# Goa´uld Al´Kesh [scratch build]



## CapTen (Oct 9, 2017)

The


*Goa´uld Al´Kesh*


is a space ship of the bomber class from the TV series Stargate SG1.
What is there to say?
​

Designation: Al'kesh
Builder:Goa'uld
Class:Bomber
First appearance:SG1_04x22SG1 4x22 Exodus
Sheath material:Naquadah
Hyperdrive:interstellar
Arming:Goa'uld-Gun,Goa'uld-Bombs
Defense:Goa'uld-shield
Sensors:Goa'uld-Sensors
Other systems:escape pod,ring Transporter,Camouflage shield (optional)​

As a big Stargate fan I always wanted to have one of the spaceships.
Unfortunately it is very rare in the series and since the game there, every Alkesh looks different.
So just the right thing to let my creativity run wild.
Sometimes I do not even like the original right so I build the Al`kesh as I see it.
The Al'kesh was supposed to be a functional ITX system, and the rest would be inspired by Stargate

In this sense: *Shal'kek nem'ron* ('I die free!')

*Hardware*
CPU: -
Mainboard: MSI Z270I Gaming Pro Carbon AC
VGA: MSI GTX 1070 AERO ITX
Ram: Ballistix Sport LT White 16GB Kit (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666
PSU: - SFX

*Cooling*
?​
in advance two pictures of the hardware which is installed.
Since I am still not sure how or how much I get into the case
I've sent the AERO ITX carefully to Alphacool to let me make a suitable water cooler for it.
Unfortunately there is not yet one on the market for the MSI VGA.











I would like to thank you very much to

*MSI

Ballistix*

since they support me so energetically in this project​


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## FreedomEclipse (Oct 9, 2017)




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## ST.o.CH (Oct 12, 2017)

Looking forward to more posts.

Meanwhile, subbed.


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## bug (Oct 12, 2017)

Meh, a bomber with no fighter escort is little more than a sitting duck.


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## FreedomEclipse (Oct 12, 2017)

bug said:


> Meh, a bomber with no fighter escort is little more than a sitting duck.



Not if the bomber has shields.


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## bug (Oct 12, 2017)

FreedomEclipse said:


> Not if the bomber has shields.


Even a shielded sitting duck will yield eventually.


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## FreedomEclipse (Oct 12, 2017)

bug said:


> Even a shielded sitting duck will yield eventually.


 
then warp out


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## PopcornMachine (Oct 12, 2017)

Stargate fan here. Looking forward to where this goes.  Thanks.


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## CapTen (Mar 21, 2018)

Hi ,
Sorry for beeing to late.
I can´t edit the start post. Fu..

The updated spec list:

*Hardware*
CPU: Intel Core I7 6600K
Mainboard: MSI Z270I Gaming Pro Carbon AC
VGA: MSI GTX 1070 AERO ITX
Ram: Ballistix Sport LT White 16GB Kit (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666
PSU: Enermax Revolution SFX 550W
Fan: 2 x Enermax T.B.RGB

*Cooling*
Bitspower custom water cooling​
I would like to thank you very much to

*MSI

Ballistix

Bitspower

Enermax*

since they support me so energetically in this project​
More updates comming soon then I explain what was going on.


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## AsRock (Mar 21, 2018)

Just ask a mod to allow you to edit, i am sure they would more than happy too.


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## CapTen (Mar 24, 2018)

Now it's going on again.

As previously mentioned I've sended the VGA to Alphacool, which arrived  there at the beginning of 10/2017. As a hint, I should calculate with 20 days  for the mapping. (ca. 11/2017) and 8-12 weeks manufactoring, so max 01/2048 -  03.2018.

The VGA was sended back short before Christmas, on demand, they couldn't  give me an Answer about the further term, so I have to school myself in  patience.

In my assessment I've asked them again in January, but I'm not able to find  the email for it. My last request was at the 27.02.2018 but since Christmas I'm  not getting any replies.

But because MSI and Crucial/Ballistix are trust in me, which I've already  strained in my Opinion, I needed to orienteering me otherwise.

And see there I was able to find a fitting VGA Cooler at Bitspower and  could convince them to support my Project.

That opens me of course an other possibility to even adapt the Watercooling  on the typical Goa`uld Al`kesh Colors.
But see for yourself






The acerbity of course was, no sooner as Bitspower sended out the Packet to  me, it was honestly the same day 14.03.2018 (Big Brother is watching you and  so), if got a reply from Alphacool. Sorry etc.

Very well then I've now two Cooler Super. :klatsch:

Well now, let's start.

As first step, I've builded on my own a Styroporcutter, more flexible as a  table and hand device. I don't need to say a lot about it I think. All right,  working with the water level, cause with bevel cuts I can't work.  






Here the auxiliary solution to stretch the Wire






And here the fixture to make it able to use the hole thing also as Hand  device/ lance.






Now I've got two Styroporplates in 100x50x16cm. At first I wanted to glue  them together to get enough height for building but meanwhile one plate is  enough. So first a fitting egg was cutted.






And the the Lance unplugged and worked securely with free hands. How it is  at all works, a bit less cutting then to much.






Now it's go further with 40er and 60er sandpaper, that works really well.  With this result I haven't thought, apart from that mess.






So step by step I fumble my way to the Form that delight me.
















As far as good, now I started to sister the different layers from the  Al`Kesh. For that you use preferably thick construction paper for it.  






Everything somehow compromises but only these makes imaginative. How a  painter just is, he's thinking that filler will do its best, but the more the  better is the working now, as less level out is needed later.
















False sequence sorry but here is the Material that I organized for it. I  will comment in the next working steps.






To get a stand clear gap and to hamper the contact between the polyester  resin and the Styropor (it would decay in a short time) I've insert a 3mm thick  PE Tube in the side.











Now only the Back. I've thought everything would went easier/faster but  that is making a DIY’er out.






I didn't know how the Polyester Resin would react with the duct tape, so  ever duct tapes and gaps would glued more with paper and  instantglue






and so its begin, the hole paper covered in a deep layer of Polyester Resin  and then carefully dap little strips weaves on it. not spreading just dapping  that the Strips won’t move.

In the same way the spreading would tear down the weaves.

The Weaves draws full of the resin from alone.

During the work the resin will begin gelation and you can dap the next  mixture on it or the remaining Material until the Weaves are completly  embedded.






Because the work with the Paper became silly i’ve tried on trail to paint  the sides with wall color to get a seperation between the Polyesterresin and the  Styropor. That was really marginal, as the Weaves was on it, i saw the Styropor  began to wind up. Phew saved by the bell.











To reach the most highest stability I've choose two Polyester putty knifes.  One rude fibre-reinforced and a fine Polyester putty knife.

Here the rude one. He is remove the biggest surface irregularities.  











Groundhog Day. For Days always the same work steps by a processing time of  2-5 min, nerves after a time but as Painter it's buisness as usual.  

Blending - processing - cleaning tools - smoking break 






Time for the next Layer: the Cap


























The Cap was painted with Polyester Resin so it can reach the right form.  The process of gelation is going on fairly quick,os you can take an eye on the  dry process. It was fixed with assembly adhesive out of the cartridge. At the  Borders I watched out that it isn't gluing with the spaceship. I went regularly  along the sites with a boxcutter.

The resin which was to much I painted on the Spaceship, like you can see.  











Now I've coated both side of the Cap with GRP Weaves. I two working process  for sure. It gelate fast but is hardened first after 12h. It depends on how good  you mix it. To observe the presets is really important. I've mostly mixed with  Syringes of 50-100ml but how you think a lot helps a lot, that's not the fall  here. To much hardened can extend the dry time fastly to more then 24h. I've  looked a bit silly out of the clothes xD
Temperature is important like at varnish minimum 20°+.











Okay this is going to explode the picture limit.

A weekly update is verified herewith 

See you next time!!

​


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## CapTen (Mar 26, 2018)

Hi!
Thx guys.
after I covered everything with the fine polyester knife it went to the bottom.
Exactly the same procedure as above


























Now the Back had to be straightened, but I needed a guide rail.






Paper helps very well as a ruler replacement if you want to cut polystyrene,
So I cut the shape of the spacecraft from construction paper and taped it on styrodur, and cut it out.











Now I had a straight line to fix the paper strips and then brush with polyester resin.











the same on the bottom











Now I could cover everything with the polyester putty.

Now it was time to determine the perfect shape for the pyramid.
First try with paper.

Nooo that Looks not good 






second try :  is better.  :thumbsup:
Nice snappy in the front and a fat back to look inside.
The pyramid is later built from plexiglas :rock:











first template i built from wood






What do you think about the form?











Now I can cut everything up
marked






remove cover carefully






Hole drilled






and cut out, after that I began to fill the underside.






After cutting the spaceship, the whole thing looked like this.
 :lol:






Unfortunately I did not have a picture of the empty interior at this time.
But i have posted a Video onFacebook .
But as it looks exactly then you see in the next post ​


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## CapTen (Apr 2, 2018)

Hello and Happy Easter!
This time a monster update.

I have a lot tube remains but nothing fits for a engine






I found 4 feets for shop shelves






and yeah I think that suits.





















and lenses to illuminate each engine from the inside











Then the Ballistix Sport LT.
I remove the decals and cooler.
I closed the holes with aluminum kit
















paint in Gold






and glued them with thermal adhesive






i cut out 3mm Alu for the Riser Cable.
















and glued with GRP 











I noticed that I forgot a level on the bottom.































Unfortunately, it has slipped by 2 mm











finally the radiators arrived






cut out 






i like it






The point why i used 2 120mm rads and no 240






then i glued the rads with epoxy and the poylester resin






brood brood- Power Supply Ventilation - Transporter Rings, Dr Watson Combine! :rofl:











Hahaha YES!
For the holder 2 alu angle i used.






fixed with fiber-rainforced knife






and then with GRP











As a dust filter I've cut out a circle from an old mesh






bend arround the tube
















and glued with Acrifix R192.






now the hinge mechanism






 3mm Alu for the shipside.






everything was as large as possible placed in GRP as usual











now i marked the layer for the MB tray
and used two small alu angle






these where fixed with fibreglas-rainforced putty and painted with polyester resin  











Good you are now up to date.
Yesterday I started customizing the MB Tray but more about it next time.​


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## OneMoar (Apr 5, 2018)

WE ARE NOT GOA`ULD! 
srsly where has this been


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## CapTen (Apr 5, 2018)

We are not Goa’uld! We are Tok‘ra!


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## ST.o.CH (Apr 7, 2018)

Keep ongoing


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## CapTen (Apr 7, 2018)

Tek‘ma‘te Tauri! 
Yes sir


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## CapTen (Apr 9, 2018)

Tek´ma´tek Tauri!

Now it went to the MB tray.
To measure it, I just measured every two inches from the center
and put me on the tray points.











so I could accurately as possible to cut the aluminum.






now the riser card 






and cut the threads for it






then all holes and spacers were set






now it went to the cockpit
I just played something with Plexiglas to see where that leads.
















So I started sticking together piece by piece






yes its okay











Next, I have a mini-hinge, generously with the Acrifix, glued into the pulpit and cut on the ship's side a thread in the large hinge (M1.5)











Now I have the pages straightened and ready.
With the pulpit I now have a small hinge which hides the big hinge :stupid::rofl:






So now the flop at all.
Last week I built landing skids. But the fit absolutely not to the spaceship


So they come in the showcase.
I need another solution for that . :wall:






At some point I have to do it, I also want to finally install gas spring for the lid but without the pyramid, the lid is still too unstable.
Lets go







First attempt went wrong but so I can practice gluing something












Next, I will prepare the plates for gluing.
Thank you all.
Until next time​


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## CapTen (Apr 16, 2018)

Hello ,

All cut surfaces were sanded and deburred






then cleaned and masked with polyester adhesive tape and glued.






Of course, the first attempt went awry. When masking I kept the scalpel too oblique, so the gap was too big and I could only remove the excess adhesive by force.
I even had a fugue apart, well that was somehow clear.
So second try.






second attempt was actually okay except for a minimal blistering






So I tried it a third time.
But that was even worse, I use number 2






Now I've packed the pyramid clean again for all subsequent operations and cut out the shape of the spaceship






Then the spaceship so that the pyramid fits in perfectly






so that the adhesive and the filler form any unwanted reflections I have all cut edges painted gold.
Then inserted the pyramid and puttied all the gaps again.






finally progress 






In addition, I built an IO shield for the motherboard.
Which form suits the concept best?
Right, a goa´uld sarcophagus.
For this I cut some aluminum






and bend it in shape






For the outer curves fits 16er tubes






For the circles I took 5mm Plexiglas






I then glued the pipes liberally with the glass fiber spatula and then brushed it with polyester resin





















then small aluminum strips were cut and folded.
Now I've stuck everything with epoxy glue on IO-Shield and set a few decals.






and painted.






Hahahah :banana: like it
especially since the motherboard remains fully functional, back is open and all ports are fully accessible on the board

So let's see how far I am next time! ​


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## CapTen (Apr 24, 2018)

Hello,

The first thing I noticed in this photo was that something was wrong on the IO-Shield.
I did not notice the tinkering, although I had marked lines was the lettering good 5mm wrong.
I was maybe a little annoyed because the font for the plotter was too small.








okay fixed






Now it was up to the CPU cooler.
Unfortunately, this time nothing fit.
The socket screw was in the way, so I had to adjust that a bit.






To use the M2 SSD, I also had to shorten the backplate by a few Millimeters.






From the pyramid, I have now cut out the window.
It was rather modest, so I had to file and grind a lot afterwards.






for fear of breaking anything I had to examine the glass for scratches and damage.
But as far as I can see nothing is broken.






Now it went to the gas pressure damper.
For this I cut two brackets made of aluminum






then have the holes drilled and fixed the whole with the fiber-reinforced polyester putty.











Now everything was embedded again with GRP .











to test something I then decided for 2x40N gas spring.
That means that the lid and the Al'kesh weigh 8kg each time.
Since the whole upper part was still a bit unstable for me, I spent most of the last week with it
to reinforce the entire interior and then smooth spatula. That was a shit I tell you because everything is round.






The gas pressure damper I painted gold, the tube itself is then gold chrome foils, matching the tubes and Fittings.






Soooo what can not be missing in an Alkesh?
A Goaúld bomb for self-destruction :stupid:






The best way to do that is by deep-drawing so first of all a mold had to be made.
When digging in my wood waste box, I found these two sections quite well.






So I put these on a threaded rod and, like a glassblower, carefully guided it to the stand grinder.






then the same on the lower part






Then I put both together. With a little sanding dust and wood glue you can easily stir a putty together.











The bomb can still wait, for the thermoforming box is currently no place.

On to the interior, the flair of a spaceship should reflect itself again inside.
First, the view must disappear to the PSU.
With a little cardboard I could create a template to put two walls of Plexiglas.
Just as big as the PSU fits through and I can plug in the cables behind it.
They then only dress up the visible area so that I can lay cables under the walls







short test, is still working






in front of the PSU comes a hinged door which I bent a short hand from Plexiglas.






This then closes flush with the Alkesh.






Since I am very reluctant to start the circular saw during the week, I have cut the pillars for the interior at the weekend.
First cut 8mm Plexiglas in 1cm strips.






then fastened with tape and put a 3mm deep cut every 15mm.











yes i like it, to be continued






In the mainboard tray I have now the last holes for pipes, res, USB3.0 and HDMI cable set.






And today I started to cut the first pillars.






Okay, thank you until next time.​


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## CapTen (May 2, 2018)

Sooo let's go on.
There will be a lot to report after this weekend 

Where do I start?
I pretty much worked on all areas in parallel, but sorted the images by topic to keep things more manageable.
The drives were finally fastened.






Since the fiber putty is hard after 5min I held each drive individually in position and lubricated from the inside the putty with finger on it.
I actually wanted to be able to remove it and glue it at the end, but it was not necessary. After the second fiber putty operation, they held up very well






Then I came up with a brilliant idea.
For the drive I have cut 4 rounds of 1cm Plexiglas






the edges thereafter roughly chamfered by the router and not ground on purpose but only slightly polished.
The effect fits very well when all lights up






after that I prepared the original light guide plate and the new one for gluing






and glued to the Acrifix R192. Of course this worked right away (almost where it does not matter :wall: )






The result, unprocessed, perfect. No bubbles no cracks. I do not expect anything more. :heul:






Now the impression that I imagined :banana:






Then I started yesterday to put the holes for the LEDs and glue these.
3mm blue concave






Part 2. The bomb
Now I could finally dig out the thermoforming box and deep pull the bomb.
If someone wants more details just let me know. 











after I cut out the bomb with scissors and sanded it reasonably straight.
Have I set a clean cut to the desired height with the Proxxon tool.






Coooooool






then I cut a ring on which I can then stick a LED stripe










Now I painted both from the inside without a primer black, because as I said, the green does not fit into the concept.
I've got 4-5 photos of the bomb or Al'kesh control panel here and only one of them is green. The others are all black.
Also, each has different symbols.






Which brings me to the next point.
I could not find a direct font for Goa'uld writing.
There are either only the gate symbols or it is referred to one of the many ancient Egyptian scriptures.
None of them would be eligible for the bomb.
I had then first made a few decals with the ancient script which I was also allowed to manually trace but that did not look good.
So I traced the font from the photo of the last post and used it.
Luckily, I could see just 10 icons to assign them 10 LEDs.






Part 3. The holder second try

The basic idea was already in my head for a while, but I still lacked the final attachment to the Alkesh itself.
As usual, "hit it and get started" I've just built it and I do not think it's that bad.
1. Create an ellipse and half close it to the circle.
This then cut out of 8mm extruded Plexiglas






Then with the router all edges chamfered to 4mm.






Now I cut a 4cm Plexiglas rod at 20 degrees.






the whole is then glued to the base plate






Now the support surface for the Alkesh.
Also cut here 8mm extruded Plexiglas and bevelled all edges to 2mm.






After that I started to bend both sides by 25 degrees each 4cm from the center.
Great the photo forget crap!
4cm from the outside I bent then by 65 degrees.
Thus I have three points that I can push into the Alkesh and under the radiators still enough space for the ball valves and sufficient supply and exhaust air






Part 4. The pillars

Just the 8mm slit Plexiglas strip was not enough for me so I cut out of 3mm Plexiglas also 8mm strips and have these all provided with Slots.






so in style






Now I've cut all the pillars exactly to length






and then stuck the 3mm Plexiglas in the offset






Now I began to prime and fill all the pillars.






until I was satisfied with the surface.






Now I stuck all pillars with foil. Similar to the sarcophagus.






Then everything again primed






and painted several times in Gold.







Last but not least part 5. The Alkesh

At the Alkesh I had to put under the res one more recess so I can put the pump directly under him.











Then I positioned the IO-Shield from below behind the radiators











Although I actually wanted to do without it, I smoothed the interior once again






everything primed






and then closed the last little holes to waterproof the whole case






The motherboard tray I have already provided with a 1K Alugrundierung and a few layers of primer






So far, so good, nice to finally see a little bit of color :banana:​


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## CapTen (May 7, 2018)

So that was a short week but it went forward.
The base plate of the bracket has been polished.




The acrylic glass rod I have now glued to the base plate.








Now I put the holes for the holder in the Alkesh




I then filled the cavity (between the attached trapezoid of the rads and the actual Alkesh bottom) with glass fiber spatula




fits




Now I've polished all edges of the bracket








and here is an impression of the holder.
I still have to glue the overlay to the pipe. Still coming.




then I began to paint the Alkesh and prepare for it.
First only primer.




The waves on the top were filled two to three times with the polyester spatula








then back primer and a tin of spray filler.
Now everything looks different and feels much better








Now I sanded the whole wet with 400 and had to make only a few corrections.
The lid here is exactly the same.
Here you can see quite well the looped points of the first operation and how the areas in between all filled with polyester spatula.




The current status.
To no new waves or bumps purely to grind through too much grinding I went over only with paper 600 and have primed everything again.
I will definitely repeat the whole thing 2-4 times until I am satisfied.




Well, we'll see.
Short week and then there is plenty of time to keep working​


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## OneMoar (May 13, 2018)

kree jaffa 

__
		https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/8iwg2g


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## CapTen (May 13, 2018)

Kree shac, shel nok.


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## phill (May 13, 2018)

Amazing build


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## CapTen (May 13, 2018)

Thank you Phill


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## phill (May 13, 2018)

I don't know how you guys do it but wow I'm glad you do!!  Gives us normal guys something to look at and think wow at!!  How many hours did you put into this???  I'd guess it must have been in the hundreds??


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## CapTen (May 14, 2018)

Yes, that could be. 200-300 hours determined.


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## CapTen (May 15, 2018)

And on it goes, I completely forgot that the Modding Masters already on 2.-3.6.18 is.
I really wanted to be done so now we have a Deadline.

As I mentioned earlier, there was a lot to fill and to grind.












The IO panel should still be clad with ribs, after long thinks whether Plexi or Alu I have decided jokingly for a PVC design flooring.
The surface is like everything else slightly arched, so I was reluctant to bend ALU or Plexi for.






I then cut this 16 times in 5mm strips, sanded some edges and glued with mounting glue in 7mm distance on the IO panel






oh so and the Alkesh would then slowly ready for the paint job











After curing, I then sanded the supernatants, a little more leveled and primed






As I mentioned in some forums, blue LEDs are not bright enough for the drive so I rebuilt the lens without the holes for LEDs on the back.
Here is just a white high density LED stripe behind the lens. The effect is really cool because you go blind: rofl:
but a slight blue tint, I would have been happy.






I have here now two lenses back with light and dark blue painted but except that the light intensity decreases does not bring much synonymous.
The blue effect comes only from the reflection of the plexiglass on the side, but the light itself remains white.
No plan then I'll leave it White.











so I had a roll of 4mm trim in chrome, they fit perfectly to the front of the Alkesh's.
Normally, two more lines would cross in the middle, but at this point the Bitspower Dragon is supposed to. As this is very similar to the symbols of Jaffa Tattoos.
Attached with superglue, keeps bomb






When I wanted to paint the cockpit, I noticed that the part of times something crooked is so I was allowed to build me a new cockpit.






Since the moldings are rounded down, I still had everything neatly trowel here






and so that I can still open the lid properly, the ends were still bevelled.






Now I've taken a day off the weekend and made various patterns for the Alkesh.






then plotted out






and glued on the Alkesh











I then primed all of them and painted them in a dark gold.
Just like other surfaces.
If anyone knows the Tel'Tak, guess what I intend to do 














Well, I experimented with circles and ellipses for a while until I had the radii of the Alkesh.
These were then plotted out.






and then stuck to the Alkesh.
Yes, and that was not easy to get both sides top AND bottom identically. : Banana:
in parallel, the gold-painted decals were taped again so that only certain areas remain gold.
The lines are almost exactly the same, the foil is removed later so that only the lines are gold










partly also other decals were set which are only painted and then visually stand out from the surface.






So that the color does not run under the foil later on, I painted all the relevant spots a few more times in gold.










Well, just before then I primed everything again slightly. This should dry now that I can once again sand everything with 600 wet and can check off the final paint.






The Alkesh is now painted in silver and then the whole spaceship gets a Washing Effect (YouTube)
As I said before, a dark gray would be the right shade, but with gray I just do not have the metal effect, so it's now painted silver.
See you next time, now it's moving forward ​


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## CapTen (May 22, 2018)

Here I am again.
This time there were many low blows but it goes ahead.
Where had I stopped?
Achso, the Alkesh I have now completely painted outside silver.










and then remove all the tapes.
Although the film is good for masking because no color runs behind but the paint has decomposed the film that remained the adhesive on the spaceship.
In addition, you needed so much power to remove that I went to 30% everywhere the color with.
In the dark places you can see very well the glue residues here.
Okay, so only the removal of the residue has cost me smooth 3h and from the repair of the paint damage, we need not even talk.
All affected areas taped again or partly plotted first and repainted.






Now it was up to the interior and the MB Tray.
At first I painted all of this anthracite,






and then sprayed with two colors, silver and white, marble effect spray. I've put a few shades with gray and black shadow spray and provided everything with a gold glitter spray














the very end I still have sealed everything with semi-gloss varnish.










The cockpit I have set off laterally in gold






then finally the upper bracket glued to the acrylic tube.






The rings of the drive could now be glued to the scattering lenses.
Before that taped so that the diffusion lenses when washing effect not be dirty.










Now it went to the LEDs for the drive.
Without words, I have tried other LED positions but this is the best choice.






I then stuck the stripes in the drives with hot glue






and from the inside everything still wired clean.






on the door to the PSU I have drawn lines with a golden edding






before I stuck the pillars on it. Superglue is just perfect.






Cooooooool 






now something went on in the interior.
Fan PSU and a few Fittings mounted.






The HDMI connection by itself and the USB 3.0, I fixed with hot glue and then poured completely with epoxy glue.






I was able to solder the 230V extension of the SFX Revolution.






On sunday it finally got to the cable.
Probably the shortest extensions I was allowed to do.
First, the 24pin ATX cable to about 10cm.










then the PCIe cable to 20cm, because the original would be too short.






And the 8pin EPS cable I could 1: 1 sleeving.






Ahso and the pump cables are the same.






I do not even know where to start but I have so much spanking this weekend.
This is not even the half of the photos I had.
But without words.
Yeah the digital LEDs for the bomb I wanted to fix with velvet ring with hot glue from the inside but please let brain rain.
The hot glue has of course destroyed the whole shape :wall:






Well for the bomb, I've still cut a base plate, chamfered the edges and also immediately painted black.






The cockpit I have now provided with Goa'uld font, but without meaning, there would be no room for it.
I then opted only for optically matching hieroglyphics.










I have dissected a light cord, which I originally wanted to use but then discarded again, and found that lead the only one strand for the mass.
Just soldered some cables.
Because of the split tray, I need two cords, but have only bought one and did not want to install two extra separate.
This should then serve as edge interior lighting.






okay, I then soldered the second string to the controller and it works, yeah!
Via 5V






Okay for the 5V still a small distributor made in black






glued a 3pin connector to the PCB and soldered it to the battery poles.






Yes and I wanted to use these homemade combs for a long time xD.
Sorry that no sharp photo at is when you always double photographed everything on cell phone and camera does that happen.






I simply screwed the entire board to the tray from below with a plastic spacer.
Before, of course, the holes drilled in the tray.
I also find cool on what you do not come for ideas if you have a long time. :rofl:






Okay and then I stuck the string to the tray, fixed it with adhesive and then reinforced it with epoxy glue from the outside.
Sorry at such late times I'm always really unable to shoot sharp photos, too dark too much energy drinks and so on






Slowly I'm running out of ideas.
Oh yes, there was something else: crystal control panel, but first I want to finish the coating so that all tapes can go away.
The pyramid still has to be polished, the bomb is still to be programmed and otherwise only minor things

THX a lot
Capten​


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## phill (May 22, 2018)

Utterly jaw droppingly, amazing attention to detail..    Jaw successfully dropped and having trouble picking it up again.... Just wow...


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## OneMoar (May 25, 2018)

Lord Apophis will be pleased


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## lexluthermiester (May 26, 2018)

OneMoar said:


> Lord Apophis will be pleased


Apophis is dead. Long Live Lord Ba'al.


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## OneMoar (May 31, 2018)

lexluthermiester said:


> Apophis is dead. Long Live Lord Ba'al.


GODS CAN NOT DIE


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## CapTen (Jun 5, 2018)

Lets go, it was a bit stressful the last two weeks but it was worth it.
That's what he looks like now the "Washing Effect".






I have used black acrylic paint for this and also some of metallic effect colors on acrylic base (black, silver, anthracite, gold)
The colors are simply diluted down to water, applied, and then wiped off again with a fuselage-free rag.
Depending on your preference you wipe them in some places more on others less down.
This results in a very nice wear effect after 5-8 passes.
Unfortunately, I could not count because I was very often dissatisfied and the colors have completely wiped down.
As always there were some problems:
- Water colors or school colors do not work, they dissolve each time you work again
- as the first colors are permanently beaded off the rim varnish I sanded the Alkesh again completely with 1000 sandpaper.






Since the curves pardu did not want to get darker, I felt different here.
I wrapped the rag around my index finger, dipping the finger lightly into black undiluted paint and distributing it evenly.
But in very small steps so max 5-10 square centimeters.
Immediately after applying, I began to beat the color like a madman with a finger.
This resulted in this beautiful hammered effect. 






Okay, after I had finished, I stuck the interior completely off and painted the whole Alkesh Clear.






After the third Goa'uld bomb was finally finished I was able to deal with the programming of the Arduino











I like it. I also had a short video of it on  Facebook  uploaded






The control for the light string I had provided with the hot glue, then it was quiet.
Unfortunately, it was suddenly loud after installation. Try the whole thing again with candle wax.
The whole control I do not want to pour only the throttle.






Okay, when I touched the Al'Kesh one day later I realized that I had applied a lot of dirt with the "washing effect"
  So everything was ground again smooth and once again painted clear.






On the bottom plate, I put a Chrome logo as a Tauri sign and the sponsors to match in matt gold.






For all the RGB LEDs, I have tinkered with a small distributor to control all over the Motherboard.
















so for the cockpit I put a yellow LED in a small reflector






took me a small bulb and made me with the thermoforming of it an imprint.






I then cut it into shape and stuck it on the reflector






then painted in gold






To recognize something bad, but finally, after the foil was removed from the pyramid, I polished the cut edges of the window






The reflector I stuck now in the cockpit, previously drilled a hole for the cable of course






So now Tialc also has a steering wheel to fly XD






The Arduino was now soldered to a board, in addition to the LEDs of the bomb, I still put the connection for the yellow cockpit LED and the drives.











Finally, I glued a 3mm Plexiglas plate with hot glue from below so that there is no short circuit here.
















Well the cables are all sitting, time for hardware installation.






There's not much to say about cutting tubes.
For the ball valves under the Alkesh I cut two 4cm tubes to 45 degrees.






and then edited them with the Bunsen burner.






The effect is super cool. We would then have the mouths of the ship's cannons.
Again, no photo ... fuck.
I feared that the ball valves with Q-distributor would be too big for the Al'Kesh but quite the opposite.
They fit perfectly.






Okay, at least something I photographed.
The finished loop 






Soo we went to Modding Masters in Friedrichshafen.
I had not registered the Alkesh because the ROG Carbine was not there yet.
This won but smooth the first place for scratch build and additionally the audience Award.
YEAAAAAAAAH !






I still had a Casemod at which there is not even a worklog and also this one won the second prize. Really unexpected because I just cobbled this just for fun together.
But since there has been something in the case for over a year, there was plenty of work in it.






Okay, I really do not want to torment you, but it should still be a little exciting.
The holder for the Alkesh made of 8mm Plexiglas was a bit shaky for me.
It has held but also the orientation does not tell me so completely so I started yesterday just after the car unload a new bracket from 1cm thick Plexiglas to build.
First cut the bottom plate again with the jigsaw






and then chamfered edges and polished the same everything.






Then I cut the star, the chamfering, bending and polishing will come tomorrow.






Okay that was it again, a few little things are still to be done, until Gamescom I have so much time again ​


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## phill (Jun 5, 2018)

Utterly amazing....  Congrats on such an amazing project!!


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## CapTen (Jun 18, 2018)

Sooo the wait is over.
Here is the last update.

Next it went to the new 1cm bracket.
After all edges were beveled I bent them now differently to change the angle of Al`kesh something.
So it feels a bit more coherent and you can look much better into it.












The whole pyramid was now covered with frosted glass foil,
really took a while until I had created a design which optimally fits the transparency and now
the pyramid is not quite as invisible as on the Modding Masters.
More photos will be available at the end of the article.






Now I took some time to design a few decals for the bottom plate.
This time it's the original Goa'uld font combined with the sponsor logos.






After these were transferred to the base plate, she got anti-skid and finished.






Now the first outdoor finalpics.
With the lighting you have to wait a bit, after removing the hot glue of the light string control it will not work anymore.
I have already ordered new but unfortunately, the earliest comes until the end of this month.
The system is running anyway, OS is not on it yet.
After one or two hours of bios, the temps were at 36 degrees, which I find okay for two 120mm Slim.
But see for yourself, what do you think?



































































































Okay, so if I look at this myself I think it's pretty PORN: banana:
Yeah I finally have an AL`KESH: D
For the drives, I had extra with a 9Volt battery taken but the performance was unfortunately not sufficient despite cloudy day.
Well, no matter what you see at the next indoor photo shoot.
Hope this happens this month but now I have to move on to the next project.
This time again a Casemod name "Anubis" :hmm::d​


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## OneMoar (Jun 18, 2018)

INDEED


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## CapTen (Jun 18, 2018)

INDEED ?? Indeed what?


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## Arjai (Jun 18, 2018)

Awesome build!! It is 'indeed' porn (is what I believe he is indeed-ing)!


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## lexluthermiester (Jun 19, 2018)

There is nothing not complete badass about this build! Well nice and well done!


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## droopyRO (Jun 19, 2018)

The weathering looks nice, have you painted model kits before ?


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## MDDB (Jun 20, 2018)

Looks really fantastic, i've been following since you started it, and oh my! congratulations!


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## AltCapwn (Jun 20, 2018)

Kind of disappointed that it doesn't fly but, still, I'm very impressed by the quality of your build mate. 10/10 would bang


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## CapTen (Jul 2, 2018)

Hi THX to all!
@droopyRO no that was my first time.I looked at a few how to´s (washing effect) on Youtube and then tried it.


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## CapTen (Jul 23, 2018)

Hi, sorry for my delay, I had a sick cat at home the last few weeks and had to go to the vet almost daily.
At the moment my cat seems to be better but the cause still could not be found.
So I still fear daily for his life 

So as promised here a short video of the Alkesh and the last photos on the fly.

For all who go to Gamsecom, you can see the Goa'uld Bomber there at the ECOM booth, hall 10.1, booth B.20.


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## CapTen (Mar 3, 2019)

Hey guys,

The DCMM (germany´s casemodding championship) is now taking place in Leipzig on the Dreamhack.
And what can I say .... YEAHHH, I was able to defend my title and have actually again occupied the 1st place in the category CaseCons(scratch build) with the "Alkesh". :rock::grin:


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## infrared (Mar 3, 2019)

Congrats!! Wish I'd been there to check out all the awesome systems


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## CapTen (Mar 3, 2019)

Thank you maybe next time. 
The number of visitors is constantly increasing.
I think that Dramhack is getting more and more interesting, since the Cebit does not exist anymore.


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## ST.o.CH (Mar 7, 2019)

Congrats for the first place, well done.


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