# How to make TEC/Peltier



## brandonwh64 (Jun 12, 2010)

Ok ive been thinking ALOT about this and watching some youtube videos has inspired me to make one. Since i am water cooling my I7 and don't want to have it sandwiched between the CPU and water block so i have been looking for a better way to do this. The best way i have seen is make an Inline block that the water will run through before it hits the CPU. From the types of peltiers i have seen, they range from 10W all the way up to the 2k's

I was thinking of making one out of a chipset block that is 40mm x 40mm x 15.5mm and a Peltier that is 40mm x 40mm x 3.5mm. Then on the other side i would add a heat sink with a fan. there was a you tube video of something like this and on the cold side it was getting down to 4 deg F and he froze water on it. the other side just had a small heatsink with a fan

Peltier Video

Should i use a 80W or 125W for the PSU i have.












<----- check specs


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## Athlon2K15 (Jun 12, 2010)

be sure to setup some sort of relay


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## overclocking101 (Jun 12, 2010)

dont use your computers psu get a meanwell dedicated switching psu with a relay kit, its the ONLY way to go with peletiers. It will give you better efficiency and better power distibution, meaning better temps.


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## cdawall (Jun 12, 2010)

not to mention running TEC's you can't just splice into a single molex...hmm good explanation



			
				littleowl@XS said:
			
		

> If you put a tec on a PC PSU your risking a fire because the wires are not able to handle the current the tec will draw. The wires on the tec are the same size when looking at them but they are tighter strands and many many more strands for each wire.
> PCP & C even states that there single +12v rail with 60A capable should not run a tec without cutting 6 12v lines and splicing them to the tec as well as 6 ground lines.



now you need to read this before you really think about tecs

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=38367

this too

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=28294


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 12, 2010)

Thanks guys for all the info! well i want to experiment with these things so i just ordered a TEC1-12708 120Watt Thermoelectric Cooler Peltier TEC from ebay for 7$ shipped!

http://cgi.ebay.com/TEC1-12708-120Watt-Thermoelectric-Cooler-Peltier-TEC-US-/350299182526?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item518f7555be

Once this arrives i have a couple of old heatsinks that this will fit on since its 40x40x3.5. Also was reading on the xtremesystems thread that anything under 80W is decent enough for cooling and the theoredical wattage is measure by Umax (V): 15.2 * Imax (A): 8 and this gives you the max wattage the peltier should operate. so my first order of business is im going to try to air cool the hot side and see if i have a cooler that is good enough to do that. if i can then my next item to get is some sort of block to mount onto the peltier to add to the loop.

*edit*
Full specs of peltier

Model number: TEC1-12708

Voltage: 12V

Couples: 127

Umax (V): 15.2

Imax (A): 8

ΔTmax(℃): 67

(W):80.3 W

Resistance ( Ω): 1.5 ~ 1.6

Dimensions: 40x 40x 3.5(mm )


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## Binge (Jun 12, 2010)

What will you cool with this pelt?


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 12, 2010)

Binge said:


> What will you cool with this pelt?



Looking to make an inline tec that will go like this 

pump>RAD>PELTIER>CPU>RES

I have seen this concept starting to get bigger with certain company's making inline TECs instead of like a TEC BLOCK.


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## Binge (Jun 12, 2010)

So you're going to chill the water?


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 12, 2010)

Binge said:


> So you're going to chill the water?



yes sir, or try. this is just an experimental thing but hopfuly it will yield some good results with the right hardware


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## Binge (Jun 12, 2010)

brandonwh64 said:


> yes sir, or try. this is just an experimental thing but hopfuly it will yield some good results with the right hardware



You need a separate loop or large air cooler on the hot side of that 120W pelt, or it's going to cause some damage.


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 12, 2010)

Binge said:


> You need a separate loop or large air cooler on the hot side of that 120W pelt, or it's going to cause some damage.



Yes i got some air coolers here im going to test one at a time to see if they will work correctly. from all the links i have looked at, you can AIR cool up to about 120W peltiers but anything above that is going to need its own loop. i seen a video of a guy with a HSF from a CPU and it was cooling the hot side while the cold side was 4.5deg F and would freeze water in less that 30 seconds


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## Binge (Jun 12, 2010)

brandonwh64 said:


> Yes i got some air coolers here im going to test one at a time to see if they will work correctly. from all the links i have looked at, you can AIR cool up to about 120W peltiers but anything above that is going to need its own loop. i seen a video of a guy with a HSF from a CPU and it was cooling the hot side while the cold side was 4.5deg F and would freeze water in less that 30 seconds



120W will be present on the hot side while it's active, all the time and this probably won't give you much headroom with just 120W of water chilling.  I do however hope you enjoy playing with these fun devices


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 12, 2010)

Binge said:


> 120W will be present on the hot side while it's active, all the time, and this probably won't give you much headroom with just 120W of water chilling.



Well see they labeled this peltier 120W cause its 120W Peak and 80-85W RMS (W * .707) so hopfuly with my heatsinks i have it should do the job, if not i will order a lower wattage peltier. I didnt pay but 7$ shipped for this one


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## Solaris17 (Jun 12, 2010)

Binge said:


> 120W will be present on the hot side while it's active, all the time, and this probably won't give you much headroom with just 120W of water chilling.



i agree. the logical way to go about TEC cooling imo. would be to to put it inbetween the CPU and block. so the block cools the hot side and the cold side cools the CPU. Meanwhile id hook up some sort of VR to control the amount of power given to the TEC so you dont hit sub amb. unless of course you made sure your insulated.


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## Binge (Jun 12, 2010)

Well his concept is to have the radiator cool down the CPU heat first and then cool the outlet water with the pelt.  My only issue with this is that it really won't change the water temperature by much.  He basically has to have another block that the water has to go through... like another CPU block.  This way it's like reverse heat transfer.  Any heat present in the water will get absorbed by the copper, and then sucked out by the pelt.  If you just have a pelt in-line then you're going to get close to 0 results.  Pelts aren't a great way to cool moving water.  There needs to be a static barrier of cold that is good at transferring heat, and be prepared to use anti-freeze in your loop.  You'll need it to stop any blockage/ice forming.


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 12, 2010)

Solaris17 said:


> i agree. the logical way to go about TEC cooling imo. would be to to put it inbetween the CPU and block. so the block cools the hot side and the cold side cools the CPU. Meanwhile id hook up some sort of VR to control the amount of power given to the TEC so you dont hit sub amb. unless of course you made sure your insulated.



SO you what your saying is that you would just put it in between the block and CPU and the insulate around it so it didnt get wet?

See that was my whole point about making an inline cooler so i could use it without having to insulate?


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## Binge (Jun 12, 2010)

brandonwh64 said:


> SO you what your saying is that you would just put it in between the block and CPU and the insulate around it so it didnt get wet?
> 
> See that was my whole point about making an inline cooler so i could use it without having to insulate?



depending on how powerful this is, you'll be making condensation because it WILL get sub ambient.  Ever see your tubes sweat?


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 12, 2010)

Binge said:


> depending on how powerful this is, you'll be making condensation because it WILL get sub ambient.  Ever see your tubes sweat?



nope not yet. what would be a good insulator for the motherboard and video card?


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## Binge (Jun 12, 2010)

brandonwh64 said:


> nope not yet. what would be a good insulator for the motherboard and video card?



most people use kneeded eraser around the components.  There's also a method of dipping the components, but you will void EVERY warranty.  Dielectric grease is an option to keep sockets from dealing with water damage.


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 12, 2010)

Binge said:


> most people use kneeded eraser around the components.  There's also a method of dipping the components, but you will void EVERY warranty.  Dielectric grease is an option to keep sockets from dealing with water damage.



well i am weighing all the options as i can on this. it sounds like a nice concept! its not costing that much either.


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## cdawall (Jun 12, 2010)

As long as the tec and block are insulated I don't really see such a low watt tec causing sweating etc. Now that being said I would give this a go with no mobo installed in the case and just watch the liquid cool this would be an impossible scenario with little to no heat loss to thhe actual cpu block. Watch how quickly the water temps drop and you can figure out the actual amount of work your tec is doing. I'm planning something similar but on a largeer scale so far the test is to use 3 amd heatpipe coolers and 3 maze4s in conjunction with 3 120w tecs all run off a variable pyramid 36a 12v psu (thank you systemviper)


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## trickson (Jun 12, 2010)

overclocking101 said:


> dont use your computers psu get a meanwell dedicated switching psu with a relay kit, its the ONLY way to go with peletiers. It will give you better efficiency and better power distribution, meaning better temps.



Yeah and one more thing watch the wires mine heated up to the max and started to burn the molex connector ! I rand mine from the PSU in my sig till that happened . I would advise not going the peltier route as it is costly and takes so much power to run . If you do get the meanwell PSU and put some heavy gauge wire on the thing and watch it all the time . good luck .


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 12, 2010)

cdawall said:


> As long as the tec and block are insulated I don't really see such a low watt tec causing sweating etc. Now that being said I would give this a go with no mobo installed in the case and just watch the liquid cool this would be an impossible scenario with little to no heat loss to thhe actual cpu block. Watch how quickly the water temps drop and you can figure out the actual amount of work your tec is doing. I'm planning something similar but on a largeer scale so far the test is to use 3 amd heatpipe coolers and 3 maze4s in conjunction with 3 120w tecs all run off a variable pyramid 36a 12v psu (thank you systemviper)



So CDA, you say one AMD heatpipe heatsink would cool one of the 120W peak peltiers?


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## panchoman (Jun 12, 2010)

yes, you can cool the pelt with a high performance cooler, like a xigmatek or thermalright etc..  they are built to cool 125w tdp processors and do preety well. though they will get burning hot.


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 12, 2010)

well i have several coolers i can try out to see how this is going to work. also if i have to add antifreeze to my loop then i will.


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## cdawall (Jun 12, 2010)

trickson said:


> Yeah and one more thing watch the wires mine heated up to the max and started to burn the molex connector ! I rand mine from the PSU in my sig till that happened . I would advise not going the peltier route as it is costly and takes so much power to run . If you do get the meanwell PSU and put some heavy gauge wire on the thing and watch it all the time . good luck .



I think I address this towards the top of the thread and just for reference I run 3 16gau lines into the pos and neg sides of my hardwired 70w tec in my coolermaster v10 they don't even get warm however with just fans on ie no cpu power frost forms on the heatpipes of the v10 



brandonwh64 said:


> So CDA, you say one AMD heatpipe heatsink would cool one of the 120W peak peltiers?



That's what I'm thinking I mean they are designed to cool a 140w max chip and these tecs will only put out so much heat so I figure with a temp probe on the hot and cold side of each tec I should be able to monitor these enough to prevent damage. I will let you know how this all pans out my whole rig should be setup by Friday at the latest.


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## Solaris17 (Jun 12, 2010)

brandonwh64 said:


> well i am weighing all the options as i can on this. it sounds like a nice concept! its not costing that much either.



it really isnt that expensive. just time consuming. kneedable eraser is easily found in thrift stores or art type stores. dielectric grease you can buy at autozone, vip, walmart etc in little pouches. also look for "bulb grease" near the headlight etc section. all it is is dielectric grease. its like .50c


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 12, 2010)

Solaris17 said:


> it really isnt that expensive. just time consuming. kneedable eraser is easily found in thrift stores or art type stores. dielectric grease you can buy at autozone, vip, walmart etc in little pouches. also look for "bulb grease" near the headlight etc section. all it is is dielectric grease. its like .50c



I cant wait for my Peltier to get here! i will be doing alot of experiments and i will have a bunch more pictures soon!


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 12, 2010)

Also! what if i mount this bad boy to the hot side with a push/pull setup!


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## trickson (Jun 12, 2010)

Yeah it is fun , I was seeing temps under ambient then nothing above 60c over clocked . Thing is you really can't get much out of the tech blocks . This is partly why they are not widely used . Coolermaster and and others that use them are low powered and can not do all that much better than a regular water cooling loop and they are power hungry . My system would use 400W at idle then spike to 600W when gaming . Thing is they are an oddity that will never fully take off . But they are fun to play with . Just take your time do it right the first time or els .


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## Solaris17 (Jun 12, 2010)

Exactly. You need to put thought into extreme cooling. their really isnt a "oops well that didnt work right i'll try a diffirent way" When you mess up it gets expensive. quickly. depending on how many systems you destroy in the process.


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 12, 2010)

Solaris17 said:


> Exactly. You need to put thought into extreme cooling. their really isnt a "oops well that didnt work right i'll try a diffirent way" When you mess up it gets expensive. quickly. depending on how many systems you destroy in the process.



LOL i hear yea!

LOL this is what i need!


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## trickson (Jun 12, 2010)

Solaris17 said:


> Exactly. You need to put thought into extreme cooling. their really isnt a "oops well that didnt work right i'll try a diffirent way" When you mess up it gets expensive. quickly. depending on how many systems you destroy in the process.



Yeah it is bad when you mess up . I found that my peltier was not enough to keep up with the heat and I fear that the one he is about to use is not going to cut the mustard ( If you will ) . here is my peltier .
 U Max:  	15.2 VDC
I Max: 	24 A
DT Max: 	> 67°C
Q Max: 	226.1 W
R: 	0.48 Ω
Dimensions: 	50 x 50 x 3.1 mm
(L x W x H)
Requires: 	1000+ Watt PSU or 320+ Watt Auxiliary PSU 

With a small 120W tech is going to max out really fast and you are not going to see the results you want plain and simple . with a 226.1W peltier I did not get what I wanted in terms of steady cooling . but have fun with it . I took mine out and just have the water cooling setup doing the job and it is far better than the tech block , constant steady cooling with less power use over all I have to say going the peltier way is nothing more than a waste of time ( fun yes ) time consuming and costly ( YES ) .


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## Binge (Jun 12, 2010)

trickson said:


> Yeah it is bad when you mess up . I found that my peltier was not enough to keep up with the heat and I fear that the one he is about to use is not going to cut the mustard ( If you will ) . here is my peltier .
> U Max:  	15.2 VDC
> I Max: 	24 A
> DT Max: 	> 67°C
> ...



He's chilling, no direct contact with a hot component.  So his radiator will still be doing the majority of the work, but a pelt will be in the loop after the radiator, but still separate from the CPU.  120W of heat will not exist in water that may be at most 5-10C higher than room temp.


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 12, 2010)

Binge said:


> He's chilling, no direct contact with a hot component.  So his radiator will still be doing the majority of the work, but a pelt will be in the loop after the radiator, but still separate from the CPU.  120W of heat will not exist in water that may be at most 5-10C higher than room temp.



This is true. This will be connected to some type of water block on the cold side and the hot side will have the evercooler transformer 4 with push/pull combo cooling it. now im in the search of some type of water block that is flat and has barbs out the side. I will try to get a pic up soon.

Something like this but thinner.


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 12, 2010)

double posted by mistake


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## trickson (Jun 12, 2010)

Binge said:


> He's chilling, no direct contact with a hot component.  So his radiator will still be doing the majority of the work, but a pelt will be in the loop after the radiator, but still separate from the CPU.  120W of heat will not exist in water that may be at most 5-10C higher than room temp.



Ok so he is going to chill water with the pelt . That one pelt will not do much to chill the water .
You will need some thing like this .
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/473/1/
Although I do not recommend coolit as there water lines are really small you need some thing like this to do the job right . I hope it all works for you please keep us informed and show us pic's of your work please . maybe you can do better than I did . ?


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## Sir_Real (Jun 12, 2010)

Just had a quick look at sum posts in this thread. I had a play around with pelts cupple years ago tryin to cool a P4 3.4ghz. 

I came up with the conclusion peltiers are a waist of time & money ! 

1st a peltier generates alot of heat, also there very inefficient approx only 7% efficient at cooling, there much more efficient if used to generate heat than remove it. A 125watt pelt will at best remove 8watts of heat & to do this will need a heatsink that can transfer 133watts of heat to the surrounding air.

If you was to slap a 125watt pelt directly on the cpu it wouldnt work no matter how big the sink or water loop is. A 125watt pelt can only pump around 8watts of heat so if you try & pass more than than that it wont keep up & it will become a bottle neck for heat transfer to the sink. Resulting in the cpu very quickly over heating. 

To be realisic about cooling i7 cpu i'd say your gunna need around 1000watts worth of pelts & the more the better. Ten 100watt pelts will pump heat alot more efficiently than one 1000watt pelt, due to the increased surface area. 

Yeah i'd say you'd need something not far off the size of this :


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## trickson (Jun 12, 2010)

Sir_Real said:


> Just had a quick look at sum posts in this thread. I had a play around with pelts cupple years ago tryin to cool a P4 3.4ghz.
> 
> I came up with the conclusion peltiers are a waist of time & money !
> 
> ...


I so agree with you . best not to even try to do this . It will fail as they all do .


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## cdawall (Jun 12, 2010)

Sir_Real said:


> Just had a quick look at sum posts in this thread. I had a play around with pelts cupple years ago tryin to cool a P4 3.4ghz.
> 
> I came up with the conclusion peltiers are a waist of time & money !
> 
> ...



even my poorly set up coolermaster V10 it is more than 7% efficient at the same clock there is a 5C temp difference load and 10C difference idle using the TEC vs not those numbers are backed by reviews as well...you most not have been doing something correctly to get 7% eff.


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## Sir_Real (Jun 13, 2010)

Have a read of this http://www.dansdata.com/peltprac.htm

The  vacuum diode heat pump is what will one day render the peltier obsolete.

http://www.coolchips.com/technology/ccalc.shtml


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## cdawall (Jun 13, 2010)

Sir_Real said:


> Have a read of this http://www.dansdata.com/peltprac.htm
> 
> The  vacuum diode heat pump is what will one day render the peltier obsolete.
> 
> http://www.coolchips.com/technology/ccalc.shtml



were to get started with that peltier view.....umm how about these pics by themselves











explain to me which quick grip provides 250-300PSI of pressure which is required for the proper operation of a peltier?

this is a quick grip if your curious






i would read this for a better look on pelts and its actually written around the same time as the one you posted

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=38367

edit haha i did find a 300lb quick grip

http://www.irwin.com/tools/clamps/sl300-one-handed-bar-clamps-spreaders

the sl300 looks a wee bit beefier than the one above though...you know the 150lb max ones


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## trickson (Jun 13, 2010)

Well no matter how you look at it the peltier is not worth all the bs and hassle really . just a fad that really went no were .


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 17, 2010)

Well i got my Peltier today! after messing with it for about 5 minutes i burnt the piss out of my finger! I then went and got my Evercooler transformer 4 and mounted it with alittle thermal paste on the hot side. With one fan it cooled it pretty good and the cold side froze over in less that 1 minute. im testing this peltier on an old Pentium II PCs PSU (225W) and its been working fine. now i need to find some kind of block to mount on the cold side then i will put my x clamp to hold it down. anybody know were i can get a nice block with barbs that come out the side?


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## trickson (Jun 17, 2010)

You should be looking for a cold plate for the thing as well .


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 17, 2010)

trickson said:


> You should be looking for a cold plate for the thing as well .



Cold plate?


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## trickson (Jun 17, 2010)

brandonwh64 said:


> Cold plate?



Yes this is what you need for the cold side of the peltier and the top of the CPU . 

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2410/exp-03/40x40mm_Copper_Cold_Plate.html?tl=g30c105s188


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 17, 2010)

trickson said:


> Yes this is what you need for the cold side of the peltier and the top of the CPU .
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2410/exp-03/40x40mm_Copper_Cold_Plate.html?tl=g30c105s188



Its not going on the CPU! its going to be inline of the water loop


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## trickson (Jun 17, 2010)

brandonwh64 said:


> Its not going on the CPU! its going to be inline of the water loop



Would be more effective on top of CPU you will see little temp decrease ( If any ) from one tech on the cooling line . I could be wrong . you should still use a cooling plate though .


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 17, 2010)

This is just an experiment and it could work or it couldn't but i will find out in the end


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## trickson (Jun 17, 2010)

brandonwh64 said:


> This is just an experiment and it could work or it couldn't but i will find out in the end



I hope it does . Could you please give some more pic's as to just how you are doing this . I have a 225w peltier and well if it works I want to try it .


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 17, 2010)

All i need right now is some sort of block to put on the cold side.


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## trickson (Jun 17, 2010)

brandonwh64 said:


> All i need right now is some sort of block to put on the cold side.



I just told you a cold plate it will be the only way .


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 17, 2010)

No you dont get what im saying. a water block like a VGA block. This one would work good


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## trickson (Jun 17, 2010)

brandonwh64 said:


> No you dont get what im saying. a water block like a VGA block. This one would work good
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/images/large/products/EC-WC-GPU_t_LRG.jpg



OH now I know what you are thinking , Yes you need a WB but a nigger one than normal would be better . Get a D-Tech V2 WB that should do the job well .


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 17, 2010)

trickson said:


> OH now I know what you are thinking , Yes you need a WB but a bigger one than normal would be better . Get a D-Tech V2 WB that should do the job well .



It has to have the barbs on the side instead of out the top. the backplate of my HS will be going on it to create pressure on it for better cooling


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 17, 2010)

Anyone here own a CNC machine?


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## Solaris17 (Jun 17, 2010)

Andreoid might be able to help you out.


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 17, 2010)

Solaris17 said:


> Andreoid might be able to help you out.



I would love a 40mm copper or aluminum block with two barbs on the outside!! i just used my Danger Den AM2 block and put some water in it and it froze in under 45 seconds


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## ZenZimZaliben (Jun 17, 2010)

While I admire your efforts this will do very little if anything to actual water temps unless you use a very high wattage peltier.

Peltier coolers work because they have Direct contact to the IHS of the cpu block. The waterblock is on top of the peltier removing all of that heat from the hot side.

You problem is the heat will not be isolated, it will be flowing through the water system, meaning it will not stay long enough in the peltier block to achieve any cooling, or at least not noticeable.

A better solution would be to add a peltier to your reservior so more water can be cooled at one time. Or like some arctic fish tanks use, a peltier setup in the pump.

Or if you have a super low flow water system it may work but you will still need a very high wattage peltier.


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 17, 2010)

ZenZimZaliben said:


> While I admire your efforts this will do very little if anything to actual water temps unless you use a very high wattage peltier.
> 
> Peltier coolers work because they have Direct contact to the IHS of the cpu block. The waterblock is on top of the peltier removing all of that heat from the hot side.
> 
> ...



Well if it works then its cool if not then i will put it on my old celeron and see how cold it gets!


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## ZenZimZaliben (Jun 17, 2010)

Nice! Freeze the hell out a that celeron.


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## brandonwh64 (Jun 18, 2010)

ZenZimZaliben said:


> Nice! Freeze the hell out a that celeron.



I was impressed with this peltier! it will freeze a waterblock full of water in less that 1 minute


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## trickson (Jun 18, 2010)

brandonwh64 said:


> I was impressed with this peltier! it will freeze a waterblock full of water in less that 1 minute



The problem is that you have no water flowing into and out of the WB and when you do you will see little to no cooling of the water , IMO .


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## cdawall (Jun 18, 2010)

just for the coldplate thing you only need a coldplate if whatever the TEC sits on does not fully cover the TEC.

also for the flow thing like what has been said a single TEC really wont do much for temps this is why in my rig i am looking at several inline TEC's higher surface area so more heat should be transferred by the TEC's


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## brandonwh64 (Jul 7, 2010)

Ok got my temperature probe and did some tests and i was surprised!

Degrees in CEL





Degrees in F





Condensation





Almost got everything i need to continue my experiment. I only need two 3/8s barbs to finish!


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## Champ (Jul 7, 2010)

I been reading along and I think I understand.  The giant heat-sink is taking the heat from the peltier.  The fan on the side is cool that...although I think another fan would be nice.  The peltier is freezing the block the water travels thru to cool it.  I understand where the other post is coming from.  The water would have to be moving fairly slow the cool off to chilling temps.  Or something thicker like anti-freeze would have to be used.  A much larger waterblock (something like a tub) would probably work best.  I can't believe I kinda understand this  I give the OP mad props for doing this.  Odds are, it's cooling better with it than without it.


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## Naekuh (Jul 9, 2010)

brandonwh64 said:


> The best way i have seen is make an Inline block that the water will run through before it hits the CPU. From the types of peltiers i have seen, they range from 10W all the way up to the 2k's



This is the best way to use it on water.
The thing is you want to Milk CoP on the TEC's as much as possible, to get efficiency. 
The best way to do that is the get a lot of tec's and run them downvolted.
If you want even greater efficiency you get a pwm controller and have them run on pwm. 

The thing about TEC's is they can handle rapid ons and off's unlike a compressor, and having them pulse like that would give you efficiency when your in idle situations. 

Anyhow this is how my project went. I am still waiting for a good PWM controller so i never got around to finishing it.


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## overclocking101 (Jul 9, 2010)

lol any time someone says TEC chiller naekuh pops in with those pics! its great, question do you still use that chiller?? do you have any other pics than those same ones??? im seriously interested and want to see how its held up over the years


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## Naekuh (Jul 9, 2010)

overclocking101 said:


> lol any time someone says TEC chiller naekuh pops in with those pics! its great, question do you still use that chiller?? do you have any other pics than those same ones??? im seriously interested and want to see how its held up over the years



its still sitting on a shelf until i get a pwm controller. 

but i did have it run.

It was doing nice numbers until i started seeing water slush in my tubing.  

That wasnt a very nice sight either...

I didnt think it would pull the temp down that fast and quickly to be honest.


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