# Thermal pads for sticking heatsinks on VRM/VRAM, what thickness should I go for?



## crystal6tak (Feb 25, 2016)

Hey all!

First time posting here, please let me know if I did something wrong!

I’m wondering when using self-adhesive thermal pads to stick tiny heatsinks on VRAM/VRM on a graphics card, does the thickness matter? Normally the thickness is determined by the gap between the two object squishing against each other, but since I’m just sticking heat sinks on the PCB, what thickness thermal pads should I use then? 0.5mm? 1mm? 1.5mm?

Specifically, I have an EVGA 980 Ti FTW ACX 2.0 4996 and an Arctic Accelero Xtreme III I want to slap on. I’ll have to remove the front plate of the 980 Ti to install the Accelero cooler. Meaning it’ll reveal all the VRAM/VRM and what not that normally are cooled by the front plate. The thermal adhesive paste provided by Arctic creates pretty much a permanent bond between the PCB and the heatsink which I don’t want. I looked around and found the Alphacool Eisschicht self-adhering thermal pads 14 w/mK (17 too expensive) which I can buy at where I’m at. Problem is I don’t know whether to get the 0.5mm or 1mm variant.

Here’s a picture below showing the tiny silver heatsinks I want to stick on the VRM/VRAM


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## trog100 (Feb 25, 2016)

thin ones will transfer heat better.. thicker ones would only be for uneven surfaces..

trog


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## EarthDog (Feb 25, 2016)

I'd use the .5mm. As trog alluded to, the thicker ones are there to fill larger gaps between the heatsink and IC it is cooling... even surface or not.


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## sneekypeet (Feb 25, 2016)

Thermal pads are not adhesive and will not hold sinks on the card on their own. You want tape or epoxy.

Also the arctic epoxy is not a forever product. I tested their cooler and epoxy and was still able to remove the sinks by twisting them off when I was done.


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## crystal6tak (Feb 25, 2016)

sneekypeet said:


> Thermal pads are not adhesive and will not hold sinks on the card on their own. You want tape or epoxy.


I was wondering that too. Alphacool's website states them as "self-adhesive". Looking online, adhesive thermal pad seems to a thing too. Although I can't find many reviews of this specific alphacool thermal pad anywhere that talk about their stickiness. I guess I'll be the guinea pig then


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## Folterknecht (Feb 25, 2016)

http://www.ebay.de/itm/4-Stuck-VGA-...428798?hash=item19fc9e81fe:g:vx8AAOxyzi9ShzqE

These ones work really great (made of copper) used them on several GPUs in the past without them falling off opposed to the junk Arctic is bundling with their coolers.


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## sneekypeet (Feb 25, 2016)

crystal6tak said:


> I was wondering that too. Alphacool's website states them as "self-adhesive". Looking online, adhesive thermal pad seems to a thing too. Although I can't find many reviews of this specific alphacool thermal pad anywhere that talk about their stickiness. I guess I'll be the guinea pig then



If you read the datasheets they also mention that they need to be compressed to work properly. In your situation there will be no compression made. Also it does not state of those pads are sticky on one or both sides. Again, I still suggest you buy themral tape, or just use the epoxy that comes with the cooler.


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## EarthDog (Feb 25, 2016)

Fujiopoly extreme are the best, but you pay for that too...


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## Outback Bronze (Feb 25, 2016)

Hi there,

Gee that picture sure looks familiar! I'm pretty sure that's the picture of my R9 290 that I did with a universal water block.

Anyways id suggest you want something like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/171696285466?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I did not use thermal pads in that picture.


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## trog100 (Feb 25, 2016)

i would epoxy them on.. just dont apply force and twist them off.. he he

i have done it many a time with RC airplane stuff and PC stuff .. electric speed controlers and the like.. they pass lots of amps and get pretty hot.. never had one fall off yet..

try and clamp them a bit as the stuff cures..

they will work better on a graphics card (or anythiing come to that) with some airflow blowing at or over them.. it dosnt have to be a gale but static air makes a good insulator..

trog


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## crystal6tak (Feb 25, 2016)

sneekypeet said:


> If you read the datasheets they also mention that they need to be compressed to work properly. In your situation there will be no compression made. Also it does not state of those pads are sticky on one or both sides. Again, I still suggest you buy themral tape, or just use the epoxy that comes with the cooler.


There is one review out there that claims it's "Double-sided adhesive". He also said it was more sticky than phobya radiator... I have no idea what that means. Just read the datasheet, it states "double sticky surface" So I guess that confirms that. As to the compression thing...hmm, I was expecting the pads to be slightly clay/bluetac like (at least that's what it seems from videos), so I was thinking I could just compress it myself first? Then it'll stay in place? I have no idea. And which epoxy did you use? The one I got, which seems to be the same as this dude, a single unlabeled white tube (not two). That article also says on the third paragraph about how the bond is fairly permanent, while referencing to ripping of VRAM... Obviously if I could use the provided epoxy I'd gladly use it, but I can't seem to find anyone that talked about safely removing the the exact epoxy I got from Arctic.



Folterknecht said:


> http://www.ebay.de/itm/4-Stuck-VGA-...428798?hash=item19fc9e81fe:g:vx8AAOxyzi9ShzqE
> 
> These ones work really great (made of copper) used them on several GPUs in the past without them falling off opposed to the junk Arctic is bundling with their coolers.


Wait what, the one provided by Arctic is that bad?



EarthDog said:


> Fujiopoly extreme are the best, but you pay for that too...


Can't find anywhere saying it's adhesive. Also not sold here at Spain unfortunately...



Outback Bronze said:


> Hi there,
> 
> Gee that picture sure looks familiar! I'm pretty sure that's the picture of my R9 290 that I did with a universal water block.
> 
> ...


I had no idea! I was just using it for reference . Great pic! 10/10 would use again. As to that epoxy, can I be sure I won't rip off any chips when trying to remove the sinks in the future? That's my main concern.



trog100 said:


> i would epoxy them on.. just dont apply force and twist them off.. he he
> 
> try and clamp them a bit as the stuff cures..
> 
> ...


But...trying to get them off is exactly what I want to do in the future...


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## EarthDog (Feb 25, 2016)

Apologies, I thought they had an adhesive version. 

You don't want to compress these yourself. The oils on your hand will take away the effectiveness of the adhesive. You should clean off all surfaces it will touch with isopropyl alcohol and a qtip or lint free towel/rag.


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## crystal6tak (Feb 25, 2016)

EarthDog said:


> Apologies, I thought they had an adhesive version.
> 
> You don't want to compress these yourself. The oils on your hand will take away the effectiveness of the adhesive. You should clean off all surfaces it will touch with isopropyl alcohol and a qtip or lint free towel/rag.


Not planning to do that at all lol, was thinking of getting the pad and heatsinks on the PCB, then use a textbook or something to place on top of the heatsinks acting as weight. Then leave it like that for a couple of hours.


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## rtwjunkie (Feb 25, 2016)

crystal6tak said:


> then use a textbook or something to place on top of the heatsinks acting as weight



I don't think you need to to all that!  My experience has been with VRM heatsinks that jist a little bit of pressure on the pad/tape for about 30 seconds will do the trick, which you can do with a finger.


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## EarthDog (Feb 26, 2016)

rtwjunkie said:


> I don't think you need to to all that!  My experience has been with VRM heatsinks that jist a little bit of pressure on the pad/tape for about 30 seconds will do the trick, which you can do with a finger.


winner winner... chicken dinner!


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## Sasqui (Feb 26, 2016)

Seeing the original post pic reminds me of a 5870 I bricked trying to do the same thing.


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## Schmuckley (Feb 26, 2016)

use ceramique2 and let it cure for 3 days 
Watch out in the vrm area where a slipped sink can contact the inductors.
I've lost 2-3 cards like that 
Even after applying LET to the area i thought it might would contact.


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## crystal6tak (Feb 26, 2016)

Sasqui said:


> Seeing the original post pic reminds me of a 5870 I bricked trying to do the same thing.


How did you brick it?



Schmuckley said:


> use ceramique2 and let it cure for 3 days
> Watch out in the vrm area where a slipped sink can contact the inductors.
> I've lost 2-3 cards like that
> Even after applying LET to the area i thought it might would contact.


I was considering ceramic, would you happen to know how safe removing the heatsinks would be after it has cured?


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## Sasqui (Feb 26, 2016)

crystal6tak said:


> How did you brick it?



Not entirely sure.  I think a solder point broke off or something, one or two of the VRM choke cores felt loose..  Put it all together, back in the case, no video, nadda.


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## Schmuckley (Feb 26, 2016)

crystal6tak said:


> How did you brick it?
> 
> 
> I was considering ceramic, would you happen to know how safe removing the heatsinks would be after it has cured?


Very safe.
To be extra safe,don't sink the VRMs..too near the inductor contacts..I have lost 3 cards like that...or is it 4?


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## crystal6tak (Feb 26, 2016)

Schmuckley said:


> Very safe.


Interesting! Have any recommendation for what ceramic thermal paste I should use? And how would I go with taking the sinks off in the future? Just twist them off? I've read someone talk about putting it in the fridge to make it brittle, is that necessary? Also, you talked about the sink slipping and shorting out the VRM, can you expand on that? I'd like to not make the same mistake.

*EDIT:*
Saw you recommended ceramique 2, searching that up now.

*EDIT2:*
Are you sure the ceramique 2 is sticky enough to keep the heatsinks on the VRM/VRAM without support? I haven't found anyone that have used it for such application. I only found results for the previous product, the ceramique 1 which from this super old thread (post 4 onwards) says the ceramique 1 is not sticky enough.

*EDIT3:*
So umm...I ordered some Sekisui 5760 thermal tape instead lol. Hopefully aquacooling approves the cancellation of my order on the alphacooling pads...


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## OneMoar (Mar 3, 2016)

this is what you want if you are looking for glue
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQ1BU/?tag=tec06d-20
its glue so be careful with it once you have it in place and the glue sets its PERMANENT Near Impossible to remove


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## Retrorockit (Mar 3, 2016)

I suggest using Arctics 2 part cleaner to get a good bond. The tape should be sufficient to hold the aluminum sinks , the copper ones are much heavier and I've used tape with  them. The epoxy will transfer heat better than tape though mostly because it ends up  thinner.


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