# Whats best nonconductive Coolant, for Liquid cooling?



## DaedalusHelios (Apr 13, 2008)

Whats the best nonconductive Coolant, for Liquid cooling?

I have looked into Feser One, FluidXP+ and extreme, PC Chill, FluidXP+ ultra, MCT-40, MCT-5 but whats the best for the money that is nonconductive and non corrosive?

I am relatively new to liquid cooling but my knowledge in other sides of computing is pretty good so don't be afraid to get technical.


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## sneekypeet (Apr 13, 2008)

i know i will get bashed for this, but I run PC ICE. I have tested with a DMM and it is not conductive to start. Dirt may change this in the loop tho , I havent probed my res. to check.

I like it , Ive splashed it by accident and even dripped on my Blood Iron and one of my old 7600's while running, with no ill effects. 

Could have been luck on where it was dripping too, who knows really.....thats my 2 pennies on it!


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## [I.R.A]_FBi (Apr 13, 2008)

pure distilled water doesnt conduct current.


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## DaedalusHelios (Apr 13, 2008)

[I.R.A]_FBi said:


> pre distilled water doesnt conduct current.




Until it becomes impure which is common.

Adding Biocide and anti-corrosives would make for good cooling with distilled water but it will conduct current when dust or impurities are added.

I want to safe guard against my beginner level skill with liquid cooling.


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## mrw1986 (Apr 13, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> i know i will get bashed for this, but I run PC ICE. I have tested with a DMM and it is not conductive to start. Dirt may change this in the loop tho , I havent probed my res. to check.
> 
> I like it , Ive slpashed it by accident and even dripped on my Blood Iron and one of my old 7600's while running, with no ill effects.
> 
> Could have been luck on where it was dripping too, who knows really.....thats my 2 pennies on it!



QFT, saved my brand new 780i + 2x 8800GT when I spilled some on them by opening my radiator/rez while i was running (doh!)


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## DaedalusHelios (Apr 13, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> i know i will get bashed for this, but I run PC ICE. I have tested with a DMM and it is not conductive to start. Dirt may change this in the loop tho , I havent probed my res. to check.
> 
> I like it , Ive slpashed it by accident and even dripped on my Blood Iron and one of my old 7600's while running, with no ill effects.
> 
> Could have been luck on where it was dripping too, who knows really.....thats my 2 pennies on it!



Is it officially nonconductive? 

Is it cheap? If so where could I buy it? 







mrw1986 said:


> QFT, saved my brand new 780i + 2x 8800GT when I spilled some on them by opening my radiator/rez while i was running (doh!)



Whats QFT, or is it listed as QFT everywhere?


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## sneekypeet (Apr 13, 2008)

PC ICE at their site...primochill....says non conductive. Its like $20 for a bottle and they sell it collored or thay sell dyebombs , so you can color as you wish!

http://www.primochill.com/index.php?target=categories&category_id=338


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## DaedalusHelios (Apr 13, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> PC ICE at their site...primochill....says non conductive. Its like $20 for a bottle and they sell it collored or thay sell dyebombs , so you can color as you wish!



How often would you recommend purging the system of it for a fresh application?


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## erocker (Apr 13, 2008)

Though, the liquid may be non-conductive, it does after time pick up metallic particles from the blocks it runs through.  Non-conductive or not, make sure everything is sealed and tested and primed as far away from your hardware as possible.


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## sneekypeet (Apr 13, 2008)

IDK rally ...had mine running for like 6 months or better and I see no need to "purge" yet. No discoloration to my block (see through top), or "whiting/milking" of my tygon tubing either. My guess is when ever the color doesnt suit anylonger?????

@ erocker...thats why I was thinking of DMM'ing the resistance in my res after 6 months of opperation....lol


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## DaedalusHelios (Apr 13, 2008)

erocker said:


> Though, the liquid may be non-conductive, it does after time pick up metallic particles from the blocks it runs through.  Non-conductive or not, make sure everything is sealed and tested and primed as far away from your hardware as possible.




What do you mean by primed?


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## erocker (Apr 13, 2008)

When you are priming the pump and the system to get the air bubbles out of it.  It's good to have the tubing already routed through your case so it doesn't have to be disconnected again, just keep it as far away as you can initially in case of any leaks.


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## DaedalusHelios (Apr 13, 2008)

Is this Feser one a gimmick? 

Or does it really work?


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## sneekypeet (Apr 13, 2008)

if you are talking about this....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9D4k9rUoJ4M

Primochill had a video on their site I linked earlier , where they dump PCICE on a running system!


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## MKmods (Apr 13, 2008)

be careful about things done under Ideal circumstances. Its hard to tell if the fluid was modified, the fan was modified and so on.

Also people take it upon themselves to pass their thoughts off as gospel. Begin with "simpler the better".

Rather get caught up in fluid bashing again its best to be as simple as possible till you figure it all out.

the advice given so far has been very good.


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## DaedalusHelios (Apr 13, 2008)

Yeah, nobody suggested "feser one" so I thought it might be something that I wasn't picking up on that would be a N00b mistake I might make.


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## MKmods (Apr 13, 2008)

I remember reading the ingredients of the Fesser and they were Water and Antifreeze.

you may as well just add ur own antifreeze.

How about this 
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7...e_Water_-_1000_ml_FA-0054.html?tl=g30c103s753
LOL, filtered water for comps...

Here is a good inexpensive option
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2...UV_Reactive_HydrX_Coolant.html?tl=g30c103s186

PT Nuke is good too
http://www.petrastechshop.com/pepcobi1.html

How about Pentosin
http://www.petrastechshop.com/peg11coadb4o.html


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## DaedalusHelios (Apr 13, 2008)

I have plenty left over from my recent car work.


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## mrw1986 (Apr 13, 2008)

DaedalusHelios said:


> Whats QFT, or is it listed as QFT everywhere?



Quoted for truth


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## DaedalusHelios (Apr 13, 2008)

mrw1986 said:


> Quoted for truth



Oh... OK.


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## oily_17 (Apr 13, 2008)

Take a look here

http://forums.techpowerup.com/showpost.php?p=746120&postcount=24


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## MKmods (Apr 13, 2008)

who the heck is Brett Thomas? and what says his opinion matters?
be careful with people that pretend to be experts.
(this isant to knock him only, but more to say when we blindly follow someones advice just because its printed somewhere dosent always have good results)


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## DaedalusHelios (Apr 13, 2008)

oily_17 said:


> Take a look here
> 
> http://forums.techpowerup.com/showpost.php?p=746120&postcount=24



Yeah I have seen that review before.... I am kinda amazed that he would say FluidXP is worse than water. 

FluidXP has got to be alright or people would stop using it.


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## MKmods (Apr 13, 2008)

The main advantage to the FluidXP is the elimination of toxic ingredients. As you get older you will realize the more crap/poison we use has to go somewhere eventually.

FluidXP has tried to address that.


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## PrudentPrincess (Apr 13, 2008)

Anti-freeze is just fine for the environment. Its like liquid fertilizer!


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## DaedalusHelios (Apr 13, 2008)

PrudentPrincess said:


> Anti-freeze is just fine for the environment. Its like liquid fertilizer!



Dogs love it! 




But it does kill them though.


I have bought everything for the water cooling, except the coolant.

I have spent $184 so far today.  

But MKmods helped me so much!!!! He explained everything about it over PM. He is so patient! 

He is such an asset to this forum.  He also sold me alot of stuff on discount he had layin around.


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## MKmods (Apr 13, 2008)

PrudentPrincess said:


> Anti-freeze is just fine for the environment. Its like liquid fertilizer!



lol, in a survival of the fittest kind of way


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## DaedalusHelios (Apr 13, 2008)

MKmods said:


> lol, in a survival of the fittest kind of way




 I know... but eventually they could evolve to be immune to it.


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## MKmods (Apr 13, 2008)

By the way I have 
MCT-5
Pentosin G11
PrimoChill Purple Ice
if you need them.

By the way does any one know anything about mct-5? I have a quart of it I got from DD a while ago and never touched.


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## DaedalusHelios (Apr 13, 2008)

Is the G11 or purple ice nearly full?


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## Silverel (Apr 13, 2008)

QFT is "Quoted for truth"

I hear good things about Feser One. Not that I WC, if I did, that'd be the stuff I would try out.

edit---v
lol... sorry, opened this tab a while ago... just got around to responding to it... you can ignore me if ya like


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## MKmods (Apr 13, 2008)

I threw in the bottle of pentosin in with the other stuff. Remember its basically just blue german antifreeze.

Have fun with the new stuff, keep us posted.


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## DaedalusHelios (Apr 13, 2008)

Thank you all very much for everything.

I should make a project log. 

Well, goodnight all!


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## intel igent (Apr 13, 2008)

MKmods said:


> who the heck is Brett Thomas? and what says his opinion matters?
> be careful with people that pretend to be experts.
> (this isant to knock him only, but more to say when we blindly follow someones advice just because its printed somewhere dosent always have good results)





so all of a sudden youre an expert? and the only opinion that matters is your own?

everyone else is wrong because the "modfather" said so 

i think you should heed some of your own advice 

PCice is apparently quite good doesnt clot/congeel


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## mrw1986 (Apr 13, 2008)

intel igent said:


> so all of a sudden youre an expert? and the only opinion that matters is your own?
> 
> everyone else is wrong because the "modfather" said so
> 
> ...



While I don't agree with the first 3 lines, your last statement is 100% true.


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## panchoman (Apr 13, 2008)

My pick is FluidXP. Purging it every few months sounds good, as it'll pick up ions from the metal blocks and everything over time and will become to get more and more conductive as erocker said. and of course fluidxp looks awesome and doesn't stain the tubes much and is one of the best coolants performance wise. and as mkmods said, its a very clean coolant. its fda certified as being food safe and it has a pH of 7.4


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## MKmods (Apr 13, 2008)

intel igent said:


> so all of a sudden youre an expert? and the only opinion that matters is your own?
> 
> everyone else is wrong because the "modfather" said so
> 
> ...



Im glad you brought this up. Il tell you who I am.

I am someone that does NOT take products from companies to promote them.

I am someone that has made many logs to help people like you to learn how to make their comps better and in all my threads I stress Less is More.

As to me being an expert I have 35 years of Building (cars,boats planes, homes,businesses), Designing, and modding. So yes I am an EXPERT. 

I give my advice to others so they can learn from my mistakes.


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## erocker (Apr 13, 2008)

intel igent said:


> so all of a sudden youre an expert? and the only opinion that matters is your own?
> 
> everyone else is wrong because the "modfather" said so
> 
> ...



This type of crap needs to stop.  Please stop insulting other members and inciting arguments.  Post your advice and let those in question take it as they will and figure it out for themselves.  Thank you.


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## panchoman (Apr 13, 2008)

erocker said:


> This type of crap needs to stop.  Please stop insulting other members.



i agree.


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## sneekypeet (Apr 13, 2008)

BTW for all the doubters and ppl who think they know about a product they have never used, when I probe my res. with my DMM it shows absolutely no conductivity after 6 months of use.

Please stop the misinformation train here!!!!!

Either have the product an proof of your claims or dont make the claim in the first place!!!!!

Thanks in advance!


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## EastCoasthandle (Apr 13, 2008)

I read through all the posts and I am not getting it.  What is there to debate about?  A quick stop to your local grocery store and $1 can get you 1 gallon of distilled water 
If you want to buy after market coolant here are a few things you should consider:
-if or when you have to flush the system because you see particles or impurities that must be removed
-if or when you decide to add/modify or change your loop
-if or when you get a new PC case, motherboard, video card or CPU and you need to dismantle your loop

Under those circumstances that's hard money flushed down the drain.  If you can live with that by all means go ahead and buy it.


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## sneekypeet (Apr 13, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> I read through all the posts and I am not getting it.  What is there to debate about?  A quick stop to your local grocery store and $1 can get you 1 gallon of distilled water
> If you want to buy after market coolant here are a few things you should consider:
> -you have to flush the system because you see particles or impurities that must be removed
> -you decide to add/modify or change your loop
> ...



1 how often is this flush needed? or is every product/loop different?

2 I set it up so I can drain it, so adding a block is one clamp away from easy as pie

3 what does the dismantling of the loop have to do with what coolant I use? again a drain?

no trying to argue, just looking for answers...the debate isnt really on the coolant chosen, my end was based on misinformation!

Ive went from DFI939 to ABIT775 to DFI775 and had an SLI setup in my rig with Maze4's and a HD3870 with a Maze on it. Same fluid from day one...same investment.


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## EastCoasthandle (Apr 13, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> 1 how often is this flush needed? or is every product/loop different?
> 
> 2 I set it up so I can drain it, so adding a block is one clamp away from easy as pie
> 
> ...


1. Depends on the individual, there is really no set guide line. For example, some who don't flush their radiators may find containments in the loop that require a flush, for example.

2.  I am not sure I understand this question in relation to my post.  However, I'll try...Few (that I know) use some sort of shut off valve system on every barb.  Therefore, any change/addition of a water block (be it CPU, GPU, Chipset or Mosfet) requires one to drain the loop of it's fluids.    Once the WB is changed/added you install fresh coolant/water/etc.

3.  Simple, when most dismantle their traditional PC water cooling loop one must flush the loop of it's fluids.  

In all cost is the factor I am putting into this topic.  Which is something anyone should consider when buying after market coolant.


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## mrw1986 (Apr 13, 2008)

You can't just reuse the same coolant? I'm not very experienced in water cooling so I don't know tbh. I just started water cooling about a month ago...and I'm using an enclosed water system.


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## sneekypeet (Apr 13, 2008)

Ok so Im not right in reusing my coolant in #2 and #3? 

You are saying its a MUST to flush and replace the fluid. Whereas I have reused my same fluid I put in my loop for 3 mobo's and 2 different cards.

I have to dissagree, as I have found no ill effects from reusing coolant.


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## EastCoasthandle (Apr 13, 2008)

mrw1986 said:


> You can't just reuse the same coolant? I'm not very experienced in water cooling so I don't know tbh. I just started water cooling about a month ago...and I'm using an enclosed water system.



I would never re-use coolant no different then re-use distilled water.  The main reason IMO is that you want to remove containments that may have built up since you installed it.  Call it preventive maintenance if you like.  Sure, there can be various examples to the contrary.  However, from what I've observed the main reason why some do is because:
-the time it takes to re-order another bottle when you have a PC awaiting fluid
-the cost of having to re-order another bottle Plus shipping in some cases




sneekypeet said:


> Ok so Im not right in reusing my coolant in #2 and #3?
> 
> You are saying its a MUST to flush and replace the fluid. Whereas I have reused my same fluid I put in my loop for 3 mobo's and 2 different cards.
> 
> I have to dissagree, as I have found no ill effects from reusing coolant.



I believe you are taking my suggestions a bit out of context.  What you do with your loop is fine for you however, it cannot be used as a guide line for everyone else.  For example, I have used regular tap water in my loop with a few drops of 91% alcohol and it works for me.  However,  I didn't say that I live only a few blocks from a water filtration plant which just recently did a complete flush from the reservoir (not sure of the technical term) and all the water pipes in my area are new.    In this example I would not tell others to do what I do for the simple fact that the circumstances in my area are not the norm for everyone else.  

Having said that, I believe that there are many external factors that come into play that causes one person to water cool a certain way.  However, IMO I believe it's the exception not the rule.


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## mrw1986 (Apr 13, 2008)

I ordered 3 bottles of PC-Ice a few months ago lol


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## sneekypeet (Apr 13, 2008)

Thank you very much for clearifying that it is only "IMO" that the coolant should be changed....again I am looking for hard evidence to say it is worth the change.

If I had contaminants in my loop wouldnt the loop then become conductive , which it isnt?


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## PrudentPrincess (Apr 13, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> Thank you very much for clearifying that it is only "IMO" that the coolant should be changed....again I am looking for hard evidence to say it is worth the change.
> 
> If I had contaminants in my loop wouldnt the loop then become conductive , which it isnt?



I would replace the coolant/water every 18 months or so. It's not necessarily required but not doing so assumes that your loop is perfect in every way. (no corrosion, all the blocks/parts are made from the same metal, etc)


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## EastCoasthandle (Apr 13, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> Thank you very much for clearifying that it is only "IMO" that the coolant should be changed....again I am looking for hard evidence to say it is worth the change.
> 
> If I had contaminants in my loop wouldnt the loop then become conductive , which it isnt?


You have to also worry about algae growth and other loose material, etc that can get inside your pump, build up around your block or tubing or clog up a water block's smaller nozzles.   If you have a water block that uses small nozzles to dispel heat from it's base small contaminants can clog it up and increase your temps, for example.


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## sneekypeet (Apr 13, 2008)

EastCoasthandle said:


> You have to also worry about algae growth and other loose material, etc that can get inside your pump, build up around your block or tubing or clog up a water block's smaller nozzles.   If you have a water block that uses small nozzles to dispel heat from it's base small contaminants can clog it up and increase your temps, for example.



Most likely this would cause a temp increase as well, like dust in an air cooler?

I mean, I should get signs of this correct? Besides the greenness of algae.

BTW PCICE includes an algaecide as well do the dye bombs.


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## DaedalusHelios (Apr 13, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> Most likely this would cause a temp increase as well, like dust in an air cooler?
> 
> I mean, I should get signs of this correct? Besides the greenness of algae.
> 
> BTW PCICE includes an algaecide as well do the dye bombs.



That PC Ice went on sale so I bought some!


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## EastCoasthandle (Apr 13, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> Most likely this would cause a temp increase as well, like dust in an air cooler?
> 
> I mean, I should get signs of this correct? Besides the greenness of algae.
> 
> BTW PCICE includes an algaecide as well do the dye bombs.



I am not sure what you mean by air cooler.  But, if you are talking about radiators or traditional heat sinks a quick physical inspection can determine if a can of air is needed to clean them.  When it comes to water blocks we don't have such luxuries.  When one has to remove a water block from the loop then dismantle a water block that can be very time consuming.  Something most of us don't want to do at all if it can be prevented (thus one reason why to keep your fluids, etc in tip top shape).  And, in some cases only used as a last resort when attempting to determine why temps are not as they should be.


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## intel igent (Apr 13, 2008)

1st to the O/P : i apologize that youre thread got tarnished with this crap.

2nd erocker i aint tryin to incite no arguments with anyone but i gotta call it like i see it 

3rd i dont want a reply to this post, you want to talk to me you PM me as i did you 

this forum does not need drama 



MKmods said:


> Im glad you brought this up. Il tell you who I am.
> 
> 1)I am someone that does NOT take products from companies to promote them.
> 
> ...



1)really?  how many times have you approached a company for sponsorship? how many times have you been approached? you have posts stating those facts, or have you edited/deleted them already? 

2)to help people like ME? although your logs are VERY informative i do not NEED to read them, i read them (work logs) beacuse i enjoy information, ingenuity, craftsmanship and imagination. im no slouch myself my friend  to you less is more? RIGHT  and because i have not posted any logs im a fool? 

3)so you think youre better than the rest of us? just because you have so much experience that does NOT make you an expert, it makes you experienced  sometimes "experts" are wrong just like everyone else, were all humans. i can assure you there are many experienced members on this forum you and i are not the only ones.

4)as do I

you know what i said to you via PM's, which you ignored, you havent changed at all mark :shadedshu i was trying to be mature and civil but like i said you havent changed at all.

i will agree to disagree with you as we are BOTH entitled to our own opinions, on my end there are NO harsh feelings, you im not so shure.

good day


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## erocker (Apr 13, 2008)

This stops now.  *There are no more warnings.


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## DaedalusHelios (Apr 13, 2008)

intel igent said:


> 1st to the O/P : i apologize that youre thread got tarnished with this crap.
> 
> 2nd erocker i aint tryin to incite no arguments with anyone but i gotta call it like i see it
> 
> ...



You just insulted the guy and said, " on my end there are NO harsh feelings, you im not so shure."

SO, you are insulting him, and then basically telling him he is to immature to shrug it off dispite insulting him publicly.:shadedshu

Who is right about what coolant is best, is not as important as being courteous to one another on this forum. "Keeping it Civil" is the opposite of what you are doing. Please stop this.

I just wanted a second opinion..... I didn't want the guy(Mkmods) who just spent many hours teaching me the basics, (so I don't make mistakes and break equipment that I don't have the money to replace) to be insulted publicly. 

This is not right.


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## erocker (Apr 13, 2008)

Back on topic, or I will request this thread be closed.


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## mrw1986 (Apr 13, 2008)

erocker, I would request it be closed anyway...obviously this topic is too much for some people to handle. This should be something handled over PMs.


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## DaedalusHelios (Apr 13, 2008)

mrw1986 said:


> erocker, I would request it be closed anyway...obviously this topic is too much for some people to handle. This should be something handled over PMs.



I agree..... but thank you to all that have given positive input on this thread! I really needed the info and you guys provided it!


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## EastCoasthandle (Apr 13, 2008)

^^I hope it all works out for the best.  Let us know when you get it going and show us some pics!


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## mrw1986 (Apr 13, 2008)

Good luck man! Make sure you do a project log! I can't wait to go head first into water! I'm only splashing my feet in it right now.


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## intel igent (May 17, 2008)

a little food for thought courtesey of Alex @ petras, pay close attention 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-yT7cvfo3o


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## flclisgreat (May 17, 2008)

a gallon of distilled water and some anti freeze. about 5 bucks total at local store/hardware store.


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## Mussels (May 17, 2008)

liquid helium!


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## intel igent (May 17, 2008)

how about this one

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWHFLbZEewU&feature=user


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## aspire (May 17, 2008)

Theres also this new one from Alex

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-yT7cvfo3o&feature=user


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## intel igent (May 17, 2008)

aspire said:


> Theres also this new one from Alex
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-yT7cvfo3o&feature=user



check post #62


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## aspire (May 17, 2008)

Damn. didn't see that one, I saw your last link and said aha he didn't post the new one


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## niko084 (May 17, 2008)

I can't say myself but I know a few people who use "water wetter" which is actually a coolant additive for cars, disipates heat faster than water and has a boiling temp much higher, not sure if its conductive though.


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## flclisgreat (May 17, 2008)

as the petra's videos prove, everything and anything will be conductive.


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## aspire (May 17, 2008)

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=2973954&postcount=5

http://www.e30m3performance.com/myths/more_myths1/Water_Wetter/water_wetter.htm


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## niko084 (May 17, 2008)

flclisgreat said:


> as the petra's videos prove, everything and anything will be conductive.



Although thats true, thats also fairly common knowledge, what we are looking for is something better then water out of the tap or salt water....


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## flclisgreat (May 17, 2008)

niko084 said:


> Although thats true, thats also fairly common knowledge, what we are looking for is something better then water out of the tap or salt water....



well putting either of them in your system automatically makes you stupid enough that you deserver any parts to do die that do


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## aspire (May 17, 2008)

niko084 said:


> Although thats true, thats also fairly common knowledge, what we are looking for is something better then water out of the tap or salt water....



Apparently it isn't common knowledge because there are a good 5-6 different companies selling "Non-Conductive" coolant, and people buy it...


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## niko084 (May 17, 2008)

aspire said:


> Apparently it isn't common knowledge because there are a good 5-6 different companies selling "Non-Conductive" coolant, and people buy it...



Non-Conductive is more of a general term..


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## aspire (May 17, 2008)

How about we take the dictionary definition of Non-Conductive.

Non: Does not
Conductive: having the quality or power of conducting heat or electricity or sound.

Therefore Non-Conductive literally reads as: not having having the quality or power of conducting heat or electricity or sound.

Sounds pretty specific to me...


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## intel igent (May 17, 2008)

niko084 said:


> I can't say myself but I know a few people who use "water wetter" which is actually a coolant additive for cars, disipates heat faster than water and has a boiling temp much higher, not sure if its conductive though.



water wetter has no performance effect on PC W/C and is not reccomended for PC use

EDIT : hehe didnt see your link to water wetter aspire 

dont start flaming please, this is a good thread and hate for it to be closed

false advertising anyone?


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## niko084 (May 17, 2008)

aspire said:


> How about we take the dictionary definition of Non-Conductive.
> 
> Non: Does not
> Conductive: having the quality or power of conducting heat or electricity or sound.
> ...



You don't need to be a smart ***, its a general term used in general testing that the fluid in its base stage is not conductive.


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## niko084 (May 17, 2008)

intel igent said:


> water wetter has no performance effect on PC W/C and is not reccomended for PC use



Well by all means it would have a perforamnce effect, if it is not reccomended for another reason that wouldn't surprise me one bit.


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## aspire (May 17, 2008)

niko084 said:


> Well by all means it would have a perforamnce effect, if it is not reccomended for another reason that wouldn't surprise me one bit.



From my earlier link,

*"Water Wetter" is not designed to lower your car's bulk coolant temperature.

"Water Wetter" is designed to reduce hot spots in your cylinder head.  It does this by reducing the build-up of water vapor in any superheated areas.

"Water Wetter" does not increase the boiling point of water.*

If at any point in your loop you have water vapor aka localized boiling you have a bigger issue than can be solved by just using an additive.

All water wetter does is lower the surface tension of water to prevent insulation due to localized boiling, and lubricate the pump to an extent.


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## niko084 (May 17, 2008)

Aww I didn't see the link, I always had the wrong idea about what it was all about I guess.


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