# The WTF, I'm about to de-lid thread!



## Sasqui (Mar 26, 2013)

How many i3-i5-i7 owners here have de-lidded their CPUs?  I'm about to do mine, knowledge gained from YouTube and many other guides.  For now, I'll post pre-de-lidding temps.  After de-lidding, I will post results... within a few hours.

I'll do a compilation if this catches on.  For now, this is my system running Prime95 for 15 min.  i5-3750k @ 4.7 Ghz.  1.39v in BIOS, 16GB Mem 2133 C9 1.65v.

Stock Lid:


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## Vario (Mar 26, 2013)

http://www.overclock.net/t/1370209/delid-3570k-without-a-razor-blade

See his video: http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/1...d/IMG_0081.m4v

I tried this just now with two celeron 420s and they seperated just like his video with no marks or obvious damage to the pcb.  This only takes a minute to set up as opposed to an hour of cutting with a razor blade.  I haven't tested this yet on the i5 3570k but will be doing it in the next day or so.  You should give this a shot because it is way way easier than using a razor blade.  I have no way of testing these 420s.  I have delidded 4 420s now, two by razor blade and 2 by hammer and vice.  Hammer and vice is way way easier and I think its safer but I don't know if the shock of the blow can damage the chip?


Best of luck ! 

edit: heres link to hammer+vice method http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/130315-Delid-vid/IMG_0081.m4v


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## Frogger (Mar 26, 2013)

have a look   http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=179430


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## cadaveca (Mar 26, 2013)

Mine:








You'll soon be buying Coolabratory Pro, if ya haven't already. I highly recommend it.


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## Sasqui (Mar 26, 2013)

All... sweet!  Just have to get off the computer I'm de-lidding, LOL.  BRB


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## suraswami (Mar 26, 2013)

cadaveca said:


> Mine:
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=50639&stc=1&d=1364339387
> 
> ...



That is damn nice picture!  you should post that in the TPU Photo Club thread.



Sasqui said:


> All... sweet!  Just have to get off the computer I'm de-lidding, LOL.  BRB



Good Luck!


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## cadaveca (Mar 27, 2013)

Ha, I'm not a photographer by any means. Thanks though, I did try to make it a bit moody. 

There's a long story to MY de-lidding...I'll relate it later.


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## Vario (Mar 27, 2013)

I delidded with the hammer method.  Its works.  My temps are TERRIBLE, 32 stock idle 88.  I need to reapply the thermal paste.


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## cadaveca (Mar 27, 2013)

Hammer method? Tell me more, kind sir, tell me more!


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## erocker (Mar 27, 2013)

cadaveca said:


> Mine:
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=50639&stc=1&d=1364339387
> 
> ...



How is the mounting mechanism applying pressure to the CPU without the heatspreader?


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## cadaveca (Mar 27, 2013)

erocker said:


> How is the mounting mechanism applying pressure to the CPU without the heatspreader?



WHut!?! 


For me:

IHS is replaced, TIM is replaced with Coolaboratory Pro. 25c drop. I get 18c with just MX4 though.

With this method, when putting bracket to closed, the IHS will slide on the chip, so you have to place it down offset before clipping in the bracket, and you need to also consider such movement when applying paste.



Sonda5:

removed bracket, mounted CPU block directly. 


Sonda5's way, + Coolabs, = a 35C drop for many people I have seen now, 10+. I don't quite need that big of a drop, 3570k doesn't have that high of an overall heat output.


It's the HT chips that really benefit, of course. I just happened ot have delidded the wrong chip by mistake. I wondered why it wouldn't clock any more...thought I killed it, went to find the 3570k to make sure it wasn't the board, found the 3770K instead of the 3570k..realized I de-lidded the wrong chip...


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## Sasqui (Mar 27, 2013)

Holy SHIT!  Took me about 30 min to de-lid and apply AS5.  Put dabs of silicone on corners of the IHS to hold the seat.

65c peak after 5 mins...  will post results after 15 min. DAMN!


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## Sasqui (Mar 27, 2013)

Wow, 13c drop in 15 minutes+ of Prime95...  that is impressive!


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## radrok (Mar 27, 2013)

Go for the 5GHz!!


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## Sasqui (Mar 27, 2013)

radrok said:


> Go for the 5GHz!!



4.8 now... 2 mins at the 77c mark 

Wish the wattage had a peak value, it's been close to 80w!


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## Vario (Mar 27, 2013)

cadaveca said:


> Hammer method? Tell me more, kind sir, tell me more!



See my post above: took me 1 minute to remove the lid!


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## Sasqui (Mar 27, 2013)

I need to drop the voltage, at 1.425 in BIOS... so here we are at 4.8 Ghz, temps lower than 4.7 Ghz at 1.39v in BIOS before de-lidding

Going to let it run overnight.


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## cadaveca (Mar 27, 2013)

amp281 said:


> See my post above: took me 1 minute to remove the lid!



Well, when I first clicked the link, I got a 404.


But afterwords...DAMN!!! I wasted SOO MUCH TIME!!!



Sasqui said:


> I need to drop the voltage, at 1.425 in BIOS... so here we are at 4.8 Ghz, temps lower than 4.7 Ghz at 1.39v in BIOS before de-lidding
> 
> Going to let it run overnight.
> 
> http://img.techpowerup.org/130326/New_RAD_48_1425v_Load_De-Lid.png




NOt bad, not bad at all. Coolaboratory pro would make it even better....


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## dark2099 (Mar 27, 2013)

are we sure that ivy bridge (or at least 3770Ks) still are made with just tim rather than an adhesive?  got mine some time after new years


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## DOM (Mar 27, 2013)

cadaveca said:


> Hammer method? Tell me more, kind sir, tell me more!



LOL that reminded me from that att commercial XD 

We want more give us more  

But I really need to get some of that Coolaboratory Prob


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## Nordic (Mar 27, 2013)

I still find the idea of doing this scary. Thats coming from a guy who washed his motherboard to remove flux because a tpu thread said it might help his overclock a bit.


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## 15th Warlock (Mar 27, 2013)

This de-liding thing, do you guys get good results on SB processors too? Impressive results, intel really dropped the ball on whatever thermal interface they used for IB.

Btw, that's a beautiful photo cadaveca, makes me wanna try this thing on one of my processors


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## Vario (Mar 27, 2013)

cadaveca said:


> Well, when I first clicked the link, I got a 404.
> 
> 
> But afterwords...DAMN!!! I wasted SOO MUCH TIME!!!
> ...



I gotta redo my ClPro application.  My temps are terrible I think I used too much and it wasnt a smooth enough application,


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## BiggieShady (Mar 27, 2013)

amp281 said:


> See my post above: took me 1 minute to remove the lid!





cadaveca said:


> Well, when I first clicked the link, I got a 404.



I'm also interested, but link seems bad :


```
<a href="http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/1...d/IMG_0081.m4v" target="_blank">http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/1...d/IMG_0081.m4v</a>
```


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## Sasqui (Mar 27, 2013)

Overnight @ 4.8Ghz!  Before de-lid, it was 94c, now it's 80c:

AS5 seems to be settling in, that's 2c cooler than the 15 minute run I did earlier.


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## Vario (Mar 27, 2013)

BiggieShady said:


> I'm also interested, but link seems bad :
> 
> 
> ```
> ...



try this link: http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/130315-Delid-vid/IMG_0081.m4v


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## BiggieShady (Mar 27, 2013)

amp281 said:


> try this link: http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/130315-Delid-vid/IMG_0081.m4v



Thanks ... and wow  ... to think how many people destroyed their CPU by cutting the PCB :shadedshu


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## Vario (Mar 27, 2013)

I can't freaking spread the coolaboratory pro right.  I mean I got it on the die and spread it around and bolted it all up and my temps are horrible.  I am going to try arctic silver 5 because this liquid metal shit is so hard to work with!!!!  Any tips on the CLP?


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## Vario (Mar 27, 2013)

amp281 said:


> I can't freaking spread the coolaboratory pro right.  I mean I got it on the die and spread it around and bolted it all up and my temps are horrible.  I am going to try arctic silver 5 because this liquid metal shit is so hard to work with!!!!  Any tips on the CLP?



I just tried the arctic silver 5 and my temps are a tiny bit better  but still really bad.  Like 30*C idle 75*C load with stock clocks.  

Before was 25*C idle 55*C load at 4.0 ghz.

The IHS must not be contacting the die?  I am not sure whats going on.  I scraped off most of the black adhesive with my fingernail but it was tough to remove....

HELP!

Should I spread the as5 or the liquid pro  on the die or just dot it on the die ?


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## RCoon (Mar 27, 2013)

amp281 said:


> I just tried the arctic silver 5 and my temps are a tiny bit better  but still really bad.  Like 30*C idle 75*C load with stock clocks.
> 
> Before was 25*C idle 55*C load at 4.0 ghz.
> 
> ...



Make a line of liquid pro down the length of the die, but make room for it to spread in the direction the IHS will slide when clamped down.


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## Vario (Mar 27, 2013)

RCoon said:


> Make a line of liquid pro down the length of the die, but make room for it to spread in the direction the IHS will slide when clamped down.



Okay I'll give it a shot.  Thankfully the H100i makes removal easy.


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## Sasqui (Mar 27, 2013)

amp281 said:


> Should I spread the as5 or the liquid pro on the die or just dot it on the die ?



First, make sure you've removed as much of the stock black adhesive on the chip and IHS as possible.  Drop the lid on top of the die, you should see a small gap where the black adhesive was and it should slide around easlity on top of the die... the die will be holding the IHS up.

Then, I used a razor blade to spread a thin AS5 layer on the die, put the chip in the socket, dabbed silicone on each corner of the IHS outside bottom corners, placed carfeully on the chip and locked the bracket.  Then spread a layer of AS5 on the top of the IHS, installed the cooler carefully, screwing diagonal reatiner screws sucessively.  Without even pressure, I suspect the IHS could lift off an edge or corner (which would NOT be good).


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## D007 (Mar 27, 2013)

Why do they sell them lidded if they work this much better without? lol.. I iz confused..


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## BiggieShady (Mar 27, 2013)

amp281 said:


> The IHS must not be contacting the die



I don't know if it's possible but you might check if you deformed the IHS with the vise.


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## Aquinus (Mar 27, 2013)

15th Warlock said:


> This de-liding thing, do you guys get good results on SB processors too?



SB and SB-E chips can't be de-lidded because they're soldered to the lid. It's also why it has better thermal contact with it as well.


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## Sasqui (Mar 27, 2013)

D007 said:


> Why do they sell them lidded if they work this much better without? lol.. I iz confused..



They use grey poupon for thermal interface material.  It's supposed to be the best out there, but I think that applies to a ham sandwich.


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## Vario (Mar 27, 2013)

I can't even get it to the mid 20's again.  I am at 35*C  idle again.  high 80's p95, stock! What the fuck!?

I never thought the thermal paste application would be the part that fucked me up.

What am I doing wrong?  I have tried spreading as5 on chip, spreading liquid pro on chip, dotting chip with as5 and with liquid pro.


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## Sasqui (Mar 27, 2013)

amp281 said:


> I can't even get it to the mid 20's again.  I am at 35*C  idle again.  high 80's p95, stock! What the fuck!?
> 
> I never thought the thermal paste application would be the part that fucked me up.
> 
> What am I doing wrong?  I have tried spreading as5 on chip, spreading liquid pro on chip, dotting chip with as5 and with liquid pro.



This, maybe:



Sasqui said:


> First, make sure you've removed as much of the stock black adhesive on the chip and IHS as possible.  Drop the lid on top of the die, you should see a small gap where the black adhesive was and it should slide around easlity on top of the die... the die will be holding the IHS up.
> 
> Then, I used a razor blade to spread a thin AS5 layer on the die, put the chip in the socket, dabbed silicone on each corner of the IHS outside bottom corners, placed carfeully on the chip and locked the bracket.  Then spread a layer of AS5 on the top of the IHS, installed the cooler carefully, screwing diagonal reatiner screws sucessively.  *Without even pressure, I suspect the IHS could lift off an edge or corner (which would NOT be good)*.


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## brandonwh64 (Mar 27, 2013)

Sasqui said:


> They use grey poupon for thermal interface material.  It's supposed to be the best out there, but I think that applies to a ham sandwich.



Weres the pictures of the delid?


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## Vario (Mar 27, 2013)

I mean it looks perfect... Heres pics.  The lid is flat I checked it with a razor blade edge.

The resulting temp this last time (the 6th try) was 38*C Idle....!!!!!





























There has to be something I'm missing right guys?

If I still have problems I might do direct die with the h100i, IDK.


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## phoen (Mar 27, 2013)

amp281 said:


> I mean it looks perfect... Heres pics.  The lid is flat I checked it with a razor blade edge.
> 
> The resulting temp this last time (the 6th try) was 38*C Idle....!!!!!
> http://i.imgur.com/WS4YISEl.jpg
> ...



Not enough of CLP...


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## RCoon (Mar 27, 2013)

My eyes could be deceiving me as im on my phone, but that's a very tiny amount of thermal paste


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## Vario (Mar 27, 2013)

Really.. How much should be on it?  I am really confused I figured it would spread once the pressure is applied to it.  Is it safe if it comes off the die a little bit on the sides?  I am a less is more thermal paste guy so this is all new to me.

The lid is definitely floating on top of the die before I clamped it so its contacting only the die as it should.


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## RCoon (Mar 27, 2013)

Doesn't your paste tube have application markers on it? It might be worth using a plastic bag or glove to spread the paste yourself so you can ensure enough is covering the area. Twice as much on the ihs anyway


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## Sasqui (Mar 27, 2013)

brandonwh64 said:


> Weres the pictures of the delid?
> 
> http://media-cache-ec5.pinterest.com/upload/267682771573438321_eVKbAbwX_c.jpg



LOL, I have pics on my camera (at home) of just the die and lid opened up, no thermal pasteries.  Will post tonight if I find the time.



RCoon said:


> Doesn't your paste tube have application markers on it? It might be worth using a plastic bag or glove to spread the paste yourself so you can ensure enough is covering the area. Twice as much on the ihs anyway



Yes, and perhaps spread a thin layer on the inside of the IHS too.


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## 15th Warlock (Mar 27, 2013)

If I remember correctly, for the Coolaboratory TIM to work, they specifically ask you to paint both the whole die area *and* the heatsink area as well using the included brush. 

This is the only TIM as far as I know where using more is actually beneficial for adequate heat transfer to occur.




Aquinus said:


> SB and SB-E chips can't be de-lidded because they're soldered to the lid. It's also why it has better thermal contact with it as well.



Thanks, after seeing the results the OP obtained from this procedure I was wondering if my procs would benefit from it, thanks for clearing that out


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## dark2099 (Mar 27, 2013)

For those who don't want to hunt through the Overclock.net thread, a proper link to the video.


```
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/130315-Delid-vid/IMG_0081.m4v
```


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## brandonwh64 (Mar 27, 2013)

dark2099 said:


> For those who don't want to hunt through the Overclock.net thread, a proper link to the video.
> 
> 
> ```
> ...



That is a killer idea, Seems like its quicker and somewhat safer as long as you dont baseball swing the hammer.


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## Sasqui (Mar 27, 2013)

brandonwh64 said:


> That is a killer idea, Seems like its quicker and somewhat safer as long as you dont baseball swing the hammer.



I have a cut on my finger, lol.  Despite that, I'd still rather do it by hand so I can feel the resistance.  Hitting too hard and chipping the silicon would really suck.


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## Vario (Mar 27, 2013)

15th Warlock said:


> If I remember correctly, for the Coolaboratory TIM to work, they specifically ask you to paint both the whole die area *and* the heatsink area as well using the included brush.
> 
> This is the only TIM as far as I know where using more is actually beneficial for adequate heat transfer to occur.
> 
> ...



I never recieved the brush or retail package just the syringe.  Xoxide kind of dropped the ball.  Also it doesnt want to disperse as I'm spreading it.  It stays in a bead.


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## natr0n (Mar 27, 2013)

amp281 said:


> I never recieved the brush or retail package just the syringe.  Xoxide kind of dropped the ball.  Also it doesnt want to disperse as I'm spreading it.  It stays in a bead.



Try using a q-tip.


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## Vario (Mar 27, 2013)

natr0n said:


> Try using a q-tip.



Okay I went with AS5, this was probably 9th attempt. I coated the die with AS5 and the lid underside using a baggie on my finger.  I think I was just afraid to use too much.

Temps are 28*C load 62*C load, basically same as before lid but atleast Its better than 40*C idle.


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## LAN_deRf_HA (Mar 27, 2013)

dark2099 said:


> For those who don't want to hunt through the Overclock.net thread, a proper link to the video.
> 
> 
> ```
> ...



I too prefer to do my modding shirtless.


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## Vario (Mar 27, 2013)

Okay I am now up and running my OC setting.
4.0ghz @ 1.128v (-.085 offset)
After:
Idle: 25*C Load: 61*C Prime 95

Before:
Idle 28*C Load: 64*C Prime 95

edit: temps are continuing to drop a couple degrees as I run load.  As5 thermal paste maturing?


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## Sasqui (Mar 27, 2013)

amp281 said:


> Temps are 28*C load 62*C load, basically same as before lid but atleast Its better than 40*C idle



Progress, good. ...62c load stock?

Edit:


amp281 said:


> Okay I am now up and running my OC setting.
> 4.0ghz @ 1.128v (-.085 offset)


Where do you find an V offset in your BIOS?  I can't find mine!

Edit2:



amp281 said:


> As5 thermal paste maturing?



It's probably spreading out and filling gaps initially.  Takes a number of cycles to manture from what I've read.


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## Vario (Mar 27, 2013)

Sasqui said:


> Progress, good. ...62c load stock?
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Where do you find an V offset in your BIOS?  I can't find mine!



I have a Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H.  I go in my voltage options and select  CPU Core volt to normal from auto.  Then Offset right below it becomes un-greyed out.  I then push + or - to get the offset voltage I want.

Yes 62 load stock.  With undervolt overclock and h100i on high 70*C intel burn test and 59*C Prime95.  So I am getting improvements as it cures.  Awesome!!!!



Heres my practice pile of Celeron 420s ($5 per off ebay, it was worth the $20 for the confidence in the delid process). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





I did 2 with razor blade and 2 with vice+hammer.  I say vice and hammer is safer because it only takes 1 minute to do and theres less risk of slicing the die.  Make sure to clamp the metal IHS really tight and then just put a bit of tape on the edge of the pcb where you strike so it doesn't damage the green plastic

I'd say of my celerons 3 should be functional and 1 is probably functional but there are some small nicks on the surface of the pcb because the blade didn't want to penetrate without a lot of force.


Lateedit:
Does CLU spread easier than CLP? I don't like how hard CLP is to spread it literally stays beaded even with a small brush...


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## Sasqui (Mar 27, 2013)

amp281 said:


> I have a Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H.  I go in my voltage options and select  CPU Core volt to normal from auto.  Then Offset right below it becomes un-greyed out.  I then push + or - to get the offset voltage I want....



I don't even see anything greyed out.  Then again, I simply typed the VCore value into the box where it said Auto.



amp281 said:


> Yes 62 load stock.  With undervolt overclock and h100i on high 70*C intel burn test and 59*C Prime95.  So I am getting improvements as it cures.  Awesome!!!!....



Sweet.



amp281 said:


> Heres my practice pile of Celeron 420s ($5 per off ebay, it was worth the $20 for the confidence in the delid process). http://i.imgur.com/AtANfBBl.jpg
> 
> I did 2 with razor blade and 2 with vice+hammer.  I say vice and hammer is safer because it only takes 1 minute to do and theres less risk of slicing the die.  Make sure to clamp the metal IHS really tight and then just put a bit of tape on the edge of the pcb where you strike so it doesn't damage the green plastic
> 
> I'd say of my celerons 3 should be functional and 1 is probably functional but there are some small nicks on the surface of the pcb because the blade didn't want to penetrate without a lot of force.



You're a smart man.  Are any of those Celly's socket 1155 or 1156?


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## Vario (Mar 27, 2013)

Sasqui said:


> Are any of those Celly's socket 1155 or 1156?



Nope they are socket 775 I think.

Nice delidding with you buddy lol 


Late edit: couldn't resist and tore into it again.  This time used up the last bit of liquid pro and its running 58*C, 25*C idle, 4.0ghz 1.128v load.   The difference this time was I errored on the side of too much.  I coated the die and the backside of the ihs where it would contact the die.  This is actually a 4*C reduction from the as5 previous.


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## Sasqui (Mar 27, 2013)

amp281 said:


> Late edit: couldn't resist and tore into it again. This time used up the last bit of liquid pro and its running 58*C, 25*C idle, 4.0ghz 1.128v load. The difference this time was I errored on the side of too much. I coated the die and the backside of the ihs where it would contact the die. This is actually a 4*C reduction from the as5 previous.



Awesome, it sounds like you're ready to go higher.  Start with a higher clock... 4.1 and see if you're stable and temps are good, my guess is 60c.

And next, pictures!

Before...





Lid cut off...





Lid + Chip cleaned... looks sloppy but worked!





Those are all the pics I took.  From start to clean, took about 10 mins.


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## Vario (Mar 27, 2013)

Sasqui said:


> Awesome, it sounds like you're ready to go higher.  Start with a higher clock... 4.1 and see if you're stable and temps are good, my guess is 60c.
> 
> And next, pictures!
> 
> ...



So you used the razor method?  Thats really fast for 10 minutes.  Hell even though I knocked the IHS off in 1 minute with the hammer/vice method it took me atleast 20 minutes to scrape the black adhesive off (fingernail, isopropyl, paper towels)!

I've got it down to removing the already delidded IHS and reapplying thermal paste in 15 minutes now LOL because I have done it atleast 10x today!!!


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## Sasqui (Mar 27, 2013)

amp281 said:


> Thats really fast for 10 minutes.



Ok, I admit!  Add 15 minutes for a drink break.


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## Frogger (Mar 28, 2013)

amp281 said:


> Also it doesnt want to disperse as I'm spreading it. It stays in a bead.



See the vid about spreading it


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## John Pombrio (Jun 4, 2013)

*Delidded i7-3770K. Touchy reseating...*

My first post here, heh.
 Anyone know how to better clamp a delidded CPU? Mine is extremely touchy while clamping it down.

I successfully delided my i7-3770K chip using the vice method. Did not need to strike very hard either. Worked great!
 I cleaned the sealing material and old thermal paste on the chip and lid and put Arctic 5 on  the chip (good enough for me).
 The big hassle was getting the CPU to boot. For some reason, I had to reseat and reclamp the CPU about 15 times before it booted. As it is, I can only screw down 3 of the 4 heatsink screws and still boot (CM Hyper 212 EVO air on ASUS P8Z77-V Deluxe mobo).
  I am getting a good stable o/c at 4.3GHz now. Temp is a little higher than I like with AIDA 64 stability test (80C max, but averages 73-74C). What is nice is that I am no longer getting random glitches when running above 4.1GHz. I left the voltage on Auto.
 Worth the trouble as long as the damn chip keeps running!


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