# Tempest under water



## Inioch (Dec 6, 2009)

So, the time has come to start my journey into the world of water cooling. This log will be a way for me to get help from the great community here, and also to keep track of what I've done.

I really want to keep the whole system inside the case, even if that'll raise the temps a little.

I've got a pump, gpu-block and barbs coming from MoonPig (thanks mate), and this is the shopping list I've thought of:

Btw, how much hose is enough for the loop? Any other ideas?







The idea was to remove the two hdd cages from the front and mount the MCR220 there in a push-pull config.
The Xtreme would go on to the top where Tempest has holes to mount it.
I don't know about the fans yet, maybe try with the og 140mm first.

I was thinking about the loop to be: res-pump-lower rad-cpu-upper rad-gpu-res
Any good?


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## Th0rn0 (Dec 6, 2009)

Sounds good to me. Looking forward to seeing how this one pans out. Out of interest, where you putting the HDDs? The only thing that put me off mounting the rad to the front was that I hae 4 HDDs there


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## Inioch (Dec 6, 2009)

I only have one hdd at the moment, so I figured I'd put it to a 5.25" slot with the adapters that are first in the list.


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## Inioch (Dec 17, 2009)

Allrighty,

I got the rest of my stuff in today  Unfortunately I won't be installing before maybe sunday, since I still need to get the fluids and work a bit.

Enough talk, here are a few pictures:

All together:



>



Top: NexXxoS Xtreme II 240, Bottom: Swiftech MCR220 - QP Stack 240



>



Xilence Pro Fans, seem to push nice amounts of air and are nice and quiet.



>



Top: EK HD4870 Waterblock, Bottom: Watercool HK 775 3.0 LC



>



Dtek DB-1 pump, XSPC Bay res, Alphacool 1/2' ID tubing, Various Barbs



>



That's that.

Now I need some water. The impression I've got is that distilled water with pure silver is a good way to go.
Now the question is, is deionized (battery water) ok, or should I get distilled (non-deionized, pharmacy stuff) water the way to go?

Comments?


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## MRCL (Dec 17, 2009)

Distilled water only without any addon fluids as I call it will not prevent algae growing. Trust me *cough* I believe aquatuning has some fluids that you can mix with distilled water.


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## SummerDays (Dec 17, 2009)

Is that a 4870 waterblock for only $10 Euros?!

Btw, any bottled water from Pepsi or Coke will be distilled with 0 ppm minerals.

You don't need to buy the fancy stuff, just check the label.


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## MRCL (Dec 17, 2009)

SummerDays said:


> Is that a 4870 waterblock for only $10 Euros?!



No its only an adapter thing for non reference cards.


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## t77snapshot (Dec 17, 2009)

That is going to be awesome! I am in the process of water cooling my Tempest as wellI will just be running a single cpu loop. How do you plan on fitting those two rads inside the case? What will your configuration be?


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## Inioch (Dec 17, 2009)

The idea was to remove the two hdd cages from the front and mount the MCR220 there in a push-pull config.
The Xtreme would go on to the top where Tempest has holes to mount it.

i was thinking of trying the front in push-pull with the Xilence fans and the top with the 2x140mm in push, if I can fit fans there (which I don't think I can) then it'll be push-pull too.
I know this setup puts a lot of warm air in the case, but I'm quite sure it'll be blown out the back via positive air pressure.

I was thinking about the loop to be: res-pump-lower rad-cpu-upper rad-gpu-res

The order is a bit iffy at the moment. The tubes are quite thick walled and that might cause problems.


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## Th0rn0 (Dec 18, 2009)

Parts looking good 

I'm planning on water cooling both my 5770s soon with a extra rad


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## Inioch (Dec 18, 2009)

Th0rn0 said:


> Parts looking good
> 
> I'm planning on water cooling both my 5770s soon with a extra rad



Were you planning on mounting the second rad outside?

The 5xxx cards seem to be cool so you shouldn't have any problems with them.
You were going to add them to the same loop right?


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## johnnyfiive (Dec 18, 2009)

If you plan on using distilled water, use PT Nuke to _help_ prevent algae and bacteria growth.


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## Th0rn0 (Dec 19, 2009)

Inioch said:


> Were you planning on mounting the second rad outside?
> 
> The 5xxx cards seem to be cool so you shouldn't have any problems with them.
> You were going to add them to the same loop right?




Same loop just a second rad mounted at the front of my case on the inside. I have a pet hate for external rads unless they are done really well. But having 4 HDs is hard to re locate.


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## Inioch (Dec 19, 2009)

Th0rn0 said:


> But having 4 HDs is hard to re locate.



That's why I was asking. I'll have to see what I do with just my one HDD. 
Since there are only 3 5,25" slots and that's where I intended to mount the HDD.
I currently have a DVD drive and a fan controller there.
The res is going to take one slot and the HDD would take one too.

I didn't realize there wasn't enough space for all thing when I chose the res 
Maybe I'll get rid of the fan controller or just mount the HDD on the bottom somehow.


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## Chicken Patty (Dec 19, 2009)

this should be fun    Subscribed


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## Inioch (Dec 20, 2009)

I didn't have the energy to do anything today. I've been working two nights in a row so today was a movies and sofa day. Tomorrow I'll be going to my parents for the xmas so the project will have to wait until around boxing day.

Next week I'll do some paint mockups of how I was thinking of the tubing to go.


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## Inioch (Dec 28, 2009)

This is how I was planning on running the loop. This way both rads would get cool air and both cpu and vga get chilled water straight from rad. Comments?

I know the case temps will rise, but I don't think that'll be such a problem since important components are on water.


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## Thrackan (Dec 29, 2009)

Let your rad fans blow up instead of down, because:
- Hot air rises, blowing up removes it from the case
- Blowing cold air through a rad heats the air up, so you're blowing slightly warmed air into your case

Next, I'd say put your VGA before the rad, so you can get rid of the VGA's heat as well. Otherwise you're warming up your loop a lot quicker. I'd do it like:

Pump, CPU, RAD, VGA, RAD, Res and back to pump

EDIT: pump, RAD, CPU, RAD, VGA, Res and back to pump wouldn't be bad, I just noticed you're putting the water through a rad before hitting any heated component


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## Inioch (Dec 29, 2009)

Yep, I was thinking it's good to do it in that order, since the warm water shouln't matter in the res and pump?

I debated the top fans with myself, which is better, pushing cold air in to the rad, or going with the natural rising of heat? Maybe I'll just try both ways, and then determine which way I'll go.


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## Chicken Patty (Dec 29, 2009)

Pushing has always worked Better for me, bur of course depending on configuration things can change.


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## Thrackan (Dec 29, 2009)

Inioch said:


> Yep, I was thinking it's good to do it in that order, since the warm water shouln't matter in the res and pump?
> 
> I debated the top fans with myself, which is better, pushing cold air in to the rad, or going with the natural rising of heat? Maybe I'll just try both ways, and then determine which way I'll go.



Either way, 5 intake vs 1 outtake seems kind of unbalanced to me... 3 intake, 3 outtake would be my preference. My educated guess is top outtakes win.

But testing says more than theory obviously


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## Inioch (Dec 29, 2009)

I currently have 5 in and 1 out and it gives me better temps. Right now it helps that the cpu gets cool air straight. Besides, if more air comes in than is sucked out, the rest finds a way out, for example through pci slots and other holes in the back (positive air pressure).

But as we both said, well see


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## BUCK NASTY (Dec 29, 2009)

Following this thread to see if I can improve the WC in my Tempest. Currently have MCR220 mounted to inside top of case with 2-140mm pulling. have you mounted the rad in front of the HDD yet?


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## Inioch (Dec 29, 2009)

No, all the stuff is ready, just waiting for me to have time to build the thing. Got distilled water and hose clamps today, so everything is set. Maybe I'll have time in the weekend.

I'm hoping the rad will fit straight to the front without any drilling, but we'll see.


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## @RaXxaa@ (Dec 29, 2009)

Why going distilled. last i remember distilled watter can cause heavy rusting or something, maybe iam wrong but again. i think you should go for a coolant that is non rusting and has no electrical conductivity, so if any leaks happen it wont damage any equipment


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## Thrackan (Dec 29, 2009)

maq_paki said:


> Why going distilled. last i remember distilled watter can cause heavy rusting or something, maybe iam wrong but again. i think you should go for a coolant that is non rusting and has no electrical conductivity, so if any leaks happen it wont damage any equipment



Corrosion occurs only if you mix metals (aluminum and copper) in one loop. It also does not conduct electricity. It's the best, and cheapest, way to go.


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## Inioch (Dec 29, 2009)

Distilled, not deionized. Deionized can cause the blocks to start releasing their ions into the water to balance the ionization?, anyway, what I have is distilled but not deionized.

Besides, that's what the gurus said 



Binge said:


> Distilled water only.





Wile E said:


> Just use distilled water, and throw a piece of pure silver in your reservoir. Distilled water performs the best anyway.


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## phanbuey (Dec 29, 2009)

wait isn't your vga block aluminum? you might want to use antifreeze, not distilled water.  You need anti-corrosives if youre mixing metals, not sure if that part is aluminum of if they put ALU in the name just to scare people who watercool, but if its aluminum, you need at least an 80/20 water/antifreeze mixture.


EDIT: NVM i seewhere that piece goes now and that it does not come in contact with water at all... yes distilled water and some biocide or silver will do the trick.


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## Inioch (Dec 29, 2009)

Distilled water + 999 silver is my combo.


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## Kantastic (Dec 29, 2009)

Inioch said:


> Distilled water + 999 silver is my combo.



Yeah that's what I'm doing, I have a coil of silver coming in from Petra's in the next few days.


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## Inioch (Jan 4, 2010)

Graah, I've been trying to set up the loop for a day. 
Now everything is almost done, but the second I start leak testing, the water comes out from between the hose and the barb. (1/2" ID hose, 1/2" barbs) The hose is crazy thick, maybe the clamp is making it oval?

I'm using screwed clamps, can that be the cause?


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## Thrackan (Jan 4, 2010)

Does the hose pop on the barbs easily? You could make a layer of teflon tape on the barbs to thicken them a bit...


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## Inioch (Jan 4, 2010)

Thrackan said:


> Does the hose pop on the barbs easily? You could make a layer of teflon tape on the barbs to thicken them a bit...



Not really, on some more than the others (different brands). But in the first test, it came out on the fatboy barbs, and those are really tight. I'm such a noob at this, but I just can't figure what I'm doing wrong.


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## Thrackan (Jan 4, 2010)

Inioch said:


> Not really, on some more than the others (different brands). But in the first test, it came out on the fatboy barbs, and those are really tight. I'm such a noob at this, but I just can't figure what I'm doing wrong.



You might want to make sure whether the water comes out between hose & barb or barb & rad/


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## Inioch (Jan 4, 2010)

It comes from between the hose and barb.


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## Thrackan (Jan 4, 2010)

Hmm, I don't have much experience with slide-on barbs and hose clamps (always used screw fittings), but you might want to get yourself some teflon tape and try it.

You can also try to tighten the clamps, or leave the clamps off if the hose is on tight enough.


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## Chicken Patty (Jan 4, 2010)

if the clamps is making the hose go oval, remove it and just tie wrap it or something.  That should fix the issue.  If it leaks, then I think you might need new hoses, or some stronger hands


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## Inioch (Jan 4, 2010)

Chicken Patty said:


> if the clamps is making the hose go oval, remove it and just tie wrap it or something.  That should fix the issue.  If it leaks, then I think you might need new hoses, or some stronger hands



I'm not sure that's what's happening, it was just a guess. I'll have to try it without clamps. Just worried about an even more catastrophic failure  (said the man while drying his video card...)

Thanks for the advice guys.


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## Chicken Patty (Jan 4, 2010)

Inioch said:


> I'm not sure that's what's happening, it was just a guess. I'll have to try it without clamps. Just worried about an even more catastrophic failure  (said the man while drying his video card...)
> 
> Thanks for the advice guys.



Make sure to put paper towel everywhere. Or remove vid card/sound card anything that can get wet under it and just jump the PSU with pump connected.  heres a how to on that.

http://www.overclock.net/faqs/96712-how-jump-start-power-supply-psu.html


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## Thrackan (Jan 4, 2010)

Chicken Patty said:


> Make sure to put paper towel everywhere. Or remove vid card/sound card anything that can get wet under it and just jump the PSU with pump connected.  heres a how to on that.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/faqs/96712-how-jump-start-power-supply-psu.html



When jumping the PSU, make sure you unplug everything from your motherboard. I made the mistake to leave my 8-pin power in and that cost me €200+


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## Chicken Patty (Jan 4, 2010)

Thrackan said:


> When jumping the PSU, make sure you unplug everything from your motherboard. I made the mistake to leave my 8-pin power in and that cost me €200+



Thanks, I completely forgot that


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## Inioch (Jan 4, 2010)

Chicken Patty said:


> Make sure to put paper towel everywhere. Or remove vid card/sound card anything that can get wet under it and just jump the PSU with pump connected.  heres a how to on that.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/faqs/96712-how-jump-start-power-supply-psu.html





Thrackan said:


> When jumping the PSU, make sure you unplug everything from your motherboard. I made the mistake to leave my 8-pin power in and that cost me €200+



Thanks, I'll remember that. I have nothing plugged in except the cpu and gpu, and no current going to the mobo or gpu. I'll just have to line everything up with paper and try.


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## Chicken Patty (Jan 4, 2010)

Just leave the pump only connected. When you jump ofthe only thing that should work is the pump.  This way you can leak test easily and much safer.  What coolant are you using?


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## Inioch (Jan 4, 2010)

Distilled water with 99.9% silver. The pump is running now, nothing is leaking but there's still a lot of air in the system.

I've been trying to turn the comp on all sides, but there's still quite lot of air.
Maybe I'm just not turning enough? I'm just a bit worried, since there are no clamps in place.
Zip-ties would work I suppose, but they're a bitch to get off.

Edit: Zip ties did the trick. Maybe tomorrow, I'll get the system running again and get some temps. It's only been three days then...


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## Inioch (Jan 5, 2010)

Just a sneak preview. Loop set, just need to put in everything else.


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## Inioch (Jan 5, 2010)

Thrackan said:


> When jumping the PSU, make sure you unplug everything from your motherboard. I made the mistake to leave my 8-pin power in and that cost me €200+



Erh, I kinda forgot about this, while I was trying if the computer works after my fiddling.
Long story short, I had just the 8-pin plugged into the mobo, switched on the psu and 
Lights went out and the fuse burned . Now the real question is, did it fry the mobo and cpu?

How likely is it?

I'm an idiot, I know


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## Thrackan (Jan 5, 2010)

Inioch said:


> Erh, I kinda forgot about this, while I was trying if the computer works after my fiddling.
> Long story short, I had just the 8-pin plugged into the mobo, switched on the psu and
> Lights went out and the fuse burned . Now the real question is, did it fry the mobo and cpu?
> 
> ...



Does it stink of burnt electronics?


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## Inioch (Jan 5, 2010)

Thrackan said:


> Does it stink of burnt electronics?



Thankfully no.


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## Thrackan (Jan 5, 2010)

Inioch said:


> Thankfully no.



Well, best guess is to wire everything up, wipe your sweat off and try starting the pc...


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## Inioch (Jan 5, 2010)

That'll be tomorrow. Now I have to sleep if I can.
I'll keep my fingers crossed and you guys posted.


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## Inioch (Jan 6, 2010)

After countles moments of pure dread and horror, the rig is running 

I'm so freaking happy right now. It seems I dodged a bullet the size of Russia.
The only thing that actually broke, was one 1 gig stick of ram, and that has warranty, so I hope I can get a replacement.

I also have coming a q9550 and a G.Skill Falcon 64gig ssd, so life is smiling after all. Load temps on the cpu (@stock) is 33c OCCT linpack. Haven't had time to try the gpu yet.

It seems that my stupidity didn't end up costing me too much.


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## Thrackan (Jan 7, 2010)

Wow, lucky 
I'd not even dare to do it in a situation like this, but I suggest you test everything, Mem, Gpu, CPU, HDD I/O, to make sure nothing else is broken and unstable...


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## Inioch (Jan 7, 2010)

Thrackan said:


> Wow, lucky
> I'd not even dare to do it in a situation like this, but I suggest you test everything, Mem, Gpu, CPU, HDD I/O, to make sure nothing else is broken and unstable...



Memory passes Memtest86+, Gpu is stable under GPUTool and Furmark, still need to try gaming, Cpu is stable @stock OCCT, SuperPi, Linpack, p95, HDD wasn't even plugged in when I screwed up. So it seems I'm fine besides that one stick. 

Now I'll just finish up the build and I can show you guys some pics.


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## Thrackan (Jan 7, 2010)

Inioch said:


> Memory passes Memtest86+, Gpu is stable under GPUTool and Furmark, still need to try gaming, Cpu is stable @stock OCCT, SuperPi, Linpack, p95, *HDD wasn't even plugged in when I screwed up.* So it seems I'm fine besides that one stick.
> 
> Now I'll just finish up the build and I can show you guys some pics.



Still, the NB might have gotten a bit of the blast, so I'd check I/O too.


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## Inioch (Jan 7, 2010)

Thrackan said:


> Still, the NB might have gotten a bit of the blast, so I'd check I/O too.



Which tool do you suggest?


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## Thrackan (Jan 7, 2010)

Inioch said:


> Which tool do you suggest?



Beats me honestly


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## Conflict0s (Jan 7, 2010)

Nice thread, it looks really good


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## Inioch (Jan 7, 2010)

Also passes all other tests in HDTune.


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## Thrackan (Jan 7, 2010)

Well it looks like you're safe, hope you are  Guess it's time to ask for pics then


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## Inioch (Jan 9, 2010)

Damn it, I might have celebrated too early. I tried setting the clocks back to the 4GHz settings I've had 24/7 for quite some time, and got a bsod on linpack. 
Now it won't start again, I'll have to clear cmos, which is a bitch, since the jumper is behind the second gpu.
If that doesn't work, I'll have to start pulling sticks away again.

Shit. 

Edit: Everything runs fine @stock. Checked the dump, it was atimdag that caused it? Who knows.


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## Inioch (Jan 9, 2010)

And here are the pics.

Everything set, let's get cooking





Case stripped, front panel wires under the mobo.





I drilled holes for the top rad to be in a better place, but surprise surprise, there it blocked the 8-pin cpu. 
Had to put it in the original place in the end.





Top rad where it was supposed to go. I kinda liked the blue protective film, so I just let it stay.
I think it fits the blue tubing and leds.





Now why didn't I see this coming? The front rad takes away one 5.25 slot. Now where am I going to put the HDD?





Front rad from inside. It's attached to the top front fan with screws. Seems to hold nicely.





GPU block installed and ready to go.





Thick tubing, check. Small space, check. Problems installing the rest of stuff there, check.





Leak testing ready.





And here's how it ended up. Please ignore my crappy cabling.





This is what it looks like when running.





And side panel in place. Maybe at some point, I'll get blue led fans on the side and back. But these are quiet and blow air well.





Res looks nice.





So, that's how it went, and now I'll have to figure out, if I broke something more than just one stick of ram.

Thanks for looking.


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## Chicken Patty (Jan 9, 2010)

What did you do to possibly break a stick of RAM?

Looks good, however I think it is possible to run the tubing a bit more cleaner.


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## Inioch (Jan 9, 2010)

Chicken Patty said:


> What did you do to possibly break a stick of RAM?
> 
> Looks good, however I think it is possible to run the tubing a bit more cleaner.





Inioch said:


> Erh, I kinda forgot about this, while I was trying if the computer works after my fiddling.
> Long story short, I had just the 8-pin plugged into the mobo, switched on the psu and
> Lights went out and the fuse burned . Now the real question is, did it fry the mobo and cpu?
> 
> ...



That's how 

How would you suggest running the tubing? It's very thick and doesn't like to bend too sharply.


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## Chicken Patty (Jan 9, 2010)

Inioch said:


> That's how
> 
> How would you suggest running the tubing? It's very thick and doesn't like to bend too sharply.



It's hard to explain.  I mean trying to route it more efficiently, using less tubing.  Right now it looks like you have tubing going all over the place. Don't get the wrong idea though, I like it, this build is coming along very nicely.


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## Inioch (Jan 9, 2010)

It's just that, bending the tubing in shorter routes puts a lot of strain on the parts, especially the gpu.


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## Chicken Patty (Jan 9, 2010)

Inioch said:


> It's just that, bending the tubing in shorter routes puts a lot of strain on the parts, especially the gpu.



I understand.  If nothing can be done, it still looks kick ass!


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## Th0rn0 (Jan 9, 2010)

Wow very nice build there 

I'm going to re do all my cable management at some point I think.

Just a quick question though... Where are your HDs?


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## Inioch (Jan 9, 2010)

I only have one at the moment. It's under the front rad.
I'll post a picture tomorrow.


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## Yukikaze (Jan 10, 2010)

Inioch said:


> Now why didn't I see this coming? The front rad takes away one 5.25 slot. Now where am I going to put the HDD?



This is pretty much what I meant in my thread and the reason why I didn't want my dual res up-front but rather on the top. Being left with only two 5.2" slots in the whole case was something I did not want happening to me.

The build looks good overall. The tubing looks massive.


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## Inioch (Jan 10, 2010)

Yukikaze said:


> This is pretty much what I meant in my thread and the reason why I didn't want my dual res up-front but rather on the top. Being left with only two 5.2" slots in the whole case was something I did not want happening to me.
> 
> The build looks good overall. The tubing looks massive.



I understand completely. I just wanted 2x240 rads inside, so not much choise there.

The tubing is massive. I think it's 19/13mm, so the walls are 2mm thick.


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## codyjansen (Jan 10, 2010)

thats a sweet looking pc


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## Thrackan (Jan 11, 2010)

Nice pics mate, now where did you put the HDD? Or did I miss it? It's monday after all...


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## Inioch (Jan 11, 2010)

Thrackan said:


> Nice pics mate, now where did you put the HDD? Or did I miss it? It's monday after all...



It's under the front rad on the bottom of the case. It sits on a dampening cushion. Best I could come up with right now


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## Chicken Patty (Jan 11, 2010)

Hey man it works    Nice glow from the fans


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## steelkane (Jan 12, 2010)

Perfection is only achieved after Repetitive
So, As far as I see it, your off to a good start.


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## Inioch (Jan 19, 2010)

Here are some temp pics. I haven't gone for a higher oc yet, as it seems my board didn't survive the little incident before as well as I hoped. Seems to have some problems with the memory controller.

Anyway, here's a before pic:







And here's an after pic:







Cpu temps have dropped about 10c, but the best part is the gpu.
On air, it peaked just below 90c, now on water, full load maxes at 44c.

I'm quite happy with the temps right now, but if I get a quad later, would it make sense to add another Swiftech MCR220 Stack to the loop?

Like this:


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## Chicken Patty (Jan 20, 2010)

Not sure on the peformance of the stackers, but it will def. improve your temps further.  Good job so far, are you happy with the results?  I would be.


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## [H]@RD5TUFF (Jan 20, 2010)

Thrackan said:


> Let your rad fans blow up instead of down, because:
> - Hot air rises, blowing up removes it from the case
> - Blowing cold air through a rad heats the air up, so you're blowing slightly warmed air into your case
> 
> ...



Blowing warm air into the case really isn't a big deal when all major componets are water cooled. If it's really a concern a beefy exhaust fan can remedy the situation, it's really nothing 70+ CFM of exhaust can't fix.


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## Inioch (Jan 21, 2010)

Chicken Patty said:


> Not sure on the peformance of the stackers, but it will def. improve your temps further.  Good job so far, are you happy with the results?  I would be.



I'm quite happy. I'll have to see about getting the other gpu under water too, then I can really see if my setup is enough. If not, then I'll just get another stacker and couple of fans and that should do it.


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## Chicken Patty (Jan 21, 2010)

That sounds like a plan, another stacker should be enough if you need it.


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## phanbuey (Jan 21, 2010)

th stackers are awful, and they wont fit into that case if you mount them on the top, because they will block access to the cpu socket... basically there will be no room for the block and the tubing because they will hang so low.

The stackers need really loud fans to perform properly... i had a  triple stacker setup and it was a total waste of money.  A single 140MMx2 rad will kick the crap out of those and do it quietly.


as far as blowing "warm" air into the case... if your rad is so hot that the air you air blowing into the case is "warm" then your setup is overloaded... the air is maybe 1-3C warmer than ambient, so its a non issue.  HOWEVER, using warm air to "cool" the rad is so much less effective than using cold that you can expect a nice ~5C rise in temps between fresh air and exhaust air.

as far as "warm air rising"... *HOT* air rises... like burning hot.  Air that is 1-4C warmer than the air around it sort of slowly floats upwards if there is 0 airflow in the area in question... as soon as a slight breeze is introduced, it doesnt matter anymore as it all mixes.

You have a very nicely done setup tbh...  I would replace the top rad with a 140x2 instead of going with the stacker tho... I was so bummed at the performance.


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## Chicken Patty (Jan 21, 2010)

Thanks Phanbuey, it's good to have someone speak from experience.


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## phanbuey (Jan 21, 2010)

Chicken Patty said:


> Thanks Phanbuey, it's good to have someone speak from experience.



worst $75 of my life... well... maybe not the worst


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## Chicken Patty (Jan 21, 2010)

So it's basically a in efficient design right?


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## Inioch (Jan 21, 2010)

I have the stacker on the front and there's room for another one there. I read this on review and another one by him here. Basically what he's saying is the same, you need a lot of air if you're going to stack them. They also seem to need shrouds to get the best out of them. But on their own, they rock for price/performance.

I have both rads being blown cold air, and exhaust is in the rear. And yeah, the air coming through them is just warm, like 1-3c warmer. I thought about getting a 2x140 on the top, but as long as the 240 is doing okay there, I wont probably change it.


----------



## Chicken Patty (Jan 21, 2010)

Yeah I think they work good when solo.  When stacked you'll need some shrouding and good fans.   Some people would get annoyed by the extra noise from the added airflow.  I would just stay away from stacking them.  My .02 cents.


----------



## pantherx12 (Jan 21, 2010)

Anyone else think the loop could be simplified drastically ? seems to have way to many pipes for how many things he's cooling.

Should only need 5.


----------



## Inioch (Jan 21, 2010)

pantherx12 said:


> Anyone else think the loop could be simplified drastically ? seems to have way to many pipes for how many things he's cooling.
> 
> Should only need 5.



There's only six, but they run quite long


----------



## johnnyfiive (Jan 23, 2010)

Shortening the tubing should improve flow and ultimately reduce temps.


----------



## phanbuey (Jan 23, 2010)

yep... less tubing is always better... and looks better... its hard with thick tubing though... i always use 3/8" for that reason.  Easier to manage and almost no difference in temps


----------



## Inioch (Jan 23, 2010)

I was planning on getting 7/16" tubing to replace this at some point when I have to take it apart. That should fit 1/2" barbs right?

One thing I also will get is a backplate for the cpu block. Stupid me, I didn't order it when I got the rest of the parts.


----------



## phanbuey (Jan 23, 2010)

Tha back plate can make a big difference in temps.


----------



## Inioch (Jan 23, 2010)

phanbuey said:


> Tha back plate can make a big difference in temps.



I just forgot it when ordering the parts. It's like 5€ 

Can't remember everything


----------



## Chicken Patty (Jan 24, 2010)

Inioch said:


> I just forgot it when ordering the parts. It's like 5€
> 
> Can't remember everything



You have the HK block right?  I've seen peeps get huge differences with the backplates.


----------



## [H]@RD5TUFF (Jan 24, 2010)

Chicken Patty said:


> You have the HK block right?  I've seen peeps get huge differences with the backplates.



I for one can say this is 100% true, I bought a HK block off my friend, he managed to score some special limited edition, so I bought his for 25 dollars, cleaned it up and installed it and couldn't see what all the hype was about, it wasn't a bad preformer but wasn't what it was made out to be IMO, then I found out he had kept the back plate, so I ordered one, and installed it and the difference was nearly a 15% improvment. IMO it's not impossible to get great preformance without the back plate, it's just easier to do so with it, and it costs like $15 USD shipped, that's about a dollar per % in preformance increase! Worth every bit of the money.


----------



## Chicken Patty (Jan 24, 2010)

[H]@RD5TUFF said:


> I for one can say this is 100% true, I bought a HK block off my friend, he managed to score some special limited edition, so I bought his for 25 dollars, cleaned it up and installed it and couldn't see what all the hype was about, it wasn't a bad preformer but wasn't what it was made out to be IMO, then I found out he had kept the back plate, so I ordered one, and installed it and the difference was nearly a 15% improvment. IMO it's not impossible to get great preformance without the back plate, it's just easier to do so with it, and it costs like $15 USD shipped, that's about a dollar per % in preformance increase! Worth every bit of the money.



Thank you for sharing!   Indeed this backs up my point.


----------



## Inioch (Jan 24, 2010)

Chicken Patty said:


> You have the HK block right?  I've seen peeps get huge differences with the backplates.



I'm going to order it today. Does 7/16" tubing work well with 1/2" barbs? It should be more flexible than my current 13mm ID/19mm OD one right?

Should I go with this: Masterkleer tubing 15,9/12,7mm clear (1/2"ID)

or this: Masterkleer tubing 15,9/11,1mm clear (7/16'ID)

Any difference in flow, bending etc?


----------



## Chicken Patty (Jan 24, 2010)

Inioch said:


> I'm going to order it today. Does 7/16" tubing work well with 1/2" barbs? It should be more flexible than my current 13mm ID/19mm OD one right?
> 
> Should I go with this: Masterkleer tubing 15,9/12,7mm clear (1/2"ID)
> 
> ...



Good choice 

As far as tubing 7/16th is a very very snug fit.  However, over time it was so hard to get off I just stuck with 1/2" turbing.  THe thicker the wall the harder it is to bend, but the less chance it has of kinking.  I say flow is about the same.


----------



## [H]@RD5TUFF (Jan 24, 2010)

Inioch said:


> I'm going to order it today. Does 7/16" tubing work well with 1/2" barbs? It should be more flexible than my current 13mm ID/19mm OD one right?
> 
> Should I go with this: Masterkleer tubing 15,9/12,7mm clear (1/2"ID)
> 
> ...



For reasons I state below I state go with Masterkleer tubing 15,9/11,1mm clear (7/16'ID) with 1/2" barbs.



Chicken Patty said:


> Good choice
> 
> As far as tubing 7/16th is a very very snug fit.  However, over time it was so hard to get off I just stuck with 1/2" turbing.  THe thicker the wall the harder it is to bend, but the less chance it has of kinking.  I say flow is about the same.



I would have to agree. Getting it off can be difficult, but it's nothing a blow dryer / heat gun or a cup of boiling water can't fix. It also helps to cool the barbs a little too. Throw them in the freezer or the fridge for about an hour, grab your tubing and dip it in some boiling water for about 10-20 seconds. Then push the barb into the softened tubing, it will be easier because the metal will have shrunk slightly and the tubing will soften and expand a little. Make sure you wear some gloves of some kind! Mechanics or driving, or baseball gloves all work well, because they are usually vinyl or leather, and are cheap. Once you have the tuning on and have a snug fit, leave them out to cool for about 15-20 mins. If your in a real hurry a air compressor, or canned air, can be used to cool them. Once cooled you will have a rock solid tight fit. I can say using this method, I have had only 1 leak using 7/16" and 1/2" babrs tubing in 7 different builds, and any leaks can be fixed with a zip tie. This does not mean  that you shouldn't do a 24-48 hour leak test, it is water, and it loves to fry hardware. 

As for flow, I would also agree, that yeah it's about the same in flow, maybe a little more, but not having to worry about kinks, means worlds to me. And tubing is cheap, I never re-use tubing, as it can warp, harden and crack. If your adding new parts, do the extra work and replace your tubing if it's been in use for more than 6 months.


----------



## phanbuey (Jan 25, 2010)

if youre worried about kinks, then coils are really the only way... 

my vote also goes to 7/16... but as CP said... its a B*TCH to get off. (sounds dirty no?)


----------



## [H]@RD5TUFF (Jan 25, 2010)

phanbuey said:


> if youre worried about kinks, then coils are really the only way...
> 
> my vote also goes to 7/16... but as CP said... its a B*TCH to get off. (sounds dirty no?)



Tubing is cheaper than new fittings, once you drain your system, use a knife and cut tubing off the fittings. Also I'm not sold on coils, I've never used them, and don't think I ever will, they seem like the lazy mans way out, when 30 mins of planning will do the same thing, thats about the same amount of time you'll spend threading tubing though coils.


----------



## Chicken Patty (Jan 25, 2010)

[H]@RD5TUFF said:


> Tubing is cheaper than new fittings, once you drain your system, use a knife and cut tubing off the fittings.



I did that at times.  Works better than trying to yank everything off.


----------



## [H]@RD5TUFF (Jan 25, 2010)

Chicken Patty said:


> I did that at times.  Works better than trying to yank everything off.



It's what I do every time, as fittings can cost as much a 2-3 dollars for a pair. And most of the time you can get a foot or 2 of tubing for the same price. A sharp knife and patience are some of the best tools you can equip yourself with.


----------



## Chicken Patty (Jan 25, 2010)

[H]@RD5TUFF said:


> It's what I do every time, as fittings can cost as much a 2-3 dollars for a pair. And most of the time you can get a foot or 2 of tubing for the same price. A sharp knife and patience are some of the best tools you can equip yourself with.



The thing with cutting it is if you plan on not removing the block.  Getting the little piece out afterward is a pain.  It's even worse.


----------



## [H]@RD5TUFF (Jan 25, 2010)

Chicken Patty said:


> The thing with cutting it is if you plan on not removing the block.  Getting the little piece out afterward is a pain.  It's even worse.



If your not cool with cutting or removing your fittings from your block, or blocks as the case may be, the boiling water trick works pretty well too.  Just stick the whole block with the fittings and tubing in the boiling water. Just let it sit in there about a min or 2 and the tubing will be soft enough it will literally pretty much yank off. This works with any block, yes even the vid card blocks. Just need to use a big enough pot of boiling water.  Your not going to hurt your blocks, just don't let them sit in there forever.


----------



## Chicken Patty (Jan 25, 2010)

[H]@RD5TUFF said:


> If your not cool with cutting or removing your fittings from your block, or blocks as the case may be, the boiling water trick works pretty well too.  Just stick the whole block with the fittings and tubing in the boiling water. Just let it sit in there about a min or 2 and the tubing will be soft enough it will literally pretty much yank off. This works with any block, yes even the vid card blocks. Just need to use a big enough pot of boiling water.  Your not going to hurt your blocks, just don't let them sit in there forever.



I would say the water trick is better if you are pulling everything out.  If you are lazy like me and try to leave everything in the rig then you are going to have to struggle and suffer


----------



## [H]@RD5TUFF (Jan 25, 2010)

Chicken Patty said:


> I would say the water trick is better if you are pulling everything out.  If you are lazy like me and try to leave everything in the rig then you are going to have to struggle and suffer



This is true, I have come to the conclusion, that it is easier to take it all apart when your using 7/16" with 1/2" fittings, it's sometimes quicker than trying to yank tubing off of the fittings.


----------



## Chicken Patty (Jan 25, 2010)

More work but quicker.  You are correct.


----------



## phanbuey (Jan 25, 2010)

Coils are a must for heavily WC'ed systems... 

No amount of planning is going to make the bend between my gfx cards... i would have to mess up my loop order and use more tubing in the long run... more tubing = more pressure drop.

they aso allow you to use more flexible, thinner tubing, which makes it easy to work with.

my siggie has UV orange coils in a DD black series UV orange tower... looks pretty sick.  Wouldnt have been able to do without the coils.


----------



## johnnyfiive (Jan 25, 2010)

Chicken Patty said:


> I would say the water trick is better if you are pulling everything out.  If you are lazy like me and try to leave everything in the rig then you are going to have to struggle and suffer



Thats dangerous and stuff!


----------



## Chicken Patty (Jan 25, 2010)

Did I mention I was lazy?


----------



## [H]@RD5TUFF (Jan 25, 2010)

phanbuey said:


> Coils are a must for heavily WC'ed systems...
> 
> No amount of planning is going to make the bend between my gfx cards... i would have to mess up my loop order and use more tubing in the long run... more tubing = more pressure drop.
> 
> ...



I hate coils I usually use cross fittings  between video cards, as to me coils look sloppy imo. But I do own some tubing that I found in the WanChai Computer Center in Hong Kong on my last buisness trip there, the tubing is pretty cool it has hard rubber coils built into the tubing, it was damn expensive 9 and half USD per meter (about $3.50 USD per foot). Whats more convincing customs on both sides that it wasn't the makings for a bomb  ughhh pain in the ass doesn't come close to describing the horror I went through.



johnnyfiive said:


> Thats dangerous and stuff!



If it's not dangerous it's not fun.



Chicken Patty said:


> Did I mention I was lazy?



Join the club, your talking to the IT guy who outsourced all but a shell and a data server on my last job.


----------



## Chicken Patty (Jan 25, 2010)

I love messing with IT guys lol.  It's fun.


----------



## [H]@RD5TUFF (Jan 25, 2010)

Chicken Patty said:


> I love messing with IT guys lol.  It's fun.



Don't mess with the guys who can ensure every time you open your browser, your bombarded with enough pop ups for PR0N sites your computer will crash. It got my boss to be nicer to me.


----------



## Chicken Patty (Jan 25, 2010)

I don't think my IT department is smart enough to do that


----------



## [H]@RD5TUFF (Jan 25, 2010)

Chicken Patty said:


> I don't think my IT department is smart enough to do that


 Your lucky, I was working late one night well not "really" late but pretty damn late for me as I usually go in to work at about 3-4 AM and leave about noon, it was about 8-9 PM on a friday ( one fo those days where everything breaks all at once, multipule times). I had just packed up gotten out the door, and lit my cigar (technically a cigarillo ) and looked out to see the parking lot almost completely empty, no surprise there, it's like 9 PM on a friday. I go to where my car should be and it's not there. . . ..  I think well there's no glass on the ground, and it's a safe and gated parking lot. So I call low jack, and tell them about the problem, they call me back 3 mins later saying my car was at a tow yard about 15 miles from my place of work, I call the cops, and call the tow yard. After about 2 hours of calling I find out the tow yard was asked to tow the car, because of it being an "unauthorized vehichle" I went and called a cab, got my car and told them I would be taking them to small claims.

Come to find out the day security guard had my car towed because he "didn't see" my parking sticker (despite the fact it sits right in the lower left corner on the drivers side on the front windshield ). I won the small claims case. And informed HR about the incident. Nothing happened to the security guy. But I came to find out that he is a huge New York fan (Yankees Jets Giants Nicks) but there is no TV in the lobby where he sits and does his "job" but he watches the games on ESPN and sometimes watches them streamed.  Well as of late the internet connection for his computer station/ laptop has been very erratic, it seems to go out exactly when ever a sports event featuring a team from New York is on.

Bottom line, don't mess with your IT guys.


----------



## Chicken Patty (Jan 25, 2010)

[H]@RD5TUFF said:


> Your lucky, I was working late one night well not "really" late but pretty damn late for me as I usually go in to work at about 3-4 AM and leave about noon, it was about 8-9 PM on a friday ( one fo those days where everything breaks all at once, multipule times). I had just packed up gotten out the door, and lit my cigar (technically a cigarillo ) and looked out to see the parking lot almost completely empty, no surprise there, it's like 9 PM on a friday. I go to where my car should be and it's not there. . . ..  I think well there's no glass on the ground, and it's a safe and gated parking lot. So I call low jack, and tell them about the problem, they call me back 3 mins later saying my car was at a tow yard about 15 miles from my place of work, I call the cops, and call the tow yard. After about 2 hours of calling I find out the tow yard was asked to tow the car, because of it being an "unauthorized vehichle" I went and called a cab, got my car and told them I would be taking them to small claims.
> 
> Come to find out the day security guard had my car towed because he "didn't see" my parking sticker (despite the fact it sits right in the lower left corner on the drivers side on the front windshield ). I won the small claims case. And informed HR about the incident. Nothing happened to the security guy. But I came to find out that he is a huge New York fan (Yankees Jets Giants Nicks) but there is no TV in the lobby where he sits and does his "job" but he watches the games on ESPN and sometimes watches them streamed.  Well as of late the internet connection for his computer station/ laptop has been very erratic, it seems to go out exactly when ever a sports event featuring a team from New York is on.
> 
> Bottom line, don't mess with your IT guys.



Oh man!      Dude I'm laughing so hard right now I can barely type!


----------



## [H]@RD5TUFF (Jan 25, 2010)

Chicken Patty said:


> Oh man!      Dude I'm laughing so hard right now I can barely type!



That's how it's going to be until, he either apologizes, or I get bored, which ever comes first.



Chicken Patty said:


> our IT department is very good, but some guy actually asked me if I knew how to disable something related to USB.  I was like ooookkkkkkk.



:sigh: This is why they need to go back to practical application tests for the cert's, like what CISCO does for CCIE (Cisco Certified Internetwork Expert) I ahd to study for 3 months straight just top be ready for the written test, then i had the pass the Lab Sim <_<":. But there hasn't been a single thing I've encountered in the last 2 years that I haven't known how to fix. Also I have to go re-certify in about 8 months.  


Anyway enough thread jacking, back to the OT of the OP.

Did you decide to go with 7/16" or 1/2" tubing?


----------



## Chicken Patty (Jan 25, 2010)

[H]@RD5TUFF said:


> That's how it's going to be until, he either apologizes, or I get bored, which ever comes first.



our IT department is very good, but some guy actually asked me if I knew how to disable something related to USB.  I was like ooookkkkkkk.


----------



## Inioch (Jan 27, 2010)

[H]@RD5TUFF said:


> Anyway enough thread jacking, back to the OT of the OP.
> 
> Did you decide to go with 7/16" or 1/2" tubing?



No problem guys, I enjoyed the stories 

I went with this 1/2" tubing.

I figured I'll save myself some trouble, because it won't need any extra tricks to get on.


----------



## Yukikaze (Jan 27, 2010)

[H]@RD5TUFF said:


> Your lucky, I was working late one night well not "really" late but pretty damn late for me as I usually go in to work at about 3-4 AM and leave about noon, it was about 8-9 PM on a friday ( one fo those days where everything breaks all at once, multipule times). I had just packed up gotten out the door, and lit my cigar (technically a cigarillo ) and looked out to see the parking lot almost completely empty, no surprise there, it's like 9 PM on a friday. I go to where my car should be and it's not there. . . ..  I think well there's no glass on the ground, and it's a safe and gated parking lot. So I call low jack, and tell them about the problem, they call me back 3 mins later saying my car was at a tow yard about 15 miles from my place of work, I call the cops, and call the tow yard. After about 2 hours of calling I find out the tow yard was asked to tow the car, because of it being an "unauthorized vehichle" I went and called a cab, got my car and told them I would be taking them to small claims.
> 
> Come to find out the day security guard had my car towed because he "didn't see" my parking sticker (despite the fact it sits right in the lower left corner on the drivers side on the front windshield ). I won the small claims case. And informed HR about the incident. Nothing happened to the security guy. But I came to find out that he is a huge New York fan (Yankees Jets Giants Nicks) but there is no TV in the lobby where he sits and does his "job" but he watches the games on ESPN and sometimes watches them streamed.  Well as of late the internet connection for his computer station/ laptop has been very erratic, it seems to go out exactly when ever a sports event featuring a team from New York is on.
> 
> Bottom line, don't mess with your IT guys.






LOL.


----------



## Chicken Patty (Jan 27, 2010)

Inioch said:


> No problem guys, I enjoyed the stories
> 
> I went with this 1/2" tubing.
> 
> I figured I'll save myself some trouble, because it won't need any extra tricks to get on.


Just make sure you get some sorta clamps.


----------



## johnnyfiive (Jan 27, 2010)

I'm all about the 7/16 ID tubing. No need for clamps, looks cleaner, etc. Only issue is taking off the damn tubing. But like H@RD said, nothing a heatgun or hot water can't fix.


----------



## Inioch (Jan 27, 2010)

Chicken Patty said:


> Just make sure you get some sorta clamps.



I've got normal screw on clamps, but didn't like working with them, so now they're on with zip-ties. I'll be using plastic ones next.


----------



## phanbuey (Jan 27, 2010)

Inioch said:


> I've got normal screw on clamps, but didn't like working with them, so now they're on with zip-ties. I'll be using plastic ones next.



Zip ties work really well... Especially if you tighten them by pulling with pliers. I only use Manhattan clips to complete "the look".


----------



## Chicken Patty (Jan 27, 2010)

Zipties didn't work that great for me for some reason.   Anyways good luck.


----------



## [H]@RD5TUFF (Jan 27, 2010)

Chicken Patty said:


> Just make sure you get some sorta clamps.



Well I personally hate clamps they make the set up look cheap. I prefer zip ties.



Chicken Patty said:


> Zipties didn't work that great for me for some reason.   Anyways good luck.



Some people have a tough time with them, but patience and a pair of pliers seem to lead to the best results in my experience.



Inioch said:


> I've got normal screw on clamps, but didn't like working with them, so now they're on with zip-ties. I'll be using plastic ones next.



I have to say zip ties are a great choice, as they are cheap and abundant, and the look a lot cleaner. I also have been known to use cheap barbs, and use a can of epoxy enamel spray paint, and paint them black, and then rough them up with some 150 grit sand paper, then put some locktite (I prefer the blue if clear tubing is being used), and it will hold and be leak free till the second coming of Christ, the tubing will crack and get stiff, before you will have a leak at the fittings. The down side of this is that well you've trashed your fittings lol.  But the paint trick (minus the sanding part) works great, especially if you have a black CPU block. It adds a slight amount of thickness, but not soo much that it makes installation difficult, plus it looks slick. You may have to sand your fittings, though if you bought expensive chrome fittings that's kinda a hard pill to swallow.

But you should post some picks so we can maybe give some better advice.


----------



## Chicken Patty (Jan 27, 2010)

I ran 7/16th without any sort of clamp/ties without them leaking.  But since he's getting 1/2" tubing figured I'd give him some advise.


----------



## [H]@RD5TUFF (Jan 27, 2010)

Chicken Patty said:


> I ran 7/16th without any sort of clamp/ties without them leaking.  But since he's getting 1/2" tubing figured I'd give him some advise.



Sadly clamps, zip ties, and glue, are really the only way to make a 1/2 & 1/2 set up leak proof. I suppose he could use compression fittings, but I have never had any luck with them every time I have tried to use them, they have leaked.


----------



## Chicken Patty (Jan 27, 2010)

[H]@RD5TUFF said:


> Sadly clamps, zip ties, and glue, are really the only way to make a 1/2 & 1/2 set up leak proof. I suppose he could use compression fittings, but I have never had any luck with them every time I have tried to use them, they have leaked.



My first build had CPU/NB/SB/ and video card water cooled all with Koolance Compression fittings, worked great for me.


----------



## Inioch (Jan 28, 2010)

[H]@RD5TUFF said:


> Well I personally hate clamps they make the set up look cheap. I prefer zip ties.
> 
> Some people have a tough time with them, but patience and a pair of pliers seem to lead to the best results in my experience.
> 
> I have to say zip ties are a great choice, as they are cheap and abundant, and the look a lot cleaner.



Zip ties have worked great for me with this setup, not a single leak after them. I used pliers to tighten them.

I'm not sure about going to work on the fittings, so I'll try with the plastic clamps and if they don't work, then zip ties it is.



[H]@RD5TUFF said:


> But you should post some picks so we can maybe give some better advice.



The new tubing is still on its way. What would you like to see? Pics of the current setup are on page 3 of this thread.
I've already got plans on how to shorten the tubing. I'm going to turn the top rad 180 degrees and change the loop to: 

res-pump-cpu-rad-gpu-rad-res.

That should make it a lot cleaner.


----------



## [H]@RD5TUFF (Jan 28, 2010)

Chicken Patty said:


> My first build had CPU/NB/SB/ and video card water cooled all with Koolance Compression fittings, worked great for me.



Your like the 5th person to say the same thing,  it must have been operator error or something lol, but no matter what I did it leaked.



Inioch said:


> Zip ties have worked great for me with this setup, not a single leak after them. I used pliers to tighten them.
> 
> I'm not sure about going to work on the fittings, so I'll try with the plastic clamps and if they don't work, then zip ties it is.
> 
> ...



Sorry I thought the tubing was there lol (been pulling 18 hour days every day since Saturday, I'm past the point of fried ), but if your cool with painting the fittings I highly recommend it, it makes for look that's so much cleaner and better, than chrome/black IMO.


----------



## Chicken Patty (Jan 28, 2010)

[H]@RD5TUFF said:


> Your like the 5th person to say the same thing,  it must have been operator error or something lol, but no matter what I did it leaked.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I thought the tubing was there lol (been pulling 18 hour days every day since Saturday, I'm past the point of fried ), but if your cool with painting the fittings I highly recommend it, it makes for look that's so much cleaner and better, than chrome/black IMO.



Weird man.  Operator error   I liked the way you put that.


----------



## [H]@RD5TUFF (Jan 28, 2010)

Chicken Patty said:


> Weird man.  Operator error   I liked the way you put that.



Heh, it's actually a term that most IT departments use to describe problems that occur because of the end user, also it sounds better and more professional, that the user was being a dumbass and glued his phone line into the NIC card, because "it didn't fit right", also I can't exactly use the term "being a dumbass" in a evaluation/ recommendation report to HR, when someones job is on the line.

Ughhhhh ... sorry Inioch I thread jacked you again.:shadedshu

I'm going to have to start PM'ing lol.


----------



## Chicken Patty (Jan 28, 2010)

[H]@RD5TUFF said:


> Heh, it's actually a term that most IT departments use to describe problems that occur because of the end user, also it sounds better and more professional, that the user was being a dumbass and glued his phone line into the NIC card, because "it didn't fit right", also I can't exactly use the term "being a dumbass" in a evaluation/ recommendation report to HR, when someones job is on the line.
> 
> Ughhhhh ... sorry Inioch I thread jacked you again.:shadedshu
> 
> I'm going to have to start PM'ing lol.



PM's are fine, I do about 50-60  a day.  No issue!


----------



## Thrackan (Jan 28, 2010)

This entire discussion is why I love screw-in fittings  No clamps required whatsoever.


----------



## Inioch (Feb 12, 2010)

New tubing is here along with a second EK 4870 block and a backplate for the cpu block.
Now all I need is time to install them all.

That said, what is the best way to drain a loop? How would you do it if you were me?

The new tubing is quite a lot thinner than the old one:


----------



## Thrackan (Feb 12, 2010)

On your loop I'd pop the hose off the bottom of the GFX card. Make sure to place something under it of course.


----------



## Inioch (Jun 11, 2010)

It's summer time, free time aplenty and I'm planning on redoing my loop entirely. Going to finally put the other vga block in, install the backplate and change the tubing to the one shown in the pic above. That is, if I don't get a job for the summer in which case I'll go for an i5-750 setup.

A couple of questions:

Do 45 deg and 90 deg fittings reduce the flow and if yes then how much?
Do you think that my Dtek DB-1 pump is enough for a cpu+2xgpu+2240 rad loop?

I'll post a pic of what I thought about the tubing later today.

I'm really digging the CM 690 II and will probably change to that at some point. This guy gave me a couple of ideas to implement on the Tempest too.





Source


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## Chicken Patty (Jun 11, 2010)

Like what he did with the HDD cage   Looks good.


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## Thrackan (Jun 11, 2010)

I would have switched the fans on the bottom rad from push to pull, unless he's more concerned about dust than I am.


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## Inioch (Jun 11, 2010)

This is what I was thinking about now. 






Should clean the loop a lot compared to this.








Chicken Patty said:


> Like what he did with the HDD cage   Looks good.



I really like that part about the 690 II. With the tempest I had to remove both cages to fit the other rad.
I was also looking at his other build photos and I think I could fit my pump on the back like he did. Mine is only 7mm wider and he has the whole support bracket there.
Like I said, I think that's going to be my next case. Only problem is fitting a larger psu and a rad on the bottom. 
In the pictures he has a 16cm long psu with 29.5cm rad. That leaves 1.5cm for the cables.
A Swiftech like mine is 28.5cm so it would leave 2.5cm.

But, if I got a HX750 or HX850, they are 18cm long, so only 0.5cm for wires which is not enough.



Thrackan said:


> I would have switched the fans on the bottom rad from push to pull, unless he's more concerned about dust than I am.



I would do the same, have them pulling and the same on top, pulling out of the case.


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## Chicken Patty (Jun 11, 2010)

Inioch said:


> This is what I was thinking about now.
> 
> http://img.techpowerup.org/100611/Loop_v2.jpg
> 
> ...



I'm pretty sure you can find a good PSu that is shorter.  My BFG 1000W is pretty short.  You can look into that.


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## Inioch (Jun 12, 2010)

This list is pretty much what I'm limited to. They have the best selection/price. I was looking at the XFX unit, which is A Seasonic MD platform, It has scored very well in reviews, even on JonnyGuru.


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## Inioch (Jul 21, 2010)

Well, this thread is about to end very soon. I sold my Tempest and got me a CM 690 II Advanced. Just thought I'd try something new.

Now my question is, what to use to rinse the whole loop? It seems that the silver I had wasn't enough. There are some small spots of algae in the reservoir (acryl). Any ideas why it didn't work? I had my loop together for 6 months. How to clean it and the rest of the stuff?


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