# What Wattage do I Need for Ryzen 3700x and GTX 1080 Ti?



## avrona (Jun 3, 2019)

What wattage psu should I get for a Ryzen 3700x, a GTX 1080 Ti, 2 hard drives, 1 SATA cable SSD, 1 optical drive, 2x8gb ddr4 RAM sticks, and a Sound Blaster Z sound card? Though I am already running an fx-8350 with that same graphics card, storage and sound card with a 550w psu and that doesn't seem to have any issues, yet I've seen some people suggest I need a 650w instead, even though ryzen will use far less power than my current processor.


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## trog100 (Jun 3, 2019)

most people suggest more than you really need.. what you already have will likely be perfectly okay..

trog


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## avrona (Jun 3, 2019)

trog100 said:


> most people suggest more than you really need.. what you already have will likely be perfectly okay..
> 
> trog


True it may be ok from a wattage perspective, but the main reason people have been suggesting I should upgrade is because my current one doesn't have the 2 8 pins a 1080 ti requires, though I've been running it like that since October and nothing bad happened.


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## TheLostSwede (Jun 3, 2019)

Considering the Ryzen processors have a lower TDP and most likely use less power...
The motherboard might use a tad more, but you should be fine with what you have.

I presume you're using some other kind of adapters with your GPU? From molex or SATA power connectors.

Also, how old is the PSU and what brand/model?


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## avrona (Jun 3, 2019)

TheLostSwede said:


> Considering the Ryzen processors have a lower TDP and most likely use less power...
> The motherboard might use a tad more, but you should be fine with what you have.
> 
> I presume you're using some other kind of adapters with your GPU? From molex or SATA power connectors.
> ...


For my GPU, I have the 1 8 pin I have plugged in, and for the other one it requires, the card came with a 2 6 pin to 1 8 pin adapter, however since the PSU only has 1 6 pin, only one is plugged into the adapter, and it has to be into a specific one of the 2 6 pin inputs also, as if it's in the other one it just doesn't even want to power on and just says it isn't powered. My current PSU is an XFX TS550 Bronze, which I've been using since I got this pre-built in late 2013.


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## TheLostSwede (Jun 3, 2019)

Might be time to upgrade then, but 600W-ish should be more than plenty. Power supplies age and when they go, they go and can take other things with them.
Would be a shame to build a new system and then have the PSU take out the board. It shouldn't happen, but it can happen.


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## EarthDog (Jun 3, 2019)

avrona said:


> What wattage psu should I get for a Ryzen 3700x, a GTX 1080 Ti, 2 hard drives, 1 SATA cable SSD, 1 optical drive, 2x8gb ddr4 RAM sticks, and a Sound Blaster Z sound card? Though I am already running an fx-8350 with that same graphics card, storage and sound card with a 550w psu and that doesn't seem to have any issues, yet I've seen some people suggest I need a 650w instead, even though ryzen will use far less power than my current processor.


Knowledge is power.......Ryzen processors use LESS power than your current CPU (at sotck at least), bud! 

We went over power use in one of your other threads too IIRC... your GPU is 250W + any OC (which is limited by the power limit). If you go Ryzen 3000 it will use less power than your current CPU. Assuming your PSU is still working 100% and outputting its nameplate power, 550W will be fine.

My sugestion is to try it and see. I would bet my life it works at all stock and likely with some overclocking too... that said, a 650W unit is a perfect fit for any single GPU and CPU system with ambient temp cooling and overclocking both the CPU and GPU.


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## TheLostSwede (Jun 3, 2019)

Just stressed my system a bit (see system specs) and I only managed to pull a bit over 400W. You graphics card would draw a bit more power, but I'm guessing the new Ryzen processors won't draw much more than mine.
I should mention that I didn't pay for my current PSU and it's why I'm using it, not because it was something I picked out because I thought I would need it.


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## phanbuey (Jun 3, 2019)

an OC'd 1080TI will draw  300W of power at +120% in game.  A heavily OC'd ryzen probably caps around 120-150W in an extreme scenario so you're still good.

550W is fine as long as it's a quality PSU.  Anything that works for your system now will work for a ryzen build


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## mstenholm (Jun 3, 2019)

I didn't pay attention to the lower tier of X570 boards but the better ones have two 8 pin ESP connections. Just something to consider when you hit buy. I'm sure that there will be lower end versions of the 500 chip but you seem to be in a hurry. The thought of not buying a x570 is so far of my mind that I almost hit Post reply before this last line and a half was added


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## John Naylor (Jun 3, 2019)

Recognizing the difference between "need" and 'recommended"









						MSI GTX 1080 Ti GAMING X Review
					

With the reference boards being reviewed, the AIB partners from Nvidia now have their custom boards ready. In this article we'll look at the fastest graphics card your money can get you, the Nvidia G... Hardware Setup | Power Consumption




					www.guru3d.com
				






> Here is Guru3D's power supply recommendation:
> 
> *Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 Ti  - *On your average system the card requires you to have a 600~650 Watts power supply unit.
> If you are going to overclock your GPU or processor, then we do recommend you purchase something with some more stamina.



So if buying new, I'd go with a 650.  keep in mind however that a PSU is most efficient at 50% load and that the closer you get to full rated power, voltage stability and power quality typically start to degrade anmd with that so does OC ability.  With a 550 watter, I think you will get by but I certainly would go light on the overclocking


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## TheLostSwede (Jun 3, 2019)

John Naylor said:


> So if buying new, I'd go with a 650.  keep in mind however that a PSU is most efficient at 50% load and that the closer you get to full rated power, voltage stability and power quality typically start to degrade anmd with that so does OC ability.  With a 550 watter, I think you will get by but I certainly would go light on the overclocking



You might want to look at some more modern PSUs and maybe some higher quality brands if that's your concern. Is a 2-3% performance drop in efficiency really going to matter when your'e pulling 600W?


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## Xaser04 (Jun 3, 2019)

Given the age of the PSU I would most likely upgrade to a decent 600+ W PSU. 

Your current PSU will probably be fine (it shoudl be fine in raw power terms) but ensuring you have all of the correct cables and for general piece of mind I would look to upgrade it.


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## avrona (Jun 3, 2019)

The PSU I was looking into buying is a Corsair CX550, will that be ok for the X570 board, the CPU, GPU, etc.? Or are there maybe some better, or preferably cheaper alternatives?


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## EarthDog (Jun 3, 2019)

Yikes...

CX550 would be a bottom of the barrel serviceable PSU. You don't want to go any cheaper. My advice to you is to save for a proper PSU better than 'serviceable' quality you suggested. There is a PSU list here which shows good/bad PSUs... go find it and give it a read.



Xaser04 said:


> Given the age of the PSU I would most likely upgrade to a decent 600+ W PSU.


5 years old? We trash PSUs at 5 years? 


TheLostSwede said:


> You might want to look at some more modern PSUs and maybe some higher quality brands if that's your concern. Is a 2-3% performance drop in efficiency really going to matter when your'e pulling 600W?


Spot on... Mr. Naylor should take a look at a PSU efficiency curve and see if that is remotely worth it (it isn't.. we'll save you some time ).


John Naylor said:


> typically start to degrade anmd with that so does OC ability.


Yes, but not enough to warrant a mention for anyone at TPU. Again, take a look at some jonnyguru reviews and look at the difference.


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## Deleted member 24505 (Jun 3, 2019)

Just get a 1200 and be done with it, that seems to be the trend now.  Joking aside. Imo 550 should be fine, but maybe a 650 to be on the safe side.



John Naylor said:


> the closer you get to full rated power, voltage stability and power quality typically start to degrade anmd with that so does OC ability


Sorry if I offend you, but that is just wrong. unless you are talking about a 20yr old 350 watt generic PSU


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## dgianstefani (Jun 3, 2019)

Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium 650w/600w fanless.

Will take about 20w of waste heat out of your system moving from a bronze to a 94% efficiency titanium. Plus the power delivery will be cleaner and more stable.


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## John Naylor (Jun 4, 2019)

TheLostSwede said:


> You might want to look at some more modern PSUs and maybe some higher quality brands if that's your concern. Is a 2-3% performance drop in efficiency really going to matter when your'e pulling 600W?




In been looking and reading about PSUs for over 25 years and the efficiency is the least of my concerns.  Let me point out that I made no reference to Bronze, Silver Gold, Platinum ratings which should, other than the actual wording in the post,indicate that efficiency is a secondary consideration.    When you drive your car, is the rpm gauge about half way to the "red line" or is pushed right up on the edge.   Would it be wise to drive around all day long with that gauge arrow right up at the line ?

When you push towards the rated limit of a PSU, not only do you drop in efficiency, you create more heat,  A silver rated PSUs drop from 88% to 85% is exactly what you said ... 2-3% no big deal.  But the wattage @ the wall on a 500 watt load goes from 568 to 588.  That's an increase in heat of 30%. 

And while more heat does have a negative effect on electrical performance, much more important is how close are you coming  to that "red line" ...  are you passing it with peak spikes.     I can see the meter we use to monitor voltage, amps, wattage "at the wall" just under and behind the monitor.   But it doesn't show the power spikes.     The closer you get to 100% of rated load ... aka "the red line", **as was my point previously**, the greater the typical voltage instability and greater the electrical noise.   So you are sitting there with a xxx watt power supply and it works fine ... your 4.8 GHz OC is stable as can be.   Now, when ya built ya box, you chose a PSU with a bit of headroom so when you upgrade to a 100 watt bigger GPU, you figure no problem. 

But with the new card installed, your PSU is pushed up closer to  ... but still below it's rated power.  So it should be fine as the voltage stability is still way below the ATX 5% limit.  But the ATX standard does not guarantee your overclock.   With the extra voltage instability, your component VRMS have to work a bit harder to maintain a stable OC and without the greater noise / and voltage stability , it may not handle your old 4.8 OC ...    I'm not saying it happens every time but I get enough builds back on the test bench after users change GPUs to know that it matters.  Sometimes tweaking up the voltage does enough to make it stable again, sometimes I have to drop 1 multiplier.


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## oxrufiioxo (Jun 4, 2019)

My vote is if you're not gonna invest in a high quality 650-750w unit just stick with what you have till it dies.

At the very least look at something like the Corsair RM series, Seasonic focus series, or the EVGA G1+/G3/GQ line If you're dead set on upgrading.


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## MrGenius (Jun 4, 2019)

I can't believe I'm about to even sort of agree with John Naylor on something. But what he's saying with car analogy is pretty much true as it can be. In my experience. Running a PSU maxxed out is stupid, and can/will lead to an early death. Just like it does with pretty much anything, pushing it as hard as it will go for extended periods of time is a good way to break it. Including a PSU.

That said, and going off my personal experience as a professional PSU executioner, 750W is the bare minimum I would ever use for anything. And I barely feel safe with 1000W in my gaming rig(3770K @ 5.0GHz + max OC Vega 64).

So 1000W+ is what I'd be running with it. Since, so far, that's the only PSU I haven't had troubles with...or flat out killed.


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## Xzibit (Jun 4, 2019)

mstenholm said:


> I didn't pay attention to the lower tier of X570 boards but the better ones have two 8 pin ESP connections. Just something to consider when you hit buy. I'm sure that there will be lower end versions of the 500 chip but you seem to be in a hurry. The thought of not buying a x570 is so far of my mind that I almost hit Post reply before this last line and a half was added



^This 

Most of the X570 boards have a 8+8 or 8+4 CPU connectors.  You'll have to figure out if the PSU you want to get comes with 2 CPU 8/4-pin connectors.


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## Metroid (Jun 4, 2019)

buy a good top tier 850w psu with 90+ efficiency, the evga g3 is perfect for your needs, that is what you need. 3700x 200 watts if max overclocked, gtx 1080ti 300 watts if max overclocked.

Remember that trolls will say to you to buy a psu close to your needs, do not do that, a psu will be most efficient at 50% usage, so a 850w is perfect for any 400 to 500 watts usage.

I have psu's that are 10 years old plus working. PSU rule, do not ever use less than its 20% rate and do not ever use more than its 80% rate. So 850 watts means, do not ever use less than 170 watts with it and do not ever use more than 680 watts with it. You can extrapolate a bit if they are top tier psus.


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## EarthDog (Jun 4, 2019)

Metroid said:


> buy a good top tier 850w psu with 90+ efficiency, the evga g3 is perfect for your needs, that is what you need. 3700x 200 watts if max overclocked, gtx 1080ti 300 watts if max overclocked.
> 
> Remember that trolls will say to you to buy a psu close to your needs, do not do that, a psu will be most efficient at 50% usage, so a 850w is perfect for any 400 to 500 watts usage.


Waste your own money like that man...50% use just to be efficient... and spend $30 more dollars than you have to for no legitimate reason? Sign me up!


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## Metroid (Jun 4, 2019)

EarthDog said:


> Waste your own money like that man...50% use just to be efficient... and spend $30 more dollars than you have to for no legitimate reason? Sign me up!



Well the money spent on a top tier expensive psu pays itself on electricity during the years with higher efficiency plus higher warranty plus as better components hardly will break even after 10 years warranty expires, plus safety, plus longevity of your components. You just can't go wrong with top tier psu's and use 50% or so for the best efficiency.


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## EarthDog (Jun 4, 2019)

Metroid said:


> Well the money spent on a top tier expensive psu _pays itself on electricity during the years with higher efficiency_


It doesn't. Do the math.

I agree with a top tier PSU, but to pay an additional premium of buying a unit that much oversized, it won't make it up over its lifetime unless you some distributed project 24/7 for years. I mean if you are thinking HEDT and overclocking the tar out of it, sure... but for mainstream single card single CPU for an average user.....I implore you to do the math. The difference between pulling say 400W and 408W  by being in the 50% sweet spot or somewhere outside of it, the difference in efficiency/power (2% say)... yields a couple bucks /year.

Here are two top notch PSUs... Not going by the sale price, you are looking at difference of $50 from the 650W most recommended versus an 850W unit to be in that 50% range. 8W at 24/7/365 at 10c /kwh = 2 cents per day = $7.30 per year or around 7 years to break even... running 24/7/365 and a 400W load. If use your PC for 8 hours a day...that is $2.43 per year or around 20 years to break even. (this is assuming my math is right)... it is late, but feel free to run the numbers yourself.

So, to each their own of course, but that is the math for buying a PSU just as you described. It just doesn't add up as you say without some fringe use cases at best. A 650W system will be just as safe, with the same 10 year warranty, plus 'safety' (huh?), and longevity of the components.


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## TheLostSwede (Jun 4, 2019)

John Naylor said:


> In been looking and reading about PSUs for over 25 years and...



And you have a lot of flawed knowledge by the look of it. Don't spread bad information, it's not helpful for anyone.
There's a lot of flawed information on the internet as well and reading about things is only half of it.
I actually used to do PSU group tests, admittedly many moons ago, but I was one of the first people doing them. (As a side note, a competing publication at the time gave an award to a PSU that was 99% efficient, turns out it was the PFC number they thought was power efficiency).
Things have improved a lot since then and modern PSUs works quite different from what they did some years ago.
Efficiency curves are getting flatter and flatter and even a decent mid-range PSU is vastly better than a five year old high-end PSU today.
Back in the days I had PSUs that damaged the test equipment, PSUs that would vibrate around the table at full load (thanks to passive PFC) and all sorts of weird shit.
You never hear of this in reviews these days. In fact, a good PSU is under-rated, i.e. it can do 700W, but is only sold as a 650W unit, as this is how the manufacturer can give a 10 year warranty and not have to worry about too many returns.

I don't doubt you know a lot about building PCs and what not, but I think you've been reading some wrong info on PSUs, or you're using some sub-par hardware.


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## londiste (Jun 4, 2019)

- GTX1080Ti (including your model) has TDP set at 250W. At stock this is where it is at mostly. With OC, it might go to 300W, anything above you are going too far.
- Ryzen 7 3700X has TDP of 105W, since these are not out yet, no reviews and consumer experience, nobody has any idea what it actually consumes, much less with OC.
- Rest of the stuff should consume 50-60W at worst.

At stock: 250+105+60 = 415. Your 550W will do fine.
OC depends on how far you want to push things.

There are things to be said about efficiency if you want a quiet machine. The better the efficiency, less heat gets created, less airflow is required to cool it down and that means slower fan. 650-700W PSU would have its peak efficiency spot at around what your machine usually consumes under load. There is minor effect for PSU longevity when running it at lower end of its power output range but this is honestly negligible for normal use cases.


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## Metroid (Jun 4, 2019)

EarthDog said:


> It doesn't. Do the math.
> 
> I agree with a top tier PSU, but to pay an additional premium of buying a unit that much oversized, it won't make it up over its lifetime unless you some distributed project 24/7 for years. I mean if you are thinking HEDT and overclocking the tar out of it, sure... but for mainstream single card single CPU for an average user.....I implore you to do the math. The difference between pulling say 400W and 408W  by being in the 50% sweet spot or somewhere outside of it, the difference in efficiency/power (2% say)... yields a couple bucks /year.
> 
> ...




Okay lets do the math based on reviews and price of 2 products, they are top tier and yet similar and one of most used psu series  around the world, lets compare and see if you are right.



			https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-RM850x-Certified-Modular-Supply/dp/B079H5WNXN/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=RM850x&qid=1559628508&s=gateway&sr=8-1
		






						Amazon.com: CORSAIR RMX Series, RM550x, 550 Watt, 80+ Gold Certified, Fully Modular Power Supply: Computers & Accessories
					

Buy CORSAIR RMX Series, RM550x, 550 Watt, 80+ Gold Certified, Fully Modular Power Supply: Everything Else - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



					www.amazon.com
				




So we have 2, we are not using lower than 550 watts as usually top tier start at 550w with this series, I wanted to use a 430 and a 850 watts, same series and brand but there is not, so we have to use the 550w.

550w = $110
850w = $134, so the difference in price is $24

Now lets take reviews of both and see 500 watts in action x efficiency of both

550w at 100%,

*38.425A**9.036A**9.054A**3.041A*549.6888.00%81527.647.27 °C0.996









						Corsair RM550x Power Supply Review
					

The lowest-capacity unit Corsair's RMx line outputs up to 550W and is 80 PLUS Gold-certified. It features fully modular cabling, offers great performance and is nearly silent throughout its operating range, too.




					www.tomshardware.com
				




850w at


*37.033A**5.975A**5.999A**2.006A*509.68090.322%610 RPM10.2 dB(A)41.59°C0.99112.148V5.023V3.299V4.985V564.29253.36°C115.08V









						Corsair RM850x V2 PSU Review: Smaller And Quieter!
					

Corsair upgraded its best-selling line RMx family with new models featuring smaller dimensions and quieter operation. And despite limited PCB space, performance remains similar from one generation to the next.




					www.tomshardware.co.uk
				




So we have a 2% efficiency, 90%x88%, now we calculate your pc stays 10 hours per day gaming average, some people stay more some people stay less,  per hour is 550w x 10 = 5500 watts per day, 5.5 x 0.10 per kwh = 55 cents per day x 367 days per year = 200 usd per year, 2% of it? 4 usd per year, so it will pay off x a 550w in 6 years. Warranty is 10 years of both, so which one would be better to buy? I would get the 850 and use it at 50%, would be better than the 550 watts for various reasons.

Also pay attention, the computer stays more idle than gaming right? so lets see efficiency when is at idle or using little wattage, 10% or so.

550w,

*2.739A**1.994A**1.990A**1.001A*54.7783.99%0048.04 °C0.944

850w,

*5.186A**1.984A**1.991A**0.996A*84.77386.891%0 RPM<6.0 dB(A)48.80°C0.980

Here we see 3% advantage of the 850w.

I say the minimum you will spend with a higher wattage psu and it depends of many factors like usage and so on but overall, in  this example, a 850w psu at 50% was more economical than the 550w at 100% and looking at this example, I say every year you will save a minimum of 5 usd.

I also want to point out that if a 550w was compared to a 1100 watts I would stand by you because after 850watts, psu's price increase a lot, I myself say that the best overall psu to get is a 850 watts overall because that is the price it stands in the middle of performance x cost.


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## avrona (Jun 4, 2019)

So seeing how I just haven't had the money to buy anything amazing, I was going to settle for just something good or average, was looking into the CX550. However I managed to find a Be Quiet System Power 9 600W for £3 cheaper than the cheapest CX550 I could find, so that's both more wattage, more money left for the rest of the upgrade, and at least unlike my current PSU it finally has at least 2 8 pin power connectors for the GPU, which my current one is missing and is the main reason I wanted to upgrade, though I've had my GPU running with only 18 pin since October and nothing bad happen, I have been seeing many people say it's a bad idea. Also from what I've read many already existing boards have 2 EPS, you always just need one though unless you are planning on OCing or something like that, so it seems fine I bought a PSU with only 1 EPS. So did I make a good choice then?


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## Vayra86 (Jun 4, 2019)

For noise alone I recommend oversized PSUs. Always. PSU fans can be a major nuisance.

I run 750W which is way overkill, but I also ONLY hear the fan rev up on hot summer days at full system stress. All other times, its fully idle. I'm also ready for any sort of upgrade: additional GPU, lots of storage, or a transplant into a much heavier rig. High wattage also gets around the 'missing cable/connector' problem quite easily.

In other words, overkill PSU = money well spent. Do you need to? Nope. Is it worth doing? Absolutely for anyone doing semi-frequent upgrades. We're talking about 10-15 bucks _at most_ for the same quality PSU getting another 100-150W. Oh, don't forget the 5-7 or 10 year warranty  1.5 EUR per year for more silence, I'll take it.

If you have to do the math on a PSU wattage, you're doing it wrong!


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## oxrufiioxo (Jun 4, 2019)

avrona said:


> So seeing how I just haven't had the money to buy anything amazing, I was going to settle for just something good or average, was looking into the CX550. However I managed to find a Be Quiet System Power 9 600W for £3 cheaper than the cheapest CX550 I could find, so that's both more wattage, more money left for the rest of the upgrade, and at least unlike my current PSU it finally has at least 2 8 pin power connectors for the GPU, which my current one is missing and is the main reason I wanted to upgrade, though I've had my GPU running with only 18 pin since October and nothing bad happen, I have been seeing many people say it's a bad idea. Also from what I've read many already existing boards have 2 EPS, you always just need one though unless you are planning on OCing or something like that, so it seems fine I bought a PSU with only 1 EPS. So did I make a good choice then?




Looks like a pretty mediocre power supply probably worse than the Corsair honestly as the Corsair is at least has a single 12v rail.

      From Techspot Cons.

Use of cheap capacitors
Average voltage regulation and AC ripple suppression, Efficiency drops off at full load (at elevated operating temperature), Use of Teapo 85°C electrolytic capacitor, 3Year warranty
Cross Load performance, Performance of the 3.3V rail in Transient Tests, Power Good signal drops late, High inrush current, Low quality bulk cap, Long component leads, Single EPS connector, Power distribution, 5VSB efficiency
Only a three-year warranty


on the plus side it has a good fan.


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## avrona (Jun 4, 2019)

Vayra86 said:


> For noise alone I recommend oversized PSUs. Always. PSU fans can be a major nuisance.
> 
> I run 750W which is way overkill, but I also ONLY hear the fan rev up on hot summer days at full system stress. All other times, its fully idle. I'm also ready for any sort of upgrade: additional GPU, lots of storage, or a transplant into a much heavier rig. High wattage also gets around the 'missing cable/connector' problem quite easily.
> 
> ...


Issue is is that I don't even have that kind of money at all on my account. I was already not even planning on doing the PSU with the rest of the upgrade, as it seemed I would literally not even have enough money for the CPU, mobo, RAM, NVME, and PSU, and like many people pointed out it's probably not a good idea to run  a 2 8 pin card on a PSU with only 1 8 pin.


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## Vayra86 (Jun 4, 2019)

Metroid said:


> 550w at 100%,
> 
> *38.425A**9.036A**9.054A**3.041A*549.6888.00%81527.6*47.27 °C*0.996
> 
> ...



Minor efficiency differences... but look at that massive temp gap. That's your difference between passive and active right there.



avrona said:


> Issue is is that I don't even have that kind of money at all on my account. I was already not even planning on doing the PSU with the rest of the upgrade, as it seemed I would literally not even have enough money for the CPU, mobo, RAM, NVME, and PSU, and like many people pointed out it's probably not a good idea to run  a 2 8 pin card on a PSU with only 1 8 pin.



Drop the NVME then and get storage at a good $/GB ratio instead (HDD or SATA SSD for things that need to be fast/responsive)

'No money' when doing a PC upgrade... not buying that. You need to adjust priorities then or save some more  OR live with compromises. We've already established that 550W is good for another while, so I'd recommend that for now. Don't get another PSU that with the next upgrade will make you have the same dilemma. PSU can easily last 2 builds.


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## londiste (Jun 4, 2019)

avrona said:


> Issue is is that I don't even have that kind of money at all on my account. I was already not even planning on doing the PSU with the rest of the upgrade, as it seemed I would literally not even have enough money for the CPU, mobo, RAM, NVME, and PSU, and like many people pointed out it's probably not a good idea to run  a 2 8 pin card on a PSU with only 1 8 pin.


You do not need a PSU upgrade. Going for a similar quality 600W PSU is a waste of money.
I also second to @Vayra86 - when money is tight, NVMe is definitely not worth it. Nice to have but you will rarely feel the speed difference compared to SATA SSD (whether in 2.5" or M.2 form factor).


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## avrona (Jun 4, 2019)

Vayra86 said:


> Minor efficiency differences... but look at that massive temp gap. That's your difference between passive and active right there.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Well I simply have to upgrade it with almost no money left over, I'm already taking my compromises like not upgrading my PSU earlier despite it apparently being dangerous to run a GPU with only 1 8 pin, and I haven't upgraded my boot drive either. And since I will have an m.2 port I may as well use it and get an NVME. Plus I doubt I will be upgrading again for years and years to come.



londiste said:


> You do not need a PSU upgrade. Going for a similar quality 600W PSU is a waste of money.
> I also second to @Vayra86 - when money is tight, NVMe is definitely not worth it. Nice to have but you will rarely feel the speed difference compared to SATA SSD (whether in 2.5" or M.2 form factor).


Again, it's now about wattage or quality for the PSU, but it just doesn't even have the 2 8 pins my graphics card needs, and it's been running like that since October. Plus like I said in another post, now that I will finally have an m.2 port, I may as well go for an NVME for my next main drive.


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## Vayra86 (Jun 4, 2019)

avrona said:


> Well I simply have to upgrade it with almost no money left over, I'm already taking my compromises like not upgrading my PSU earlier despite it apparently being dangerous to run a GPU with only 1 8 pin, and I haven't upgraded my boot drive either. And since I will have an m.2 port I may as well use it and get an NVME. Plus I doubt I will be upgrading again for years and years to come.
> 
> 
> Again, it's now about wattage or quality for the PSU, but it just doesn't even have the 2 8 pins my graphics card needs, and it's been running like that since October. Plus like I said in another post, now that I will finally have an m.2 port, I may as well go for an NVME for my next main drive.



Ehhh OK.

So you must upgrade NVME because your board has a slot for it, even when money is tight? Does. Not. Compute.

I'll tell you, I have a board with M2 slots as well, and not a single one is populated, but I do have 3 SSDs hanging round the back of the board over SATA. Performance lost in normal use cases? Zero.

Hate to say this (well, I don't...) but I think I know why you have a money problem if you use it like this.


----------



## EarthDog (Jun 4, 2019)

Metroid said:


> Okay lets do the math based on reviews and price of 2 products, they are top tier and yet similar and one of most used psu series  around the world, lets compare and see if you are right.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Its funny how suddenly a top tier psu turns into the corsair RM series...

The price difference, msrp, is $40 between RMx650 and RMx850...$60 if you go 550w of the same model.





						RMx Series™ RM650x 80 PLUS Gold Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
					

CORSAIR RM650x Series PC power supplies deliver 80 PLUS Gold efficient power to your PC, with virtually silent operation, a fully modular cable set, and a seven-year warranty.




					www.corsair.com
				




Anyway, this is useless.... done here. Proper math ftmfw.


----------



## avrona (Jun 4, 2019)

Vayra86 said:


> Ehhh OK.
> 
> So you must upgrade NVME because your board has a slot for it, even when money is tight? Does. Not. Compute.


Well if I have the spare money for it that is. Right now it looks like I will be just on the edge, like literally just a pound or two left on my account, so hopefully if everything goes as planned and I just don't buy a single other thing apart from stuff for the upgrade until the gen 4 NVMEs that release I should be fine.


----------



## Vayra86 (Jun 4, 2019)

avrona said:


> Well if I have the spare money for it that is. Right now it looks like I will be just on the edge, like literally just a pound or two left on my account, so hopefully if everything goes as planned and I just don't buy a single other thing apart from stuff for the upgrade until the gen 4 NVMEs that release I should be fine.



Has it occurred to you that its possible to save the money instead and jump on NVME when gen 4 has landed?

EDIT: scratch that. Misread you.


----------



## avrona (Jun 4, 2019)

Vayra86 said:


> Has it occurred to you that its possible to save the money instead and jump on NVME when gen 4 has landed?


At that point I won't need to anyway though, as I won't have anything else left to buy.


----------



## Metroid (Jun 4, 2019)

Vayra86 said:


> Minor efficiency differences... but look at that massive temp gap. That's your difference between passive and active right there.



2% is very important for me, that pays the psu itself. I keep my computers 24/7. The more you use, the more you save in electricity. If you can buy a titanium, usually 94%, 4% plus for a good price to justify it, is also worth, server psus are generally cheaper than consumer grade but the noise is an issue with them for a consumer oriented place.



EarthDog said:


> bad math homey. Move along.
> 
> Its funny how suddenly a top tier psu turns into the corsair RM series...
> 
> ...



Funny, I gave all the links, have done all the math with given reasons with facts and proof and yet you say is a bad math and the price i linked is also misleading?  I gave the amazon links with prices and those prices are from corsair amazon, if you prefer to buy directly on evga that is your choice and if you ignore the facts it means you ignore the truth.

Also how can you discord the rmx psu line series not top tier 1, component wise they have always been top tier 1.

As you always ignore facts, I will show one more here









						PSU Hierarchy (Jan. 2023) - Power Supply Unit List
					

Here is the ultimate list-based hierarchy of all power supply units. We've ranked them in 8 different tiers so you can easily find out if your PSU is good!




					www.gamingscan.com
				








						PSU Tier List [OLD]
					

Credit to @Starelementpokeand @Energycore for helping out with this long-awaited refresh of the old PSU tier list by Aniallation (who previously went several months without logging in), leaving the old list in need of help. This is simply an update of the list that was flawed in creation by the P...




					linustechtips.com
				




I guess I'm the one done here, with people like you I guess arguments and facts never win because you ignore the truth and facts.


----------



## EarthDog (Jun 4, 2019)

Metroid said:


> 2% is very important for me, that pays the psu itself. I keep my computers 24/7. The more you use, the more you save in electricity. If you can buy a titanium, usually 94%, 4% plus for a good price to justify it, is also worth, server psus are generally cheaper than consumer grade but the noise is an issue with them for a consumer oriented place.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


People like me? Heh.....I'm not getting personal here...

I also never mentioned evga...wtf are talking about?

If you can find the psus that cheap and close together, the ROI is shorter. That said, why not just get what is needed with adequate headroom in the first place instead of having to leave your PC on and use it all day just to wait 7-20 years to get that roi?

I'm not going to go down this rabbit hole of metroid any deeper than weve gone. But saying to run a psu at 50% load is asinine and serves only to hurt you wallet in the short term, with long term only if you use the thing 24/7 well past its warranty unless it's under load 24/7..

You'll also note a properly sized psu will be slightly more efficient on idle than its oversized counterpart with the same efficiency due to how the curves work. 50w of 850w or 50W of 650w moves the chains slightly (and why I ignored idle, honestly).

Make it easy avorna, get a 650w psu and call it day. Dont overspend on BS math of gaming 10 hours a day for the next decade. 

..and, peace out of this thread. Amazing...absolutely stunning.


----------



## Metroid (Jun 4, 2019)

EarthDog said:


> People like me? Heh.....I'm not getting personal here...
> 
> I also never mentioned evga...wtf are talking about?



Where did i say anything that you mentioned evga?

"if you prefer to buy directly on evga that is your choice. "

It was meant to be corsair. I can't believe you complained about that. It clearly shows I meant corsair because I said corsair amazon shop.

 Anyway, the example I showed was corsair rmx 550w x corsair rmx 850w, it can't be fairer than that. Also I went along with you and put 0.10 per kwh, where i live I pay $0.20 per kwh, even at 0.10 per kwh you get your money back on those 2% per day you save on your electricity bill, imagine myself that pay double than you pay per kwh. Let's put my computer as an example, 24 hours using  folding at home when I'm not playing games, 600 watts total, now 600 watts x 24 = 14.4 kilowatts, 14.4 x 0.20 = $2.88 usd per day, now lets see per year $2.88 x 367 = $1057 usd, now 2% of it? $22 per year, 10 years saving $22 usd per year will be $220 usd and that is when the warranty expires. Now if you say my math is bad that means, 24 hours is not a day for you and 367 days is not a year for you, so I guess you must not live in this planet. The thread opener will have the same outcome if he uses his computer 24 hours per day and use around 550 watts per hour.


----------



## Vayra86 (Jun 4, 2019)

Metroid said:


> Where did i say anything that you mentioned evga? the example I showed was corsair rmx 550w x corsair rmx 850w, it can't be fairer than that. Also I went along with you and put 0.10 per kwh, where i live I pay $0.20 per kwh, even at 0.10 per kwh you get your money back on those 2% per day you save on your electricity bill, imagine myself that pay double than you pay per kwh. Let's put my computer as an example, 24 hours using  folding at home when I'm not playing games, 600 watts total, now 600 watts x 24 = 14.4 kilowatts, 14.4 x 0.20 = $2.88 usd per day, now lets see per year $2.88 x 367 = $1057 usd, now 2% of it? $22 per year, 10 years saving $22 usd per year will be $220 usd and that is when the warranty expires. Now if you say my math is bad that means, 24 hours is not a day for you and 367 days is not a year for you, so I guess you must not live in this planet. The thread opener will have the same outcome if he uses his computer 24 hours per day and use around 550 watts per hour.



- You don't fold 24 hour per day 365/year.
- The rig won't be using 600W with OP"s components - and while gaming, its also quite rare too see maximum power consumption. I think a 300-350W average is a good starting point.
I can see why its being said that the math is off. Regardless... is price all that matters? Its a short sighted approach IMO, and this is how you end up with a PSU that 'just cuts it'. This whole efficiency curve nonsense is taking things way too far. If you want to save power, turn the PC off regularly and buy power efficient hardware. The PSU is the least of your influence here.

Just overkill PSU, keep it simple, and yes, maybe you'll bleed a few dollars over the next seven to ten years, so what... we're talking about four pints of beer over a decade here.

BTW, that EVGA idea may be coming from my story since I run one... but its irrelevant. RM series is just fine as well when it comes to good allround PSUs (silence/stability/efficiency).


----------



## Metroid (Jun 4, 2019)

Vayra86 said:


> - You don't fold 24 hour per day 365/year.
> - The rig won't be using 600W with OP"s components.
> I can see why its being said that the math is off. Regardless... is price all that matters? Its a short sighted approach IMO, and this is how you end up with a PSU that 'just cuts it'. This whole efficiency curve nonsense is taking things way too far. If you want to save power, turn the PC off regularly and buy power efficient hardware. The PSU is the least of your influence here.
> 
> ...



I really don't fold 24 hours a day, i mentioned when I'm not playing games. So my watts usage still proceeds. Also efficiency matters if you want to save money and those 2% is very important for me as I stated that I pay 0.20 per kwh. Hey, if efficiency is not important for you I get it, I really do but the truth cant be denied here, 2% saves money and that is the point I'm making here, getting a 850 watts is a better deal than a 550 watts psu just because it offers 2% more efficiency even if you pay 0.10 per kwh.


----------



## PaddieMayne (Jun 4, 2019)

Go for a good 650w Gold rated PSU for peace of mind, this is one area you should never ever cut corners on...
For example...





						EVGA 650 GQ, 80+ GOLD 650W, Semi Modular, EVGA ECO Mode, Power Supply 210-GQ-0650-V3: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories
					

Buy



					www.amazon.co.uk
				








						Corsair CP-9020178-UK RM650x 80 PLUS Gold 650 W Fully Modular ATX Power Supply - Black: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories
					

Buy



					www.amazon.co.uk


----------



## Vayra86 (Jun 4, 2019)

Metroid said:


> I really don't fold 24 hours a day, i mentioned when I'm not playing games. So my watts usage still proceeds. Also efficiency matters if you want to save money and those 2% is very important for me as I stated that I pay 0.20 per kwh. Hey, if efficiency is not important for you I get it, I really do but the truth cant be denied here, 2% saves money and that is the point I'm making here, getting a 850 watts is a better deal than a 550 watts psu just because it offers 2% more efficiency even if you pay 0.10 per kwh.



We don't disagree, but its a mistake to put forward YOUR rather extreme use case (folding anytime the PC is not in use is a tremendous 'waste' of power on a tight wallet) and apply it to the OP's situation, don't you think?

And note... I pay 0.26/Kwh go figure. I know from experience, if you really want to make a dent in power savings, its all about the potential use of the system itself, not the few % of efficiency gaps. Not at this power level - anything under 800W is peanuts on a yearly bill wrt PSU efficiency.


----------



## Metroid (Jun 4, 2019)

Vayra86 said:


> We don't disagree, but its a mistake to put forward YOUR rather extreme use case (folding anytime the PC is not in use is a tremendous 'waste' of power on a tight wallet) and apply it to the OP's situation, don't you think?



I do, now is up for him to decide, we gave our arguments in our own way. Thanks for understanding.


----------



## EarthDog (Jun 4, 2019)

So, fringe cases make it worth it... I alluded to that earlier. But most who pay around what I do (you'd think through previous conversations that 10c /kwh is high, lol) and have price differences between models like I showed (sales will affect this of course) it isn't worth paying more and waiting for an ROI.

I wouldn't say we disagree Metroid, just understand that you are in one off situations and it works for YOU. Most don't run their PC on load 24/7 or game 10 hours a day, etc. I conceded fringe cases very early in this discussion.

People just need to do THEIR math and see. You'll find most will fit into the parameters I listed as opposed to gaming 10 hours /day and folding in the meantime... as well as paying over 20c /kwh (here in the states). But it certainly isn't as cut and dry as you make it out to be (and I suppose me too)... let's be clear there. 

RE: EVGA - you mentioned it first.. I never mentioned evga... so no idea why you even brought that up. I linked two high-end corsair units initially in a newegg compare.

overkill is worth it... that is why I am saying 650W is fine for the OP (he can get away with a 550W unit honestly)... During gaming that rig isn't going to break 450W. 

.......and, for realz, unsubscribed. buh byez now.


----------



## phill (Jun 4, 2019)

When it comes to PSUs I don't like suggesting cheap/er models other than the top tier because even they are cheap in comparison to loosing all of your hardware due to a spike in the supply or something bad happening that's out of your control.

I've bought some 650w units (EVGA G+ models), some 850w units (EVGA G+ and a P2 model) and I've 1200w and 1600w units as well, all again from EVGA (I've a couple original AX1200 units from Corsair) and these have all been amazing with 12 year warranties on all of them (aside from the Corsair units...)

I do crunching with WCG and folding with FAH and these units have been completely rock solid.  I used to do some mining with one of my AX1200 units, that was pulling 800w+ 24/7 for 6 months (my poor electric bill!!) and that was solid, it never crashed or gave me any issues.

The 650w model I would suggest with a 1080 Ti and a CPU without an issue, if you thought of adding another Ti in the mix later on that might be a different story, but if not, then 650w is plenty.  The only reason I went with a the 850's, 1200's and even the 1600 unit was down to the amazingly cheap cost of when I bought them.  Example, better than half price (a 1600w T2 goes for £420 in the UK when I bought the 1600w unit, I paid £150 direct from EVGA.  The 650w models I paid £50 I think, even the 850w I believe £60 or £65...  It was kinda of a no brainer for me.)

So after the rambling, basic thing is buy something decent to start with, you'll never think about it again


----------



## dirtyferret (Jun 4, 2019)

Vayra86 said:


> For noise alone I recommend oversized PSUs. Always. PSU fans can be a major nuisance.
> 
> I run 750W which is way overkill, but I also ONLY hear the fan rev up on hot summer days at full system stress. All other times, its fully idle. I'm also ready for any sort of upgrade: additional GPU, lots of storage, or a transplant into a much heavier rig. High wattage also gets around the 'missing cable/connector' problem quite easily.
> 
> ...



I hate noise period from PC including from the PSU.  I've also owned over a dozen "brand" name PSU ranging from 450w to 650w and never heard any noise from them that was above GPU and CPU fans (and I set them to minimal speeds).  Typically if you don't push a solid PSU past 60%, you won't hear much noise.  Like anything a little research pays off so it depends on the exact power your PC needs and the PSU itself.


----------



## trog100 (Jun 4, 2019)

my son just bought a monster gaming laptop.. I 9 8 core 16 thread K cpu and a 2080 max p gpu..

basically high end desktop parts in a laptop.. it comes with a 340 watt power brick..

the 340 watt brick dosnt have much to spare but its enough to run the machine at full wack.. or very close..

it does make noise though ferret.. he he

trog

ps...


----------



## dirtyferret (Jun 4, 2019)

trog100 said:


> my son just bought a monster gaming laptop.. I 9 8 core 16 thread K cpu and a 2080 max p gpu..
> 
> basically high end desktop parts in a laptop.. it comes with a 340 watt power brick..
> 
> ...



yeah, those gaming laptops sound like the old dust busters once they get going


----------



## avrona (Jun 4, 2019)

phill said:


> When it comes to PSUs I don't like suggesting cheap/er models other than the top tier because even they are cheap in comparison to loosing all of your hardware due to a spike in the supply or something bad happening that's out of your control.
> 
> I've bought some 650w units (EVGA G+ models), some 850w units (EVGA G+ and a P2 model) and I've 1200w and 1600w units as well, all again from EVGA (I've a couple original AX1200 units from Corsair) and these have all been amazing with 12 year warranties on all of them (aside from the Corsair units...)
> 
> ...


I'm not planning any more upgrades for the next 4-5 years or so so I don't really mind if I don't have room for expandabillity. So is the nne I went with which I talked about above good then?


PaddieMayne said:


> Go for a good 650w Gold rated PSU for peace of mind, this is one area you should never ever cut corners on...
> For example...
> 
> 
> ...


Issue is I just have to as I just don't have that type of money, so the one I went with is a 600w, Bronze unit.


----------



## juiseman (Jun 4, 2019)

If this is a brand new build; why not get a new PSU? 
There is always that.0.0009% chance that it could go out in a year or so and
take your new stuff with it.
But; there is also a chance that a new PSU could blow up too.....
Electronics sometimes have a mind of their own and break all set rules.

That being said; you probably won't have any issues with using what you got or getting a new one.

I'm running mostly used workstations now; only 2 custom builds.
no issues so far. The oldest one is reaching 11 years. still works great.


----------



## kapone32 (Jun 4, 2019)

The sweet spot for PSUs is 850W. Do not skimp but buy Corsair, Seasonic or EVGA. Getting 850 will future proof you for the future and will be efficient for your current build.


----------



## mstenholm (Jun 4, 2019)

avrona said:


> I'm not planning any more upgrades for the next 4-5 years or so so I don't really mind if I don't have room for expandabillity. So is the nne I went with which I talked about above good then?
> 
> Issue is I just have to as I just don't have that type of money, so the one I went with is a 600w, Bronze unit.


It has the two 8 pins for the GPU and two 8 pins for the MB so it will do the job. 
Edit: I thought that you picked the 650 GQ. I was wrong I now realized. I did not check this unknown 600 W bronze unit for connectors.


----------



## avrona (Jun 4, 2019)

juiseman said:


> If this is a brand new build; why not get a new PSU?
> There is always that.0.0009% chance that it could go out in a year or so and
> take your new stuff with it.
> But; there is also a chance that a new PSU could blow up too.....
> ...


It's not a new build, just upgrading the CPU, mobo and RAM of my current one so I just decided to also get a new PSU while I'm at it as apparently it's dangerous to run a 2 8 pin card on only 1 8 pin.


----------



## EarthDog (Jun 4, 2019)

avrona said:


> apparently it's dangerous to run a 2 8 pin card on only 1 8 pin.


Ehh, the card simply wouldn't run dude. Make sense.


----------



## avrona (Jun 4, 2019)

EarthDog said:


> Ehh, the card simply wouldn't run dude. Make sense.


The thing is the card is running, and has been running like that since October.


----------



## EarthDog (Jun 4, 2019)

With only using ONE 8-pin connector and the other not plugged in? Adapters are fine....


----------



## avrona (Jun 4, 2019)

EarthDog said:


> With only using ONE 8-pin connector and the other not plugged in? Adapters are fine....


One is plugged in for the other I use an adapter that came with the card, that converts 2 6 pin into 1 8 pin. However since the PSU only has 1 6 pin, only 1 is plugged into the adapter, and it has to also be a specific 1 of the 2 connectors on the adapter as otherwise it doesn't work.


----------



## EarthDog (Jun 4, 2019)

So you have both plugged in and receiving power (one PCIe one via adapter). Your words clearly infer/say that one isn't plugged in/being used. If one wasn't plugged in, the card would not be working as I suggested.

Words mean things... be clear. Make sense.


----------



## Vayra86 (Jun 4, 2019)

EarthDog said:


> So you have both plugged in and receiving power (one PCIe one via adapter). Your words clearly infer/say that one isn't plugged in/being used. If one wasn't plugged in, the card would not be working as I suggested.
> 
> Words mean things... be clear. Make sense.



He did already explain that earlier in the topic though. What is happening now is a single 6>single 8 pin adapter really, which is probably fine given the card TDP.



dirtyferret said:


> I hate noise period from PC including from the PSU.  I've also owned over a dozen "brand" name PSU ranging from 450w to 650w and never heard any noise from them that was above GPU and CPU fans (and I set them to minimal speeds).  Typically if you don't push a solid PSU past 60%, you won't hear much noise.  Like anything a little research pays off so it depends on the exact power your PC needs and the PSU itself.



Correct but there are also still a bunch of PSUs with crappy fans. I had a LEPA 650G and it was horrible - even at 50% load. My experience with noise is also that its a matter of frequency and not just dB values. The PSU fan will almost always 'sound' different than the rest of them, so it can stand out everytime it revs up.


----------



## dirtyferret (Jun 4, 2019)

Vayra86 said:


> ...there are also still a bunch of PSUs with crappy fans. I had a LEPA 650G and it was horrible - even at 50% load.



could have just been a bad fan, I thought CWT stuck a yate loon ball bearing fan in there similar to their Corsair and Thermaltake units.


----------



## Vayra86 (Jun 4, 2019)

dirtyferret said:


> could have just been a bad fan, I thought CWT stuck a yate loon ball bearing fan in there similar to their Corsair and Thermaltake units.



I still have it somewhere I think I might open it up, good point.


----------



## danbert2000 (Jun 4, 2019)

Anything beyond 750 W is pointless for single processor, single GPU builds. I would get 600-750W capacity. A good gold or platinum 600W would be a better choice than a bronze 750W, for noise and heat.


----------



## phill (Jun 4, 2019)

avrona said:


> I'm not planning any more upgrades for the next 4-5 years or so so I don't really mind if I don't have room for expandabillity. So is the nne I went with which I talked about above good then?
> 
> Issue is I just have to as I just don't have that type of money, so the one I went with is a 600w, Bronze unit.



I'm not 100% sure on which unit you where looking at, please post up a link for us/me 

Also, keep an eye to one of these units, EVGA 650w G+ they are brilliant units and for the money, even better   Keep an eye out for offers on them, I've seen them go for as low as £50


----------



## oxrufiioxo (Jun 4, 2019)

phill said:


> I'm not 100% sure on which unit you where looking at, please post up a link for us/me
> 
> Also, keep an eye to one of these units, EVGA 650w G+ they are brilliant units and for the money, even better  Keep an eye out for offers on them, I've seen them go for as low as £50



This is what he was looking at and maybe already purchased it wasn't 100% clear the way he worded it. 









						be quiet!
					

be quiet!




					www.bequiet.com
				





He's probably better off sticking with what he has if money is that tight. 
The G1+ you mentioned would be massively better but OP apparently can't afford anything better than the Bequiet.


----------



## Vario (Jun 5, 2019)

Here is a counter argument for those that say the gold platinum titanium etc 80+  aren't worth it.
A few years ago I shrunk my system by  moving from a Cosmos 1000 full tower to a mini tower Lian Li A05.  This is an ATX case but it is about the size of some micro ITX mini towers.  The 80+ Bronze 600 watt Seasonic M12 power supply I had generated a good bit of waste heat and the whole system ran a bit hotter. Bought a 80+ Platinum 660 watt Seasonic XP power supply and now at full load barely any heat is generated from the power supply.   The other components in my system run cooler because the case ambient is now lower.  Before I would take the case bezel off the front while gaming and the power supply felt burning hot.  Now it barely gets warm.  If you have a smaller case I recommend running atleast a Gold.


----------



## Xzibit (Jun 5, 2019)

Some manufacturers like Seasonic provide graphs on noise/fan operating range.

I personally wouldn't get a PSU with a over 25db or high fan RPM (1400+) at the expected system load range you'll be running. PSU is its own enclosure and shoots the air out the back. Silent cases wont dampen the fan/air noise from the PSU.


----------



## MrPerforations (Jun 5, 2019)

hello,
         Cooler master™ Lite, great price, known brand, Cooler Master™ Lite 700w
I would also say EVGA™ as it got/had a 10 years warranty.
been looking for psu my self for my other older pc, so looking at bigger and then use my main pc psu in the older pc.
EVGA™ 1600w £400, they have the crazy idea I am going to buy one at that price when the EVGA™ 1000w cost £120


----------



## mstenholm (Jun 5, 2019)

MrPerforations said:


> I would also say EVGA™ as it got/had a 10 years warranty.


That is not the case for the lower end units. I checked the 650 G+ mentioned some post above to check the numbers of 12 V connectors and this model had 5 years. Can somebody tell if a x470 with two eight pin ESP1 needs but to run? If that is the case the x570 which mostly have two of these likely will need two as well leading to the total need of four. That rule out most of the lower end 500-550 W units.


----------



## phill (Jun 5, 2019)

oxrufiioxo said:


> This is what he was looking at and maybe already purchased it wasn't 100% clear the way he worded it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



As I said there was a sale on when I bought mine and they where half that price, so an utter bargain.  I picked up a few at the time   With the models I bought, I save close to £1000 



mstenholm said:


> That is not the case for the lower end units. I checked the 650 G+ mentioned some post above to check the numbers of 12 V connectors and this model had 5 years. Can somebody tell if a x470 with two eight pin ESP1 needs but to run? If that is the case the x570 which mostly have two of these likely will need two as well leading to the total need of four. That rule out most of the lower end 500-550 W units.



Must have been on an offer or something @mstenholm as all of my EVGA units I've registered have been with 12 years of warranty, something that I really can't complain about  
I believe you can run with a single cable but if it's there, it's probably best to use both of them since my mate and I did the same with a Gigabyte X99-SOC board, ran with a single 8 pin (made some noise) but when plugged in the second connector, the noise went away..  

I'd guess that with the smaller units, they wouldn't have dual CPU connectors, possibly singles.  But for the likes of the bigger boards such as the SR-3, I'm not sure even the 1600w models have 4 CPU connectors?  I'd be surprised.... EVGA 1600w PSU


----------



## mstenholm (Jun 5, 2019)

phill said:


> I'd guess that with the smaller units, they wouldn't have dual CPU connectors, possibly singles.  But for the likes of the bigger boards such as the SR-3, I'm not sure even the 1600w models have 4 CPU connectors?  I'd be surprised.... EVGA 1600w PSU


2xGPU+ 2xCPU = 4 eight pins connectors.  When we need 4x8 + 24 for a CPU we need more windmills/solar. Even 2x8+24 is more then 650 W if maxed out I saw some where and that in my mind is overkill, but if the board run like shit with only one... 
The five year I got from EVGA homepage. There could be a sticker in the box that give additional five year upon registration.


----------



## phill (Jun 5, 2019)

mstenholm said:


> 2xGPU+ 2xCPU = 4 eight pins connectors.  When we need 4x8 + 24 for a CPU we need more windmills/solar. Even 2x8+24 is more then 650 W if maxed out I saw some where and that in my mind is overkill, but if the board run like shit with only one...
> The five year I got from EVGA homepage. There could be a sticker in the box that give additional five year upon registration.



Ah apologies sir, I thought you just meant CPU   On some of the motherboards I've got, they are all dual 8 pin connectors and I just use them   I'm glad I've already got the solar panels at home else I wouldn't be doing half of what I'm currently doing!! 

I'm surprised as most of the units I thought where at least longer than that..  I wonder if it was because I've had them from the USA....  Ah well, 12 years I think should cover it anyways 

Just took a look and it seems that it just depends on the unit you go for...






I've got a couple of the ones in the middle for my WCG rigs, they are brilliant units


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## avrona (Jun 5, 2019)

phill said:


> I'm not 100% sure on which unit you where looking at, please post up a link for us/me
> 
> Also, keep an eye to one of these units, EVGA 650w G+ they are brilliant units and for the money, even better   Keep an eye out for offers on them, I've seen them go for as low as £50



The one I went with is a Be Quiet System Power 9 600W, as it at least has the 2 8 pin connectors unlike my current one, it's 50 more watts, and it's actually £3 cheaper than the CX550 I was planning on going with.


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## EarthDog (Jun 5, 2019)

Did you look at any reviews?









						be quiet! Pure Power 9 600W PSU Review
					

be quiet! released the updated Pure Power 9 series that consists of four semi-modular models with capacities ranging from 400W to 700W. Today, we're looking at the 600W implementation to see where it stands in the competitive mainstream market.




					www.tomshardware.com
				




It's serviceable... that's about it. At least it has all your connectors. Enjoy!


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## mstenholm (Jun 5, 2019)

EarthDog said:


> Did you look at any reviews?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


This one has* ONE* eight pin ESP connector! That might put a limit to which X570 board he can use. Over and out.


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## EarthDog (Jun 5, 2019)

Typically those are optional, additional EPS connectors, but I hear ya and that is a good call.


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## mstenholm (Jun 5, 2019)

One might be optional. I saw some prices from MSI (now retracted) and the cheapest X570 Gaming Plus (8+4 ESP) was 220 Euro. If +£20 on a decent PSU is a problem for OP then I doubt he is going to get a X570 anyway. In the 400 series the 450 and below was with only one 8 pin ESP so that's where he lands (H or B 550 or whatever they will be named), eventually. There are no mentioning of them yet.....


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## EarthDog (Jun 5, 2019)

Yes, obviously the second one is optional, LOL. ONE is obviously a requirement. You inferred a second and I played my post off yours and even said "additional EPS connectors"...I didn't think it needed further clarity, but thanks!


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## avrona (Jun 6, 2019)

EarthDog said:


> Did you look at any reviews?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've been actually discussing what PSU I should get in a Discord with some other people for a while now, and this one came up pretty often as a good one, but I could never find it for cheaper than the CX550, but now I finally have.


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## lexluthermiester (Jun 6, 2019)

avrona said:


> What wattage psu should I get for a Ryzen 3700x, a GTX 1080 Ti, 2 hard drives, 1 SATA cable SSD, 1 optical drive, 2x8gb ddr4 RAM sticks, and a Sound Blaster Z sound card? Though I am already running an fx-8350 with that same graphics card, storage and sound card with a 550w psu and that doesn't seem to have any issues, yet I've seen some people suggest I need a 650w instead, even though ryzen will use far less power than my current processor.


I know I'm late to the party, but thought I'd offer my 2 cents.

I'd go for 750w to 850w PSU. Two reasons;
A. PSU's that greatly out class the equipment running on them generally last much longer because they never get pushed to, or even near, their rated limits.
And
B. Future proofing your system. If you already have a high wattage PSU, if/when you look at upgrading it will be one less component you need to consider for replacement if you choose to use parts requiring higher power requirements

Given that your current PSU is working likely means you could get away with a direct upgrade to Ryzen. However, you have to ask yourself how stressed the PSU has been running that combination of parts for so long. My personal and profession recommendation is replace that 550w PSU and go with something quality and of much higher wattage than you really need which will give you and your system a lot of breathing room.


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## dirtyferret (Jun 6, 2019)

lexluthermiester said:


> I know I'm late to the party, but thought I'd offer my 2 cents.
> 
> I'd go for 750w to 850w PSU. Two reasons;
> A. PSU's that greatly out class the equipment running on them generally last much longer because they never get pushed to, or even near, their rated limits.



This is true although most people greatly exaggerate their power needs and often look at peak numbers as if they are an average not realizing power needs are fluid.  A solid PSU should not be pushed at all at 40-60% max power.  Remember a corsair PSU with a seven year warranty means the company stands behind 24-7 use at peak for seven years.  Very few people would ever push a PSU to this limit.
And


lexluthermiester said:


> B. Future proofing your system. If you already have a high wattage PSU, if/when you look at upgrading it will be one less component you need to consider for replacement if you choose to use parts requiring higher power requirements



This is a part that I don't understand since SLI and cross are going the way of the dodo.  If you have a 650w unit and only push it to about 300w tops; even if you upgrade to more power hungry CPU and GPU you more then likely won't even break 375w.


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## lexluthermiester (Jun 6, 2019)

dirtyferret said:


> This is a part that I don't understand since SLI and cross are going the way of the dodo. If you have a 650w unit and only push it to about 300w tops; even if you upgrade to more power hungry CPU and GPU you more then likely won't even break 375w.


I'm thinking more of TR CPU's and/or high power RTX/Navi GPU's. Where PSU's are concerned I always advocate playing safe then sorry. As general rule, with my clients we calculate an estimated power usage need and try to triple it for PSU selection, but at minimum double. This methodology ensures that a PSU will rarely, if ever, be stressed thus providing solid power performance for years with very little chance for stress induced failure.


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## dirtyferret (Jun 7, 2019)

lexluthermiester said:


> I'm thinking more of TR CPU's and/or high power RTX/Navi GPU's. Where PSU's are concerned I always advocate playing safe then sorry. As general rule, with my clients we calculate an estimated power usage need and try to triple it for PSU selection, but at minimum double. This methodology ensures that a PSU will rarely, if ever, be stressed thus providing solid power performance for years with very little chance for stress induced failure.


I figure anyone building a TR workstation has a general awareness of power needs especially if they also plan to have GPUs.


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## trog100 (Jun 7, 2019)

lexluthermiester said:


> I'm thinking more of TR CPU's and/or high power RTX/Navi GPU's. Where PSU's are concerned I always advocate playing safe then sorry. As general rule, with my clients we calculate an estimated power usage need and try to triple it for PSU selection, but at minimum double. This methodology ensures that a PSU will rarely, if ever, be stressed thus providing solid power performance for years with very little chance for stress induced failure.



if your thinking is correct.. people who spend up to £4000 on a really high end laptop (desktop replacement) are being short changed with the 340 watt power brick they come with.. 

trog


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## EarthDog (Jun 7, 2019)

avrona said:


> I've been actually discussing what PSU I should get in a Discord with some other people for a while now, and this one came up pretty often as a good one, but I could never find it for cheaper than the CX550, but now I finally have.


Reviews > some random schmos on discord.


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## lexluthermiester (Jun 7, 2019)

trog100 said:


> if your thinking is correct.. people who spend up to £4000 on a really high end laptop (desktop replacement) are being short changed with the 340 watt power brick they come with..


Different kind of electronics standards as a rule. Those PSU's are usual manufactured to much higher standards and upgrade to laptops are less frequent. So they afford to keep tolerances tighter. However, I agree. They are under-powered generally.


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## avrona (Jun 8, 2019)

EarthDog said:


> Reviews > some random schmos on discord.


It's not random people though. It's all enthusiast system builders in a Discord dedicated to that...


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## EarthDog (Jun 8, 2019)

avrona said:


> It's not random people though. It's all enthusiast system builders in a Discord dedicated to that...


mmhmm. Reviews > people on chat. Come on kiddo...use your head.


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## avrona (Jun 8, 2019)

EarthDog said:


> mmhmm. Reviews > people on chat. Come on kiddo...use your head.


And I am, that's why I went with this PSU because many trusted people suggested it...


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## mstenholm (Jun 8, 2019)

avrona said:


> And I am, that's why I went with this PSU because many trusted people suggested it...


And still nobody mentioned that it only have one ESP connector and you need two.....trust these people with your life.


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## avrona (Jun 8, 2019)

mstenholm said:


> And still nobody mentioned that it only have one ESP connector and you need two.....trust these people with your life.


Because I don't need two ESP connectors.


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## mstenholm (Jun 8, 2019)

avrona said:


> Because I don't need two ESP connectors.


No because you are to cheap to get a X570.


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## avrona (Jun 8, 2019)

mstenholm said:


> No because you are to cheap to get a X570.


What? What on earth does that even mean?


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## bogmali (Jun 8, 2019)

OK I think the OP got the idea and some of you are just arguing for the sake of arguing. Closing shop


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