# Triple Loop External Cooler: the Tank



## CyberDruid (Apr 22, 2008)

Well I am lucky enough to have a little pause in my build schedule and I will be working on a project that has been rattling around in my head for over a year.

Using some pebble finish lexan, aluminum angles and a lot of cooling gear I'll be crafting a new cooler for my rig. I've about given up on internally LCing my own rigs because I tinker too much and internal LCS is usually like putting 25 pounds of crap in a 5 pound bag...just try upgrading without completely draining and taking everything to bits...it'll result in much

I've been thinking about how I want this to work and there are some guiding factors: must be really awesome looking (as it is likely going to be something I use to pimp myself out ); must outperform any "normally aspirated" hotrod cooler ever made (or else whyt bother?); must be quiet enough to have close to the desk. 

My current LC set up is quite potent...but the rig is pushing it past it's capacity...

I am looking for input and my design is really open. I've been visualizing a number of configs but I am not ties to any.

I am tied to the LC gear as it is on hand and it's what I intend to use.

GEAR

3 x Thermochill PA120.3

3 x EK Cylinder Reservoirs

3 x Alphacool 1510 pumps

Meanwell S150-24 24V PSU

Emtel 12V PSU

Low Restriction Quick Connects might not use these...too restrictive?) 

9 X 67cfm S-Flex


I'll post up some sketches in a bit.


So: Good Looking; Powerful; Quiet are the main guides to the design.

Secondary considerations are: use materials on hand; keep Form Factor as small as possible without sacrificing any of the main goals.

Materials I have on hand are aluminum extrusions and acrylic. Although I could purchase mesh and other sheet goods to expand on a good design.

Headed down the hill to the shop to see how this all stacks up.


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## intel igent (Apr 22, 2008)

which rig is this for? skulltrail?


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## CyberDruid (Apr 22, 2008)

yippers. The PA120.3  and Bonnie are capable of an estimated 800 Watts of heat dissipation. Just a guestimate. Apparently I am cranking out a lot more than that now. I want to see much lower CPU temps. I am running in the low 50C range and usually can keep everything in the low 30C range.

I keep going back and forth on how to configure the loop(s) and how to conduct cool air through the rads with the least amount of sonic distress to my earbulbs.

I'll post shots of the gear directly to help give a better idea of what and how big...


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## CyberDruid (Apr 22, 2008)

'


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## intel igent (Apr 22, 2008)

i like the potential look of the hexagon setup myself (its different - aquarium style  ) you could stack the PSU's in the middle and have a large fan at the top of the enclosure drawing all the hot air out? 

each one of the TC rads should be good for ~540w 

those alphacool pumps are quite monstrous, almost IWAKI performance 

im assuming one loop will be for CPU, one for mosfet/NB/SB, and the other for GFX?

you are a visionary Cyber


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## Silverel (Apr 22, 2008)

This already looks like a good thread to watch 

You should put a link up in the Bad Boys of Case Modding thread.


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## CyberDruid (Apr 22, 2008)

Thanks for the input. Yep. You got the loops sorted. I like the hex too except for the huge waste of floor space. I was thinking something like a Radiation symbol...Since I already have these fans on hand I am not going the huge automotive rad fan route...at leat not yet.

One concern is to set it up so the air does not recycle and also to have the rads oriented so the fans are not "fighting" each other for air...

I also want to introduce some off angle to the rad orientation to try and dampen the sound fron the fans. If they are angled then the sound will have to bounce around and dissipate.

Thinking about a trapezoidal shape with the long side on the top...this will aim the rads at the floor somewhat (and I have an AC vent nearby the desk) and hopefully will kill off some fan noise against the carpetted floor...


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## intel igent (Apr 22, 2008)

you could put them at a slight angle within the hex no? it would be kinda big i guess....

i was simply suggesting to have a large fan (like a 200mm from antec900) at the top to vent the air thats already been drawn in by the 120's 

trapezoid idea is cool! woud be wicked nice if it could get that cool air from the A/C 

biohazard idea is cool too!


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## steelkane (Apr 22, 2008)

First of all,, Nice work shop, Second thats alot of hardware to work with, hope it all comes together the way u see it.


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## CyberDruid (Apr 23, 2008)

Well after I got the three rads strapped together they were sooooooo heavy a trapezoidal shape would just tip over 

So I went with a cube. The amount of material, time, and planning it would take to pull off a sweet looking hex is just too much right now. Although I will revisit that sometime in the future 

Here's what I got together so far. Technically the thning is ready to Rock and Roll





I used a piece of 1 x 1/8 strap to join the rads. I also used silicon grommets to isolate them from the structure.





Truly the most amazing looking thing I have seen in my shop...it's like a car rad now





At least ten pounds empty...









I did some measuring...





Mader an incredibly detailed construction diagram...





Somtimes ya just gotta bust a move...I was tired of gyrating around 12 different ideas so I started with a simple frame.





I braced up the rad rack with some angle mitred to 45 degrees





Trying to keep this small was futile 





This isn't about small...










I am liking how it's going together at this point...





I tossed some tubing in there just to get a reality check





At this point I could put some wires on the PSU and git r done...but I want to add some acrylic to baffle the sound.





The pebble grain lexan is unbelievably expensive...we are talking HUNDREDS...sigh.





I added a strip up top to keep any air from recirculating.





This is my favorite part so far...no problem filling this humongo cooler...





The res/pump units get supported by the EK clips on a strap and by the cutout up top and by a piece of angle that I will 777 some Neoprene onto to deaden the noise.





Blue tape is aproximately where I plan to cut the exhaust port. 

The rear panel will get holes for the 6 lines. I will likely mount the AC plug there too. UYp top I will put any controls and gauges. Probably would look awesome with 6 gauges for pressure (in and out) and 6 gauges for the temps (in out) and maybe even a rheostat for the fans...but I doubt I will need to undervolt them.

Gonna call it a night before I screw anything up


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## steelkane (Apr 23, 2008)

Nice touch using the rivets, very very nice.


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## Fitseries3 (Apr 23, 2008)

that's the sickest cooling loop(s) i've ever seen!!! OMG>>>>> i want one!!!


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## CyberDruid (Apr 23, 2008)

Hey thanks.

About that fan up top here's my thinking on that: yes it would work very well...but I think it will compromise the sonic baffling. I will be lining the top back and part of the sides with Sonex









1" thick...works really well.

Here's how I tried to do that last time:

















The guts





The metering manifold (I call it the Hydra )













The control panel





One side is removable for easy access.





Lined...the depth I set the fans into the enclosure was to try and kill off the blade noise.





I line the bottom in an attempt to muffle the Iwaki...no dice...it's a loud-ass pump.





It's great for running a few Folding rigs on tech stations or bareback..or a quad and SLI or what ever you want...

But the problem is that the pump is really loud...it's not as annoying as a fan that's loud...but it's too damn loud for me.

Hence the switch to Alphacools.

And the cooler depicted above has 9 fans as well...6 on the PA120.3 and 2 on the Bonnie and one for general below decks cooling of the pump and PSUs.

So this time I was thinking is I angled the fans at the Sonex it would work even better. The pumps sit on a piece of angle that I will line in neoprene and I will use isolators on the straps that hold the EK clips. I really want this one to be quieter and at least twice as powerful. I want to shift at least 1500 watts.


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## JacKz5o (Apr 23, 2008)

Hey CD, nice to see you here 

More awesome mods as usual eh?


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## CyberDruid (Apr 23, 2008)

Well it's keeping me out of trouble sort of...

I have a two day lull in my schedule so I am building the cooler and taking care of some odds and ends around the house. Then the powdercoat should be completed and I will be full on finishing the Cosmos...


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## Fitseries3 (Apr 23, 2008)

how much does something like those cost? im thinking of build a single unit that can cool my main rig and my bench rig.


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## TheGoat Eater (Apr 23, 2008)

I have to admit that I started from the bottome up and i said to myself looks like Cyber's handiwork and sure enough...


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## CyberDruid (Apr 23, 2008)

fitseries3 said:


> how much does something like those cost? im thinking of build a single unit that can cool my main rig and my bench rig.



Oh lord...

uh

Well a single set up is probably about $200 in materials for the enclosure (plastic has gone through the roof due to oil prices :shadedshu) But you could obviously use a much cheaper and more rudimentary stand.

A PA120.3 is about $150 including shipping

Alphacool 1510 ia $100 but it outperforms the equally expensive MCP655 and comes with a variable PSU that is powered via molex from your PC PSU to provide anywhere from 8V-24V. According to tests by Martinm210 (see www.martinsliquidlab.com) it performs on par with the Iwaki RD 30 (which is a $280 pump).

The Reservoir I chose is about $45...but there are many options including a simple T line.

Then add tubing and stuff like that...

And then at least 3 fans (cheapest maybe $15 highest maybe $75)

SO barebones a single rad/pump set up might be around $300-$350

This rig is much more..

The Lexan alone was close to $200, I used three 8' lengths of 2" angle so at least $100 there (gotta check) plus misc. other pieces of aluminum call it $350 in material.

Three PA120.3 about $450

9 Ultra Kaze 2000RPM about $125

Three 1510 Pumps about $300 (more really have to include shipping)

Three EK reservoirs $150

Special fittings like the g 1/4 to g 1/4 adapters, lots of tubing, clamps etc add $50

And I have not yet started dolling the rig up with pressure gauges ($15 a pop) temp gauges ($12 a pop) Switches (?) breakers (?) quick disconnect fittings ($35 a set).

Then I plan to doll up the interior with more aluminum (maybe another $50)

Might even add lights...I dunno.

So right now nI have about $1500 in the parts alone and by the time I am done it could be very close to $2000 not including all the labor

Don't EVAR ask me again

It's better if I don't know!


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## Fitseries3 (Apr 23, 2008)

WOW!!! your right.... i shouldn't have asked. that's A LOT of money for a cooling setup. that's more than some peoples entire computer. 

hmmm..... maybe i could go for something a little less crazy.

i already have 2 Thermochill PA120.3's and 2 Laing D5's. i have 12 of the Scythe Ultra Kaze 120x38mm 3000rpm fans. i guess i could get 2 Reservoirs and put it all together in one unit. it wouldn't be anywhere near the performance of your setup though.


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## CyberDruid (Apr 23, 2008)

fitseries3 said:


> WOW!!! your right.... i shouldn't have asked. that's A LOT of money for a cooling setup. that's more than some peoples entire computer.
> 
> hmmm..... maybe i could go for something a little less crazy.
> 
> i already have 2 Thermochill PA120.3's and 2 Laing D5's. i have 12 of the Scythe Ultra Kaze 120x38mm 3000rpm fans. i guess i could get 2 Reservoirs and put it all together in one unit. it wouldn't be anywhere near the performance of your setup though.



Sounds to me like you are right up there...that's 1000+ watts of cooling power. Putting this stuff in an external enclosure is so much nicer. You can easily service and upgrade the rig...you can try and make it quieter by keeping it away from ear level and so on. I am totally an external cooler fanboy. I think internal LC is great for showing off and looking amazing..but for 24/7 use day and day out I would rather have my cooler farther away and my rig easy to service.

Plus when filling or draining there is almost no chance of fluid getting on the hardware...I find that swapping stuff out rarely causes much aeration...it's easier to try out differnt configs and blocks without having to completely drain and disassemble the loop.


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## Silverel (Apr 23, 2008)

That's a lot of loot to drop on cooling. o.o



Think you could ho0k me up with some of that modder-crack you're smoking? I'd love to be able to force myself to spend that much on anything.

Seriously. Crack. Gimmie.


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## CyberDruid (Apr 23, 2008)

I have been diagnosed with an incurable condition

_Tinkeritus in Extremus_


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## DanishDevil (Apr 23, 2008)

CyberDruid said:


> I have been diagnosed with an incurable condition
> 
> _Tinkeritus in Extremus_



Sounds terminal to your wallet


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## MKmods (Apr 24, 2008)

Thanks on the heads up on the pumps.


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## CyberDruid (Apr 25, 2008)

Mounting the PSUs on the rails





Fan wiring completed





110VAC attached to both PSUs





Fan Test





Getting ready to fit the pumps





Note Rheostat, Pump Kill Switch and Strain Relief. Pumps rest on the foam strip.





Ek reservoirs mount to the Alphacool 1510 pumps with G 1/4 adapters





Pump gets secured with a clip and a hole in the top. The tube presses the pump firmly into the foam lined rail.





Test fitted and plumbed.





Filling is extremely simple. Bleeding took less than 5 minutes for inital fill.





Obviously any leaks would be a bad thing...yet despite their proximity the PSUs are positioned away from any actual barbed fittings.





The side panels are off at this point so I can observe the operation.





The panel monted above the rads stops any air from recirculating. Removing the panel yields access to the bleeder screws.





I used some Storm waterblocks to give a bit of restriction.





The side panels will be routed to make triangular exhaust ports.





Through the sides I can access the PSU trimmers, wiring, and pumps





Almost immediately this pump was leaking from a misaligned O ring in the pump housing. Draining the loop was easy. I refitted the Oring and after a few moments noticed a weepage from the outlet fitting. The leak was from the metal to plasic connection. Alphacool uses a hard epoxy-like gap-filling hard sealant that is a transparent green ion color to mate the metal fitting with the plastic. These fittings are not designed to be tightened, loosened, removed...nothing. They are permanently glued in place. 

The smart thing to do would have been to pull the pump rebox it and send it back... instead I carefully freed the metal fitting and cleaned out the sealant and packed the threads with Pipe Paste and after three attempts got something like a leak free fitting...although I have my doubts about how long that would hold up. A better choice for repair would have been "Goop" which is like a super thick contact adhesive: rubbery and flexible yet tenacious.

After a few more minutes I saw a similar weepage from a second pump. 

I tried to attempt the same repair but broke the pump instead.





The plastic alphacool uses is thin and brittle. For instance you can easily deform the housing, by pressing on the outlet, enough for water to leak by the o-ring. 

I am not impressed by the build quality or choice of compounds and materials in these pumps. They are very powerful...but 2 out of 3 pumps leaking is terrible...

I have to question why Alphacool would design a pump with problematic areas like metal to plastic fittings with no compression or O-ring to seal them?

This makes the pump impossible to service without breaking it. Simply using a flexible adhesive would make more sense...or an Oring.

Needless to say this  project is on hold until I can decide whether I am using RMAed pumps or simply going to a different pump style altogether...


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## MKmods (Apr 25, 2008)

sorry about the pump quality, the Liang DDC with the Petras tops look like they will fit without a lot of modification.
(as long as you have an extra $300 laying around)

Thanks for the heads up on the pumps, If someone with your skills had trouble with the pumps imagine how someone just beginning could mess up.


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## CyberDruid (Apr 25, 2008)

I have had good results with the D-5 MCP655 pumps.  My first pump (still in service) was the AquaXtreme 50Z DC-12...a great pump. I have had mixed results with the DB-1 had two of them fail after prolonged cold weather service (-12C for weeks). I never put much stock in the DDC pumps. I have an MCP 355...but just have not tried it.

This just showed me that numbers are not everything. I would rather have lower numbers and a totally reliable pump like the MCP 655.

I have a pair of Iwaki RD 30 Pumps on hand so I might switch up from a triple loop to a single loop with an Iwaki befroe the rads and after the rads...but the noise....sigh...I would have to redesign the enclosure and make it larger to properly dampen the pumps...


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## MKmods (Apr 25, 2008)

LOL, if you dont like the them can I have the 355?


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## CyberDruid (Apr 25, 2008)

It's 3/8....


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## MKmods (Apr 25, 2008)

CyberDruid said:


> It's 3/8....


Throw one of these on and VOILA! (any size and improved flow)
http://www.petrastechshop.com/peddcudeddcp.html
Here is the Koolance version (more options but quite a bit heavier)
http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=466

or for the pumps you like try one of these
http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=559


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## CyberDruid (Apr 25, 2008)

Alu in my loop would keep me from getting a good night's rest.

Check out how quiet the fans are 


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hfVbTKOWFe8


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## philbrown23 (Apr 25, 2008)

holsy shit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! to bad about the pumps though cuz this setup is frikin nuts! I wish I was that creative!


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## intel igent (Apr 26, 2008)

thats a real bummer about the pumps Cyber, hope they get it all sorted out and ship ya a couple replacements seeing as they were defective to begin with.

although that would be a killer setup, series IWAKI's and 3 120.3's  (wishfull thinking cuz i know youre wanting silent performance)

love all the pix and the youtubage


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## CyberDruid (Apr 26, 2008)

Thanks for tghe input there. Well the Alphacools are far from silent. In fact they have a distinct growl...different than the hydraulic sound of the Iwaki but quite loud.

So what difference would it make except that one way the loops are seperate so if I am not using the rad full capacity it's sort of wasted...in series I know that I am getting it all.

Here's a question for ya

Which would yield the best result. Dasiy Chaining the rads with an Iwaki befor and Iwaki after or making a simple manifold that splits the flow from the Iwaki to three and ditto on the return.

It seems to me that if I Daisy chain them the plumbing is simpler but the final rad might not be doing much cooling...if I use a manifold in and out then each rad is getting the same temp water and might not be able to drop it quite as low as three rads. 

What do you think?


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## intel igent (Apr 26, 2008)

i would *assume* it would be better to make a manifold, split the out of the first IWAKI to feed the three rads, then have another manifold taking the three outs of the rads and feeding back into the second IWAKI and out into the loop. i would use copper pipe for this.

pressure and flow are of no concern with those two pumps

the keyword here in my post is *assume* i could be wrong  but thats what id do


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## CyberDruid (Apr 27, 2008)

Well here's what I have been up to...

I reworked the rig so the rads are daisy chained. Right now I have a single IwakiRD30 installed and after I take a quick break I will decomission the *Monolith* Xtreme Cooler so I can rob it of parts....

Like a Dumbass I managed to short out my 24V PSU and it's a goner...but luckily I have another handy.

So I was thinking of doing this:

EK res> EK Res> 1st Iwaki>Rad>Rad>2nd Iwaki>rad>3-way metering manifold

My reasoning for dual reservoirs is to make sure the Iwaki always starts with a full charge...the EK reservoirs are pretty low volume. Plus it gives me more options.




















































I decoupled the pump as best I could and the lexan that it is mounted to is also decoupled somewhat with foam tape. I won't know how well that worked till I get the other PSU installed.

I put in a drain line this time and now I guess it's time to power down and tear the old cooler apart to cannabalize it.


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## CyberDruid (Apr 27, 2008)

Well I worked until about 2AM and got the unit completed





Here I have the second Iwaki mounted





I used a balance tube but it might have to go.





loop goes like this res1>res2>pump1>rad1>rad2>pump2>rad3>out to PC>back to res1





I used two reservoirs llinked together to try and minimize cavitation..but the balance tube is introducing a ton of air...as the vids will show.





Pumps each have their own switch so I can try out some stuff.





Should probably make a shield for the PSUs in case of leaks..




















The fans were actually giving me a chill last night 




































Too much fun


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## intel igent (Apr 28, 2008)

man Cyber you really went to town on that thing! is it in service?


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## CyberDruid (Apr 28, 2008)

intel igent said:


> man Cyber you really went to town on that thing! is it in service?



yep. Brought the temps down about 9C. Once I got it lined in Sonex it was almost inaudible. Really pleased with the reults. And it makes a good printer stand


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## CyberDruid (Apr 28, 2008)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apFQMAFle4Q
First of a series


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## intel igent (Apr 28, 2008)

CyberDruid said:


> yep. Brought the temps down about 9C. Once I got it lined in Sonex it was almost inaudible. Really pleased with the reults. And it makes a good printer stand



SWEET!  

thnx for the youtubage  the balance tube is cool! 

what exactly is this all cooling? 9 w/b's  2xCPU, 2xGFX, n/b, s/b......... what am i missing?


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## sneekypeet (Apr 28, 2008)

intel igent said:


> SWEET!
> 
> thnx for the youtubage
> 
> what exactly is this all cooling? 9 w/b's  2xCPU, 2xGFX, n/b, s/b......... what am i missing?



HDD's and ram if he wants to


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## CyberDruid (Apr 28, 2008)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eefm99rvrdU

Above vid link after second pump is fitted...

2 CPU WB, MCH, SB, 2 Dual GPU WBs.


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## CyberDruid (Apr 28, 2008)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qybjAF1747A

One more to go..and in the one to follow this you will see the domesticated beast hard at work..silent and diligent.


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## intel igent (Apr 28, 2008)

CyberDruid said:


> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eefm99rvrdU
> 
> Above vid link after second pump is fitted...
> 
> 2 CPU WB, MCH, SB, 2 Dual GPU WBs.



i thought it was cooling 9 w/b? 

it sounds quiter than my rig, but i dont care about noise  maybe on the next one 

could you not make some sort of diffuser to reduce the aeration/cavitation?

CyberDruid =


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## sneekypeet (Apr 28, 2008)

CD I can really appriciate the craftsmanship and time on this, but all that air in the loop is gonna do bad things for the temps isnt it?

I thought the whole point was to have no air in the loop itself, your loop is forcing air right to the block...it can be plainly seen in the vid in post #44.

Maybe a T-line in the top of the loop to allow a place to fill the top "balance" tube as well?


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## intel igent (Apr 28, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> CD I can really appriciate the craftsmanship and time on this, but all that air in the loop is gonna do bad things for the temps isnt it?
> 
> I thought the whole point was to have no air in the loop itself, your loop is forcing air right to the block...it can be plainly seen in the vid in post #44.



cant be that bad for temps seeing as he dropped ~10c, although they might be better without the air 

i was thinking more of the gurgling sounds. fans + pumps = cool! aeration/cavitation = not cool


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## sneekypeet (Apr 28, 2008)

yeah but my setup it 10*C load less than air, whats the comparison, to a different water loop?

It wasnt ment as a slam, I figure temps could only get better as air sucks to transfer heat!


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## intel igent (Apr 28, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> whats the comparison, to a different water loop?



yes his previous loop


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## panchoman (Apr 28, 2008)

that waterspout is so sick.. it goes through the whole freaking balance tube!


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## CyberDruid (Apr 28, 2008)

I was almost afraid to post picks of the work in progress. I eliminated the balance line. The cavitaition, siphoning, cyclonic action and aeration all ceased at that point. I was enjoyiung the waterfalol effect in the shop...it's a great demo of the low pressure zone at the pump inlet...but as you pointed out air and water do not mix in PC cooling...

This morning I removed the balance line and fitted a short piece of tube onto a barb to allow for the air in the system to perc out. After about an hour a great deal of the air had passed and the snapping crashing and gurgling were gone.

And this is the way loops are with no restriction...if you take a D-5 and simply loop it thourgh a reservoir you are going to see so extreme turbidity. But once a "load" is placed on the dynamic it settles down appreciably.

Here is the way the rig looks installed with Sonex, no balance tube, fans on high, bled out after 5 hours.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=568CjqJfbMU

BTW what I am compariong this too is in a vid I am uploading: a PA 120.3/ Bonnie Core IwakiRD30 set up. I had 6 Panaflo 86.5CFM fans in Push Pull on the PA120.3 and they were one source of noise. ALso the way I mounted the Iwaki generated some unpleasant noises as well. The described set up ran about 9 months 99% of the time. I only shutdown a couple of times to rework stuff on the rig. It kept my Xeons at arounf 58C underload according to real temp (68C according to COre Temp) and now my hottest core is 48C in Real Temp and my coolest core is 35C. This is with fans on low. Ambient air temp for the rad is 23.9C. That's 25C Delta for 100% load (Folding)


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## sneekypeet (Apr 28, 2008)

Thaks for the clearification Cyber.

The balance tube is/was an excellent demonstration tool!


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## CyberDruid (Apr 28, 2008)

Well I was using it to fill the rig. The way I fill an external cooler is through the inlet outlet tubes with the rig on it's face so the rad inlet outlets are pointed to sky.

This way all the air comes out. But I was getting a vapor lock between the reservoirs so I added a balance tube.

I left it one to top off the reservoirs after fitting a Stoprm WB to test the loop. Well that's when I saw the siphoning waterfall..I thought: how cool is that.

So I made several vids of it and then started wondering how come the loop was not bleeding out...heh. I mean you can see the stream of bubbles so it's pretty obvious what's going on.

However with the reservoirs topped off and a barb and tube one one of them it bled out pretty fast...topok about 5 hours to stop having to fill the tube. I have not seen a change in the fluid level fro a couple of hours so whatever air is in there is coming out in tiny bubbles now.


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## CyberDruid (Apr 28, 2008)




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## intel igent (Apr 30, 2008)

nice setup CyberDruid 

you had just enough room behind the desk to stuff that box


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## chron (Aug 20, 2008)

thats nuts. great work


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## Whilhelm (Aug 21, 2008)

Wow that is some pretty nice work, CyberDruid. 

Is that what you have cooling the Skulltrail Quadfire rig?


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## CyberDruid (Aug 21, 2008)

yep

It runs 24/7. (I Crunch for WCG BOINC)

The filter is mandatory.


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