# Computer won't start up at all



## Peacekeeper (Apr 12, 2012)

I built my first computer yesterday. I did a lot of research into building my own PC before I purchased anything and I had some guidance from someone more knowledgeable than me.

The computer was working fine yesterday, but I mistakenly put on Windows 7 32bit OS instead of 64bit so this morning I decided to reinstall the correct OS. It almost got to the end of the install when the computer switched off. Since then it hasn't worked - The machine wont turn on at all other than a green led on the motherboard .

I opened it up and unplugged and replugged in everything in case something was loose. I saw a similar topic on this forum and attempted some of the suggestions on there too. 

Note: when I turn the power off and on at the wall and then try to start up the machine the processor fan spins once and a small red light on the motherboard flashs on once, though the manual doesn't indicate what that means.

The Specs are: 

Coolermaster GX 750W PSU
Asus M5A97 PRO 970 Socket AM3+ 8 Channel HD Audio ATX Motherboard
AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition 3.4GHz Socket AM3 6MB L3 Cache Cache 125W [w/ heat sink unit]
8GB GB (2x4GB) DDR3 2133MHz 

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


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## jsfitz54 (Apr 12, 2012)

Is there a Bios reset switch on the motherboard or backpanel?  If there is, try that first.

Start by disconnecting the HD, optical drives or anything else other than motherboard, memory and graphics and try to boot.

Try booting with one memory stick. (make sure it is in correct slot for single stick per motherboard manual)

Power supply could be at fault.

Look at motherboard manual on how to clear CMOS.

What bios was on the motherboard?  If you did not change it, it should be printed on the box...look at inventory tag with serial numbers etc.

http://support.asus.com/download.as... PRO&p=1&s=24&os=30&hashedid=m2rLy0HGICmyYO5b

It may need a bios update.  #1102 newest.

http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/detail.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&m=M5A97 PRO&cpu=Phenom IIX4 965 (HDZ965FBK4DGM),3.4GHz,125W,rev.C3,SocketAM3,Quad-Core&pcb=ALL&sincebios=0402&memo=


*Why is the power turned on and off at wall switch?*


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## TheMailMan78 (Apr 12, 2012)

Can you take a picture of the mobo with the red led on? The placement of the led should help tell you what the issue is via the manual.


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## jsfitz54 (Apr 12, 2012)

TheMailMan78 said:


> The placement of the led should help tell you what the issue is via the manual



Motherboard diagram should show what those LED's correspond to.


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## lilhasselhoffer (Apr 12, 2012)

Simplest question
1) Did you read about the features on your motherboard?  This seems to be a memory issue, as defined by the MemOk! feature on your board.  Check this page out, straight from ASUS: http://bg.asus.com/Motherboards/Features/MemOK/.  Perhaps this feature is what you're describing by a red light..?


Simple solution
1) Power down, unplug from the wall socket, and wait ~ 5 minutes.
2) Removes CMOS battery, wait 30 seconds, plug battery back in.
3) Attempt a restart.

If simple solution does not work
1) Unplug all drives, but leave all power connectors (usually two 4-pins and a 24 pin) to motherboard connected.
2) Attempt to start computer, and get into BIOS/UEFI.
3) If you can get to BIOS/UEFI then shut down the computer.
4) Download a copy of the ultimate boot disk, and create a bootable disc or USB drive.
5) Run ultimate boot disk, hooking up whatever you need to get it running only.
6) Check hardware for faults.

If you cannot get to BIOS/UEFI
1) You have a motherboard fault, it's time for an RMA.

If you get hardware issues
1) You have a motherboard fault, it's time for an RMA.

If you get to BIOS/UEFI, and have no hardware issues:
1) Do you have a sufficient power supply?  A low wattage, or poorly constructed power supply will not provide enough power for operation.  A PSU will shutdown if there is too much draw, which would only occur after a couple seconds of operation.  If you've got a low wattage, or no-name PSU brand it might be time for a replacement.
2) Do you have a functional HDD/SSD?  A dead HDD can make any build difficult.  Try running a version of Linux that requires only a CD/USB drive (puppy dog or mint are personal favorites), and if it works you know the HDD/SSD is dead.
3) Error codes?  If there is a small speaker for your board connect it.  The beeps are an error code that you can track down...


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## TheMailMan78 (Apr 12, 2012)

lilhasselhoffer said:


> Simplest question
> 1) Did you read about the features on your motherboard?  This seems to be a memory issue, as defined by the MemOk! feature on your board.  Check this page out, straight from ASUS: http://bg.asus.com/Motherboards/Features/MemOK/.  Perhaps this feature is what you're describing by a red light..?
> 
> 
> ...



Check the led first.



jsfitz54 said:


> Motherboard diagram should show what those LED's correspond to.



I know. They put the leds on mobos for a reason. This is why I want him to post a picture or look it up in the manual. If its memory then its a "simple" fix.


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## lilhasselhoffer (Apr 12, 2012)

TheMailMan78 said:


> Check the led first.



Check out what I linked to.  The "red led" might be anything, but it sounds exactly like what is described in the MemOk! feature.  This is why I started there....


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## jsfitz54 (Apr 12, 2012)

TheMailMan78 said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by jsfitz54
> Motherboard diagram should show what those LED's correspond to.
> 
> I know. They put the leds on mobos for a reason. This is why I want him to post a picture or look it up in the manual. If its memory then its a "simple" fix.



That was for OP.  I know, you know.


Manual page 2.2.7 LED's

Manual page 1.3.3  MemOK


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## TheMailMan78 (Apr 12, 2012)

lilhasselhoffer said:


> Check out what I linked to.  The "red led" might be anything, but it sounds exactly like what is described in the MemOk! feature.  This is why I started there....



It depends on the location. Asus boards have leds all over em. I agree with your solution man. Im just saying we need to take all the steps.


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## Peacekeeper (Apr 12, 2012)

I just cleared the CMOS with direction from manual. And also rest what it refers to as the 'MemOK!' switch, though still no luck with the machine switching on. 

The red LED I spoke of only flashes up for a fraction of a second when I attempt to turn on the computer so I wouldn't be able to photograph it, but I'm pretty sure it refers to the CPU. I looked in the manual and it talks about a solid red light indicating a failure of some sort but not what I am seeing. 



> If simple solution does not work
> 1) Unplug all drives, but leave all power connectors (usually two 4-pins and a 24 pin) to motherboard connected.
> 2) Attempt to start computer, and get into BIOS/UEFI.
> 3) If you can get to BIOS/UEFI then shut down the computer.
> ...



I have tried disconnecting everything though not in this way I will try this next. 

Was hoping it wasn't a hardware failure as it's all brand new and that would just be typical.


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## TheMailMan78 (Apr 12, 2012)

Did you remember the offsets for the mobo? The lil' screws on the back of the mobo? Im sure you did but.......did you?


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## jsfitz54 (Apr 12, 2012)

TheMailMan78 said:


> Did you remember the offsets for the mobo?



FOR THE OP:  Also called "standoffs".

He wants to be sure the mobo is not shorting on the case.  You said It ran ok yesterday but double check to see as some cases are different in design and a preformed/stamped pimple standoff in the wrong area may press against the back of the mobo and short out.

OR as one previous guy did, ran wires under the board and the rubber sheath was pierced by a sharp solder point.


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## Peacekeeper (Apr 12, 2012)

TheMailMan78 said:


> Did you remember the offsets for the mobo? The lil' screws on the back of the mobo? Im sure you did but.......did you?



I'm unsure what you mean by this sorry. Do you mean the little screws behind the motherboard that stand it away from the case which you then screw into to hold the motherboard in place? [Sorry for the bad description but I don't know them by name]

EDIT: Looked up the 'standoff' screws and I did use those yes.


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## TheMailMan78 (Apr 12, 2012)

Please if you can Peacekeeper post some photos. It might help. Might be something stupid we can spot. I'm leaning toward mobo or PSU.



Peacekeeper said:


> I'm unsure what you mean by this sorry. Do you mean the little screws behind the motherboard that stand it away from the case which you then screw into to hold the motherboard in place? [Sorry for the bad description but I don't know them by name]



Thats exactly what I mean. Sounds like you put them in! Which is good. Try taking one stick of ram out. If that doesn't work switch slots. Then try the other stick.

Also it sounds stupid but smell the PSU. If you know what burnt electronics smell like then smell for a hint of that.


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## Peacekeeper (Apr 12, 2012)

TheMailMan78 said:


> Please if you can Peacekeeper post some photos. It might help. Might be something stupid we can spot. I'm leaning toward mobo or PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I will post some pics up in a few mins.

There are 9 offset screws in place, but I just remembered that there is one main screw missing to hold the motherboard down. Could this be effecting it? [I ran out of screws]

It doesn't smell like burning as far as I can tell. I did check because I had a fried motherboard on a different computer.


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## jsfitz54 (Apr 12, 2012)

Peacekeeper said:


> Could this be effecting it? [I ran out of screws]



Should not but to discuss which one:

O          O     O

O          O     O

O          O     O


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## TheMailMan78 (Apr 12, 2012)

Peacekeeper said:


> I will post some pics up in a few mins.
> 
> There are 9 offset screws in place, but I just remembered that there is one main screw missing to hold the motherboard down. Could this be effecting it? [I ran out of screws]
> 
> It doesn't smell like burning as far as I can tell. I did check because I had a fried motherboard on a different computer.



Is it the same PSU you used on the fried mobo?


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## Norton (Apr 12, 2012)

Are the TPU and EPU switches turned off on your board? Your memory is capable of significantly more than the 965BE memory controller can handle. If the TPU switch is on it may be trying to overclock your system too much. Check the switch- if it is on, turn it off and reset your Bios and try to reboot.


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## jsfitz54 (Apr 12, 2012)

TheMailMan78 said:


> Is it the same PSU you used on the fried mobo?



Are all the parts new?


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## TheMailMan78 (Apr 12, 2012)

Norton said:


> Are the TPU and EPU switches turned off on your board? Your memory is capable of significantly more than the 965BE memory controller can handle. If the TPU switch is on it may be trying to overclock your system too much. Check the switch- if it is on, turn it off and reset your Bios and try to reboot.



I don't think thats the issue. It was working fine then just cut off during a windows install. Its bum hardware I think. Unless he hit the switch during installation.......which I sure hope he didn't.


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## jsfitz54 (Apr 12, 2012)

TheMailMan78 said:


> I don't think thats the issue.



I think Norton's idea is good.

New build try OC right away and have problems.

OP said first home build.

Should run everything stock and get accustomed to new hardware then OC.

UEFI is not so user friendly to new builder.

2133 is OC for that board and not Native ram speed.


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## TheMailMan78 (Apr 12, 2012)

jsfitz54 said:


> I think Norton's idea is good.
> 
> New build try OC right away and have problems.
> 
> ...



But he didnt say anything about OC. And it was running fine and then just stoped. He just listed the 2133 as the rated RAM. He didnt OC it to that.


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## Peacekeeper (Apr 12, 2012)

jsfitz54 said:


> Should not but to discuss which one:
> 
> O          O     O
> 
> ...




The bottom middle screw, I figured it would be the strongest place without one.



TheMailMan78 said:


> Is it the same PSU you used on the fried mobo?



No, completely different system. 

All photos except the full top down one were taken with the power on:

Full Top Down

SATA connections

MemOK/RAM/Power

4pin Power Connection

CPU

Closeup of CPU LED that flashes


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## Norton (Apr 12, 2012)

jsfitz54 said:


> I think Norton's idea is good.
> 
> New build try OC right away and have problems.
> 
> ...



I've had an issue with DDR3 memory not working right with an AM3 cpu (720BE). It wouldn't run 2 sticks at DDR3/1333 but runs completely fine in a DDR2 board..... I was only able to boot with one stick and ended up using a different CPU on the build.

Everything at stock w/one stick of memory, reset Bios again would be my suggestion for the moment to rule out system instability.


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## TheMailMan78 (Apr 12, 2012)

It says its the CPU LED.



Norton said:


> I've had an issue with DDR3 memory not working right with an AM3 cpu (720BE). It wouldn't run 2 sticks at DDR3/1333 but runs completely fine in a DDR2 board..... I was only able to boot with one stick and ended up using a different CPU on the build.
> 
> Everything at stock w/one stick of memory, reset Bios again would be my suggestion for the moment to rule out system instability.



He already reset the bios and took out the battery.


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## jsfitz54 (Apr 12, 2012)

Picture of 4-pin?

It is an 8-pin design.

Is the 8-pin slot plugged in using 4+4 pin?

Trying to rule out lack of power to CPU.


Screw choice OK in my book.


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## Norton (Apr 12, 2012)

TheMailMan78 said:


> It says its the CPU LED.
> 
> 
> 
> He already reset the bios and took out the battery.



I know but if he turned the TPU from on to off it would be a good idea to reset again.

@Op- did you disconnect 1/2 of the 8pin CPU/board connector for the pic or are you just using a 4pin?

**EDIT- jsfitz54 beat me to it ***


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## Peacekeeper (Apr 12, 2012)

If there is a TPU switch I cannot find it.

I am just using 4pin - Reason being that the other 4pins do not connect into the slots.


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## jsfitz54 (Apr 12, 2012)

Page 2.3.6 Manual shows 4 pin setup.

Can't tell from orientation of retension notch but you could be using the wrong 4 side.

ALL 8 should go no issues.  Are you using the proper 8pin from the power supply?


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## TheMailMan78 (Apr 12, 2012)

jsfitz54 said:


> Page 2.3.6 Manual shows 4 pin setup.
> 
> Can't tell from orientation of retension notch but you could be using the wrong 4 side.
> 
> ALL 8 should go no issues.  Are you using the proper 8pin from the power supply?



4 pin is fine. It wouldnt have booted to begin with if not. Remeber this thing was working and just stopped.


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## Peacekeeper (Apr 12, 2012)

jsfitz54 said:


> Page 2.3.6 Manual shows 4 pin setup.
> 
> Can't tell from orientation of retension notch but you could be using the wrong 4.
> 
> ALL 8 should go no issues.



The problem is that the other four are completely the wrong shape to go into the slots


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## Norton (Apr 12, 2012)

Peacekeeper said:


> If there is a TPU switch I cannot find it.
> 
> I am just using 4pin - Reason being that the other 4pins do not connect into the slots.



You're right I checked your manual TPU switch is on the EVO model but not on the Pro version you have. TPU function on/off is in the Bios setup in your board

I see 3 hard drives plugged into the board. Is your boot drive plugged into one of the bottom SATA ports or the one on the side of the board?


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## jsfitz54 (Apr 12, 2012)

It could be time to try reseating the CPU.

AND take a close look at the pins for burn marks.

Anyone else agree?


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## jsfitz54 (Apr 12, 2012)

Peacekeeper said:


> The problem is that the other four are completely the wrong shape to go into the slots



Is that the only 8pin configuration on that PSU?

EDIT: never mind looked up psu on newegg.


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## Peacekeeper (Apr 12, 2012)

Norton said:


> You're right I checked your manual TPU switch is on the EVO model but not on the Pro version you have. TPU function on/off is in the Bios setup in your board
> 
> I see 3 hard drives plugged into the board. Is your boot drive plugged into one of the bottom SATA ports or the one on the side of the board?



The boot drive is the one with the orange SATA cable on the photo, it's connection into one of the side ports.



> Is that the only 8pin configuration on that PSU?



Unfortunately yes. 

I'm not looking forward to removal of the CPU if it comes to that as I WILL break something it is a guarantee.


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## TheMailMan78 (Apr 12, 2012)

Did you try this?



TheMailMan78 said:


> Try taking one stick of ram out. If that doesn't work switch slots. Then try the other stick.



Also disconnect all drives but the OS drive. Including the optical and any USB.


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## jsfitz54 (Apr 12, 2012)

Did you try and boot without the hard drive connected.

In other words disconnect all sata cables. and clear cmos again with no drives.

Single ram stick in slot A2.


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## JrRacinFan (Apr 12, 2012)

Sounds like PSU to me.


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## jsfitz54 (Apr 12, 2012)

JrRacinFan said:


> Sounds like PSU to me.



Would be the first thing to swap out and try without total dissasembly.

If not that, then I would lean towards mobo due to fact of cpu led flashing.

But if psu went out, did it take any other parts with it?  Such as cpu.

I don't understand why his 4+4pin does not fit...modern board and psu?


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## JrRacinFan (Apr 12, 2012)

jsfitz54 said:


> If not that, then I would lean towards mobo due to fact of cpu led flashing.



CPU led flashing could just be the power circuitry kickin out due to a duff PSU.


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## Peacekeeper (Apr 12, 2012)

I have tried disconnecting everything from the motherboard except the cpu and psu, I have also tried starting it without the CPU connected and cleared the CMOS. All this I've tried with just one stick of RAM at a time and I have tested both sticks. Each time it does the same thing - CPU fan spins once the red LED flashs once then nothing.


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## jsfitz54 (Apr 12, 2012)

Your going to need to borrow a PSU to test your rig.

You don't need a 750w one to get the board to boot; a good 450-500w one should work, so if you have a friend or family member that will let you try theirs...

Remember your not connecting any drives and your working with a stripped down setup, so thats why 750w is not needed.


If you get a clean boot, put the new bios 1102 on a flash drive and update the board through the UEFI settings.  Eazy to do and may save you additional problems when you get back to normal operations.

You must have the mobo at "default" settings prior to bios flash.

Leave the boot drive disconnected until board is stable then reinstall HD and Optical and restart upgrade to the 64bit version.


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## TheMailMan78 (Apr 12, 2012)

Yeah sounds like a bum PSU right now.


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## Peacekeeper (Apr 12, 2012)

I have an old PSU from the computer I dismantled yesterday [I was going to use the case but realised halfway through that it was a bespoke shape and my motherboard wouldn't fit so I had to use a different one]. I just checked and it's only 375W though and it has a 6pin plug rather than a 4/4+4 pin one. I also have a 500W one here but it's well over a decade old is that usable in your opinion?


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## TheMailMan78 (Apr 12, 2012)

Peacekeeper said:


> I have an old PSU from the computer I dismantled yesterday [I was going to use the case but realised halfway through that it was a bespoke shape and my motherboard wouldn't fit so I had to use a different one]. I just checked and it's only 375W though and it has a 6pin plug rather than a 4/4+4 pin one. I also have a 500W one here but it's well over a decade old is that usable in your opinion?



Try the 500w if the plugs work.


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## JrRacinFan (Apr 12, 2012)

Just mentioning it, I myself was getting a warm boot issue at one point on my M5A97 when I had it, to where I could power on/shutdown in windows ok, but restarts it would hang and give a no post until i pulled power for 2-3mins. Watch for that because it was indication of an unstable combination of IMC NB frequency/DDR3 timings.

So if you find yourself not being able to post but powering on, do a clear cmos to remove any overclock you have done on the chip and re-clock but leave dram speed alone.


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## TheMailMan78 (Apr 12, 2012)

JrRacinFan said:


> Just mentioning it, I myself was getting a warm boot issue at one point on my M5A97 when I had it, to where I could power on/shutdown in windows ok, but restarts it would hang and give a no post until i pulled power for 2-3mins. Watch for that because it was indication of an unstable combination of IMC NB frequency/DDR3 timings.
> 
> So if you find yourself not being able to post but powering on, do a clear cmos to remove any overclock you have done on the chip and re-clock but leave dram speed alone.



Hes already running stock.


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## JrRacinFan (Apr 12, 2012)

TheMailMan78 said:


> Hes already running stock.



I understand that, was throwing it out there for future reference.


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## Peacekeeper (Apr 12, 2012)

Just tested the computer with everything unplugged again but this time using an alternate PSU and I received the same feedback from the computer and unresponsive start up. 

Though, the power plug from the old PSU I'm testing with is missing some additional point on it as shown below, I'm not sure how relevant that is though:

Plug


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## JrRacinFan (Apr 12, 2012)

Just double checking, did you remember to connect the 4/8 pin CPU Aux power? The +4 on the main ATX shouldn't matter much.


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## Peacekeeper (Apr 12, 2012)

JrRacinFan said:


> Just double checking, did you remember to connect the 4/8 pin CPU Aux power? The +4 on the main ATX shouldn't matter much.



Yeh, I made sure to plug in the 4pin one too.


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## JrRacinFan (Apr 12, 2012)

OK, now try the 500W PSU if you can.


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## Dacur (Apr 12, 2012)

well according to CM site http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6643 the 8 pin cpu should fit perfectly. (checked with a mobo screeny). Or wrong cable was supplied with psu. 

Seems like a improper cpu install to me. Or bent pins on cpu. Cpu socketlock broken


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## jsfitz54 (Apr 12, 2012)

Do either of the test psu's have a 24pin Main supply?

If yes, use that.



Dacur said:


> Seems like a improper cpu install to me. Or bent pins on cpu. Cpu socketlock broken



The computer was running yesterday fine.  The OP installed 32bit OS by mistake and while loading 64bit version machine crashed and won't restart.

Not saying cpu is not problem but cpu will be last to look at.


If an old rig is intact, Try the new PSU in that rig.

Do you know how to use a multimeter? Do you have one?


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## TheMailMan78 (Apr 12, 2012)

jsfitz54 said:


> If an old rig is intact, Try the new PSU in that rig.


 I would try the paper clip test first.


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## Peacekeeper (Apr 12, 2012)

I've tried all different combinations on several PSUs now and all with a same result. I'm pretty sure it's not the PSU. Most likely it's the CPU, even so I'm not entirely sure how to deal with that as it was working find until I tried to reinstall the new OS earlier.



Dacur said:


> well according to CM site http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6643 the 8 pin cpu should fit perfectly. (checked with a mobo screeny). Or wrong cable was supplied with psu.



The cable is built into the box, I doubt it's a manufacturing error unless it's on a larger scale than just mine, though just in case I took some more photos =D

Motherboard socket


Note that this one would be flipped horizontally upside-down:

4+4pins


EDIT: Unfortunately the old rig isn't intact as I had to steal all the screws from it for the motherboard as well as the SATA cables.

The 375W PSU has a 24pin power supply plug.


My dad has a multimeter and would know how to use it if I told him what for.


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## jsfitz54 (Apr 12, 2012)

TheMailMan78 said:


> I would try the paper clip test first.



Where is a link for the OP to show how to test PSU, paperclip method.  I know there have been several here on TPU. Trying to locate.

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=63991


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## TheMailMan78 (Apr 12, 2012)

jsfitz54 said:


> Where is a link for the OP to show how to test PSU, paperclip method.  I know there have been several here on TPU. Trying to locate.
> 
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=63991



Heres a video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khpnx21oydg


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## Peacekeeper (Apr 12, 2012)

Thank you for both the instructional links and the video. I'm going to get some dinner and then test it and make sure to get back to you guys with the results =]


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## Peacekeeper (Apr 12, 2012)

Apologese for double post. Tested my PSU and it works - tried the paper clip idea as well as the multimeter.

Is there any definitive way, other that buying replacements for everything, to determine whethert the motherboard, RAM or CPU may be the culprit?


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## TheMailMan78 (Apr 12, 2012)

Peacekeeper said:


> Apologese for double post. Tested my PSU and it works - tried the paper clip idea as well as the multimeter.
> 
> Is there any definitive way, other that buying replacements for everything, to determine whethert the motherboard, RAM or CPU may be the culprit?



I'm gonna go on a limb and say its your mobo. You cant test any of it without another compatible computer. Do you have another computer you can test the RAM in?


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## jsfitz54 (Apr 12, 2012)

Take motherboard out of case and set on non-conductive surface (heavy cardboard or wood) and try to boot it.

That's going to take the case and accidental grounding out of the equation.

Once it's out then you can move on to inspecting cpu, motherboard.  Unfortunately your going to have to strip it down.


Sorry you are having such a hard first time.  Just go slowly and don't rush things.  Walk away if you are frustrated and come back later.


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