclipse said:


> Make sure you check that the bottom of the cooler is perfectly flat... I bought a Hyper 212 for a friends build but this is what i found when i unboxed it....
> 
> 
> 
> ...



THIS is why I won't ever buy a cooler without a base that makes direct contact with the CPU itself instead of pipes.
Even with one with such a base it's still possible to have problems but the likelyhood is far less. No real way to fix that and if you try to, may wind up cracking/breaking the tubing rendering it useless - Also trying to sand/file it down level with the rest is just right out.
Clear case of RMA with that one.

As for an additional fan, no real difference worth noting if a second is added, if replacing the stock fan with one of a higher CFM that would make a larger difference, but also make more noise too.

However.... The OP could do that along with upgrading/adding fans to the case - Remember that air inside the case is already being warmed by other components exhausting their heat in the same airspace the CPU cooler has to share with them for cooling use.
If said air is already warm it won't cool as well, in that instance either adding an extra fan or replacing the stock one with a higher CFM would have much if any effect at all.

This is why the OP can make sure airflow is moving in the right direction.
Heat rises naturally so any venting at the top of the case should be taken advantage of to exhaust the hot air upwards, exhaust can be at the top and rear of the case with the front and sides used for intake.
I don't suggest any at the bottom, some cases can have air coming in from there too (Mine is one that can if I want) but all that will do is suck dust into the case because dust naturally settles at the bottom of anything, be it a desk, floor or whatever else. Speaking of the floor, that's the worst place to have one because thats where the majority of it will be and unless you clean where the case is setting regularly, guess what you'll be sucking into the system.

Just my take on things with this.


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## Jose Jeswin (Dec 12, 2018)

just curious bones, did you sand down the heat sink plate?


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## FreedomEclipse (Dec 12, 2018)

Bones said:


> Clear case of RMA with that one.



I sent it back for a refund and bought an ARCTIC Freezer 33


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## Bones (Dec 12, 2018)

That's not my cooler - I woudn't ever buy one like that as said.
The ones I buy have a base period like the older ones do because of things like what's seen in the pic.

Example of one I do have: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106178
Note that it has heatpipes too BUT there is a base that's between these pipes and the CPU if mounted. No issues with pipes being messed up and if you really have to, the base can be sanded flat to fix any problems from that without the real risk of ruining the cooler itself just from trying to fix it.
The product pics in the listing shows the base of it at least once so it can be seen.


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## Jose Jeswin (Dec 12, 2018)

oops...sorry..i thought it was yours bones..i just saw that its freedom eclipses'...






nice one...too bad ,can't get hold of thermaltake products in Kerala in India...but Coolermaster is a big thing here..


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## Splinterdog (Dec 12, 2018)

Ambient temps are important too. If the OP lives in a hot country without air conditioning, a push-pull arrangement would certainly help.


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## Bones (Dec 12, 2018)

That model cooler is no longer made, you'd have to find one used if wanting that exact cooler but it's a good one. 

It's clear you probrably woudn't have problems with pipes not being flat as a mounting surface - In truth that's just a cheaper way of making one but you can see the difference between the two base types which one is best.


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## Jose Jeswin (Dec 12, 2018)

but isn't the direct contact heatpipes supposed to enhance cooling performance?...cooler master advertises the feature as a premium feature...same i have noticed on my asus R7 260x GPU heat sink...


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## Vario (Dec 12, 2018)

The direct contact ones cool better from what I have seen but if there is any defect you can't lap it flat without ruining the heatpipes as the metal is too thin on the pipes to lap.


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## Bones (Dec 12, 2018)

It's "Supposed" to but in reality it doesn't make alot of difference - More or less a marketing thing with that said.

Even if it does, still not worth all that with the issues that can be with the pipes themselves exposed like that. You also have to remember that those pipes where machined are inherently weak at that spot, if you should happen to drop it, bump it, or anything else that would push up on the pipes they could crack right open and...... That's it.


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## Jose Jeswin (Dec 12, 2018)

my gpu cooler as an example.. the aluminium part  in the middle of the tubes are a bit of trouble when re pasting..


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## FreedomEclipse (Dec 12, 2018)

Jose Jeswin said:


> but isn't the direct contact heatpipes supposed to enhance cooling performance?...cooler master advertises the feature as a premium feature...same i have noticed on my asus R7 260x GPU heat sink...



DirectTouch heatpipes have been an industry gimmick for years. Im sure they help but if you look at high end coolers from Noctua like the D14 and D15 or Cryorig with R1 you will see that they dont use DirectTouch heatpipes.

I remember back in the skt 775 days when i had an OCZ Vendetta 2 CPU cooler that had these direct touch heatpipes.


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## Jose Jeswin (Dec 12, 2018)

still using socket 775...everyday workhorse pc...cooled with a cooler master tx 3 evo.... with some strange type of direct contact plate..


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## dirtyferret (Dec 12, 2018)

Vayra86 said:


> Pointless on this cooler. If you want extra cooling performance, add case fans and reduce ambient temp.
> 
> That said 212 will do 8600/9600k fine, but for an OC it won't be enough. Unless you want a very mild OC.



this, I've played around the 212 and two fans and never saw a diffenerence in temps that was greater then 1c.  I beleive it was maximum pc that did a similar test several years back with the exact same results.

FYI, direct heat pipes are a marketing term for cost reduction not better performance.  Ever see direct heat pipes on a Noctua, Scythe, Be Quiet cooler?


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## Vayra86 (Dec 12, 2018)

The properties of cooling solutions are massively overstated. Most of it is so minute in the real world differences that it doesn't matter.

But, all those tiny things do add up to meaningful gaps. In some cases. That is, only the best coolers - its usually the reason they shine. Its the overall balance that is most important. You can't force heat out faster than it goes on its own, no amount of fans will do that. You can increase the heatsink surface area, you can improve the base, increase heatpipes, and that is just about it. The fan just needs to push the hot air through and out of the heatsink. The rest is all about case fans and ambient temp + humidity. About balance: an example of great balance is that a second fan is usually added to dual-stack heatsinks. Why, because they dó benefit from having the stronger airflow on that second heatsink, the first fan is too far away to get fresh air to/through it.


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## bug (Dec 12, 2018)

Vayra86 said:


> The properties of cooling solutions are massively overstated. Most of it is so minute in the real world differences that it doesn't matter.
> 
> But, all those tiny things do add up to meaningful gaps. In some cases. That is, only the best coolers - its usually the reason they shine. Its the overall balance that is most important. You can't force heat out faster than it goes on its own, no amount of fans will do that. You can increase the heatsink surface area, you can improve the base, increase heatpipes, and that is just about it. The fan just needs to push the hot air through and out of the heatsink. The rest is all about case fans and ambient temp + humidity. About balance: an example of great balance is that a second fan is usually added to dual-stack heatsinks. Why, because they dó benefit from having the stronger airflow on that second heatsink, the first fan is too far away to get fresh air to/through it.


With the caveat not even increasing the surface makes a difference if the top of your cooler doesn't get warm (i.e. heat is exchanged by the existing surface just fine). It's all a balance game, you just need to know what you're balancing.


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## Bones (Dec 12, 2018)

dirtyferret said:


> this, I've played around the 212 and two fans and never saw a diffenerence in temps that was greater then 1c.  I beleive it was maximum pc that did a similar test several years back with the exact same results.
> 
> FYI, direct heat pipes are a marketing term for cost reduction not better performance.  Ever see direct heat pipes on a Noctua, Scythe, Be Quiet cooler?



Believe it or not Scythe does have at least one that way but it's a cheaper one too. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W04C65843
You'll have to look carefully at the bottom of the cooler in the pics but it's clearly a pipe contact cooler.

For the money this one I believe is the best balance between price and performance within the Scythe family of coolers: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9ZH3S91295

Scythe makes good coolers - You guys should know by now which one of them I've been running.


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## Vayra86 (Dec 12, 2018)

Bones said:


> Believe it or not Scythe does have at least one that way but it's a cheaper one too. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W04C65843
> You'll have to look carefully at the bottom of the cooler in the pics but it's clearly a pipe contact cooler.
> 
> For the money this one I believe is the best balance between price and performance within the Scythe family of coolers: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9ZH3S91295
> ...



At the level of the Hyper 212 I've always been partial to Gelid myself. They offer a better fan, at least a more silent one. Yes even better than Scythe.

https://gelidsolutions.com/thermal-solutions/cpu-cooler-rev-4-tranquillo-2/

Tends to go out for about 26-30 EUR over here.


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## bug (Dec 12, 2018)

Bones said:


> Believe it or not Scythe does have at least one that way but it's a cheaper one too. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W04C65843
> You'll have to look carefully at the bottom of the cooler in the pics but it's clearly a pipe contact cooler.


It's not. I've looked it up on the manufacturer's website 
Unless they have several revisions out there and I looked at the wrong one.


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## Bones (Dec 12, 2018)

Nice cooler - I woudn't have it because it's a direct contact type but not bad.
As for playing at the level of a Hyper 212 - You know I've already went way beyond that. 

@bug  That's what it looks like in the pics on that site, the pipes do appear to down to the very bottom of the base. 
I could be wrong though.


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## bug (Dec 12, 2018)

Vayra86 said:


> At the level of the Hyper 212 I've always been partial to Gelid myself. They offer a better fan, at least a more silent one. Yes even better than Scythe.
> 
> https://gelidsolutions.com/thermal-solutions/cpu-cooler-rev-4-tranquillo-2/
> 
> Tends to go out for about 26-30 EUR over here.


I've been using Arctic ever since they were called Arctic Cooling. Sure, I don't overclock much (if at all).


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## dirtyferret (Dec 12, 2018)

Bones said:


> Believe it or not Scythe does have at least one that way but it's a cheaper one too. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W04C65843
> You'll have to look carefully at the bottom of the cooler in the pics but it's clearly a pipe contact cooler.
> 
> For the money this one I believe is the best balance between price and performance within the Scythe family of coolers: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9ZH3S91295
> ...



I like Scythe and actually have use their CPU fans on several of my builds including one with a CM 212+ and 212 hyper.  I find all CM fans (case and CPU) to be too noisy.


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## Bones (Dec 12, 2018)

I have a really old Arctic Cooling cooler and from the moment it arrived I didn't like it.
From being incredibly hard to mount, the fan being held on by some rubber "Thingys" that eventually broke, to the actual block surface itself being rough and uneven, I've stayed away from anything related to that maker eversince.
And it was supposedly a "Good" one - Clearly not from what I got.


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## Vayra86 (Dec 12, 2018)

dirtyferret said:


> I like Scythe and actually have use their CPU fans on several of my builds including one with a CM 212+ and 212 hyper.  I find all CM fans (case and CPU) to be too noisy.



For midrange (40-50 EUR/$) this one is still unbeatable and has been for many years

http://www.scythe-eu.com/produkte/cpu-kuehler/mugen-5-revb.html


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## Bones (Dec 12, 2018)

That is a good cooler.


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## dirtyferret (Dec 12, 2018)

Vayra86 said:


> For midrange (40-50 EUR/$) this one is still unbeatable and has been for many years
> 
> http://www.scythe-eu.com/produkte/cpu-kuehler/mugen-5-revb.html


I use a noctua U12s on my main PC.  It's pricier but does the job well.


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## Vario (Dec 12, 2018)

dirtyferret said:


> this, I've played around the 212 and two fans and never saw a diffenerence in temps that was greater then 1c.  I beleive it was maximum pc that did a similar test several years back with the exact same results.


Push/pull is overrated in my opinion.
I tried 2 fans on my PHTC12DX and it was hotter than running with a single fan.  The best results I saw was running a single very powerful fan.  I also tried running three fans on my PHTC14PE and it was the same temperature but noisier than running two fans.  I also tried running a single fan on my PHTC14PE and it was only about 1 degree warmer than running two fans.

More fans doesn't make the heatsink any better.  In fact, because the second fan isn't counter rotating, it can impair the efficiency of the cooler by generating turbulence.  Also if you have a second fan on the backside of the heatsink and then a third fan only an inch away that is the case exhaust, you end up with a lot of turbulence without increasing throughput.

There are various tricks to getting a cooler machine that don't involve buying more fans.  You pretty much have to use trial and error with each case to figure out the best way.  As a general rule you don't want obstructions in front of or behind the fans.  This goes for arranging your hard drives if they are behind the fans, or tucking wiring away from the path of air.  I also found that removing the unused PCI slot covers reduced my graphics card temperatures.  Removing grills can increase the throughput substantially and reduce the noise but are a hazard to fingers.  So I don't run a rear case exhaust fan grill.  If you must run grills, the best grills are the wire grills.  The worst kind are the perforated mesh grills, which impair air flow substantially and generate a lot of whistle noise.  I also don't run intake dust filters because I have a room with minimal dust.  I blast the case out every 1 to 2 months with compressed air but there is very little dust buildup ever because I keep the room clean, don't have pets, and vacuum frequently.  Most importantly I have the case on my desk, which keeps it off the floor.  Keeping the case free of dust will reduce temperatures.  The great thing about optimizing your case for airflow is it doesn't cost you anything and it reduces the fan noise because you need fewer fans and they run at lower RPM.


Here is an article on grill patterns: https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Effects-of-Grill-Patterns-on-Fan-Performance-Noise-107/
Here is doyll's big megathread on how to run a cool system: https://www.overclock.net/forum/246...ing-airflow-cooler-fan-data.html#post22319249
effect of filter on airflow: https://silverstonetek.com/techtalk_cont.php?area=en&tid=wh12_008


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## eidairaman1 (Dec 12, 2018)

Skip the 8400, you are just limiting yourself


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## Jose Jeswin (Dec 13, 2018)

Vario said:


> Push/pull is overrated in my opinion.
> I tried 2 fans on my PHTC12DX and it was hotter than running with a single fan.  The best results I saw was running a single very powerful fan.  I also tried running three fans on my PHTC14PE and it was the same temperature but noisier than running two fans.  I also tried running a single fan on my PHTC14PE and it was only about 1 degree warmer than running two fans.
> 
> More fans doesn't make the heatsink any better.  In fact, because the second fan isn't counter rotating, it can impair the efficiency of the cooler by generating turbulence.  Also if you have a second fan on the backside of the heatsink and then a third fan only an inch away that is the case exhaust, you end up with a lot of turbulence without increasing throughput.
> ...



Doing the same as Vario said....some pics...


















filters on front and side intakes..


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## Vario (Dec 13, 2018)

between the grill and the filter combination shown below it is a miracle any air passes through.  You also have a fan on your heatsink that is mere inches away from the case exhaust fan

If you need to run filters run the nylon kind, those metal filters are very restrictive.

No need to run grills on the internal fans either.



Jose Jeswin said:


> Doing the same as Vario said....some pics...
> 
> View attachment 112456
> 
> filters on front and side intakes..


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## Jose Jeswin (Dec 13, 2018)

that plastic grille came with the case...made a whistling sound when the side intake fan was running...now using only fan...






requires frequent cleaning though..

the grills on the internal fans are for the look only....besides it protects the fan blades from any hanging wires.....and i once found a spider inside my case...i put on the grills after that...


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## Vario (Dec 13, 2018)

Up to you, that style grill doesn't restrict much but it doesn't serve much of a purpose, you can zip tie wires down and that type of fan isn't generating enough vacuum to pull cables into it.  Grill probably isn't going to stop a spider from being sucked in LOL.

If you don't mind going to the next level you can trim the honeycomb steel off the side panel intake and the rear exhaust and then run that wire grill (that you have on the CPU fan) on it.  It isn't going to look as nice though unless you are a very good hand with a dremel and files.  I wouldn't bother personally.


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## Jose Jeswin (Dec 13, 2018)

that's true vario......spiders are horrible....and one inside my computer is horrifying..did not use my pc for 2 days after chasing away the spider and cleaning it.. and i taped all other openings with black vinyl tape..


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## Vario (Dec 13, 2018)

Well if they bother you that much atleast you won't feel bad if they get sucked in and die


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## Jose Jeswin (Dec 13, 2018)




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## Bones (Dec 13, 2018)

"Come on in" said the computer to the spider.......


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## Jose Jeswin (Dec 13, 2018)

Itsy bitsy spider went up the computer...


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## Bones (Dec 13, 2018)

And right into the fan........


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## Jose Jeswin (Dec 13, 2018)

Or to log on into the website...



Bones said:


> And right into the fan........


that's a good one..


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## Bones (Dec 13, 2018)

Sounds like you got things under control - Let us know how temps are after the work is done.


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## Jose Jeswin (Dec 13, 2018)

Sure...see the temps..and fan curves...asus motherboard monitor utility..


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## John Naylor (Dec 14, 2018)

Ya really can't make generalizations by adding a fan to 1 cooler and concluding that it will do this of that .... so much depends on so many factors (rpm, design, distance, between fins, etc).  For example, adding a fan won't mean beans if ya can't get the heat out of the case.  Push / pull can add from 10 - 30% to air flow.  It also increases SP but that rarely matters with today's rad and heat sink designs.


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## Vario (Dec 14, 2018)

John Naylor said:


> Ya really can't make generalizations by adding a fan to 1 cooler and concluding that it will do this of that .... so much depends on so many factors (rpm, design, distance, between fins, etc).  For example, adding a fan won't mean beans if ya can't get the heat out of the case.  Push / pull can add from 10 - 30% to air flow.  It also increases SP but that rarely matters with today's rad and heat sink designs.


True, everything is trial and error because all hardware and cases combinations have different results.  Part of the fun of PC building is trying different combinations to see what works.  I built a couple boxes for some friends with 212s and the heatsink itself is pretty good, some of them had really stellar temperature actually, but didn't notice much difference at all from adding second Coolermaster blademaster fans, I think a better fan would have been a better purchase instead of the two cheap 212 fans and in most of these cases the rear heatsink fan was an inch from the rear case exhaust, it would have made more sense to make a duct.


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## Jose Jeswin (Dec 15, 2018)

i have installed a 5.25 inch hdd cooler without a hdd as an intake fan....it is inline with the cpu cooler behind it..


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## FreedomEclipse (Dec 15, 2018)

Jose Jeswin said:


> i have installed a 5.25 inch hdd cooler without a hdd as an intake fan....it is inline with the cpu cooler behind it..
> 
> View attachment 112589View attachment 112590View attachment 112591View attachment 112592



Total waste of time and wont do anything else but make a lot more noise and push dust into your case.

What you want to do is toss that optical drive and throw in one of these Lian Li BZ-502B. These things used to be a lot more popular and cheaper but as cases got better with airflow  as time went by and companies stopped making them. Akasa, Antec, Coolermaster, Scythe as well as a few others used to make them about 5-8years ago...

If you really need an optical drive then buy an external one form Amazon or ebay. They honestly dont cost that much anymore. I can get a nice looking Samsung one for £20.

I have a LiteOn ETAU108-02 that i bought back in 2011 that used to see a fair amount of use with laptops and my PC in the early days but its been collecting dust on the shelf when most games or software i buy is a digital download and even things like an OS can now be installed off a USB stick....

also... upgrade your case fans to something for the Noctua Redux line. or have one Redux at the back and a Corsair ML for the front


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## Jose Jeswin (Dec 15, 2018)

I use the optical drive a lot...so leaving it as is for the time being...sadly that lian li case fan does not show any options for shipping to india...nice one though...will keep looking if one is available..


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## FreedomEclipse (Dec 15, 2018)

Heres a cheaper and alternative option....

I used one of these with my Corsair H80i in a Fractal Define XL case back in the day All you need to do is buy a dust filter and youre good to go. It might not be the prettiest option but it is a lot cheaper than the Lian Li


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## Gorstak (Dec 15, 2018)

I wouldn't buy the 2nd fan, and instead use the case exaust fan

@Jose Jeswin I made a custom case just like the one on your picture, made the hole myself and put a fan exactly like on your picture. The case had a handle for carrying above it's whole topside. Think I exhanged that case with 1800 XP barton and Leadtek K7NCR18D PRO2 inside that could go to 2ghz for a 22" Flat Phillips CRT. Dude came all the way from Croatia capitol to my town to make the exchange. It wasn't a profitable trade for me, but I got a very decent screen at the time to complete my new Q6600 rig. Was using a 17" CRT until then. That was back in 2006 or 7. My mobo was the top mobo for barton, but most people were buying Epox 8RDA+ at the time, and IMHO, mine was better. Still remember the lively arguments on usenet about it. hr.comp.hardver I think.


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## Jose Jeswin (Dec 15, 2018)

That's nice gorstak...


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