# MRCLs first contact with water



## MRCL (Apr 3, 2009)

First off, I'd like to thank everyone in this thread for supporting me in choosing the parts and sharing their knowledge and experience with me. You rock!

Alrighty, I found my water cooling parts in the mail today It's my first try on a water setup, and I can't WAIT to start building! Here's the contents of the parcel:


Laing DDC-1T (Swiftech MCP350)
XSPC Laing DDC Reservoir
Black ICE GT Xtreme 360 Rad
Watercool HK Rev. 3
3 x Scythe Slip Stream 1900 rpm 120mm fans
2 x PrimoCHILL Dye Bomb - Electric UV Blue
6 x 10/8mm (8x1mm) fittings G1/4 - gerändelt (whatever that translates to)
PUR 10/8mm ckear tubing



























And all that will find a home in the beautiful COsmos S by Cooler Master






So the days of my computer lieing around like this will finally be numbered...





I'm damn excited and I hope everything goes along well... I'll keep you up to date with the progress Tho I haven't really time the next few days...anyway. I'll find the time!


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## crtecha (Apr 3, 2009)

I cant wait to start WC'n.  If you dont mind me asking how much did you have to spend on the whole set up?


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## MRCL (Apr 3, 2009)

crtecha said:


> I cant wait to start WC'n.  If you dont mind me asking how much did you have to spend on the whole set up?



It was ~400 CHF, approx 460 dollar. For the WC setup alone, that is.


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## crtecha (Apr 3, 2009)

Thanks.  I better start saving up then.


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## Binge (Apr 3, 2009)

Not sure if you can read this but this is a mod you should do to that pump to increase it's power.

http://forum.effizienzgurus.de/f23/howto-laing-pro-zur-ultra-umloeten-t1106.html?referrerid=29#overview


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## h3llb3nd4 (Apr 3, 2009)

you lucky bugger... ditching me, I'm still stuck with a crappy intel stock fan and you jumped to WC already...


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## MRCL (Apr 3, 2009)

Binge said:


> Not sure if you can read this but this is a mod you should do to that pump to increase it's power.
> 
> http://forum.effizienzgurus.de/f23/howto-laing-pro-zur-ultra-umloeten-t1106.html?referrerid=29#overview



Why shouldn't I be able to read it? Hmm I'm not very good at soldering, and last time I've done it is like six years ago... we'll see.
Anyway I'm still struggling to unmount the top of that pump... damn nonstandard screws are ubertightened, and I don't have appropriate tools... great



h3llb3nd4 said:


> you lucky bugger... ditching me, I'm still stuck with a crappy intel stock fan and you jumped to WC already...



Lol... I had to, payrise was a sign from above


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## HammerON (Apr 3, 2009)

Looks good ~ now slap that puppy together 
Water cooling is fun (and expensive)


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## MRCL (Apr 4, 2009)

HammerON said:


> Looks good ~ now slap that puppy together
> Water cooling is fun (and expensive)



At the moment its frustrating Managed to get the torx screws off the pump with a little help from my buddy Gaspipe Pliers and his fellow mate Torx Bit. Should have tried that from the start, would've saved me the joy of a swiss army knife pressing into your skin. Anyway, thats solved now. What really gets me  is the mounting of the rad. Seems the Cosmos doesn't really like the Black Ice GTXes...


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## Binge (Apr 4, 2009)

MRCL said:


> Why shouldn't I be able to read it? Hmm I'm not very good at soldering, and last time I've done it is like six years ago... we'll see.
> Anyway I'm still struggling to unmount the top of that pump... damn nonstandard screws are ubertightened, and I don't have appropriate tools... great
> 
> 
> ...



I'm not sure what languages you can speak/read/understand.


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## h3llb3nd4 (Apr 4, 2009)

English is one


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## phanbuey (Apr 4, 2009)

Are you going to cool the vid cards too? that rad could easily take it with those fans.


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## MRCL (Apr 4, 2009)

Binge said:


> I'm not sure what languages you can speak/read/understand.



German, Swiss German (yes that is a language and sounds like this), English as you may have noticed and some French



phanbuey said:


> Are you going to cool the vid cards too? that rad could easily take it with those fans.



For the moment I don't include them in the loop. Might do so later or with other cards.


Edit: Just ordered some longer screws and some minor stuff I forgot to order at first


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## HammerON (Apr 5, 2009)

MRCL said:


> At the moment its frustrating Managed to get the torx screws off the pump with a little help from my buddy Gaspipe Pliers and his fellow mate Torx Bit. Should have tried that from the start, would've saved me the joy of a swiss army knife pressing into your skin. Anyway, thats solved now. What really gets me  is the mounting of the rad. Seems the Cosmos doesn't really like the Black Ice GTXes...


Where are you trying to mount the Black Ice? Rear, top???


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## MRCL (Apr 5, 2009)

HammerON said:


> Where are you trying to mount the Black Ice? Rear, top???



On top, inside of the case. Enough space and holes, but the screws are too damn short.


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## tzitzibp (Apr 5, 2009)

MRCL said:


> On top, inside of the case. Enough space and holes, but the screws are too damn short.



Best place to put it!


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## MRCL (Apr 5, 2009)

tzitzibp said:


> Best place to put it!



Yes, it would be perfect, and I can have six fans push/pulling


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## tzitzibp (Apr 5, 2009)

MRCL said:


> Yes, it would be perfect, and I can have six fans push/pulling



what fans are they?


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## MRCL (Apr 5, 2009)

tzitzibp said:


> what fans are they?



Three Scythe Slip Streams and I ordered some Yate Loons. Lol I hooked the Scythes to a PSU to see how they perform without regulation... well, three of these and you don't need air conditioning. Or leaf blower.


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## h3llb3nd4 (Apr 5, 2009)

I've always wanted to see somone stuff their radiator in their freezer, but no one ever does... wonder if the temp will drop dramatically if you do that...


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## MRCL (Apr 5, 2009)

h3llb3nd4 said:


> I've always wanted to see somone stuff their radiator in their freezer, but no one ever does... wonder if the temp will drop dramatically if you do that...



Because that wouldnt work since the heat is trapped in the freezer, so at one point it starts heating instead of cooling.


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## Rock God (Apr 5, 2009)

I love my setup too.


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## MRCL (Apr 5, 2009)

Rock God said:


> I love my setup too.



Whatcha got?


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## technicks (Apr 5, 2009)

Nice stuff MRCL.
I would advice to take your time and try different ways to set it up. 
Took me a days thinking and a few hours realizing what would make the best way for me.

Btw. I also ordered the res/pump top and UV red tubing. Also got a Q9550 E0.
Decided to sell the Q9450 because the 8x multi was bugging me.

Also would advice to mix the dye bomb with the distilled water before you feed it in the res.
This way you can see the color better and your res stays cleaner on the inside because my Swiftech res had a nasty stain. Because i put it directly into the res. Took me 1 hour to clean it.


Btw would the mod for the Liang pump give much more performance. I read that it ads about 600rpm.
And would it make much more noise or would it be acceptable?


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## MRCL (Apr 5, 2009)

technicks said:


> Nice stuff MRCL.
> I would advice to take your time and try different ways to set it up.
> Took me a days thinking and a few hours realizing what would make the best way for me.
> 
> ...



No I won't rush it. Its my precious hardware thats in possible danger! Got to handle that with care.
Thanks for the tip, I planned to add the color directly into the res...


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## blkhogan (Apr 5, 2009)

I'll be watching this closely, going to do my first water cooling this spring. Lots of pictures please.


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## MRCL (Apr 5, 2009)

blkhogan said:


> I'll be watching this closely, going to do my first water cooling this spring. Lots of pictures please.



Lol thanks, I try to document


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## Sadasius (Apr 6, 2009)

Very nice water cooling parts. Just doing the CPU?


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## MRCL (Apr 6, 2009)

Sadasius said:


> Very nice water cooling parts. Just doing the CPU?



Yep, for now just CPU.. GPUs are cool enough on air so far, maybe I'll add them later.


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## mlee49 (Apr 6, 2009)

I'd love to see some completed pics.  Nice parts list man.


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## MRCL (Apr 6, 2009)

mlee49 said:


> I'd love to see some completed pics.  Nice parts list man.



Gotta wait for them screws first. When they arrive within the next two or three days, I can finally start building


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## tzitzibp (Apr 7, 2009)

Noooo......You just want to boost our couriosity! (hope i spelled it correctly!)


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## MRCL (Apr 7, 2009)

tzitzibp said:


> Noooo......You just want to boost our couriosity! (hope i spelled it correctly!)



Hell no, and I damn hope the parts make it to here before those easter holidays...


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## tzitzibp (Apr 7, 2009)

we all hope you do!


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## MRCL (Apr 9, 2009)

tzitzibp said:


> we all hope you do!



Well it worked Parcel came today. I have everything I need now, finally can start building and documenting tonight


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## crtecha (Apr 9, 2009)

Good luck and I cant wait to see it finished


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## h3llb3nd4 (Apr 9, 2009)

so pics up by tomorrow night! YAY!!


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## MRCL (Apr 9, 2009)

h3llb3nd4 said:


> so pics up by tomorrow night! YAY!!



Uuuh depends on where you live


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## technicks (Apr 9, 2009)

MRCL. When you mount the res/top on the pump make sure that the space around the round thing in the middle is even. Just turn the the res/top and you will see the difference.

Also i noticed some difference in the way the pump circulates the water when filling.
When i used the separate res filling it up took a few minutes. Somehow using the res/top filling up took about ten minutes cause the pump kept on circulating air with the water. After ten minutes all the air was gone and everything worked perfect. 

Hope to see some pics soon.


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## MRCL (Apr 9, 2009)

Alrighty, progress report! Please note that I am posting this on "The Valium Snail", my crappy laptop. I just spent 45 minutes installing the mobile phone software and d&d'ing the pics from the phone to the comp and upload them to here

So here are the pics:

- Rad with the three Scythes and the soon to be mounted Yate Loons






- Here's the mounted rad. Kudos to the guys mounting these in small cases...it's a pain. BUT: No pain, no gain





- Here the Yate Loons. Cosmos S is perfect! So I got a triple rad with six fans push/pulling





- Aaand here you see the power they have at full speed. Almost inaudible on lowest voltage, but dude, they push some serious CFM.





- Heres the Watercool Heatkiller mounted on my Maximus Formula. I was stupid enough to forget to order the backplate, but the nut-mounting works quite fine and wasn't really that much of a hassle to install.





- Um, that pic I took while taking a break. Intedned to show off the intensity of the "hyper brightness"... well they aren't that bright  I wanted to install them on the res, but I'll go with the blue light that came with it. Excuse the drugged up look, some smoke came into my eye


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## technicks (Apr 9, 2009)

Looks great so far. Cant wait to see more pics.


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## MRCL (Apr 9, 2009)

Progress report #2. I hope everything is tight and fits snugly, soon the water will be added.

- Here's everything that's needed mounted in the case. I'm not entirely happy with the positioning of the res, but I didn't really find an other good spot for it.





- Now with the hoses mounted. 





- An other angle.






Alright, wish me luck you guys, as I'm about to fill the loop.


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## technicks (Apr 10, 2009)

I would unplug everything out of the mobo. Nothing must be attached. You should only use the 24 pin psu connector i showed you. U did get that didn't you?
Or you should use the paperclip method to power up the psu.

The connector that comes with the pump is for fan controlling. So you don't need it in first place.

Then just fill the res and switch on the psu. for 2 seconds. The pump should begin to run and displace water. Also would suggest to put some cloth under the fittings if it might drip it wont go on your hardware.

I also did the second time in one step but i knew the parts where all sealed and would not leek.

First time i build it up. Then took the mobo out so no hardware was in the case and tested for leaks.
Then i put the mobo back in, carefully connected the blocks and powered up.

This was the first time checking the parts and seals.


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## MRCL (Apr 10, 2009)

technicks said:


> I would unplug everything out of the mobo.
> The connector that comes with the pump is for fan controlling. So you don't need it.
> 
> Then just fill the res and switch on the psu. for 2 seconds. The pump should begin to run and displace water. Also would suggest to put some cloth under the fittings if it might drip it wont go on your hardware.
> ...



I will run the pump off another PSU. So no danger there. Well I could unplug the fan connector, yes. And thanks for the tips. I need a cigarette first


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## technicks (Apr 10, 2009)

I was all freaking out here thinking that MAYBE you did not use a second psu.

Btw you said you are not quit happy with the placing of the pump.
It's probably the best place to put it since it should be at the lowest point of the setup.

Also you may need so padding under the pump or the noise will drive you mad.


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## MRCL (Apr 10, 2009)

technicks said:


> I was all freaking out here thinking that MAYBE you did not use a second psu.
> 
> Btw you said you are not quit happy with the placing of the pump.
> It's probably the best place to put it since it should be at the lowest point of the setup.
> ...



Lol Yeh the locaton is alright for that matter. But I would've liked it t be... somewhere else down here But I guess its okay. And there is padding, some neoprene stuff that came with it. Okay, dye is mixed with the demineralized water, its serious business now. I hope everything will be okay, this laptop here is driving me NUTS with its slowlyness.


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## technicks (Apr 10, 2009)

I will cross fingers for you.

I think you will need about 0.5L water.


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## kyle2020 (Apr 10, 2009)

Very impressive. My only gripe is that id have gone for maybe 1/2" tubing, that stuff your using looks a little lost inside your case 

MOAR PICKCHORES!


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## technicks (Apr 10, 2009)

I suggested it to. But it's easy to change later on i guess. If he feels the need to.


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## MRCL (Apr 10, 2009)

Leak testing in progress. There is a leaky spot, thankfully not within reach of PCBs. Trying t fix that right now. Yes, there will be moar pix:lol: And because of the tubing... yeah I know it looks...petite. But who knows. If that works out for me, I might switch. I'm a starter, this is my entry-setup


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## MRCL (Apr 10, 2009)

Ok, here the pics of the leak testing:

- Before first switch-on of the pump






- Test in progress





- See that blue square? There's a leak somewhere between the fitting and the rad. I dunno why tho. Its driving me mad.Can't figure why it leaks there. Oh well,keep on tryin'


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## kyle2020 (Apr 10, 2009)

whats that tape called . . . the white plumbers stuff, ptf tape or something? should seal the barb and the rad off nicely if you wrap some of that around your barb.


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## technicks (Apr 10, 2009)

You mean Teflon tape.


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## kyle2020 (Apr 10, 2009)

technicks said:


> You mean Teflon tape.



Thats the stuff! (at least, I think it is lol).


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## MRCL (Apr 10, 2009)

kyle2020 said:


> whats that tape called . . . the white plumbers stuff, ptf tape or something? should seal the barb and the rad off nicely if you wrap some of that around your barb.



Gotta see if we still have a tube of that around. Examined the fitting. Nothing out of the ordinary. Lets see how that night turns out


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## technicks (Apr 10, 2009)

Well i am off to bed. Have to work in 6 hours so it's already a short sleep.

Keep us updated i will check int the morning.

Good luck!


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## MRCL (Apr 10, 2009)

technicks said:


> Well i am off to bed. Have to work in 6 hours so it's already a short sleep.
> 
> Keep us updated i will check int the morning.
> 
> Good luck!



This is a good idea. Need the sleep. Willcome back toit tomorrow. It seems it only leaks when force is applied - eg the pump is on. Otherwise, no water escapes the loop. Yeh Yeh... good night everybody.


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## h3llb3nd4 (Apr 10, 2009)

I like that 24pin extender, really nice
Cant wait how this project turns out....


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## MRCL (Apr 10, 2009)

h3llb3nd4 said:


> I like that 24pin extender, really nice
> Cant wait how this project turns out....



Right now, it rests. I found some sealing paste, but guess what... its so old, the whole tube dried out. I reseated the o-ring of the fitting, but to no avail. Can't do anything right now, because all the hardware stores are closed for three days.


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## crtecha (Apr 10, 2009)

you can use a plastic bag if you dont have teflon.  Just your average thin plastic shopping back.


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## MRCL (Apr 10, 2009)

crtecha said:


> you can use a plastic bag if you dont have teflon.  Just your average thin plastic shopping back.



...how do you mean that


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## h3llb3nd4 (Apr 10, 2009)

I' rather not try... too risky


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## phanbuey (Apr 10, 2009)

crtecha said:


> you can use a plastic bag if you dont have teflon.  Just your average thin plastic shopping back.



That actually works pretty well.  That and ketchup to clean the oxidation off a copper block if you dont want to re-lap it.


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## h3llb3nd4 (Apr 10, 2009)

simple stuff, huh...
crap I didn't try any...


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## crtecha (Apr 10, 2009)

You would just cut a strip and wrap the threads or barbs depending on your set up.  I wouldnt recommend it for the long term.  I worked as a carpenter and did a lot of diy stuff well still do.  You can do a lot with little money


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## MRCL (Apr 10, 2009)

crtecha said:


> You would just cut a strip and wrap the threads or barbs depending on your set up.  I wouldnt recommend it for the long term.  I worked as a carpenter and did a lot of diy stuff well still do.  You can do a lot with little money



Huh. I can try that.


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## MRCL (Apr 10, 2009)

Hm either it doesn't work for me or I did it wrong :lol:


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## Sadasius (Apr 10, 2009)

Drain it and start over. Means you have a problem with the fitting or the 'bung' hole on the rad. Could be a nick or something that is undermining the ring on the fitting. Using Teflon tape is a no no. It will expand the threads and then it will always leak, especially in acrylic, delrin etc. Take your time and see what the real problem is.


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## crtecha (Apr 10, 2009)

ahh yeah im sorry I didnt think about the plastics threads being softer.  Im used to black pipe work.  Sorry MRCL it does work but maybe not best for you.


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## MRCL (Apr 10, 2009)

Sadasius said:


> Drain it and start over. Means you have a problem with the fitting or the 'bung' hole on the rad. Could be a nick or something that is undermining the ring on the fitting. Using Teflon tape is a no no. It will expand the threads and then it will always leak, especially in acrylic, delrin etc. Take your time and see what the real problem is.



Te problem is, that there is one tiny spot on the fitting thread, thats leaking. Small enough that only a drop every five seconds comes out, but its there. And I do not know why it does that.



crtecha said:


> ahh yeah im sorry I didnt think about the plastics threads being softer.  Im used to black pipe work.  Sorry MRCL it does work but maybe not best for you.



Lol okay


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## h3llb3nd4 (Apr 10, 2009)

silicone?putty?


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## Sadasius (Apr 10, 2009)

Here is a small checklist of possible leak problems to look for in your situation.

1) A nick in the metal on the fitting where the ring sits. Even when the ring is compressed the fluid can leak past the ring. Solution....Replace fitting!

2) A bad weld in the 'bung' hole on the rad. Sometimes the GTX has a bad brazen weld that attach's the bung hole to the rad and can have a small pinhole leak that is persistent. Solution......RMA rad. Don't try to fix a broken bung hole....LOL 

3) Rad bolts too long and has punctured a water tube. Funny enough but some people do do this without even realizing it and if the rad is on an angle it will move to the lowest point which is a fitting and make it look like it's leaking from a fitting when it's not. Solution.....Replace rad.


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## MRCL (Apr 10, 2009)

Sadasius said:


> Here is a small checklist of possible leak problems to look for in your situation.
> 
> 1) A nick in the metal on the fitting where the ring sits. Even when the ring is compressed the fluid can leak past the ring. Solution....Replace fitting!



Must be that one. I just wrapped a rubber band you find in every household around the connection point. Like an external o-ring. I held the fluid back quite a while, but it leaked again. So really seems theres that nick in the fitting.

Sucks.


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## Sadasius (Apr 10, 2009)

It happens more then we would all like to admit. It is why I order way more fittings then I need. It especially sucks when it's a $8 fitting or more.


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## MRCL (Apr 10, 2009)

Sadasius said:


> It happens more then we would all like to admit. It is why I order way more fittings then I need. It especially sucks when it's a $8 fitting or more.



Should have ordered more, too. You know what also sucks? Discovering this while its Easter holidays. If I order some fittings again, I will have them by next friday with inhuman luck.


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## MRCL (Apr 10, 2009)

*sigh* alright, ordered a few more fittings... damnit.


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## MRCL (Apr 10, 2009)

A-HA! I just rethought that rubber band thing. Cut it to the right size... but it inthe fitting and the o-ring on top. Double-o-ring if you will. Guess what, it somehow works. No leakage. Will test now for a longer time than 10 minutes. Hope this DIY thing works out


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## tzitzibp (Apr 10, 2009)

MRCL said:


> A-HA! I just rethought that rubber band thing. Cut it to the right size... but it inthe fitting and the o-ring on top. Double-o-ring if you will. Guess what, it somehow works. No leakage. Will test now for a longer time than 10 minutes. Hope this DIY thing works out



i had to (as you call it) Double-o-ring at some point.... and it was OK! but I suggest you let it run for a couple of hours instead of just 10 minutes! just to be safe!


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## MRCL (Apr 10, 2009)

tzitzibp said:


> i had to (as you call it) Double-o-ring at some point.... and it was OK! but I suggest you let it run for a couple of hours instead of just 10 minutes! just to be safe!



Thats what I'm doing right now. It looks pretty safe, but I don't trust it yet.


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## crtecha (Apr 10, 2009)

Awesome MRCL im glad you got your leak plugged.  Ill keep my fingers crossed while your testing


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## MRCL (Apr 10, 2009)

Well, been leak testing for four hours straight now. No leaks occured, the rubber band mod seems to be reliable  The PSU however is pushing me more and more to the edge of insanity, as it seems to by inspired by an aircraft turbine *sigh* Almost louder than a FX5800..


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## crtecha (Apr 10, 2009)

its always something huh?


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## MRCL (Apr 10, 2009)

crtecha said:


> its always something huh?



Lol if it goes without problems, somethings not right  But this is my fault, could've used a quieter PSU, but was too lazy to loosen four screws.


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## tzitzibp (Apr 10, 2009)

what are you going to do about it?


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## MRCL (Apr 10, 2009)

tzitzibp said:


> what are you going to do about it?



Hook it up the main PSU with everything else. Works fine! 20° temperature drop under load, very satisfying. But I'm still observing the setup. You never know. Maybe I'll let it run overnight with anoter PSU. I don't trust the whole thing yet.

But seeing the temperatures, it was definately worth the work.


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## tzitzibp (Apr 10, 2009)

i know exactly what you mean!

hope all goes well!


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## MRCL (May 10, 2009)

Alright guys, this thread gets updated now! As some of you may know, I have two 4890s. Loud, and unstable when overclocked with the reference cooling. As a man of action, I hereby present you:

*Radeon 4890 CF Watercooled*

- Dis how everything started this afternoon. The two 4890s and the two EK 4890 waterblocks.






- Sexy close-up of a naked 4890 *hawt!*





- And here a close-up of an EK block. Man those things are cool!





- And this, boys and girls, happens when a GPU and a waterblock like each other soooo much, they deciede to get together a little closer.





- This here is the result of long long thinking where to put the damn single rad. On the back was not possible, the plastic wing is blocking the rad. On the bottom not possible due to the pump sitting there. So I had this idea here:





- And from another angle. It doesn't stick out the front that much. And it gives the whole enclosure a somehow mean look. Like industrial. I for my part like it.





- And this is the finished look. Its leak testing now, so far no leaks.




Speaking of leaks, I'd like to make a recommendation: To connect the GPU waterblocks, I first wanted to use a SLI/CF bridge like this one. 
People, don't buy them. They leak like a 90 year old. I was so glad that I ordered more normal fittings than I needed. It was a friggin detail work, but I did manage to connect the blocks:





Well thats it  I sure hope everything still works, I absolutely don't feel like disassemble everything again.

What do you think?


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## h3llb3nd4 (May 10, 2009)

Wow! When I saw it, I shat bricks
Holy Crap its awesome!!!


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## kyle2020 (May 10, 2009)

Any temperature results? Aesthetics are totally superfluous if it cools like a dog . . .


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## MRCL (May 10, 2009)

kyle2020 said:


> Any temperature results? Aesthetics are totally superfluous if it cools like a dog . . .



Nope not yet. Its still in leak testing progress. So far for like an hour.
And it looks better in real life than in the pics.


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## MRCL (May 10, 2009)

Okay, temperatures: 

CPU: Takes the addition of two GPUs rather well. Idle average 42° (26° ambient (FUCK its hot)) and load 56°. 

GPU: Idle temps 39°/41°. Load times I have to evaluate yet. Furmark testing gave strange readings,  they did not match in any way. First run 81°, second run 56°... I'll go after that.

HDD: If you have seen my single rad contraption, you certainly wonder: How hot will those HDDs get, so close together, and only receiving warm air? Well... HDD 1: 29° HDD 2: 34°. It suprises even me.

Conclusion: It is worth it. It is so damn silent now, and everything still is cool. Considering the unusually high temps for may. Seriously, 26° at night in friggin may...


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## phanbuey (May 11, 2009)

MRCL said:


> Okay, temperatures:
> 
> CPU: Takes the addition of two GPUs rather well. Idle average 42° (26° ambient (FUCK its hot)) and load 56°.
> 
> ...



Watter wetter will help with the temps a bit - by a few C at maximum load


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## HammerON (May 11, 2009)

Nice job on the 4890 waterblocks (EK)
Before the GTX 295 I had two 4870s under water using the Koolance blocks. And before that I had two 3870s under water using the Koolance blocks. they kept the cards nice and cool and you didn't have to worry about fan speeds/overheating 
I am curious about your GPU temps though. Let us know after you run some tests...


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## JrRacinFan (May 11, 2009)

The project turned out very nicely MRCL. I'm bout to take the plunge also. Will be starting a worklog as well and link yours there for mentioning.


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## MRCL (May 11, 2009)

HammerON said:


> Nice job on the 4890 waterblocks (EK)
> Before the GTX 295 I had two 4870s under water using the Koolance blocks. And before that I had two 3870s under water using the Koolance blocks. they kept the cards nice and cool and you didn't have to worry about fan speeds/overheating
> I am curious about your GPU temps though. Let us know after you run some tests...



GPUs after 3dm06 runs: 44°/55°. Nice to see that the hotter card is a damn good 30° cooler than with stock cooling.


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## crtecha (May 11, 2009)

Looking good brudda   I cant wait to convert!!!


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