# Very New to Water Cooling, Need All the Help I Can Get!



## blu3flannel (Aug 15, 2010)

I ordered some (new and used) water cooling parts off both here, Danger Den and Frozen CPU. I'm very new to water cooling, meaning I've never done it before. The closest I've come is using an H50 for a while. I need help setting everything up and will give a parts list so you can tell me if anything's missing, and I'll need a setup guide after that. If you need pictures of parts/my current setup I'll be happy to oblige. 

Here's the parts list:

1 Swiftech 120mm rad
1 Koolance 120.2 rad
3 fans (2 for the 120.2, 1 for the 120mm rad)
blue 3/8 tubing
black 3/8 tubing
distilled water
OCZ Hydro Pulse 500 pump
Danger Den TDX CPU block
1156 Lucite top ( I don't think I bought a backplate, if anyone knows how to ghetto one up let me know how )
3/8s T-line
T-line fillport
mounting hardware

I have most of the mounting hardware and will be getting more here in a few days, but it's enough to make everything work. Please let me know how to set everything up. 

PS- I already put in the 120.2 rad and two fans for it in the top of the case (a CM 690 II Advanced) so don't worry about that. I'll also be putting in the 120mm rad in the back of the case but if anyone has any suggestions feel free to make them!


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## JrRacinFan (Aug 15, 2010)

OK , easiest way is to put everything in the spots where you want them to be. I suggest running the tubing from the outlet of the pump to the highest point in the loop first and reservoir being last before the pump. Remembver the the best flowing outlet of your reservoir is it's lowest point. 

EDIT: 

Noticed you have a T-Line, put it at the end of your loop as close to the pump as you can.


EDIT2:
Use the stock mounting backplate if you can.


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## blu3flannel (Aug 15, 2010)

It didn't come with a backplate, the person who I got it from used AM2 and that's the only backplate it came with.


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## JrRacinFan (Aug 15, 2010)

Ahhhh ....


I see. You are going to have to either purchase a new block or mount.


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## blu3flannel (Aug 15, 2010)

Ohhhh, I have an idea. I'll come back when it works/doesn't work.


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## JrRacinFan (Aug 15, 2010)

http://www.dangerden.com/store/tdx-lucite-top-kit.html

You can purchase a backplate from there also.


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## blu3flannel (Aug 16, 2010)

That's what I purchased and it didn't come with one, just a top plate to mount the block. And I'm almost done, I got a little sidetracked.


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## JrRacinFan (Aug 16, 2010)

Oh. Well pics, must see when finishd. Make sure you pull the whole loop out before attempting to run it internally to leak test.


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## blu3flannel (Aug 16, 2010)

Alright, it works:



















Now I just have to reinstall the motherboard, install the pump and second rad, and map out the tubing.


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## sneekypeet (Aug 16, 2010)

ummm your block is on wrong.

Usually you screw a nut on the end of the rod and add a washer. Side that in from the back, then add washer and nut (tighten to motherboard). Set the block on the processor with TIM. Then there should be springs that set above the clear plastic, then top it with the brass thumbscrews. No back plate needed.


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## JrRacinFan (Aug 16, 2010)

Was just about to mention that as well peet. Move the springs to the top of the block blu3 or you will have problems, it's fine for now for you to map your tubing but will need to be switched.


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## blu3flannel (Aug 16, 2010)

Ahh, gotcha. Thanks for that, I'm gonna go fix it now.


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## blu3flannel (Aug 16, 2010)

Well, it may just be me, but the springs are impossibly hard to get on. Maybe it's the screw length or something, but this is insane.


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## sneekypeet (Aug 16, 2010)

the threaded rod does seem short in those pics. MAybe run to the hardware store and grab 4 longer ones in the morning. ( be sure to take a rod and a nut so you know they work )


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## ERazer (Aug 16, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> the threaded rod does seem short in those pics. MAybe run to the hardware store and grab 4 longer ones in the morning. ( be sure to take a rod and a nut so you know they work )



+1, and take ur time dont rush when building custom h20


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## blu3flannel (Aug 16, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> the threaded rod does seem short in those pics. MAybe run to the hardware store and grab 4 longer ones in the morning. ( be sure to take a rod and a nut so you know they work )



Yeah, that sounds like a good idea.  How much longer should they be, about half an inch or so?


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## sneekypeet (Aug 16, 2010)

mark the ones you have just above the clear plastic (sharpie marker comes to mind) then while you are in the store you can see what will work best. Remember you can always buy them longer, then cut them if they are in the way or odd looking.


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## blu3flannel (Aug 16, 2010)

Alright, that works for me.  So for now I at least have a way to map out the tubing, how should I do this? I have 2 rads, a pump, the block, and the T-line to consider. I also need help on placement, i.e. where I should put the T-line fill port and the pump. Any suggestions?


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## sneekypeet (Aug 16, 2010)

set it all up at your desk as is

play with a few ideas, rad up top and rad at the bottom if you are using the 690II still.

Then see what kinks the tubes and what allows for gentle bends


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## blu3flannel (Aug 16, 2010)

I've been juggling a couple of ideas, but I have a question that should probably be answered first: Which way is in and which is out? On the rads, the block, and the pump. Hopefully that question isn't too stupid.


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## JrRacinFan (Aug 16, 2010)

Technically, there is no inlet/outlet EXCEPT on the pump. You decide which is which on all the other parts.


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## blu3flannel (Aug 16, 2010)

That's awesome, and makes things much easier to route.  Which is in and which is out on the pump?


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## JrRacinFan (Aug 16, 2010)

That's what I'm looking for right now. Will edit my post.


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## sneekypeet (Aug 16, 2010)

centered in the side is the inlet. The barb up top is then the outlet.


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## blu3flannel (Aug 16, 2010)

Ah, thanks. Now I'm debating on whether or not I should put the pump in the 5.25" drive area, which would save tubing but would look very cluttered, or to put it in the bottom of the case, which would use more tubing but would look much more clean. Thoughts?


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## sneekypeet (Aug 16, 2010)

my loop spills out the door and onto the table currently, so Im little help here


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## MT Alex (Aug 16, 2010)

Yup, rads can go in or out either fitting, as well as most blocks, other than some D-Teks.  I have the DD MC TDX (a TDX designed for multi cores) and it doesn't matter which.

The first time I set up my loop (which was January of this year) I was all aflutter with wonder and doubt, now it all seems very easy and not at all spooky.  I mounted my rad and pump, and then put my block on without TIM, cut and ran all the tubing, and then removed my motherboard.  This allowed me to leak test without worry, and still use my computer set up with no case for the night.







Since then I've added another tripple rad and a DD block on my 5870.




Don't forget to leak test with a spare PSU, or jumper yours with a paper clip.


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## blu3flannel (Aug 16, 2010)

Wow, that's a nice setup you have there.  I think I'll set the loop outside the case and preserve the main components, there's a lot of cat and dog hair floating around. But if that wasn't the case then that would be an awesome way to do it. 

EDIT: Actually, I think I will do that, I'll just put the parts in their respective boxes. Thanks for the advice!


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## blu3flannel (Aug 16, 2010)

Uh-oh, the CPU block has sprung a leak!  What do I do? Should I caulk it or something?


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## brandonwh64 (Aug 16, 2010)

OK im here LOLZ just got off work! i worked 46 hrs this week. ok did the top you ordered from danger den have a rubber gasket? if so take the top back off and use some vaseline to coat the rubber and the top and block, this will help prevent leakage in the future and make sure you get a proper seating. Also like others said, you can make a mock up on card board or in your case of how you want this loop to run. its totally case dependent.  Once you get the leak fixed and you have it mounted, we can walk you through bleeding the T-Line. i dont know if you have a old PSu or something around but you could use that to bleed the line cause it take turning the pump on and off to get the air bubbles out.


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## MT Alex (Aug 16, 2010)

blu3flannel said:


> Uh-oh, the CPU block has sprung a leak!  What do I do? Should I caulk it or something?



Make sure you didn't tighten the screws on your top too much.  If you overtighten them (it's very easy to do) the rubber O-ring will mash out of place.  Usually a half turn past finger tight will do.


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## ERazer (Aug 16, 2010)

MT Alex said:


> Yup, rads can go in or out either fitting, as well as most blocks, other than some D-Teks.  I have the DD MC TDX (a TDX designed for multi cores) and it doesn't matter which.
> 
> The first time I set up my loop (which was January of this year) I was all aflutter with wonder and doubt, now it all seems very easy and not at all spooky.  I mounted my rad and pump, and then put my block on without TIM, cut and ran all the tubing, and then removed my motherboard.  This allowed me to leak test without worry, and still use my computer set up with no case for the night.
> 
> ...



again nice rig bud  wat fan?


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## blu3flannel (Aug 16, 2010)

MT Alex said:


> Make sure you didn't tighten the screws on your top too much.  If you overtighten them (it's very easy to do) the rubber O-ring will mash out of place.  Usually a half turn past finger tight will do.



I turned it every which way and it still leaks, although I got it to leak an incredibly small amount. I'll bleed all the water out and try brandonwh's method and any other suggestions when I get home today.


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## sneekypeet (Aug 16, 2010)

where exactly is the leak coming from? Is it from between the copper and clear plastic, or is it possibly from a barb/fitting?


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## MT Alex (Aug 16, 2010)

ERazer said:


> again nice rig bud  wat fan?



Thanks
My dual 120 only has Slipstreams, which dont have that good of static pressure, but there is a 230mm right above it for push/pull.  My tripple has these Panflo L1s, and I love them:  http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_403&products_id=876


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## blu3flannel (Aug 16, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> where exactly is the leak coming from? Is it from between the copper and clear plastic, or is it possibly from a barb/fitting?



It's from in between the copper and the lucite, and I fiddled with it a little more and I think it's stopped. I'll have to fill up the loop the rest of the way to find out.

EDIT: it's still doing it, the thing is that it doesn't do it where it would be mounted on the CPU, but it does it when it's below it. It might be that water isn't getting to it where the CPU is, I'm not sure. I don't think I have the loop set up correctly. 

EDIT 2: It seems that I put have the pump going the wrong way, could this affect the leakage in any way?


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## MT Alex (Aug 17, 2010)

Pump direction shouldn't cause a leak.  Can you upload any pics?


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## blu3flannel (Aug 17, 2010)

OH MY GOD, I just realized what it was. I had the Danger Den logo on the bottom where it was making contact with the O ring and it was leaking through the engraved logo. F my life.  Well, at least I don't have to worry about that anymore.


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## JrRacinFan (Aug 17, 2010)

Ahhhhhhh .....

That explains it! How far along are u in building the loop?


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## blu3flannel (Aug 17, 2010)

Right now I'm adding water, I'm not sure how far along in that I am though.


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## MT Alex (Aug 17, 2010)

Glad it was something simple, not bad hardware.


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## blu3flannel (Aug 17, 2010)

MT Alex said:


> Glad it was something simple, not bad hardware.



Yeah, that would've been a disaster.  So can someone walk me through the process of filling the loop? I've already put about 1/4 of a gallon into it, how do I know it's full? How do I get the bubbles out?


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## MT Alex (Aug 17, 2010)

blu3flannel said:


> Yeah, that would've been a disaster.  So can someone walk me through the process of filling the loop? I've already put about 1/4 of a gallon into it, how do I know it's full? How do I get the bubbles out?



This is pretty good:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=777JcqPVgLU


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## blu3flannel (Aug 17, 2010)

MT Alex said:


> This is pretty good:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=777JcqPVgLU



Are there different procedures for a T-line? Do I fill it differently, or is it the same premise?


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## MT Alex (Aug 17, 2010)

Same premise, but I would imagine it's a little harder since you can't see the level in the res.  Just keep filling and cycling your pump until the water stays at a constant level in your T-line.  Then just let it keep running to get the air out, and add water as your levels drop because of air that is being released.


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## JrRacinFan (Aug 17, 2010)

It takes alot of water to fill that Koolance rad.


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## blu3flannel (Aug 17, 2010)

MT Alex said:


> Same premise, but I would imagine it's a little harder since you can't see the level in the res.  Just keep filling and cycling your pump until the water stays at a constant level in your T-line.  Then just let it keep running to get the air out, and add water as your levels drop because of air that is being released.





JrRacinFan said:


> It takes alot of water to fill that Koolance rad.



It's pretty often that the pump will rev up and there will be a trickling noise from the Swiftech rad, does it have a reservoir in it or something? It's really hard to fill up...


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## JrRacinFan (Aug 17, 2010)

blu3flannel said:


> It's pretty often that the pump will rev up and there will be a trickling noise from the Swiftech rad, does it have a reservoir in it or something? It's really hard to fill up...



Keep cycling the pump. It will go and start flowing for you. Make sure you check the barbs for leaks just in case.


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## blu3flannel (Aug 17, 2010)

It's doing much better now, it rarely does it. I just keep filling it up and it happens less and less often. The barbs have hose clamps on them, and I've double checked and they're doing fine. I'm going to put paper towel down to see if it leaks, so we'll see what happens. Well, as I'm typing this sentence, the trickling sound is getting more frequent, but if I run it for a long time it barely does it. Is that normal?

EDIT: Now bubbles are running through it the whole time, and it won't really fill up. It just pumps bubbles through constantly, not every now and then like it was earlier.


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## JrRacinFan (Aug 17, 2010)

Shake the pump a little with it turned off. Sound like little bit of air stuck in there.


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## blu3flannel (Aug 17, 2010)

JrRacinFan said:


> Shake the pump a little with it turned off. Sound like little bit of air stuck in there.



It really sounds like it's coming from just the 120mm Swiftech rad, it sounds like bubbling water coming from it, then it's fine, then it happens again. It's kinda weird.


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## JrRacinFan (Aug 17, 2010)

You still have it at the top of the case? May want to remove it then and make it the lowest point and put it lower than the pump just so you can get proper flow.


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## MT Alex (Aug 17, 2010)

It'll quit doing that soon.  My Swifty is a duel, mounted on the top.  When it first gets filled it sounds like a noisy little brook, surrounded with moss and wildflowers, and huckelberries and honeysuckles crowd its banks.  It really is a nice noise - but then it quits.


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## blu3flannel (Aug 17, 2010)

It's on the back of the case, where the back fan is mounted. If I just lift the pump higher will that do the trick?


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## sneekypeet (Aug 17, 2010)

if the T-line is sealed, carefully and slowly tip the case back and forth to work the air out


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## blu3flannel (Aug 17, 2010)

MT Alex said:


> It'll quit doing that soon.  My Swifty is a duel, mounted on the top.  When it first gets filled it sounds like a noisy little brook, surrounded with moss and wildflowers, and huckelberries and honeysuckles crowd its banks.  It really is a nice noise - but then it quits.



 That was beautifully put, sir.  So how long should I wait, an hour or so?


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## MT Alex (Aug 17, 2010)

blu3flannel said:


> So how long should I wait, an hour or so?



Seems like mine quits after 15 min or so, but it will continue to slosh, gurgle and plink for a while.  If I leak test overnight, sometimes I will hear it in the wee hours, you know, when you have to get up and wee


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## blu3flannel (Aug 17, 2010)

MT Alex said:


> Seems like mine quits after 15 min or so, but it will continue to slosh, gurgle and plink for a while.  If I leak test overnight, sometimes I will hear it in the wee hours, you know, when you have to get up and wee



Haha, so should I just leave it on overnight to leak test and see if it still does it?


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## MT Alex (Aug 17, 2010)

I'd try what Sneeky suggested.  Turn your pump off, make sure your T is closed, and put your case on its side (both directions) and on its back.  If something is up, you'll hear the air move around.  Heck, if you're brave, turn it upside down for a second.


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## sneekypeet (Aug 17, 2010)

be sure to keep an eye on the res, so you dont end up pulling in more air


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## blu3flannel (Aug 17, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> if the T-line is sealed, carefully and slowly tip the case back and forth to work the air out





MT Alex said:


> I'd try what Sneeky suggested.  Turn your pump off, make sure your T is closed, and put your case on its side (both directions) and on its back.  If something is up, you'll hear the air move around.  Heck, if you're brave, turn it upside down for a second.



I did that, and when I did, no air sounds were made, even if I shook it somewhat violently. And I don't think I'm brave enough to turn it upside down.  So letting it sit overnight should do the trick?


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## blu3flannel (Aug 17, 2010)

Hmmm.... Could it be that the pump isn't strong enough to get the water through 5 feet or tubing, 1 120mm rad, 1 120.2 rad, and the CPU block? Maybe it's just me, but I think that's what it is.


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## sneekypeet (Aug 17, 2010)

little hard to gauge now, without a res and all. Have you booted the PC to look at temperatures yet?


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## MT Alex (Aug 17, 2010)

I just looked up your pump, and it should be adequate for your loop.  Take a flashlight and hold it to your tubing.  You should see a bunch of tiny bubbles whizzing by.  If you do, your pump is working fine.  

Maybe I'm not picturing the noise right.  Is it cavitation in the radiatior or gurgling in the pump?


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## blu3flannel (Aug 17, 2010)

MT Alex said:


> I just looked up your pump, and it should be adequate for your loop.  Take a flashlight and hold it to your tubing.  You should see a bunch of tiny bubbles whizzing by.  If you do, your pump is working fine.
> 
> Maybe I'm not picturing the noise right.  Is it cavitation in the radiatior or gurgling in the pump?



Hmmm, when I do the flashlight thing, all the tubes look like how you described them except the one coming from the 120mm rad, which is only 2/3 filled with water. From there it only 2/3 fills the CPU block which is filled with bubbles.


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## erocker (Aug 17, 2010)

Are you turing the pump off and on to stabilize the pressure?


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## MT Alex (Aug 17, 2010)

That is very odd.  I'm not sure, hopefully you just need to add more water to your loop, or there is some type of restriction in your rad, which I doubt.

One thing to consider, most fill tubes with a T line are at the top of the case, kind of like the mounts on the HAF 932.  If yours isn't, you'll have to tilt your case to ensure there is enough water.

It's darn peculiar how the tube coming down from your rad to the cpu block is only 2/3 full. When you have time, make a sketch of your loop, and the directions of your flow.  It will help us visualize, and maybe help you troubleshoot.  Better yet, get some pics. Good luck.


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## sneekypeet (Aug 17, 2010)

I usually squeeze the tubes

doing so just before or even at an air bubble should increase the pressure of the flow in that area and help move the bubbles...by squeeze I mean repeated squeezing of the tube in that area for like a 1 mississippi count. see if that doesn't help.


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## blu3flannel (Aug 17, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> I usually squeeze the tubes
> 
> doing so just before or even at an air bubble should increase the pressure of the flow in that area and help move the bubbles...by squeeze I mean repeated squeezing of the tube in that area for like a 1 mississippi count. see if that doesn't help.



I did this, and it worked for a little bit, but then it goes back to sounding like a babbling brook. I turned it on its side and ran it for a while and it was fine then, but I set it back up and it seem to help a little bit. Oh, and here's a picture of the routing. I used my phone's camera because my real one is dead, but hopefully you can see enough to understand it.








BIG EDIT: the loop is now much quieter, with just a few bubble sounds every couple of minutes, and happening less and less often as we speak. Should I just leave it for a 24 hour leak test and then call it then?


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## sneekypeet (Aug 17, 2010)

with it all loose like it is, I would in fact raise the pump and lower the block. Do what it takes to move those bubbles out of it.


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## blu3flannel (Aug 17, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> with it all loose like it is, I would in fact raise the pump and lower the block. Do what it takes to move those bubbles out of it.



It's fine now, it makes no sound whatsoever minus the pump. The suggestion of tilting the case on its side and running it helped a lot, as did squishing the tubes.  Should I just go ahead with the 24 hour leak test?


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## sneekypeet (Aug 17, 2010)

yes


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## blu3flannel (Aug 17, 2010)

Alrighty, I'll come back with a full report in 24-ish hours. Now it's time for sleep.


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## blu3flannel (Aug 17, 2010)

Well, it was working fine, except the only thing that's wrong now is a very minute drip coming from where the hose attaches to one of the fittings on the Koolance rad. I tightened the hose clamp a whole lot more and it still does it. Suggestions?


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## brandonwh64 (Aug 17, 2010)

WOW Blu3! it looks great inside this case! do as i posted in the last PM i sent you this morning and see if that helps. its looking REALLY good! also later on you could get a 5.25in bay res like i have and that would help when refilling the loop and cleaning. once you get the rest of the parts in there it will be VERY nice! 

Do you plan  on some cold cathodes or UV lighting? that hose would look good with UV it would seem!






*EDIT*

This is something like i have and they are cheap!

http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...oduct_info&cPath=59_318_665&products_id=22014


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## JrRacinFan (Aug 17, 2010)

Ygpm blu3. We may have a problem. Just confirming you are using 3/8"?


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## blu3flannel (Aug 17, 2010)

JrRacinFan said:


> Ygpm blu3. We may have a problem. Just confirming you are using 3/8"?



Yeah, but it's all good, I put more Teflon tape around the top and it hasn't leaked for a couple of hours and counting. I'll let it go till later tonight then I'll put everything together and get some temps.


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## MT Alex (Aug 18, 2010)

Awesome!


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## blu3flannel (Aug 18, 2010)

Alright, I'm going to start putting everything back together, wish me luck!


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## sneekypeet (Aug 18, 2010)

good luck, just be gentle on everything as not to disturb the fittings too bad. Once you get it all in place and ready to boot, I would keep an eye on things for a few to be positive things are still good


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## blu3flannel (Aug 18, 2010)

Okay, it's finished, anything I should do/remember before I turn it on?


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## sneekypeet (Aug 18, 2010)

maybe lay some towels in it for the first hour just to be sure you dont have an accident, other than that you should be good to go.

Just be sure to get something like realtemp going asap so you can make sure the mounting and everything is ok to load the system.


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## blu3flannel (Aug 18, 2010)

Well, I'm on my computer right now, and the temps (at stock with 1v Vcore) are topping out at 43C. Should I wait a while to overclock, or should I just dive into it? Is there anything I should know about overclocking on water?


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## sneekypeet (Aug 18, 2010)

thats the loaded temp at stock clocks?

Also WTF its almost 5AM....lol you are ready to clock now?

To answer the latter question, there is no difference. Usually the outcome is the same clocks with slightly less voltage (due to being a bit cooler) which can lead to a higher overclock. Plus there is the advantage of being able to disperse more heat (IE allowing for more Vcore to be used).


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## blu3flannel (Aug 18, 2010)

Yeah, is that bad?


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## sneekypeet (Aug 18, 2010)

no that temp is fine, just making sure that it wasnt idle temps

Its up to you, if you didnt use something like AS5 for TIM you dont have a set in time, so the temp you get now is it. Just play by the same rules as you would on air and follow the editied info above and you will be fine.

Oh I almost forgot....get to clocking!!!!!


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## blu3flannel (Aug 18, 2010)

Haha, thanks.  And I did use AS5, how long does that take to set in?


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## sneekypeet (Aug 18, 2010)

something like 200 hours of use with various temperature cycles if I remember right. Dont worry, in the end its good for 2 maybe 3 degrees.

Also with this chip after 4ghz its going to get hot, so dont be shocked if it jumps in temperature at or above that level


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## blu3flannel (Aug 18, 2010)

Alright, as soon as the Mafia 2 demo finishes I'll take it to 4GHz and see how it does, then try some other stuff tomorrow. It's really late here, but this was worth it.


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## sneekypeet (Aug 18, 2010)

congrats. Now you get to wake up to it finished and ready. Great way to start the morning, the smell of voltage on dew filled air. Mmmmmmm


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## blu3flannel (Aug 18, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> congrats. Now you get to wake up to it finished and ready. Great way to start the morning, the smell of voltage on dew filled air. Mmmmmmm



Haha, I can't wait.  It's like Christmas, except I paid for it and it wasn't shoved down a chimney.


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## brandonwh64 (Aug 18, 2010)

Nice!! cant wait to see 4ghz on that loop!


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## blu3flannel (Aug 18, 2010)

brandonwh64 said:


> Nice!! cant wait to see 4ghz on that loop!



Well, it's here, and i get about 62C with Prime running full blast. I can probably lower the voltage and get lower temps, but we'll see.


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## kyle2020 (Aug 18, 2010)

Lets see some full build pictures then!


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## blu3flannel (Aug 19, 2010)

kyle2020 said:


> Lets see some full build pictures then!



I'll pump a few out here in the next couple of hours, I have to do some work.  Soon though.


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## blu3flannel (Aug 19, 2010)

Sorry for the "meh" picture quality, but here's the finished product. 











Two with the side panel off, just different lighting.





A profile one with the side panel off.





The CPU block, looking pretty spiffy. 










For these two of the pump, how should I mount it? It doesn't have mounting holes in the bottom and I'm not really sure how to deal with it. Maybe Velcro?





The Koolance 120.1 rad.





The Swiftech 120mm rad.


What do you think?  I'm thinking about a new graphics card, but other than that...


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## sneekypeet (Aug 19, 2010)

looks good. Might ponder setting the pump in the 5.25" bays


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## blu3flannel (Aug 19, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> looks good. Might ponder setting the pump in the 5.25" bays



Ehh, then there would be all that extra tubing that I used to put the pump down there all everywhere.  I think it looks better when it's less congested and has some room. I'm thinking velcro, I'm gonna go to the hardware store tomorrow anyway so I might pick some up.


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## sneekypeet (Aug 19, 2010)

For now I would leave it be too. looks clean and you can get the card and ram out without pulling the loop, so if any OCing goes south you can tinker without needing to disrupt the loop.


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## MT Alex (Aug 19, 2010)

Nicely done  I'm a sucker for blue tubing.

I've been wondering:  What was the major motivation with going with a T-Line as opposed to a res?


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## blu3flannel (Aug 19, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> For now I would leave it be too. looks clean and you can get the card and ram out without pulling the loop, so if any OCing goes south you can tinker without needing to disrupt the loop.



Agreed.  This thing is already at 4GHz, and I know I can lower the voltage and get better temps. Vdroop is killing me though.


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## sneekypeet (Aug 19, 2010)

does the board have load line calibration or Vdroop control in the bios? usually in the voltage section.


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## JrRacinFan (Aug 19, 2010)

Wow!!! Looks very very good blu3!!! Congrats on the nice looking first time loop.


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## blu3flannel (Aug 19, 2010)

JrRacinFan said:


> Wow!!! Looks very very good blu3!!! Congrats on the nice looking first time loop.



Thanks, I was surprised about how well it turned out, it's a pleasant surprise though.  Can't wait to get a good GPU in and get that in the loop as well.


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## joytime360 (Aug 20, 2010)

JrRacinFan said:


> Wow!!! Looks very very good blu3!!! Congrats on the nice looking first time loop.



awesome!!


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## brandonwh64 (Aug 20, 2010)

Well i knew that i would make a H50 owner happy with a custom loop! it worked out perfect for both!


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## blu3flannel (Aug 20, 2010)

sneekypeet said:


> does the board have load line calibration or Vdroop control in the bios? usually in the voltage section.



Yeah, I have it set to low, as I was told to do by a video overclocking guide.



brandonwh64 said:


> Well i knew that i would make a H50 owner happy with a custom loop! it worked out perfect for both!



Yeah, most definitely, I'm lovin' it!


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