# My First Custom H20 Loop - Lancool PC-K62 (Poor Man's Lian-Li) - Ross - 56k Warning!



## Ross211 (Jul 23, 2010)

*CPU Waterblock*
D'Tek Fuzion V2

*Pump*
Laing D5 Vario/Swiftech MCP655

*Radiator*
Swiftech MCR220-QP Res

*Fittings*
Bitspower True Silver G1/4 High Flow 1/2" Barb - BP-SLWP-C01

*Tubing*
1/2in. ID (3/4in. OD) Feser Flexible PVC Tubing - UV Blue

*Clamps*
Spring Clamps - See photos below

*Fan(s)*
YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SM-124B - UV Blue Frame with 4 Blue leds - Medium Speed (in case, pushing air out)
Xigmatek 120MM (on radiator bottom)
Lian-Li 120MM (on radiator top)

*Accessories*

Radbox

Silver kill coil - iandh (Microbial action, kill algae / germs, no need for hydrx)

Arctic Cooling MX-2 (My first time using it, hope its good)










































The Lancool PC-K62 (Poor Man's Lian-Li) has these rubber grommets below the 120MM Fan that are already perforated for H20 cooling.  However, they restrict your tubing badly unless you cut out the rubber inside of the grommet, like shown in this photo.  You can use a box cutter or razor blade for this job.






I used a box cutter to cut my grommets out.











This is the spring clamp tool we are working with using these spring clamps.  Koolance makes spring clamp style clamps but my good bro Charles got these from an auto website online in bulk - They're the same thing Koolance would sell you.

















Here is where I'm at visually with the case now - Lot's of cables are still going to be tidied and moved around. 

For some reason the UV cold cathode I was using is now only lighting up partially.  It lights up about a 1/4'' of the stick on both - I wonder if I messed it up or made a stupid somewhere?  I'm pretty certain I've got it hooked up securely, I don't know what could cause this?


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## Ross211 (Jul 23, 2010)

*Charles' Notes From The Build*

1. If you build a similar setup, in the PC-K62, 6 feet is exactly the right amount of tubing. LOL.

Seriously, if you have a different GPU layout, it might be cramped at the I/O panel and plugging in monitors. Also, a little more tubing on the return hose from the CPU to the pump would be better if you have multiple GPU's. The hose can route along the trailing side of the 5.25" bays.

2. Take the radiator off the rad box and uncoil the tubes outside of the case. The radiator can be held at the back, above the rest of the system, and you can add water very easily while standing away from your other components. Bleeding is much simpler this way, too; no blowing!

3. #41 o-rings from Home Depot (9/16" OD, 7/16" ID, 1/16" thick) are the perfect fit for DD or BitsPower Fat Boys. I use them on my BitsPower Y fitting, and my Apogee XT. No seepage like the stock o-rings.

4. The holes in the bottom of the Lancool are exactly the right dimensions for the base on that Swiftech pump.

BTW, the part number is #96755. Danco packaged them for Home Depot.

One thing that would be cool is if you could get a pump top that allows the inlet and out let to come out of the top, like the current outlet does. You could pull the pump out from underneath the GPU then.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bid5modtop.html


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## mjkmike (Jul 23, 2010)

Great work


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## PopcornMachine (Jul 23, 2010)

I haven't justified the cost nor had the nerve to try water cooling.

Congrats on a job well done.  Must be relief to see it all working.

Also curious to know how much your temps improved.


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## MT Alex (Jul 23, 2010)

Get a haircut, HIPPY!

Looks just like my 'dew.  Girls love the curls 

Very nice looking build.  You're in trouble now, once the water bug bites you, it infects everything.  More rads, more blocks, more fans, more tubing....soon you'll need more room in your case.  And then more room in your room


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## Ross211 (Jul 23, 2010)

PopcornMachine said:


> I haven't justified the cost nor had the nerve to try water cooling.
> 
> Congrats on a job well done.  Must be relief to see it all working.
> 
> Also curious to know how much your temps improved.



I can sum up the pros to liquid cooling I've experienced so far -
*Much better temps (28C-33C idle amongst all cores, and ~52C Prime95 Small FFTs - 4Ghz @ 1.41v in BIOS)
*Way less noise - My old Xiggy Dark Knight with a push pull sounded like a damn bee buzzing in my room
*Looks are amazing, just take a look at other H20 loops out there that are more glamorous 




MT Alex said:


> Get a haircut, HIPPY!
> You're in trouble now, once the water bug bites you, it infects everything.  More rads, more blocks, more fans, more tubing....soon you'll need more room in your case.  And then more room in your room



Yeah dude I need a haircut.  I've already convinced myself I'm going to get a full cover GPU block with my next GPU purchase.  I'm planning on getting a new GPU around the end of the year.  I figure I might as well start her out right on H20.  I think my next step up is a GPU and northbridge block in the loop.  

Thanks for the comments


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## PopcornMachine (Jul 23, 2010)

Very nice temps for 4Ghz. 

And I just realized that you're using a EP45-UD3P.  I've got one in my Q6600 Linux box.  You know quality my man. 

Thought that board looked familiar.


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## p0Pe (Jul 23, 2010)

You would make things SO much easier for yourself if you bought a reservoir lol.


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## JrRacinFan (Jul 23, 2010)

Move your fans to a pull config. See if that works out better for u. 

Looks really nice!


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## Mindweaver (Jul 23, 2010)

Badass setup! I like it!


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## Ross211 (Jul 23, 2010)

PopcornMachine said:


> Very nice temps for 4Ghz.
> 
> And I just realized that you're using a EP45-UD3P.  I've got one in my Q6600 Linux box.  You know quality my man.
> 
> Thought that board looked familiar.



GA-EP45-UD3P is among the best for LGA775.  Its debatable but it probably is the best LGA775 board for Core 2 Quad overclocking.  It is the holy grail of overclocking for people wanting to push their C2Q.



p0Pe said:


> You would make things SO much easier for yourself if you bought a reservoir lol.



The MCR220-QP Res (The Radiator I have) -

*features an integrated reservoir sufficient for years of operations without coolant refills, and threaded hubs compatible with 1/4" NPSM, BSPP, and G1/4 fitting (1/4" thread to 1/4", 3/8 or 1/2" barbs)

* 2-pass, single row construction
* Brass body and tubes, louvered copper fins
* Optimized fin-density for maximum heat dissipation at low noise
* Patent-pending self-purging brass plenum chamber
* M3.5 threaded fan and case-mounting holes
* Slim form factor 11.2 x 5 x 1.3" (284 x 128 x 34mm)
* Integrated reservoir & fill-cap
* 1/4" NPSM threaded hubs
* High-durability acrylic paint finish
* ROHS compliant
*




[stolen from Swiftech]

In my case and loop configuration I would be better off using a T-Line. My pump is adjustable in speeds 1-5. I can't run my pump at its highest (5) because this Swiftech MCR 220 Res draws in air due to the vortex my pump creates in my loop. I have to run my pump at speed 3 to avoid the problem of H20 not being able to chill out long enough in the reservoir - I think this is what is causing the vortex and shooting air bubbles from my radiator straight to the CPU block.

I know the explanation above is hard to understand but it's the best I could put it. I hope it helps anyone deciding to use this pump or radiator.



JrRacinFan said:


> Move your fans to a pull config. See if that works out better for u.
> 
> Looks really nice!



The radiator has 2x120MM's pushing air through its fins and away from my case (Lian-Li on top, Xigmatek on bottom).  In my case right in front of the radbox there is a medium speed Yate Loon pushing air out towards the radiator.

What configuration with the fans exactly are you suggesting?

Thanks for the comments and suggestions.


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## p0Pe (Jul 23, 2010)

Thats what i mean...

Using a REAL reservoir would save you the trouble of constantly having air in your radiator + you are pulling fluid from the cpu block. You would be better off putting a reservoir in between the pump and the cpu block so the air can be trapped inside the res instead of in the radiator


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## JrRacinFan (Jul 23, 2010)

Ross211 said:


> The radiator has 2x120MM's pushing air through its fins and away from my case (Lian-Li on top, Xigmatek on bottom).  In my case right in front of the radbox there is a medium speed Yate Loon pushing air out towards the radiator.
> 
> What configuration with the fans exactly are you suggesting?
> 
> Thanks for the comments and suggestions.



Pulling air through versus pushing. You may notice a slight increase in performance out of your rad. I know I did with my Koolance 120.2 and about a 50% difference(difference in load temps) out of my cheap heater core I am using as a single 120. In other words, attach your radbox to the radiator and put the fans behind it with the fans blowing away from the rad.


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## n-ster (Jul 24, 2010)

Maybe I`ll WC my i7 920 that is in a K62


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## Ross211 (Jul 25, 2010)

p0Pe said:


> Thats what i mean...
> 
> Using a REAL reservoir would save you the trouble of constantly having air in your radiator + you are pulling fluid from the cpu block. You would be better off putting a reservoir in between the pump and the cpu block so the air can be trapped inside the res instead of in the radiator




I decided to use a Y-Fitting to fully bleed all the air out of my lines.  I used a combination of moving the radiator around and switching my secondary power supply on & off.  It has helped add some restriction to the loop which is what I needed 

Now I've been testing to see what speed I should set my pump at to obtain the best temps.  I've been letting my system run Prime95 Small FFT's while adjusting the rheostat on the back of the pump.  I've come to the conclusion so far that in between 4 and 5 is the sweet spot.

Here are some pics of where I am at now.  I still am working on cables and waiting on my UV cathodes.  More pics to come soon 






^^^^^^ The "plug".  A good bro hooked me up with some extra tubing and the UV Y-Fitting.  I got my "plug" from a local auto parts store.  Brake Bleeder Repair Kit part number 13915 - $5.99











^^^^^ This is how I worked most of the air out.  We would watch for air bubbles and then switch the power supply off and hope for them to come out of the short end of the Y-Fitting.  Then turn back on again - kinda like wax on, wax off.


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## Ross211 (Jul 29, 2010)

*Almost Complete*

I'm nearing full completion with this custom loop.  I got my cold cathode and fill port today.  I've done away with the Brake Bleeder Repair Kit as it does not seal on this 1/2'' ID Feser PVC  

So I resorted to a real Fillport fitting for the tubing off my Y - Swiftech 1/4" BSPP to 1/2" barb fill-port fittings - High polish chrome plated brass


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## JrRacinFan (Jul 29, 2010)

I see u still didnt adjust those fans yet  

Still looks good and probly performs just as well. I like alot you get a 8.75/10


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## guitarfreaknation (Jul 29, 2010)

How much would a loop like this cost, if you can share that ofcourse. Really nice work though


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## Ross211 (Jul 29, 2010)

JrRacinFan said:


> I see u still didnt adjust those fans yet
> 
> Still looks good and probly performs just as well. I like alot you get a 8.75/10



Hey now I haven't put this in the case gallery just yet  

Don't judge me yet, I'm not worthy 



guitarfreaknation said:


> How much would a loop like this cost, if you can share that ofcourse. Really nice work though


 




*
Keep in mind a few things with this total $ I came up with (I made this before my purchase btw) *-
*Total circled in red does not include shipping from the two different places I ordered from (Jab-Tech & Petra's Tech Shop)
*I got a deal on the D'Tek Fuzion V2 CPU Block, it's normally around $60
*My friend hooked me up with two BitsPower fittings (saved me a few $1 bills)
*Total doesn't include the spring clamps I used.  These were also hooked up.
*Total doesn't include my recently purchased fillport and cold cathodes


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## guitarfreaknation (Jul 29, 2010)

thats a nice chunk of cash but damn its worth it.. again, nice work with the loop


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## Jolly-Swagman (Aug 3, 2010)

Nice work on your first WC setup, nice case too


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## Ross211 (Sep 19, 2010)

*MCW80 GPU Block - GPU pr0n*

My post from last night got deleted due to maintenance ;~( - I think I said WTF a thousand times until I realized what had happened.

I recently purchased an MCW80 GPU Block from a fellow TPU Member (Thanks mlee49).  I finally got around to incorporating it into my loop.

I ordered a Bitspower D5 MOD TOP V2 (Arcylic Version), but it turns out it won't work with my setup how I want to.  It's sucky but Bitspower's own G1/4 1/2'' FatBoy fittings won't work with their own pump top using 1/2'' ID 3/4'' OD Feser UV.  The in&out on the top of the pump top are too close together to use my style of fittings and tubing.

I'm using a Thermalright GTX 285/260 VRM-Heatsink kit on this XFX GTX 260 55nm along with the MCW80.  The Thermalright kit didn't include the heatsink for the NV102, though I thought it did.  I resorted to using a spare heatsink from an Arctic Cooling Accerlero L2.  *Does anyone know if the heatsink I have on my NV102 is sufficient enough to cool it ?*  I did run 10 minutes of Kombuster and my GPU only got to 48C (keep in mind my room is ~77F, I don't have my AC on right now).  I felt the heatsinks on the card and the NV102 heatsink doesn't feel as hot to the touch as the RAM/VRM/Mosfet/PWM heatsinks on this GPU.

Onto the photos - 

































































*Loop goes like this - Pump --> Rad --> GPU --> CPU*

I'm still having a hard time getting all the air out of my loop.  I've had my MCP655 pump hooked up to a secondary power supply.  I've been turning my pump on/off along with moving my radiator around and flicking tubing to get air bubbles to move.  Almost all of my air bubbles are staying in between my GPU and CPU Block.  Once I get air bubbles to the segment of tubing going to the inlet of the pump, I switch off my pump, and the air bubbles make their way out of the loop through the segment off the Y fitting.






*Does anyone have any suggestions for getting air out of my loop?*  I tried to describe it the best I can.


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## JrRacinFan (Sep 19, 2010)

How full is your fill line when pump is off? Your going to need to cap it off though, pressure does also work in the fill line too so if you contain the pressure at least the bubbles wont travel through. 

Fans: I will say it again, put them in pull.


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## Ross211 (Sep 19, 2010)

JrRacinFan said:


> How full is your fill line when pump is off? Your going to need to cap it off though, pressure does also work in the fill line too so if you contain the pressure at least the bubbles wont travel through.
> 
> Fans: I will say it again, put them in pull.



My segment off the Y-Fitting that has the fillport fills almost to the cap whenever the pump is off.  When I turn the pump on, the level goes to about halfway on the segment with the fillport off the Y-Fitting.  

If I cap the segment off the Y-Fitting that has the fillport I won't be able to get the last of my air out.  I'm trying to burp the air out my loop through this method, but it doesn't seem to be working.  I seem to keep getting air in between in the segment between my CPU and GPU Block.

I think eventually I'm going to get two more 120MM fans and put them on the back of the rad for a push/pull setup.  I'm not doubting putting the two 120MM fans I have right now in a pull config won't be better, I'm just lazy and don't want to re mount my rad box.


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## Ross211 (Jan 4, 2011)

*This thread ain't dead yet !*

I finally got around to adding two 120MM fans to my radiator.  There isn't much difference audibly with this setup.  I haven't tested temps yet but I'm betting these added fans will chop a few degrees off load temps.











Unfortunately the MCW80 GPU block won't fit GTX 570 unless you mod the surface of the block or mod the stock VRM / RAM heatsink plate on the card.  At this point I don't really want to mess with it so you might see a used MCW80 block in the F/S section sometime soon.






I scored a Scythe Kama Bay from a local friend - this thing works great for the K-62.  I'm going to be adding a medium speed Yate Loon with UV Blue housing to it, I can't wait to see it with the stock 140MM Lian-Li fan.


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## PopcornMachine (Jan 4, 2011)

Looks good.  Forgot about this thread.  Glad you stuck to it.

Always appreciate seeing pictures of what others are doing with their 'puters.


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## 20mmrain (Jan 4, 2011)

Welcome to the WC club Bud.... I too Just added my First Loop... Here are some Pics bud.... 

BTW How did that rear RAD mount Bracket work out? I am considering picking one up.


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## Ross211 (Jan 4, 2011)

That is one beast system right there 20mmrain, I wish I had the effort and skill to do custom sleeving.  

The radbox has worked out great thus far, except for the screws that mount the outer housing of the radbox over the inner shell.  They seem far too small for what they will hold, so I've added zip ties on each side in case the last one gives.  The screw hole on the left side of my radbox has stripped out and I've been careful with it.


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