# 1st time water cooling...possible disaster...wet motherboard



## PopcornMachine (Mar 27, 2011)

I recently installed a new XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 kit on my system.  It was cooling the CPU and IOH for about a week, but the goal was to add the GPU into the loop.

Everything was out of the case and power only applied to the pump and fans for a leak test.

Apparently I had not reconnected a hose to the IOH block tight enough.  I turned it off immediately, but not quick enough to prevent blue fesser fluid (yes I know it's crap) running all over my board.

I've tried it the best I can.  Going to check CPU, but think it's OK. 

Questions are:

Do I need to do anything else?
Do I need to clean the board some how?
How long do I wait before trying the board again?
Where do I find someone to shoot me?

That is all.


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## slyfox2151 (Mar 27, 2011)

make sure its COMPLETLY DRY..... but you should have had distiled water in it.... so by itself it should not be conductive.... there for likely nothing has happend to the board.



just get a paper towel or screen cleaning cloth and wipe down the motherboard.... grab a hairdryer on medium heat to remove the water... dont heat the motherboard too much.


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## PopcornMachine (Mar 27, 2011)

slyfox2151 said:


> make sure its COMPLETLY DRY..... but you should have had distiled water in it.... so by itself it should not be conductive.... there for likely nothing has happend to the board.
> 
> 
> 
> just get a paper towel or screen cleaning cloth and wipe down the motherboard.... grab a hairdryer on medium heat to remove the water... dont heat the motherboard too much.



Thanks for the quick reply.  Have been using paper towels.  Was wondering about hair dryer.  Will give it a try.  Going to wait a day or so also.

Going to switch to distilled water. Any specific suggestion for that?

Thanks again.


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## PopcornMachine (Mar 27, 2011)

Water under the battery, and in the PCIE-16 slots.  If this fesser stuff is good for anything, it's turning the towel blue so you can see where it is.

Just a spot of water on one notch of cpu socket.

Dabbing and blow drying.  And going to let it sit for a day or more.


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## Krony (Mar 27, 2011)

As long as u get it totally dry u should be ok, let us know how it goes.


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## Wrigleyvillain (Mar 27, 2011)

Welcome to water cooling!


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## Deleted member 74752 (Mar 27, 2011)

No such thing as non-conductive water. The blue Feser is fine, only the red seems to break down over time. If you have access to compressed air flush your board with alcohol and blow dry...do it all the time here when benching cascade/dice/LN2.


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## cyriene (Mar 27, 2011)

I've gotten mobos and video cards wet before. I use distilled and not any mixes so that it will evaporate and not leave shit behind as well. 

I just put them in front of a fan for a couple days to dry out really well and they worked fine afterwards.


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## Feizy (Mar 27, 2011)

Canned air can help get the little bits of water out from under the impossible to get to spots.


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## PopcornMachine (Mar 27, 2011)

Thanks all.  Why didn't I think of an air can.  

Well get back when I feel ready to try it out.


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## erocker (Mar 27, 2011)

rickss69 said:


> No such thing as non-conductive water. The blue Feser is fine, only the red seems to break down over time. If you have access to compressed air flush your board with alcohol and blow dry...do it all the time here when benching cascade/dice/LN2.



Exactly what I was going to suggest.  To make it a little easier I have a very small spray bottle that I fill with the higheset % alcohol I can find and spray close at the affected area.


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## PopcornMachine (Mar 27, 2011)

Air shows it is still wet in places.  Going use a hairdryer some  more and maybe a fan.

This might take a while.


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## PopcornMachine (Mar 27, 2011)

erocker said:


> Exactly what I was going to suggest.  To make it a little easier I have a very small spray bottle that I fill with the higheset % alcohol I can find and spray close at the affected area.



I have been swabbing a bit with my rubbing alcohol, but not sure it it was the right thing.

You guys are saying to actually spray it on the board?

Well, guess it's worth a try.  Have already seen signs of residue in some spots.


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## Deleted member 74752 (Mar 27, 2011)

Yeah, just power it off when you do it. The alcohol helps displace the water and evaporates fairly quickly. If you think there was a chance any fluid got in the cpu socket pop it out and flush/dry it as well.


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## PopcornMachine (Mar 27, 2011)

rickss69 said:


> Yeah, just power it off when you do it. The alcohol helps displace the water and evaporates fairly quickly. If you think there was a chance any fluid got in the cpu socket pop it out and flush/dry it as well.



The best thing I did was to not have to board powered when this happened.  Only the cooling got power.  Just leak testing, and boy did I find one.

Did take out the CPU and saw one drop on a notch.  Nothing on the pins fortunately.

Will clean that part of cpu.  Thanks.

Now going to get some distilled water and a small spray bottle.


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## overclocking101 (Mar 27, 2011)

this is the shitty part about watercooling. at least no hardware (knock on wood) has died yet. i have lost tons to watercooling, via leaks bad waterblocks shitty hose/fittings. as long as you learn from it thats what matters. what did we learn this time?? Always double check your fittings for tightness and waterblock bolts as wel


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## surfingerman (Mar 28, 2011)

water-cooling is extremely dangerous, the only thing more dangerous than water-cooling is gtx590ing


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## n-ster (Mar 28, 2011)

try using isopropyl 99%, 91% is fine too, but I personally don't trust any lower than that. that shit evaporates quickly. I once spilled like 100 ml on my CPU (not mobo...) all over the pins and stuff, just blew on it for 10 minutes and the CPU was OCed 2 mins after that  Isopropyl  is better than the dryer or any water of any sort because it evaporates VERY quickly at high concentrations, and it takes the residue out (and kills 99% of germs? )


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## Wrigleyvillain (Mar 28, 2011)

PopcornMachine said:


> Just leak testing, and boy did I find one.



A+++! Would lol again!


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## Thrackan (Mar 29, 2011)

Oh, the joy of water 

Just make sure to take your time, take it as easy as possible, and use all those drying tips here to your fullest advantage.
I left my board out to dry for 2 days after my first leak, which was enough


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## trickson (Mar 29, 2011)

surfingerman said:


> water-cooling is extremely dangerous, the only thing more dangerous than water-cooling is gtx590ing



I disagree . The thing is the OP did the right thing . Testing for water leaks before powering up is safe . But I would have done the testing with out the MB in the case ( far less chance of leaking liquid getting onto the hardware . ) .


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## Wrigleyvillain (Mar 29, 2011)

Yeah don't mean to give the uninitiated who may be reading this thread the impression that big accidents like this are particularly common but of course it can happen.


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## trickson (Mar 29, 2011)

Wrigleyvillain said:


> Yeah don't mean to give the uninitiated who may be reading this thread the impression that big accidents like this are particularly common but of course it can happen.


LOL Yes I started a generic less than perfect guide to water cooling I hope that it helps people and encourages them as well . I just love water cooling it has been so fun !


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## whitrzac (Mar 29, 2011)

no one has recommended putting the board in a bow/boxl, and filling it with rice?


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## Bjorn_Of_Iceland (Mar 29, 2011)

whitrzac said:


> no one has recommended putting the board in a bow/boxl, and filling it with rice?


rice would get stuck in some parts, and would give you rice crispies later on when you boot


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## Wrigleyvillain (Mar 29, 2011)

Snap Crackle Pop!


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## trickson (Mar 29, 2011)

Wrigleyvillain said:


> Snap Crackle Pop!



LOL . Not only will putting rice on it take longer than just a hair dryer but the rice will get stuck in spots you do not want it to and could cause more harm than good .


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## PopcornMachine (Mar 29, 2011)

trickson said:


> ...The thing is the OP did the right thing . Testing for water leaks before powering up is safe . But I would have done the testing with out the MB in the case ( far less chance of leaking liquid getting onto the hardware . ) .



I should explain that I had been running for about week with the CPU and IOH blocks in place.  So I was probably a little over confident, thinking I had that part down.

This test was with the GPU block in the loop.  The 2nd smart thing I did was just testing that block and not involving my HD 6950.  Would be even more upset, depressed, if my $300 graphics card had got wet.

Mostly just been letting it sit for a couple days now.  Will look it over and do some more cleaning tonight.  Maybe even give it a try if all is well.


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## trickson (Mar 29, 2011)

I personally think you will be just fine . As long as you " fixed " the problem . 2 days is IMHO long enough for every thing to dry up . You should be just fine . Over cleaning and being all paranoid about a bit of water can cause you more problems . as long as you have cleaned up what you could , Used a hair dryer and let it sit for a day or 2 there is nothing left to do but hook it up and give it another shot .


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## Wrigleyvillain (Mar 29, 2011)

Make the popcorn!


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## PopcornMachine (Mar 30, 2011)

Well, no popcorn.  Nothing but the sound of silence.

Put the loop back together and did a leak test first, which went fine. 

Then put a spare video card in, hard drive, etc. And nothing.  The on-board power on light glows, but doesn't seem to work. Tried using the case power connected to the header, still nothing.

Guess my board is dead.  

Now I don't know if CPU is dead either.


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## MT Alex (Mar 30, 2011)

NOOOOoooo!
I'm holding out for an oversight when putting it back together.  I had a 4870 that had to be plugged in just right or nothing would power on.  I would be bummed if this thread ended this way.


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## n-ster (Mar 30, 2011)

meh, I never liked that board, you got an excuse to upgrade now  Considering you other components, you could just upgrade to SB, else just get a nice board like the X58A-UD3R, maybe some RAM with that?


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## HUSKIE (Mar 30, 2011)

Make it sure all end loops are secured firmly/tightened otherwise might be a big problem with your system..


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## Thrackan (Mar 30, 2011)

PopcornMachine said:


> Well, no popcorn.  Nothing but the sound of silence.
> 
> Put the loop back together and did a leak test first, which went fine.
> 
> ...



Last 20 times I had a similar dead silence, I forgot the 4-pin power plug. Fingers crossed...


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## 20mmrain (Mar 30, 2011)

rickss69 said:


> No such thing as non-conductive water. The blue Feser is fine, only the red seems to break down over time. If you have access to compressed air flush your board with alcohol and blow dry...do it all the time here when benching cascade/dice/LN2.



Shit I use Fesser Red right now does it really cause a problem over time?


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## PopcornMachine (Mar 30, 2011)

Thrackan said:


> Last 20 times I had a similar dead silence, I forgot the 4-pin power plug. Fingers crossed...



I have two 4-pins and they are in.  I'm tired and it's late. Going to fiddle some more tomorrow, but it doesn't look good.


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## de.das.dude (Mar 30, 2011)

slyfox2151 said:


> make sure its COMPLETLY DRY..... but you should have had distiled water in it.... so by itself it should not be conductive.... there for likely nothing has happend to the board.
> 
> 
> 
> just get a paper towel or screen cleaning cloth and wipe down the motherboard.... grab a hairdryer on medium heat to remove the water... dont heat the motherboard too much.



actually. i tried a conductivity test on water. tap water (if it doesnt have a lot of iron content and is soft water) is very unconductive, specially we see that max voltages ina pc is 12v.

i added salt to the water and when the water was really salty(enough to make you barf with one drop) it starts to conduct.

if you want to be extra sure, just get some distilled water(ubleaded one) from a chemistry lab and wash it all again. let them all dry in the sun and youre good to go.


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## Wile E (Mar 30, 2011)

rickss69 said:


> No such thing as non-conductive water. The blue Feser is fine, only the red seems to break down over time. If you have access to compressed air flush your board with alcohol and blow dry...do it all the time here when benching cascade/dice/LN2.



Pure water is 100% non-conductive. It's contaminates that make it conductive. I've spilled distilled water on a running computer with no effect. I shut down and dried it anyway, but that's not the point. That being said, I was just lucky, as even dust on a board can make water conductive. 

But the alcohol and air compressor trick works wonders. Hair dryer is also good in a pinch.



trickson said:


> I disagree . The thing is the OP did the right thing . Testing for water leaks before powering up is safe . *But I would have done the testing with out the MB in the case *( far less chance of leaking liquid getting onto the hardware . ) .



That's pointless. Just moving the loop can introduce new leaks. You test it the way it's going to be installed.

As far as the OP, getting water on non-running components should not have done any damage. When my 2900XT was brand new, my TEC setup had a meltdown, and sprayed water all over the interior of my computer. The TEC took out the CPU and mobo by melting it, but everything else was fine once I dried them out. I've had numerous leaks over the years, and drying always seems to work.

Link to the carnage: http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38153


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## trickson (Mar 30, 2011)

Wile E said:


> That's pointless. Just moving the loop can introduce new leaks.



No just moving the WB with hose clamps on the barb's / fittings will not cause new leaks , That is if they are secure and on right there is no way . 
I have had my water cooling setup for years now and not ONCE have I had a leak any were . I do not know what it is with people and there water cooling setup's leaking . I have 2 rads connected with a res and a CPU WB . I have yet to see any leaks at any time . 
It is so easy not to get any leaks when you take the time to do it right .

@OP 
I am sorry to hear this about your system , I would think that if you had no power going to the MB or any other hardware at the time you had the leak that every thing would be just fine , I am at a loos as to what has happened . Tinker with it some more make sure every thing is correctly installed and if nothing then start to RMA things starting with the MB first . That is all I can think of .


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## Thrackan (Mar 30, 2011)

trickson said:


> No just moving the WB with hose clamps on the barb's / fittings will not cause new leaks , That is if they are secure and on right there is no way .
> I have had my water cooling setup for years now and not ONCE have I had a leak any were . I do not know what it is with people and there water cooling setup's leaking . I have 2 rads connected with a res and a CPU WB . I have yet to see any leaks at any time .
> It is so easy not to get any leaks when you take the time to do it right .



Can I touch you? You are awesome.



> @OP
> I am sorry to hear this about your system , I would think that if you had no power going to the MB or any other hardware at the time you had the leak that every thing would be just fine , I am at a loos as to what has happened . Tinker with it some more make sure every thing is correctly installed and if nothing then start to RMA things starting with the MB first . That is all I can think of .





> Everything was out of the case and power only applied to the pump and fans for a leak test.


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## trickson (Mar 30, 2011)

Thrackan said:


> Can I touch you? You are awesome.



Yes You may 

BTW NOT every thing was out of the case if this happened . 



PopcornMachine said:


> Everything was out of the case and power only applied to the pump and fans for a leak test.
> 
> Apparently I had not reconnected a hose to the IOH block tight enough. I turned it off immediately, but not quick enough to prevent blue fesser fluid (yes I know it's crap) running all over my board.



What happened is that you see the " Test " was conducted with every thing in the case , How ells do you get liquid all over the MB ? Osmosis ?
It is also possible that you had power going to the MB at the time ( I was not there so I assume this ) even the MB battery has power going to the MB . With this said , I stand behind what I say 100% . Always test your new water cooling unit out with EVERY THING OUT OF THE CASE ! In other words setup your water system DRY ( With every thing in the case first , Then before you go to test it , Take every thing out ! ) This could have been prevented IMHO .


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## PopcornMachine (Mar 30, 2011)

trickson said:


> Yes You may
> 
> BTW NOT every thing was out of the case if this happened .
> 
> ...



The PSU and drive were in the case, but everything else was on the table, out of the case.  As I said.  If I had a leak, I'm not sure what difference it would make if it was in the case, out of the case, or whatever.  The hose leaks, the board gets wet.

And there was no power going to the motherboard at the time.

I'm having a bad enough week without being called a liar on top of it.


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## trickson (Mar 30, 2011)

PopcornMachine said:


> The PSU and drive were in the case, but everything else was on the table, out of the case.  As I said.  If I had a leak, I'm not sure what difference it would make if it was in the case, out of the case, or whatever.  The hose leaks, the board gets wet.
> 
> And there was no power going to the motherboard at the time.
> 
> I'm having a bad enough week without being called a liar on top of it.




I am NOT calling any one a LIAR ! I am just reading the way it is written . So just how did the liquid get on the MB ? Where did the liquid go on the MB ? And what have you done to test it out ? 
Have you taken out the CPU and looked at the socket , CPU , and all the other components ? 
Have you tried a bench test ? Every on the table and not in the case ? You may have a short ( Just maybe ) . You may have a bent CPU pin ( Just maybe ) . Have you looked at all the WB's in your loop making sure they are not touching any of the parts on the boards ? Video card , CPU . 
If all this has been done and every thing checks out . I would do one last thing to make sure the MB is dry and free from all liquid . Take the battery and CPU out of the MB first then take a bottle of Alcohol and pour it all over the MB , soak it good ! Take out a hair dryer after you have dumped all the excess alcohol off and stood the MB on end , and on low dry it all every nook and cranny front and back ( Use caned air for all the hard spots as well making sure you have every bit of liquid out of every thing ) then re-test . This is all I can say . as there should not be any thing that has fried at all . I Just do not get it myself . I wish you luck I do feel bad for you and what you are going through trust me . I hate to see any thing like this happen to any one . I am only trying to help you the best way I know how . 
I am sorry . And I DO hope you can get this all worked out .


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## PopcornMachine (Mar 30, 2011)

trickson said:


> I am NOT calling any one a LIAR ! I am just reading the way it is written . So just how did the liquid get on the MB ? Where did the liquid go on the MB ? And what have you done to test it out ?
> Have you taken out the CPU and looked at the socket , CPU , and all the other components ?
> Have you tried a bench test ? Every on the table and not in the case ? You may have a short ( Just maybe ) . You may have a bent CPU pin ( Just maybe ) . Have you looked at all the WB's in your loop making sure they are not touching any of the parts on the boards ? Video card , CPU .
> If all this has been done and every thing checks out . I would do one last thing to make sure the MB is dry and free from all liquid . Take the battery and CPU out of the MB first then take a bottle of Alcohol and pour it all over the MB , soak it good ! Take out a hair dryer after you have dumped all the excess alcohol off and stood the MB on end , and on low dry it all every nook and cranny front and back ( Use caned air for all the hard spots as well making sure you have every bit of liquid out of every thing ) then re-test . This is all I can say . as there should not be any thing that has fried at all . I Just do not get it myself . I wish you luck I do feel bad for you and what you are going through trust me . I hate to see any thing like this happen to any one . I am only trying to help you the best way I know how .
> I am sorry . And I DO hope you can get this all worked out .



I don't have to prove anything to you.  

You certainly did call me a liar.

Thankfully this forum has an ignore option.


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## trickson (Mar 30, 2011)

PopcornMachine said:


> I don't have to prove anything to you.
> 
> You certainly did call me a liar.
> 
> Thankfully this forum has an ignore option.



Ok then I am done here . Good luck to you .


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## PopcornMachine (Mar 30, 2011)

trickson said:


> Ok then I am done here . Good luck to you .



who cares.


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## trickson (Mar 30, 2011)

PopcornMachine said:


> who cares.



With an attitude like this towards members here you will see little to no help . 
I can see that you are angry and upset but I did not cause your problem I have however given you full support and help in return you are now giving me an attitude . Hence you will see no more help from me from here on out .


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## Deleted member 74752 (Mar 30, 2011)

20mmrain said:


> Shit I use Fesser Red right now does it really cause a problem over time?



The red is the only one I have ever seen break down and leave sediments. All the others have been fine.


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## 20mmrain (Mar 30, 2011)

rickss69 said:


> The red is the only one I have ever seen break down and leave sediments. All the others have been fine.



Thanks sorry didn't mean to highjack the thread just thought maybe it might be smart to switch then. thanks for the information bud.


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## yogurt_21 (Mar 30, 2011)

been a long time since I've had a leak in a water cooling system, plenty with aquariums but I'm less careful with those lol.

I swapped to screw clamps years ago and ever since haven't had any leaks. 

http://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies/prod1;ft1_plumbing_accessories;pgwf2480.html

now the whole in the rig out of the rig to me doesn't matter as much as making sure you test with the rig off. I always use ac pumps so that wasn't an issue for me. For those that use dc they just jumper the psu and have nothing else plugged in. 

I always leak test for 24 hours just to be sure. Lose your rig for a day to prevent losing your rig for a month. 


but it sounds like that's what the op was doing. To me it just seems like he tried firing it up too soon. Even if you're 100% sure that you've got it dry leave the rig setting for 24 hours (after you're done drying it) prior to firing it up. I made this mistake with a 939 rig after a fire (was off at the time but did get hit by a huge wave of water when the fire dept was putting the fire out). i thought it was 100% dry and it wasn't. Thank fully it only fried the sound and forced the memory to single channel memory mode. (epox board, man I miss them) out side of sound and memory channel it still ran fine. It seems you might have fried something more important with yours.


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## Solaris17 (Mar 30, 2011)

i dumped feaser blue all over my x58 once i wiped it up blow dried it and it started right back up. its conductivity is low. you lucked out your stuff should be fine.


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## PopcornMachine (Mar 30, 2011)

I obviously screwed up here.  Hence the purpose of the thread.

Weather I did not clear it properly, or did not have it completely dry I do not know.  Looked dry to me.  Never done this before.

That's why I'm asking.  Sorry to waste everyone's time.


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## Thrackan (Mar 31, 2011)

So, did you do a re-check on the board? Or is it definitely dead?


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## PopcornMachine (Mar 31, 2011)

Thrackan said:


> So, did you do a re-check on the board? Or is it definitely dead?



Tried another battery and a few things.  No luck.

Do I get another board?  Is my CPU ok?




Prehaps I will put my 6950 in my Q6600 for now and wait for what bulldozer brings.


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## n-ster (Mar 31, 2011)

PopcornMachine said:


> Tried another battery and a few things.  No luck.
> 
> Do I get another board?  Is my CPU ok?
> 
> ...



I can sell you my AsRock X58 Extreme... It's been sitting there doing nothing for months, no, SEMESTERS lol. I bought it off PaulieG around August IIRC, and a few months after, I replaced it by an X58A-UD3R. been trying to get rid of it

I think you should either sell your remaining stuff (IF you can test it beforehand) or just buy a used mobo that isn't too expensive (pssst, I hear n-ster could sell you one). I think my mobo fits the bill perfectly, cheap in price but does the job nicely performance-wise


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## brandonwh64 (Mar 31, 2011)

I also have a EVGA X58 SLI LE board if u dont get N-Sters board. 80$ shipped IYI


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## n-ster (Mar 31, 2011)

brandonwh64 said:


> I also have a EVGA X58 SLI LE board if u dont get N-Sters board. 80$ shipped IYI



I can't compete with that


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## PopcornMachine (Mar 31, 2011)

n-ster said:


> I can sell you my AsRock X58 Extreme... It's been sitting there doing nothing for months, no, SEMESTERS lol. I bought it off PaulieG around August IIRC, and a few months after, I replaced it by an X58A-UD3R. been trying to get rid of it
> 
> I think you should either sell your remaining stuff (IF you can test it beforehand) or just buy a used mobo that isn't too expensive (pssst, I hear n-ster could sell you one). I think my mobo fits the bill perfectly, cheap in price but does the job nicely performance-wise





brandonwh64 said:


> I also have a EVGA X58 SLI LE board if u dont get N-Sters board. 80$ shipped IYI



Thanks very much guys, but this is a micro-ATX system/case.

I'm flexible however, and will consider your generous offers as I plan which way to go from here.


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## brandonwh64 (Mar 31, 2011)

PopcornMachine said:


> Thanks very much guys, but this is a micro-ATX system/case.
> 
> I'm flexible however, and will consider your generous offers as I plan which way to go from here.



I would trade you cases  ive wanted a vulcan for a while


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## PopcornMachine (Mar 31, 2011)

brandonwh64 said:


> I would trade you cases  ive wanted a vulcan for a while



I'm gonna keep my Vulcan.  I like it. 

One day, the Blue Vulcan will live again!


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## brandonwh64 (Mar 31, 2011)

PopcornMachine said:


> I'm gonna keep my Vulcan.  I like it.
> 
> One day, the Blue Vulcan will live again!



I will buy a vulcan soon. i may sell that evga board and pick up one


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## Wile E (Apr 1, 2011)

trickson said:


> No just moving the WB with hose clamps on the barb's / fittings will not cause new leaks , That is if they are secure and on right there is no way .
> I have had my water cooling setup for years now and not ONCE have I had a leak any were . I do not know what it is with people and there water cooling setup's leaking . I have 2 rads connected with a res and a CPU WB . I have yet to see any leaks at any time .
> It is so easy not to get any leaks when you take the time to do it right .
> 
> ...



When you move a loop, the tubing bends, and can cause pressure buildup in certain parts of the loop forcing water around a seal. If your loop is constructed in such a way that you can uncap the res to move it, this isn't a problem, but if you can't it's easy to spring a leak. The other way to spring a leak by moving a loop is when a fitting ends up spinning a little and loosening. That's what happened to me the last time I moved a loop. The fitting on my DD 4870x2 block spun just enough to drip.

If you build the loop and test it in the exact position you are going to use it, it eliminates these possibilities altogether. The best way to test something is always in the position it's going to be used.


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## Thrackan (Apr 1, 2011)

Wile E said:


> When you move a loop, the tubing bends, and can cause pressure buildup in certain parts of the loop forcing water around a seal. If your loop is constructed in such a way that you can uncap the res to move it, this isn't a problem, but if you can't it's easy to spring a leak. The other way to spring a leak by moving a loop is when a fitting ends up spinning a little and loosening. That's what happened to me the last time I moved a loop. The fitting on my DD 4870x2 block spun just enough to drip.
> 
> If you build the loop and test it in the exact position you are going to use it, it eliminates these possibilities altogether. The best way to test something is always in the position it's going to be used.



True. I did a double test on my first loop. First all the equipment outside the case, then I installed everything inside the case and tested again.


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