# Pump Died!



## angelkiller (Apr 6, 2010)

Ok, I have a Swiftech MCP 350 that has stopped working.

I have even tested the pump with a spare PSU and it still didn't turn on.

*1)* How common is this?

*2)* Is there anything I can do to fix it? I'd prefer not to open it up unless I have to because I'll have to drain my loop.

*3)* If it isn't fixable, what should I replace it with? Pumps are expensive as hell. I need something that won't break the bank and offer at least the same amount of performance. I might be able to pull together $40 or so. I already have a top for the MCP 350, so another DDC would be preferred, unless you guys recommend something else.


This sucks.


----------



## brandonwh64 (Apr 6, 2010)

take the pump apart and were the circuit board is and the wound wire the circles the rotary, check to see if one of the wires came loose of the circuit board.


----------



## overclocking101 (Apr 7, 2010)

dude those DDC's look great but they are terribly un reliable. get a D5. you can buy a cheaper pump to hold you over but it wont last long. the D5's are the most reliable pumps besides the iwaki's hands down. How old is your DDC?? what revision?? can you take it apart and take pics of the pcb please?? the bottom just pops off ans the PCB will be exposed. both side please.  Also if you buy a dofferent pum to hold you over till you can afford the D5 get the EK 4.0 or 2.0

Dont get me wrong the DDC's are the best looking option out there, they have the most available aftermarket parts of any pump but their reliablity is terrible, some of them will run forever others will run for a week and shut down. At one point I bought 5 DDC's 2 died withing a week, 3 lasted till I sold them on here 6 months back or so. at the same time I bought 4 D5's and a D4 all of them are still running to this day to my knowledge. people might flame and get bent over me saying this but just google and look around you will see much more DDC failure then D5/D4 failure. the D4 is the best bang for buck pump but are rare and only available in spurts.


----------



## angelkiller (Apr 7, 2010)

brandonwh64 said:


> take the pump apart and were the circuit board is and the wound wire the circles the rotary, check to see if one of the wires came loose of the circuit board.


Hm. I may not have time for that tonight, but I'll try to do that as soon as I can.


overclocking101 said:


> dude those DDC's look great but they are terribly un reliable. get a D5. you can buy a cheaper pump to hold you over but it wont last long. the D5's are the most reliable pumps besides the iwaki's hands down. How old is your DDC?? what revision?? can you take it apart and take pics of the pcb please?? the bottom just pops off ans the PCB will be exposed. both side please.  Also if you buy a dofferent pum to hold you over till you can afford the D5 get the EK 4.0 or 2.0
> 
> Dont get me wrong the DDC's are the best looking option out there, they have the most available aftermarket parts of any pump but their reliablity is terrible, some of them will run forever others will run for a week and shut down. At one point I bought 5 DDC's 2 died withing a week, 3 lasted till I sold them on here 6 months back or so. at the same time I bought 4 D5's and a D4 all of them are still running to this day to my knowledge. people might flame and get bent over me saying this but just google and look around you will see much more DDC failure then D5/D4 failure. the D4 is the best bang for buck pump but are rare and only available in spurts.


I have no idea about the age or revision of my pump. I bought it used from a forum member. I do have pics of the PCB, which had the revision number, but they're on the computer that the pump was in. 

I actually ended up with the DDC mainly because of cost. It was a good pump and a good price. I didin't know they were known as not reliable.

A D5 looks nice. But that's sooooooo expensive. I found this guy selling MCP 350s for ~$30 shipped. At that price I could get two MCP 350's for the same price as 1 D5. If one of the MCP pumps failed, I'd have a replacement. Sorry, it's hard to justify that for me. I wish I had known WC was gonna be this expensive.


----------



## overclocking101 (Apr 7, 2010)

lol not just WC computer in general are expensive. hell at that price you would be dumb not to get those DDC's even if they die in a month.   the D5's are more expensive because they are more durable and built to last longer while performing cooler and better.  and technically its not all DDC's that are very unreliable it is certain pcb revisions/impeller revisions. and the combo and 3.2 with the older impeller will wear the bearing out faster, and 2.5 with a newer impeller will perform better but the pcb's die faster.

EDIT: those are the DDC 1's. DO NOT buy them UNLESS A: you are knowledgable about rewiring the pump, b: you expect a short life span with them after that modding is compete. they do not make the adapters for them anymore there fore you will have to rewire them meaning you will either overvolt them or undervolt them makig them die real fast or perform like crap or both. sorry m8. you can ignore it if you want and get them anyways or not your choice. imo spend more on a D5 now or spend less more times and end up paying more in the end.

EDIT2: on that same forum there are a couple guys selling D5's for 70 shipped or less, go with it man you wont regret it


----------



## angelkiller (Apr 7, 2010)

overclocking101 said:


> lol not just WC computer in general are expensive. hell at that price you would be dumb not to get those DDC's even if they die in a month.   the D5's are more expensive because they are more durable and built to last longer while performing cooler and better.  and technically its not all DDC's that are very unreliable it is certain pcb revisions/impeller revisions. and the combo and 3.2 with the older impeller will wear the bearing out faster, and 2.5 with a newer impeller will perform better but the pcb's die faster.
> 
> EDIT: those are the DDC 1's. DO NOT buy them UNLESS A: you are knowledgable about rewiring the pump, b: you expect a short life span with them after that modding is compete. they do not make the adapters for them anymore there fore you will have to rewire them meaning you will either overvolt them or undervolt them makig them die real fast or perform like crap or both. sorry m8. you can ignore it if you want and get them anyways or not your choice. imo spend more on a D5 now or spend less more times and end up paying more in the end.




Can you explain the wiring issue? Why won't they work as they are?


*Edit:* I found a MCP 655 Vario for $60 shipped. Jump on it?


----------



## Sasqui (Apr 7, 2010)

Bummer

No doubt a 350 pump failing is quite rare.  Hope you didn't have any system damage!

I posted this thread about buying failed 655 pumps:  http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=117769

Saw 1 spam PM from that, no other responses!  Speculate they don't give up much either.

For what it's worth, get a system controller that has a thermal probe on the waterblock, Koolance is a good place to look - haven't looked lately but about $30 will do it.  It'll shut the system down if the block external gets too hot.  THAT is the most reliable way to determine if something is wrong.  I've got one and it's saved my ass a few times.

I'll PM you about a pump.


----------



## angelkiller (Apr 7, 2010)

Weird stuff. So I come home today, and I hear running water, and I know my computer is off. Turns out that I left the pump connected to the space PSU overnight. BUT I didn't hear it this morning. So that means that the pump was connected to the PSU for at least 12 hours and didn't turn on. But somewhere between hour 15 and hour 21, it somehow decided to work again. Excited, I turn on my computer. Windows freezes during boot multiple times.I was was so busy trying to get Windows to boot into safe mode that I forgot to check if the pump was running! It wasn't! And my blocks were HOT!!  

So after that, I'm like fuckit and I took it apart.




























If you want the high res or a different angle let me know.

Fixable?


----------



## angelkiller (Apr 7, 2010)

Pump failure is scary. I have lost a huge amount of confidence in WCing now. I don't think I'm going to be running my rig 24/7 anymore until I can get some kind of auto shutdown. I don't know if computers automatically shut down in the case of excess heat. I konw they throttle and all. Whatever.

I'm getting a new pump. Here's what I've come up with.

*1)* Another MCP 350 - $25 + shipping.
Seller says this:


> The MCP350s I have are like "new" with the 50K run life still intact. They have not been used. Also, these have the early Phillips IC in them that made the DDC pump very dependable for Laing until they switched the IC to another manufacture due to cost and availability. That's the IC that people can solder to make them into MCP355s.



*2)* Laing D4 non vario - $40 shipped
Seller says this:


> I have barb-modded D4 (650) non-vario. It does as well as the 655 vario. The barb mod is to adapt a G1/4 thread.
> 
> As far as I'm concerned, variois useless. The pumps are virtually silent at all speeds. The spare one is as quiet as the 655 vario I'm using now, which has always and will forever be at full speed



*3)* Swiftech MCP 655 Vario - $60 shipped.
Not much to say about this.


What should I do?
Any advice and/or help is appreciated.


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Apr 7, 2010)

Get a ddc3.2/mcp355 with the blue rotor.The old ones with the black rotor were sometimes unreliable,but the newer orange rotor 3.2 are very reliable.


----------



## sNiPeRbOb (Apr 7, 2010)

I've bought two of the 350's you are talking about getting for @$25 and they are both working great, but a couple words of caution.  They are really loud at 12v, and they do NOT come with any sort of connector.  Just bare wire.


----------



## kenkickr (Apr 7, 2010)

tigger said:


> Get a ddc3.2/mcp355 with the orange rotor.The old ones with the black rotor were sometimes unreliable,but the newer orange rotor 3.2 are very reliable.



Both of my 355's have the blue rotor.  Is there any issues with these?  

To angelkiller, I guess be thankful it was the pump that decided to not work instead instead of getting a leak and water all over the place...I've been there  It sucks when your rig has to be down for awhile but give H2O cooling another chance, it's FUN


----------



## brandonwh64 (Apr 7, 2010)

take this apart as well! what you need is inside.






THIS IS WHAT IT SHOULD LOOK LIKE AFTER THAT!! CHECK WERE THE GREEN WIRE IS WOUND AROUND THE MAGNET THING CONNECTING TO THE BOARD AND SEE IF ANY ONE OF THEM IS BROKE CONNECTION.


----------



## angelkiller (Apr 7, 2010)

tigger said:


> Get a ddc3.2/mcp355 with the orange rotor.The old ones with the black rotor were sometimes unreliable,but the newer orange rotor 3.2 are very reliable.


Those are really hard to find. I haven't seen a MCP 355 on OCN or on [H] for a while.



sNiPeRbOb said:


> I've bought two of the 350's you are talking about getting for @$25 and they are both working great, but a couple words of caution.  They are really loud at 12v, and they do NOT come with any sort of connector.  Just bare wire.


Good to know. Noise is really important to me. My MCP 350 was silent at full speed. The wiring thing is a minor issue to me.



kenkickr said:


> To angelkiller, I guess be thankful it was the pump that decided to not work instead instead of getting a leak and water all over the place...I've been there  It sucks when your rig has to be down for awhile but give H2O cooling another chance, it's FUN


Oh, I've been there! I found out by accident that distilled water isn't conductive. Even when it's pouring on your graphics card. I'm not giving up WC, I just don't trust it anymore for 24/7 operation without some kind of failsafe.


Thanks for the replies people!


----------



## sNiPeRbOb (Apr 7, 2010)

You can run them at 7v and they are quiet though (what I did)


----------



## angelkiller (Apr 8, 2010)

sNiPeRbOb said:


> You can run them at 7v and they are quiet though (what I did)


At the expense of performance, no? I have four blocks and 2 rads, and 800 rpm fans. I need all the flow I can get. I'm already using a MCP 350 instead of a 355. Undervolting a 350 sounds like performance would drop to an unacceptable level in my setup.

BTW, the Vario MCP 655 I'm considering is yours. 



brandonwh64 said:


> take this apart as well! what you need is inside.
> 
> http://img.techpowerup.org/100407/angelkiller-broken-mcp350-pic6.jpg
> 
> ...


Hmmmm. Mine seems to be different. The electromagnet was definately glued to the plastic housing. When I thought I was breaking the glue, I was actually breaking the green wires.  That black piece in the middle on yours is attached to the black housing on mine. 

The IC has this glue like substance on it and it won't come off easily. Anyway, I was able to get some numbers off it. The blanks are where I couldn't read it.

```
_2T430K_ M6
    992D_    VM
MYS  99  50
```


----------



## Steevo (Apr 8, 2010)

I love my watercooling, except the small drip I found, but other than that,  little bit of air im my lines and the water changes color with the soap to a baby blue and I know I have circulation.


----------



## cyriene (Apr 8, 2010)

I had a 355 die on me, fried my cpu and melted the delrin on my video card block.  Was pretty cool, the video card still works actually.  

You can put a couple 350s in series to guard against pump failure. Or get a D5.

Also, I wouldn't buy any used or cheap pumps.  Better to buy new and get the warranty.  I view pumps like hard drives, suck it up, buy new and pay a bit more.  I bought a 355 off ebay and it works half the time...money wasted as I had to buy a new one.


----------



## Naekuh (Apr 8, 2010)

OP your pump is dead...

Sorry to tell ya but this kinda shows it:






Your entire lower left section is toasted.... unless im not seeing the pictures correct.

Get a new pump... :\


----------



## angelkiller (Apr 8, 2010)

Bad lighting. Nothing looks burnt when you actually look at it. Maybe this shows it better. The things that look abnormally dark have some kind of glue on them. Either way, the pump is dead.




angelkiller said:


> I'm getting a new pump. Here's what I've come up with.
> 
> *1)* Another MCP 350 - $25 + shipping.
> Seller says this:
> ...


What do you think?


----------



## Wile E (Apr 8, 2010)

Nothing wrong with 350's, plus you already have a good top for it.

The $25 350's and the $40 D4 are the best deals. I'd probably grab 2 350's, and try to move to a dual loop setup. 

Vario is useless, just put it on a fan controller if you want to run it slower.


----------



## Naekuh (Apr 8, 2010)

the D4 is really loud..

Just dont expect it to be as quiet as your 350 was.


----------



## OneMoar (Apr 9, 2010)

http://www.dangerden.com/store/dc_powered/


----------



## computertechy (Apr 9, 2010)

Naekuh said:


> the D4 is really loud..
> 
> Just dont expect it to be as quiet as your 350 was.



that D5 aint much quieter either tbh.


----------



## brandonwh64 (Apr 9, 2010)

This is the pump i have and its nice!

http://www.dangerden.com/store/dd-cpx_pro-12v_pump.html#tabs


----------



## Naekuh (Apr 9, 2010)

computertechy said:


> that D5 aint much quieter either tbh.



vs a d4?

your kidding me right?

id rather have a d5 then a d4.

D5 comes in vario at least.


----------



## computertechy (Apr 9, 2010)

no..not vs a d4.

i know the D4 holds the record for the loudest pump.

but yes, the d5 is much quieter.(still loud enough though)


----------



## angelkiller (Apr 9, 2010)

Alright. I need to get this sorted out asap. I can't use my computer this weekend because I have no pump. 

I'm leaning on the D5 because the D4 and MCP350 are both loud. I know I can undervolt the MCP350, but I fear performance will go way down. (I have 4 blocks and 2 rads)

Need a final decision! What do I get?


----------



## cyriene (Apr 9, 2010)

2 350s in series for good flow and loop redundancy


----------



## overclocking101 (Apr 9, 2010)

D5


----------



## SNiiPE_DoGG (Apr 9, 2010)

That DDC the OP has is really REALLY old! original version if I am not mistaken.

get a new MCP 350 (355 if you can afford it or do not know how to do the solder mod) with the *blue* impeller. It is extremely reliable and will not die on you for quite a long time. Lots of mis-information in this thread.


----------



## overclocking101 (Apr 9, 2010)

lol


----------



## Wile E (Apr 10, 2010)

Naekuh said:


> vs a d4?
> 
> your kidding me right?
> 
> ...



Vario is useless. It's costs you extra money when all you have to do is turn the speed down using a simple resistor mod or a fan controller if you already happen to have one.





angelkiller said:


> Alright. I need to get this sorted out asap. I can't use my computer this weekend because I have no pump.
> 
> I'm leaning on the D5 because the D4 and MCP350 are both loud. I know I can undervolt the MCP350, but I fear performance will go way down. (I have 4 blocks and 2 rads)
> 
> Need a final decision! What do I get?


350's aren't loud. If you think a 350 is loud, you'll really hate the D4 or D5.

Get the 350 (or 2 for $50, if they are still available). I use 350's with tops, and the one on my CPU has been going 3 years strong now. They don't have reliability problems. The ones that are unreliable were just from bad batches. All high volume products have bad batches from time to time.


----------



## angelkiller (Apr 11, 2010)

cyriene said:


> 2 350s in series for good flow and loop redundancy





SNiiPE_DoGG said:


> That DDC the OP has is really REALLY old! original version if I am not mistaken.
> 
> get a new MCP 350 (355 if you can afford it or do not know how to do the solder mod) with the *blue* impeller. It is extremely reliable and will not die on you for quite a long time. Lots of mis-information in this thread.





Wile E said:


> Vario is useless. It's costs you extra money when all you have to do is turn the speed down using a simple resistor mod or a fan controller if you already happen to have one.
> 350's aren't loud. If you think a 350 is loud, you'll really hate the D4 or D5.
> 
> Get the 350 (or 2 for $50, if they are still available). I use 350's with tops, and the one on my CPU has been going 3 years strong now. They don't have reliability problems. The ones that are unreliable were just from bad batches. All high volume products have bad batches from time to time.


Alright, now we're getting somewhere.

Due to price, I have to rule out a MCP355. They are $70 new and I haven't seen them for sale in forums.

My MCP350 that broke was silent. I loved it. However, SniperBob has said that the MCP350 from this seller was loud at 12v. And there's no way that my pump can be considered loud, so there's clearly some discrepancy here. (Either my pump came from a quiet batch, or the seller's pump is unusually loud)

So it looks like I'll be getting two MCP 350's from that seller. I already have a top for one and I found a guy selling another top.

*But before I buy, tell me the pros/cons and everything else I need to know about dual pumps.*

And thanks again for the help. It's really appreciated.


----------



## p_o_s_pc (Apr 11, 2010)

I recommend this pump (OCZ Hydro 800) from the reviews it is about 1/2 price of the 655 and is almost as powerful (hardly noticeable difference) I have its little brother (Hydro 500) and its a great pump.IIRC its a DD pump just re-branded 
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9480/ex-pmp-83/OCZ_Hydro_Pulse_Water_Pump_800_-_800_Lhr.html


----------



## Wile E (Apr 12, 2010)

p_o_s_pc said:


> I recommend this pump (OCZ Hydro 800) from the reviews it is about 1/2 price of the 655 and is almost as powerful (hardly noticeable difference) I have its little brother (Hydro 500) and its a great pump.IIRC its a DD pump just re-branded
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9480/ex-pmp-83/OCZ_Hydro_Pulse_Water_Pump_800_-_800_Lhr.html



He can get an MCP 350 for $25. No sense in him buying that pump, when after shipping, he can have 2 350's.



angelkiller said:


> Alright, now we're getting somewhere.
> 
> Due to price, I have to rule out a MCP355. They are $70 new and I haven't seen them for sale in forums.
> 
> ...


Nothing much to know, really. Output of pump 1 into input of pump 2, then the rest of your loop. If you want to simplify the loop a little, put a reservoir top on pump 1. 

No cons to speak of really, except a little more power draw, and a little more complexity in placing components. 

The pros are a lot more head pressure, which will likely benefit a big complicated loop like yours, and more flow to go with it.


----------



## angelkiller (Apr 15, 2010)

Alright, I'm getting two MCP350s for sure now.

But before I do something stupid, I thought I should run this by you guys:

What do you think about dual pump tops. Specifically I'm looking at this EK one or this XPSC one with my preference being the XPSC top.

Right now I have a single Petra's DDCT-01. I could either get another single pump top, or sell mine and get a dual one. I'm want to do the 2nd option, but I wanted to make sure there aren't any major issues with using these.

Thanks again.


----------



## p_o_s_pc (Apr 15, 2010)

the XPSC tops are good. There are many reviews of the out there...google is your friend


----------



## Wile E (Apr 15, 2010)

Both are very good. Go for your preference.


----------



## Carlitos714 (Apr 15, 2010)

sorry for your loss


----------



## Naekuh (Apr 17, 2010)

Wile E said:


> Vario is useless. It's costs you extra money when all you have to do is turn the speed down using a simple resistor mod or a fan controller if you already happen to have one.



D5-B non vario has a 1 setting and a cap @ setting 4.
This is on paper.

The D5-Vario has a variable setting of 1-5. 
Setting 5 gives u more flow and head pressure then setting 4. 

The non vario can not do 5, which the vario can. 
Setting 3 makes the vario quieter then the non vario. 
Also the D5 has a power draw of 2amps or 24W. 
There are currently only a handful of fan controllers i can think of off the top of my head which could handle that.

1. Aquero + powerboost
2. Koolance @ Pump header on the controller
3. Sunbeam Rheobus extreme
4. Lamptron FC5 and there other FC model which has 2amps per channel. 

So... besides resistor mod.. u cant really use the fan controller option unless u get the ones i listed or something that specifically says 2 amps per channel. 


Dual pumps.. okey since ur dealing with the lower end of the flow rates... it will help you.
By putting pumps in serial you will get about a 33% increase in overall flow with double the head pressure. 
The best thing about dual pumps tho is the redundancy factor. 
The odds of BOTH your pumps dying on the same spot is almost the same as u winning a jackpot of 10,000 grand in vegas. 
So odds are against you, but its still within possible ranges. 

When dealing with the higher end DDC's u will get almost 0 benifit from dual pumps. 
The reason is we are still limited on the cpu block end, and blocks dont scale very well with more flow after 2gpm.
This is why most people say 1.5gpm is prime... below 1gpm is weak... and over 2gpm is excessive.

If your really concerned about noise.. shoggy matt + D5-Vario is very quiet.


----------



## overclocking101 (Apr 17, 2010)

you go naekuh! best thing I've read this entire page!


----------



## Wile E (Apr 17, 2010)

Naekuh said:


> D5-B non vario has a 1 setting and a cap @ setting 4.
> This is on paper.
> 
> The D5-Vario has a variable setting of 1-5.
> ...



As far as fan controllers, my standard Rheobus handles a D4 with no problems. The D5 and D4 are rated at around 24W, but typically only actually draw around 18-19w.

For the 2 pump debate, look how much stuff he has in his loop. He is running 4 blocks and 2 rads on a single loop. He will likely benefit from a 2 pump arrangement. He was running all of that on a single 350 before. He will benefit from the additional head pressure. He needs that more than total flow rate.

My recommendations weren't based on the "more is better" mantra. It was based on his particular setup, and my hands on experience with this stuff. I also had a very similar 4 block, 2 rad setup in the past. The only difference was I had Maze5's instead of 4's, and an MCR-120 instead of a GTS.

I was, however, mistaken about the difference between the D5 vario and basic. That was a very helpful incite you gave me, so for that you get a thanks.


----------



## angelkiller (Apr 30, 2010)

Alright. I got the system working. I haven't turned the computer on yet, but I have the WC loop running. The XPSC top looks sick as hell.  






(Needs some compressed air, I know)

There are two outstanding issues:

1) I need a way to run the pumps at something lower than 12v. Whatever the solution is it doesn't have to be variable. I thought about getting 7v from the 12v and 5v lines, but I was worried about feeding that much current back into the PSU.

2) There is much more turbulence in the res. So much that it causes the water lever to frequently drop below the outlet fitting, which lets the pump suck in air. Right now I have to run my system tilted to one side so this doesn't happen. Adding more water doesn't help. I'm hoping undervolting the pumps will solve this. If not, what kind of res should I get. Keep in mind that space is extremely tight. And budget is like $20 max.


----------



## overclocking101 (Apr 30, 2010)

a tube res long tube res. but I would try getting the pump(s) on a controller or lower volt first


----------



## Wile E (Apr 30, 2010)

angelkiller said:


> Alright. I got the system working. I haven't turned the computer on yet, but I have the WC loop running. The XPSC top looks sick as hell.
> 
> http://img.techpowerup.org/100430/angelkiller-dual-mcp350.jpg
> (Needs some compressed air, I know)
> ...


A Swiftech microres shouldn't have that problem. Petras has them for $23, so you could probably find one in your price range if you hunt around a little.
http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcmirere.html


----------



## angelkiller (Apr 30, 2010)

overclocking101 said:


> a tube res long tube res. but I would try getting the pump(s) on a controller or lower volt first


A T-Line. Good idea. Problem is mounting a fillport. I'll see what I can come up with.



Wile E said:


> A Swiftech microres shouldn't have that problem. Petras has them for $23, so you could probably find one in your price range if you hunt around a little.
> http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcmirere.html


I considered the Microres but he hard part is positining it. The bottom outlet has to be above the pump's inlet else when you fill the res, water won't 'fall' to the pump.

A bay res seems like the best idea because it's above the pump. However it has to be a single bay res due to my setup. (Only have 4, tubes from top rad take up two bays, optical drive uses another) I wouldn't have the issue if the outlet barb on my res pointed down. It's a tough situation. I'm really starting to like T-Line idea. I still value your input WilE, I don't mean to put you down.


----------



## angelkiller (Apr 30, 2010)

I'm not happy.

I finally got everything settled and positioned. Nothing leaks. I ran just the WC loop for a couple hours yesterday and a few hours today. I got a flashlight and looked for leaks. None.

I go to start up my computer and nothing happens. I turn the PSU off and back on. The system like 'flickers'. It's off...on.off.on.off...... 

I know I had alot of water spill into the PSU though.... It was plugged in, but off. As soon as I saw that happen, I yanked the cord. It was distilled water, doesn't conduct electricity. It's had plenty of time to dry off. I'm 100% certain about that. The standby LED comes on when you plug it on when you plug it in like it's supposed to.

TBH, I'm really tired of this system. My plan was to sell this at the end of the summer, but I'm thinking about getting rid of this now. I'll just sell it as is. I'm just so sick of putting so much effort to get this thing working.

It's not watercooling. It's not the parts. It's a combination of WCing that much stuff in a midtower case and me. Either way. My patcience has dropped to zero.

*If you want this system, make an offer.*


----------



## sNiPeRbOb (Apr 30, 2010)

I think overclocking101 might have been referring to this style of res


----------



## angelkiller (Apr 30, 2010)

sNiPeRbOb said:


> I think overclocking101 might have been referring to this style of res
> 
> http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-65556269779593_2102_4045573


Oh. I completely misunderstood. Sorry.

Again, I worry about positioning. There's not alot of space, as you can see from the pic above. Also, those things are _extremely_ overpriced. That looks like $10 of materials and they're charging $30+ for it. :shadedshu


----------



## TechnicalFreak (Apr 30, 2010)

Speaking of protection when using watercooling, a long time ago a friend of mine had watercooling, and he also had 2 things to protect the system. One was a small thing that was "rotating" as long as the pump was pushing water thru the hoses, the other was some type of "failsafe" pcb card that should be connected between the psu and the rotating thing.

If the water stopped, then it would kill the system in a second. Also, when you shutdown the system that PCB could run the pump for an extra 5-10 seconds so that the system would really be cool, _and_ on startup - the pump starts first by enabling it somehow. Can't remember names or anything, but I'm sure anyone around here know's what I mean.

I'm trying to find the parts right now, so I atleast can give you a name and possibly a link...


----------



## overclocking101 (Apr 30, 2010)

i was speaking of that style res but a T line works quite well to on a budget. and if you go to turn it on and nothing happens usually its the cpu IF the psu is still functional meaning you were leaktesting so it must have been fuctional. try re seating the cpu or switching it with a known working one.


----------



## angelkiller (Apr 30, 2010)

TechnicalFreak said:


> Speaking of protection when using watercooling, a long time ago a friend of mine had watercooling, and he also had 2 things to protect the system. One was a small thing that was "rotating" as long as the pump was pushing water thru the hoses, the other was some type of "failsafe" pcb card that should be connected between the psu and the rotating thing.
> 
> If the water stopped, then it would kill the system in a second. Also, when you shutdown the system that PCB could run the pump for an extra 5-10 seconds so that the system would really be cool, _and_ on startup - the pump starts first by enabling it somehow. Can't remember names or anything, but I'm sure anyone around here know's what I mean.
> 
> I'm trying to find the parts right now, so I atleast can give you a name and possibly a link...


After I got this running again, I was going to look into making some kind of circuit that made sure the pumps were turning. If the pumps stopped for some reason, the circuit would somehow shut down the computer. Wiring such a computer directly to the PSU for shutdown is a good idea. I've though about the flowmeter idea. It didn't appeal to me, but for no particular reason. I think it would be cooler to make your own. Like putting a small rotor inside the res and connecting it to a rpm sensor or something that I could interface with a microcontroller.

I know of the T-Balancer products. Actually I didn't realize that they could control WC pumps. Thought they were fans only. That's pretty much what I'm after. But building it myself seems so much cooler. 



overclocking101 said:


> i was speaking of that style res but a T line works quite well to on a budget. and if you go to turn it on and nothing happens usually its the cpu IF the psu is still functional meaning you were leaktesting so it must have been fuctional. try re seating the cpu or switching it with a known working one.


Hm. I'll have to test the CPU then. I used a seperate PSU to run the loop. I guess I could try running the loop on this PSU.


----------



## angelkiller (May 1, 2010)

Ok. It was the volt mod on my graphics card. I redid it and now the system boots! 

But it won't POST. I've tried resetting the BIOS, testing individual sticks of RAM and changing CPUs. I even removed the video card that had a problem.

It turn on and does nothing. What should I try?


----------

