# Project WaterFall -- A water cooling project log by Phenom



## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 16, 2012)

*Operation Losing Water Cooling Virginity Project*

Losing Phenoms Water Cooling Virginity Project Log​






As many of you may know if you have check my What made you go Water Cooling? thread that I am going to make the switch to water cooling. I have chosen to Water cool just my GTX680 for now, as my 2500k doesn't break 50c in games at 4.5GHZ. My GTX680 at 1275mhz core hits 68 and even if it is a Evga Signature 2 with the dual fan cooler it gets a bit loud then I would like. And Id like the temps a bit lower to push it even further without it throttling from Nvidia's lame ass dynamic clocks. 

So lets get too it. Below is my list of water cooling parts for this project.







I have recieved the pump already. Thanks to bmaverick for the awesome pricing of a DDC-1T pump.

And now for the loop plan. Sorry if some of the writing and drawing is hard to see. Just look closely 








Stay tuned. Rest of the parts will be ordered either before the 25th or on the 25th. Thanks for checking it out. Im pretty stoked. Never done water before. Always wanted too, but funds were never available.​


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## erocker (Oct 16, 2012)

Where's the waterfall going to go?


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 16, 2012)

erocker said:


> Where's the waterfall going to go?



Use your imagination


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## 1Kurgan1 (Oct 16, 2012)

I have to bring this up, since I am running WC in a mid tower. I don't think that top rad location will work, unless you plan to run the fans on the outside of the case. I was lucky enough to fit my rad up there with fans, but seems the HAF 922 has more room than the average mid tower, there doesn't look to be enough there to pull it off. That or could run fans inside and put the rad on the top outside.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 16, 2012)

1Kurgan1 said:


> I have to bring this up, since I am running WC in a mid tower. I don't think that top rad location will work, unless you plan to run the fans on the outside of the case. I was lucky enough to fit my rad up there with fans, but seems the HAF 922 has more room than the average mid tower, there doesn't look to be enough there to pull it off. That or could run fans inside and put the rad on the top outside.



Erocker runs the same case with the same rad, but his isn't x-flow. The rad for my case as to be 25mm thick to fit up in the top compartment of the 500r. Trust me, ive looked into this quite a bit, as I want everything internal not external mounted rads.


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## the54thvoid (Oct 16, 2012)

How you going to fill the res when the loop is built?

Just mentioning it because if your radiator to res tube is tight, you'll not have leeway to pull the dual bay res forward (if it fills from top). If it's got a front fill port you're fine.

Actually, it's still awkward as the water from the radiator will spill over the res when trying to fill, no?

I've never used a set up with a component higher than my fill point.  So I may be missing the obvious.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 16, 2012)

the54thvoid said:


> How you going to fill the res when the loop is built?
> 
> Just mentioning it because if your radiator to res tube is tight, you'll not have leeway to pull the dual bay res forward (if it fills from top). If it's got a front fill port you're fine.
> 
> ...



I have looked into that too. Ill have enough slack in the tubing to be able to slide the res out an inch or 2 to fill.


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## 1Kurgan1 (Oct 16, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Erocker runs the same case with the same rad, but his isn't x-flow. The rad for my case as to be 25mm thick to fit up in the top compartment of the 500r. Trust me, ive looked into this quite a bit, as I want everything internal not external mounted rads.



Yeah I was wondering how thick that plastic up top was. The joys of WCing a mid tower huh? I ended up buying all my stuff then thinking about it after, but somehow I fit my rad + 35mm thick fans up there... but I literally have 0 mm extra room.


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## the54thvoid (Oct 16, 2012)

Cool.  

It's also an idea to add a drain point.  It allows for worry free loop maintenance.  If you have a spare outlet from the reservoir, you can attach some tubing to that and run a length down in the bays (to keep it hidden).  You can plug it with a barb and a 1/4 threaded plug.


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## 1Kurgan1 (Oct 16, 2012)

Also for a fill point, I'm using the same Res as that, just Dual. Lower the Res down to your bottom 5.25" slots. Then pop out your DVD drive and keep a small piece of hose as a funnel. Thats how I fill mine, though it's a bit tight since I only gave myself 1 extra slot above the Res to fill, but it works like a charm.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 16, 2012)

1Kurgan1 said:


> Yeah I was wondering how thick that plastic up top was. The joys of WCing a mid tower huh? I ended up buying all my stuff then thinking about it after, but somehow I fit my rad + 35mm thick fans up there... but I literally have 0 mm extra room.



Yeah, I like mid tower cases, and willing to make it work. Im goign to have to cut a hole in the top to be able to use the x flow rad too. Theres only holes on the back side for the inlet/outlet holes. I need one in the front too. I figured the x-flow would work better with the fat megahalem heatsink in the middle. Have the tubing go around.

Oh and ive decided to go with 7/16" ID 5/8" OD tubing.


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## the54thvoid (Oct 16, 2012)

1Kurgan1 said:


> Also for a fill point, I'm using the same Res as that, just Dual. Lower the Res down to your bottom 5.25" slots. Then pop out your DVD drive and keep a small piece of hose as a funnel. Thats how I fill mine, though it's a bit tight since I only gave myself 1 extra slot above the Res to fill, but it works like a charm.



Yeah, good call.


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## HammerON (Oct 16, 2012)

Sub'd. There are always complications that arise when building a water cooled rig. Your CPU heatsink is huge and may interfere with your fans from your rad...



the54thvoid said:


> Cool.
> 
> It's also an idea to add a drain point.  It allows for worry free loop maintenance.  If you have a spare outlet from the reservoir, you can attach some tubing to that and run a length down in the bays (to keep it hidden).  You can plug it with a barb and a 1/4 threaded plug.



I am getting ready to do exactly what you describe in my 800D. I have never before (in the many water cooled rigs I have assembled) added a drain point. I always regret when I go to drain the loop that I didn't. I am going to be installing one this time


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## 1Kurgan1 (Oct 16, 2012)

Yeah, same reason I WC'd mine. I'm not a huge fan of massive towers, plus everyone and their mother WC's full towers, because it's easy.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 16, 2012)

HammerON said:


> *Sub'd. There are always complications that arise when building a water cooled rig. Your CPU heatsink is huge and may interfere with your fans from your rad...*
> 
> 
> 
> I am getting ready to do exactly what you describe in my 800D. I have never before (in the many water cooled rigs I have assembled) added a drain point. I always regret when I go to drain the loop that I didn't. I am going to be installing one this time



They don't I have had 2 fans up there and they do not get in the way.


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## HammerON (Oct 16, 2012)

Excellent!!!
I am using the same fans in my new build as well. You have them hooked-up to a fan controller I take it?


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## the54thvoid (Oct 16, 2012)

1Kurgan1 said:


> Yeah, same reason I WC'd mine. I'm not a huge fan of massive towers, plus everyone and their mother WC's full towers, because it's easy.



Heresy. 

I use the Silverstone TJ07 because it allows you to be so creative with water.  Even with the 480 rad in the base you still need to consider everything else.  I had to run my gfx cards in parallel (due to a nightmare trying to link gfx 1 to gfx 2 because of small offset in ports).

This took some thought and planning!


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 16, 2012)

HammerON said:


> Excellent!!!
> I am using the same fans in my new build as well. You have them hooked-up to a fan controller I take it?



yeah buddy. Lamptron FC-6


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## HammerON (Oct 16, 2012)

I have never used a fan contoller before and purchased the Akasa six channel fan controller. Hopefully it works well/


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 16, 2012)

HammerON said:


> I have never used a fan contoller before and purchased the Akasa six channel fan controller.



How many watts are on each channel? Do you have a link.


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## HammerON (Oct 16, 2012)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...=35543&zenid=8fff7706557d9df601611d14041b3be4

I believe it is 20W per channel...

Looks like yours has 45W per channel


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 16, 2012)

HammerON said:


> http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...=35543&zenid=8fff7706557d9df601611d14041b3be4
> 
> I believe it is 20W per channel...
> 
> Looks like yours has 45W per channel



Nope 20. Like yours.

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2747713#post2747713

Buying this PSU for loop leak/bleed testing.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 16, 2012)

What I have gotten so far!






And surprisingly my mom went to the store and got food, and a big gallon of distilled water!


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## erocker (Oct 16, 2012)

Does the radiator have the fittings on one end or one on each end?


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 16, 2012)

erocker said:


> Does the radiator have the fittings on one end or one on each end?



one on each. its X-Flow

http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...t_info&cPath=59_457_667_200&products_id=29208

Going to have to modify the case a tiny bit.


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## cadaveca (Oct 16, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> one on each. its X-Flow
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...t_info&cPath=59_457_667_200&products_id=29208
> 
> Going to have to modify the case a tiny bit.



I suggest getting the rad and tubing and checking placement first, before cutting the case.

Since you are cooling GUP only, i see this as extreme overkill, considering it'll ahve cost you about $300 to cool just the VGA. I hope you keep ti for a while, or are using universal blocks!


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 16, 2012)

cadaveca said:


> I suggest getting the rad and tubing and checking placement first, before cutting the case.
> 
> Since you are cooling GUP only, i see this as extreme overkill, considering it'll ahve cost you about $300 to cool just the VGA. I hope you keep ti for a while, or are using universal blocks!



Ill keep the 680 for a long time.way longer then I owned the 470


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 18, 2012)

Parts ordered!  should be here Saturday!


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## Phusius (Oct 18, 2012)

Wow, sexy, nice Phenom.  I don't see myself ever water cooling, air is fine for me.  I'd rather buy a Wii U or something if I had an extra 300 to blow on luxury items.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 18, 2012)

Phusius said:


> Wow, sexy, nice Phenom.  I don't see myself ever water cooling, air is fine for me.  I'd rather buy a Wii U or something if I had an extra 300 to blow on luxury items.



nintendo is making it VERY hard for me to even bother looking at that system. Nintendo lost me with the Wii.


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## Sir B. Fannybottom (Oct 18, 2012)

Change the title of this log to the fishing grounds


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## ChaoticG8R (Oct 18, 2012)

TacoTown said:


> Change the title of this log to the fishing grounds



Project GayFall errr...Waterfall sounds fine!!


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## TheMailMan78 (Oct 18, 2012)

Waterfall? .......Really?

You should call it blue torpedo death missile vagina hammer 5000.


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## MT Alex (Oct 18, 2012)

TheMailMan78 said:


> Waterfall? .......Really?
> 
> You should call it blue torpedo death missile vagina hammer 5000.



Not anymore.  Now it's Blue Crotch Missile Tide.


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## TheMailMan78 (Oct 18, 2012)

MT Alex said:


> Not anymore.  Now it's Blue Crotch Missile Tide.



That's even worse. At least Blue Crotch Missile rolls off the tongue.

Phenom are the tubes gonna be blue or just the water?


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 19, 2012)

TheMailMan78 said:


> That's even worse. At least Blue Crotch Missile rolls off the tongue.
> 
> Phenom are the tubes gonna be blue or just the water?



Yes the tubes are going to be blue. Colored water is stupid.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 19, 2012)

I will have pictures tonight. Going to Home Depot after work to get tube cutters, Blue Loc Tite(not for this project) and then my Corsair fans for the radiator come today from Amazon.

So went to home depot and I could not find tube cutters for the life of me! Going to check the True Value about 5 minutes away from my house tomorrow. Here are pictures of the fans.











More coming tomorrow when everything else gets here.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 20, 2012)

The goodies have come!





Oh and thats Norman for everyone who is in Team Speak regularly

























Unfortunately, Im goign to be busy all weekend with stuff so I wont be putting the loop together. Which is a good thing now too because the extenders I got have bad threads and dont screw into the rad like they should. They want to go in at an angle, but i dont want to strip it all out. 

I think the block is really nice. The machine quality, etc. It is also really heavy, im going to order the EK backplate i think now. 

What do you all think?


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 21, 2012)

I just ordered 90 degree fittings for my 680, dremel cutting wheels, and hose cutters. Im going to have to get a area out of my case for the other hole in the radiator to work.

Im thinking about buying some of these in the future. Single braided extension cables to complete the look.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g2/..._Braids.html?o=title_az&id=IUzosFoc&mv_pc=896


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## Irony (Oct 22, 2012)

The parts look awesome, love the waterblock. I like the cables idea too, I'm a big fan of having your cables look good. (Don't look in my case; its a hideous mess)


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## manofthem (Oct 22, 2012)

Those Corsairs fans worked well on my radiator, 3 did better than 6 yate loons in push/pull so I'm sure you'll enjoy them (they were a little loud for my taste though)

With the tubing going from your 680 back to res, are you still going from the bottom of the card?  It'll likely be easier to go from the top of the card back to res instead.


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## MT Alex (Oct 22, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Im thinking about buying some of these in the future. Single braided extension cables to complete the look.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g2/..._Braids.html?o=title_az&id=IUzosFoc&mv_pc=896



I think the long heat shrinks on those cables look nasty.  There are some decent pictures of different types in this thread  http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=172893


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## TheMailMan78 (Oct 22, 2012)

I still think you need to change the name.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 22, 2012)

Irony said:


> The parts look awesome, love the waterblock. I like the cables idea too, I'm a big fan of having your cables look good. (Don't look in my case; its a hideous mess)



haha yeah dude. The block is heavy as hell, EK literally gives you a bolt and nut to attack your I/O plate for the card to the PCB for more stability haha. Ill show what im talking about in pictures later on.



manofthem said:


> Those Corsairs fans worked well on my radiator, 3 did better than 6 yate loons in push/pull so I'm sure you'll enjoy them (they were a little loud for my taste though)
> 
> With the tubing going from your 680 back to res, are you still going from the bottom of the card?  It'll likely be easier to go from the top of the card back to res instead.



So with Ek blocks you cannot come from the top since the inlet/outlet wholes when the card is in your case can only be accessed from the bottom. But EK gives you this addon block with your cards which is ment to use for linking multiple GPUs together. But im going to use it and stick 90 degree rotary compression fittings to be cable to come from the top. SHould look pretty good. 










God on a side note, my camerica really sucks!



MT Alex said:


> I think the long heat shrinks on those cables look nasty.  There are some decent pictures of different types in this thread  http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=172893



Yeah I agree, thanks for the link.



TheMailMan78 said:


> I still think you need to change the name.




Okay everyone needs to shut up about the name. Its not the important part of this log at this point. Im not creative when it comes to project log names, but I don't give a flying fack.


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## MT Alex (Oct 22, 2012)

Yes, the tide of public opinion is making Phenom blue in the face.


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## TheMailMan78 (Oct 22, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Okay everyone needs to shut up about the name. Its not the important part of this log at this point. Im not creative when it comes to project log names, but I don't give a flying fack.



Wow that was out of the blue!


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## ChaoticG8R (Oct 23, 2012)

<Insert Another Remark about the Title/Name Here>


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 23, 2012)

Mailman might like the new title. haha


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## Nordic (Oct 23, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Losing Phenoms Water Cooling Virginity Project Log


Love it.

Dem circles...

Who are you and why have you taken my cat? Why do you call him Norman, his name is Tom.

My 550d has the same internal layout as your case so I am very interested in how this turns out. In my head I imagine I would take out the hdd cage and put the thickest 240 rad I can find there along with a slim 240 up top.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 23, 2012)

james888 said:


> Love it.
> 
> Dem circles...
> 
> ...



Real name of my cat or i should say sisters cat is Tabitha. But my friend came over for a weekend and his other friend has a cat named Norman who looks exactly like tabitha.. So he called lour cat Norman, and it just stuck. She responds to both Norman and Tabitha now haha.


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## [H]@RD5TUFF (Oct 23, 2012)

Great choice on the fans, they perform  so well, they are a little noise but a worthy trade off IMO.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 23, 2012)

[H]@RD5TUFF said:


> Great choice on the fans, they perform  so well, they are a little noise but a worthy trade off IMO.



Im running 2 in push pull on my megahalem for my CPU at like 10v. They are pretty damn quiet. I also have 4 of the AF series as case fans. Again, very quiet even at full tilt 12v


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## Irony (Oct 23, 2012)

I have 4 AF120s that aren't bad either; if I was gonna get em again I would go with the SPs though. But they just look good too, with the rings to accent the edges


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 23, 2012)

Irony said:


> I have 4 AF120s that aren't bad either; if I was gonna get em again I would go with the SPs though



The SPs and AF are meant for 2 different cooling solutions. AF is for air flow(perfect for case fans), and SP is static pressure to push air through radiators and heatsinks.


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## Irony (Oct 23, 2012)

Thats true but they're also quieter.


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## Nordic (Oct 23, 2012)

They still have good air pressure for less fpi radiators too. Just not sp air pressure.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 23, 2012)

Irony said:


> Thats true but they're also quieter.



Depends on if your talking QUiet versions or not. My SPs are noticably louder then the AFs

I am kind of wishing I got 1/2" tubing though. I'll move up to bigger tubing when I add the CPU too the loop


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## TheMailMan78 (Oct 23, 2012)

Project Blue Virginity.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 23, 2012)

I just need to get the mods to get the title to actually change.

Today im going to probably do some of the stuff I can do without putting it all in the system. Like putting the pump in the res and stuff like that. Still waiting on dremel parts to do some case hacking and such.


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## Nordic (Oct 23, 2012)

You got your loop all planned already and this isn't for your case, but the same layout. Still thought I would share.
http://imgur.com/a/fUWD7


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 23, 2012)

someone modded their 500r so much that they put a 360 rad in the front. That looks sweet. I think what im going to do though when I add my CPU to the loop. is get a thick 120mm rad like the XSPC RX120, and go 







I think what im going to do though when I add my CPU to the loop. is get a thick 120mm rad like the XSPC RX120, and do this.


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## MT Alex (Oct 23, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> I am kind of wishing I got 1/2" tubing though. I'll move up to bigger tubing when I add the CPU too the loop



Totally untrue.


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## Nordic (Oct 23, 2012)

Instead of those hdd cages you should find one of these and put it in a push pull configuration with those corsair sp's.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 23, 2012)

Im looking at the BitFenix individual sleeved extendsions, but jesus they are really long!!!


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## cadaveca (Oct 23, 2012)

Sleeve your own wires. will be far cheaper, and better electrical power.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 23, 2012)

cadaveca said:


> Sleeve your own wires. will be far cheaper, and better electrical power.



I dont trust myself doing the 24pin. And how would it be better electrical power?


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## Wrigleyvillain (Oct 23, 2012)

Hmm I have never heard that but I guess less crosstalk/noise as they arent all bunched together?

Anyway looking good so far dude! Yeah go for Real Man's 1/2" tubing . Heh it just looks better generally I think and also better flow though the temp diff would be nominal at best. Is harder to work with though in tight spaces. You also need new fittings then too. Got a kill coil or something for anti-microbial?

I think you may be the first guy I've seen who is starting with GPU cooling.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 23, 2012)

Wrigleyvillain said:


> Hmm I have never heard that but I guess less crosstalk/noise as they arent all bunched together?
> 
> Anyway looking good so far dude! Yeah go for Real Man's 1/2" tubing . Heh it just looks better generally I think and also better flow though the temp diff would be nominal at best. Is harder to work with though in tight spaces. You also need new fittings then too. Got a kill coil or something for anti-microbial?
> 
> I think you may be the first guy I've seen who is starting with GPU cooling.



next year when i upgrade procs, Ill add CPU to the loop. with a VERY fat 120mm rad.


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## erocker (Oct 23, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> someone modded their 500r so much that they put a 360 rad in the front. That looks sweet.



I don't see any HDD's. I suppose if you're running an all SSD setup, you could velcro them to the back of the mobo tray.


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## brandonwh64 (Oct 23, 2012)

Watercoolering is kind of a mute thing these days with the advances in air cooling and smaller lower votage dies but non the less I believe it looks great!


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 23, 2012)

erocker said:


> I don't see any HDD's. I suppose if you're running an all SSD setup, you could velcro them to the back of the mobo tray.



yeah thats the only thing haha! I have 4 drives haha! 1 DVD drive, and a fan controller.


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## MT Alex (Oct 23, 2012)

If I had that case and went that route, I'd just move a single cage to in front of my PSU.  It would be super easy.


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## Wrigleyvillain (Oct 23, 2012)

Well my first rad that came with a used complete loop was this fat ass XSPC 220 and, frankly, it didn't seem to make a very noticeable difference over my regular little Swiftech MCR-220 I bought later. But maybe you have some other data. Definitely harder to work with that behemoth as well, though.

And like I said, get a kill coil then you can just use distilled and not worry about algae growth, which is possible unless you change your water every couple months (gets to be a pain). Can toss in res or even inside a tube (can bend the coil in or out to fit snug).

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28871


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 27, 2012)

Today is the day. Ill have a ton of pictures coming later. I hope I have everything.


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## manofthem (Oct 27, 2012)

Wrigleyvillain said:


> And like I said, get a kill coil then you can just use distilled and not worry about algae growth, which is possible unless you change your water every couple months (gets to be a pain). Can toss in res or even inside a tube (can bend the coil in or out to fit snug).
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28871



I was so surprised when I received my first kill coil and saw how small it was. I don't know why, but I was expecting it to be bigger (thats what she said) 



MxPhenom 216 said:


> Today is the day. Ill have a ton of pictures coming later. I hope I have everything.



I hope it goes well; nothing is worse than missing something and not being to finish.  Looking forward to the pics


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## MT Alex (Oct 27, 2012)

Enough talk, put it together already.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 27, 2012)

MT Alex said:


> Enough talk, put it together already.



Working on it right now. Just took the cooler off the GPU.


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## manofthem (Oct 27, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Working on it right now. Just took the cooler off the GPU.



That's a sexy sight, isn't it?  Take some nice ones of that!


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 27, 2012)

manofthem said:


> That's a sexy sight, isn't it?  Take some nice ones of that!



yeah if i wasn't so shakey!

Jesus, Evga cooler sucks! They don't even have contact points for the VRMs and memory. My card is going to love this water! The VRMs and memory will actually run cool haha!


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## Wrigleyvillain (Oct 28, 2012)

Oh, so you know dude, you will of course be careful as all hell but will nonetheless, at some point, get some water on your GPU or mobo and/or inside your case. Hopefully nowhere critical while powered on but, in general, it happens, so just don't freak out (like I did the first time) and dry everything off and just be patient overall and all will be just fine.


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## MT Alex (Oct 28, 2012)

You still working on this?


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 28, 2012)

Yeah I didn't finish today and probably won't tomorrow.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 28, 2012)

might be looking to get one of this thing.

My card is sagging so hard!

PowerColor Professional Graphics Interface Card Su...


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## ChaoticG8R (Oct 28, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Yeah I didn't finish today and probably won't tomorrow.



And people thought my build was slow...I went from nothing to completely built...you are just doing a GPU loop


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 28, 2012)

ChaoticG8R said:


> And people thought my build was slow...I went from nothing to completely built...you are just doing a GPU loop



Oh shut up. Im not in a rush to get it done. I have other stuff going on.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 28, 2012)

Pictures from the work done yesterday.

I really need to get a nice SLR camera


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## manofthem (Oct 28, 2012)

Ok we're making progress and it's looking good!  I can see that you've got quite a few things going on there


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## MT Alex (Oct 28, 2012)

This shot turned out really nice.  
In my experience, GPUs need the spread method as opposed to the blob.  Looks like you have about 40 minutes of work left, so you should be done by Election Day.


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## Wrigleyvillain (Oct 28, 2012)

Looking good indeed.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 29, 2012)

MT Alex said:


> This shot turned out really nice.
> In my experience, GPUs need the spread method as opposed to the blob.  Looks like you have about 40 minutes of work left, so you should be done by Election Day.



Ill probably be done by wednesday night this coming week.

I just got the GPU connected with one line of tubing. Just got to mount the res/pump and connect the lines. Hardest part will be to give it enough slack in the tubing to be able to pull it out to fill.

For testing leaks for the res/pump can i just put normal water into it and then just empy it out and let dry once and can confirm their are no leaks?


----------



## manofthem (Oct 29, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> For testing leaks for the res/pump can i just put normal water into it and then just empy it out and let dry once and can confirm their are no leaks?



I wouldn't want any residue left in the loop. It likely won't take much water at all to fill your entire loop, so I wouldn't worry about waste.


----------



## MT Alex (Oct 29, 2012)

You can get a gallon of distilled water nearly anywhere for a couple of bucks, I'm not sure why you'd want to fill and bleed it twice.  Fill it, leak test, done.


----------



## Nordic (Oct 29, 2012)

MT Alex said:


> You can get a gallon of distilled water nearly anywhere for a couple of bucks, I'm not sure why you'd want to fill and bleed it twice.  Fill it, leak test, done.



Distilled water where I am is 99 cents per gallon. Couldn't be that far off in seattle.

What is that powercolor thingy you mentioned above. It is meant to prevent the card from bending or something. It did not have a very good description and many of the reviews speak as if it was gpu.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 29, 2012)

No no, Im talking about just in the res/pump. Not the whole loop.



james888 said:


> Distilled water where I am is 99 cents per gallon. Couldn't be that far off in seattle.
> 
> What is that powercolor thingy you mentioned above. It is meant to prevent the card from bending or something. It did not have a very good description and many of the reviews speak as if it was gpu.



Its a graphics card jack to prop it up so it won't sag. I was thinking about getting one for now till i get the back plate


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## MT Alex (Oct 29, 2012)

If you're that nervous about it, sure.  It's not a Steinway.


----------



## Nordic (Oct 29, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Its a graphics card jack to prop it up so it won't sag. I was thinking about getting one for now till i get the back plate


I plan on getting a backplate for my 7970. Dwood on OCN makes custom back plates for $20ish and I was thinking about getting one of those and some thermal pads. The backplate for rigidness and the thermal pads because they can't hurt.


----------



## HammerON (Oct 29, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> No no, Im talking about just in the res/pump. Not the whole loop.
> 
> 
> 
> Its a graphics card jack to prop it up so it won't sag. I was thinking about getting one for now till i get the back plate



You should leak test the whole loop. Just leave the 24-pin unplugged from the motherboard and short the 24-pin to start the PSU. This will allow you to leak test and not have to worry about shorting your system out
Do not use regular water from the tap! As others have stated, distilled water is cheap and should be used.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 29, 2012)

Should I be worried about how much my card flexes? Or is this a pretty normal thing when putting a waterblock on a video card?


----------



## t_ski (Oct 29, 2012)

Flexes as in dips down at an angle, or flexes as is bends in the middle?  Sagging is normal due to the increased weight, but bending in the middle is bad, possibly due to incorrect mounting pressure or incorrect mounting.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 29, 2012)

t_ski said:


> Flexes as in dips down at an angle, or flexes as is bends in the middle?  Sagging is normal due to the increased weight, but bending in the middle is bad, possibly due to incorrect mounting pressure or incorrect mounting.



This is what it looks like. The card before would bend slightly from the middle because of the EVGA shitty cooler that only had 4 screws around the GPU and none to the GPU I/O backplate etc so it would just pull it down from the middle. And I think the PCB has kind of just taken that form from getting hot and sagging because of it. But take a look at this picture, as thats what it looks like currently 







Other then that. Ive decided to complete all the system cabling now before getting the res/pump all connected so that none of it is in the way. Just got to connect fan cabling and DVD drive.


----------



## [H]@RD5TUFF (Oct 30, 2012)

Coming along nicely!


----------



## MT Alex (Oct 30, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> This is what it looks like. The card before would bend slightly from the middle because of the EVGA shitty cooler that only had 4 screws around the GPU and none to the GPU I/O backplate etc so it would just pull it down from the middle. And I think the PCB has kind of just taken that form from getting hot and sagging because of it. But take a look at this picture, as thats what it looks like currently
> 
> 
> http://img.techpowerup.org/121029/DSCN2394.jpg
> ...



Don't sweat things so much.  You can reduce a bunch of your card sag by using the tubing that goes to the res to hold it up, and maybe even shorten your run to your rad.  Most people don't notice the sag as much because the card doesn't sit in the case for days not fully plumbed.  In a pinch, you can even fix your cabling to help hold your card up.  You can see examples of both methods in my case, the tubing from the cpu, and making sure my cables aren't pulling down on the card.

You're off to a good start, and are gonna be stoked before you know it.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 30, 2012)

MT Alex said:


> Don't sweat things so much.  You can reduce a bunch of your card sag by using the tubing that goes to the res to hold it up, and maybe even shorten your run to your rad.  Most people don't notice the sag as much because the card doesn't sit in the case for days not fully plumbed.  In a pinch, you can even fix your cabling to help hold your card up.  You can see examples of both methods in my case, the tubing from the cpu, and making sure my cables aren't pulling down on the card.
> 
> You're off to a good start, and are gonna be stoked before you know it.



ah Alex, the person I wanted to talk too. So if you look at the picture again, look at the fitting of the GPU. See the gap in the fitting there. Is that okay, it won't screw on any further. Its the same way with the other fittings that have tubing running. I figured it was suppose to be like that and if its hard to screw on it means is pushing on the tubing and making it secure.


----------



## MT Alex (Oct 30, 2012)

The fitting looks fine, there is usually a stripe that shows, they don't go completely tight.  It looks like, however, that there is a gap between your front thermal pad and the vram, or there threatens to be one.  I'd cut a piece of dowel, or the outside of a ball point pen and shim the card for the time being.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 30, 2012)

MT Alex said:


> The fitting looks fine, there is usually a stripe that shows, they don't go completely tight.  It looks like, however, that there is a gap between your front thermal pad and the vram, or there threatens to be one.  I'd cut a piece of dowel, or the outside of a ball point pen and shim the card for the time being.



yeah, I know what your seeing, but its nothing. If I squeeze the block and card together they don't come together much more in that area. And its not a vram under there. its the 2 power regulators for the memory. Has a thicker thermal pad then the rest too.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 31, 2012)

here are some pictures of the last 2 days of work ive done. nothing too drastic at all, but just finished all the cabling. Only thing left is connecting the tubing to the pump/res assembly and picking up some water.







Cabling for the fan controller and drive is much cleaner this time around compared to before  Ill improve it even more when I go at it again when I get single braided sleeving. Im am VERY OCD about cable management. Nothing is good enough haha. I always think of better ways to route cables.


----------



## [H]@RD5TUFF (Oct 31, 2012)

Almost there! Keep it up!


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 31, 2012)

[H]@RD5TUFF said:


> Almost there! Keep it up!



Im starting to get pretty stoked!


----------



## MT Alex (Oct 31, 2012)

Not stoked enough to finish it.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 31, 2012)

MT Alex said:


> Not stoked enough to finish it.



No I am, just busy with school. Ive been stressing over my math class. Calculus is a bitch.


----------



## de.das.dude (Oct 31, 2012)

sub


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 31, 2012)

I think if I like water cooling enough, next year im going to get a Switch 810 case or a Corsair Full tower.


----------



## Nordic (Oct 31, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> I think if I like water cooling enough, next year im going to get a Switch 810 case or a Corsair Full tower.



You could put an alphacool monster where your hdd's are and it you will have plenty of cooling power.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 31, 2012)

james888 said:


> You could put an alphacool monster where your hdd's are and it you will have plenty of cooling power.



yeahhhhh, then where do the HDD go, and Id have to dremel away some of te 5.25" bay at the bottom.


----------



## Nordic (Oct 31, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> yeahhhhh, then where do the HDD go, and Id have to dremel away some of te 5.25" bay at the bottom.



I thought it would fit. Hmm... I measured wrong. I myself have 1 hdd and could fit it in the 5.25 bay. The ssd could be velcroed behind the motherboard tray or elsewhere too.


----------



## HammerON (Oct 31, 2012)

Looking good
Now connect your last hose, leak test and get her running!!!


----------



## Irony (Oct 31, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> I think if I like water cooling enough, next year im going to get a Switch 810 case or a Corsair Full tower.



I say switch 810. Its an awesome case, so mush room for rads. And it comes in lots of awesome colors too


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Oct 31, 2012)

Irony said:


> I say switch 810. Its an awesome case, so mush room for rads. And it comes in lots of awesome colors too



Yeah I know. Only thing I don't like about it is the mass amount of Plastic on the outside.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 1, 2012)

With compression fittings is is mandatory to have the hose go all the way on to point its flush to the end of the fitting? Because the line from the res to the top rad isn't flush all the way at the top because of the angle. im hoping it wont cause a leak and that the screw on part is pushing on the tubing enough so it won't.


----------



## erocker (Nov 1, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> With compression fittings is is mandatory to have the hose go all the way on to point its flush to the end of the fitting?



That is the way it should be. As long as there is enough tubing that goes over the barb and it's sealed, it's ok. Obviously you will want to do a leak test first with supplying your pump with power and running it a while. Just stuff towels/paper towels everywhere.


----------



## brandonwh64 (Nov 1, 2012)

Phenom, You are doing a great job. What all you have left?


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 1, 2012)

brandonwh64 said:


> Phenom, You are doing a great job. What all you have left?



Connecting the last 2 hoses to the res/pump assembly. Then getting distilled water, hopefully doing that tomorrow and running the leak tests then I should be completely done. Im going to take a video with my phone during the leak tests and post it. 

What im getting at is fill the res fully power on the pump and keep the res full till you don't see the level of water drop anymore?


----------



## erocker (Nov 1, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Connecting the last 2 hoses to the res/pump assembly. Then getting distilled water, hopefully doing that tomorrow and running the leak tests then I should be completely done. Im going to take a video with my phone during the leak tests and post it.
> 
> What im getting at is fill the res fully power on the pump and keep the res full till you don't see the level of water drop anymore?



Pretty much! Just don't let the pump run dry, it's not good for them.


----------



## eidairaman1 (Nov 1, 2012)

erocker said:


> Pretty much! Just don't let the pump run dry, it's not good for them.



just like firing  weapons without ammunition


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 1, 2012)

erocker said:


> Pretty much! Just don't let the pump run dry, it's not good for them.



I can keep the little fill hole cap off the res during this process right so I can poor water in quickly if need be. Do the pumps suck the water very fast?


----------



## erocker (Nov 1, 2012)

kinda fast. It's good to have a small funnel. Fill slowly, but not too slow.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 1, 2012)

erocker said:


> kinda fast. It's good to have a small funnel. Fill slowly, but not too slow.



Yeah ill fill it about about the speed that I feel my race bike with coolant.


----------



## MT Alex (Nov 1, 2012)

Yup, pretty damn fast.  I usually end up cycling the power switch on the pump's psu, it's damn hard to fill and leave the pump running, I let a 655 suck air for a few seconds that way.  Anymore, I usually fill the res and then tip the case some, and try to get a bit of water into the rad and lines.  Then I fill the res, cycle the pump till the res gets low, fill the res....on and on.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 1, 2012)

MT Alex said:


> Yup, pretty damn fast.  I usually end up cycling the power switch on the pump's psu, it's damn hard to fill and leave the pump running, I let a 655 suck air for a few seconds that way.  Anymore, I usually fill the res and then tip the case some, and try to get a bit of water into the rad and lines.  Then I fill the res, cycle the pump till the res gets low, fill the res....on and on.



Well this should be interesting. With my luck lately, ill fuck something up. Ill probalby use the small funnel i use for changing oil in my bikes. Ill run it through the dish washer before hand to get all the oil cleaned off.


----------



## copenhagen69 (Nov 1, 2012)

>




Now that is awesome ... Now that ODD's are not needing too much anymore, that is a great idea by that person!


Yours WC setup looks pretty good so far, keep it up!


----------



## cadaveca (Nov 1, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Well this should be interesting. With my luck lately, ill fuck something up. Ill probalby use the small funnel i use for changing oil in my bikes. Ill run it through the dish washer before hand to get all the oil cleaned off.



You took so long you should have just bought like 8 jugs of water, filled the kitchen sink, and stuff the block, the hose, the rad, all of it in the sink, and filled it that way. 

Would been dry by now, ready to rock.



At the same time, I'm glad you are not rushing it.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 1, 2012)

cadaveca said:


> You took so long you should have just bought like 8 jugs of water, filled the kitchen sink, and stuff the block, the hose, the rad, all of it in the sink, and filled it that way.
> 
> Would been dry by now, ready to rock.
> 
> ...



Thats the thing, especially with doing something like this, I don't rush stuff when it comes to my own computer, well computers in general, unless someone needs a computer built quickly.

Im in no rush to have the system up and running right now either so. might as well take that time to do this the right way.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 1, 2012)

copenhagen69 said:


> Now that is awesome ... Now that ODD's are not needing too much anymore, that is a great idea by that person!
> 
> 
> Yours WC setup looks pretty good so far, keep it up!



I want the guys cabling he has for the PSU.


----------



## t_ski (Nov 1, 2012)

Probably custom


----------



## Irony (Nov 1, 2012)

Just looks like regular single sleeved


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 1, 2012)

Irony said:


> Just looks like regular single sleeved



I wish there was someone I knew that you could send the PSU to them to have it sleeved. I don't trust myself trying to do the 24 pin.


----------



## Irony (Nov 1, 2012)

I've never sleeved myself; you pull the wires out and slide the sleeving on and then heat shrink them right? For the 24 pin are you just afraid of getting the wires mixed up when youre done, or what?


----------



## manofthem (Nov 1, 2012)

I did my own sleeving, having never attempted before, and it wasn't that bad. I really could have used a tool to get the pins out instead of a staple lol (that was the hardest part), but I used what I had. The 24pin was fun, just do 1 at a time. I do wish I has opened the PSU to bring the sleeving into the casing, as oppose stopping it right outside. Eh. Don't use a hair dryer, use a heat gun!


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 1, 2012)

manofthem said:


> I did my own sleeving, having never attempted before, and it wasn't that bad. I really could have used a tool to get the pins out instead of a staple lol (that was the hardest part), but I used what I had. The 24pin was fun, just do 1 at a time. I do wish I has opened the PSU to bring the sleeving into the casing, as oppose stopping it right outside. Eh. Don't use a hair dryer, use a heat gun!



Yeah Sleeving is pretty easy. I sleeve my fans, other cables, Just haven't done PSU cables before.


----------



## erocker (Nov 1, 2012)

Loop running yet?


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 1, 2012)

erocker said:


> Loop running yet?



Nope, Im not home right now. Work.


----------



## Wrigleyvillain (Nov 2, 2012)

That's why I don't do build logs.


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## TheMailMan78 (Nov 2, 2012)

Wrigleyvillain said:


> That's why I don't do build logs.



The way I build computers it would take longer to take pictures and post them. 

Of course I don't do anything fancy like this.


----------



## Irony (Nov 2, 2012)

TheMailMan78 said:


> The way I build computers it would take longer to take pictures and post them.



With my other case, i decided I wanted to paint it so I gutted it painted it and had it back together running in less than 4 hours. I usually like to get my build done and over with quick; but I suppose I can appreciate wanting to take your time


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## brandonwh64 (Nov 2, 2012)

Ahhh cant wait to see this thing shine! I remember P4 water loop! This thing OCed nicely!


----------



## Wrigleyvillain (Nov 2, 2012)

TheMailMan78 said:


> The way I build computers it would take longer to take pictures and post them.
> 
> Of course I don't do anything fancy like this.



My Prodigy build is probably worth one (even though they are so common) but, yeah, I need to do things in my own time and got this other project too delaying things further. Can always just post finished pics.


----------



## TheMailMan78 (Nov 2, 2012)

Wrigleyvillain said:


> My Prodigy build is probably worth one (even though they are so common) but, yeah, I need to do things on my own time and got this other project too delaying things. Can always just post finished pics.



Like I said I don't do anything fancy. Im looking forward to seeing Young Shavers build.


----------



## Wrigleyvillain (Nov 2, 2012)

Well one of mine was that I usually don't either.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 2, 2012)

My target is to have it done tonight. Just have the 2 hoses left, and leak testing to do. I hope to got I dont have leaks!

If this allows me to clock my 680 from 1275 to near 1400. Ill be happy. Right now the only thing stopping me is temps.


----------



## erocker (Nov 2, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> If this allows me to clock my 680 from 1275 to near 1400



Are people getting their 680's that high under water?! I think you'll find that heat won't be your limiting factor.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 2, 2012)

erocker said:


> Are people getting their 680's that high under water?! I think you'll find that heat won't be your limiting factor.



Theres people getting that on air. With the gigabyte and Asus cards. Irony has gotten his gigabyte GTX670 to I think 1400 haha.


----------



## Irony (Nov 2, 2012)

I can get my 670 that high on its standard gigabyte cooling.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 2, 2012)

Irony said:


> I can get my 670 that high on its standard gigabyte cooling.



Yeah, theres a guy at Bitech pushing his water cooled 680 to 1400 and +750 on memory and temps only get to 45c haha! And his is an Evga card, and I don't even thing its a Signature card so it doesn't have the extra VRM like mine.

Im still a bit surprised that Evga cooler for my card had no cooling for the VRMs or RAM.

So you getting a FX8350 Irony?


----------



## Irony (Nov 2, 2012)

Heres the pic, Its from a couple months ago:







Those clocks you're talking about are insane.

Yep, I'm gonna get an 8350 as soon as they drop under 200 probably; or as soon as I have money, whichever comes first lol


Edit: since my card can get that high, I would think your 680 should do fairly well. I don't have any temp ussues currently, gaming and benchmarks mine's never gotten hotter than 52 or so. Gotta love gigabyte for that


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 2, 2012)

Irony said:


> Heres the pic, Its from a couple months ago:
> http://i.imgur.com/hVD0H.png
> 
> 
> ...



yeah, and its probably quiet. My card got loud over 50% fan haha! and got to like 68c! This water cooling should eliminate those problems haha!


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 3, 2012)

Hey Guys!

Guess what
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.
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.
.
.
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.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
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.


















Sorry for the shitty pictures during this picture log. I shake a bit when I do computer stuff, especially new stuff like this. But its done now. I need to go grab a funnel to fill it and run some tests. That may or may not be tonight as I may be going out. But everything is connected and the above pictures show the final look. I love the way it looks. Pretty tight bend going from the res to rad haha! Next year comes full tower case, CPU added to the loop, and individually sleeved PSU.


----------



## Delta6326 (Nov 3, 2012)

Nice hows the temps doin?


----------



## manofthem (Nov 3, 2012)

Looks great!  Looking forward to some screens of temps under load!!!


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 3, 2012)

Delta6326 said:


> Nice hows the temps doin?



Its not running yet. Just connected the last hoses.


----------



## Irony (Nov 3, 2012)

Looks pretty awesome, future updates sound like they'll be great too. Are there more than 4 pictures in that post? cause thats all that's loading for me


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 3, 2012)

Irony said:


> Looks pretty awesome, future updates sound like they'll be great too. Are there more than 4 pictures in that post? cause thats all that's loading for me



No theres only 4 haha. Just got my funnel and ratio rite to pour water. My question is. How do I short the PSU. I know stick a paper clip in short the green wire with a black, but will I get shocked with just metal paper clip?


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 3, 2012)

Irony said:


> Looks pretty awesome, future updates sound like they'll be great too. Are there more than 4 pictures in that post? cause thats all that's loading for me



whoops. double post.


----------



## Irony (Nov 3, 2012)

Nope. Its DC. So not unless you have lots of water on your hands. Even then it would be tough to actually get shocked. If you're paranoid you can stick it in before you plug the psu in.

Edit:



MxPhenom 216 said:


> whoops. double post.



"Edit">"Delete"


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 3, 2012)

Irony said:


> Nope. Its DC. So not unless you have lots of water on your hands. Even then it would be tough to actually get shocked. If you're paranoid you can stick it in before you plug the psu in.



Good Idea, Looks like Im going to have to wait on the leak testing till tomorrow, I have nothing going on tomorrow anyways. Going out tonight. But its technically finished


----------



## Irony (Nov 3, 2012)

Woohoo! that only took 17 days from conception to reality. Not bad


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 3, 2012)

Irony said:


> Woohoo! that only took 17 days from conception to reality. Not bad



LOL. It would have taken 2-3 days if I wasn't working or in school.

I also want take a air compressor to it to clean out the dust before filling with water.


----------



## MT Alex (Nov 3, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> LOL. It would have taken 2-3 days if I wasn't working or in school.



2-3 hours.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 3, 2012)

MT Alex said:


> 2-3 hours.



nah, it took that much time taking the system apart and tkaing the top panel off and cutting it up.


----------



## Sir B. Fannybottom (Nov 3, 2012)

My god phenom, my 80 year old grandfather can build a pc faster than that. Just build the damn thing already! Also, take pics


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 3, 2012)

TacoTown said:


> My god phenom, my 80 year old grandfather can build a pc faster than that. Just build the damn thing already! Also, take pics



Its done. Just got to run the leak tests. I can build a computer in 30 minutes. I just haven't had much time in the last week and a half to get the loop made. Work and School, kind of a higher priority then this.

And I have posted pictures, maybe look above, and every other page back.


----------



## Wrigleyvillain (Nov 3, 2012)

Christ give him break...and it seems he hasn't even run into any "design" or equipment problems like I usually do (and have again now with the Prodigy) resulting in further delays cause I discover that I have to order more shit. Like an angled fitting or two or another foot of tubing cause I cut my last strip a third of an inch too short or something.

Good job man...hope all runs well.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 3, 2012)

Wrigleyvillain said:


> Christ give him break...and it seems he hasn't even run into any "design" or equipment problems like I usually do (and have again now with the Prodigy) resulting in further delays cause I discover that I have to order more shit. Like an angled fitting or two or another foot of tubing cause I cut my last strip a third of an inch too short or something.
> 
> Good job man...hope all runs well.



Yeah im scared to power it on haha!


----------



## manofthem (Nov 3, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Yeah im scared to power it on haha!



Power up just the watercooling stuff and not the components at first, just in case (paperclip tricky).  Get the pump going and get the res filled.  After you ensure no leaks, then power up the system 

Can't wait!!!


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 3, 2012)

I think theres something wrong. Water isn't really being sucked out of the res. its just kind of trickling down one of the lines. Theres a lot of bubbles.

Okay, now its going, but theres a lot of bubbles. How long should I run it?


----------



## erocker (Nov 3, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> I think theres something wrong. Water isn't really being sucked out of the res. its just kind of trickling down one of the lines. Theres a lot of bubbles.
> 
> Okay, now its going, but theres a lot of bubbles. How long should I run it?



Until there are no bubbles left. Once full, just keep running it until all the noise from the air stops. You can try tapping on the radiator with the palm of your hand to keep the air bubbles moving. You can also try tipping your case in various directions... Just make sure you don't let water escape the fill hole.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 3, 2012)

erocker said:


> Until there are no bubbles left. Once full, just keep running it until all the noise from the air stops. You can try tapping on the radiator with the palm of your hand to keep the air bubbles moving. You can also try tipping your case in various directions... Just make sure you don't let water escape the fill hole.



Im assuming this takes a while. Its been going for like 10 minutes. Itll get loud and shoot water and bumbles through the loop.


----------



## erocker (Nov 3, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Im assuming this takes a while. Its been going for like 10 minutes. Itll get loud and shoot water and bumbles through the loop.



Yeah, that's normal. What I do is try to catch the bubbles as they are going through the reservoir so they'll bleed out by squeezing the tubing or holding the case at an angle.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 3, 2012)

erocker said:


> Yeah, that's normal. What I do is try to catch the bubbles as they are going through the reservoir so they'll bleed out by squeezing the tubing or holding the case at an angle.



Jesus. This is harder then I thought. If I just leave it running for an hour will it figure itself out?


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## erocker (Nov 3, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Jesus. This is harder then I thought. If I just leave it running for an hour will it figure itself out?



Yes, maybe longer. You can try doing the things I mentioned to help speed it up.


----------



## manofthem (Nov 3, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Jesus. This is harder then I thought. If I just leave it running for an hour will it figure itself out?



I usually tilt the case different ways, to help get bubbles out of the gpu block. And any other areas.  You can usually hear the air trapped inside.  They may work their way out eventually but you want to expedite the process. When it's really quiet, it'll mean the air is most likely out 

Edit: just saw erocker already mentioned case tilting, lol. Good call!


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 3, 2012)

manofthem said:


> I usually tilt the case different ways, to help get bubbles out of the gpu block. And any other areas.  You can usually hear the air trapped inside.  They may work their way out eventually but you want to expedite the process. When it's really quiet, it'll mean the air is most likely out
> 
> Edit: just saw erocker already mentioned case tilting, lol. Good call!



should I have the fill whole closed while its doing this. I still have hte funnel in it.


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## manofthem (Nov 3, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> should I have the fill whole closed while its doing this. I still have hte funnel in it.



If you're going to be moving and/or tilting the case, you might want to close the fill whole to avoiding spilling.  I tilted my case pretty good since I had a lot of air trapped in all my stuff, so I had the cap closed on my res.  You may not have too much work to do, but I think I'd close it just in case.


----------



## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 3, 2012)

manofthem said:


> If you're going to be moving and/or tilting the case, you might want to close the fill whole to avoiding spilling.  I tilted my case pretty good since I had a lot of air trapped in all my stuff, so I had the cap closed on my res.  You may not have too much work to do, but I think I'd close it just in case.



Its running pretty well right now. not as much big surges of bubbles. I just here the ones in the rad and block. Im going to have to turn the pump down a bit. i dont like the sound it makes all that much haha. Good thing its being connected to fan controller.

its coming along pretty well. Im going to upload a 2 minute video here in a sec.


----------



## manofthem (Nov 3, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Its running pretty well right now. not as much big surges of bubbles. I just here the ones in the rad and block. Im going to have to turn the pump down a bit. i dont like the sound it makes all that much haha. Good thing its being connected to fan controller.
> 
> its coming along pretty well. Im going to upload a 2 minute video here in a sec.



Tilting the case and bumping the rad should get rid of the air trapped, as well as in the block.  It may take a bit.  My blocks are acrylic so I could actually see the air trapped inside, and it took a bit of wiggling/bumping/tilting to get them all out 

Looking forward to the video!


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## erocker (Nov 3, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Its running pretty well right now. not as much big surges of bubbles. I just here the ones in the rad and block. Im going to have to turn the pump down a bit. i dont like the sound it makes all that much haha. Good thing its being connected to fan controller.
> 
> its coming along pretty well. Im going to upload a 2 minute video here in a sec.



What kind of sound is it making? Is it just air circulating around in it? Once all of the air is out you should be able to turn it all the way up without much noise.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 3, 2012)

erocker said:


> What kind of sound is it making? Is it just air circulating around in it? Once all of the air is out you should be able to turn it all the way up without much noise.



It just sounds like a fan.


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## erocker (Nov 3, 2012)

I never had a pump sound like a fan before. :\


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 3, 2012)

erocker said:


> I never had a pump sound like a fan before. :\



Its like a audible hum.

Heres the video.

Evga GTX680 Signature 2 Loop bleeding tests - YouT...


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## erocker (Nov 3, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Heres the video.



Looks and sounds good. I think once everything is running in your rig, you won't notice the pump sound too much. I would keep it running at it's highest setting. If you're not noticing a lot of air being run through the loop and no leaks, I'd go ahead and get it all running. The air will work it's way out, just leave the cap a little loose for a while so the air can escape.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 3, 2012)

erocker said:


> Looks and sounds good. I think once everything is running in your rig, you won't notice the pump sound too much. I would keep it running at it's highest setting. If you're not noticing a lot of air being run through the loop and no leaks, I'd go ahead and get it all running. The air will work it's way out, just leave the cap a little loose for a while so the air can escape.



Yeah I think its full bled now.


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## erocker (Nov 3, 2012)

Still.. Leave the cap loose for a few days. I had a cap blow off my old reservoir from pressure building up.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 3, 2012)

erocker said:


> Still.. Leave the cap loose for a few days. I had a cap blow off my old reservoir from pressure building up.



ohh jesus okay!

Aright its all connected and running. Sounds like theres still air in the loop though. seems like when ever turns off then turns it back on theres bubbles

idle temps are at 24 degrees C lol.


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## t_ski (Nov 3, 2012)

One tip I find helps it to turn on the pump until it fills with air, then turn it off.  Wait a few seconds and turn it on again, and repeat as necessary.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 3, 2012)

So just played some Warfighter and temps are definitely lower. hovered around 48-49c

Guy on youtube has his around 35c I think. Its probably got a different rad though.

Thats about 20 degrees cooler. And thats just core temp. Im sure the VRMs and Memory are a lot cooler as well


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## manofthem (Nov 3, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> So just played some Warfighter and temps are definitely lower. hovered around 48-49c
> 
> Guy on youtube has his around 35c I think. Its probably got a different rad though.
> 
> Thats about 20 degrees cooler. And thats just core temp. Im sure the VRMs and Memory are a lot cooler as well



If you still have a bit of air trapped, it could contribute to higher temps too.  Is that card overclocked at those temps?


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 3, 2012)

manofthem said:


> If you still have a bit of air trapped, it could contribute to higher temps too.  Is that card overclocked at those temps?



yeah at 1280mhz. Before on air it was up around 68-69c at same clocks, and it was a little unstable because I think VRMs and memory got way to hot on air because the cooler had no contact points for them. Only the GPU.

Theres a ton of minature bubbles in the reservior! haha


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## manofthem (Nov 3, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> yeah at 1280mhz. Before on air it was up around 68-69c at same clocks, and it was a little unstable because I think VRMs and memory got way to hot on air because the cooler had no contact points for them. Only the GPU.
> 
> Theres a ton of minature bubbles in the reservior! haha



Wow, good job!  Glad to see it's all done, no leaks, and you're looking at an awesome overclock!  You da man


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 3, 2012)

manofthem said:


> Wow, good job!  Glad to see it's all done, no leaks, and you're looking at an awesome overclock!  You da man



Thanks, Man I love it. Im eager to get a full tower and add the CPU too the loop now!


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## cdawall (Nov 3, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Thanks, Man I love it. Im eager to get a full tower and add the CPU too the loop now!



Why do you need a full tower? If I managed to stuff dual rads into an actual mini-ITX case you should be able to do the same in a mid tower 

Looks good BTW glad to see it all finished up.


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## manofthem (Nov 3, 2012)

cdawall said:


> Why do you need a full tower? If I managed to stuff dual rads into an actual mini-ITX case you should be able to do the same in a mid tower
> 
> Looks good BTW glad to see it all finished up.



Usually it's less modding and less hassle with a full tower.  your ITX build really is amazing though, impressive. 

Even with my Haf 932, I had to do slight modding to get my rad on the back on my case.  It was too tough to try and squeeze them both inside.


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## cdawall (Nov 3, 2012)

manofthem said:


> Usually it's less modding and less hassle with a full tower.  your ITX build really is amazing though, impressive.
> 
> Even with my Haf 932, I had to do slight modding to get my rad on the back on my case.  It was too tough to try and squeeze them both inside.



Oh no doubt it is easier that is why my full tower has an MCR420, 320 and 220 in it.   I can't be the norm.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 3, 2012)

I think it has to do with the fact theres way more space to work in when it comes to full towers. And to be able to stick a single triple rad inside it!


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## erocker (Nov 4, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> yeah at 1280mhz. Before on air it was up around 68-69c at same clocks, and it was a little unstable because I think VRMs and memory got way to hot on air because the cooler had no contact points for them. Only the GPU.
> 
> Theres a ton of minature bubbles in the reservior! haha



Is your pump turned all the way up? I'm pretty sure the radiator you chose is going to struggle a little bit with keeping your temps below 45c.

You can use HWiNFO64 to monitor your VRM temps.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 4, 2012)

erocker said:


> Is your pump turned all the way up? I'm pretty sure the radiator you chose is going to struggle a little bit with keeping your temps below 45c.
> 
> You can use HWiNFO64 to monitor your VRM temps.



Yeah, and yeah probably. I dont have the fans at full tilt either soo.

Regardless, temps are still WAY better! And it climbs in temperatures so much slower.


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## Wrigleyvillain (Nov 4, 2012)

Yep and makes sense as water can remove the heat from the CPU so much more efficiently and effectively.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 4, 2012)

Wrigleyvillain said:


> Yep and makes sense as water can remove the heat from the CPU so much more efficiently and effectively.



yeah its pretty sweet. It got up to 52c in Crysis 3 Alpha.


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## Irony (Nov 4, 2012)

Sounding awesome. Grr, you making me want water!


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## Nordic (Nov 4, 2012)

Irony said:


> Sounding awesome. Grr, you making me want water!



Got some cheap stuff from danger den, plus this thread, is getting me to go to water. Thanks mxphenom, thanks a lot.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 4, 2012)

Pushing the fans to 100% dropped the load temps to 45/46c haha!

Rad is probably getting saturated haha


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## manofthem (Nov 4, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> Pushing the fans to 100% dropped the load temps to 45/46c haha!
> 
> Rad is probably getting saturated haha



Those fans really work well to be honest.  I had 3 on my 360 rad, and they worked extremely well, beat out 6 med. yate loons in push/pull.  Not only did they work well, but they were very well built with nice black cabling


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 4, 2012)

manofthem said:


> Those fans really work well to be honest.  I had 3 on my 360 rad, and they worked extremely well, beat out 6 med. yate loons in push/pull.  Not only did they work well, but they were very well built with nice black cabling



Yeah, the corsair fans are the only fans I buy. regardless of situation  Innovative too, I like the colored rings.


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## Wrigleyvillain (Nov 4, 2012)

Yeah even with this little single 120mm rad I got for my Prodigy (a really good all-copper AlphaCool Nexxos ST30 but still) the 3570K doesn't get above 57C Prime 95 at 4.4Ghz (only 1.18v though but still as good if not better than my old MCR-220). Heh, actually it passes Prime at that voltage but BF3 "stopped working" so I dropped to 4.2 for now.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 4, 2012)

coming up next! 

Individual sleeved PSU with Paracord!

http://ftwpc.com/cables-and-sleeving/paracord-sleeving/black-paracord.html


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## MT Alex (Nov 4, 2012)

Glad things worked out.  I like the color of the tubing, it's a slightly different opacity and color than the standard blue.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 4, 2012)

MT Alex said:


> Glad things worked out.  I like the color of the tubing, it's a slightly different opacity and color than the standard blue.



Yeah its fricken sweet. Thanks for your help during the process.


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## Irony (Nov 4, 2012)

Yeah, it looks awesome. 

What color sleeving are you gonna go with?

Edit: Im dumb, you linked to black. Blue could be cool


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 4, 2012)

Irony said:


> Yeah, it looks awesome.
> 
> What color sleeving are you gonna go with?
> 
> Edit: Im dumb, you linked to black. Blue could be cool



Probably black and blue. Alternate


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## MT Alex (Nov 4, 2012)

I'd rather spend a full day hitting my genitals with a hammer than do that much sleeving.  Talk about boring tortuous monotony.  Besides that, it would take you a year.  Buy some extensions and be done with it, or ditch that PSU and get a full modular and have someone make a new set so you aren't voiding your warranty.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 4, 2012)

MT Alex said:


> I'd rather spend a full day hitting my genitals with a hammer than do that much sleeving.  Talk about boring tortuous monotony.  Besides that, it would take you a year.  Buy some extensions and be done with it, or ditch that PSU and get a full modular and have someone make a new set so you aren't voiding your warranty.



I like sleeving haha! I do want to get a fully modular Platinum PSU. Like the Seasonic platinums.

SeaSonic Platinum Platinum-860 860W ATX12V / EPS12...


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 4, 2012)

thinking about ditching this weak x-flow rad and getting one of these in a few weeks.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1..._Dual_120mm_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s160#blank


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## MT Alex (Nov 4, 2012)

I'm sure that will make James888 all creamy.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 4, 2012)

MT Alex said:


> I'm sure that will make James888 all creamy.



oh god Alex your sick.

Hey Alex didn't you say you had to slow down the flow of your loop when you had a mid tower? Why was that? Because i have my pump on full tilt right now.


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## MT Alex (Nov 4, 2012)

Not because of my tower size, it's because my pump has the power of 10,000 suns.  I'd slow your pump until you like the sound of it, it shouldn't matter with such a small loop with little restriction.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 4, 2012)

MT Alex said:


> Not because of my tower size, it's because my pump has the power of 10,000 suns.  I'd slow your pump until you like the sound of it, it shouldn't matter with such a small loop with little restriction.



Yeah my pump, sounds like my San Ace fans haha. I figured if you slow it down, itll slow the flow allowing the water to last in the rad longer. I really want a thick rad now though. This X-Flow rad gets saturated so fast.


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## Wrigleyvillain (Nov 4, 2012)

Agreed on the nice color of that XSPC tubing...noted.


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## manofthem (Nov 4, 2012)

Plus wih a thick rad you should be able to slow the fans down too, cutting down on noise. I have 3 GT14s (1450rpm) on my XTX360 (64mm thick), and it does pretty well. The other day I only had the fans on that rad going (had the 3 GT14s on my xspc ex360 off) while playing BF3. Both 7970s at 1050/1500 and my CPU @4.5, and the cards only hit 44/45*. I know the only rad may have helped a little but still, I think the thick rads work out nicely, given you have enough space


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 4, 2012)

manofthem said:


> Plus wih a thick rad you should be able to slow the fans down too, cutting down on noise. I have 3 GT14s (1450rpm) on my XTX360 (64mm thick), and it does pretty well. The other day I only had the fans on that rad going (had the 3 GT14s on my xspc ex360 off) while playing BF3. Both 7970s at 1050/1500 and my CPU @4.5, and the cards only hit 44/45*. I know the only rad may have helped a little but still, I think the thick rads work out nicely, given you have enough space



Yeah, I probably won't have the top on my case when I get a thick rad, If I do I will cut out a big rectangle out of the mesh for the rad to stick out of.


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## Delta6326 (Nov 5, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> coming up next!
> 
> Individual sleeved PSU with Paracord!
> 
> http://ftwpc.com/cables-and-sleeving/paracord-sleeving/black-paracord.html



I have been looking at doing Paracord, and I have been reading about FTW PC I hear is very slow now and may be stopping bossiness I may buy from this top site, they maybe the supplier to FTW PC and its cheaper.

http://www.supplycaptain.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=753&ParentCat=19

http://www.supplycaptain.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=754&ParentCat=19


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 5, 2012)

Delta6326 said:


> I have been looking at doing Paracord, and I have been reading about FTW PC I hear is very slow now and may be stopping bossiness I may buy from this top site, they maybe the supplier to FTW PC and its cheaper.
> 
> http://www.supplycaptain.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=753&ParentCat=19
> 
> http://www.supplycaptain.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=754&ParentCat=19



thanks, for that information. yeah paracord is fricking sweet! Ill probably wait till i get a platnium all modular PSU. Which will be next year I think.

Black and Royal blue would be sweet!


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## Delta6326 (Nov 5, 2012)

I just realized I'm not for sure if that paracord is the right thickness or not...


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## Nordic (Nov 5, 2012)

MT Alex said:


> I'm sure that will make James888 all creamy.



Make it on 80mm thick monsta and I just might... I am pretty set on the 120x80mm for the bottom front though. 80mm thick is just... YES! I am open to suggestions. If I could find a denser rad that isn't as thick I would definitely look into it. I am still slowing planning and browsing rads. I am currently looking at the ek rads. They are thick and have 11fpi compared to 9.6 in the alphacools. The price is so much more than the alphacools though.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 5, 2012)

james888 said:


> Make it on 80mm thick monsta and I just might... I am pretty set on the 120x80mm for the bottom front though. 80mm thick is just... YES! I am open to suggestions. If I could find a denser rad that isn't as thick I would definitely look into it. I am still slowing planning and browsing rads. I am currently looking at the ek rads. They are thick and have 11fpi compared to 9.6 in the alphacools. The price is so much more than the alphacools though.



EK rads are trash! Pretty restrictive from what ive been reading. I dont care how well the 80mm monsta rad cools, its just too big.


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## Nordic (Nov 5, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> 80mm monsta rad cools, its just too big.



So many jokes could be made off that... but... I can fit the 120mm so I will. I can't fit a 240 there without taking out my bottom 5.25 bay so... 80mm monsta it is. Combined with 2 38mm panaflo fans.

Thanks for the info on EK rads. Removing them from my thoughts as an option... now.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 5, 2012)

james888 said:


> So many jokes could be made off that... but... I can fit the 120mm so I will. I can't fit a 240 there without taking out my bottom 5.25 bay so... 80mm monsta it is. Combined with 2 38mm panaflo fans.
> 
> Thanks for the info on EK rads. Removing them from my thoughts as an option... now.



For the Monsta you dont need huge loud fans like that. the Fins are spread out you only need fans that do 1400rpm or lower.


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## MT Alex (Nov 5, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> For the Monsta you dont need huge loud fans like that. the Fins are spread out you only need fans that do 1400rpm or lower.



:shadedshu


----------



## Nordic (Nov 5, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> For the Monsta you dont need huge loud fans like that. the Fins are spread out you only need fans that do 1400rpm or lower.



I don't want thread jack this towards me here but. I got the 38mm fans for cheap and why not use them on the monsta? The monsta does have a lower fin count but does much much better with higher rpm just because it is so thick. I have literally spent a few hours of my life reading anything the internet has to say about this 80mm rad alone, not to mention other stuff. It peforms much better at 1800rpm than 1400rpm. It is just sooo thick it needs that extra oomph to make it through the rad. If you have enough fans for the monsta, it really shines or so I have read.


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## HammerON (Nov 5, 2012)

MxPhenom 216 said:


> EK rads are trash! Pretty restrictive from what ive been reading. I dont care how well the 80mm monsta rad cools, its just too big.



Good review here:
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/foru...view-triple-radiator-360-roundup-16-rads.html

I actually have a couple Swiftech rads (2x120 and a 3x120), Feser Monsta Lite 3x140 and a Koolance 4x120 that I have used in different rigs over the years. I recently purchased the EK XTX 360 just to try something else based on this review. Will be working on the build hopefully next week. Was going to use the Monsta rad, however it wouldn't fit in the 800D (great rad though).
Still have all of the other rads for backup...


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## manofthem (Nov 5, 2012)

HammerON said:


> Good review here:
> http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/foru...view-triple-radiator-360-roundup-16-rads.html
> 
> I actually have a couple Swiftech rads (2x120 and a 3x129), Fezer Monsta 3x140 and a Koolance 4x120 that I have used in different rigs over the years. I recently purchased the EK XTX 360 just to try something else based on this review. Will be working on the build hopefully next week. Was going to use the Monsta rad, however it wouldn't fit in the 800D.
> Still have all of the other rads for backup...



I'm running an EK XTX 360 right now, and I have no complaints at all with it. It does a nice job cooling.


----------



## cdawall (Nov 5, 2012)

james888 said:


> Make it on 80mm thick monsta and I just might... I am pretty set on the 120x80mm for the bottom front though. 80mm thick is just... YES! I am open to suggestions. If I could find a denser rad that isn't as thick I would definitely look into it. I am still slowing planning and browsing rads. I am currently looking at the ek rads. They are thick and have 11fpi compared to 9.6 in the alphacools. The price is so much more than the alphacools though.



Get a black ice gt stealth 30FPI great performance with high static pressure fans.












Very very thin rads and perform very very well with high static pressure fans.


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## Nordic (Nov 5, 2012)

cdawall said:


> Get a black ice gt stealth 30FPI great performance with high static pressure fans.
> 
> http://img.techpowerup.org/121026/20121026_113739.jpg
> 
> ...



Thank you. Was already looking as some and was about to make a post about them in my thread. Any further discussion involving my future loop or rad suggestions for me I would like to direct to my thread here.


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## Wrigleyvillain (Nov 5, 2012)

For the record I am very impressed with my thin Alphacool single 120mm ST30 seeing as how it's, well, thin and a single 120mm.


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 6, 2012)

New list of parts coming later this month.

AlphaCool NexXxos UT60 240mm rad (This blackice rad sucks. I dont want to run 2500rpm fans that sound like a jet engine to get good temps. This UT60 will be much better as its a lot thicker and its double pass)
another Bitspower 90 degree fitting
5 more feet of tubing


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## MxPhenom 216 (Nov 16, 2012)

I think I have chosen on Full tower case to get when I want to add the CPU to the loop, and then have an internally mounted 360 rad.

NZXT Phantom 820 is what I have chosen I think. I love the way it looks. Its simple look, but not as boring looking as the Corsair 700/800D, and some good features, and awesome water cooling capability. Ill stick a Alphacool UT60 360 rad at the top


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## Wrigleyvillain (Nov 16, 2012)

Sounds like a plan.


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## Irony (Nov 17, 2012)

Awesome, cant wait. I was just looking at that rad, was gonna suggest it since you were considering a bigger case


----------

