# My Watercooling Setup



## Heldelance (Nov 26, 2012)

Hi all,

So I'm looking to jump into watercooling and have just put together a bunch of parts. I'm located in Australia so I don't really have access to as many products.

I've got an AMD Phenom 2 X4 and the GPU is a Gigabyte GTX570.

The parts I've come up with are below. (I'll probably use car coolant + distilled water in a 1:3 ratio for the coolant)

GPU - EK Full Cover VGA Block EK-FC570 GTX SE Acetal+EN Nickel = $69
CPU - Koolance CPU-380A CPU Water Block for AMD = $75
Pump - XSPC X2O 750 Dual Bay Reservoir and Pump V4 = $65
Tubes - 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubes, just plain clear tubes // Koolance Hose Clamp for OD 19mm (3/4in)
Fittings - XSPC G1/4 Chrome 1/2 Barb Fitting
Radiator - XSPC RX480 Radiator =$120 / OR / XSPC RX360 Radiator = $84
Other - XSPC LCD Temperature Sensor Blue = $6
      - Bitspower UV Reactive O-Rings UV Blue = $4.50 (best to have spares)

If anyone knows of any good stores in Australia (for W/C parts), please do tell.


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## drdeathx (Nov 26, 2012)

2 rads? 1 x 120.3 rad is plenty for your CPU and 2 GPU's. Just get the RX360 and your set. The RX360 is plenty to dissapate the heat on your system. the RX480 is overkill.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 26, 2012)

Look at XSPC block or EK block like these....

http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata..._info&cPath=59_971_498_1124&products_id=32332

http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...t_info&cPath=59_971_498_490&products_id=36010

Should be a bit better. Less restrictive and better temps. Along with being cheaper.


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## Delta6326 (Nov 26, 2012)

DO NOT USE CAR COOLANT. 

Just distilled will work with a silver coil, or a premixed coolant. RX series work great.


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## Heldelance (Nov 26, 2012)

What's the problem with car coolant? I had someone mention not to use pure coolant but that diluted, it works quite well?

Also, is the CPU waterblock I chose that much worse than the other two you mentioned?

The way I'm going to be setting this up was to have 2 separate tubes for the GPU and CPU.

From the Radiator, 1 tube to the CPU and 1 to the GPU. The 'exhaust' from both would link together and feed back into the reservoir.


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## MT Alex (Nov 26, 2012)

You might want to draw your loop out on paper so you get a better handle on things.  What you have invisioned isn't possible.  First, water cannot flow OUT of both fittings on a rad.  Secondly, you need to get water back to the rad, as well.


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## Outback Bronze (Nov 26, 2012)

Ive been using 100% car coolant for 10 years no issues.


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## Heldelance (Nov 26, 2012)

Oh, what I meant with the loop is that I'd have a splitter coming out of the rad into 2 separate tubes feeding into the CPU and GPU. After that, the outlets from both GPU and CPU are brought back together into a single tube to the reservoir.


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## DJCyclone (Nov 26, 2012)

Heldelance said:


> Oh, what I meant with the loop is that I'd have a splitter coming out of the rad into 2 separate tubes feeding into the CPU and GPU.



You don'y need a splitter. Just go from the Rad to the CPU then to GPU then back to Rad.
CPU is more temp sensitive so needs the coolest water. After the CPU has dumped some heat to the water it will still be cool enough for the GPU.


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## cdawall (Nov 26, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Look at XSPC block or EK block like these....
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata..._info&cPath=59_971_498_1124&products_id=32332
> 
> ...



Actually the koolance block is the least restrictive best performing block sold right now.



Delta6326 said:


> DO NOT USE CAR COOLANT.
> 
> Just distilled will work with a silver coil, or a premixed coolant. RX series work great.



Why not? Several people here run it instead of all those silver coil and terrible pc coolant that gum blocks up. I wouldn't run 100% because water has better cooling properties as well as being thinner. Hence why I said in the other thread 25% coolant and the rest deionized water.



drdeathx said:


> 2 rads? 1 x 120.3 rad is plenty for your CPU and 2 GPU's. Just get the RX360 and your set. The RX360 is plenty to dissapate the heat on your system. the RX480 is overkill.



That only gives each part a 120mm radiator surface it would hardly be worth the cost at that point. A single 480 would allow lower speed fans and give better overall temps.


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## drdeathx (Nov 26, 2012)

cdawall said:


> Actually the koolance block is the least restrictive best performing block sold right now.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



There would be little difference with the system he has.


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## Delta6326 (Nov 26, 2012)

Well i have heard some people that used it and it messed up the pump, but I'm not for sure what ratio they used.


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## cdawall (Nov 26, 2012)

drdeathx said:


> There would be little difference with the system he has.



How so the 480 can dissipate roughly 200 watts more, would allow a lower tdelta and allows the use of quieter lower speed fans for a minor price difference. If anything the 360 is a minor change in price for negative performance. He is on AMD and they Mem to be pushing out higher and higher watt cpu's it makes sense to overbuild the loop so he is not rebuilding the loop for the next upgrade.


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## Jack1n (Nov 26, 2012)

The 420 rad is kind of an overkill for that system,you would usually only go for a 420 with 3 gpus,but if he can afford it and has room in his case then why not?


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## drdeathx (Nov 26, 2012)

jack1n said:


> the 420 rad is kind of an overkill for that system,you would usually only go for a 420 with 3 gpus,but if he can afford it and has room in his case then why not?




+1


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## drdeathx (Nov 26, 2012)

cdawall said:


> How so the 480 can dissipate roughly 200 watts more, would allow a lower tdelta and allows the use of quieter lower speed fans for a minor price difference. If anything the 360 is a minor change in price for negative performance. He is on AMD and they Mem to be pushing out higher and higher watt cpu's it makes sense to overbuild the loop so he is not rebuilding the loop for the next upgrade.





its simple. The 360 is large enough to dissapate. I ran one on a multiple Phenom setup and ran mid 50's at 1.62 volts with 2 x 5870's and the GPU's barely touched 60 overclocked and overvolted...... a 480 ain't gonna cool any better. The 480 is overkill and much more difficult to manuever inside a case.


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## cdawall (Nov 26, 2012)

drdeathx said:


> its simple. The 360 is large enough to dissapate. I ran one on a multiple Phenom setup and ran mid 50's at 1.62 volts with 2 x 5870's and the GPU's barely touched 60 overclocked and overvolted...... a 480 ain't gonna cool any better. The 480 is overkill and much more difficult to manuever inside a case.



Mid 50's sucks on water thats higher than my aircooled one runs at 4.2ghz 1.65v. A 480 rad *will* lower the tdelta. No if, ands or buts.


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## drdeathx (Nov 26, 2012)

cdawall said:


> Mid 50's sucks on water thats higher than my aircooled one runs at 4.2ghz 1.65v. A 480 rad *will* lower the tdelta. No if, ands or buts.



Bullshit 1.65 volts mid 50's on air on a Phenom II quad core? What are you smoking? I wish you would quit trying to prove you have testosterone. I reviewed air coolers on Phenom II's and also the actual chips in the past.....  You high CD. BTW this is under load. I thought you would figure that out.


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## cdawall (Nov 27, 2012)

drdeathx said:


> Bullshit 1.65 volts mid 50's on air on a Phenom II quad core? What are you smoking? I wish you would quit trying to prove you have testosterone. I reviewed air coolers on Phenom II's and also the actual chips in the past.....  You high CD. BTW this is under load. I thought you would figure that out.



My air cooling may or may not be considered air cooling by most. CM V10 with a 96W TEC and 90+ CFM high static pressure fans installed


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## drdeathx (Nov 27, 2012)

cdawall said:


> My air cooling may or may not be considered air cooling by most. CM V10 with a 96W TEC and 90+ CFM high static pressure fans installed



thats not air cooling


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## cdawall (Nov 27, 2012)

drdeathx said:


> thats not air cooling



But but it's still an air cooler!


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## Heldelance (Nov 27, 2012)

Just to clarify, does the radiator actually need to be on the case? 

I was going to make a "cage" for it so I could put it on the window and thus have the hot air blowing out of my room. (At the moment my air cooled PC makes the room rather warm after a few hours)

Thanks for the responses people, this really clears up a lot for me.

---

My AMD is currently on stock (first AMD in a while, don't really know how to o/c it properly. Only done Intels up to now) and has an OCZ HS, that huge tower one. I've got a Scythe Kama (I think?) fan on it.


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## cdawall (Nov 27, 2012)

The radiator can be external no issues with that. Just make sure you have a good pump.


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## drdeathx (Nov 27, 2012)

cdawall said:


> But but it's still an air cooler!





uggh.


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## drdeathx (Nov 27, 2012)

Heldelance said:


> Just to clarify, does the radiator actually need to be on the case?
> 
> I was going to make a "cage" for it so I could put it on the window and thus have the hot air blowing out of my room. (At the moment my air cooled PC makes the room rather warm after a few hours)
> 
> ...



I use mine external. It makes things easier if you tinker with your system a lot. I actually migrated to a tec station.

I think u mean ultra kaze?


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## Heldelance (Nov 27, 2012)

Yeah, that's the fan.

Are the tubes really that expensive BTW? I figure I'll need 8 tubes and it's 9 bucks a pop (nothing cheaper).

---

edit: nevermind, found the same tube but in a 10ft length for $25 AUD.


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## sneekypeet (Nov 27, 2012)

You get like 10 foot rolls for around $20 - $25.


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## cdawall (Nov 27, 2012)

drdeathx said:


> uggh.



[/sarcasm]  I know were you are coming from that's why I mentioned what I was specifically using. 

I still vote RX480 no point in half assing something, but this is also coming from the guy running an MCR420/MCR220/MCR320 all internal of the case and only cooling maybe 800w of a maximum heat load. That being said idle temps and load temps are more or less the same.



Heldelance said:


> Yeah, that's the fan.
> 
> Are the tubes really that expensive BTW? I figure I'll need 8 tubes and it's 9 bucks a pop (nothing cheaper).
> 
> ...



Any of your PC stores sell it by the foot? I went through 10ft doing my build, but mine was a bit more complicated than most (3 rads, 3 video cards, CPU, res, dual pumps)


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## Heldelance (Nov 27, 2012)

I'll probably get the 10ft coil because I like a lot of extra headroom (if I screw something up).

I am leaning on the RX480 only because I don't want to have to upgrade too much when I get new parts for my PC (At the moment I gotta wait a month or two before I have the scratch to get these parts). 

cdawall: do you happen to know where I could find a starter's guide on o/c-ing AMD Phenom 2s? I'm a n00b to AMDs.


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## cdawall (Nov 27, 2012)

You can check the Phenom II club out shoot me a PM and I can help some or post in there and I can share some wisdom. Basic idea is keep voltage under 1.6v if you want the chip to last forever keep temps under 55C load to keep things nice and stable with higher clocks and bump the HTT (bus speed) up and if you have an unlocked chip bump the multi up.


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## Heldelance (Nov 27, 2012)

Just had a look in thread. 

Bloody hell mate, you don't do things by the halves do you? 4.9 ghz?!


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## cdawall (Nov 27, 2012)

Heldelance said:


> Just had a look in thread.
> 
> Bloody hell mate, you don't do things by the halves do you? 4.9 ghz?!



Beat that one with a 5+ run latest I got the current b97 to pop 4500mhz on an h70


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## Heldelance (Nov 27, 2012)

Sweet.

I'm pretty sure I have a 955 but I can't recall what board it's on, UD5P kinda springs to mind though. Gonna have a dig through the BIOS tonight to check out how to clock it and get myself acquainted with the screen.


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## drdeathx (Nov 27, 2012)

cdawall said:


> Beat that one with a 5+ run latest I got the current b97 to pop 4500mhz on an h70
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/cache/screenshot/588131.png



I like the way the voltage is grayed out on the CPUZ shot and its on 2 cores. Nothing like pretending you got the clock on normal conditions. 

Give him realistic overclocks....

Here is a realistic overclock on water similiar to what your building that I pulled from my archives at about 1.6volts....


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## ALMOSTunseen (Nov 27, 2012)

You can check out http://www.pccasegear.com/
and
http://www.gammods.com.au/store/


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## cdawall (Nov 27, 2012)

Heldelance said:


> Sweet.
> 
> I'm pretty sure I have a 955 but I can't recall what board it's on, UD5P kinda springs to mind though. Gonna have a dig through the BIOS tonight to check out how to clock it and get myself acquainted with the screen.



790FX version of the UD5P? I gave that board to my younger bro last year its a good little board. His has a Phenom II X4 910 C2 chip chugging along at 3.7ghz ish for 3 years now(not bad for a stock 2.6ghz chip) 



drdeathx said:


> I like the way the voltage is grayed out on the CPUZ shot. Nothing like pretending you got the clock on normal conditions.
> 
> Give him realistic overclocks....



He brought up that I hit 4.9ghz that post has photo's of DICE and what not used  CPUz is lacking voltage because it is a valid screenie from version 1.51 didn't support those things. 

With a GOOD C3 955 there is no reason he can't get 4.2-4.3ghz stable on water, but it will be with a good chunk of voltage. 4.0-4.1ghz is a lot more reasonable of a clock.


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## drdeathx (Nov 27, 2012)

cdawall said:


> 790FX version of the UD5P? I gave that board to my younger bro last year its a good little board. His has a Phenom II X4 910 C2 chip chugging along at 3.7ghz ish for 3 years now(not bad for a stock 2.6ghz chip)
> 
> 
> 
> ...





Dice should get much higher....

I see yours is a B96 but on a 980 I got over 4.7GHz on water suicide






Here is my dice run


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## cdawall (Nov 27, 2012)

drdeathx said:


> Dice should get much higher....



Most didn't that was a while back on a C2 chip. Still holds the number two spot for DICE on HWBOT. Heck it's even on a 790GX board 

Here is the guy who beat me on DICE.

My B97 is a low leak chip I am going to try for higher on it, but the current board is a bit old kind of tapped out.


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## Heldelance (Nov 27, 2012)

Just told a mate of mine that it's about $130 for the radiator I'm getting. He's a car nut and pointed me to a full aluminium custom radiator for $280. 

Am I nuts for thinking about getting that instead?


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## cdawall (Nov 27, 2012)

Heldelance said:


> Just told a mate of mine that it's about $130 for the radiator I'm getting. He's a car nut and pointed me to a full aluminium custom radiator for $280.
> 
> Am I nuts for thinking about getting that instead?



Don't get an aluminum radiator.


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## drdeathx (Nov 27, 2012)

Heldelance said:


> Just told a mate of mine that it's about $130 for the radiator I'm getting. He's a car nut and pointed me to a full aluminium custom radiator for $280.
> 
> Am I nuts for thinking about getting that instead?





Mixing metals will not work. The loop will corrode...The rad he mentioned is alluminum and that is a nono plus it will not cool any better than your 480. You need copper.


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## Heldelance (Nov 27, 2012)

Hey, that overclocking tool you're using drdeathx, is that what you'd usually overclock with for an AMD? 

I've only done my intels through the BIOS and didn't touch the RAM or Mobo clocks.


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## cdawall (Nov 27, 2012)

Heldelance said:


> Hey, that overclocking tool you're using drdeathx, is that what you'd usually overclock with for an AMD?
> 
> I've only done my intels through the BIOS and didn't touch the RAM or Mobo clocks.



Most people still clock via the BIOS. His is specifically for Asus boards.


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## drdeathx (Nov 27, 2012)

Heldelance said:


> Hey, that overclocking tool you're using drdeathx, is that what you'd usually overclock with for an AMD?
> 
> I've only done my intels through the BIOS and didn't touch the RAM or Mobo clocks.



Thats Asus TurboV Only on asus boards but ASrock has overclocking software as does Gigabyte. I OC through the bios and make tweaks with the software.


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## Heldelance (Nov 27, 2012)

Oh just realized why you said no to aluminium. are any of the parts I posted going to react with the copper for the radiator? I'm pretty sure most are copper as well but I think the CPU is nickel.


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## drdeathx (Nov 27, 2012)

Heldelance said:


> Oh just realized why you said no to aluminium. are any of the parts I posted going to react with the copper for the radiator? I'm pretty sure most are copper as well but I think the CPU is nickel.





Your good to go with the copper and Nickel. Alluminum is a nono.


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## cdawall (Nov 27, 2012)

Heldelance said:


> Oh just realized why you said no to aluminium. are any of the parts I posted going to react with the copper for the radiator? I'm pretty sure most are copper as well but I think the CPU is nickel.



CPU cooler is a nickel plated base the internals should be straight copper, but as deathy said no reaction to nickel either way.


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## cdawall (Nov 27, 2012)

drdeathx said:


> Here is my dice run



found pic's of mine over on XS
















Kicked a 363 bus speed out of that mobo as well. Heck of a thing that 790GX board.


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## ALMOSTunseen (Nov 27, 2012)

cdawall said:


> found pic's of mine over on XS
> 
> http://img.techpowerup.org/090617/DSCF2105.jpg
> 
> ...


That like a thermal Putty you've got on the mobo?


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## cdawall (Nov 27, 2012)

ALMOSTunseen said:


> That like a thermal Putty you've got on the mobo?



Kneaded eraser...keeps the board from freezing up and comes off without scaring the board.


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## drdeathx (Nov 27, 2012)

cdawall said:


> Kneaded eraser...keeps the board from freezing up and comes off without scaring the board.



CD??? Keeps condensation off board..LOL


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## drdeathx (Nov 27, 2012)

cdawall said:


> Kneaded eraser...keeps the board from freezing up and comes off without scaring the board.



CD, who makes you Pot?


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## cdawall (Nov 27, 2012)

drdeathx said:


> CD??? Keeps condensation off board..LOL



I know...? That's why it was there keep board from freezing up ie getting frost on it.



drdeathx said:


> CD, who makes you Pot?



N3RO made it a couple years back.



drdeathx said:


> Dice should get much higher....
> 
> I see yours is a B96 but on a 980 I got over 4.7GHz on water suicide
> 
> http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq77/AAdeath/4739.png














Will be curious to revisit this chip with my CHVF when it gets back from RMA land. Not to shabby for 4 dimms installed and still running full speed.


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## Heldelance (Nov 28, 2012)

What's "water suicide"?


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## Heldelance (Nov 28, 2012)

Dangit, the Koolance waterblock for the AMDs are sold out. Unfortunately it's bloody hard to find a good online store for Australia...

----

How's this CPU waterblock?

Swiftech Apogee Drive II CPU Waterblock & Pump For AMD APD2-AMD

It's apparently also got a pump on it as well.


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## THE_EGG (Nov 28, 2012)

Heldelance said:


> Dangit, the Koolance waterblock for the AMDs are sold out. Unfortunately it's bloody hard to find a good online store for Australia...



Umart is online and have a few actual stores around Australia. Give them a try if you want, www.umart.com.au . I've had great after sales service and quick delivery. PCcasegear is supposed to be good too but I haven't used them. Same goes for scorptec.


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## Feänor (Nov 28, 2012)

Heldelance said:


> Unfortunately it's bloody hard to find a good online store for Australia...



Try international: there's maybe some shops shipping from america or europe to you?

Now about coolant:

I'll try to be as clear as possible here: nothing (short of some gas) can beat the pure distillated water when it comes to store/transport heat (4,2 J/kgK is just way over anything available). 

Distillated water (not deionized, not anything else, simply that word), which cost less than 1$/L, is the best thing to put in a watercooling loop. It is easy to pump (less strain on the pump than the propylene glycol (Prestone and the likes)), is available at any grocery or supermarket near you, cost almost nothing, and will not cause erosion (when you use distillated water, there's in fact some ions from the manufacturing process (the deionized water exists because of that), so it will not induce metal corrosion, nor will it protect from it if you mix different metal in the same loop (good way to destroy a waterblock from inside btw)).

Propylene glycol is added to water in cars and trucks because it lower the temperature at which water freezes. Cars running in non-tropical climate need that, while someone living in mexico could run it's radiator with only water and not see any problem. There's a lot of water additive/color, but all in all they just can do 3 things: 1-color the water 2-kill any living thing in your solution and 3-lower your freezing point (only for those containing any glycol). 

Reality: 1- Any coloring molecule will, over time (think in many months), precipitate and, little by little, clog and/or stain your block; 2-Many chemicals and ions can do this, and you don't need any specific formula to do a clean job. Native silver is one of the best ions to use, as it is easy to put into water solution (a stripe of pure silver can provide enough ions to kill a small aquarium), does not cost that much (the real weight of the wire/coil is minimal) and did keep my clear tubing-open case and sun exposed loop from turning green; 3- Not necessary in this case.

In short, buy colored tubing and fittings to your like, some pure silver coil (readily available on ebay for like 10$), and use distillated water. Not ANYTHING else. And don't mix metal: stick to copper for blocks and to good brand for rads, you will not be disappointed.


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## ALMOSTunseen (Nov 28, 2012)

Heldelance said:


> Dangit, the Koolance waterblock for the AMDs are sold out. Unfortunately it's bloody hard to find a good online store for Australia...
> 
> ----
> 
> ...


Yeah PCcase gear is out, you can try http://www.gammods.com.au/store/
I don't know if that block comes with the pump, It has support for a pump though. Then again, this may be the edition that comes with the pump.


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## Heldelance (Nov 28, 2012)

Thanks mate, I managed to track down the Koolance one by going to their website and going through the resellers. Got it from The Kool Room. All the parts are ordered and should be on their way soon enough. 

I'll probably start popping everything together come christmas time (I've got a week or so off)


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## ALMOSTunseen (Nov 28, 2012)

Heldelance said:


> Thanks mate, I managed to track down the Koolance one by going to their website and going through the resellers. Got it from The Kool Room. All the parts are ordered and should be on their way soon enough.
> 
> I'll probably start popping everything together come christmas time (I've got a week or so off)


Ah yes, should have recommended The kool room, I know them through singularity computers.


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## Heldelance (Nov 28, 2012)

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/on...-Anti-Boil-1-Litre.aspx?pid=11069#Description

The car coolant seems to only come in pre-mixed. Is 33% coolant fine?


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## drdeathx (Nov 28, 2012)

I don't know why the thread is stuck on car coolant. It will not cool any better than water. For your first setup, run distilled water with silvercoil and biocide. Thats all you need.


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## ALMOSTunseen (Nov 28, 2012)

drdeathx said:


> I don't know why the thread is stuck on car coolant. It will not cool any better than water. For your first setup, run distilled water with silvercoil and biocide. Thats all you need.


For all I know the car coolant is too thick as well, probably won't run properly.


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## Heldelance (Nov 28, 2012)

I know that I can't use pure coolant and the coolant just acts as a biocide / anti-freeze / anti-boil. I just figured that as the coolant is also anti-corrosion, it'd be a fair bit better than plane biocide and kill coil.


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## ALMOSTunseen (Nov 28, 2012)

Heldelance said:


> I know that I can't use pure coolant and the coolant just acts as a biocide / anti-freeze / anti-boil. I just figured that as the coolant is also anti-corrosion, it'd be a fair bit better than plane biocide and kill coil.


Don't waste your time buddy, just go with proper watercooling coolant. Some things are just a no. Car coolant is meant for a car, its for a practical purpose, and its dirty, its not the same grade as computer coolant.


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## cdawall (Nov 28, 2012)

Heldelance said:


> I know that I can't use pure coolant and the coolant just acts as a biocide / anti-freeze / anti-boil. I just figured that as the coolant is also anti-corrosion, it'd be a fair bit better than plane biocide and kill coil.



It is it works great probably. I never had issues with algae build up running biocide alone but that loop was only together a few months. I rather like the several year between tear downs on my coolant loop.



ALMOSTunseen said:


> Don't waste your time buddy, just go with proper watercooling coolant. Some things are just a no. Car coolant is meant for a car, its for a practical purpose, and its dirty, its not the same grade as computer coolant.



Your kidding right most pc coolants clog the check out of the loop.


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## drdeathx (Nov 28, 2012)

ALMOSTunseen said:


> For all I know the car coolant is too thick as well, probably won't run properly.



Actually, It has a high probability of burning the pump out.


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## cdawall (Nov 28, 2012)

drdeathx said:


> Actually, It has a high probability of burning the pump out.



If you run it pure sure but we are talking a 25% mixture which makes it barely thicker than water if any thicker and plenty thinner than what is sold by feser and many other companies.


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## drdeathx (Nov 28, 2012)

cdawall said:


> If you run it pure sure but we are talking a 25% mixture which makes it barely thicker than water if any thicker and plenty thinner than what is sold by feser and many other companies.



I have a watercooling buddy that does extensive testing with flow rates/waterblocks and rads and he says it is not a good idea. It is thicker and these pumps are not designed to run anything but water. Will it work? yes but thicker can burn a pump out. 99.99% of the community does not use this mixture. If your not putting the rad in sub freezing conditions, there is NO reason to use anti freeze.


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## INSTG8R (Nov 28, 2012)

Actually back in the day when Asetek was still doing real water cooling loops they used to ship them with Red Line Water Wetter. Used to sell it in little syringes that were the perfect "dose" for the system. I don't even wanna think how many of those syringes I went thru messing around with "My First Water Loop"


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## cdawall (Nov 28, 2012)

drdeathx said:


> I have a watercooling buddy that does extensive testing with flow rates/waterblocks and rads and he says it is not a good idea. It is thicker and these pumps are not designed to run anything but water. Will it work? yes but thicker can burn a pump out. 99.99% of the community does not use this mixture. If your not putting the rad in sub freezing conditions, there is NO reason to use anti freeze.



If that's the case people need to stop using high restriction blocks and rads as well.


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## mm67 (Nov 28, 2012)

drdeathx said:


> I have a watercooling buddy that does extensive testing with flow rates/waterblocks and rads and he says it is not a good idea. It is thicker and these pumps are not designed to run anything but water. Will it work? yes but thicker can burn a pump out. 99.99% of the community does not use this mixture. If your not putting the rad in sub freezing conditions, there is NO reason to use anti freeze.



According to manufacturer specs both DDC and D5 are designed to be used with with/water-glycol mixes.

D5 : http://www.lowara.com/lowdata/doc/EN/ecocircd5vario-ed-en.pdf
DDC : http://www.lowara.com/lowdata/doc/EN/ddc-ed-en.pdf


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## Heldelance (Nov 29, 2012)

When I first set up the loop, to flush it, should I link up everything but have the return feed to the reservoir in the sink, or would it be best to flush the parts out one at a time?

For the flushing, should I be using distilled water or is filtered (like those brita water filters) water fine?


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## INSTG8R (Nov 29, 2012)

Heldelance said:


> When I first set up the loop, to flush it, should I link up everything but have the return feed to the reservoir in the sink, or would it be best to flush the parts out one at a time?
> 
> For the flushing, should I be using distilled water or is filtered (like those brita water filters) water fine?



Only ever use Distilled Water. The only other thing you can "safely" add is vinegar(some may disagree with me on that one tho) But NEVER run anything but pure Distilled Water thru it anything else will have contaminants. At least where I live I can buy it buy the litre at any Gas Station as Battery Water. Very cheap and plentiful.


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## Feänor (Nov 29, 2012)

Heldelance said:


> For the flushing, should I be using distilled water or is filtered (like those brita water filters) water fine?



Did you read what i posted? I did try to explain it to you...


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## Heldelance (Nov 29, 2012)

sorry mate, just read it just then. Must've missed it earlier.


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## vawrvawerawe (Nov 29, 2012)




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## Heldelance (Nov 29, 2012)

Hahahah, alright alright, I'll put some up when the parts arrive.


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## Feänor (Nov 29, 2012)

Heldelance said:


> sorry mate, just read it just then. Must've missed it earlier.



No trouble. I just really want to keep your setup simple and the least expensive possible!


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## Heldelance (Dec 4, 2012)

I'll probably make a new thread to show my parts and the setup (in the Project Logs section). Gonna try to make a custom setup for the radiator (doesn't event fit on top of the case), have it sorta hanging out the window like an a/c so that the warm air doesn't vent into my room.


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## exodusprime1337 (Dec 4, 2012)

ALMOSTunseen said:


> For all I know the car coolant is too thick as well, probably won't run properly.



the problem with car coolant only is a few things.  

1 it's meant for cars
2 it's think and won't flow like water will
3 it isn't exactly a formula optimized for cooling, it simply won't corrode metal and has a mild biocide in it


i prefer feser one, it tests in some instances better than distilled water, and it has the right amount of biocide/anticorrosives to be an effective coolant

i don't mind distilled with kill coil and biocide either, i just don't think it's easy to get the right combination of biocide to not kill the performance of the water.


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## exodusprime1337 (Dec 4, 2012)

drdeathx said:


> I have a watercooling buddy that does extensive testing with flow rates/waterblocks and rads and he says it is not a good idea. It is thicker and these pumps are not designed to run anything but water. Will it work? yes but thicker can burn a pump out. 99.99% of the community does not use this mixture. If your not putting the rad in sub freezing conditions, there is NO reason to use anti freeze.



he should put his results online then.. it's hard to find good reviewers and testors outside of skineelabs


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## cdawall (Dec 4, 2012)

exodusprime1337 said:


> the problem with car coolant only is a few things.
> 
> 1 it's meant for cars
> 2 it's think and won't flow like water will
> ...



Feser coolant is ethylene glycol. You are paying extra money for the exact same thing.


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## m1dg3t (Dec 4, 2012)

Been W/C for almost 10yrs. Destilled/deionized + some automotive A/F and you are GOLDEN!

Premixed coolants are a waste of $$$.

Straight water is the best.


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