# Delid 7700K and applying CLU + results



## fullinfusion (Mar 17, 2017)

I'm in the process of saturating my water loop to record the temperature of this hot bugger of a cpu.

Ok I've got the just of the de-lidding part and cleaning the tim off and also the gasket. I glue the gasket because I'm a stickler for perfection plus why not?


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## peche (Mar 17, 2017)

Why glue back IHS, not neccesary... 

for CPU bare Die you will need liquid metal, dont use any other solution there, will screw your temps even better, so lets iron the things here, 
1. you must delidd, recommended method: Razor blade, be wise, dont use vice hammer method, its way to dangerous...
2. clean all glue leftovers... also TIM present there... if possible use isopropyl alcohol, 
3. when everything its clean, like a mirror, you might: apply liquid metal to bare die... sit processor without his  I.H.S., when processor its on its correct place you finally put lid over die, leaving it as you got it when purchased, be careful when placing lid back, close the socket clamp and call it done!




 

Regards,


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## sneekypeet (Mar 17, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> I need help and or advice on how do I know the exact position the IHS when I glue it back together.



Unless you are super anal in the cleaning, it is highly likely that you will see a ghost of the old epoxy left on the green PCB to help with aligning the IHS. Depends on where you read, but many say to just put the CPU in the socket, add TIM to the die, and set the IHS on it and lock the socket clamp on it. Have not done this myself, just passing on what I have read prior to this.


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## fullinfusion (Mar 17, 2017)

I used the razor blade method and took only a few min to pop it off.

Ok I cleaned it up as best as I could without scratching the pcb. I took a fine Sharpie marker and traced the outline, I used the ArctiClean 2 part cleaner.

I noticed that with the lid off the pcb was convexing upwards, so anyways after all was clean I used Gelid Extreme paste and did a real thin even spread over the die.

Dropped in into the socket, took the IHS and used my marking as a guide and then tried to clamp it in place but the dam thing would slide downwards from the sockets clamp.

A few adjustments and I got it bang on.  I then put the water block on and tightened it all the way down as normal.

Now the lid's glue can cure as is, and I am anal about perfection but lacking a proper clamp to let the silicone dry I did what I thought was best.

And it posted.. I saturated the loop for 2 15 min Realbench stress runs for a base line and after the remount I did the same.

Only difference is a +5c ambient room temp with the dam sun poking through the window but all in all I'm happy.

before de-lid

66-67-64-65c

After de-lid

59-61-56-58

So a difference of -7c -6c -8c -7c

Could it have been better? I'm sure it could've if I used liquid metal but I used what I had laying around. Plus a few heat cycles I'm sure the temp's will be lower yet.


























BEFORE





AFTER


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## jboydgolfer (Mar 17, 2017)

weird that your minimums are lower before delidding.. or is it? or is that just warm up showing in the temps?


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## fullinfusion (Mar 17, 2017)

jboydgolfer said:


> weird that your minimums are lower before delidding.. or is it? or is that just warm up showing in the temps?


It was at start up the min was lower and the room was cooler is why..

That's one thing I couldn't control was the ambient temperature as I was focused in the job at hand and wasn't thinking it was warming up in here.

Tomorrow after the gasket is cured I'll be pulling the block to check the spread on the tim.


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## FireFox (Mar 17, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> before de-lid
> 
> 66-67-64-65c
> 
> ...


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## sneekypeet (Mar 17, 2017)

Knoxx29 said:


>



I have to agree here! Not worth all the effort for just 7 degrees at max. Might be why so many are using liquid metal paste though over the usual TIM offerings.


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## jboydgolfer (Mar 17, 2017)

I think for a lot of people it's not so much in the numbers as much as it is "the thing to do". Personally I've never done it nor would I , not even if it cut 20° off my max.  But I suppose this is the nature of the enthusiast beast


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## FireFox (Mar 17, 2017)

I don't understand why you were in such a hurry to delid if you didn't have the adequate Thermal paste =  *Coollaboratory Liquid or Grizzly
*


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## peche (Mar 17, 2017)

noticed a big drop on my 3770... never goes up to 59C even on stress tests... 

Regards,


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## EarthDog (Mar 17, 2017)

I think he said ambient were different.. so, keep that in mind (1:1 C)


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## fullinfusion (Mar 17, 2017)

sneekypeet said:


> I have to agree here! Not worth all the effort for just 7 degrees at max. Might be why so many are using liquid metal paste though over the usual TIM offerings.


Yes that's true but it was an experiment, I can honestly say I did it, I can re-do it and if one never tries they sit on the fence wondering and just watch life pass them on by..

And @Knoxx29 it's easy sitting behind a keyboard and  at me, You go on about how cool your system runs but you say...

I'm not using my water chiller, how do we all know that??

Did you de-lid yours?

And who said I was in a hurry?


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## peche (Mar 17, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> Did you de-lid yours?


yes it is... 7700K delidded, also 3770k he had was delidded,


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## Hood (Mar 17, 2017)

So with the 5c difference in ambient, you're getting a drop of 12c - not bad.  With Liquid Ultra others have dropped 20c. I would spend the $13 and get the best - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...atory_liquid_ultra-_-23K-000B-00001-_-Product


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## fullinfusion (Mar 17, 2017)

Hood said:


> So with the 5c difference in ambient, you're getting a drop of 12c - not bad.  With Liquid Ultra others have dropped 20c. I would spend the $13 and get the best - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...atory_liquid_ultra-_-23K-000B-00001-_-Product


See I'm running the same as Knox and same clocks, voltage and yet my mobo is reporting 50-51c but yet real temp is showing 61c so what gives?

I can honestly say by touching the loop and block and feeling the air coming off the rad it is indeed a lot lower then yesterday so I'm stumped..


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## Aenra (Mar 17, 2017)

@Knoxx29 before de-lidding you'd had the temps i am having on mine right now, at the same frequency. Obviously different chip, but seeing them made me wonder; considering i'm using a stupid Corsair AIO (all in my specs) and i got double the cores at said same frequency, does it mean i should be happy getting low thirties when at low load?
Was like low twenties despite the OC, but after sorting the RAM out, +0.35 vccsa + 1.44 DRAM voltage, we erm, kinda went upwards pretty fast. Right now for example am at 29, core always, not package. Later in the day i'm pretty sure i'll be up to my usual 30-34.

(say something positive, yes. But also don't lie. lol)

Am worried about the summer.. right now is.. right now. Gotta plan for a full 10C upwards come the time. Edit: long live AC units. My 9370 and the AC were like best mates, lotta love, lol


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## fullinfusion (Mar 17, 2017)

Aenra said:


> @Knoxx29 before de-lidding you'd had the temps i am having on mine right now. Obviously different chip, but seeing them made me wonder; considering i'm using a stupid Corsair AIO (all in my sig), does it mean i should be happy getting low thirties when at low load?
> 
> (say something positive, yes. But also don't lie. lol)
> 
> Am worried about the summer.. right now is.. right now. Gotta plan for a full 10C upwards come the time.


But then again he's on a Z170 where I'm on a new Z270 and only 2 bios's are out and I'm sure a sensor is fucked up or ASUS have cranked the volteges up on me..

I'm not familiar with this board yet and what voltages can be turned down, so i'll give him a tiny benefit of the doubt but not that much.

I need to go check other sites out where big balls don't matter, where ppl will actually help with voltages, Like Dog said to a fellow clocker to go check his site out as theres heaps of info there un like here.


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## Aenra (Mar 18, 2017)

I think we had a communication breakdown here 
(it's always the same)

You probably mistook my question to Knoxx as a statement or a (in)direct comparison between either one of us, none of which is the case. My fault regardless, as i shouldn't have intervened at all; end of the day, am on a different chip. So my bad either way.
As to helping, am thinking it's more of a gultural gap/misunderstanding than any actual unwillingness. They are both (knoxx and earthdog) pretty quick to respond when asked and not just in this thread, i mean generally.

But either way, research is research, yeah. You could have done more reading first/elsewhere, but that applies to everything. As to voltages, well, one assumes you'll find more on OCing in an OC-focused site than in a general tech site, goes without saying


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## sneekypeet (Mar 18, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> Yes that's true but it was an experiment, I can honestly say I did it, I can re-do it and if one never tries they sit on the fence wondering and just watch



I didn't mean it as a kick in the balls, I just think you can do better.


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## erocker (Mar 18, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> See I'm running the same as Knox and same clocks, voltage and yet my mobo is reporting 50-51c but yet real temp is showing 61c so what gives?


I think a metal based thermal compound will bring things up to snuff.  Gelid is good for IHS to cooler, but for a bare die, the metal stuff (like the Grizzly stuff and Coolabratory stuff) it makes a pretty big difference.


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## jboydgolfer (Mar 18, 2017)

Aenra said:


> i'm using a stupid Corsair



 I run custom and all in one loops and I have to say some of the best numbers I've got personally were from corsair all in ones.  My H110i GTX  is a beast, What all in one are you running from corsair ? Never mind I'm on mobile so I couldn't see your system specs until I turn my phone sideways .


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## jaggerwild (Mar 18, 2017)

Realtemp never reports actual temps, no software will report actual voltage or temps its a given fact. You want actual temps buy a temperature prob, even then they will not be precise.


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## FireFox (Mar 18, 2017)

Aenra said:


> @Knoxx29 before de-lidding you'd had the temps i am having on mine right now,



How do you know my temps before De-lidding




fullinfusion said:


> Did you de-lid yours?


https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/...uces-temps-by-30c.228763/page-10#post-3593651




fullinfusion said:


> I'm not using my water chiller, how do we all know that??





 

 





fullinfusion said:


> See I'm running the same as Knox and same clocks, voltage





I don't see anything


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## Aenra (Mar 18, 2017)

@Knoxx29 i thought the pics you posted earlier were yours, lol.. showing an i7 7700k "before delidd" running at 4.5MHz at 30+ - 35 c? That wasn't your chip, lol?
My apologies if so. Though question still stands.


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## Tallencor (Mar 18, 2017)

This is exciting stuff.
Was going to attempt this myself a couple yrs back with my ivy but was talked out of it by @Vario glad I didn't at the time due to lack of funds to replace. Was going to vice and hammer it lol.Thanks Vario for that. But man do I want to try at some point. Watching this thread. I'd be interested to see what happens if you do decide to go with liquid metal.


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## MrGenius (Mar 18, 2017)

Always liquid metal under the IHS. It's the most critical heat transfer junction/point. Why use anything but the best you can buy there? Well...unless you plan to LN2/DICE it. In which case you probably shouldn't.


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## terroralpha (Mar 18, 2017)

sneekypeet said:


> I have to agree here! Not worth all the effort for just 7 degrees at max. Might be why so many are using liquid metal paste though over the usual TIM offerings.



I think most people do it just for the sake of doing it. I could have easily water cooled my entire rig for $200, with a corsair AIO cooler for the CPU and EVGA "hybrid" kit for my GPU. the temps would have been only 5-10*C more. but I chose to drop north of $600 and waste 2 days of my life building a custom loop. but I had fun doing it, and I like the results.


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## Hood (Mar 18, 2017)

jaggerwild said:


> Realtemp never reports actual temps, no software will report actual voltage or temps its a given fact. You want actual temps buy a temperature prob, even then they will not be precise.


RealTemp has never been accurate for me, I go by the temps in AIDA64 stress test, which seem right, because when stress testing a high overclock, my system will bluescreen as maximum CPU core temps approach 90c (as it should).  Also great for checking fan and water pump speeds, voltages, clock speeds, etc.


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## Mussels (Mar 18, 2017)

as someone who has delidded, watch your temps over time. Mine would slowly creep up as the TIM bled out inside the IHS, and i had to use liquid metal to stop the thermal creep.


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## EarthDog (Mar 18, 2017)

Wrong paste = that happening.


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## peche (Mar 18, 2017)

erocker said:


> I think a metal based thermal compound will bring things up to snuff.


yes it its, there several articles about delid and the reasons why you must use liquid metal, 




Tallencor said:


> This is exciting stuff.
> Was going to attempt this myself a couple yrs back with my ivy but was talked out of it by @Vario glad I didn't at the time due to lack of funds to replace. Was going to vice and hammer it lol.Thanks Vario for that. But man do I want to try at some point. Watching this thread. I'd be interested to see what happens if you do decide to go with liquid metal.


i did delid, @Knoxx29 was the one that supports the process, learned a lot from him,



MrGenius said:


> Always liquid metal under the IHS. It's the most critical heat transfer junction/point. Why use anything but the best you can buy there? Well...unless you plan to LN2/DICE it. In which case you probably shouldn't.


pretty much on the point, 



Mussels said:


> as someone who has delidded, watch your temps over time. Mine would slowly creep up as the TIM bled out inside the IHS, and i had to use liquid metal to stop the thermal creep.


you mean that normal TIM, for example arctic mx 4 used @ CPU die will make it bleed and them screw your temps?



EarthDog said:


> Wrong paste = that happening.


Simple...






Regards,


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## fullinfusion (Mar 18, 2017)

erocker said:


> I think a metal based thermal compound will bring things up to snuff.  Gelid is good for IHS to cooler, but for a bare die, the metal stuff (like the Grizzly stuff and Coolabratory stuff) it makes a pretty big difference.


I'll order liquid metal since it be easy to pop the cap back off.


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## eidairaman1 (Mar 18, 2017)

Did you lap the hsf?


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## peche (Mar 18, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> I'll order liquid metal since it be easy to pop the cap back off.


beware, there are a few scenarios were the liquid metal tends to bond ... so when poping out might scratch cores, use collaboratory liquid ultra, issues are somewhere around with collab pro

Regards,


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## FireFox (Mar 18, 2017)

Today i have noticed something that makes me think that my WC loop is wrong.


As showed in the pic below the loop goes this way:  Chiller------> Water block -------->Reservoir------->240 Rad-------->Chiller


So, what is cooling the CPU?

there is not Rad between the chiller and CPU, what the 240 Rad is cooling?, nothing?, wouldn't be better to have a Rad between chiller and CPU?


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## EarthDog (Mar 18, 2017)

First... res should be before the pump... feeds the pump..

2nd, loop order really doesn't matter at all. With a properly flowing and radded loop, temps within the loop shouldnt be more than 1-2C off at any point in the loop.

Please have a read a few times, some of these links...: http://www.overclockers.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/71-Water-Cooling


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## FireFox (Mar 18, 2017)

EarthDog said:


> First... res should be before the pump... feeds the pump..



I know that.

I don't have Pump and Res separated


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## EarthDog (Mar 18, 2017)

Good to know...glad you typed that.


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## FireFox (Mar 18, 2017)

EarthDog said:


> Good to know...glad you typed that.



What happens if i add a Rad between Chiller and Cpu?


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## peche (Mar 18, 2017)

@Knoxx29 check your phone 


Spoiler


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## fullinfusion (Mar 18, 2017)

there ordered this so hopefully all goes well, it the right stuff?

Also any tips on spreading the metal around the die?








peche said:


> beware, there are a few scenarios were the liquid metal tends to bond ... so when poping out might scratch cores, use collaboratory liquid ultra, issues are somewhere around with collab pro
> 
> Regards,


I wont be going bare back


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## EarthDog (Mar 18, 2017)

Knoxx29 said:


> What happens if i add a Rad between Chiller and Cpu?


Nothing...at best 1-2c improvement...


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## FireFox (Mar 18, 2017)

EarthDog said:


> Nothing...at best 1-2c improvement...



With a 1080 Rad just 1-2c?


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## EarthDog (Mar 18, 2017)

I thought you were moving it in the loop, not adding (missed that word...ADD, lol!).. as far as temps... who knows... a couple C. Nkt sure I would bother with a chiller in the loop though...


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## FireFox (Mar 18, 2017)

EarthDog said:


> Nkt sure I would bother with a chiller in the loop though...



Once again the Chiller

I have said millions of time that the Chiller it's in idle mode = it's not cooling the water at all 

Say/mention Chiller once again and you will see


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## Finners (Mar 18, 2017)

Mussels said:


> as someone who has delidded, watch your temps over time. Mine would slowly creep up as the TIM bled out inside the IHS, and i had to use liquid metal to stop the thermal creep.



Which paste did you use? Think I have made a mistake and used Gelid extreme under the IHS. Was worried of using liquid metal as the 4770k I have has little VRM's next to the die that i didnt want to get any conductive metal on.


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## EarthDog (Mar 18, 2017)

Knoxx29 said:


> Once again the Chiller
> 
> I have said millions of time that the Chiller it's in idle mode = it's not cooling the water at all
> 
> Say/mention Chiller once again and you will see


If You Aren't Using it... Get It Out Of The loop.. Sell It To me.


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## MrGenius (Mar 18, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> there ordered this so hopefully all goes well, it the right stuff?
> 
> Also any tips on spreading the metal around the die?


Good choices. CLU spreads very easily. That's one of the advantages of using it.


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## fullinfusion (Mar 20, 2017)

What do you guys think of this, after the liquid metal is applied to the chip and to the under side of the IHS I place the chip in the socket and since I have a marker around the lid on the PCB for proper alignment I just lower it in place.. Oh and I'd have taken the Intel clamp right off the board just for now.. OK I gasket the lid and place it on the chip. Now I'd just lower the water block straight down over the CPU and tighten down the block over night to let the gasket cure.. Once morning comes I just remove the block and install the socket clamp and lock it in place..

Any thoughts if this would be a problem? The rig would be on its side of course and no Tim would.be applied to the block.. It's just a thought on a way to clamp it down and not fuck with the locking mechanism pushing the IHS around while putting it in place.

Those fine lads from Ireland which own memoryC dot com have fedx'd overnight so I'll have it all tomorrow..


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## fullinfusion (Mar 22, 2017)

Tallencor said:


> This is exciting stuff.
> Was going to attempt this myself a couple yrs back with my ivy but was talked out of it by @Vario glad I didn't at the time due to lack of funds to replace. Was going to vice and hammer it lol.Thanks Vario for that. But man do I want to try at some point. Watching this thread. I'd be interested to see what happens if you do decide to go with liquid metal.


I got the CLU metal and grizzly kryonaut with me now and will have it installed tonight but won't fire it up till mid morning so I can let the sealer (gasket) cure for a bit.

I'll tag you when I post some numbers tomorrow and also let you know how the pressure fit worked out. I'll just need to YT some vids on the best way to apply the metal.

 Any advice offered here on jist to ise on the die or both? Mine you there is no gap between the lid and die so just the die or ...


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## fullinfusion (Mar 23, 2017)

peche said:


> Why glue back IHS, not neccesary...
> 
> for CPU bare Die you will need liquid metal, dont use any other solution there, will screw your temps even better, so lets iron the things here,
> 1. you must delidd, recommended method: Razor blade, be wise, dont use vice hammer method, its way to dangerous...
> ...


I don't use isopropyl alcohol, I use acticlean cleaner and part 2 for metal/ die prep.. Does 100% deeper clean than ISO does plus the shit on the market these days is just that.. Shit! I used to get the good stuff @ 99% but now all we can get over the counter is 90% and it shows by leaving water behind...

You can use ISO to clean but the acticlean prep when wiped off is like a dam magnet how it just grabs the cloth. It's that clean so hopefully the CLU sticks and isn't a bugger to spread.

Any tips on how much to use on the kaby die?

Also the skylake issue with the gab between the chip and IHS isn't a problem with kaby, well mine that is and not sure if Intel finally machined it properly this time but just used shitty paste and called it done...

Is it worth doing the under side of the IHS as well? I actually used a micrometer and sized it up to the original paste imprint and scored the bottom of the IHS with it as a template if ever I need to coat the under side of the lid.
So thinner the better?



sneekypeet said:


> I didn't mean it as a kick in the balls, I just think you can do better.


Sorry @sneekypeet I didn't mean anything by the comment, and your right, I can do better. It was just a test to see the difference in Intel's paste and the EC extreme paste I had on hand.


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## peche (Mar 23, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> Any tips on how much to use on the kaby die?


just a drop, i love Coollab ultra, easier to spread, a thin layer will be fine, just avoid over paste or movin lid when already applied liquid metal, 



fullinfusion said:


> I don't use isopropyl alcohol, I use acticlean cleaner and part 2 for metal/ die prep.. Does 100% deeper clean than ISO does plus the shit on the market these days is just that.. Shit! I used to get the good stuff @ 99% but now all we can get over the counter is 90% and it shows by leaving water behind...
> 
> You can use ISO to clean but the acticlean prep when wiped off is like a dam magnet how it just grabs the cloth. It's that clean so hopefully the CLU sticks and isn't a bugger to spread.


well i ran off arctic clean last year, but a friend gifted me a big bottle of some ether and iso alcohol, so for the moment im fine of this supply, getting myself a arctic clean kit will a fool idea since the stack i have does the work flawless, '



fullinfusion said:


> Is it worth doing the under side of the IHS as well?


what exactly you mean ?


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## fullinfusion (Mar 23, 2017)

peche said:


> just a drop, i love Coollab ultra, easier to spread, a thin layer will be fine, just avoid over paste or movin lid when already applied liquid metal,
> 
> 
> well i ran off arctic clean last year, but a friend gifted me a big bottle of some ether and iso alcohol, so for the moment im fine of this supply, getting myself a arctic clean kit will a fool idea since the stack i have does the work flawless, '
> ...


I use the CLU on the chip and do I also add some under the lid?


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## peche (Mar 23, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> I use the CLU on the chip and do I also add some under the lid?


coollab will used only at CPU die when you already delidded, over the IHS and between cooler you are free to use what ever you want, for example mine have CLU at Die, between IHS and cooler im using arctic MX 4


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## fullinfusion (Mar 23, 2017)

peche said:


> coollab will used only at CPU die when you already delidded, over the IHS and between cooler you are free to use what ever you want, for example mine have CLU at Die, between IHS and cooler im using arctic MX 4


Yes I know but should I put some CLU under the lid too?

I'm putting it on the die and should I also put a thin layer under the lid is what I'm asking?

I got a tube of Kryonaut for the top of the IHS


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## peche (Mar 23, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> Yes I know but should I put some CLU under the lid too?


not necessary, well at least i haven't done it on previous successfully delidded processor that are doing ultra fine on this  moment!

Regards,


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## FireFox (Mar 23, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> Yes I know but should I put some CLU under the lid too?


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## fullinfusion (Mar 23, 2017)

Knoxx29 said:


>


How about helping out and leave the silly slap alone?
I'm prepped now just wonder the amount to use


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## peche (Mar 23, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> How about helping out and leave the silly slap alone?


well said...



fullinfusion said:


> I'm prepped now just wonder the amount to use


Beam sized dot in the middle, spread it with a q-tip only at CPU die

Regards,


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## fullinfusion (Mar 23, 2017)

peche said:


> well said...
> 
> 
> Beam sized dot in the middle, spread it with a q-tip only at CPU die
> ...


Done thank you..


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## FireFox (Mar 23, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> I'm prepped now just wonder the amount to use












It's not in English but it will gives you an idea.


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## fullinfusion (Mar 23, 2017)

Knoxx29 said:


> It's not in English but it will gives you an idea.


Yes I seen that one thanks thou,

I was worried at first as it wouldn't stick coming out of the syringe but once it did it spread like nothing.


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## FireFox (Mar 23, 2017)

I have missed some posts, did you glue back the IHS?


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## fullinfusion (Mar 23, 2017)

Knoxx29 said:


> I have missed some posts, did you glue back the IHS?


yes let me show you what I did this afternoon..


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## peche (Mar 23, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> yes let me show you what I did this afternoon..


thats completely unecesary, if already done it, dont worry, if not, dont bother to paste it back ...

Regards,


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## fullinfusion (Mar 23, 2017)

Ok remember I said the pcb warped after I delidded it?

well the glue I used held up... look how straight the pcb is, you can tell its glued from the red gasket..







My tools
*





Second Delid











Notice anything missing? lol






NO RETAINING LOCK!




*


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## FireFox (Mar 23, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> Ok remember I said the pcb warped after I delidded it?
> 
> well the glue I used held up... look how straight the pcb is, you can tell its glued from the red gasket..
> 
> ...



Amazing job, well done.

Waiting for Intel new CPUs to sell mine, maybe i will glue the IHS.


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## peche (Mar 23, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> Ok remember I said the pcb warped after I delidded it?
> 
> well the glue I used held up... look how straight the pcb is, you can tell its glued from the red gasket..
> 
> ...


well nothing moar to say!
those photos are the ones you were about to use coollab?

Regards,


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## fullinfusion (Mar 23, 2017)

Thank you, I was waiting to be jumped in the back alley again lol, thanks to you and @peche @erocker @sneekypeet for steering me in the right direction 

If I missed anyone else oh @Tallencor heres your results 








peche said:


> well nothing moar to say!
> those photos are the ones you were about to use coollab?
> 
> Regards,


Yes this is all photos of CLU

I didn't want to screw around with the lid moving so I took the locking mech off and just used the water block to hold it in place since there's no way it can move when lowering it on the chip..

tomorrow Ill take the block off and put the lock back on and check how the grizzly paste spread.


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## peche (Mar 23, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> Yes this is all photos of CLU
> 
> I didn't want to screw around with the lid moving so I took the locking mech off and just used the water block to hold it in place since there's no way it can move when lowering it on the chip..
> 
> tomorrow Ill take the block off and put the lock back on and check how the grizzly paste spread.


great, just be sure dont move to much lid, cuz liquid metal its a little devil sometimes and cannot be steady!



fullinfusion said:


> Thank you, I was waiting to be jumped in the back alley again lol, thanks to you and @peche @erocker @sneekypeet for steering me in the right direction


no need to thank dude! thats the main reason we are here! to do out best to share and help each other! hope your chip will run colder!
Have a great day and if possible a quite nice beer! [or an amazing joint to blaze!]

Regards,


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## fullinfusion (Mar 23, 2017)

peche said:


> no need to thank dude! thats the main reason we are here! to do out best to share and help each other! hope your chip will run colder!
> Have a great day and if possible a quite nice beer! [or an amazing joint to blaze!]
> 
> Regards,


And what I used for glue and how I glued it.






Not the prettiest but it worked


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## peche (Mar 23, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> And what I used for glue and how I glued it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


well, thats an interesting idea to glue back my 3770's lid  in case i need to sell it !


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## fullinfusion (Mar 23, 2017)

peche said:


> well, thats an interesting idea to glue back my 3770's lid  in case i need to sell it !


yeah I thought it be a smoother glue job but the 3cc syringe and big blunt end needle wound work good applying but dam its a bit thick to come out a needle like that..

I was latterly shaking just from the force I had to apply to the plunger to get the adhesive out lol

also be sure to leave a spot with no glue on like in my picture.. It needs a vent hole I guess.


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## peche (Mar 23, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> yeah I thought it be a smoother glue job but the 3cc syringe and big blunt end needle wound work good applying but dam its a bit thick to come out a needle like that..
> 
> I was latterly shaking just from the force I had to apply to the plunger to get the adhesive out lol
> 
> also be sure to leave a spot with no glue on like in my picture.. It needs a vent hole I guess.


will use the idea in a near future, still dont know if i gonna replace my cpu  + ram + motherboard, i was supposed to move to a skylake bassed system, but... 


Regards,


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## fullinfusion (Mar 24, 2017)

I wont complain for being a not as good of chip as @Knoxx29 has...

4.8ghz and she's been working all afternoon and its 24c Ambient room temp with fans on low


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## FireFox (Mar 24, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> I wont complain for being a not as good of chip as @Knoxx29 has...
> 
> 4.8ghz and she's been working all afternoon and its 24c Ambient room temp with fans on low



Don't be silly, those temps are great and the voltage for 4.8 are not that bad, have you tried 1.26V?


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## fullinfusion (Mar 24, 2017)

Knoxx29 said:


> Don't be silly, those temps are great and the voltage for 4.8 are not that bad, have you tried 1.26V?
> 
> 
> View attachment 85433


no but I'm doing this right now and streaming music and watching twitch and creating an image


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## FireFox (Mar 24, 2017)

The good thing about your Machine is that you're using a Z270 Motherboard and the 7700K OC better on it and it uses less voltages.

I will wait for the 300-series Motherboard and for intel new cpus before i decide if upgrade or not.


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## Tallencor (Mar 24, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> no but I'm doing this right now and streaming music and watching twitch and creating an image


Very cool! <-See what i did lol. Time for a new platform so I have a backup just incase. Then ivy delid for a wcg box.
Check Steam


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## EarthDog (Mar 24, 2017)

Knoxx29 said:


> The good thing about your Machine is that you're using a Z270 Motherboard and the 7700K OC better on it and it uses less voltages.


It Does? News to me.

Though, I've only tried it on two z170 boards... vomtage was the same as was overclocking.


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## FireFox (Mar 24, 2017)

EarthDog said:


> It Does? News to me.



But not for me.
As you can see @fullinfusion needs 1.344 volt for 5.1 and my won't even post with 1.344V at 5.1, i have thought that it was my CPU but i have tested it on a Z270 board from a friend of mine and it OC way better, on the Z270 i get it at 5.0 with just 1.31V and in my Z170 i need 1.36V for 5.0.

Can you explain me that?


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## EarthDog (Mar 24, 2017)

1. Depends on the boards used. 
2. What his cpu does has ABSOLUTELY NO BEARING ON YOURS. NONE. 
3. I'm certain you were reading software voltage on two different boards. Software voltage readings, as you likely know, aren't typically accurate.
4. My comparisons were on higher end z170 and z270 boards.

So long as you have the updated bios on z170 it should be well within reach of each other when using a comparable board between chipset to chipset.


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## peche (Mar 24, 2017)

EarthDog said:


> 1. Depends on the boards used.
> 2. What his cpu does has ABSOLUTELY NO BEARING ON YOURS. NONE.
> 3. I'm certain you were reading software voltage on two different boards. Software voltage readings, as you likely know, aren't typically accurate.
> 4. My comparisons were on higher end z170 and z270 boards.
> ...


message wasn't for me, but will help in some settings i
'll try on a new set up 

Regards,


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## FireFox (Mar 24, 2017)

EarthDog said:


> So long as you have the updated bios on z170 it should be well within reach of each other when using a comparable board between chipset to chipset.



And why my Machine won't even boot when i try 5.1GHz on the Maximus VIII Rampage?

Ah, maybe my Motherboard it's not a High end one.

Note: i have tested my CPU on an Asus ROG Maximus IX Formula Gaming and as said before 1.31V was enough while in my Z170 it need 1.36V and on the same Z270 for 5.1GHz 1.35V was enough and in my Z170 1.35V for 5.1GHz as said before won't even post, there should be a logical explanation.


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## EarthDog (Mar 24, 2017)

It's a different board. Different vrm setup..different behavior/end result. Doesn't mean it's the chipset. I'm sharing my experience with it. 

I appreciate you sharing. 

Edit: one thing I did notice on z270, was that the Asus board (apex) needed less voltage than the msi board (Xpower). The Asus had a bios or two out versus the early 1/2 on the msi (board I used for release day review). Perhaps that's part of it? No idea. But again, I didn't see any major difference (attributed to the chipset itself).


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## FireFox (Mar 24, 2017)

EarthDog said:


> It's a different board. Different vrm setup..different behavior/end result. Doesn't mean it's the chipset. I'm sharing my experience with it.
> 
> I appreciate you sharing.
> 
> Edit: one thing I did notice on z270, was that the Asus board (apex) needed less voltage than the msi board (Xpower). The Asus had a bios or two out versus the early 1/2 on the msi (board I used for release day review). Perhaps that's part of it? No idea. But again, I didn't see any major difference (attributed to the chipset itself).



It was said from the beginning that the Motherboards Z270 would be more suitable for the 7xxx serie CPUs.

Maybe i am wrong, i was drunk or i was dreaming

The only way i can use low voltages at 5.0GHz/5.1GHz or 5.3GHZ it's if i disable HT but honestly i don't know if it's a good thing on a 4c CPU.


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## fullinfusion (Mar 25, 2017)

Knoxx29 said:


> It was said from the beginning that the Motherboards Z270 would be more suitable for the 7xxx serie CPUs.
> 
> Maybe i am wrong, i was drunk or i was dreaming
> 
> The only way i can use low voltages at 5.0GHz/5.1GHz or 5.3GHZ it's if i disable HT but honestly i don't know if it's a good thing on a 4c CPU.


No you were right, I read it somewhere else that the 7700K chips would have no problems hitting 5ghz with no sweat on Z270 boards.

You not the first to mention it


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## fullinfusion (Mar 30, 2017)

@manofthem @Norton @Tallencor @stinger608 
Update, I knew I should've did the under side of the lid, and who said....  Hmmm 

Well I say   after seeing this!

And that's what an enthusiast does is trial and error, to do or not to do.. And now only 1 degree  temp across all cores now.

This is what happens when you use CLU just on the die...






This is what it should look like 
Also the lid looks to have a wider girth then the chip does but that's the scotch tape I used to move the excess over and once the tape is removed it matches the die itself.


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## Tallencor (Mar 30, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> @manofthem @Norton @Tallencor
> Update, I knew I should've did the under side of the lid, and who said....  Hmmm
> 
> Well I say   after seeing this!
> ...


Ugh. Is all okay? What made u decide you needed to take a look? Temp?
Looks like it got quite warm in the middle. .....


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## fullinfusion (Mar 30, 2017)

Tallencor said:


> Ugh. Is all okay? What made u decide you needed to take a look? Temp?
> Looks like it got quite warm in the middle. .....


nope from all the looking around online EVERYONE does the chip and under the lid..

temps are much better now and more even.

Think about this, the CLU is kinda hard to attach till you get it to grab, then if there's nothing under the lid what's saying its going to adhere to it properly?

That's what your seeing in the top photo, The CLU didn't adhere to the lid in spots. I know someone is going to come in here and say *** you didn't clean it properly***

Well Yes I did! I 100% guarantee I did.

I've got OCD and It did bother me, so as to the reason I removed the lid to check 

I see its getting better the longer it runs..


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## fullinfusion (Mar 30, 2017)

WOW is all I got to say!

A difference between day and night!


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## Tallencor (Mar 30, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> WOW is all I got to say!
> 
> A difference between day and night!


Congrats man. Well deserved.


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## fullinfusion (Mar 30, 2017)

Tallencor said:


> Congrats man. Well deserved.


Thank you, 5.1ghz and hardly breaking a sweat of 50c right now with an ambient room temp of 19c


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## fullinfusion (Apr 1, 2017)

Sure digging the low temps,

I've been running the past 28 min and counting on just FPU and WOW!!!!

And no hidden water chiller lol, Just poking fun @Knoxx29


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## Tallencor (Apr 1, 2017)

Makes me wonder what they don't just do this from the get go.
Be worth the extra end user cost of 20 bucks for the added $4 manufacturing prosess.


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## manofthem (Apr 1, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> @manofthem @Norton @Tallencor @stinger608
> Update, I knew I should've did the under side of the lid, and who said....  Hmmm
> 
> Well I say   after seeing this!
> ...





fullinfusion said:


> nope from all the looking around online EVERYONE does the chip and under the lid..
> 
> temps are much better now and more even.
> 
> ...




That really is impressive!   You did a great job with that chip, with the OC and with the delidding.  

Interesting that you noticed improvements by hitting under the ihs too instead of just on top of die.  I never did that with mine just on die, but I'll give it a try in the future.  I need to tear down my rig and do a thorough cleaning, and when I do I'll pop the cpu out and try the same process as you.

Glad that beast was crunching for us in the challenge


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## fullinfusion (Apr 1, 2017)

manofthem said:


> That really is impressive!   You did a great job with that chip, with the OC and with the delidding.
> 
> Interesting that you noticed improvements by hitting under the ihs too instead of just on top of die.  I never did that with mine just on die, but I'll give it a try in the future.  I need to tear down my rig and do a thorough cleaning, and when I do I'll pop the cpu out and try the same process as you.
> 
> Glad that beast was crunching for us in the challenge


Yes that's why it bothered me,,, think of it this way, a drop of water bond to a surface without water be a simple process or a drop of water against another drop of water bond easier and faster?!

That's the key, both the lid and die and mate them together.. For running FPU alone is a heater on its own but not no more.. I'm up to 4.9 and only went up a couple degrees in temp.. heck I still have tones of head room..

And yes np on crunching, I'll resume before bed and still churn out some numbers over night and see how she holds up


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## manofthem (Apr 1, 2017)

fullinfusion said:


> Yes that's why it bothered me,,, think of it this way, a drop of water bond to a surface without water be a simple process or a drop of water against another drop of water bond easier and faster?!
> 
> That's the key, both the lid and die and mate them together.. For running FPU alone is a heater on its own but not no more.. I'm up to 4.9 and only went up a couple degrees in temp.. heck I still have tones of head room..
> 
> And yes np on crunching, I'll resume before bed and still churn out some numbers over night and see how she holds up



I hear ya and I'm with you and I'm definitely going to try it when I can. 

I do like your cpu though, fast and cool. Yours at 4.8 runs cooler than my 4770k after delid at 4.3. Thumbs up!  

Great work, and thanks for the great posts in this thread. You covered a lot of ground that will prove to be very helpful and informative for many, including me


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## fullinfusion (Apr 1, 2017)

manofthem said:


> I hear ya and I'm with you and I'm definitely going to try it when I can.
> 
> I do like your cpu though, fast and cool. Yours at 4.8 runs cooler than my 4770k after delid at 4.3. Thumbs up!
> 
> Great work, and thanks for the great posts in this thread. You covered a lot of ground that will prove to be very helpful and informative for many, including me


Thanks Man I appreciate it..


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