# Has anyone done a total cap replacement on a board ?



## natr0n (Nov 21, 2017)

I've acquired some old motherboards noticed one has all blown caps looks like an (Asus nforce 6100 chipset). I thought would be fun project to replace with solid state caps.


So anyone ever try this or have pics ?


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## Ferrum Master (Nov 21, 2017)

I've done it a lot... well. 

Do not replace epectrolythics with solid state. The VRM is not designed to work with it. Without math and VRM datasheet it is not recommended to alter it.

Just use proper and new 105C


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## natr0n (Nov 21, 2017)

Ferrum Master said:


> I've done it a lot... well.
> 
> Do not replace epectrolythics with solid state. The VRM is not designed to work with it. Without math and VRM datasheet it is not recommended to alter it.
> 
> Just use proper and new 105C



Will do as mentioned,Thanks


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## delshay (Nov 23, 2017)

I have almost completed a 939 motherboard removing all electrolytic & going all polymer. CPU clocks much higher, but when it comes to Prime95, I have gained around 1-2 MHz over the old capacitors. Each capacitor is hand picked, ie it is tested first with two ESR meter.

Motherboard mostly fitted with Nichicon PLE series.


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## sneekypeet (Nov 23, 2017)

We had a member here that used to run post after post of exactly this. Cannot for the life of me recall the user name though. Off to search the forums as his threads may have some insight.

It was trodas, but it appears the images he hosted have since been removed


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## natr0n (Nov 23, 2017)

sneekypeet said:


> We had a member here that used to run post after post of exactly this. Cannot for the life of me recall the user name though. Off to search the forums as his threads may have some insight.
> 
> It was trodas, but it appears the images he hosted have since been removed




Ah yes, I remember those posts with old gear made like new.


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## delshay (Nov 23, 2017)

Be aware if you change capacitor type, you can run into trouble like I did. What I found out is, on old motherboard manufactures skipped or left out some capacitors. I filled this in including ceramic capacitors. I have processors here that refused to do 3Ghz, but now all of a sudden it can do 3.1GHz, almost hitting 3.2Ghz., but it's only good for benchmarking, not everyday computing. I must admit, I did change resistors around the controller, as I want a very efficient VRM..


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## Readlight (Nov 23, 2017)

My first oem motherboard died because off one, i fucked up that one place because i soldered first time.
You just need correct temperature whit good solderer should not be problem finding it in local DEPO and some caps from Ebay. After that you even will be possible to solder some led strips in your car...


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## DR4G00N (Nov 23, 2017)

I did a board recently, a non-working DFI LP UT nF3 250Gb (bulged/leaking caps, ect.), I replaced all the VCore and various other caps around the lower half of the board. VRM works great now but it still doesn't post, no error code beeps either.
Need another cpu to try as I only have one and I think it's dead from trying to run the board before recapping it. 

Would be nice to get it working, it's in like new condition with the original box and accessories still sealed in their bags.


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## delshay (Nov 23, 2017)

Proof. This processor would not do 3GHz with old capacitors, now hitting 3.2GHz with more Hardware Modification to come.  This motherboard was also call garbage on overclock.net.

I think but not sure this benchmark grabs top spot for "Air Cooled" for this CPU on HWBot website..


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## Mr.Scott (Nov 23, 2017)

delshay said:


> I think but not sure this benchmark grabs top spot for "Air Cooled" for this CPU on HWBot website..



Nah. 3.1-3.2 is about normal for a good chip on air.
That board is most definitely not an enthusiast board. 

Your name looks familiar to me. Where do I know you from?


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## delshay (Nov 23, 2017)

Mr.Scott said:


> Nah. 3.1-3.2 is about normal for a good chip on air.
> That board is most definitely not an enthusiast board.
> 
> Your name looks familiar to me. Where do I know you from?



I ask for help with BIOS for my motherboard, but AFAIK there is no processor out there that support 1 clock cycle. I have gathered vast amount of information & new way of cooling. That processor is using a IHS directly soldered to the heatsink under high pressure, it's now standard  here for over a year.

But there's more to come. Me being kick out of that thread was not a good idea by the other users.


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## Mr.Scott (Nov 23, 2017)

delshay said:


> I ask for help with BIOS for my motherboard, but AFAIK there is no processor out there that support 1 clock cycle.
> 
> But there's more to come. Me being kick out of that thread was not a good idea by the other users.



Ahhh......I remember now.
939 thread at OCN. SPD editing cheap ram.
That explains a lot.
unsubscribed


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## delshay (Nov 23, 2017)

Mr.Scott said:


> Ahhh......I remember now.



The next frequency up on HWBot is 3325, that can't be on air can it? if so I am top for air cooler.

see bottom right everyone else above me seems to be on LN2. 

Position 28 for me if I uploaded

http://hwbot.org/submission/524986_rackem_cpu_frequency_athlon_64_fx_57_(san_diego)_3587.36_mhz/


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## EarthDog (Nov 23, 2017)

Terrible board... terrible caps... not surprised it helped get it up a bit... 


Anyway, to the OP, I dont see the point of a recap, personally.  I can find better things to do with my time.


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## natr0n (Nov 24, 2017)

EarthDog said:


> Terrible board... terrible caps... not surprised it helped get it up a bit...
> 
> 
> Anyway, to the OP, I dont see the point of a recap, personally.  I can find better things to do with my time.



Like writing reviews for all that free gear you get. Indeed.


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## newtekie1 (Nov 24, 2017)

I used to recap those Dell boards that were notorious for bad caps all the time back in the day.  But now my carpal tunnel in my hands makes it hurt too much to do a lot of soldering, so I haven't done it in several years.


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## jaggerwild (Nov 24, 2017)

Ferrum Master said:


> I've done it a lot... well.
> 
> Do not replace epectrolythics with solid state. The VRM is not designed to work with it. Without math and VRM datasheet it is not recommended to alter it.
> 
> Just use proper and new 105C



 also keep in mind clearance issue's around the socket, so you may need to order same sized caps. I've done it on GPU'S then realized the cooler would not clear the new taller caps, what I get for being cheap not ordering new one's.
 Also note the side of the cap spot will have white on it, showing polarity make sure not to mess that up........


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## lexluthermiester (Nov 24, 2017)

EarthDog said:


> Terrible board... terrible caps... not surprised it helped get it up a bit..


That's only true if you're trying to OC to high heaven. If you're running stock and needed reliability, that board was a good choice. Not everyone is a mad-hatter overclocking fiend.


EarthDog said:


> Anyway, to the OP, I dont see the point of a recap, personally.  I can find better things to do with my time.


Things like this can save money(which for some people is the same as time), can be interesting and a lot of fun.


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## Ferrum Master (Nov 24, 2017)

jaggerwild said:


> also keep in mind clearance issue's around the socket, so you may need to order same sized caps. I've done it on GPU'S then realized the cooler would not clear the new taller caps, what I get for being cheap not ordering new one's.
> Also note the side of the cap spot will have white on it, showing polarity make sure not to mess that up........



Are you telling that to me lol


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## Frick (Nov 24, 2017)

Readlight said:


> and some caps from Ebay.



Be wary of the fake ones though.


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## Bones (Nov 24, 2017)

Recapping a board isn't bad, just takes time and patience. Redid a few AN7's awhile back that had been dead but got them all going again in the end. I too have to say use the same cap types that were in and you should be fine once done. 



delshay said:


> But there's more to come......



God help the admins.......



delshay said:


> The next frequency up on HWBot is 3325, that can't be on air can it? if so I am on top for air cooler.



Uhhh........ Riiiiight.
Unsubscribed too because this ain't gonna end well.


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## delshay (Nov 24, 2017)

lexluthermiester said:


> That's only true if you're trying to OC to high heaven. If you're running stock and needed reliability, that board was a good choice. Not everyone is a mad-hatter overclocking fiend.
> 
> Things like this can save money(which for some people is the same as time), can be interesting and a lot of fun.



What some users may not realize, some motherboards maybe under performing by poor choice of capacitors by the manufacture of the motherboard.
Look what the motherboard is doing now. it fairly high up the chart on HWBot sitting behind those users on LN2 & other type of cooling. It now feels different.

Am not into high end overclocking, I did that test to see if anything has changed & that modifications are going in the right direction.

I still have 9 capacitors to change over, but it will not change performance as these are around the PCI slot & audio chip. I also have 3 ceramics capacitors to add-in around the north & southbridge.


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## EarthDog (Nov 24, 2017)

lexluthermiester said:


> That's only true if you're trying to OC to high heaven. If you're running stock and needed reliability, that board was a good choice. Not everyone is a mad-hatter overclocking fiend.
> 
> Things like this can save money(which for some people is the same as time), can be interesting and a lot of fun.


ok...Thanks for sharing what we already know (first part). But considering what the OP is doing (or what hes brining up anyway)....well, surely you can figure out how relevant that point is to me. Also, if reliability was a concern, i wouldnt have gone with a budget board using weak vrm and no heatsinks on it. So...that doesnt make much sense to me, lex. It wasnt a great choice for that either. 


Anyway, cool for you guys... enjoy recapping!! 



delshay said:


> What some users may not realize, some motherboards maybe under performing by poor choice of capacitors by the manufacture of the motherboard.
> Look what the motherboard is doing now. it fairly high up the chart on HWBot sitting behind those users on LN2 & other type of cooling. It now feels different.
> 
> Am not into high end overclocking, I did that test to see if anything has changed & that modifications are going in the right direction.
> ...


see above. Few care to take the time to do something like this when we are able to spend $30 more for a better board. Literally that is less than an hour's pay for me. Time spent vs gains simple isnt worth it (to me) to sit there for several hours recapping a cheap arse already functional board.

You go with your bad self though.


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## Vario (Nov 24, 2017)

You might need a good iron, boards have lead free solder and it won't lift easily.


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## delshay (Nov 24, 2017)

EarthDog said:


> ok...Thanks for sharing what we already know (first part). But considering what the OP is doing (or what hes brining up anyway)....well, surely you can figure out how relevant that point is to me. Also, if reliability was a concern, i wouldnt have gone with a budget board using weak vrm and no heatsinks on it. So...that doesnt make much sense to me, lex. It wasnt a great choice for that either.
> 
> 
> Anyway, cool for you guys... enjoy recapping!!
> ...



Spend $30 more on a better board which may still need recapping. No thanks, I sooner spend it on capacitors. The whole point of the thread is to have fun recapping old motherboards & attempting to change over to an all solid state which I more or less successfully done.

That's the result the OP wants to read, can it be done.


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## lexluthermiester (Nov 24, 2017)

EarthDog said:


> Also, if reliability was a concern, i wouldnt have gone with a budget board using weak vrm and no heatsinks on it.


While I agree with you about heatsinks for the VRM's, there are lots of boards without them which run fine for a decade or more, generally. So again, your statement shows the elite oc fan perspective and doesn't always apply to most situations. 


delshay said:


> Spend $30 more on a better board which may still need recapping. No thanks, I sooner spend it on capacitors. The whole point of the thread is to have fun recapping old motherboards & attempting to change over to an all solid state which I more or less successfully done.
> 
> That's the result the OP wants to read, can it be done.


Exactly. The op wants to know what can be done. At the end of the day, as long as he uses solid-state caps with the same ratings as the electrolytic ones he's replacing, it should meet with great success.


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## delshay (Nov 24, 2017)

lexluthermiester said:


> While I agree with you about heatsinks for the VRM's, there are lots of boards without them which run fine for a decade or more, generally. So again, your statement shows the elite oc fan perspective and doesn't always apply to most situations.
> 
> Exactly. The op wants to know what can be done. At the end of the day, as long as he uses solid-state caps with the same ratings as the electrolytic ones he's replacing, it should meet with great success.



Can you explain same ratings?


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## jaggerwild (Nov 24, 2017)

Ferrum Master said:


> Are you telling that to me lol



 No, also means "to add to what you already said", or to your suggestion.


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## EarthDog (Nov 24, 2017)

lexluthermiester said:


> While I agree with you about heatsinks for the VRM's, there are lots of boards without them which run fine for a decade or more, generally. So again, your statement shows the elite oc fan perspective and doesn't always apply to most situations.
> 
> Exactly. The op wants to know what can be done. At the end of the day, as long as he uses solid-state caps with the same ratings as the electrolytic ones he's replacing, it should meet with great success.


LOL elite... cooler is better...that isn't refutable. Not all users have a 'pc elite' (lol again) cooling/airflow either. A budget, heatsinkless, board with a subpar VRM shouldn't scream reliable to anyone. Certainly it will work, but clearly a more robust VRM with a heatsink stands a better chance to be 'reliable. So, we will disagree I suppose. 



delshay said:


> Spend $30 more on a better board which may still need recapping. No thanks, I sooner spend it on capacitors. The whole point of the thread is to have fun recapping old motherboards & attempting to change over to an all solid state which I more or less successfully done.
> 
> That's the result the OP wants to read, can it be done.


Yep, of course it can be done. 

Like I said, to some people its worth the time and effort to order them, and take hours to solder them on. Id rather get a better board for the money and time spent doing it. 

If I was overclocking and pushing things, I wouldn't cheap out on the board and recap it. There are other parts of the equation like the quality of the VRM etc to consider.


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## delshay (Nov 24, 2017)

EarthDog said:


> LOL elite... cooler is better...that isn't refutable. Not all users have a 'pc elite' (lol again) cooling/airflow either. A budget, heatsinkless, board with a subpar VRM shouldn't scream reliable to anyone. Certainly it will work, but clearly a more robust VRM with a heatsink stands a better chance to be 'reliable. So, we will disagree I suppose.
> 
> Yep, of course it can be done.
> 
> ...



Asrock made that motherboard to overclock. It does work without any heatsink on the Mosfet. I have looked at the PDF documentation on the Mosfet, & their are very good Mosfet.

Asrock cheap out by fitting poor capacitors. Swapping this around has changed the performance. If the MOSFET was not able to cope, it's not a problem for me, I just changed them out. But currently it's more than enough, am not a big overclocker, this is why I don't do many benchmark.

The other user who posted in this thread is correct, not every Mosfet needs a heatsink. Mosfet can operate over 100c easy. 

Test in this thread was done with every single voltage settings set to minimum, apart from the CPU which was set to 1.55v.


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## lexluthermiester (Nov 24, 2017)

delshay said:


> Can you explain same ratings?


Voltage, farad and polarity. As long as they are matched up, electrolytic's can easily be replaced with solid-state.


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## AsRock (Nov 24, 2017)

Frick said:


> Be wary of the fake ones though.



More like don't buy of ebay period, better if in the US to go Mouser or Digike, and in the UK\Europe i keep seeing people prefer to go Farnall.


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## Mr.Scott (Nov 24, 2017)

delshay said:


> Test in this thread was done with every single voltage settings set to minimum, apart from the CPU which was set to 1.55v.



Which is a substantial increase from stock resulting in more load on the VRM section. It is also unnecessary unless you plan on overclocking, which you are obviously doing running a FX-57 at 3.2
In which case, you should be using a more substantial board instead of modding that junk board.

We've been down this road before. Not going there again. I'm truly out of this thread.


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## Vario (Nov 24, 2017)

@natr0n
I got a bunch of new in bag caps when I was going to recap my old 939, want them?  Send me a PM, would be price of shipping only.  They were going to be complete cap set for my Biostar N4SLI-A9

I think I have





3x 16v 1500uf 105*C Nippon NCC KZG / case size: 10x20 / impedence : 0.013 / ripple: 2,550
5x 6.3v 3300uf 105*C Nippon NCC KZG / case size: 10x25 / impedence.012 / ripple: 2,800
8x 6.3v 1000uf 105*C OST RLP / case size: 8x12 / impedence .013 ripple / 555

edit: or maybe the replacements for these, don't remember
ah here was the invoice from digi-key




Do any of these match the caps you need?


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## delshay (Nov 24, 2017)

Mr.Scott said:


> Which is a substantial increase from stock resulting in more load on the VRM section. It is also unnecessary unless you plan on overclocking.



I do overclock, but with much, much lower voltage with my main CPU (FX-60). The modification has changed this, I can now overclock FX-60 to 2.9GHz with just 1.325v & it will also pass prime95 with easy.


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## lexluthermiester (Nov 24, 2017)

Mr.Scott said:


> Which is a substantial increase from stock resulting in more load on the VRM section. It is also unnecessary unless you plan on overclocking, which you are obviously doing running a FX-57 at 3.2
> In which case, you should be using a more substantial board instead of modding that junk board.


The board in question is not a junk board. It's is a budget model, but it's also Asus. And 3.2ghz on an FX-57 is hardly a substantial overclock. Those VRM's will not be pushed hard enough to be a problem.


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## delshay (Nov 24, 2017)

@OP

This link will aid you. use all the sub links in threads.

https://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=47545


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## delshay (Nov 24, 2017)

lexluthermiester said:


> Voltage, farad and polarity. As long as they are matched up, electrolytic's can easily be replaced with solid-state.



Please read this link & sub link, if you are planning on doing modification. If you are not planning on doing modification, don't waste you time. But there is massive amount of information here.

One thing I would like to point out, you don't have to used the same voltage on some part of the motherboard. Ie chipset has 6.3v capacitor, you don't need 6.3v capacitor.

Chipset only runs at around 1.1 to 1.3v, so you can use 4v capacitors. This is just a example I have used, so you have to really thing about it.

Would you need 6.3v capacitor at the DIMMs? First thing here is, is there even 4v option in the BIOS, mine only goes to 3v.

Think about it, but you must always have a gap just in-case there is a spike in voltage, you do not want to exceed the voltage of the capacitor, even when first powered on, so my DIMMs have 4v capacitors as max in BIOS is only 3v Max.   BIOS default/reset is 2.7v

NOTE: Some parts of the motherboard do need 6.3v capacitors like USB port & around the PCI/PCI-e slots & there maybe other parts that required 6.3v capacitors. Around the PCI/PCI-e slot you also need 16v capacitors.

I also don't recommend 4v capacitors on the 3.3v rail, use 6.3v capacitors only.


https://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=47545


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## Mr.Scott (Nov 24, 2017)

lexluthermiester said:


> The board in question is not a junk board. It's is a budget model, but it's also Asus. And 3.2ghz on an FX-57 is hardly a substantial overclock. Those VRM's will not be pushed hard enough to be a problem.



lol. If you say so.
Ever overclocked a FX-57?
So you're saying Asus's budget model is better than everybody else's budget model?
You make me laugh.


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## eidairaman1 (Nov 25, 2017)

Mr.Scott said:


> lol. If you say so.
> Ever overclocked a FX-57?
> So you're saying Asus's budget model is better than everybody else's budget model?
> You make me laugh.



There is a point to this,  these budget boards are pretty much what OEM boards are, aka ECS, PCChips, Biostar, MSI. They are good for stock runs but not goot for overclocking unless you like destroying parts to include the cpu from putting dirty voltage through it.

I have to agree, this board is not worth it unless you add additional high quality vrm phases.

Mr. Scott has been doing LN2/DICE ocing for sometime, oc longer than I have been. I only discovered it in 2003 myself.


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## Bones (Nov 25, 2017)

delshay said:


> I do overclock, but with much, much lower voltage with my main CPU (FX-60). The modification has changed this, _I can now overclock FX-60 to 2.9GHz with just 1.325v _& it will also pass prime95 with easy.



You mean after all the time you spent working on your problem(s) _you just now got it to do that_?

I can do this - Because I did:




Go higher with less voltage, complete a long, heavily loaded benchmark run like this, then *SHOW US* the actual result with no BS lip-service and we'll talk then.


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## eidairaman1 (Nov 25, 2017)

Bones said:


> You mean after all the time you spent working on your problem(s) _you just now got it to do that_?
> 
> I can do this - Because I did:
> View attachment 94256
> ...



Mr. Scott knows this guy, so this thread has run its course, abandon the sinking ship

/thread


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## Bones (Nov 25, 2017)

Had to show it to make the point and set the example - Nothing special about his claim(s) and that's all there is to it is at this point, nothing more.

Until something of substance is actually shown backing his claim(s) that's all it is or ever will be. 
BTW the board used still has it's original style caps, not modified or anything else done to it. 

Over and out.


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## delshay (Nov 25, 2017)

Bones said:


> You mean after all the time you spent working on your problem(s) _you just now got it to do that_?
> 
> I can do this - Because I did:
> View attachment 94256
> ...



You either have a very good CPU or you are using a something different to cool the CPU, as I don't see any fan speed. What are you using to cool the CPU.

& no my CPU would not operate & 3GHz with that voltage, the lowest it will boot into windows is 1.325v, but it will not pass prime95 @3GHz, 2.9GHz is prime95 perfect. 

It would be helpful if you provide a link to download that benchmark program (windows 7 64bit).

This thread is about if you can change from Electrolytic to Polymer on motherboards. I have provided link to show that it can be done, & I have done that here. It's not a benchmarking thread.

EDIT EDIT EDIT

There is only one way you can get that CPU to do 3GHz with that voltage. Don't try to be smart with me, I think I know how you done it.


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## lexluthermiester (Nov 25, 2017)

Mr.Scott said:


> lol. If you say so.


Yup, I do.


Mr.Scott said:


> Ever overclocked a FX-57?


Yup, I have. Back then I was working at a shop and one of my specialties was OCing. The FX series of CPU's took no special effort. They were subject to the silicon lottery like everything else, but were easy to OC to decent levels. 3.2ghz for an FX-57 was not difficult. At all. If you were/are having troubles, YOU are doing something wrong.


Mr.Scott said:


> So you're saying Asus's budget model is better than everybody else's budget model?


Generally speaking, at that time and for that chipset, yes.


Mr.Scott said:


> You make me laugh.


Irony, far out..


delshay said:


> Please read this link & sub link, if you are planning on doing modification. If you are not planning on doing modification, don't waste you time. But there is massive amount of information here.
> One thing I would like to point out, you don't have to used the same voltage on some part of the motherboard. Ie chipset has 6.3v capacitor, you don't need 6.3v capacitor.
> Chipset only runs at around 1.1 to 1.3v, so you can use 4v capacitors. This is just a example I have used, so you have to really thing about it.
> Would you need 6.3v capacitor at the DIMMs? First thing here is, is there even 4v option in the BIOS, mine only goes to 3v.
> ...


Those are excellent points. To add to that it should be noted that board makers often use parts that exceed the needs of the circuit to compensate for variances elsewhere on the board. The effects of such are not always obvious. So as a general rule, you are right in that you don't absolutely have to use the exact same voltage rating for caps, but it's best to do so just in case such a condition exists on the board.


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## delshay (Nov 25, 2017)

lexluthermiester said:


> Yup, I do.
> 
> Yup, I have. Back then I was working at shop and one of my specialties was OCing. The FX series of CPU's took no special effort. They were subject to the silicon lottery like everything else, but were easy to OC to decent levels. 3.2ghz for an FX-57 was not difficult. At all. If you were/are having troubles, YOU are doing something wrong.
> 
> ...



If the voltage regulation was exceeded, the first thing that will go is the chip, not the capacitor.

There is also a debate if you should use higher voltage capacitors as it does no harm. After seeing a video on youtube where a user tested two capacitors "same value" but one was rated with a higher voltage than the other, the lower voltage capacitor showed better filtering on the scope meter

If you look at PDF docs on capacitors, you will see, lower voltage capacitors has a lower "leakage current" than a capacitor with the same value but has a higher voltage rating. So in my case, I would have been better off with 2.5v for the chipset, as chipset has a max voltage of 1.3v.

What you need to be doing is checking what is the max voltage for every component in the BIOS, this will determine what voltage capacitor you will use. Always keep a minimum 1v gap to the max value of the capacitor, as you need to take into account of spikes in voltage.

EDIT: Around the PCI/PCI-e slots you need 16v capacitors too. So you need both voltages 16v & 6.3v, there's no getting around this.

Manufactures buy there parts in bulk, so to save money their fit higher voltage capacitors on some part of the motherboard, like I said, why would you need a 6.3v capacitor for something that operates at 1.3v.

If you look modern motherboards, some VRM have 6.3v capacitors, that's for extreme overclockers.


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## AsRock (Nov 25, 2017)

Just a thought, if you go though with replacing the caps, if you don't have one already pick up a dentist pick


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## Bones (Nov 25, 2017)

delshay said:


> There is only one way you can get that CPU to do 3GHz with that voltage. Don't try to be smart with me, I think I know how you done it.



Oh really?
How did I do that?

EDIT:
Speaking of benchmarking, it isn't a thread for Prime95 either yet you made reference to that so my post is fair enough, also demonstrates the chip and board are capable of what I could have said but didn't have to, the result says all that needs to be said about it.

All I've done is to show and prove it and that seems to offend you - Don't want to show any proof of your claims on your part?
_Get over it._

Yes, cap modding CAN help but it can only make up for so much.

One more thing:
This is getting off topic _as you were so quick to point out_ after the proof I posted was done so..... This is the last reply to this thread from me period since I know you'll try and drag this on but that would make it even further off topic and no need for that.


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## lexluthermiester (Nov 25, 2017)

AsRock said:


> Just a thought, if you go though with replacing the caps, if you don't have one already pick up a dentist pick


Yes, this. A good tweezer set is essential for surface mount component work.


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## Vario (Nov 25, 2017)

I don't understand how this thread devolved into epeen comparison.  Not sure why anyone cares about this?  These chips all overclocked differently, there was a lot of variablity.  I owned six 939 processors, several venice, san diego, and an opteron.  They all clocked differently.  The best overclocker had the worst stepping by reputation (opteron CABGE).  Bragging about silicon lottery from 12 years ago is a bit much.

How about getting back to the OP @natr0n's recapping? Are you going to recap your board?

As far as recap vs buy another board, all of these boards had defective capacitors.  If your board is otherwise good, recap it.  The capacitors used on these boards will leak or bulge, it is only a matter of time.  If it is a system you care about you should recap it.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague


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## delshay (Nov 25, 2017)

Bones said:


> Oh really?
> How did I do that?
> 
> EDIT:
> ...



Everything I am posting is related to this thread, including benchmarks, as it part of a check after most of the motherboard has been changed over to a new type of capacitor.

Somekind of checks must be done, otherwise how do you know what you have done don't have side effects. You are posting something that's not related to capacitor change over.

If you have finished posting in this thread, then good, you may want to take your sidekick with you.

Just for the record, these are part of a small numbers of users that gang-up on me on OCN.


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## lexluthermiester (Nov 25, 2017)

Gonna have to agree with Vario. Enough with the drama.  The OP has very good answers, info and perspectives to consider about cap replacement, and even an offer of actual parts for the cost of shipping. Whether or not the board in question is worth the effort is up to no one but the owner of said board. They didn't ask if we thought it was or wasn't worth such an effort, only if it was possible.


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## natr0n (Nov 26, 2017)

The board is an asus a8n-la. This is a prebuilt hp/compaq. I have used a similar chipset in a retail board in the past for a friend which was memorable, so that got me thinking can I fix it.
You know because some of us actually like to fix things to make them functional.That's the idea of this thread. It's not about "I buy/or am given the best motherboards/parts and I look down on you because my time is valuable"

I appreciate all the actual help posted.


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## Mr.Scott (Nov 26, 2017)

Just gonna throw this out there.
It's a 30 piece cap kit for that board. Even at a buck a cap, not including your time, that's 30 bucks.
Those boards go for 25 bucks all day long on ebay.
Just replace the board.

FWIW, I DO recap boards...........if it's worth it.


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## delshay (Nov 26, 2017)

@OP

Because you are doing a number of motherboards, your best friend is going to be a ESR Metre. Part of my changeover, capacitors were remove from dead very expensive motherboards. You can use find capacitors from other dead equipment, just insure their are the same value if you stay with Electrolytic. If you are going polymer you would have found out capacity has changed, like my motherboard has.

I also bought new capacitors from a well known dealer (no fake) & out of a batch of capacitors, a small number of capacitors had very poor reading, but the numbers are very small, this is why I double checked with two ESR Metre. So you can buy bad capacitors even if their are new.

Have fun changing it over, other than buying a more expensive motherboard & messing it up. Practice first on those motherboards you have.
The hardest part is removing the old solder from the holes, but you will soon find smart ways around this.

If you are going polymer, do the VRM first then test from there. Do a number of test including overclocking. If there is a problem sort this out first, don't do changes to other parts of the motherboard without fixing this first, unless you have to change a bad capacitor on other parts of the motherboard.

EDIT: Capacitors removed from dead/old equipment must be tested with a ESR Metre.

Have fun & enjoy.


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## delshay (Nov 27, 2017)

lexluthermiester said:


> Voltage, farad and polarity. As long as they are matched up, electrolytic's can easily be replaced with solid-state.



UPDATE CORRECTION:

AFAIK the only capacitor that remains the same when changing from Electrolytic to polymer are the 16v 100uf.  I have only changed over four of eight (direct swap), as I ran out of this value & a few others, this is why there is a delay in full completion of changeover.

So you were right to some degree.

I have just discovered the thanks icon, I am new to this site, need to find my way around.


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## delshay (Dec 8, 2017)

Motherboard is now 100% Polymer & completed. I will be changing capacitor around chipset again from 4v to 2.5v. The following screenshot was taken before the last 9 capacitor was inserted, It's the motherboard Northbridge IGP overclocked.


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## delshay (Jan 1, 2018)

EDIT: I have found a problem.

Motherboard HDMI output is intermittent. It only applies  when you do a reset where it will not display anything on screen. If & when I find what's wrong, I will post location of the fix. GFX card is not effected & always show output. 

The good news is image on screen seems clearer, with either IGP or GFX card, both seem to show a sharper image on screen.


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## jaggerwild (Jan 1, 2018)

natr0n said:


> The board is an asus a8n-la. This is a prebuilt hp/compaq. I have used a similar chipset in a retail board in the past for a friend which was memorable, so that got me thinking can I fix it.
> You know because some of us actually like to fix things to make them functional.That's the idea of this thread. It's not about "I buy/or am given the best motherboards/parts and I look down on you because my time is valuable"
> 
> I appreciate all the actual help posted.



 Ive done a board, can't recall what it was but I got it cheap off Flee Bay. I knew some one would buy it so I bought it recapped it(no CPU to test it with just made sure my caps where properly polarised). Then relisted it on Flee bay for a profit, like used cars(there is an ass for every seat)someone bought it to. The caps where advertised as bad and were not the new style, so it was easy to find n buy new ones. 
 On a separate topic I saw your micro scope on you tube, must say very impressive!!!


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## delshay (Feb 9, 2018)

After capacitor changes I then found this thread http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=41883

FX60 CPU 1.2v set in the BIOS, gain of 0.25mv lower voltage with capacitor changeover.

Below is a screenshot with prime95 running. Note my idle temperature, it has always been this low. This is due to my modified IHS/Heatsink which I already posted info in this thread.

1c improvement over Liquid Metal Compound, but it never needs thermal paste/compound between IHS/Heatsink, it's become obsolete here. 

CPU die & IHS is next to be fixed.

Big update on it's way hopefully with a fix for the motherboard HDMI.


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## delshay (Mar 24, 2018)

QUICK UPDATE: HDMI port "is working correctly"

PROBLEM FOUND: The problem was the main memory DIMMs. It's ultra sensitive to DIMM errors when overclocking even thou I have selected the onboard sideband memory & not shared memory. Polymer Capacitors has changed the sensitivity  in this area.

If you are doing an all Polymer change-over you may not encounter this problem if you don't have an on-board GFX chip. Your overclocking will be reduced if you are hitting the smallest of memory errors. Before I could overclock very high with a few memory errors & computer will always display an output, but now it can only do this via the 15 pin VGA output, where the HDMI port will flake out.

In short you can still push to the bitter end when overclocking "with memory errors", but you will not get a HDMI output from the motherboard.


As for overclocking the onboard GFX chip, it can set a world record on HWBot, I just did not push-it further, as it did not have it custom heatsink fitted when testing.

New parts arrive early next month. It has been on order from last year December, so their brand new 2018 parts.

OFF TOPIC

Just to make you aware, the CPU (FX-60) also has extra capacitors. The unused pads on the CPU is filled-in with ceramic capacitors. The latest modification to the CPU has just failed. It's supposed to have an extra 54 Tantalum Capacitors (0603). I bought the wrong height (1.00mm). It needs to be below 1.00mm to prevent it from coming into contact with the IHS. So I am now looking at 0.75 to 0.85mm to complete CPU *penultimate*  update, awaiting another experimental final update that also needs to be squeeze under the IHS.   ..It's going to be very busy under the IHS, nevertheless it must be done.


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## delshay (Jul 16, 2018)

UPDATE: Capacitors have still not arrived, ordered last year December, so in the mean time here is screenshot of the motherboard with all the capacitor changes.  Capacitors have different colours including gold.

OTHER NEW EXPERIMENTAL MODIFICATIONS EXCLUSIVE TO TPU (NEW).

New is VRM cooling. This is the worlds first motherboard to have what I call DFC,   "DIRECT FET COOLING" & is exclusive to this 939 motherboard.
It has the highest heat transfer rate of all motherboards made, thanks to it's heatsink being directly soldered to the MOSFET. This does not improve overclocking, but improves stability, all the way to max voltage/CPU speed.

With the heatsink being so small on the MOSFET, it has support on the back for further cooling with it's copper bars which is not utilized yet. There are two options available to send the VRM to an even lower temperature.

WARNING: Do not copy what I have done here, as the heatsinks are "LIVE", this is why MOS-C1-LE are used.

COPPER BARS.

Those with a keen eye will see that this 939 motherboard also has a 8 pin CPU power socket. This also uses copper bars, but its completely hidden out of view, but I can assure you it is there. You can plug in a 4 pin power lead into the left or right socket or use the full 8 pin.

Screenshot is from test bench & not in it's regular case this is why you are see a 20 pin power cord & not a full 24 pin power cord.


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## lexluthermiester (Jul 16, 2018)

delshay said:


> UPDATE: Capacitors have still not arrived, ordered last year December


Wow. If it takes longer than 14 days you should always file a claim for refund.


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## delshay (Jul 28, 2018)

UPDATE:

Capacitors have turned up, but I have decided not to fit them to this motherboard, don't want to break it swapping it out again.

New 2.5v capacitors has been fitted to another motherboard, but it's the same type of motherboard as this one, & has been fitted around the northbridge. The motherboard in this thread has 4v capacitors around the northbridge.
What's also changed for this motherboard also is the 3.3v rail. This now has 4v capacitors. This goes against what I said in this thread, but 4v capacitors on the 3.3v rail is fine.

OTHER CHANGES:

Some of CPU capacitors are to be changed, & will move from 2.5v capacitors to straight 2v for both motherboard.

DESOLDERING:

This is not a tip, but my method of getting the solder out of the hole. My soldering iron takes mulit-tips which I can change on-a-fly. I use a sharp pointed tip which goes partly though the hole. This tip is used with a solder mop.

I sometimes desolder with the motherboard in the air with the soldering iron from below. This way the solder is flowing towards the iron.
Be aware you can also do this on the top side of the motherboard which is better, as you will do less damage to the pads (if any) to the pads on the backside of the motherboard. It's important not to damage the pads on the backside of the motherboard, as these are the pads you are going to solder to when new capacitors are replaced.

So in most cases I try to remove what solder I can from the hole from the top side of the motherboard first, then move to the back.
I tend to also coat the solder mop in flux also, as well as the motherboard which sometimes removes the solder from the hole at first attempt.

Another thing to note here, is watch temperature as you solder in the new capacitors. You don't want to overheat the new capacitors.

OTHER MODIFICATION:

Soldered IHS to heatsink has improved. A flaw in the soldering process has been discovered. So this has improved & I have doubled the mounting  pressure during soldering process. This has put a Dark Rock heatsink right up there with one of Noctua top-of-the-line heatsink & everything is pointing towards it will outperform it (not confirmed).


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## delshay (Aug 22, 2018)

Just a quick update.

I'v started to change the capacitors on the second motherboard, not much will change when compared to the motherboard in this thread, but I wanted to point out what has changed to the motherboard performance in this thread.

On the first motherboard in this thread with it's heatsink soldered to the MOSFET, @Max voltage with heavy load the motherboard no longer shuts-down. This is new, because it will normally shut down under heavy load due to overheated VRM .

But what has also changed is the CPU fans can now be set at it's minimum fan speed 150RPM. What's different here is @3Ghz with 1.4v, when the CPU goes idle & hits somewhere between 29-31C the CPU fans come to a complete stop for about 5-8 seconds. This is something i'v only seen when I did a experiment with Noctua 24v fans, but never seen the standard Noctua fans do this. The target temperature of CPU is 45c, but with this going on, the VRM is not overheating or shutting down the motherboard. This is impressive, because it's never done this before.

I also forgot to say the heatsink on the MOSFET are always very hot "all the time" with 1.35v+ underload. This is because the maximum heat is always being transferred to the heatsink, which are directly soldered to the MOSFETS.

What I also failed to say in this thread, the soldered "IHS to heatsink" has also changed. The IHS has been lapped in such a way to reduce it's height.
I have no real results on performance yet, but it's looking very impressive. I'm currently working on version two, where the IHS is lapped to more than three quarters, so it's ultra thin. I will have results when I can compare two lapped IHS with different heights.

If I have broken the rules by going a little bit off topic, then MODS can delete just this posting, but not close the thread. It's going to be interesting to know, does the reduce height in IHS improve temperature.

This also opens a question. Those users who lapped their IHS & gained performance, did their gain performance by the IHS being flat, or was is gained by the reduce height of the IHS.

A flaw was also detected during lapping IHS. This flaw can be detected by putting spirit level on a lapped IHS & rotate the IHS but keep the spirt level in the same position. Some of you may see this error, but don't take your computer apart to check it, it only affects me as my IHS are soldered to heatsink.


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