# Hailea Ultra Titan HC 250 WaterChiller



## FireFox (Jan 10, 2017)

Hi Lads.

A few years ago i bought a Hailea Ultra Titan HC-150  Waterchiller but i never used it, it was in it's box all the time, i never opened it, i bought it to cool my ex 3770K which was Overclocked at 5.0GHz 1.37V, it was my best CPU ever, @Nicholas Peyton came with his Waterchiller idea and then i though because i have a Chiller laying around maybe i should give it a try too, so a few weeks ago i sold the Ultra Titan HC-150A and bought a Hailea Ultra Titan HC-250A, the reason why i didn't use the first Chiller was because i delided the 3770K and temps dropped 20c, so i decided not to build the Waterchiller setup.

*The Chiller*





















*The original fittings*


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## FireFox (Jan 10, 2017)

The G 1/4 adapter.









 




 






Thanks for watching.

More updates coming soon.


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## FireFox (Jan 10, 2017)

*EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4*







*PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ Brilliant UV Blue RETAIL 3m*









*Innovatek protect IP*






*The right place?*









Thanks for watching.

More updates coming soon.


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## damian246 (Jan 10, 2017)

look huge, and does it have the desired effect? 
I mean the size almost quadrupled.


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## FireFox (Jan 10, 2017)

damian246 said:


> look huge, and does it have the desired effect?
> I mean the size almost quadrupled.



It is not ready yet because i am waiting for the Coolant, looks big it is not.


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## damian246 (Jan 10, 2017)

Well keep us updated


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## Nicholas Peyton (Jan 10, 2017)

wow it looks the same size as mine, although mine weighs 22kg (just checked)

Mine isn't that big (now that I'm used to it) but when I first got it, I thought it was massive.

I'm watching you-tube videos and looking at electrical wiring diagrams,
for 'Ranco Temperature Controllers'; trying to figure out, how to modify mine for sub-zero.  And scratching my head lol...

I need to replace the Stock Temperature Panel on the front (like on Knoxx29's picture) with a new Temperature Controller to enable it to go below 3 degrees C.

Anyway good pictures Knoxx, keep us updated  Very interested


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## FireFox (Jan 10, 2017)

damian246 said:


> Well keep us updated



I will.

The Coolant will be delivered tomorrow


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## FireFox (Jan 10, 2017)

Nicholas Peyton said:


> I'm trying to figure out how to modify mine for subzero



Easy, you just have to modify the temp sensor.


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## the54thvoid (Jan 10, 2017)

Knoxx29 said:


> Easy, you just have to modify the temp sensor.



I'm sure he'd prefer a step by step instruction.  Go on, help him out - he did 'motivate you' after all.


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## FireFox (Jan 10, 2017)

the54thvoid said:


> I'm sure he'd prefer a step by step instruction.  Go on, help him out - he did 'motivate you' after all.



That is why i am looking for the Thread where i read about the mod.


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## Nicholas Peyton (Jan 10, 2017)

I might open it up tonight and see if I can locate the thermometer.

It would be easier than trying to install a new controller.

Then I could take the water temperature using a probe connected to my fan controller instead. Or even use GPU temp to measure it.  GPU temp seems to match water temp at idle to within 1 degree.. or within 10 degrees at full 275w load.

Might need to drain loop first, as the thermometer is probably in the tank with coolant..


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## FireFox (Jan 10, 2017)

Nicholas Peyton said:


> I might open it up tonight and see if I can locate the thermometer.
> 
> It would be easier than trying to install a new controller.
> 
> Then I could take the water temperature using a probe connected to my fan controller instead. Or even use GPU temp to measure it.  GPU temp seems to match water temp at idle to within 1 degree.. or within 10 degrees at full 275w load.



I am looking to see what i find.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?280406-Hailea-HC-500A-waterchiller-controller


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## Nicholas Peyton (Jan 10, 2017)

Yup I've been on that one.

This is the one I was looking at tonight: (and they mention replacing the controller with a ranco temperature controller).  I checked the Ranco Temperature Controller details on Ebay and it allows -30 settings.

http://midlifegamers.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=1558

But accessing the thermometer and moving it to a different location (outside the unit) would potentially be a much easier, temporary solution. I believe the wire its on is a 30cm (so I've read).

Wishing I'd done this now, before I'd filled it lol.

But last month; I was too excited to get it set up.  Didn't want to risk taking it apart and breaking anything before I'd even checked to see if it was working. (grabbed it on Ebay at an amazing price 2nd hand)


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## FireFox (Jan 10, 2017)

Nicholas Peyton said:


> http://midlifegamers.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=1558



That is what i was looking for


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## damian246 (Jan 10, 2017)

Nicholas Peyton said:


> I'm watching you-tube videos and looking at electrical wiring diagrams,
> for 'Ranco Temperature Controllers'; trying to figure out, how to modify mine for sub-zero.  And scratching my head lol...
> 
> I need to replace the Stock Temperature Panel on the front (like on Knoxx29's picture) with a new Temperature Controller to enable it to go below 3 degrees C.



I'm pretty sure you could watch you tube videos with out sub zero cooler application around the CPU. 
Did you notice any feel-able difference between super cooled PC and before?


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## Nicholas Peyton (Jan 10, 2017)

Yup 

And this is what he's said (Pulse88)... I'll try and quote it here:

-----------------------------------------------------------------
What you nead for mod is:
-ranco etc-111000-000 controller(singlestage) easy find on ebay.
Next step its controller installation
-First 1650cp electricity diagram
1.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



Dont read what i have whrite on electricity manual its wrong
2.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



3.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



1.Blue/(white in my controller) is com cable (L in diagram)
2.brown/brown is 240v (ac1 or N cable in diagram)
3. Red/(Black in my controller) is CL,fan etc (evry ting that neads controlling)
- As seen in picture 2 and 3 you nead to put a cable between 240v and C
-If you have wired wrong the chiller wont start.
-----------------------------------------------------------------

/\ That is instructions for the Hailea HC 1000a (bigger than mine or yours) the 1 full Horse Power Unit.

But I figure the wiring principles can't be *that* different.


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## Nicholas Peyton (Jan 10, 2017)

damian246 said:


> I'm pretty sure you could watch you tube videos with out sub zero cooler application around the CPU.
> Did you notice any feel-able difference between super cooled PC and before?



Not at all, its just a hobby... 

*Subzero* is always the "dream that's never quite possible" when you begin water cooling.

So actually managing it, using your EK water cooling equipment, for example.. is kind of exciting.

I could go and play a game I suppose, lol...


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## FireFox (Jan 10, 2017)

Nicholas Peyton said:


> I could go and play a game I suppose, lol...


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## Nicholas Peyton (Jan 10, 2017)

I think he might be using the Ranco Temperature Controller as the actual power source for Chiller (like how it gets its power normally by plugging into Socket in the Wall).
and the Chiller's regular plug is just plugged into a surge protector that has been wired up to the Ranco Controller.

For that to work; he'd have to short out the Chiller's stock Temp Controller/circuit board, to force the Chiller to *always* run when power is switched on.

That would also be another way of doing it if the thermometer isn't accessible.  I wouldn't even need the ranco controller.. I could just bridge the connections on the Chiller's stock circuit board, to bypass the thermostat completely.  Then as soon as I hit the power (switch at socket in the wall) the chiller switches on.... regardless of temperature

*Like this:*



By bridging the two connections circled in pink (brown wire).


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## FireFox (Jan 10, 2017)

@Nicholas Peyton 

Forget that i will try subzero temps, i don't want to have anything to do with it, well, at least until some manufacturer make waterproof Hardwares


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## Nicholas Peyton (Jan 10, 2017)

lol when I first got the chiller I was happy to be hitting these amazing temps.

But two weeks later I got the "subzero bug".. I knew I already owned most of the equipment to actually do it.. the only thing stopping me going subzero now, was *me*.....

That's when I decided I *have* to do it.

Just to say I did it once, in life.. lol

Knoxx maybe you will, probably you won't.. but maybe in two weeks you will get the bug, like me.. lol -- won't be happy with 3c anymore.. you'll want more  lol -- _maybe ;-)_


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## FireFox (Jan 10, 2017)

Have you tested your room temperatures with the Chiller on and off to see how much heat the Chiller generate?


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## Nicholas Peyton (Jan 10, 2017)

Knoxx29 said:


> Have you tested your room temperatures with the Chiller on and off to see how much heat the Chiller generate?



I've not recorded the results.... but with the chiller switched on for an hour last night.. it made the temperature in the room rise a good couple of degrees.. its like a small heater lol...

I just open the windows wide open for a few minutes to bring indoor temp back in line...


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## Mr.Scott (Jan 10, 2017)

Nicholas Peyton said:


> Then as soon as I hit the power (switch at socket in the wall) the chiller switches on.... regardless of temperature
> 
> *Like this:*
> View attachment 82911
> By bridging the two connections circled in pink (brown wire).


Exactly.


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## FireFox (Jan 10, 2017)

Nicholas Peyton said:


> I've not recorded the result



Well, that's the first thing i will do tomorrow.



Nicholas Peyton said:


> but with the chiller switched on for an hour last night.. it made the temperature in the room rise a good couple of degrees.. its like a small heater lol...



As you know my room temps are low because i don't use the heater, Did you have the heater plus the Chiller on?


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## Nicholas Peyton (Jan 10, 2017)

Mr.Scott said:


> Exactly.



I was looking forward to a post from you, Mr Scott.... lol.. _to be honest I was actually hoping for it_, or even something correcting me lol.... 

So I'm even more pleased, I got it right, lol.

Anyway; think I'm going to go with *Mayhems XT-1 *by the way, for coolant..... it's been especially designed for sub-zero use with water-chillers in the PC Liquid Cooling business, and is advertised as lower viscosity for the same freeze protection 

After continuing my "research" lol.. it seems corrosion will be least of my worries.... seen a setup on midlifegamer.co.uk where a guy was using *four* D5's.  No idea what coolant he was using...


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## Nicholas Peyton (Jan 10, 2017)

Knoxx29 said:


> Well, that's the first thing i will do tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> As you know my room temps are low because i don't use the heater, Did you have the heater plus the Chiller on?



Yeah, at one point I did.. but the Chiller will still, definitely raise the room temp a bit.. especially after its been running a while....


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## FireFox (Jan 10, 2017)

Nicholas Peyton said:


> Anyway; think I'm going to go with *Mayhems XT-1 *by the way, for coolant



And you made me call Innovatek for nothing

Joke.

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...ad-For-Water-Cooling/1357631_32235028244.html


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## Nicholas Peyton (Jan 10, 2017)

It wasn't for nothing.....

I've got a few options...

I already had a support request going with Mayhems at the time and I was also very pleased to hear about the Innovatek as well (which is still an option if the Mayhems doesn't work out)

2/3 days ago I thought the biggest problem was going to be with corrosion.... or with acrylic chemical reactions with coolant.

But the more I dug and the more research I done (I eventually started looking at other peoples sub-zero setups)

And I found an example where a guy needed *FOUR* D5 pumps just for -10 because the viscosity becomes a huge problem.

The more concentrate you use, the thicker it gets...

I am still astonished the Innovatek already works for -13c


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## FireFox (Jan 10, 2017)

Nicholas Peyton said:


> I am still astonished the Innovatek already works for -13c



Because it has Ethanediol


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## Nicholas Peyton (Jan 10, 2017)

Innovatek Protect concentrate by Aquatuning 1000ml £17.14
£17.14 x 5 L = £85.70  <--- that's $104 for those in the U.S lol for 5L

Mayhems XT-1
250ml concentrate will make up to 5 Ltrs @ 5% volume £6.75 per 250ML

Frost Protection °C / *% v/v of Mayhems XT-1 in the system
- N/A    - 5%
- 2.5°C - 10%
- 5 °C   - 16%
- 10 °C - 22%
- 15 °C - 28%

so 28% for -15c
= 6 x 250ml bottles

=£37.68


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## Nicholas Peyton (Jan 10, 2017)

I wonder if *Ethanediol* (Innovatek Protect IP) is lower Viscosity for the same freeze protection than *Ethylene *(Mayhems XT-1) or vice versa....

The difference in price, suggests maybe Innovatek Protect IP could be easier to pump.... (not as thick)

So if the Mayhems doesn't work out for me, I know what to do next.. even if it is a lot more expensive 

*googles Ethanediol*
*
Edit:*
They are the *same* thing:

Other names
Ethylene glycol
1,2-Ethanediol
Ethylene alcohol
Hypodicarbonous acid
Monoethylene glycol
1,2-Dihydroxyethane


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## FireFox (Jan 10, 2017)

Nicholas Peyton said:


> Innovatek Protect concentrate by Aquatuning 1000ml £17.14
> £17.14 x 5 L = £85.70 <--- that's $104 for those in the U.S lol for 5L



You don't need to buy the concentrate one if you're not going to -20c, you have to buy the regular one and don't need to add anything, and for -20c you just need 1.5L concentrated in 7L of the regular one.


Note: Innovatek regular is 25% for -13c.


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## Nicholas Peyton (Jan 10, 2017)

oops, I see that now.. I was looking at the concentrate.... (

the page description is in German, must of threw me off.

It's mixed 1:3

So I'm getting 4L coolant for 17.14, that's definitely more reasonable.


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## FireFox (Jan 10, 2017)

Nicholas Peyton said:


> oops, I see that now.. I was looking at the concentrate.... (
> 
> the page description is in German, must of threw me off.



This is the name:

*innovatek Protect IP Anwendungsmischung *

http://www.webshop-innovatek.de/sho...ek-Protect-IP-Anwendungsmischung-1-Liter.html

And buy it directly from Innovatek not from Aquatuning.

Note: i have paid 78€ for 7 liters, should be around 67£.


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## Nicholas Peyton (Jan 11, 2017)

So how big is your tank then mate? Is it as big as the HC-500a (about 4-5L)?

Has your coolant arrived yet? 

Hows your temps?

A new thread with some screenshots would be good and maybe even a bit drool-worthy for some people thinking of following suit with us lol 

P.S. so did you keep the radiator in, like you said?


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## FireFox (Jan 11, 2017)

Nicholas Peyton said:


> So how big is your tank then mate? Is it as big as the HC-500a (about 4-5L)?



Your 500A is 475×360×490mm and my 250A is 448×330×440mm, probably 1L less.



Nicholas Peyton said:


> Has your coolant arrived yet?



I am pissed off, DHL delay, there weren't able to delivery it today




Nicholas Peyton said:


> Hows your temps?



Still Hot



Nicholas Peyton said:


> A new thread with some screenshots would be good and maybe even a bit drool-worthy for some people thinking of following suit with us lol



Uhmmmmm

If People think twice before building a Watercooling System how many times do they have to think before building a Waterchiller System?

Note: for many reasons no everybody is prepared to take that step.



Nicholas Peyton said:


> P.S. so did you keep the radiator in, like you said?



For sure i will keep it.


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## Nicholas Peyton (Jan 11, 2017)

That's shit; you must be really annoyed.  Damn courier companies are quiet at this time of year too...

Keeping will be safer I suppose, if you get any condensation... you can just turn fans on FULL and that could save you 

Beware though; if you do get any... (condensation) it will appear on anything metal before it appears on anything plastic (like tubing).... tubing will be last 

I found that out the *hard way,* lol

Humidity is nice & low tonight, but soon I won't need to check the meter anymore (hopefully)


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## FireFox (Jan 11, 2017)

Nicholas Peyton said:


> if you get any condensation... you can just turn fans on FULL and that could save you



I shouldn't get condensation for the following reasons:

1 - you get condensation if you go below Td temps.
( i will Set my temps way above Td temps, at least 7c+ )

2 - i have 2 top fans constantly running at 1200rpm and one rear fan running at 1200rpm in order to keep the air moving out of the case and prevent condensation.



Nicholas Peyton said:


> I found that out the hard way, lol



Did you get condensation?


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## basco (Jan 12, 2017)

i ever only used distilled water in my chiller + water projects.
5 liter= 1.-
and this for motherboard + cpu socket insulation:
https://www.conrad.at/de/Search.html?search=CRC Kontakt Chemie 73509-AA ISOLIER 72 Silikonölspray 200 ml - 813648&sc.queryFromSuggest=true&searchType=SUGGEST&searchSource=SUGGEST_PRODUCT&category=Werkzeug+%26+WerkstattPflegemittel

and to get rid of it :
https://www.conrad.at/de/Search.html?search=Kontaktreiniger CRC Kontakt Chemie 71013 71013-AA 400 ml - 823990&sc.queryFromSuggest=true&searchType=SUGGEST&searchSource=SUGGEST_PRODUCT&category=Werkzeug+%26+WerkstattPflegemittel

and for the rest:
https://www.amazon.de/s/ref=nb_sb_n...&url=search-alias=diy&field-keywords=armaflex


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## Nicholas Peyton (Jan 12, 2017)

Translated for 1st and 2nd items:

Silicone oil with high active ingredient content. Highly insulating, very productive. Ideal for eliminating insulation errors on small transformers and coils.  It also provides a thin, water-resistant lubricant and lubrication film for sensitive fine-mechanical components made of plastic. . Airtight release agent for plastics, lacquers and adhesives.

Spray washing for all electronics. Universal solvent for cleaning and degreasing electrical equipment, motors and precision mechanical transmissions. Cleans circuit boards and contacts. . For spray washing on control cabinets, mixing consoles and housings.  Removes a wide range of dirt such as oil, grease, nicotine, soot or soda residue.  High material compatibility with common materials in electronics


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## FireFox (Jan 12, 2017)

*Update*

Because i knew that the Coolant was going to be delivered today i started to get ready the Machine and Chiller.

First thing i did was to remove the Graphic Card from the Machine.





*The Hoses.*

All what i did was disconnect the hose that went from the radiator to the CPU and hook up the Out from the Chiller to the CPU and the In from the Chiller to the radiator.








The Coolant arrived at 12:42, 12 minutes after i went to work.






*Adding the Coolant.*

I knew that adding the Coolant through the reservoir to fill the Chiller was going to take more than 10 minutes, that's why i added 2L Coolant directly to the Chiller and 1/2L Coolant through the reservoir, it took no more than 5 minutes.









*What a mess*





I don't know why i bought 2 Valves






*The Chiller is running*


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## Nicholas Peyton (Jan 12, 2017)

good to see mate how is it coping?

lets see some temperature screenshots

those windows open and the heating off.. see if u can get that dew point, lower than me lol! 

whats your dew point meter saying?


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## FireFox (Jan 12, 2017)

Nicholas Peyton said:


> lets see some temperature screenshots



I have the Chiller's temp set at 18c








Nicholas Peyton said:


> and the heating off..



You know that i don't use a Heater in my room











With the Chiller's Temps set at 18c the CPU's Temps never goes above 31c while Gaming, i haven't tried temps below 18c yet.


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## FireFox (Jan 13, 2017)

@Nicholas Peyton 




Nicholas Peyton said:


> lets see some temperature screenshots



Just to make you happy


*Full load *



 





*Idle*


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## Durvelle27 (Jan 13, 2017)

I want one now


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## FireFox (Jan 13, 2017)

Durvelle27 said:


> I want one now



It would be fun

16c is the lowest i have tried and System temp are amazing


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## Durvelle27 (Jan 13, 2017)

Knoxx29 said:


> It would be fun
> 
> 16c is the lowest i have tried and System temp are amazing


Lowest I've ever achieved is 53°C on a FX-8350 @5.5GHz ambient temperature -3°C


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## Nicholas Peyton (Jan 13, 2017)

Glad to see your enjoying it


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## FireFox (Jan 13, 2017)

Nicholas Peyton said:


> Glad to see your enjoying it



It's very quiet and efficient, temps set at 18c, rarely it reach 19c and it turns on for 1 minute.


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## FireFox (Jan 13, 2017)

Nicholas Peyton said:


> see if u can get that dew point, lower than me lol!



No windows open


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## Nicholas Peyton (Jan 13, 2017)

enough poncing around at 18c, and push her a lil further lol


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## FireFox (Jan 13, 2017)

Nicholas Peyton said:


> enough poncing around at 18c, and push her a lil further lol


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## Nicholas Peyton (Jan 13, 2017)

looking good ;-)


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## fast fate (May 17, 2017)

Great reading for a new chiller user - 
Thanks for the info 
Hoping for a little advice
I have bypassed the temp controller on my Hailea HC-1000 using the wire bridge method in post #20 so the chiller is in an always on state
and am using a 240V thermostat relay to control the on/off cycles from the mains power.
This is working perfectly 

I am correct in assuming that the P1 code on the chiller when below -1.5° is the internal temp sensor bugging out at the cold ??

The controller has an LED display which shows current temp and the temp to sswitch off when running and reaches set temperature.

what temp is the coldest you guys have achieved ?
what temp is the HC-1000 safely capable of going down to ?
I'm currently @ -3°C

what is recommended delay time between shut down/start up ?
is 1 minute too short a time or should I stick with the 3mins that the chiller controller used ?

Currently no load - just 2 loops circulating.
Will takes some pics later and post up along with some shots when a system under it for benching session.


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## Nicholas Peyton (May 17, 2017)

fast fate said:


> Great reading for a new chiller user -
> Thanks for the info
> Hoping for a little advice
> I have bypassed the temp controller on my Hailea HC-1000 using the wire bridge method in post #20 so the chiller is in an always on state
> ...



I have the HC-500a.

And yes the P1 code is just the sensor bugging out.   Nothing to worry about. (It has lower and upper thresholds) if you go lower or higher than it will display "P1".

My Hailea is only half the power yours is.  And the lowest I was ever able to get my coolant temp to was -14c.  That was by only running the pump. Then bringing the PC straight back into windows from sleep mode. (the heat generated by a boot-up would of taken me back up to about -8c before I could even start a benchmark.

However bringing the PC back from sleep (or using software from your motherboard manufacturer to down-clock and under-volt your CPU) to get temp down. Then leap out of that condition and straight into your bench! (maybe a quick 3dmark run)?

The problem with Chillers today is they now use a refrigerant (gas) that is more economically friendly.   (R134A). But unfortunately it also has a higher boiling point. The closer to that boiling point you get the more efficiency you lose. It's not possible to go below it. I think the boiling point of R134A is -26c.

You're chiller is more powerful than mine. So I guess you might make it to about -19/-20c.

For me to get to -14 not only did I have to do the above, but I had to place the Chiller by an open Window in Winter (-10c outside) so the chillers fan would be drawing cold air through it's self and into the room.

Under normal idling conditions with the chiller indoors -- I don't believe I was able to get lower than about -8c (then by the time your bench finished dumping a load back into the Chiller I'd be at between -1c and +2c coolant temp.

I had a lot of fun with mine ;-)

Interested to see how low you get yours.

Good luck; and let us know how you get on


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## fast fate (May 17, 2017)

Really Appreciate the response and so quickly too 

Just finished reading another forum post about refrigerant being the limiting factor, so glad to hear that you are able to conform this
and it appears no other "hardware" issues will cause limitations.

I'm in Perth WA which is a Mediterranean climate, BUT it is almost Winter here.
Tonight's forecast looks to be the best conditions for the next few days - https://weather.com/weather/hourbyhour/l/ASWA0604:1:AS

I doubt I will get to your temps even with the bigger chiller because of my ambient temps.

One more quick question.....Did you insulate the tank and compressor of the chiller ??

Now that confirmed no hardware limits on the chiller I feel safer to dial down the temps - I had it down to -5° earlier but wanted to gather more info before going lower.

Cheers


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## Nicholas Peyton (May 17, 2017)

fast fate said:


> Really Appreciate the response and so quickly too
> 
> Just finished reading another forum post about refrigerant being the limiting factor, so glad to hear that you are able to conform this
> and it appears no other "hardware" issues will cause limitations.
> ...



Yeah, there's a post somewhere with all my pictures of how I insulated the tank (pipes leading into it) and tubing. And even my blocks.

No need to insulate the compressor.

Here's one of my posts you might like:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1533164/the-24-7-sub-zero-liquid-chillbox-club/730#post_25800125

And you-tube video showing ice/frost build-up on my fully insulated 1080 GPU on Chiller:









_My CPU is also under Dry Ice. (so just skip past that part)
_
Hope you have fun lol


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## fast fate (May 17, 2017)

Can you pretty please add me to your list of people allowed to view your profile so that I can search your posts for the thread with pics of insulation

this was last night when still above zero, 3°C I think.
I only did the wiring mod and added the external controller this morning.


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## FireFox (May 17, 2017)

fast fate said:


> this was last night when still above zero, 3°C I think.



Frost at 3°C


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## fast fate (May 17, 2017)

Knoxx29 said:


> Frost at 3°C


ambient was probs 15°C which means humidity was high 50's.
Kinda makes sense according to dew point calculator - http://www.dpcalc.org/


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## FireFox (May 17, 2017)

fast fate said:


> ambient was probs 15°C which means humidity was high 50's.
> Kinda makes sense according to dew point calculator - http://www.dpcalc.org/



Weird, because if i am not mistaken with a 11c/12c room temp and the chiller set at 1c i never saw any kind of frost.


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## fast fate (May 17, 2017)

1st time running the chiller yesterday, so I didn't really know what to expect.
If didn't surprise me it was frosting up after checking the dew point calculator, but now maybe I am "slightly concerned".

circulating chiller loop only atm, ambient temp 21°C
coolant temp down to -7° very slow to drop temp now, so might be at limit for daytime use.
Hoping for better/lower temps during the night,
BUT even if not, I got a nice 10° drop in coolant temp from the thermostat bypass mod


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## FireFox (May 17, 2017)

fast fate said:


> coolant temp down to -7° very slow to drop temp now



Minus temp take longer.


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## Nicholas Peyton (May 17, 2017)

fast fate said:


> Can you pretty please add me to your list of people allowed to view your profile so that I can search your posts for the thread with pics of insulation
> 
> this was last night when still above zero, 3°C I think.
> I only did the wiring mod and added the external controller this morning.



Try now.


---------------------------------


Hi Knox how's it going?

Long time no see.

I upgraded since we last spoke.

But my 7700k needs more than 1.35v for 5Ghz. So I'm stuck at 4.9.

Thinking about a de-lid.

Not used the Chiller for a while.


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## fast fate (May 19, 2017)

Had a session with the modded chiller yesterday on a QX9650 chip.
Coolant temp delivered to the chip was never greater than -1.0°C.
For the most part coolant temp was between -2° and -3°.
I was somewhat surprised and very impressed that the chiller was able to regulate temp so well.
I suspected that the heat from CPU loop mixing with coolant from chiller loop in 10Lt. reservoir would results in high coolant temp.
BUT was excited to see that it was able to keep sub-zero for the whole session.

We played with CPU voltage at or above 1.75 Volt and (I think) the CPU temp didn't get above 35° which I think was pretty awesome.

Was amazing to see in real life (not just photos or screenshots) the temps, being as low as we had using the chiller.
I mean CPU temp (idle) of 5°C when ambient temp is ~20°C - that's just made me happy.

We were hoping to break for 5Ghz on the Socket 775 chip BUT fell just short at 4951 MHz.

There's still work to do on the OC, so feeling reasonably confident that it'll do the 5Ghz next session.


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## fast fate (May 20, 2017)

photo of the set-up from the session


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