# Watercooling FAQ/guide



## Fitseries3 (Feb 20, 2008)

i think it's time we THOROUGHLY document, on our site, proper watercooling, FAQ, and anything water related. possibly a sticky?

i will edit this first post as YOU collectively help compile all the knowledge you feel others should know.


Manufacturers_____

*D-tek* - Makers of the Fusion CPU and Fusion GPU blocks as well as a few other things.
*Swiftech* - provides a vast variety of water kits, CPU, GPU, chipset blocks as well as radiators, pumps and reservoirs. 
*Danger Den* - very good selection of waterblocks for just about anything you can buy. also have reservoirs, radiators, pumps, as well as unique cases.
*EK* - some of the best blocks money can buy. more expensive but often outperform other blocks. a wide variety of selection for just about anything. also make very good reservoirs.
*Koolance* - makers of decent pre-designed systems. also offer a good variety of GPU blocks. very popular for their barbs/fittings.
*Thermochill* - makers of some of the best radiators you can buy. well worth the money.
*HWlabs* - makers of the Black Ice series of radiators. very competitive with the thermochill's while using less space.
*Zalman *- have limited water cooling components. are known for their "reserator 1, 2, and XT designs. also make a wide selection of GPU blocks.

Distributors_____ 

*Petra's Tech Shop* - probably one of the best places to order from. most People receive their stuff within 3 days of ordering. they are like the newegg of watercooling sites. they sell a wide variety of modding and cooling supplies as well.
*Perfomance PC's* - also a very good site. sometimes a bit slow processing orders but they have a HUGE selection of Modding and cooling accessories as well as replacement case parts. also sells pre-modded cases and PSU's.
*Sidewinder* - often have lower prices and decent shipping. not a VAST selection but they carry most popular items.
*FrozenCPU* - another site with a HUGE selection of just about everything cooling/modding related. good customer service.
*CrazyPC* - not the best selection but they have some rather unique and obscure items. they also sell pre-modded cases.
*Xoxide* - very good site that sells a little of everything. shipping is a bit slower that other sites but they may have what your looking for when others are out of stock.
*Sharka* - carries Silverstone, Zalman, Danger Den EK and Aqua Computer exclusively. has many replacement parts in case you loose that important part you need.
*Mountain Mods* - makers of VERY unique cases designed to accommodate extravagant watercooling systems. also carry a wide variety of popular watercooling parts and accessories.
*Jab-tech* - carries a limited supply of watercooling supplies but are often better prices than others.

FAQ____

Q. How big of a risk is it that water may kill my PC? 
A. if you take your time and double check everything as well as properly leak test your system before installing you components, you run very little risk of damage.

Q. Will my power supply be able to handle the extra power from the water cooling system?
A. most pumps use a surprisingly small amount of power. as long as you have a decent power supply for your system you wont have any problems powering your water setup.

Q. I found a pre designed kit by _____ that is a good price. would it work for my system?
A. It should work fine if you are just trying to setup a basic loop. some kits come with GPU and chipset block as well as reservoirs along with the CPU block and pump. if you plan to add more to you loop, a kit may not be your best choice. it is ofter cheaper and better to select your own components and build your own system to ensure you accomplish your goal.

Q. What case is the best for water cooling setups?
A. this is pure preference. i have seen water setups in just about every case. some cases are known to be great for water setups. some of which are, Silerstone TJ07, Thermaltake Armour, Most Lian Li's, Moutain Mods UFO cases, Danger Den WaterBox,  Gigabyte Aurora.

Q. I don't want to "mod" my case. is there anything i can do to have a water setup without cutting my case up?
A. yes! there are several things that were designed just for you! Koolance makes external water systems, Swiftech makes the "Radbox" that allows you to mount the radiator outside on the back of your case.

Q. Sometimes i move my computer or take it to a friends house/LAN party. is it ok to move it with the water in the system?
A. As long as your loop is sealed and no water will splash out of your loop. a good rule of thumb is to just be careful, especially if your radiator or anything is outside the case.

Q. Do i need a reservoir in my loop? 
A. NO. while it is recommended, a reservoir is not always needed and there may not be room for one in your case. you may use a "T-line" to fill/drain your loop.

Q. how often do i need to clean my loop/flush it out? 
A. if you use the proper Biocide, i feel that you can easily just keep your loop toped off for about a year before changing the water. (correct me if im wrong)

Q. What type of coolant should i use?
A. distilled water is the best coolant to use. it is reccomended to use a small amount of biocide to prevent algae from growing in your loop. there are coolants out there that are good as well but they do not perform as well as distilled water. dye can be used to change water color.

Q. should i perform a leak test and how long before i can declare my system ready to use?
A. it is typically recommended to leak test your system for 18 to 24 hours before ANY components are installed into the system. this will ensure yo don't have any leaks and will prevent from damaging your $$$ computer parts.

ITEMS TO STAY AWAY FROM_____

1. anything Thermaltake. it is known that thermatakes designs are cheap and often lead to headaches down the road. it's best to steer clear from thermaltake water cooling stuff.
2. gigabyte has made an ATTEMPT to capture the audience of water coolers. it has pretty much been a complete failure. their motherboards are GREAT though!
3. coolermaster has also made an attempt to produce water cooling kits. none have shown to be very beneficial. 

OTHER LINKS THAT MAY HELP_____

*Tubing guide* by VirtualRain@XS - very informative of different tubing brands and sizes.

*In Depth Pump Guide* by MaxxRacer@XS - goes in depth on most of the pumps you may consider using. lists the pro's and con's on each.

*120mm Fan Guide* by Vapor@XS - need help deciding what fans to use? this will help!

*Martins System Flowrate Estimator Spreadsheet* by Martinm210@XS/OCN/ http://www.martinsliquidlab.com/ - this guy has dedicated A TON of time to measuring and documenting the pressure drop, flow rate and all aspects of hydrodynamics of computer watercooling supplies. he has developed an Excel spreadsheet to help you determin your systems flow rate and pressure drop BEFORE you buy/build you loop(s). DIRECT DOWNLOAD LINK

Will add more soon.... please PM me with your contributions.

PLEASE DO NOT PUT ANYTHING IN THIS TREAD THAT IS NOT WATER RELATED. THANK YOU!!!

ALSO... please post your water setup pics here to show examples of good setups.


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## philbrown23 (Feb 20, 2008)

make sure you put on there that it is EXTREMELY important to do a 24 hout leak test because some wc systems will fail the test in the final hours/moments, it has happened to me once before with my last wc setup.


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## Nick89 (Feb 20, 2008)

ATTENTION!

The water pump you get in the Gigabyte Gallaxy II WCing kit isnt of the best quality and could die on you anywhere from 3 months to 8 months from when you get it.

Also the CPU water block that comes with the kit restricts water flow alot.


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## Yin (Feb 20, 2008)

I don't see whats so bad about thermaltake water cooling system. I personally own a big water 745 and it is the first water cooling kit for me. Okay i know the temperatures aren't as nearly as good as swift-tech and dragon den products but the cost was a whole lot cheaper at the time.  The parts aren't as nearly as good for example I think my waterblock is useless atm but I still think that my thermaltake watercooling kit is prefect for a beginner.


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## Fitseries3 (Feb 20, 2008)

Please add your pics guys!!!


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## Bugalaman (Feb 20, 2008)

I haven't changed the water in my computer in 2.5 years (though I have topped it off once because the fittings into the radiator were leaking.  I use distilled water with water wetter, and it still looks as clear as the day I filled her up.  Never used a biocide, never needed it myself.  It probably depends where you live.  Heck, my computer even traveled from California here to Washington without a problem.  Even when I did have a minor leak after I replaced the nozzle on the cpu (DD TDX) nothing was hurt because it was distilled water.  WC'ing is as safe as air, maybe even safer now a days with theses 10lb heatsinks that will rip a hole through your mobo if you knock it around


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## intel igent (Feb 20, 2008)

heres mine

http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=52425



im loving the haters 

any1 needs help or has questions feel free to ask


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## Nitro-Max (Feb 20, 2008)

Great thread fitseries3 this will help me loads when i buy mine.

i wonder if you could put your reservoir in a mini fridge to chill it a little??


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## Nitro-Max (Feb 20, 2008)

Out of what ive seen so far the simplest kit to instal for beginers is the ""Thermaltake Big Water 760i Bay Mounted Watercooling Kit (Socket 939/AM2/LGA775)""
as long as you have the drive bay space it comes already assembled just need to hook up the water block.


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## intel igent (Feb 20, 2008)

Nitro-Max said:


> i wonder if you could put your reservoir in a mini fridge to chill it a little??



wont work. your W/C loop puts out more heat than that fridge is designed to dissipate.

building a separate chiller though is different 

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=155


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## [MD]Phantom (Mar 8, 2008)

This is a very big help too any one who's starting with watercooling.

I had an zalman reserator 1 plus, but i am seeking a better solution for my next pc.

I have already made up my mind thanks too youre topic about the pump and cpu block.

Pump: Laing D5
Cpu block: EK Supreme

Now i was wondering if you take 2 Thermochill PA 120.2 and put them in to the loop. In this configuration, from pump to pc hardware too radiator 1 too radiator 2 and back too pump.
In between there the reservoir will be also.

And cool the two radiators down with a 25cm fan would it be enough to cool down the cpu,gpu,and mainboard with integrated watercooling.


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## Wile E (Mar 8, 2008)

Yin said:


> I don't see whats so bad about thermaltake water cooling system.


Because top end air matches or beats it, but is still cheaper. Sorry to say.


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## SirKeldon (Mar 8, 2008)

Hi all, i moved to water just few days ago, here's my setup:

- Radiator HWLabs Black Ice GT Stealth 120 (placed outta the case with a push-pull fan config)
- Enzotech SCW-1 CPU Waterblock (performs as well as D-Tek Fuzion, DD or Swiftech ones)
- Thermaltake Aquabay M3
- Hydor L20 (bringing 700 liters per hour)
- 1/2 inch tube (i think it's 1/2)
- Feser One Cooling Fluid

What about the Thermaltake reservoirs? Are that bad? I purchased the TT for placing my water reserve in a 5,25" bay cause it was the only one they had at the moment, what solutions for a 5,25" bay are better?

Also as you can see i gone very cheap on the pump, is an aquarium one ... but brings the same 1800 lph that could bring the same flow as any medium-quality pump, there was no more money at the moment ... i'm affraid and not for leaks, cause in 5 days i didn't detect anyone ... the real reason is about how much time will it live on a 24/7 system and what are the better pumps for that level of flow or maybe more, where should i go? Swiftech or DD?

Now i'm happy with the rig but within the months i'll save some money to upgrade those two parts, specially the pump cause i think watercooling will perform alot better with more flow ... now the doubt, how the hell unmounting well the circuit without getting wet?

Thank you in advance


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## Fitseries3 (Mar 8, 2008)

@ SirKeldon  your pump should be fine. it moves a good bit of water. it may be something you should keep going for a while if you like it so far. no need to change it if it's working good. im liking the Enzotech block! thermaltake reservoirs are fine. it's the CPU/GPU blocks that dont perform well enough to justify using them. some high end air coolers can perform on the same level if not a tad better.

@ [MD]Phantom  2 TC PA120.2's would be great.... but i'd split it into 2 loops. especailly if you have multiple GPU's or one that gives of a TON of heat(IE:8800gtx). fill out your system specs so i can help you better.

im gonna do some updates to this thread this weekend. if anyone has any suggestions, let me know.


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## [MD]Phantom (Mar 8, 2008)

I was thinking of making two seperate loops too.

System specs i do not have yet, i am waiting for the new 45nm intel processors that are coming and the new nvidia 9... series cards as wel a little more X48 chipset mainboards.

But i already know that i want too use a cpu block a gpu block and i want a mainboard with al watercooling on it, like the EXTREME MAXIMUS from Asus.

But still are there any radiators out there that are a bit cheaper and still performs well, Like the Nexxox xtreme rev 2 or two airplexe pro 240 or XT or EVO, or some black ICE type of radiator.

Have too read some test and reviews too find the best value for money radiator.

And have too find two pumps that will be sufficient for the job without costing a arm and a leg.

My total budget will be around 1500-2000 euro, and i want too keep within that.

Until now i have spend,
166,45 Euro for the Thermaltake Mozart TX case
44.91 Euro for three 250 mm fans

and as it looks now,
around 160 Euro for two PA120.s's
around 50 Euro for a EK supreme

making it around 421.36 Euro in total this far, and i have too find and buy most hardware.


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## SirKeldon (Mar 9, 2008)

fitseries3, i was wrong, it was not moving that huge quantity of liquid, it's the L20 Pro, just moves 700 lph, it's more than the DD-CPX but are not the 1200lph the Swiftech MCP655 or the 1500lph of the Laing D5, though it all, still cools appropiated and just cost 18 EUR, i won't change any part at the moment, it's just one week old but for the future i'm considering to upgrade to a better pump and maybe a better rad too, thinking Thermochill PA120.2 or a good HWLabs Black Ice GT Xtreme or Black Ice Alpha Pro 2x120.

I'll call you then


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## Fitseries3 (Mar 9, 2008)

the swiftech mcp-655 is a relabeled laing D5. they are one and the same. you may be thinking of the swiftech mcp655b that doesnt have the vario pot. i reccomend either one because they are pretty quiet and move a ton of water and have decent pressure. the cost is the only downside but you get what you pay for. i've got 2 in my system. the mcp-355 is a good pump too... it just has less flow but is easier to tuck away inside you computer because of how small it is. you can also get different tops for it that provide several functions that are helpful. the mcp-355 is also know as the DDC 3.2.

as for the rad....i personally love thermochill. i have one of each of their rads and they all are wonderful. the HWlabs rads are my second choice though.


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## Fitseries3 (Mar 9, 2008)

[MD]Phantom said:


> I was thinking of making two seperate loops too.
> 
> System specs i do not have yet, i am waiting for the new 45nm intel processors that are coming and the new nvidia 9... series cards as wel a little more X48 chipset mainboards.
> 
> ...



EK makes great blocks for everything on the maximus. i plan on getting them for my computer some day soon. the price will kill you budget though. it's almost $200USD for the NB, SB, and 2 VRM blocks. 

keep in mind that the EK surpreme is an impingement style block and will perform better with a high flow pump like the laing d5 and it's best to put the block as the first thing after the pump.


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## [MD]Phantom (Mar 9, 2008)

As i have read the EK supreme will not work very good if put in too a loop with another block.

If you would use a Laing D5 wouldn't that pump be strong enough for a cpu block like the EK supreme and a GPU block?.


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## Fitseries3 (Mar 9, 2008)

with the laing d5, flow isn't the problem. the heat is the problem. the CPU and GPU are at different heat thresholds therefore ideally they should be on separate loops.


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## [MD]Phantom (Mar 9, 2008)

Okay, but making two loop with two D5's are a little too expensive for my taste i am afraid.

Correct me if i'm wrong, if the loop was like this pump to CPU to GPU to radiator, the water would be already so heated up by the CPU that the GPU wouldnt get cooled down enough. Right?.

Wouldn't it be possible then too devide the loop with T- cuplings into two seperate loops each passing one component each then coming together again into the radiator?.


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## Wile E (Mar 9, 2008)

[MD]Phantom said:


> Okay, but making two loop with two D5's are a little too expensive for my taste i am afraid.
> 
> Correct me if i'm wrong, if the loop was like this pump to CPU to GPU to radiator, the water would be already so heated up by the CPU that the GPU wouldnt get cooled down enough. Right?.
> 
> Wouldn't it be possible then too devide the loop with T- cuplings into two seperate loops each passing one component each then coming together again into the radiator?.



Going from cpu to gpu, the gpu will still be cooled by a ton. Still better than air in most cases. There's nothing wrong with doing a single loop, it's just that 2 loops are better.

You can do the split loop thing as well, but you have to be extra careful. It introduces the possibility for more leaks, causes more restriction, and uneven flow, but still works quite well in practice.


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## Fitseries3 (Mar 9, 2008)

im not saying a single loop wont work. just that a dual loop would cool a lot better. i know it costs a lot of money but in most cases it's worth it. 

split loops are good but you should use a more powerful pump. CyberDruid knows split loops extremely well. he has some MAD watercooling skills.


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## Bytor (Mar 9, 2008)

Need to add Koolance to the stay away from list... they use aluminum in there Rads. and other parts.  Bad corrosion problem waiting to happen.

*Stay away from any pumps and water blocks that have Plexiglass *used in there construction.  Take it from me I have just had 2 OCLabs pump tops crack and leak all over my desk. Good thing I look it over before I power it up.


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## Wile E (Mar 9, 2008)

Bytor said:


> Need to add Koolance to the stay away from list... they use aluminum in there Rads. and other parts.  Bad corrosion problem waiting to happen.
> 
> *Stay away from any pumps and water blocks that have Plexiglass *used in there construction.  Take it from me I have just had 2 OCLabs pump tops crack and leak all over my desk. Good thing I look it over before I power it up.



Plexi isn't bad. You just have to be careful. They were probably overtightened. I put a hairline crack in my Bitspower top. Thankfully I heard it start to go and stopped tightening it immediately. The crack didn't make it thru to anywhere that carries coolant.

Short version, acrylic and plexi is ok, if you are very careful tightening.


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## Bytor (Mar 9, 2008)

Well the first top that cracked on me that I found on friday may have been from over tightening, but today I looked under my system and found a puddle of coolent coming from the second pump. After removing the pump and top I found a small crack away from any screw hole in a solid part of the top.  These new OCLabs tops are not mach. but molded and are very thin walled.  The XSPC tops and the like are mach. from thick stock.

You can say what ya like about plexi, but I will never use it in any of my blocks or pumps again.


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## Jarman (Mar 20, 2008)

old thread revival 

here's mine:







Mobo/Ram has changed since the pic was taken though


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## SirKeldon (Mar 21, 2008)

Can't see your pics JarMan


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## Fitseries3 (Mar 21, 2008)

Jarman said:


> old thread revival
> 
> here's mine:
> 
> ...


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## Jarman (Mar 21, 2008)

ah sorry, there they are above  guess rapidshare wont let the images be linked directly  fairly neat wouldnt you say?? for the amount of hardware in there  1x pa120.2, 1x360 gts stealth, 2x laing DDC pumps, 1/2" pipe.


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## intel igent (Mar 21, 2008)

Jarman said:


> ah sorry, there they are above  guess rapidshare wont let the images be linked directly  fairly neat wouldnt you say?? for the amount of hardware in there  1x pa120.2, 1x360 gts stealth, 2x laing DDC pumps, 1/2" pipe.



lookin good!

got any more pix?


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## Fitseries3 (Mar 21, 2008)

i does look a little "tangled" if you ask me. try to make the res visible.


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## intel igent (Mar 21, 2008)

fitseries3 said:


> i does look a little "tangled" if you ask me. try to make the res visible.



hes got quite a bit of stuff stuffed in there, its not bad but shurely with more time spent on it could prolly look better


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## Fitseries3 (Mar 21, 2008)

PEOPLE... please post more pics of your systems.


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## Fitseries3 (Mar 21, 2008)




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## intel igent (Mar 21, 2008)

as you requested

still not back together yet should be back up next week if i get my order on time

you get the idea

<check out my post count! "1337" 

you can view more pix and even vote if ya like @ http://www.techpowerup.com/gallery/1341.html


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## jim2k (Mar 23, 2008)

hi can any one advise me on a good external water cooling kit?

thanks


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## Jarman (Mar 23, 2008)

people will probably slate me to the hills for saying this, but the koolance EXOS (and i actually have one and use it) is really good.  I put a LAING DDC 10w in series with it and it cooled a quad core 3.8GHz and an 8800gtx.  It was pushing it a little...but the damn thing managed it!  ill post some more pics of my pc too.


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## Fitseries3 (Mar 23, 2008)

koolance exos or corsair nautica are viable units. i wouldn't put anything other than a CPU on the loop though.


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## Jarman (Mar 23, 2008)

the original koolance exos honestly handled the OC'd quad and the 8800gtx in the same loop.  (had an extra pump in-line though)


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## intel igent (Mar 23, 2008)

Jarman said:


> the original koolance exos honestly handled the OC'd quad and the 8800gtx in the same loop.  (had an extra pump in-line though)



pumps dont mean squat, its the rad/s that dissipates the heat

as long as you get/got between 1-1.5GPM flow youre good 

why must it be external?


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## Wile E (Mar 24, 2008)

Here's a suggestion, just put together a custom kit, and shroud and mount the rad on a radbox.


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## Fitseries3 (Mar 24, 2008)

Wile E said:


> Here's a suggestion, just put together a custom kit, and shroud and mount the rad on a radbox.



perfect! that's what i was thinking.


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## intel igent (Mar 24, 2008)

fits you got any extra tubing and coolant?


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## Fitseries3 (Mar 24, 2008)

intel igent said:


> fits you got any extra tubing and coolant?



i use distilled water. tygon/clearflex is expensive. PTS is best to get it at.


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## intel igent (Mar 24, 2008)

fitseries3 said:


> i use distilled water. tygon/clearflex is expensive. PTS is best to get it at.




i ask cuz im trying to figure somethng out for you

+1 on PTS! alex and quoc are TOP NOTCH!


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## Fitseries3 (Mar 24, 2008)

what's your idea? im open to listen.


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## jim2k (Mar 24, 2008)

what about a corsair Nautilus500


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## jim2k (Mar 24, 2008)

jim2k said:


> what about a corsair Nautilus500



or this kit http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=40&products_id=266


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## Wile E (Mar 24, 2008)

Neither will do nearly as well as custom.


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## Grings (Mar 24, 2008)

Heres mine, i've got a lot of changes planned however, such as a gpu block when i get a new card (hence the long pump-cpu tube, as the wolfdales run so cool i will run it to gpu first), i also want some 38mm fans (set to suck on the other side of the rad), and _maybe_ a D-Tek fuzion, though again, as the wolfies run cool i dont really think its worth it











Feel free to cuss and flame away!


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## DanishDevil (Mar 24, 2008)

IMO, you should run your loop to your CPU and *then* your GPU.  Think about it.

After your GPU, water rises to say 40C, then cools CPU.

OR

After CPU, water rises to 25C, then cools GPU.

You don't want hotter water cooling your CPU.  You want to go with the coolest components first, so the hotter one's heat isn't transferred to the other components in your system.

I'm sick of blue fans and green coolant...


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## Grings (Mar 24, 2008)

lol, i agree about the coolant, but i forgot to get any water additive, and that green stuff came with the kit (i didnt want to wait to fit it)

as for the gpu first, i really cant see it heating to 40c (provided i use a low resistance block its gonna be in and out too quick to heat up much)


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## intel igent (Mar 24, 2008)

DanishDevil said:


> IMO, you should run your loop to your CPU and *then* your GPU.  Think about it.
> 
> After your GPU, water rises to say 40C, then cools CPU.
> 
> ...



:shadedshu

all things are EQUAL in a closed loop 

what CPU block is that grings? a supreme?


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## Jarman (Mar 24, 2008)

pumps do make a difference. Higher water velocity through the block reduces boundry layers and gives better cooling.


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## Grings (Mar 24, 2008)

Apogee GT


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## intel igent (Mar 24, 2008)

Jarman said:


> pumps do make a difference. Higher water velocity through the block reduces boundry layers and gives better cooling.



only up untill ~1.0-1.5GPM then the differences become negligible and one must take into account heat dump from the pump. 

you wouldnt run an MD30 with a 240rad and supreme block would ya?

the greatest contributor to temp reduction IS the choice of RAD.


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## Jarman (Mar 24, 2008)

heat dump from a pump is buttons tbh....DDC pumps dont put hardly anything into the water and D5's only put in about 10 watts.  Takes 4200J to increase a kilo of water by 1 degree,  a pump is nothing.  Plus having 2 pumps in a loop gives you some peace of mind (especially with orange impellor DDCs). Equally, if not more important than the choice of rad is the choice of fan for the rad and a shroud.


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## JC316 (Mar 24, 2008)

I can vouch for the H20-220 Compact. It's a great kit for the novice user. Easy to install and it has excellent performance. Running my quad a 1.525 3.7GHZ and loading at 50*C.


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## intel igent (Mar 25, 2008)

Jarman said:


> heat dump from a pump is buttons tbh....DDC pumps dont put hardly anything into the water and D5's only put in about 10 watts.  Takes 4200J to increase a kilo of water by 1 degree,  a pump is nothing.  Plus having 2 pumps in a loop gives you some peace of mind (especially with orange impellor DDCs). Equally, if not more important than the choice of rad is the choice of fan for the rad and a shroud.



oranange impeller DDc's were 9watts, blue top DDc's are 13watts, D4/D5 is 18watts. IIRC

there are many factors to take into account when watercooling.

you raise some valid points (but some of which are moot) at the same time one must take into consideration balance. its all about balance. 

how much pump is enough?
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=10825 <courtesy of Cathar @ procooling


help choosing pumps:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=41495 <courtesy maxxxracer @Xtremesystems


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## Wile E (Mar 25, 2008)

intel igent said:


> :shadedshu
> 
> all things are EQUAL in a closed loop


That's not true. Different sections of the loop will carry different temps, because the coolant is flowing only in one direction. It's simple physics. There is nothing between the blocks to cool the water. Therefore, the water in that line is warmer than the water that just came from the rad. There is no full temperature equilibrium in the loop. I tested this personally with my old AMD setup. I cooled both the NB and CPU in my loop. My cpu saw cooler temps by going pump>cpu>NB>rad>res, as opposed to pump>NB>cpu>rad>res. It was about a 2C difference under load, in the same ambient conditions. Mind you, that's with a small NB, imagine the possible difference with a gpu in the loop instead.


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## intel igent (Mar 25, 2008)

Wile E said:


> That's not true. Different sections of the loop will carry different temps, because the coolant is flowing only in one direction. It's simple physics. There is nothing between the blocks to cool the water. Therefore, the water in that line is warmer than the water that just came from the rad. There is no full temperature equilibrium in the loop. I tested this personally with my old AMD setup. I cooled both the NB and CPU in my loop. My cpu saw cooler temps by going pump>cpu>NB>rad>res, as opposed to pump>NB>cpu>rad>res. It was about a 2C difference under load, in the same ambient conditions. Mind you, that's with a small NB, imagine the possible difference with a gpu in the loop instead.



im talking water temps, the differences will be negligible. you know that.

just because the W/C community is in its infancy here does not mean we have to discuss matters which have already been addressed by the PROS.

dont scare people


----------



## Wile E (Mar 25, 2008)

intel igent said:


> im talking water temps, the differences will be negligible. you know that.
> 
> just because the W/C community is in its infancy here does not mean we have to discuss matters which have already been addressed by the PROS.
> 
> dont scare people



I'm not trying to scare people. Just pointing out some facts. It's not like I said their cpu will overheat or anything. lol. I'm just trying to point out that the first block in the loop will be the coolest. It's up to the end user to decide which component gets that honor.

Personally, I'm just going with 2 loops, as soon as I get un-lazy. lol.


----------



## intel igent (Mar 25, 2008)

Wile E said:


> I'm not trying to scare people. Just pointing out some facts. It's not like I said their cpu will overheat or anything. lol. I'm just trying to point out that the first block in the loop will be the coolest. It's up to the end user to decide which component gets that honor.
> 
> Personally, I'm just going with 2 loops, as soon as I get un-lazy. lol.



the coolest by what? 0.5c!  IF that

c'mon man


----------



## Wile E (Mar 25, 2008)

intel igent said:


> the coolest by what? 0.5c!  IF that
> 
> c'mon man


It made a 2C difference on my 6000+ with both it and my NB (nForce4) in the loop.


----------



## intel igent (Mar 25, 2008)

Wile E said:


> It made a 2C difference on my 6000+ with both it and my NB (nForce4) in the loop.



first off im talking WATER temps, second neither me or you have the equipment to do PROPER thermal testing so like i already stated this discussion is moot

why dont you visit procooloing and share your thoughts with them and see what they say to you


----------



## DanishDevil (Mar 25, 2008)

What is the purpose of water in a watercooling loop?  Please, correct me if I'm wrong.

It's to transfer heat from the blocks through the loop to the radiator for the heat to be dissipated, then back through the loop.

How then would the temperature of the water not change after either being forced through a copper heatsink at 40C or an actively-cooler radiator?

Your temperatures are going to go up after a block, and down after a radiator.  It's really a very simple concept.  If one block is signigicantly hotter than another, I would suggest cooling the coolest first, unless you are focusing on a particular component that you really want to get the most clocks or life out of.


----------



## Wile E (Mar 25, 2008)

intel igent said:


> first off im talking WATER temps, second neither me or you have the equipment to do PROPER thermal testing so like i already stated this discussion is moot
> 
> why dont you visit procooloing and share your thoughts with them and see what they say to you


I used Core Temp to track my differences. I suppose it could be off. But if there is a difference in component temp with a change of loop order, it only stands to reason that the water temp is different. Beside, even tho we are waxing intellectual about water temps, it's not what's actually important, the component temps are the most important factor. And the fact of the matter in my loop was, the cpu was cooler when it was the first block in the loop.

I don't see how procooling factors into this? Those were the results I achieved.


----------



## intel igent (Mar 25, 2008)

goodnight guys 

im go sleep you guys do some reading


----------



## Wile E (Mar 25, 2008)

intel igent said:


> goodnight guys
> 
> im go sleep you guys do some reading


My point is, I don't have to read the opinions of experts. I saw the results with my own 2 eyes.


----------



## tkpenalty (Mar 25, 2008)

Hey guys, do you recommend against the Swiftech H20-220 Compact? Please remember that I have a rather small enclosure that isnt very full-sized-kit-friendly. If I purchase it I also plan to add a GPU block to the water loop.


----------



## Wile E (Mar 25, 2008)

tkpenalty said:


> Hey guys, do you recommend against the Swiftech H20-220 Compact? Please remember that I have a rather small enclosure that isnt very full-sized-kit-friendly. If I purchase it I also plan to add a GPU block to the water loop.



I don't necessarily recommend against it, but if you plan to add a gpu block, you may want to look into a full custom kit anyway.


----------



## DanishDevil (Mar 25, 2008)

The integrated pump couples with a GPU block might bring your GPH down a bit.  Try this excel document out and put in what you have to see what your GPH would be:

http://www.martinsliquidlab.com/MartinsFlowRateEstimator.html


----------



## Jarman (Mar 25, 2008)

AFAIK the DDC's (which i have) dump most of their heat into the air (hence the reason mine are cooled by a 120mm fan) the D5 dumps heat into the loop.  So if for some reason u were worried about heat dump of pumps into the loop, use a DDC and air cool them


----------



## VulkanBros (Mar 25, 2008)

fitseries3

you don´t have any Asetek
stuff on your list.....why ?? 
The VapoChill and Waterchill are excellent products and the OEM LCLC series 
are used in the HP Blackbird rigs.....


----------



## intel igent (Mar 25, 2008)

H2O220 uses mcp355 so adding an extra block to that system is fine


----------



## tkpenalty (Mar 25, 2008)

Damn you guys.... your water cooling rigs makes my PC cry.


----------



## Jarman (Mar 25, 2008)

They are seen as the lower end if the spectrum i think vulkan.  Using tight bore 10/8 tubing, low flow pumps and icky push connectors on dated blocks.  Or at least thats how they used to be .  To be honest they probably arent that bad


----------



## DanishDevil (Mar 25, 2008)

intel igent said:


> H2O220 uses mcp355 so adding an extra block to that system is fine



H20220 *Compact*.  It's the one with the combo CPU block/pump.  Although it might be a modified mcp355, but just in case you didn't see the compact


----------



## intel igent (Mar 25, 2008)

DanishDevil said:


> H20220 *Compact*.  It's the one with the combo CPU block/pump.  Although it might be a modified mcp355, but just in case you didn't see the compact



i do know, there is nothing wrong with it. its a good little pump and a low restriction block, so whats the harm? i wouldnt add a fuzion GFX to it though

personally i think that is a GREAT STARTER kit or someone looking for a fast, easy, effective, compact solution

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=147767 <effects of tube sizes on temps courtesy of Cathar @XtremeSystems


----------



## mrw1986 (Mar 25, 2008)

So I want to start dabbling more into WC. I'm using an H20-120 Compact right now. I bought that RocketFish case and I want to mount a 240mm Rad up top. What pump, cpu block (for q6600), radiator, and reservoir would you guys recommend? Also, should I use 1/2" ID tubing?

EDIT: Just read that article intel igent posted looks like I can go with smaller tubing using quick-fit fittings. Awesome!


----------



## DanishDevil (Mar 25, 2008)

Pump: MCP655
Block: DTek Fuzion with nozzle kit (use the quad-core nozzle I assume)
Radiator: Swiftech QP (or if you have the $, Thermochill PA 120.2)
Reservoir: Really up to you.  Some bay res's are tough to use without bubbles.  I'm gonna go with the Swiftech Micro Res.
Tubing: Tygon 7/16 ID (little smaller than the 1/2" barbs, so it'll be a snug fit)


----------



## savillm (Mar 25, 2008)

lo all im looking at getting a Swiftech H20-220 Compact kit as a first starters kit for water cooling is it any good?

i would also use this fluid: http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=34_96&products_id=437

and this paste: http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=63&products_id=676

is there a better fluid or paste out atm?

thx for your help


----------



## DanishDevil (Mar 25, 2008)

The H20-220 Compact is a *great* starter kit.  I will also be using that fluid, and I have had *great* experiences with that thermal paste.  It looks like you've got the right stuff in mind.


----------



## Fitseries3 (Mar 25, 2008)

the only downside to that Swiftech kit is the pump needs to have good airflow around it. the 2 i have had gotten pretty hot because you have both the CPU and the pump heating the water like a sandwich. the kit is great though... for a starter kit. 

Feser One is great fluid. i've found with experience that distilled water and a dye work best though. 

the AC MX-2 is great stuff. i have always used AS Ceramique for water though. it transfers heat well at low to moderate temperatures.


----------



## DanishDevil (Mar 25, 2008)

Have you compared TX-2 and AS C on water directly?


----------



## Fitseries3 (Mar 25, 2008)

yeah.... with my q6600 @ 3.8ghz on my maximus, the AS ceramique is about 1c lower under load. MX-2 is almost identical. 

i will say.... part of the reason i still use the AS C is because i got a HUGE tube of it like a year ago and i've been putting it on everything trying to get rid of it. LOL!


----------



## mrw1986 (Mar 25, 2008)

Well, here's the rundown for my setup. Let me know how it looks!

Pump: Laing D5 Vario/Swiftech MCP655 Inline 12V DC Pump
Pump Gel: Petra'sTech "Gel-Stuff" Vibration Absorption Block
Tubing: Tygon R3603 7/16in. ID 11/16in. OD Laboratory Tubing 
Fittings: D-Tek High-Flow Fitting (G 1/4" Thread, 1/2" OD)
Reservoir: Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Hi-Flo Reservoir
Radiator: Swiftech MCR-220 "Quiet Power" Series Radiator
Screws: 1-1/4" Stainless Steel Swiftech MCR-QP Fan Screws
Fans: 120mm Yate Loon D12SL-12 Case Fan
CPU Block: D-TEK FuZion Universal CPU Waterblock - 1/2"


----------



## DanishDevil (Mar 25, 2008)

Looks good, except you need the A.C. Ryan fans 

I like the pump gel idea - never seen that before.


----------



## savillm (Mar 25, 2008)

fitseries3 said:


> the only downside to that Swiftech kit is the pump needs to have good airflow around it. the 2 i have had gotten pretty hot because you have both the CPU and the pump heating the water like a sandwich. the kit is great though... for a starter kit.
> 
> Feser One is great fluid. i've found with experience that distilled water and a dye work best though.
> 
> the AC MX-2 is great stuff. i have always used AS Ceramique for water though. it transfers heat well at low to moderate temperatures.



i got a coolermaster stacker 831 with the side pannel with 4 x 120mm fans on it, will that keep the cpu block cool?

i got a artic freezer 7 pro and my cpu idle is 30*c with that paste fluid and kit with the fans at max speed what do u think my temps will drop too?


----------



## DanishDevil (Mar 25, 2008)

With the QP radiator?  Well, the beauty of water is that the load temps are not far from the idle temps, so if I had to take a wild guess I'd say 27 idle and 36 load depending on how OC'ed it is.  I don't even watercool yet, though HAHA.


----------



## Fitseries3 (Mar 25, 2008)

yeah. you will do great with the H20-220 compact kit.


----------



## Fitseries3 (Mar 25, 2008)

no, about 32-35c idle is about right with the H20-220 compact and a e6600 @ 3.4ghz.

a better kit will do 2Xc idle and 3Xc load. 

im used to quads though so im not 100% sure on the temps. quads are a lot hotter.


----------



## savillm (Mar 25, 2008)

well its 30*c with no oc atm and 34*c in game after about an hour im going to oc it when i water cool 

so my temps will be lower as im not ocing atm is that right?


----------



## DanishDevil (Mar 25, 2008)

They should be.  And even if they aren't, it will help you OC because the heat is wicked away from the CPU so much faster than with air.


----------



## Fitseries3 (Mar 25, 2008)

yes, you'll be in the 2Xc range without a doubt.


----------



## Fitseries3 (Mar 25, 2008)

found this on the front page.... yeah, i know... i tried REAL hard. LOL. 

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/swiftech-h20-220compact.html


----------



## Wile E (Mar 25, 2008)

DanishDevil said:


> Looks good, except you need the A.C. Ryan fans
> 
> I like the pump gel idea - never seen that before.



Actually, those YL's from Petras are rated among the highest for use on rads. They perform very, very well in high pressure environments.


----------



## intel igent (Mar 26, 2008)

Wile E said:


> Actually, those YL's from Petras are rated among the highest for use on rads. They perform very, very well in high pressure environments.



dont know about that bro, they are great fans for the money and are favoured in the community for their price/performace/noise. 

they do perform well on slim rads or rads with low fpi (fins per inch) but they are a slim fan (25mm) and as such do not have very high static pressure and will lose out to thicker fans (38mm) when used on a thick rad or a rad with high fpi

dont mean to be rude but please do a little more research before posting this kind of info


----------



## DanishDevil (Mar 26, 2008)

Wile E said:


> Actually, those YL's from Petras are rated among the highest for use on rads. They perform very, very well in high pressure environments.



That was a reference to a group purchase we're doing.  I'm sure they don't perform better than some other fans on radiators.  I wasn't making that point.


----------



## Wile E (Mar 26, 2008)

intel igent said:


> dont know about that bro, they are great fans for the money and are favoured in the community for their price/performace/noise.
> 
> they do perform well on slim rads or rads with low fpi (fins per inch) but they are a slim fan (25mm) and as such do not have very high static pressure and will lose out to thicker fans (38mm) when used on a thick rad or a rad with high fpi
> 
> dont mean to be rude but please do a little more research before posting this kind of info



I did. Somebody in the Watercoolig Club (iirc, can't exactly remember where the link is) posted a link with extensive reviews on the fans. Those YL's ranked among the highest in medium speed fans in high pressure situations.


----------



## Wile E (Mar 26, 2008)

As a matter in fact, it was you that posted it. lol. And it wasn't just high-pressure performance, it was all-around performance period.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=171661


----------



## intel igent (Mar 26, 2008)

i know what i posted

dont misconstrue what i say

i think you shoud read a little more instead of just posting  an mcr120 is not a very restrictive RAD

funny how it seems youre trying to bait me into an argument lately :shadedshu

dont let the flashy avatar fool ya


----------



## DanishDevil (Mar 26, 2008)

intel igent, it's also funny how you've acted like you know everything.  Being helpful and knowledgeable is one thing, but be sure to let other people have their opinions.  IMO, you two should just drop it.


----------



## Fitseries3 (Mar 26, 2008)

i use the silverstone 110cfm fans on my rads. they are loud at full speed but they have a speed contoller for each fan. they move a ton of air too. too bad their $20 each. and i have 13 of them. LOL!


----------



## intel igent (Mar 26, 2008)

DanishDevil said:


> intel igent, it's also funny how you've acted like you know everything.  Being helpful and knowledgeable is one thing, but be sure to let other people have their opinions.



i dont know everything, nor have i claimed to. 

he can have his opinion im not denying him of that.

im simply stating the KNOWN facts and not posting speculation and opinion so that WE can all learn


----------



## Fitseries3 (Mar 26, 2008)

calm down guys.

i don't know from experience but everyone seems to think the yate loons are great for any rad.

also.... post you water cooled machine pics guys.


----------



## Wile E (Mar 26, 2008)

intel igent said:


> i know what i posted
> 
> dont misconstrue what i say
> 
> ...


I'm not trying to bait, you've just been really insistent on what you are saying, almost like you are attacking my posts, both about the temps with loop order, which I have tested personally, and about these fans. I re-reviewed the link you gave, and my conclusion is still the same, The Petra YL fans are some of the best for rad use, especially in terms of backpressure vs. flow. Even if his rad is free flowing, it's still considered a high pressure environment compared to the open air use fans normally see. They perform great, what do you have against that? I don't see how I was wrong on either topic.

And don't get me wrong, this is just a debate. I have absolutely nothing against you on any level.


----------



## intel igent (Mar 26, 2008)

i have nothing against you either bud, but flamebait would appear to be flamebait.

im glad you like to debate, i hope you enjoy doing it with someone else.

like i said before there is NO need for us to discuss what the PROFESSIONALS have already covered.


----------



## savillm (Mar 26, 2008)

i got 7 of these fans in my case http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=2797&cat=519&page=1

and was thinking of getting 2 more for my 240mm rad on my watercooling system. they should cool my water down


----------



## Cold Storm (Mar 28, 2008)

all right, I was thinking. Over and over again, its been a pondering question of mine. I live in a tropical environment and I want to get the best out of my system. So I have been thinking of going water. I have a case that is somewhat water loving.. lol.. Its really water loving. Yet, I don't know much about Water so I want to know the thoughts on everything. The whole set up is what I'm asking about. I don't mind going piece by piece on buying. Kits are cool to, but I want the best for my buck. I want to spend around 300 for it all. I can go a few months on buying it if it's more bucks. I just want to get it all done before summer 1 of the year starts. I thank you all, and have learned a lot from you fits!


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## Jarman (Mar 28, 2008)

if its seriously tropical then some sort of phase change/chilled liquid may be in order


----------



## Cold Storm (Mar 28, 2008)

yeah, yeah... Water is what I'm wanting. I don't give a damn for e-penis, or anything like that. I asked for water. Wanting to learn more about it.


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## Wile E (Mar 29, 2008)

Ok, you want to spend $300, but what components would you like to cool?


----------



## Jarman (Mar 29, 2008)

water can only cool as low as the air temp though.  So say if ur air temp is 40 degrees, then ur cpu is gonna sit at 45 degrees idle no matter how good ur watercooling is.

Anyway.  Ud want the biggest rad possible.  A thermochill PA120.3 and good fans + shroud to match
Pump  - Laing D5
CPU block - DTEK Fuzion
GPU - Swiftech MCW60 and ramsinks
Res- Swiftech Micro Res/EK res.


----------



## Cold Storm (Mar 29, 2008)

Wile E said:


> Ok, you want to spend $300, but what components would you like to cool?



I want to cool the CPU, and GPU. I don't know yet if ram is an option. I would love to cool my NB, but with the blood iron, it voids warr.. So thats still up in the air.

Jarman, I get what your saying, and I do have that in my thoughts also. I've known that since I started looking. I just know that when going into our summer one, I'll be backing down my oc and so forth. Don't mind it, just trying to see if I don't have to.


----------



## DanishDevil (Mar 29, 2008)

Hey, I know you guys have recommended the DTek Fuzion, but I ran across this, and it looks like a kinda similar design.

Enzotech Sapphire CPU Water Block

Have you guys heard anything about it?


----------



## Fitseries3 (Mar 29, 2008)

DanishDevil said:


> Hey, I know you guys have recommended the DTek Fuzion, but I ran across this, and it looks like a kinda similar design.
> 
> Enzotech Sapphire CPU Water Block
> 
> Have you guys heard anything about it?



Sirkeldon has the enzotech. it's almost the same, just a bit different. both are good.


----------



## intel igent (Mar 29, 2008)

DanishDevil said:


> Enzotech Sapphire CPU Water Block
> 
> Have you guys heard anything about it?



decent performer, but i heard the tops are prone to cracking between the barbs


----------



## SirKeldon (Mar 29, 2008)

As far as my own experience with the Enzotech could say, i'll tell you it's in the same level of performance of D-Tek Fuzion since their designs are practically the same, also internally. I choose the Enzotech cause Fuzion was out of stock and the guys who sold me said me the same i'm telling to you. The only block better speaking about higher-restriction than Fuzion or Enzotech SCW-1 it's EK-Supreme.

And yes, my temps are sweet with Enzotech SCW-1 though my pump and rad are "shitty", much better than my old high-end air system, 10-15ºC better on full tasks with 0,13V more of voltage on the chip and more speed, of course. 

"Idle" temps (light multitask - chatting, browsing, iTunes ...)

1,39V - 3300Mhz - Air => 35-36/30-31ºC
1,52V - 3540Mhz - Water => 32-34/26-28ºC

"Full" max temps (10 hours of AMD Overdrive Stability Test)

1,39V - 3300Mhz - Air => 66º/60ºC
1,52V - 3540Mhz - Water => 54º/46ºC



intel igent said:


> decent performer, but i heard the tops are prone to cracking between the barbs



Ummm, i'll keep that in mind ... but i screwed hard the barbs, with hands as well with a monkey wrench and top it's still fine, i also screwed the hose clamps pretty hard while block was mounted and no cracks on barbs or strange sounds at the top. No leaks also. Thank you for sharing anyway


----------



## ThatGuy16 (Mar 30, 2008)

My water cooling parts should be here Tuesday. I bought distilled water, antifreeze and iodine. They said i should take out a pint of the distilled water and replace it with a pint of the antifreeze and use 4 drops of iodine. Does this sound right? I'll be using the apogee GTX, so it has an aluminum top.

this is the stuff, aside from the gallon of water.

Thanks


----------



## Jarman (Mar 30, 2008)

i used deionised water with 10-15% antifreeze (decent mobil antifreeze) in a mixed metal loop for years.  The more antifreeze uve got the worse ur cooling will be.  By the looks of it ur not even gonna use the water anymore?? (if ive read that right!).  If ur gonna use pure antifreeze for cooling u might as well stick to air cooling, it will probs cool better.  Plus the antibiological ur planning on using (iodine) will react with aluminium...so its no good, and u dont wanna use a copper salt coz uve got aluminium.

All u need for a mixed metal loop is deionised water and 15% of an antifreeze with decent inhibitors (such as a mobil or castrol 1).  I used it for years without a single problem


----------



## ThatGuy16 (Mar 30, 2008)

no, i'll be mixing the water and antfreeze together. about 10-15%


----------



## Jarman (Mar 30, 2008)

ah  that sounds about right then.  Not sure id bother with the iodine though tbh.


----------



## SirKeldon (Apr 16, 2008)

*Advice needed for a new improved loop*

My new rad and reservoir finally arrived!!! fit you're great man!!!! (EFFING CUSTOMS anyway!!! 13 days argh! had to tell you) ... and my case has been modded and prepared for the new and improved watercooling system as you can see here and mainly here. I'm telling you the complete parts of the future loop and also i have a few questions, as always 

- Enzotech SCW-1 Waterblock (EQUAL as D-Tek Fuzion, the interiors too, trust me)
- Hydor L20 (bringing 700LPH, so about 184 GPH or 3.1GPM)
- Swiftech MCR-220 (with 2 Delta fans pushing air through the rad, bringing 70CFM each) -new-
- HWLabs BlackIce GTS120 (1 fan -don't know which one yet- pushing air through the rad)
- Swiftech MicroRes -new-
- 7 feet of Tygon R-3603 (19-13mm) tubing -new-
- 1/2 liter of Feser Cooling Liquid Blue and 1 liter of acid green (thinking in test this last one)

Fans that could be used:

2 x SilenX iXtrema Pro Series - 120x25 - 72CFM
2 x Xilence (Blue-Led) - 120x25 - 68CFM
1 x A.C.Ryan (UV-led) - 120x25 - 77 CFM
1 x Panaflo FBH-12G series - 120x38 - 67 CFM

I thought about one loop and philbrown23 added another.

Loop 1:







Loop 2:






In the first loop i designed the only "hot tube" is the cpu > rad with the pump right before the block to improve flow. I thought it was the best option ... but philbrown23 told me to mount it as the second one, i could get better temps on the CPU and also keep the water cooled as well, fitseries3 also told me the second one was the best option ... but i'm afraid of killing the flow to the block. I've almost decided to mount it like they say but i wanted some more advice.

edit (04-18-2008): for suring the best flow to the block ... i'm going to run the loop 1

Thank you in advance! 

ps: feel free to comment about anything but the GTS120 position, can't be mounted vertical or at any other place right now 

ps(2): Martin's Flow Estimator recommended me 1.15-1.31GPM with this setup so i think i'm fine ...


----------



## lima4111 (Jul 1, 2008)

*Gigabyte Galaxy Liquid cooling system.*

HELLO, I'D LIKE TO TAKE A STAND IN FAVOR OF THE GIGABYTE GALAXY 2 LIQUID COOLING KIT! I'M NOT SURE IF THE GIGABYTE COOLING SYSTEM HAS BEEN A SUCCESS OR NOT. BUT I HAVE THERE SYSTEM AND EVEN THO THIS IS MY FIRST ATTEMPT AT LIQUID COOLING, I FOUND THERE KIT TO BE AN EXELLENT PRODUCT. THE PACKAGING IS SUPER, EVERYTHING IS PACKAGED IN HEAVY DENCE FOAM FOR MAX PROTECTION. THE PARTS ARE OF EXELLENT QUALITY. EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO LIQUID COOL THE CPU IS RIGHT THERE. THE KIT ALSO INCLUDES (2) ADDITIONAL INLINE TEES, FOR RUNNING LIQUID COOLING TO YOUR VIDEO, AND CHIPSET. I WAS NOT WORRIED ABOUT COOLING ANYTHING BUT MY CPU, WHICH IT HAS DONE AN EXCEPTIONAL JOB AT. I'M RUNNING AN INTEL QX9650 3.0 CPU AND I HAVE BEEN ABLE TO OVERCLOCK IT TO 4.20 AND IT HAS REMAINED COOL AND STABLE. THE INSTRUCTIONS ARE WELL DOCUMENTED, AND VERY EASY TO FOLLOW. IT COMES WITH MORE THAN ENOUGH TUBING TO COMPLETE THE INSTALATION. THE TUBING IS (1/2"ID) WHICH ALLOWS A HIGHER FLOW FOR THE COOLING LIQUID. I HAVE SEEN MANY THAT ARE USING TUBING AS SMALL AS 1/4"DIA.  THE SYSTEM IS WELL DESIGNED THE COMPONENTS OF HIGH QUALITY MATERIAL.
 I THINK IT'S GREAT. IT MIGHT COST YOU A LITTLE MORE THAN BUYING THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS AND BUILDING YOUR OWN. BUT IF YOUR LOOKING FOR A GOOD STARTER KIT, LOOK NO FURTHER!!


lima4111


----------



## Nick89 (Jul 1, 2008)

Hey, nice to meet you. Please do not post in all caps it becomes a headache to read.

The Galaxy II is good for beginners, but the pumps in that kit will Die after about 8 months

This happened to me unfortunatly I wasnt home when it happened and the Blue eye water block I had on my GPU melted/warped and started leaking into my case.

Also it only comes with a 120.1 radiator, which unfortunatly only gives you temps that a good air cooler gets. It is not enough for a CPU+ GPU config.


----------



## lima4111 (Jul 6, 2008)

*I disagree with you Nick!*

Sorry about that Nick...Have a lil problem seen what i'm typing. I'm only using the galaxy2 to cool the cpu and so far it has been great. The pump...oh yea the one that came with the origional setup didn't last but one day...lol It just up and quit. I bought a replacement and then then had the origional pump replaced so I have an extra one should this one fail. Any ways i'm running the QX9650 and i'm able to OC it to 4.33, with out any over heating at all. As for the GPU  I'm running the EVGA 9800GX2 and it is over clocked to GUP CLK 600 oc to 750, Mem clock 1000 oc to 1135, and the shader is linked and it's 1500,oc to 1850, and no cooling problems at all. My best score in 3DMark06 so far is 22752. In 3DMark05 28228 and in the AquaMark03 246,042. So all in all I think it's alot better than air as i tried that and didn't have much success. Granted it's not the best but it's better than what I had expected it to be. I never go off and leave my rig running!! I was told that ..that was a no  no ??..lol
Thanks for the input Nick!
 lima4111









Nick89 said:


> Hey, nice to meet you. Please do not post in all caps it becomes a headache to read.
> 
> The Galaxy II is good for beginners, but the pumps in that kit will Die after about 8 months
> 
> ...


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## Fitseries3 (Sep 17, 2008)

Resurrection of a dead thread!


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