# Steps to successful case modding



## de.das.dude (Aug 15, 2010)

this is my first guide. hope you enjoy it and that this is really helpful. your input is highly valued!! and if you have questions, post them and i will answer them as soon as i get home from college!!


*ONE-STOP CASE MODDING GUIDE!!*

First things first.
*You have to decide what your modding will be.*
Will it be a structural mod, a cooling mod or a paintjob?
Also if its a structural mod. i guess the main reason will be for cooling, and also *in case of every structural mod, its best to give a new paint job.* And hence i will describe most topics under structural mod. Read carefoolly. 




*Doin' a structural MOD:-*
1. *Designing:* Get a pen and paper and do some rough diagrams of what you want you PC to be. Make appropriate measurements all the time. take measurements in all three dimensions(height, width and depth) if necessary. This is also a time to check your cooling system's design work-ability. If you cannot visualize, try holding the fan with scotch tape in the places you want. More details in the Cooling Section.







*LeTs SeE SoMe Tips:-*
See, in the picture below, i have mounted a piece of aluminium over a larger hole for 2 fans. The Al sheet has been taped for diagrams.
This is how i did the drawing. Step by step:-


Take a fan and positioned it in the middle from top and bottom. Draw outlines of the top and bottom parts of the fan.
Extend the base and the top lines on both sides. (for making sure both fans are properly lined up)
Take equal lengths from left and the right sides and place the fans. Draw their outlines for the rest of the sides
Now you will notice you have two square shapes the exact size of your fans. So for mounting screws heres what you do,
You will have to leave about 2cm(i am doing holes for 80mms) from all the corners and mark these. Here is what you should end up with:











2. *Testing Design:* This is very important for the future safety of your work. cut out the design on hard paper and put it on the case to see if it fits.



3. *Applying scotch/masking tape on your work area:* This is to protect your work area and surroundings from scratches. This is also good for drawing. Use any tape that does not leave any residue to the surface and yet has a strong hold. *Apply tape on both sides of the work area!! flying bits can damage the underside too!*



4. *Final Drawing:* This is THE final frontier. This is where imagination ends and the real work and skills come into play. Be very very very careful. Place fans etc. over the drawing to see if everything lines up PERFECTLY.







5. *Cutting:* I choose a rotary tool to cut computer cases.* Pair it along with cut-off blades reinforced with aluminium oxide* and you have a real cutter.




_Dremel cut-off model 426 or 426B_
I prefer these reinforced ones because they last long and cut quickly.

*TiPs WhIlE CuTtInG:-*
a. *Never apply force on the cutting blade.* Let the blade do its work. If you apply pressure you will prematurely grind down the blade. Applying pressure may also cause you blade to break and send splints flying in all directions.

b. *Engrave a line before doing the actual cutting.* This prevents the blade from running off in wrong directions.

c. *Always move the blade in the direction opposite to the way it wants to go.* This prevents the blade from "running off".

d. *If you have an industrial ruler made of high strength steel, you may place it along the cutting line to use it as a blade guider.* You may use scotch tape to stick this in place.

e. *Always hold the dremel with two hands.* However you may use one hand when using the extension.

f. *Use the speed setting at 15,000RPM when cutting cases.* Optimum cutting performance for aluminium re-inforced blades.

g. *Never block the holes on your dremel/rotary tool.* Dont want your dremel to have a pre mature death do we??

h. *Pause when you think your tool is getting too hot.* This will prevent burning out the coil of the motor.

i. *Never leave the motor on when you are not cutting.* Only switch it on just as you are about to touch the metal. This prevents overheating and safety reasons are there too.

j. *Do not have anyone(or yourself) in the same plane as the blade is rotating.* This will save you in case of accidents when bits fly off. When bits fly they tend to stay in the plane of the cutting blade (neglecting strong winds).

k. Wear full sleeve cotton clothes.

l. You may wet the scotch tape a bit to keep the metal cool and make your blade last longer. This is also applicable for drilling. The secret mixture is soap solution (concentrated) mixed with machine oil. 



6. *Sanding the Cut Edges:* This is a vital part of your project. When your project is over a duration of a couple of days, rust seems to collect on the cut edges. This rust needs to be gotten off. Also dremel/rotarytools dont exactly cut clean lines, so you need to tidy them up. You may even cut yourself on the cut sideslaugh.
You may use a round sided file, or the rotary sander. This depends on the level of expertise you have in using a dremel/rotary tool.

If you decide to use the dremel/rotary tool, your sanding bit will look something like this.




They are basically a rubber mounted on the axis and on this rubber you can mount the sand paper "rolls".

The finished product should look something like this (or better):





7.*Mounting Parts:* Okay, now that you have some decently cut holes for your case, the next step is to mount parts in their respective places. You can mount these in either of the following ways:-

*Heavy duty tape*- These come in various colors and specifications. I use the same tape that i use for drawing when cutting for this purpose. And belive me this tape is really good. 2 reels come for a dollar. Its called NOPI® 4349, made by tesa, Hamburg.




the 2kg side panel is hanging from the fan, attached only by tape.
*Screws*- Normal screw mounting. May be used for heavier products.
*Industrial glue*- Any industrial glue available at the local hardware store. Use only for permanent sticking together of parts, like metal-metal, metal-plastic, metal-acrylic, etc.



8. *Painting:* get yourself some transparent metal lacquer and apply it on the cut edges using a fine brush. The way of applying depends on the finish of the original paintwork that was on your case.
If it was a *shiny finish, you can just apply a thin layer*.
If it was *matte sand like finish, you can apply the paint and use a sponge in quick presses* to get that effect.

*TIP: only applying a thin layer on the edge is the best and the easiest, no need of applying lacquer all over the place.*

*In Case You Are Giving A Full Paint-Job...*
*Tip-Remember the bits you cut out when modding your case?? These will come in handy nfor checking if your paint has dried!!*
Steps:-

Sand your case clean. Also sand the cut out part
Now apply a nice layer on both.
Check the cut out part if the primer has dried enough.
Apply your first/base layer.
Check the cut out again if the precious layer has dried.
Apply 2nd or final layer.  You may create different types of finish on this layer.
*If you did some special paint-job(pinstripe, design, bla bla...) in the last layer, don't forget to touch-up with a fresh clear coat after the previous one has dried.*





*COOLING BASICS*
*The main aim of cooling is to keep you computer cool*. As if you don't know that already....  i will emphasize on air-cooling as i don't have any expertise in other forms.

There are basically two things to be done in case of air cooling.

Intake (cool air from outside)
Exhaust (hot air from inside)

Generally thse two are used in complex forms to give the ultimate air cooling.
Air cooling starts from the case you buy/ or the way you mod your case.

*Here are some positive points when looking at a case.*

*There should be ports or holes, if possible at all major heat generating part locations.* This really depends on the mobo PCB design and here's what the modding comes into play
*The PSU shuld be at the bottom.* Normally when the PSU is at the top, it actually uses the already heated up air available at the top of the case for cooling itself.
*Must have some way of giving outer air to the CPU.* PEOPLE WITH HEAT PIPE TYPE OF COOLING DONT NECESSARILY REQUIRE A CPU INTAKE.

here are some picture to say all that.

For Bottom PSU





For Top PSU
(this is my case andCase(chassis))


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## dr emulator (madmax) (Aug 23, 2010)

i would also warn people to be cautious of which sanding bands they get, as i bought some the other year and they were the wrong way around (*check them in the shop*), meaning that although they sanded they also tore appart and flew off nearly hitting me in the eye, suffice to say i won't be getting anymore of those cheap pieces of st 

also *don't forget some safety glasses*


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## de.das.dude (Aug 24, 2010)

hi doc you here too??

and obviously *SAFETY GLASSES IS A MUUUUUUUUUST ALSO WEAR A MASK IF YOU ARE A NOOB.*
and sorry i havent updated this thread. i have internals for 1st sem cooming up next week. and spending 6Hrs at college is really tiring.


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## Thrackan (Aug 24, 2010)

The one and only invaluable tip:

*Measure twice, you can cut only once*


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## dr emulator (madmax) (Aug 24, 2010)

de.das.dude said:


> hi doc you here too??
> 
> and obviously *SAFETY GLASSES IS A MUUUUUUUUUST ALSO WEAR A MASK IF YOU ARE A NOOB.*
> and sorry i havent updated this thread. i have internals for 1st sem cooming up next week. and spending 6Hrs at college is really tiring.



yep the news hog from over there is also a member over here 

i really aught to look for tech news aswell for over here


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## de.das.dude (Aug 24, 2010)

Thrackan said:


> The one and only invaluable tip:
> 
> *Measure twice, you can cut only once*



hey i tried to be funny.



dr emulator (madmax) said:


> yep the news hog from over there is also a member over here
> 
> i really aught to look for tech news aswell for over here


only the news??


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## de.das.dude (Sep 4, 2010)

Updated!


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## Fatal (Sep 4, 2010)

Is there much of a difference in temperature if you have them two fans bringing cold air in? From the test that I have done with a Antec 900 Positive airflow was much better than Negative. I know positive airflow is not for every case but Its worth a shot for testing could see some good results. Great write up on the mod de.das.dude.


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## de.das.dude (Sep 4, 2010)

Fatal said:


> Is there much of a difference in temperature if you have them two fans bringing cold air in? From the test that I have done with a Antec 900 Positive airflow was much better than Negative. I know positive airflow is not for every case but Its worth a shot for testing could see some good results. Great write up on the mod de.das.dude.



Actually from my experience, this all gets down in the end to what you have and how your things are arranged.

and the graphics cooling setup, i tested both methods and found the exhaust one a bit cooler than when they were both bringing in cold air. this was because my chipset has passive cooling(no fans) and so the exhaust helps take the hot air away and the cool air automatically comes in.


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## Fatal (Sep 4, 2010)

Thanks for the info I see you check all options I was just wondering.


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## de.das.dude (Sep 4, 2010)

yes... i check every day.  even check at college if i get the oppurtunity


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