# Pump Making Grinding Sound



## blu3flannel (Nov 30, 2010)

My pump, after running for over 12 hours or so, begins to make this grinding/ stripping noise. It happens for a while, goes away, then comes back again. It also makes this high-pitched whining noise that doesn't stop when the grinding does. Does anyone know why this is happening? Thanks.


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## sneekypeet (Nov 30, 2010)

what pump is this, and can we see an image of the loop in your case please?


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## blu3flannel (Nov 30, 2010)

The pump is the OCZ Hydro Pulse 500, and I'll have pics up shortly.


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## Solaris17 (Nov 30, 2010)

$10 says air in the chamber.


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## blu3flannel (Nov 30, 2010)

Here's a picture of the loop. Sorry about the image quality.










Solaris17 said:


> $10 says air in the chamber.



Do I have to drain the whole loop to fix this?


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## erocker (Nov 30, 2010)

Yeah, it's air. Nice clean loop by the way! 

Make sure you have a place in your loop for the air to escape, preferable in the resevoir cap. Pick the case up with the pump running and shake it, move it around, etc. Eventually all of the air will escape and the noise will go away.


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## cadaveca (Nov 30, 2010)

Ok, so I bought this same pump from another user, and it made noises as well. It would only make this noise when the fittings were as you have them, or reversed, with the inlet up top...sideways, with both horizontal, there was no noise.

I know for a fact, with my pump, the noise was not caused by air. rolleyes: I'm lying). No amount of shaking, refilling loop, etc, fixed it.


So, I figured this was a lubrication problem, so I filled my loop with a water/glycol blend(About 30% glycol), and the noise is now gone.



For all I know, the glycol just pushed some air out of the pump.



So, try adding some glycol to your loop.


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## Solaris17 (Nov 30, 2010)

blu3flannel said:


> Here's a picture of the loop. Sorry about the image quality.
> 
> http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy142/blu3flannel/Computer Build/IMG_4367.jpg
> 
> ...



unfortunetly usually. unless you can plug the lines. Even if it takes time id do it. I ignored impeller shaft noise and mine got ripped apart somehow. even if their isnt air in the pump chamber it would be a good idea to look at the physical condition of the inside of the pump.


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## blu3flannel (Nov 30, 2010)

erocker said:


> Yeah, it's air. Nice clean loop by the way!
> 
> Make sure you have a place in your loop for the air to escape, preferable in the resevoir cap. Pick the case up with the pump running and shake it, move it around, etc. Eventually all of the air will escape and the noise will go away.



Thanks, it used to use 5' of tubing, but I cut 18" out when I put the res in and my temps dropped 10C!  And I'll try the shaking thing, hopefully it'll work. I leave this thing on 24/7 and I don't want it sounding like this all the time. :shadedshu


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## blu3flannel (Nov 30, 2010)

cadaveca said:


> Ok ,so I bought this same pump from another user, and it made noises as well. It would only make this noice when the fittings were as you have them, or revered, with the inlet up top...sideways, with both horizontal, there was no niose.
> 
> I know for a fact, with my pump, the noise was not caused by air. No amount of shaking, refilling loop, etc, fixed it.
> 
> ...



That's an interesting way to do it. Where do I get glycol, at the grocery store?


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## cadaveca (Nov 30, 2010)

Hardware/Automotive stores. Sometimes used as anti-freeze(which is why i have it, for when I take my PC outside in winter).


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## blu3flannel (Nov 30, 2010)

I did the shaking thing with the res lid off and the grinding stopped. The high-pitched whining hasn't stopped though.


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## blu3flannel (Nov 30, 2010)

Actually, the high-pitched whining just quit too. It's pretty much silent now. If anything else pops up I'll let you know. 

EDIT: Crap, the high-pitched whining noise is back, intermittently. What do I do to fix it?


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## Sasqui (Nov 30, 2010)

It sounds like a bearing.  Have you ever had the pump apart?  I've only got experience with the D5 type.  There's a ceramic ball that gets lubricated by the coolant (hence the void warrantee if it's ever run dry).


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## blu3flannel (Nov 30, 2010)

Nope, I've never opened the pump and I'll only do so if absolutely necessary. I really don't want to screw anything up and be without a system until I can get another pump.


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## robn (Nov 30, 2010)

Glycol is quite a good idea, it will help lubrication, but be careful: DON'T mix it in if you already have some other special coolant additive in there because that could lead to corrosion.


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## blu3flannel (Nov 30, 2010)

All I have in right now is distilled water. So I just add some glycol in and that'll help it?


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## cadaveca (Nov 30, 2010)

Yes, glycol will help. Glycol, although a type of alcohol, is very "wet" and slippery, and hence makes for a good lubricant in water loops.


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## blu3flannel (Dec 1, 2010)

So should I just pour out some of my water and add glycol? How much should I add?


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## cadaveca (Dec 1, 2010)

start with about 5-8%. And yeah, I'd just add it to the loop while it runs. that way the pump will get a big blast of it when you first put it in.


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## Sadasius (Dec 1, 2010)

What kind of res are you running? Some do not like glycol and can crack.


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## brandonwh64 (Dec 1, 2010)

Sadasius said:


> What kind of res are you running? Some do not like glycol and can crack.



Hes running a 5.25in Danger Den bay res.


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## Sadasius (Dec 1, 2010)

brandonwh64 said:


> Hes running a 5.25in Danger Den bay res.



The XSPC res? Can you post a link to the very res he has?


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## brandonwh64 (Dec 1, 2010)

uMM i just said danger den. The danger den website doesn't have that model anymore, its an older one


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## Sadasius (Dec 1, 2010)

Well according to FrozenCPU *"While designed to be corrosion resistant, OCZ reccommends the use of integrated anti-corrosive additives for all water cooling systems to ensure maximum lifespan of your products."* So it is recommended to use glycol. However if you notice any micro cracks starting in your res then I would swap the res out or get a better pump like the MCP 655 or something. May want to include a drain as well in your next tube routing project. Makes it easier to empty the loop and clean the system from time to time.


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## blu3flannel (Dec 1, 2010)

Sadasius said:


> Well according to FrozenCPU *"While designed to be corrosion resistant, OCZ reccommends the use of integrated anti-corrosive additives for all water cooling systems to ensure maximum lifespan of your products."* So it is recommended to use glycol. However if you notice any micro cracks starting in your res then I would swap the res out or get a better pump like the MCP 655 or something. May want to include a drain as well in your next tube routing project. Makes it easier to empty the loop and clean the system from time to time.



Yeah, there are some micro cracks starting to show on the left side. How much to MCP 655's go for?

EDIT: That's without added glycol, is that bad?


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## Sadasius (Dec 2, 2010)

blu3flannel said:


> Yeah, there are some micro cracks starting to show on the left side. How much to MCP 655's go for?
> 
> EDIT: That's without added glycol, is that bad?



Well you may wish to change out the 2 of them then. The pumps are usually around $100 depending if it comes with a top or not. Click pic (This one is $76.95)




 It is handier with a top to screw in fittings. However the stock top is fine as well and just need clamps. Also you may want to look at delrin bay reservoirs. They are more durable and resistant to cracking unlike many acrylic types. Take a look at BP's here..


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## blu3flannel (Dec 2, 2010)

I really can't afford that, is there a cheaper alternative that I can look into? Perhaps a quick fix or something?

EDIT: I may be able to when Christmas comes around, but I'll need to find something temporary until then. Any suggestions?

EDIT 2: Where would I empty and fill the loop if the res doesn't have the fillport in the top?


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## Sadasius (Dec 2, 2010)

blu3flannel said:


> I really can't afford that, is there a cheaper alternative that I can look into? Perhaps a quick fix or something?



A quick fix is using a 'T' line directly to the pump entrance that can serve to fill and empty the loop. 'T' lines have been the answer to this quick alternative since the beginning of watercooling. 



blu3flannel said:


> EDIT: I may be able to when Christmas comes around, but I'll need to find something temporary until then. Any suggestions?



For the pump or res? See above fix for res and the pump....well either take the noise for now or add glycol and take your chances a tsunami does not occur. 



blu3flannel said:


> EDIT 2: Where would I empty and fill the loop if the res doesn't have the fillport in the top?



You add lines as fill ports and you add a drain to the bottom of your loop. Very easy to implement. Heck my build has 2 drains right before each pump. Mind you I did it the expensive way. Using a small tuck away 'T' line is not only affordable but pretty darn wise as well. Same thing with a fill line. Add a small tuck away fill line with a screw top fitting to keep it all sealed up. Easy to do and cheap as well. All it takes is research and planning. But if that is your first loop then I would give yourself a pat on the back as that is pretty decent for the first time. If it is not your first time then hang your head in shame as you will not walk the halls of watercooling greatness....j/k 

Here is an old pic (need to take an updated one) of one of my systems. My tube routing is better now then in that old pic. But just before the pumps you can see I added ball valves that drain the loop. I simply bring my tower to the sink and open them up and open the fill port and it drain very quickly. No mess!


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## blu3flannel (Dec 2, 2010)

Sadasius said:


> A quick fix is using a 'T' line directly to the pump entrance that can serve to fill and empty the loop. 'T' lines have been the answer to this quick alternative since the beginning of watercooling.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thing is, I got the res so I didn't have to use a T-line anymore (used to have one, massive hassle though ). I really don't want to have to add the T-line back in and have to deal with it again. And what do you mean by a tsunami? Will the res bust open or something?


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## Sadasius (Dec 2, 2010)

blu3flannel said:


> Thing is, I got the res so I didn't have to use a T-line anymore (used to have one, massive hassle though ). I really don't want to have to add the T-line back in and have to deal with it again. And what do you mean by a tsunami? Will the res bust open or something?



Just gave an option that is quick and cheap which is exactly what you asked for. May not be what you want to hear but it is what it is. It should not just bust open but will start to leak slowly and then quicker. Water has a funny way of finding weak points. Grand Canyon is a case in point.


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## MT Alex (Dec 2, 2010)

With the location of your pump, draining would be a piece of cake by just taking off the zip tie, pulling the pump towards the edge of the case, and removing the inlet tube.  That's my exact MO as well.  I wouldn't worry about a T if you don't want it.  I have always wanted one, but not enough to rebuild everything.  The old inlet hose trick works fine.

Worst case scenario, the cracks in your pump rupture, the water drains out the bottom of your case (since your pump is in an opportune position,) and your cpu shuts itself down when it gets to hot.  Not great, but not a real big deal.  _EDIT:  Just noticed it's your res with the cracks, not your pump housing.  I doubt that Brandon would have sold you a res that was dangerous._

Also, the 655s are much louder than the Jingway pumps, if that makes a difference to you.


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## Wile E (Dec 2, 2010)

MT Alex said:


> With the location of your pump, draining would be a piece of cake by just taking off the zip tie, pulling the pump towards the edge of the case, and removing the inlet tube.  That's my exact MO as well.  I wouldn't worry about a T if you don't want it.  I have always wanted one, but not enough to rebuild everything.  The old inlet hose trick works fine.
> 
> Worst case scenario, the cracks in your pump rupture, the water drains out the bottom of your case (since your pump is in an opportune position,) and your cpu shuts itself down when it gets to hot.  Not great, but not a real big deal.  _EDIT:  Just noticed it's your res with the cracks, not your pump housing.  I doubt that Brandon would have sold you a res that was dangerous._
> 
> *Also, the 655s are much louder than the Jingway pumps*, if that makes a difference to you.


And much less awesome. If not the 655/D5, I like going with 350/DDC3.1 for silence or 355/DDC3.2 for performance with aftermarket tops.


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## blu3flannel (Dec 2, 2010)

Why do the 350/355 pumps need replacement tops, are the stock ones inadequate or something? And the 350 is only $60 on Newegg, hmm...


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## Wile E (Dec 2, 2010)

They only have fixed fittings for 3/8" ID tubing.


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## MT Alex (Dec 2, 2010)

This is the step above the Jingway you have.  I just got one to replace my 655 and I couldn't be happier.  http://www.dangerden.com/store/dd-cpx_pro-12v_pump.html?&cat=0  I'm pretty sure it has a lot more sauce than the 350, especially one without a top.  It is virtually silent, which (if you haven't guessed) is a huge deal to me.  The custom tops increase head pressure and make it easier to use g1/4 fittings.


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## Wile E (Dec 2, 2010)

MT Alex said:


> This is the step above the Jingway you have.  I just got one to replace my 655 and I couldn't be happier.  http://www.dangerden.com/store/dd-cpx_pro-12v_pump.html?&cat=0  I'm pretty sure it has a lot more sauce than the 350, especially one without a top.  It is virtually silent, which (if you haven't guessed) is a huge deal to me.  The custom tops increase head pressure and make it easier to use g1/4 fittings.



They don't have more power than a topped DDC, and they don't beat a stock DDC in a high head loop. Great for silence and low head loops tho.


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## MT Alex (Dec 2, 2010)

Yah, I was pulling that out of my ass.  They are so close it isn't even funny.  I have no experience with the ddc.  My 655 was a high flow, low head pump as well.  Both move water through my 2 rad, 2 block loop very well.



> The pump performs very well compared to the stock DDC 3.2.  An average to low restriction system would typically see higher flow rates with the CPX-Pro, and really high restriction systems would see very slightly more performance from the DDC.  The important part that catches my attention is the power consumption.  At the 2 GPM mark, the DDC is consuming nearly 21 watts, where then DD CPX-Pro is only consuming about 15 watts, so the DDC at that point is consuming about 40% more power which in the end becomes added heat to the loop.



Neat charts:
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Danger-Den_CPX-Pro-Pump-Review.html


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## Wile E (Dec 2, 2010)

Not sure where you were going with that post, but that article just basically said they are good for low head and silence, just like I said. 

They don't beat the topped DDC's tho.


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## MT Alex (Dec 2, 2010)

That's where I was going.  You were right.  Neat article, though.


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## Wile E (Dec 2, 2010)

I like all of his articles. Shame he retired.


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## Sadasius (Dec 2, 2010)

blu3flannel said:


> Why do the 350/355 pumps need replacement tops, are the stock ones inadequate or something? And the 350 is only $60 on Newegg, hmm...



Just watch the temps on the bottom of those pumps as they get hot and some aftermarket tops leak into the motor. Plus do not forget the history of these pumps burning out which is why I suggested the D5 or the MCP 655 as it is cheaper from Swiftech. If you get the variable one like I pointed out you can turn it down for silence if need be but I have to say they are pretty silent to me on full pin. The 350/355 are awesome when it comes to performance on the top curve but they don't like going the distance. It is why they are cheaper. You don't hear of many D5's burning out because they are designed to run all day every day. I have a few that have been running literally for years 24/7 without a hiccup.


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## blu3flannel (Dec 2, 2010)

Performance PCs has the 655 for a nice price. The only thing is that I use 3/8" barbs and this comes with 1/2". I'm guessing that that's where a custom top comes in, right?


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## blu3flannel (Dec 2, 2010)

And just for the record, here's an mp3 of the sound it makes. The mic doesn't pick it up as well, so imaging the whining sound doubled.


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## MohawkAngel (Dec 2, 2010)

With my car mechanic experience I could say that a worn out pump is always making grinding noise not intermitent. So you have air in your system or some shits are passing between the pump gears. One thing is sure its that in boat case your plastic bushings inside the pump could be worn a little now so next time dismantle the pump and repack it a little with a thin film of silicon based grease. We use this grease for whippers motor on cars. Since its always getting water frrom road or liquid on it. It will help to repair the damage done to plastic and extend the life of your pump.


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## MohawkAngel (Dec 2, 2010)

blu3flannel said:


> And just for the record, here's an mp3 of the sound it makes. The mic doesn't pick it up as well, so imaging the whining sound doubled.



Definitivly a bushing that starts to worn out. Maybe the air in the system made it overheat and now theres the result. Do what i told dismantle the system and see if the small bushing could be replaced aftr cleaning the pump. If not then put some thin grease like i told ya.


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## blu3flannel (Dec 2, 2010)

Where would I get a replacement bushing and how would I know which one to get?


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## MohawkAngel (Dec 3, 2010)

First: Dismantle the pump  
After you will know what bushing to get  You should get it at any electronic stores or hardware stores.


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## brandonwh64 (Dec 3, 2010)

The pump was only ran for 3 months or less in my HTPC and i purchased the pump from ebay NIB. I always ran distilled water and never dry. the loop had a T-Line the whole time that was clear so i could monitor water levels. The RES was ran in my main rig for over 6 months and never had a single leak, I also pointed out that maybe USPS may have gotten a little ruff with it. If you want a refund let me know and i can arrange it.


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## blu3flannel (Dec 3, 2010)

Now that that's resolved, I welcome any opinions that may help me out of this tight spot.


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## fullinfusion (Dec 3, 2010)

blu3flannel said:


> I did the shaking thing with the res lid off and the grinding stopped. The high-pitched whining hasn't stopped though.


Shaking and lifting dont do shit mate!

You wanna squeeze the pressure line to slow the flow, that way you can regulate the flow and intern make the trapped air bubbles rise to the top of your res.

Also after you get the noise worked out make sure you grab a Gram of 99.999% silver to drop into the loop to deture any bacterial growth in the loop


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## MT Alex (Dec 3, 2010)

blu3flannel said:


> Now that that's resolved, I welcome any opinions that may help me out of this tight spot.



Try cadaveca's idea of turning the pump horizontal.  I know it would be a pain, and your tubing would be strained, but if it is a bushing or other pump issue the orentaion may fix or the noise.  The pump will probably chug on for years, albeit a noisily, so your problem isn't super immediate or threatening.  I remember when you first set up your loop you had some anxious moments, but things worked out fine.

I wouldn't worry about the res.  It's not like there is a ton of pressure on it that will make it start shooting water.  If your worried about the cracks, smear some plastic epoxy on them.


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## blu3flannel (Dec 3, 2010)

fullinfusion said:


> Also after you get the noise worked out make sure you grab a Gram of 99.999% silver to drop into the loop to deture any bacterial growth in the loop


So should a drop of AS5 do the trick?



MT Alex said:


> Try cadaveca's idea of turning the pump horizontal.  I know it would be a pain, and your tubing would be strained, but if it is a bushing or other pump issue the orentaion may fix or the noise.  The pump will probably chug on for years, albeit a noisily, so your problem isn't super immediate or threatening.  I remember when you first set up your loop you had some anxious moments, but things worked out fine.
> 
> I wouldn't worry about the res.  It's not like there is a ton of pressure on it that will make it start shooting water.  If your worried about the cracks, smear some plastic epoxy on them.


Can I just turn my whole computer sideways or just do the pump?


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## MohawkAngel (Dec 3, 2010)

Ok it is a job I can described here as same principle as car brakes bleeding. 

Since there is nothing against the blow back the pressure I suggest you put a T there and slightly open the valve. The air will be poped out and when it done close the T. Thats also what I was doing with old cars cooling hoses. Put a T soemwhere and when you see no more bubbles then you know the system have been "bleeded". The advantage is that you dont need to start the computer you can do it with the pump plugged on any 12V source. 

MORE EXPLANATION: Get a glass jar and fill ithalf full with cooling liquid. At the plug of the T you gonna open put a clear hose that you gonna dip the end into the jar. Start the pump and see the liquid flow...when theres no more air  in your system you wont see bubbles anymore. Close the T prior to removing the hose from the jar or you will suck air back in. 

IMPORTANT: Always be sure there is enough liquid cooling left in your computer reservoir or it will empty the system and suck back the air left in the system after it emptied it from liquid and you gonna have to start it all over again.


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## fullinfusion (Dec 3, 2010)

blu3flannel said:


> So should a drop of AS5 do the trick?
> 
> 
> GOD NO! don't use AS5 in the loop :shadedshu
> ...


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## MohawkAngel (Dec 3, 2010)

You could simply use GM Dex-Cool coolant or the new Low toxicity coolant that are animals safe. They are low acid and wont have bacterias.


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## blu3flannel (Dec 3, 2010)

Alright, whenever my 470 waterblock gets here I'll do the taking-apart stuff, but for now, I'll try the turning and the antifreeze.


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## fullinfusion (Dec 3, 2010)

MohawkAngel said:


> You could simply use GM Dex-Cool coolant or the new Low toxicity coolant that are animals safe. They are low acid and wont have bacterias.


you dont think anti-freeze grows bacteria? Bacteria grows in every thing.

Distilled water and a 5 dollar kill coil will give the best results for the cooling needs... So for as little as 6 dollars you have a trouble free clean loop that will look great for years


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## MohawkAngel (Dec 3, 2010)

You think a col of silver kills bacterias? lol SCAM !  It's for people who don't kno metals properties and get caught in false publicity. Anti-freeze become sludge with many years of using but the GM Dex-Cool does not it is good enought to keep its property for over 100 000 miles before changing it. Be sure you wont grow bacterias for a while in your computer even at 24/7 you should have for over a year and more before changing it  I would even suggest Dexron-3 automatic transmission oil. It flows well and resist more heat than you could ever imagine. I know many hardcore computers coolant guys will tell you to buy computer coolant expecially sold. But you pay for the hype and the publicity around it  Most coolant are the same as coolant used in cars just sold under different name and package with different colours


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## Sadasius (Dec 3, 2010)

Damn I am in hillbilly watercooling hell ain't I?   That's okay....I like challenges.


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## fullinfusion (Dec 3, 2010)

MohawkAngel said:


> You think a col of silver kills bacterias? lol SCAM !  It's for people who don't kno metals properties and get caught in false publicity. Anti-freeze become sludge with many years of using but the GM Dex-Cool does not it is good enought to keep its property for over 100 000 miles before changing it. Be sure you wont grow bacterias for a while in your computer even at 24/7 you should have for over a year and more before changing it  I would even suggest Dexron-3 automatic transmission oil. It flows well and resist more heat than you could ever imagine. I know many hardcore computers coolant guys will tell you to buy computer coolant expecially sold. But you pay for the hype and the publicity around it  Most coolant are the same as coolant used in cars just sold under different name and package with different colours


Before ya start talking out your ***  maybe you need to do a bit more googling mate.
Silver 99.999% does indeed kill bacteria in water. Scam? sure some sell bogus so called silver kill coils.

I ran two identical acrylic reservoirs, one with an actual 1 gram stamped 999% silver piece I lodged into a fitting.

Next one had no silver in the loop.

Now can ya guess which res looks like it was just pulled outta the box and looks like new 1 year later?


next, your Dextron tranny oil. It resists heat? Is the point of an oil to take heat and flow into a cooler to dissipate the heat? Heat resistant oil is for the oil to withstand break down.
If it resist's heat then how is it to be able to carry away the heat?
Please enlighten me. 

Oh and to edit real quick... your anti freeze, its life of a million miles is just a way of saying the PH of the liquid will remain a constant before it starts eating away the precious metal in the system


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## fullinfusion (Dec 3, 2010)

This is real silver, not the fake shit


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## MohawkAngel (Dec 4, 2010)

Dexron oil or any other transmission oil could transfer heat but still have a breakdown point before beginning to foam. But we are talking about really fuc**** temps  When it happens in a car tranny its because the guys ran with a low level of transmission oil or made the transmission slip in lower gears before going to Drive position. Like in exemple when you engage to First or Second gear to move out from snow. If the guy is keeping the pedal to the floor on first and even second gear too long the oil overheat then foam. 

For a computer it would be perfect because Dexron 3 oil is the cheapest like 2.50$ for a quart and flow like any other computer lubricant. Can withstand temps of 200 farenheit (95 celcius) before foaming so as you can guess the cpu will blow before that  Some guys add a radiator to their transmission to cool down the oil temps so you could stick with the cooler you already have there and it would be fine. 

For the anti freeze its 100 000 miles not a million. Anyway before you get 100 000 miles your pump will die or you would simply have upgraded the computer


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## Wile E (Dec 4, 2010)

MohawkAngel said:


> You think a col of silver kills bacterias? lol SCAM !  It's for people who don't kno metals properties and get caught in false publicity. Anti-freeze become sludge with many years of using but the GM Dex-Cool does not it is good enought to keep its property for over 100 000 miles before changing it. Be sure you wont grow bacterias for a while in your computer even at 24/7 you should have for over a year and more before changing it  I would even suggest Dexron-3 automatic transmission oil. It flows well and resist more heat than you could ever imagine. I know many hardcore computers coolant guys will tell you to buy computer coolant expecially sold. But you pay for the hype and the publicity around it  Most coolant are the same as coolant used in cars just sold under different name and package with different colours



Distilled water is the best performing coolant you can get for the temps that computers run at. 

And silver is toxic to many types of bacteria, fungus and algae, btw.


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## MohawkAngel (Dec 4, 2010)

Silver is oxydizer also  Distilled water could be good depends of how many hours each month you wanna run it. I guess hes gonna make his choice soon before the pump blow of


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## blu3flannel (Dec 4, 2010)

MohawkAngel said:


> before the pump blow of



Man, you're scaring me with this stuff. I'm pretty sure my pump will not instantaneously explode because I'm using the recommended distilled water. If I add glycol it most likely won't either. Why do you keep saying that it's going to rip itself apart?


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## MT Alex (Dec 4, 2010)

It's not.


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## blu3flannel (Dec 4, 2010)

MT Alex said:


> It's not.



That's a good thing. Oh, I let it run on its side for a while, and the sounds haven't happened for quite some time (knock on wood).


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## twicksisted (Dec 4, 2010)

i dont see nothing wrong with a little pump & grind


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## MT Alex (Jan 5, 2011)

What's up with your pump noise?  My Jingway started to make some annoying bearing noises last night:shadedshu  Like yours, the noise can be dampened by changing its position.  Just wondering if yours fixed itself.


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## Deleted member 74752 (Jan 5, 2011)

Dex-Cool is fine...until air hits it. It will then start to degrade, crystalize and begin eating aluminum. That junk was flushed out of my Chevy years ago and replaced with the good old "green stuff". Screw the pets...they don't pay the bills.


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## brandonwh64 (Jan 5, 2011)

rickss69 said:


> dex-cool is fine...until air hits it. It will then start to degrade, crystalize and begin eating aluminum. That junk was flushed out of my chevy years ago and replaced with the good old "green stuff". *screw the pets...they don't pay the bills. *



lol!


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