# Bought LG IPS225V - need advices :)



## f0ku5 (Nov 15, 2011)

Hello Techpowerup!
You helped me a lot in the past and I need advice again 

Today I bought new LCD monitor - LG IPS225V.
I had FullHD "simple" LCD from the 1st generation - d-sub and such.

I know that this is new model and comes with fabric calibration. When I turned him on all I saw was perfect color compared to my old LCD. Zero lag in games, nothing.
But I don't know if I should go to menu and mess with any of settings there? I don't know much about IPS panels except that they need to be calibrated. But that's already done?
Should I left it as it is when it's okay or there's setting that can make my image look even better?


----------



## Jstn7477 (Nov 15, 2011)

IPS panels only need to be calibrated if you are a professional artist or for some reason it doesn't look good out of the box. If you like the way it looks, just sit back and enjoy the awesomeness IPS panels.


----------



## f0ku5 (Nov 15, 2011)

that LG monitor was calibrated by LG in the fabric and it all looks awesome "out of box".
That means that I can leave it without entering menu and messing with settings?


----------



## white phantom (Nov 15, 2011)

Jstn7477 said:


> IPS panels only need to be calibrated if you are a professional artist or for some reason it doesn't look good out of the box. If you like the way it looks, just sit back and enjoy the awesomeness IPS panels.



+1 to this

everyones eyes and preferences are different so to be honest if it looks smashing to you then leave it as it is  or why not if you want to mess with settings take a note of current settings and then if you find something which looks better for you use it if not revert back to what it was?


----------



## f0ku5 (Nov 16, 2011)

the problem is that buttons of this monitor aren't even captioned so I dont know which button does what


----------



## AsRock (Nov 16, 2011)

aah just mess with them but 1st try fining a reset to so you can get it back how you like it now.  Maybe try reading the manual


----------



## n-ster (Nov 16, 2011)

ohhh how do you like that monitor? I want to purchase one soon


----------



## John Doe (Nov 16, 2011)

To my knowledge, it should be E-IPS, which stands for budget, leftover IPS panels. Not a full baked one. If it's IQ is sufficient for you, and if you're happy with it, great. But if it came with washed out colors and dark view angles like a TN, then I'd return it for a real one. It's a what you pay is what you get situation with these. They still are superior to TN, but at the end of the day, I wouldn't hope $400 quality out of a $200 panel. You know, it is what it is.


----------



## n-ster (Nov 16, 2011)

John Doe said:


> To my knowledge, it should be E-IPS, which stands for budget, leftover IPS panels. Not a full baked one. If it's IQ is sufficient for you, and if you're happy with it, great. But if it came with washed out colors and dark view angles like a TN, then I'd return it for a real one. It's a what you pay is what you get situation with these. They still are superior to TN, but at the end of the day, I wouldn't hope $400 quality out of a $200 panel. You know, it is what it is.



the E-IPS are around the same price as TN but much better lol. It is obviously less good than IPS in IQ, but better than TN, and at that price-point, you can't ask for more! Having the viewing angles at that price-point was unheard of until E-IPS


----------



## John Doe (Nov 16, 2011)

n-ster said:


> the E-IPS are around the same price as TN but much better lol. It is obviously less good than IPS in IQ, but better than TN, and at that price-point, you can't ask for more! Having the viewing angles at that price-point was unheard of until E-IPS



Yeah but, thing is, there actually is no such term as "E-IPS". It just stands for crappy IPS panels in marketing terms (as in Economical IPS maybe...). Bit of a crapshoot. I mean, if you really want an IPS, get a real IPS. If not, then yeah, surely I also would have gone for it instead of TN. Though, with S-IPS going for $350, it comes more logical to me to get the real thing for $150 more than to waste $200. Just looked up, it costs $300 converted. I'd have paid more for a true IPS than to take the chance and feel sorry later on. You can buy a TN of bigger size (not as good but yeah).


----------



## n-ster (Nov 16, 2011)

John Doe said:


> Yeah but, thing is, there actually is no such term as "E-IPS". It just stands for crappy IPS panels in marketing terms (as in Economical IPS maybe...). Bit of a crapshoot. I mean, if you really want an IPS, get a real IPS. If not, then yeah, surely I also would have gone for it instead of TN. Though, with S-IPS going for $350, it comes more logical to me to get the real thing for $150 more than to waste $200. Just looked up, it costs $300 converted. I'd have paid more for a true IPS than to take the chance and feel sorry later on. You can buy a TN of bigger size (not as good but yeah).



Yes there is... E-IPS are just IPS panels that have less features (ie: no 8 bit, less IQ) and much cheaper to make. E-IPS are often preferred by gamers as the response time is quicker than that of the better IPS panels

It is the perfect transition between TN and IPS. Think of bridge SLRs in cameras


----------



## John Doe (Nov 16, 2011)

n-ster said:


> Yes there is... E-IPS are just IPS panels that have less features (ie: no 8 bit, less IQ) and much cheaper to make. E-IPS are often preferred by gamers as the response time is usually higher than that of the better IPS panels
> 
> It is the perfect transition between TN and IPS. Think of bridge SLRs in cameras



Response time means little to nothing at this time and date. With anything below 8 ms, there's zero difference to notice. Even 12 ms has been alright back in 2005. It's only after 16 ms ghosting appears, and barely any modern IPS for regular usage have that high latency anymore.

What I'm saying is, you'll either get a good panel or a crap one with TN like colors, viewing angles etc. And in this case (checked the price) it didn't seem worth it to me. To crapshoot on a 21 incher for $300... isn't the best idea. At all.


----------



## n-ster (Nov 16, 2011)

John Doe said:


> Response time means little to nothing at this time and date. With anything below 8 ms, there's zero difference to notice. Even 12 ms has been alright back in 2005. It's only after 16 ms ghosting appears, and barely any modern IPS for regular usage have that high latency anymore.
> 
> What I'm saying is, you'll either get a good panel or a crap one with TN like colors, viewing angles etc. And in this case (checked the price) it didn't seem worth it to me. To crapshoot on a 21 incher for $300... isn't the best idea. At all.



In the US, it's usually 200$ for the 23" and sometimes as low as 150 for the 21". Not a crapshoot at those prices... To me it is a better buy then TN at the same price


----------



## f0ku5 (Nov 17, 2011)

okay guys, I will bump my topic because I have question 

this monitor have HDMI, DVI and D-Sub. I connected him via DVI cable I got from the LG, but I can have HDMI cable without paying anything.
Is this even worth this? I mean switching DVI to HDMI (without paying)?


----------



## n-ster (Nov 17, 2011)

DVI and HDMI are pretty much the same... I like HDMI's smaller connector and more versatile use I guess, so go ahead and go HDMI if you want but unless your monitor has speakers and you use them (HDMI can transport sound), it doesn't change anything


----------



## f0ku5 (Nov 17, 2011)

I will use HDMI then 
But I want to be sure that using HDMI will not be worse than using DVI?


----------



## cheesy999 (Nov 17, 2011)

f0ku5 said:


> I will use HDMI then
> But I want to be sure that using HDMI will not be worse than using DVI?



HDMI and DVI single link have the same video connection


----------



## f0ku5 (Nov 17, 2011)

hmm okay...
so I will ask one more question, this time about DVI. My Asus GTX 580 have two connectors and I believe that they are probably named something like 1 and 2  (I had these numbers on my graphic card when I was using MSI 560Ti).

So here's back of my current GPU - http://www.ektek.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/asus-580-gtx-4.jpg
Which one of these DVI connectors is the "primary one" aka "1"?


----------



## n-ster (Nov 17, 2011)

Doesn't matter


----------



## cheesy999 (Nov 17, 2011)

f0ku5 said:


> hmm okay...
> so I will ask one more question, this time about DVI. My Asus GTX 580 have two connectors and I believe that they are probably named something like 1 and 2  (I had these numbers on my graphic card when I was using MSI 560Ti).
> 
> So here's back of my current GPU - http://www.ektek.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/asus-580-gtx-4.jpg
> Which one of these DVI connectors is the "primary one" aka "1"?





n-ster said:


> Doesn't matter



Yeah all the number do on the display outputs is determine the default screen in a multi monitor set up


----------



## f0ku5 (Nov 17, 2011)

I know that it doesnt matter, but I want to know which one is primary and which one is secondary


----------



## cheesy999 (Nov 17, 2011)

f0ku5 said:


> I know that it doesnt matter, but I want to know which one is primary and which one is secondary



You could say 1 is primary because it is the screen the bios will appear on on a multimonitor set-up, but apart from that they are identical in terms of priority, sometimes the driver can even get mixed up and set 2 as the primary monitor automatically, in all honesty i would plug it in '1' simply because it is the first number


----------



## f0ku5 (Nov 17, 2011)

same as me, that's why I'm asking which one is "1"


----------



## cheesy999 (Nov 17, 2011)

f0ku5 said:


> same as me, that's why I'm asking which one is "1"



there doesn't appear to be 1, i thought i remember the sockets on Nvidia cards being labeled as you described, but after inspection it appears on all of mine they are all simply labeled 'DVI', so i imagine that there isn't a 'primary' display as such, and the card just auto-selects the one's it detects a display attached to

In which case just plug it in whatever one is better for wiring purposes, i'm 99% they are electrically identical to each other


----------



## Flak (Nov 17, 2011)

I like when people throw around crap information.  Especially this day and age with the internet being what it is.

The two main developers of IPS panels are Hitachi and LG.  They both use slightly different nomenclature for the IPS panel variations.  In LG's case, E-IPS stands for Enhanced IPS. It has wider aperture for light transmission, enabling the use of lower-power, cheaper backlights. Improves diagonal viewing angle and further reduce response time to 5ms.

LG developed E-IPS panels in 2009.  In 2010 they introduced P-IPS, Professional IPS which offer 30bit color.  And in 2011 they are releasing (I haven't seen any) the AH-IPS, Advanced High Performance IPS, which improves color accuracy, increases resolution, and increased light transmission for even lower power usage.


So in short, these LG E-IPS panels are a great bargain.  I've since replaced all my monitors with IPS based monitors, with my gaming rigs using these LG monitors.  As I do notice ghosting with anything over 8ms.


----------



## John Doe (Nov 17, 2011)

Flak said:


> I like when people throw around crap information.  Especially this day and age with the internet being what it is.
> 
> The two main developers of IPS panels are Hitachi and LG.  They both use slightly different nomenclature for the IPS panel variations.  In LG's case, E-IPS stands for Enhanced IPS. It has wider aperture for light transmission, enabling the use of lower-power, cheaper backlights. Improves diagonal viewing angle and further reduce response time to 5ms.
> 
> ...



lol... load of crap there buddy. E-IPS means cheap IPS panels with bad QC. Have a read to inform yourself, really. 

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1607389&highlight=e-ips

you're falling for their marketing and aren't thinking of anything else. As for IPS panels, IPS Alpha made a lot of H-IPS (IPS Pro) panels that're still available. Some older S-IPS are available as well, so you're wrong there too.


----------



## MilkyWay (Nov 17, 2011)

E-IPS are still better quality than standard TN panels, especially in this case you get what you pay for.

This monitor is much better than the IPS226V.

Ive been considering the Iiyama Prolite X2377HDS 23" IPS because its got a good price and its not for professional use so the LED back lighting advantages outweigh the disadvantages.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TFT_LCD#In-Plane_Switching_.28IPS.29
All the info in the link above.


----------



## John Doe (Nov 18, 2011)

MilkyWay said:


> *E-IPS are still better quality than standard TN panels*, especially in this case you get what you pay for.
> 
> This monitor is much better than the IPS226V.
> 
> ...



I don't need to. Who said otherwise? Yes, it's better than TN. But not up there with MVA/PVA, let alone IPS.


----------



## daglesj (Jan 23, 2012)

Though I might chip in here. I bought this very monitor before xmas to replace my older work monitor. 

Was keen to check out the new E-IPS panels and therefore at £120 this was a good place to start. 

Have to say very very impressed. A leap of improvement over my old TN panel work monitor and far more easy on the eye then my Samsung PVA panel that I use on my gaming rig.

Nice and bright, great viewing angles and good strong (but not OTT) colours.

Hooked it up to my USB Spyder calibrator to see how well it was setup (especially as it comes with a calibration report). After calibration on the User setting the difference was minimal so yes it is pretty much good to go out of the box. All I had to do was turn down the brightness to around the 75 mark My preference).

It looks pretty fantastic for the price. Hopefully it will mark a downward trend for panels that command a higher price.

Have tried a bit of gaming with it and it works a treat, no ghosting or image issues.

As for the buttons not being marked well they don't have to be. If you press any of them then it tells you on screen what they all do. Amazed so many folks have missed this.

So all in all a bargain if you want something a step up from the old TN panel job but for the same price.


----------



## Ra97oR (Jan 23, 2012)

I have also bought this monitor, the replacement should return tomorrow morning. I had an issue with strong back light bleed from the monitor's left frame, but no dead pixels or colour issues. Great monitor save for the fault. It have a totally crappy stand though, very weak to vibrations, like heavy typing on a weak desktop will apply some shake on it.


----------



## mmayhem (Jan 27, 2012)

daglesj said:


> Hooked it up to my USB Spyder calibrator to see how well it was setup (especially as it comes with a calibration report). After calibration on the User setting the difference was minimal so yes it is pretty much good to go out of the box. All I had to do was turn down the brightness to around the 75 mark My preference).



I assume that because you have a Spyder Calibrator that you might be a photographer ???

Anyway I do happen to be a photographer and have purchased a printer, a CISS to go with it and am getting custom profiles made for my printer/ink/paper combination. I only have a laptop which does not allow the contrast to be adjusted making it useless for calibration. I therefor need a separate monitor and am looking at the IPS225V . . . 

. . . ok, so you said that calibration with your Spyder made very little difference to the LG straight out of the box. I'm also looking at buying a calibrator but because you say the monitor is pretty much good to go, do you think I could possibly skip that step ??? Or at least just get the monitor first and see how that works for me instead of ordering a calibrator at the same time ??? I'll probably be getting the cheapest calibrator anyway, a Pantone Huey Pro for £60.


----------



## Ra97oR (Jan 28, 2012)

Just one thing to add to this, the monitor came with a CD having an extra ICC profile. That however changed to colour to extremely warm for some reason, I advice you not to touch it.


----------



## monitorgeek (Feb 2, 2012)

I heard that all LG monitors (http://www.lg.com/uk/it-products/monitors/monitors.jsp) come out with calibrated condition as @f0ku5 commented. but if you need to calibrate your monitor, check http://www.pcworld.com/article/241957/how_to_calibrate_your_monitor.html


----------



## daglesj (Feb 2, 2012)

Ra97oR said:


> Just one thing to add to this, the monitor came with a CD having an extra ICC profile. That however changed to colour to extremely warm for some reason, I advice you not to touch it.




I installed the profile on my PC and it made no difference.


----------



## daglesj (Feb 2, 2012)

mmayhem said:


> I assume that because you have a Spyder Calibrator that you might be a photographer ???



Not at all. I wanted to try a calibrator as my other half is a web designer and she wanted to make sure the colours she was dealing with were at least vaguely correct on her monitor before the customers moan it doesn't look right on theirs.

Yeah once calibrated on the USER setting the difference between Factory and calibrated wasnt a great deal. So I left it as is. The only thing that needed doing was the brightness toning down. I have it set to 75 but the Spyder3 said 79 was accurate but I felt for me it was still a tad bright. As I don't do photography its not an issue.


----------

