# So sad and at a loss



## Ultra Taco (Apr 25, 2013)

Ohla.

             Yesterday I finished building my new computer. It is a brand new custom Vishera system... and my first.

I I plugged everything in where it it supposed to go, checked and re-checked.

It would not turn on.

I replaced the cable from the corsair tx750 power supply, I bought another xfx 650 ps thinking it could be that... It also does not work.

My new monitor from the same power outlet and cord works fine.

I haven't tried short circuting the mother board yet, before asking the community. I've spent all my money on this computer, and don't have enough for anything


I want to die... Any advice would be sooooooooooooo appreciated... I don't have the cash to take it to a pc repair place... Such a noob

I haven't plugged things back in since the second power supply didn't work either, just in case you might point that out in the photos.

Thank you


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## mlee49 (Apr 25, 2013)

Um, does your motherboard have the 8-pin connector that is required for the system to work?

If it does have that connector on the motherboard, plug in the 8-pin connector from the power supply.

just from looking at the pictures its not connected


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## erocker (Apr 25, 2013)

Flip the connector for your power button on the motherboard. (lower right side)  Also, make sure your CMOS jumper isn't in the reset position.


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## Frick (Apr 25, 2013)

erocker said:


> Flip the connector for your power button on the motherboard. (lower right side)



Doesn't matter.


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## Jetster (Apr 25, 2013)

Stick to the basics. Bench test time. This happens all the time to new builders. Its probably a short on the case or something is install wrong


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## erocker (Apr 25, 2013)

Frick said:


> Doesn't matter.



Huh? If you're actually refering to what I said, you're wrong.


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## Aquinus (Apr 25, 2013)

The last time I heard someone have this problem, it was actually a bad switch on the case. Try shorting the power pins.


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## Lazermonkey (Apr 25, 2013)

Yeah it appears he doesn't have that 8 pin connected.


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## Aquinus (Apr 25, 2013)

Lazermonkey said:


> Yeah it appears he doesn't have that 8 pin connected.



I think someone needs to read the first post again.



Ultra Taco said:


> I haven't plugged things back in since the second power supply didn't work either, just in case you might point that out in the photos.


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## Jetster (Apr 25, 2013)

First step in building a PC. Set the motherboard on a non conductive surface. Install the CPU, stock heat sink and one stick of mem. Plug in PSU 24 pin and CPU power. Plug in monitor and short the two front panel power pins see if it starts a post power on system test


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## d1nky (Apr 25, 2013)

rebuild it and take your time, and like the others said make sure nothing is shorting.

if nothing then, process of elimitation

psu you can tick off the list.


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## Lazermonkey (Apr 25, 2013)

Aquinus said:


> I think someone needs to read the first post again.



DOH!


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## Jetster (Apr 25, 2013)

List all the parts also.


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## OneMoar (Apr 25, 2013)

is the switch on the back of the power supply on and is the voltage switch set to 110/115(assuming you are in america )
also are your outlets properly grounded ? and have you tested the psu by its self ?
and no erocker unless its a 3 pin switch OR a relay style switch the orientation of the power switch lead won't matter all it does is complete a Circuit


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## Frick (Apr 25, 2013)

erocker said:


> Huh? If you're actually refering to what I said, you're wrong.



Either I'm drunk (which I'm not) or I have misunderstood something. Power buttons (modern ones, not the old AT ones) shorts the pins. Unless there is a mechanical problem. Or do they have diodes or something now?


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## erocker (Apr 25, 2013)

Frick said:


> Either I'm drunk (which I'm not) or I have misunderstood something. Power buttons (modern ones, not the old AT ones) shorts the pins. Unless there is a mechanical problem. Or do they have diodes or something now?



They're different. On my Lian Li case and another generic case I have, the connector only works one way. With my Corsair case (which I just tried) it will work either way. So, I guess we're both half wrong. 

@OneMoar. No. It makes sense but it doesn't seem to be the case with some switches.


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## OneMoar (Apr 25, 2013)

erocker said:


> They're different. On my Lian Li case and another generic case I have, the connector only works one way. With my Corsair case (which I just tried) it will work either way. So, I guess we're both half wrong.
> 
> @OneMoar. No. It makes sense but it doesn't seem to be the case with some switches.



sooo Li lan defies the laws of electricity this is interesting
I want a video of this can you test it with a meter .
I wonder if the switch is connected to some IC or something does the case have a display or fan controler ?
EDIT: OOOO nm I know why 
if the power button has a LED that draws power right from the switch pins and they used a DIODE or something that would explain it


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## erocker (Apr 25, 2013)

OneMoar said:


> sooo Li lan defies the laws of electricity this is interesting
> I want a video of this can you test it with a meter .
> I wonder if the switch is connected to some IC or something does the case have a display or fan controler ?



I'm going to say it's magic and non-believers be damned. Sorry if my response doesn't satisfy you.


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## OneMoar (Apr 25, 2013)

erocker said:


> I'm going to say it's magic and non-believers be damned.



see my reply


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## erocker (Apr 25, 2013)

OneMoar said:


> see my reply



DIODE, magic... Yes! 


Seriously though, good call.


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## jaredudu (Apr 25, 2013)

I know the feeling when a newly built computer does not power on... When I built my first computer at 13 I didn't use standoffs in the case and fried the motherboard


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## Ultra Taco (Apr 25, 2013)

*Omg*

Wow... Thank you so incredibly much for your replies. I stepped away for an hour and you guys... Thank you.

Here are the system components

MSI 99fx gd65 v2.0
NZXT KRAKEN X40
8gb Corsair Vengence
7870 myst powercolor
samsung ssd pro 128
Vishera 8350
Corsair tx750
Sentey optimus 6000 case


What power connecter are you saying is on the bottom right side of the motherboard? Do you mean the jumpers you guys said to short?

In the post pictures the cables were disconnected but everything was previously connected with two different expensive power supplies when I tried with them.

What could be shorting if that is the issue? I used everything the mobo came with, used a static grounding braclet and almost didn't breathe when I installed everything because I was so nervous...

There is no power at all. No beeping, no power supply sound, just silence. 

I will attach some "more better" pictures

Thank you guys so much.


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## FR@NK (Apr 25, 2013)

Ultra Taco said:


> Here are the system components
> 
> MSI 99fx gd65 v2.0
> NZXT KRAKEN X40
> ...



You might need an updated BIOS to support that processor.


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## Norton (Apr 25, 2013)

One item I saw in the pic:

Your cpu cooler lead should be attached to the 4 pin header (top of board near the memory slots). The board may require feedback from the cpu fan in order to POST.

your FX cpu may not be supported by your BIOS revision but we'll check some more of the basics first


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## brandonwh64 (Apr 25, 2013)

Missing the 8 pin CPU plug


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## xvi (Apr 25, 2013)

I'm going to agree with a lot of people here and say photos *with* everything plugged in as it was would help.

I see OP has a speaker hooked up, so we should be getting POST codes. If system fans won't even spin up, I'd say motherboard.

Also, OP, if you could be more descriptive of what happens (or doesn't) when you hit the power button. I'd make absolutely sure your power switch is hooked up properly.


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## Ultra Taco (Apr 25, 2013)

So the nothing will turn on with the new vishera processor because the bios isn't updated?


To Norton: The nzxt cooler instructions don't say to plug into the 4 pin cpu cooler, it say to connect fant to pump fan output cable and then to connect 3 pin power cable from pump to cpu 3 power on the motherboard.

To brandon: The 8pin is unplugged along with everything. After I tested another XFX Core edition Pro that I bought as a replacement thinking it was the power supply, I unplugged everything to be cautious of hurting the computer... 

But it gave me the same result of.... Nothing. But I did indeed connect everything where it should be, the only places they can go, following the mobo instructions to the letter when I tried. In these photos everything is disconnected, but when I tested they were connected properly.

I will hook everything back up now and repost some updated pictures asap

Thank you so much techpower up community!


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## Huddo93 (Apr 25, 2013)

I would take the components out of the case, find a nice big piece of cardboard or wood (non conductive surface) and set up the computer on that, it will allow you to work on the computer much more easily, swap and test, and send us some much clearer photos. It would seem to me that the motherboard could be causing problems. If it was the processor (outdated bios) wouldn't you be getting at-least some part through the boot process? (not 100% sure, never built on AM3+). Which leaves the motherboard I would believe.

Please build the computer outside the case, and plug everything in, and then send us some new pictures. We need to make sure your aren't making any simple mistakes in the build process 

Fingers crossed we can help you figure out the source of the problem. Nothing worse than spending money and feeling like it was a complete waste.

Edit: Grammar/Spelling


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## Ultra Taco (Apr 25, 2013)

*Grrr*

I plugged everything in and took some updated photos, but achieved failure once again.

Norton: I put the 4 pin cpu fan in the socket after everything was plugged in and it didn't work

Everything is hooked up all flush, nothing happens when I push the power button..

Funny, I fixed two seniors computers today and they complemented me on my computer knowledge... I do know a lot about the components as far as the reviews and all the countless hours of research I've done because I;m a fan... But as I've recently discovered.... I'm a noob


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## Ultra Taco (Apr 25, 2013)

Thanks for your reply huddo93, I will take it out I guess.

 I would like to wait a half an hour more before doing that though, just incase someone can look at the updated photos and point out something I've been missing or suggest another problem or idea. 

Thanks once again


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## jsfitz54 (Apr 25, 2013)

Maybe I missed it but did you try shorting the power on pins as suggested?

That is the two wire lead that goes from the power button to the board.  You can use a screw driver to touch both pins at the same time. 

Also, make sure the 24 pin is fully seated and the plastic retention clip is solid.  Same with 8 pin.

Did you put any cables between the case and the back of the motherboard to hide wires?  The solder points on the back can pierce a wire and cause a short.

CPU fan header pin needs to be used: at the top of board above cpu slightly to the right.


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## PHaS3 (Apr 25, 2013)

I have the same board and never had the issue you seem to have. If everything is plugged in correctly, as everyone else has suggested, the you might need a bios update for Vishera processor support. 

I am up to date with the BIOS on my board, but I have a Phenom II 1100T so never had cpu support issues. 

Bios updates can be found here:

http://www.msi.com/product/mb/990FXA-GD65.html#/?div=BIOS

Do at your own risk.


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## Ultra Taco (Apr 25, 2013)

Thanks for you advice and nice fish!

Which one should I short? There is no two pin connecter, only something named jbat1 which the manual says is the cmos header? I don't know..

I had the new bios loaded on to a flash drive and ready to go once power was established.. Do you really think the CPU　would cause everything to be unpowered including the fans? I will uninstall the cpu if you think that's case.

All the power connectors are firmly and evenly in place and inserted into their designated outlets. I was routing the cables through the back for management and took off the back panel to see if the cable could be shorting the mobo but they weren't, they were all on the metal protective casing not in contact with the mobo.

Thanks again... I'm about ready to jump off a bridge though... This was sucha big investment for me..


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## PHaS3 (Apr 25, 2013)

As was suggested before, you could take everything out of the chassis, run the motherboard etc flat on a clean, dry surface. This would eliminate any possibility of something shorting the board. You would need to short the power connector (the pins the power switch on the chassis connects to). Chances are if you are unsure which these are it could possibly be that you plugged the power button into the incorrect pins. 

I've seen a few machines not show any signs of life due to a short under the board. If the above works, then check the chassis motherboard tray for debris or anything else causing a short.


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## jsfitz54 (Apr 25, 2013)

*short the #8 and #6 pins.*






*SEE BOTTOM RIGHT*






By shorting I mean you put a screwdriver blade between the pins for a few seconds, just like when you cold boot and press a switch for on, you don't hold the switch in for a long time.  Your just touching the 2 pins briefly.


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## D007 (Apr 25, 2013)

Soo easy to plug into the wrong pins.. basically what you are doing is creating your own power button.. Just in the form of a screwdriver..lol.. So if there is a mechanical failure in the button, it won't matter..  

I am hoping you took everything out of the case, as has been recommended. You really need to remove possibilities at this point and that's the way to do it.. Could simply have a bad power button on the chasis or something..


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## PHaS3 (Apr 25, 2013)

Here is a post i made a while back in the Your PC ATM thread. From it you should be able to see all the cables you need to connect to get the board to boot. 

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2808492&postcount=22756

You cant see the order of the front panel connectors nicely, but jsfitz54 kindly supplied the layout for you from the manual.


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## d1nky (Apr 25, 2013)

this is his first build and hes getting a barrage of the same information, and people keep saying plug stuff in when he explained all that! someone needs to help him and keep it simple. and no way are you going to flash bios 1. without power and 2. without old cpu

possibly power failures are:

1. motherboard shorting on case
2. cpu needs updated bios
3. motherobard dead on arrival
4. connectors not in properly, this also means a pin could of came out somewhere.
5. damage to motherboard or connectors.
6. even the kettle lead could be broke
7. power supply dead or faulty connection x2
8. none of the above and something perculiar

now to solve these and eliminate each, take all components out, put stock cooler on, itll be easier for now, rebuild pc on a non conductive surface.

go through slowly and check and test everything, have one component in at a time and test for power, maybe use a voltmeter if you got one. (look on google for video where to test etc)

do the shorting of switch to test power everytime. repeat and use other psu just to be sure.
its possible your mobo could be dead, so examine it carefully.


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## de.das.dude (Apr 25, 2013)

here is my advice:

sell off all the extra bits you bought(650, chords etc)
then go to someone who actually does this kind of work. Look at him work, again experience, win win.

even though PC building is pretty easy, but its only easy for those who know how to. For a beginner it can be very confusing.\



judging by this thread you have very little idea of what you are doing, and i think there is a bout a 60% change you will end up destroying something.

so i strongly suggest you take it to someone who knows their stuff.



ultra taco:-
here are some common mistakes noobs make

1. They forget to turn on the power supply switch. not the mains switch but the switch at the back of the power supply.
2. They forget to connect the GPU/Graphics card/VGA power cables.
3. They forget to connect the CPU power cable
4. They incorrectly connect the front header pins.
5. They forget to remove the sticker at the back of the cooler
6. They plug the pump power jack to the CPU fan power jack(often screwing up the motherboard). you are supposed to plug the pump power directly to an output from the power supply.
7. force the CPU into the socket, bending the pins in many cases.
8. Not connect the 24pin cable tightly enough. Thanks to the cheap quality plastics used on boards these days, a lot of 24pin sockets are really hard to properly connect. How do you know its in properly? the small locking clip on the side will automatically fall into place.
9. Not connecting the CPU fan to the CPU fan header. a lot of motherboards will not boot/start unless done so. If you have a water cooling, plug a chassis fan or any other fan into the CPU fan socket.
10. although not a necessity, always reset your BIOS before the first start. this would help clear any settings left from the Q&C checks.
11. some people also forget to install the standoffs on the cabinet before installing motherboard.


PS: IMHO looking at the components and the fact that you said you dont have enough money to go to a technician, can only mean - you are either a miser, your honor is at stake, or this is some elaborate way to spam. since you have already bought the stuff and fit it in the cabinet, i doubt someone will take more than 40$ to do the rest.


also i dont understand why you are buying new things to check if the old thing is broken. Any good electronics store is supposed to give you a 30day replacement no questions asked.


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## Bo$$ (Apr 25, 2013)

de.das.dude said:


> judging by this thread you have very little idea of what you are doing, and i think there is a bout a 60% change you will end up destroying something.
> 
> so i strongly suggest you take it to someone who knows their stuff.



man... Learn to read. the only thing OP hasnt done is to manually short the pins on the mobo as he has explain atleast 5 times he disconnected everything just now. :shadedshu


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## de.das.dude (Apr 25, 2013)

OneMoar said:


> sooo Li lan defies the laws of electricity this is interesting
> I want a video of this can you test it with a meter .
> I wonder if the switch is connected to some IC or something does the case have a display or fan controler ?
> EDIT: OOOO nm I know why
> if the power button has a LED that draws power right from the switch pins and they used a DIODE or something that would explain it





Bo$$ said:


> man... Learn to read. the only thing OP hasnt done is to manually short the pins on the mobo as he has explain atleast 5 times he disconnected everything just now. :shadedshu



i do believe i dint say anything to offend him or anyone? 

let me quote him:-


Ultra Taco said:


> *What power connecter are you saying is on the bottom right side of the motherboard? Do you mean the jumpers you guys said to short?*



that is enough to let us know the extents of his knowledge. Also, this shows that he is impatient and did not bother to read the manual. Hell even after 5 years of assembling computers, i still spent a whole 10minutes reading the manual to my ASROCK 990FX EXtreme4 before i started building it. It a good read.


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## Mathragh (Apr 25, 2013)

I once had the same kind of thing with one of my early builds. Turns out I didn't correctly seat the CPU. Not sure if this has already been said before, but if he didnt try yet, he should reseat the CPU in the following manner:

Make sure that before you insert the CPU, the lever is in the upwards position, and when the CPU is inserted(watch the triangle, the triangle on the CPU(located at one of the corners) should match the triangle on your socket). After you put the CPU in, move the lever down. It should give some resistance before clipping into place. After this, you should be able to gently pull at the cpu without it leaving the socket.


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## btarunr (Apr 25, 2013)

Maybe your board isn't Vishera-ready (needs BIOS update)?

Get the cheapest AM3 Semporn you can find, and update BIOS with it.


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## Aquinus (Apr 25, 2013)

de.das.dude said:


> that is enough to let us know the extents of his knowledge. Also, this shows that he is impatient and did not bother to read the manual. Hell even after 5 years of assembling computers, i still spent a whole 10minutes reading the manual to my ASROCK 990FX EXtreme4 before i started building it. It a good read.



You can also safely short every pin on the front panel connector. It's not going to kill the board if you accidently short an LED pair or the reset pair. If you know what you're doing, you don't even need to read the manual because A: it's safe to test all of them. and B: a number of motherboard label it on the board itself.

I think one bit of clarification would be great: When you press the power button does power come on at all or does it stay completely dark? If it stays dark, it's not a compatibility problem. If the board didn't support Vishera it would at least come on and it just wouldn't post... or, if it's like the last Biostar board I used (AM2+ board with AM3 proc,) it would post with the AM3 processor but Windows would always BSOD on boot until the BIOS was updated.

From the sounds of it, it sounds like you're describing it staying completely black with absolutely no sign of life. If this is the case, I agree with everyone else. Take it out of the case and try assembling components on a wooden table or something. That way you can rule any shorts out, but if jumping the pin doesn't work and the PSU is known to be good (you can test this without any special hardware), it's the motherboard.


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## okidna (Apr 25, 2013)

btarunr said:


> Maybe your board isn't Vishera-ready (needs BIOS update)?
> 
> Get the cheapest AM3 *Semporn* you can find, and update BIOS with it.



Nice one, bta  

*@Ultra Taco* : You said that you have the MSI 990XA-GD65 *V2.0*, right? Then you don't need to update your BIOS. V2.0 is already using 19.9 BIOS which is this board's first BIOSes to support Vishera (another one is 20.2).

Try the "open case" suggestion here : http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2890989&postcount=28.


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## de.das.dude (Apr 25, 2013)

Aquinus said:


> You can also safely short every pin on the front panel connector. It's not going to kill the board if you accidently short an LED pair or the reset pair. If you know what you're doing, you don't even need to read the manual because A: it's safe to test all of them. and B: a number of motherboard label it on the board itself.
> 
> I think one bit of clarification would be great: When you press the power button does power come on at all or does it stay completely black? If it says black, it's not a compatibility problem. If the board didn't support Vishera it would at least come on and it just wouldn't post... or, if it's like the last Biostar board I used (AM2+ board with AM3 proc,) it would post with the AM3 processor but Windows would always BSOD on boot until the BIOS was updated.
> 
> From the sounds of it, it sounds like you're describing it staying completely black with absolutely no sign of life. If this is the case, I agree with everyone else. Take it out of the case and try assembling components on a wooden table or something. That way you can rule any shorts out, but if jumping the pin doesn't work and the PSU is known to be good (you can test this without any special hardware), it's the motherboard.




its safe, but sometimes the static on your body can flow into bad places. i sorted the wrong pins on my prev board once, and it wouldnt power on. i had to take the cmos battery out and leave it there. dont know why this happened, but its always better to be safe 


also Taco, try to listen for a faint click in your PSU everytime you turn the mains on, or the PC on. a faint click is definite tell tale that something is sorting.



To rule out the PSU, take a pair of tweezers, find the 24 pin jack of the PSU, and connect the green and any black wire (there is one right below it). no chance of shock, but try to stay insulated. the PSU should stay on as long as the green and back is sorted. if it doesnt turn on, your PSU is faulty.

also if it were a problem regarding Vishera compatibility i am sure it would start and the fans would atleast start spinning.


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## DigitalUK (Apr 25, 2013)

i cant see where it says v2 on the board, if its not you will need to update the bios as i had to do a build on one of these a while ago ,lucky for me i have a phenom II lying around. as you are new to this the system should turn on all fans etc will be running but system will not post.


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## Solaris17 (Apr 25, 2013)

does the case have case intrusion?

does the board even boot? 

it isnt a CPU compatability problem if the board isnt even trying to post.

please try building the system on a box


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## H82LUZ73 (Apr 25, 2013)

Ultra Taco said:


> I plugged everything in and took some updated photos, but achieved failure once again.
> 
> Norton: I put the 4 pin cpu fan in the socket after everything was plugged in and it didn't work
> 
> ...



Put your memory in the blue slot .......


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## okidna (Apr 25, 2013)

DigitalUK said:


> i cant see where it says v2 on the board, if its not you will need to update the bios as i had to do a build on one of these a while ago ,lucky for me i have a phenom II lying around. as you are new to this the system should turn on all fans etc will be running but system will not post.



Third picture from the left (above the VER 3.1, "MSI 990FXA-GD65V2") : http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2890960&postcount=22


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## Bo$$ (Apr 25, 2013)

de.das.dude said:


> i do believe i dint say anything to offend him or anyone?



It's every second post he keeps saying he disconnected the cables. It's not that you offended him, simply the fact you didn't even read half of the issue 

That quote was just bad english xD but yeah he isn't a pro. I want him to be helped out thats all


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## Aquinus (Apr 25, 2013)

Could you please answer my question? I'm still really confused on what is actually happening.


Aquinus said:


> When you press the power button does power come on at all or does it stay completely dark?


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## SaiZo (Apr 25, 2013)

erocker said:


> They're different. On my Lian Li case and another generic case I have, the connector only works one way. With my Corsair case (which I just tried) it will work either way. So, I guess we're both half wrong.
> 
> @OneMoar. No. It makes sense but it doesn't seem to be the case with some switches.



Was the same on my older Lian Li case - I accidentaly just put the leads in the wrong direction, and for some reason - it did not power on. Thankfully I always take a picture on my camera before removing things. And now on my Antec case, the switch was actually faulty, replaced it with an APEM industrial switch - never failed.


Could be a shorting somewhere? I remember I left a standoff that shouldn't have been there in a case once, and the system didn't power on.



@ultrataco: Do you have a multimeter? You could easily just test if the powerbutton is functional. Set the multimeter so it emits a sound when the test leads touch each other, now take them and place them (might need some extra pair of hands here) to the leads from the powerbuttons cord. Press the powerbutton. If you don't hear anything - faulty button.
_However_ it also depends on the switch itself.

The case I own, it had one of them "microswitches", and it was actually broken inside. So no contact was ever made when pushing the power button - system did not react.

Other than that, try as the others say: Remove the entire thing from the case and try it outside the box. Good luck!


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## jsfitz54 (Apr 25, 2013)

Even with the CPU being in question, with regards to Vishera and Bios version, the board should come on and you should get a message (black screen with white text) that the CPU is not compatible.  OR at least that's how the Intel P4 chips used to work.  I have not tried it in some time.

That's why so many expect the issue is a power short issue.
An incorrectly placed standoff or just an extra in the wrong spot can do it as well.
Shorting the power pins manually takes the issue of a bad mechanical switch out of the picture.

The other ideas about seating the CPU properly also apply.  The CPU should drop in, no resistance unless a pin is bent.  I always gave the CPU a little wiggle with my finger and held the CPU down while closing the lever.


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## DigitalUK (Apr 25, 2013)

its not how it works with newer boards, ive had it with AMD and Intel boards the system simply will not post.


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## SpookyWillow (Apr 25, 2013)

Take everything out of the case and put the MOBO on a table or the box it came in.

Connect only the PSU and the POWER switch from the front of the case (Make sure you connect this to the right terminals.) to the mobo.

Check your PSU lead is working (I know you changed PSU but did you change lead?)

Check plugs and PSU are switched on and then press the power button and listen.

If you hear nothing the board is dead.


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## jsfitz54 (Apr 25, 2013)

DigitalUK said:


> its not how it works with newer boards, ive had it with AMD and Intel boards the system simply will not post.



What about fans, etc..?  Some indication that the mobo is getting power?


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## Ultra Taco (Apr 25, 2013)

Sorry for the lack of responses, my net book died last night so I just gave up. I'm typing from the computer repair store I intern at now.

 No one really could suggest anything you guys have not suggested so far. Most of the problems here are viruses and malware/spyware.

 After This I teach in the afternoon till evening, so I will humbly come back here tonight and try to figure this thing out with your guy's help.

To those asking, nothing at all happens when I push the power button. No fans or lights, or even electric humming.

Thank you all so much, very cool and kind of you... I try and do the same with my limited knowledge to help everyone I can with their issues too.

Thank you


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## de.das.dude (Apr 25, 2013)

its cool bro. have a taco, some ice cream and relax. seems to me like everything electric around you is dying.


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## Ultra Taco (Apr 25, 2013)

Yeah there was a black out in my neighborhood when I was unpacking my stuff... Bad omen

Nothing was connected then... Not the cause of the problems.. just spooky


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## Flibolito (Apr 25, 2013)

very possible the screw driver shorting will do it. since absolutely nothing shows signs of life it is likely the powerswitch not even telling the mobo to send the PSU the turn on signal. make sure you have everything connected to you can get a proper start-up. if that doesn't work build the bare system outside the case on a safe surface. dont even need a drive or anything just mobo with cpu and cooler in place, 1 stick of ram in the correct dimm and video card. be careful with videocard as it will only be secured but the pci e slot and let us know.


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## tastegw (Apr 25, 2013)

Thread was a good read, the OP knows enough to build a pewter, was was unable to diagnose a no post issue, nothing wrong with that at all. Lots of good advice came in and also some not so good advice came in, I'll not point out either cause don't want to start any grief.

Few things:

Like some others have said:

, try building it outside the case on non conductive materials, creating your own temporary test bench.  I like using large (non metalic) books.

Only use the bare minimals for test bench, 1 stick ram, one storage, etc etc

Read the manual to make sure what slots/connectors to use for both sata and ram

Make sure all connectors are in place, if it has a clip, make sure the clip is locked

Power switch on PSU, be sure that is on

Be sure cpu is seated correctly, if in doubt, refer to manual

Manual start (I really love boards with start/reset buttons on the board itself) but if not, follow the previous instructions, this bypasses any case power button errors

If all the above is done correctly and still nothing lights up/beeps or anything, it's most likely to be a bad PSU or motherboard, but since u have tested two psu's (not sure if u tested these elsewhere to be sure they work though) my best guess is the mobo came DOA, which in my opinion, is the most common DOA of any major pc component.  

Can you please answer some of the previous questions:

Does anything spin, beep, light up when power is turned on?

Have u tested the psu's elsewhere to be sure they work?

Have you tried the temp test bench method?

Somebody correct this if wrong:
(Generally speaking)
No power at all issue: (if not then)
PSU->Mobo->cables

PSU=DOA
Mobo=DOA
Cables=DOA

Power but no post:
PSU->Mobo->CPU and or RAM->(if not then)

PSU=could be working, but faulty or too small or shorts
Mobo=Damaged or bad bios/incorrect bios
CPU=DOA or improperly seated or working but damaged or too hot due to cooling issue
RAM=DOA or damaged or in incorrect boot slot (the easiest diagnosis IMO)


@ All, Please correct any errors, misleading info
@ Op, give more info as pertains to the questions directed at u by all


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## H82LUZ73 (Apr 25, 2013)

guys he is trying to run the mobo in the black dimm slot with one memory chip.those blue ones are there for a reason use them.Most newer mobo will not post if you use those black dimms with one memory.I had that issue with my m3A79 T ....he could also try the video card in the second pcie x16 slot some AMD cards hate being used in the first slot by themselves.


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## de.das.dude (Apr 25, 2013)

it should still start up. his doesnt even move or anything.


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## commission3r (Apr 25, 2013)

Ultra Taco said:


> Ohla.
> 
> Yesterday I finished building my new computer. It is a brand new custom Vishera system... and my first.
> 
> ...



theres no need for jumping this and that
even if your bios is not up to date the system will post and it will tell you that you have an unrecognized amd cpu installed

try this

the cpu cooler, tighten the 4 screws around the cpu socket until they wont twist any more then go anti clockwise 2 times to loosen the screws holding the cpu cooling block

if you've wired up everything correctly and the psu fan is spinning but the mobo is staying quiet no leds or fans spinning up then you have to accept you got asrocked


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## DigitalUK (Apr 25, 2013)

hes saying the system is dead no life at all, nothing happens when he presses the power button which rules out bios, memory, and cpu (even if no cpu was fitted at all it would still turn on even for a split second)

start from scratch bud.

check you have attached the 24pin ATX cable from your power supply to the motherboard (Middle right of your board).
next make sure you have attached the 8 pin or 4pin (depending on power supply) 12v cable (this powers your cpu) to your motherboard (top left of your board)
find cable in your case marked Power SW and make sure it is attached to the pins on your board for Power Switch (your motherboard manual will tell you exactly where) (bottom right on board)
next make sure the power supply is switched on (at back on system where you plug the mains cable into the system there will be an On/Off switch)
now try and turn system on with the button at front of case.

if the system is totally dead im sure its something simple you may have missed.


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## Solaris17 (Apr 26, 2013)

smells like

A:short
B:case switch
C:board
D: psu

My personal reccomendation

A:Build on a box and use a screw driver too boot.

B: if system does not atleast power on switch to second PSU

C: if second PSU does not atleast boot the system

D: board is dead RMA


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## Mussels (Apr 26, 2013)

just as some advice to help you get this solved easier (and anyone taking photos)


do it in natural daylight, and rest the camera on something.


blurry photos help no-one, since there are small things we might see, but cant.


do any of the small LED's on the board light up when the PSU is connected? anything at all to show power is active?


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## de.das.dude (Apr 26, 2013)

good point. i forgot about the LEDs!


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## Aquinus (Apr 26, 2013)

You could also just short PS_ON to ground on the ATX connector and the PSU should turn right on. I don't recommend doing this connected to any hardware other than a tester though. If you have a voltage tester, if PWR_ON (power good) is high, the PSU is most likely okay. I think it's the motherboard, but lets test everything just to be sure.


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## Rastech (Apr 26, 2013)

Other stuff is covered above.

An incompatible CPU is capable of causing a complete failure to boot. I have had it happen several times, and most recently with a system I built last week (the 68 chipset motherboard wasn't Ivybridge compatible without a BIOS update).

Incompatible memory (without the voltage being set to suit in the BIOS) can also cause a complete failure to boot. Only having 1 stick of memory when a pair is needed, can cause a system to fail to boot.

What device do you think the POST starts with? The GRAPHICS. If the card is not slotted right (over tight, angled in the slot wrong, seated in the slot wrong), or the card is dead, or the card has insufficient amps from the PSU to fire up, the system will fail to boot (in this case you may get a bit of a giveaway with a slight 'twitch' of movement with the CPU cooling fan - but with automated fan control where fans won't start up until what they need to cool has warmed up, that useful hint is often denied us now). So unscrew the card, take it out of the slot, wipe the contacts carefully, CHECK THE SLOT is clear and clean (no trimmed bits of production plastic insulating contacts), reslot it securely, but do not fix it firmly, so there's a little leeway to flex it side to side with the power on, and you hold the power button in.  Sometimes people just fail to seat the graphics card at all, because the contacts in the slot are stiff, and the card is just sitting on top of them doing nothing. Is the monitor actually compatible with the graphics card? Not happened to me (I live and breathe system compatibility), but I have heard of grief caused by a monitor that was deeply disturbed at what it was being fed as signal. So never rule anything out. It's handy to have a known good basic graphics card around that doesn't need extra power from the PSU too.

Don't forget to check the fuse in the main power lead, or that it is seated fully into the socket in the PSU. If using an extension block of sockets (surge protector, etc), make sure it is actually switched on.

Only plug in the absolute minimum to get the system to post. Don't plug in DVD drives, hard drives, or anything else unnecessary to getting a successful POST. If it posts without the clutter, switch off, and then go through the process of adding one item at a time. The most surprising things can turn out to cause a boot failure.

Sometimes, a system just gets 'claustrophobic' after being in little cardboard boxes for sometimes months, or gets deeply unhappy with the inability of the delivery driver to traverse highways and road obstacles safely, and without screaming. When this 'system panic attack' happens to me, I call my fellow computer building buddy in the local town, and tell him to put the kettle on, as I have a system that wants a day out to see the scenic route. More often than not, I put the system on his bench, and it fires up immediately (you will not believe how often this has happened over the last 20 years or so), and never gives a problem after. Yes I get the 'put the kettle on' call from him now and again too.

Good luck with it, don't end up like me, with all my hair ripped out years ago.


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