# paulieg's first watercooling adventure, help wanted!



## PaulieG (Oct 10, 2008)

OK, guys. I've finally done it. I ordered all of my parts, and I'll have the weekend after next totally free to set things up. I've certainly read plenty about setting up a loop, but I've never done this myself. So, I'm requesting tips, tricks, diagrams, pictures links etc. to help me through my first water cooling adventure. Please no "you should have bought something different" comments. Here are my parts:

Cooler Master HAF932 case (supposed to be very WC friendly)
Dtek Fusion v1 with pro mount
Danger Den DD-CPX-Pro 12v pump
Black Ice GT stealth 240 Rad
Swiftech Micro Res
5ft of Masterkleer 3/8" ID tubing
3/8" fittings/barbs for block and Rad
Several reusable 3/8" clamps.

Thanks for your help guys!


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## cdawall (Oct 10, 2008)

need more tubing me and aaron did a build each of us went through at least 8ft. but good news is home depot and lowes have a great selection


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## PaulieG (Oct 10, 2008)

Really? I'm only going to cool my cpu, and later maybe my NB.


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## Arrakis9 (Oct 10, 2008)

if you can fill the radiator first with coolant on a flat surface, pre loading it makes it alot esier to get the air bubbles out than trying to purge it with tubes on it


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## erocker (Oct 10, 2008)

Yeah, you may need some more hose.  The best thing to do is to go somewhere like Home Depot and buy some of thier cheap hose to work with first so you know exactly how much of the good stuff you need.  This way you can also work with different configs and length of hose.  Congrats!


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## cdawall (Oct 10, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> Really? I'm only going to cool my cpu, and later maybe my NB.



yep its crazy how much you will go through go check me and freaksaviors build thread we should have some usefull stuff for you in there


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## PaulieG (Oct 10, 2008)

cdawall said:


> yep its crazy how much you will go through go check me and freaksaviors build thread we should have some usefull stuff for you in there



Can you link the thread?


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## cdawall (Oct 10, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> Can you link the thread?



http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=66289&highlight=freaksavior+cdawall


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## PaulieG (Oct 10, 2008)

Can you guys take a look at my case, and comment on the layout, and suggest how/where I install the WC components? That's what I'm most concerned about. 

http://www.motherboards.org/reviews/hardware/1808_1.html
http://www.techwarelabs.com/reviews/cases/Cooler_Master_HAF_932/


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## Tau (Oct 10, 2008)

You will need ALOT more hose...  And why did you opt for 3/8?

Are you going to use a resevoire?  or just a y fitting somewere?

a trick for putting it all together, sometimes it can be a pain to get the hose all teh way on the fittings, use a little vaseline, or a drop of oil then they should just pop on, and the first run of fluid will pickup all the trace and wash it away.

Also the first time you fill it should NOT be with coolant.  use distilled water with a couple drops of food coloring (to check flow) and pump that through it for a wile before you power on the PC (just run the watercooling)  this will ensure that you have good flow, no kinks, and most important no leaks. 

I would say 2-4 hours running without the PC on should be suffiecent time to ensure its all good.

Also i would reccomend installing a T in the lowest point of the system for draining it (right before the pump is a good place sometimes, though it depends on your setup)  As you will be draining/modding it often (atleast i am with mine)  and than obviousely plug the T with something.

Another thing to note, that alot of people dont seem to get, is that if you need to make a tight bend, or corner, or a 90* use a longer piece of hose and put a loop in it, the loop will take care of the bends, and not kink.

Also mount the Rad on the outside of the case if you can... this will help bring the ambient case temp down.

PM me if you have anymore questions as i have done alot of watercooling, and other cooling setups.


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## erocker (Oct 10, 2008)

Your case is designed to have a radiator on top or bottom since you can put the PSU either place.  You also have a fillport on top of the case you should try mounting the res under.


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## Binge (Oct 10, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> Can you guys take a look at my case, and comment on the layout, and suggest how/where I install the WC components? That's what I'm most concerned about.
> 
> http://www.motherboards.org/reviews/hardware/1808_1.html
> http://www.techwarelabs.com/reviews/cases/Cooler_Master_HAF_932/



Great choice on the case!  I maimed and destroyed a cheapo Cool Master case every way I could think of to make it easier for me to WC.  The first thing I learned was to keep the Rad away from heat sources.  Make sure the airflow in the case is not fed into your radiator.  Then the only other problem I had was making sure there were two low points that could be used to drain the system.  I ended up using Ts with drain valves.  Think about installing it first, and hook the pump up to an external source so you can get the air out.  A few runs will kill a lot of the air in your loop.  That's all I can think about right now.  Good luck!


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## PaulieG (Oct 10, 2008)

Anyone with some good pics and diagrams? I'm trying to understand the T-line....


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## NastyHabits (Oct 10, 2008)

*T-Line*

Here you go T-Line


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## PaulieG (Oct 10, 2008)

NastyHabits said:


> Here you go T-Line




Thanks for the pic. Pics like that are really helpful. It would be great to get some pics of a full setup with descriptions just like that. So, do you just cap off the other end until you need to drain the loop?


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## sneekypeet (Oct 10, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> Thanks for the pic. So, do you just cap off the other end until you need to drain the loop?



yup!


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## Laurijan (Oct 10, 2008)

A tip: if the tubing doent go right way on the fittings.. dip the ends of the tubing in boiled water so the go onto the fittings more easy..


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## PaulieG (Oct 10, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> yup!



Got it. Is a T-line something that I might find at Lowe's?


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## phanbuey (Oct 10, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> Got it. Is a T-line something that I might find at Lowe's?



you can find them at lowes or home depot. (i know for sure home depot)


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## PaulieG (Oct 10, 2008)

This case has a fillport hole in the front. How do I use it? Do I just run the tubing up to the opening? How do I seal off this line? Wow, I feel like such a noob!


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## Whilhelm (Oct 10, 2008)

You have a MCRES right? If you have that you don't need to muck about with a T line. Take a look at my worklog it may give you some ideas. I was a total WC noob when I set it up but it worked out pretty well. Make sure that you mount the reservoir above the pump inlet because that insures that the pump is never starved for water and it will ease in the air bleeding process.When you bleed it just pop the cap of the MCRES and it will help let the air bubbles out, at least it did for me. 

Your best loop config would be as follows

Reservoir > Pump > Radiator > CPU > NB > Reservoir. 

hope that helps and good luck. 

Post pictures 

and remember keep it simple for your first loop then when you gain more confidence you can start delving into some crazier setup options.


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## Wile E (Oct 10, 2008)

I alway run res>pump>cpu>rad>res.

In my old setup, I had the Rad front mounted on my Stacker, but mostly, I wanted to show you my pump and res setup, you can put your rad wherever it fits best.







The pump is bolted to the floor of my case, and the res is bolted to the side of the drive bays, slightly higher than the pump.


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## Whilhelm (Oct 10, 2008)

That works too, depending on where the rad is but what is really important is that the res is just before the pump. 

To fill the loop your best bet would be to just use the fillport on the MCRES.

To drain the loop you can either put a tline with a drain port just after the pump outlet or just pop off the hose at the pump outlet.


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## PaulieG (Oct 10, 2008)

Wile E said:


> I alway run res>pump>cpu>rad>res.
> 
> In my old setup, I had the Rad front mounted on my Stacker, but mostly, I wanted to show you my pump and res setup, you can put your rad wherever it fits best.
> 
> ...



So, you don't use a fillport? If not, when filling the first time, do you just put water/coolant in the res?


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## Whilhelm (Oct 10, 2008)

When I fill mine from empty I do it with all hardware disconnected with the 24pin conector jumped and the pump connected. I fill the MCRES to the top and it will start to flow to the pump, when the res is full switch on the PSU and the pump should pull most of the water out of the res. Before the res is empty switch off the psu and fill the res back up. Repeat this process until the water gets all the way through the loop and the pump is constantly being fed water. then just top off the res and let it bleed for a few hours. This is the point where you can look to see if there are any leaks.


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## Wile E (Oct 10, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> So, you don't use a fillport? If not, when filling the first time, do you just put water/coolant in the res?



Yep, just put it straight in the res.


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## Sonido (Oct 10, 2008)

Depending on how you are going to test your WC system for leaks, you might want to put some light colored paper near ports. This way, if you walk out for a while, you can come back and see where and how much is leaking.


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## PaulieG (Oct 10, 2008)

If I mount the Rad to the top inside the case, then mount fans to the Rad, should the airflow move in the direction of the Rad and out of the case, or do I want to be pulling air in?


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## kyle2020 (Oct 10, 2008)

you want it to be pushing the air through the rad and out the case. That way it will also help case temps.


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## Deleted member 24505 (Oct 10, 2008)

When i got my gpu block,i decided to go for a t-line and have no res,i am impressed with the way it turned out.It is completely clear with no bubbles now,it took about 2hrs for the air to bleed out.I have a fill port on the top of my case.I found it was noisier with the res because the pump pushes the water back into the tank so fast.

I also test mine with the atx 24pin and the 6pin pci-e leads disconnected.Some psu dont like running with no load.

EDIT-My loop is pump-cpu-gpu-rad-pump by the way,and the t piece for the t-line is between the rad and pump.


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## PaulieG (Oct 10, 2008)

erocker said:


> Your case is designed to have a radiator on top or bottom since you can put the PSU either place.  You also have a fillport on top of the case you should try mounting the res under.



Per reviews, the fillport placement and design is the one weakness of this case. I think I'll probably skip the fillport all together. Trying to keep this first attempt as simple as possible.


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## Deleted member 24505 (Oct 10, 2008)

If your pump has a rpm detector wire,connect it to the cpu fan header.It stops my board whinging coz the cpu fan is not on,and some boards can shut the pc down if the cpu fan rpm drops to zero.


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## PaulieG (Oct 10, 2008)

Can someone with a rad installed on the inside top of the case post some pics?


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## rampage (Oct 10, 2008)

paulieg i have a cosmos 1000 case and a 360mm rad installed in the top of the case, i am at work at the moment and will need sleep when i get home but later today if noone else has posted anything ill post some pics to try an dhelp you out

or are you just after info on your particular case?


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## PaulieG (Oct 10, 2008)

rampage said:


> paulieg i have a cosmos 1000 case and a 360mm rad installed in the top of the case, i am at work at the moment and will need sleep when i get home but later today if noone else has posted anything ill post some pics to try an dhelp you out
> 
> or are you just after info on your particular case?



Actually, it would be great if you posted some pics. I just want to get a visual on how people are setting up their loops with a rad on the top.


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## rampage (Oct 10, 2008)

yeah no worries i can do that. i was lucky with my case as it had room for 2 X 120mm fans in the top so all i had to do was some minor cutting to the case and just used 4 of the fan mount holes from one of the 120mm mount to mount my top rad... 

have you got any idars on how you will be mounting your pump, that is my biggest issue atm because after installing a 1000w psu i have ran out of room at the bottom of my case and the pump is free floating (just hanging around)..  i guess what im trying to say is when you do install your loop just keep future upgrads in mind as its hard to move things around once there bolted to the case


**EDIT** here is a link to a earlier pic of my case, its low quality and dosnt show how the rad is mounted for now but its somthing (pic is in first post)
http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=63455


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## Deleted member 24505 (Oct 10, 2008)

PaulieG,how about putting your psu in the top and the rad at the bottom? there is already 2x120mm holes in the bottom for the rad,plus it means no cutting.


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## PaulieG (Oct 10, 2008)

tigger said:


> PaulieG,how about putting your psu in the top and the rad at the bottom? there is already 2x120mm holes in the bottom for the rad,plus it means no cutting.



Cutting? The top of this case also has the holes to mount a rad.


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## Deleted member 24505 (Oct 10, 2008)

Oh,i thought it had a single big fan on the top


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## mrw1986 (Oct 10, 2008)

Jeesh Paulie, you almost have as many questions as I did! Once you setup watercooling for the first time though, the next time is a breeze, trust me!


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## PaulieG (Oct 10, 2008)

tigger said:


> Oh,i thought it had a single big fan on the top



Yeah, the big fan is removable, and holes are pre drilled for either 2 120mm fans or a rad.


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## Deleted member 24505 (Oct 10, 2008)

Aah right.

Heres a little pic of my loop,had to use the webcam *shudder*


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## Sonido (Oct 10, 2008)

kyle2020 said:


> you want it to be pushing the air through the rad and out the case. That way it will also help case temps.



The major problem with this is; if your case temps are high, your rad wouldn't be properly cooled. All the heat from the case will be pushed onto the rad. That was one of my concerns, when I choose my case. You might want one fan pointing outward away from the rad for hot spots.

In pure Rocky fashion, I will say this.

Hey, Yo! Paulie. I love you, man.


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## Binge (Oct 11, 2008)

Sonido said:


> The major problem with this is; if your case temps are high, your rad wouldn't be properly cooled. All the heat from the case will be pushed onto the rad. That was one of my concerns, when I choose my case. You might want one fan pointing outward away from the rad for hot spots.
> 
> In pure Rocky fashion, I will say this.
> 
> Hey, Yo! Paulie. I love you man. High Five



Yes!  Completely the point I was trying to make in one of my other posts.  I saw some guy say case temps go DOWN when you use a rad on the exhaust?  On the contrary, the case temps will go up and so will your water temps.  Hot air rises but having a rad poking through the top is not bad as long as their is good exhaust on your case!  I used a fully external rad.


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## PaulieG (Oct 11, 2008)

LOL. I want to quote that in my sig, ok?


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## Sonido (Oct 11, 2008)

That is fine by me. Also, after you are done with the setup, check temps for inconsistency. It can show if your water isn't being cooled properly.


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## Sonido (Oct 11, 2008)

Binge said:


> Yes!  Completely the point I was trying to make in one of my other posts.  I saw some guy say case temps go DOWN when you use a rad on the exhaust?  On the contrary, the case temps will go up and so will your water temps.  Hot air rises but having a rad poking through the top is not bad as long as their is good exhaust on your case!  I used a fully external rad.



That's why I love my case. It has an internal platform for a rad and/or res. Antec calls it a "Water Cooling Platform". The three fans in the front push in cool air; push it through the rad; and exhausts it using the fans (two back, and the monster on top). If you can, Paulie, you might want to see if that is possible. Although, if your case isn't well vented in the first place, it will not be a good idea.


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## PaulieG (Oct 11, 2008)

I'm moving this to a project log, since my parts will be here on Tuesday.


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## DOM (Oct 11, 2008)

you know that case has a Easy access to liquid coolant fill port ?


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## PaulieG (Oct 11, 2008)

DOM said:


> you know that case has a Easy access to liquid coolant fill port ?



Yeah, but the reviews say that fillport is almost useless the way it's designed. That's been the only knock on an otherwise brilliant case.


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## DOM (Oct 11, 2008)

yeah the case looks nice


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## PaulieG (Oct 11, 2008)

I just got my Dtek Fusion delivered this morning from Petra's. Damn they are fast. Not to mention they included a personal note stating they switched out the fittings to 3/8" free of charge since the Fusion only comes with 1/2". They also included a free Petra's pen. Nice little touch. I'll post pictures later. The rest of my stuff should be here by Tuesday from performance-pc.


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## DOM (Oct 11, 2008)

yeah got a pen and note from them 

why didnt you get V2 cost ?


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## PaulieG (Oct 11, 2008)

When I mount the Rad at the top of the case, should the in/out nipples face toward the front or back of the case. As for the pump, is it ok to mount it to the bottom of the case with velcro, or does it have to be bolted in?


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## PaulieG (Oct 11, 2008)

DOM said:


> yeah got a pen and note from them
> 
> why didnt you get V2 cost ?



I got the v1 with pro mount for $47. I couldn't justify the extra cost for the v2. I'm already over budget, and this was a good deal.


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## DOM (Oct 11, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> When I mount the Rad at the top of the case, should the in/out nipples face toward the front or back of the case. As for the pump, is it ok to mount it to the bottom of the case with velcro, or does it have to be bolted in?


I use velcro and the back cuz where are going to put the res ?



Paulieg said:


> I got the v1 with pro mount for $47. I couldn't justify the extra cost for the v2. I'm already over budget, and this was a good deal.


yeah i payed like 65 when i got mine with out the pro mount


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## Sonido (Oct 11, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> I got the v1 with pro mount for $47. I couldn't justify the extra cost for the v2. I'm already over budget, and this was a good deal.



Hey, yo! Paulie. Am I correct to assume that you have all your parts? I mean that they are all in. I wanna pics of the newborn. I bet it will have your nose... and erockers eyes


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## PaulieG (Oct 12, 2008)

Sonido said:


> Hey, yo! Paulie. Am I correct to assume that you have all your parts? I mean that they are all in. I wanna pics of the newborn. I bet it will have your nose... and erockers eyes



LOL. No. The rest of my order comes in on Tuesday. Right now I just have the Dtek block and tubing.


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## Wile E (Oct 12, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> I just got my Dtek Fusion delivered this morning from Petra's. Damn they are fast. Not to mention they included a personal note stating they switched out the fittings to 3/8" free of charge since the Fusion only comes with 1/2". They also included a free Petra's pen. Nice little touch. I'll post pictures later. The rest of my stuff should be here by Tuesday from performance-pc.


Yeah, Petra's is one of my favorite places to order. It's rare to find a place with the personal touch anymore. I have a bunch of those pens floating around. lol.



Paulieg said:


> When I mount the Rad at the top of the case, should the in/out nipples face toward the front or back of the case. As for the pump, is it ok to mount it to the bottom of the case with velcro, or does it have to be bolted in?


It doesn't matter which way the fittings face on your rad. Just do a mock-up without tubing, and decide where you want your res and pump (which is fine to mount at the bottom with velcro), then decide which way to face the rad for both the easiest access and the shortest tubing runs.


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## PaulieG (Oct 13, 2008)

OK, I'm thinking of adding the NB to the loop too. It's already set up for WC. Suggestions on how to best intergrate the NB with this loop?


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## Sonido (Oct 13, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> OK, I'm thinking of adding the NB to the loop too. It's already set up for WC. Suggestions on how to best intergrate the NB with this loop?



Normally, people would make a new loop. You would have to include another rad to the mix. 

Res > CPU > Rad > NB > Rad > Res

Hopefully, you have a nice pump. I've seen some pretty funky setups:

Res > CPU > Rad > little booster Pump > GPU > Rad > Mobo coverage(NB + Phase) > Rad > Res


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## sneekypeet (Oct 13, 2008)

no need for the extra rad IMHO...wouldnt hurt, but not needed! Just add it in after the CPU and be happy!


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## PaulieG (Oct 13, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> no need for the extra rad IMHO...wouldnt hurt, but not needed! Just add it in after the CPU and be happy!



One thing that make it complicated. How the hell do I test the loop for leaks outside of the case, with the NB block attached to the MB?


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## niko084 (Oct 13, 2008)

Need anything like this for a bit better general idea-
http://video.google.com/videosearch...sa=X&oi=video_result_group&resnum=4&ct=title#


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## sneekypeet (Oct 13, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> One thing that make it complicated. How the hell do I test the loop for leaks outside of the case, with the NB block attached to the MB?



thats why you get some low dollar tube at the hardware store. Just cut some bits and run the lop outside. if its on the board already, just make it so the board is suspended upside down. that way no leaks hit the mobo. With Distilled water, you could just let it dry if it did drip and start when you are sure its dry, but I like the idea of not giving it that chance!


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## DOM (Oct 13, 2008)

Res > Rad > Pump > CPU > NB > Res

I would just make sure the block fittings and screws are tight and snudge and the res and rad also and hook it up like you want then just put some water in the loop untill the res almost full just jump start the psu and stop it fill again un till you loop has water

also take off the power to the mobo, gpu etc. just in case it leaks or just run the pump off another psu cuz does it come with a 3pin to 4 pin ?


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## niko084 (Oct 13, 2008)

As for leaks, get a water level sensor with an alarm and have it trigger a relay to cut your power...

I have setup servers that are water cooled that same way, works wonders and its pretty safe.


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## Wile E (Oct 14, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> One thing that make it complicated. How the hell do I test the loop for leaks outside of the case, with the NB block attached to the MB?



Just unplug all power from the mobo, and put paper towels around the NB and cpu blocks. You should leak test it in your case anyway. Testing it outside of the case, then putting it in the case afterwards can lead to leaks from moving the loop around. (Trust me, I saw it first hand). That method of leak testing never made any sense to me.

Once you get it up and going, you are going to smack yourself upside the head from worrying about it so much. lol. It is so much easier than you think it is.

My personal preference for loop order in this setup would be res>pump>cpu>NB>rad>res. When you set up your tubing, make sure you have all of your cards installed, so you know how to route everything the best. I learned that one the hard way too. lol.


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## Sonido (Oct 14, 2008)

sneekypeet said:


> no need for the extra rad IMHO...wouldnt hurt, but not needed! Just add it in after the CPU and be happy!



The reason I added the extra rad is because you would be bringing the heated water from the CPU to the NB, so it wouldn't cool down properly. You are correct, though. You can just go straight through.


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## PaulieG (Oct 14, 2008)

DOM said:


> Res > Rad > Pump > CPU > NB > Res
> 
> I would just make sure the block fittings and screws are tight and snudge and the res and rad also and hook it up like you want then just put some water in the loop untill the res almost full just jump start the psu and stop it fill again un till you loop has water
> 
> also take off the power to the mobo, gpu etc. just in case it leaks or just run the pump off another psu cuz does it come with a 3pin to 4 pin ?



I'm not sure if it comes with a 3 to 4 pin. I'll know more tonight. . Should the entire loop and res be completely full of water/coolant? By the way, I should have the rest of my parts tonight. I'll post some pics.


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## Whilhelm (Oct 14, 2008)

On an MCRES it does not have to be completely full. It will run just fine as long as the water level does not drop below the angled piece of acrylic inside the reservoir. But filling it to the top can't hurt as it gives you a little more fluid which will slightly increase the heat capacity of the system. 

I look forward to seeing some pics. The first loop is always exciting and takes a lot of time to get exactly how you want.


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## PaulieG (Oct 14, 2008)

Whilhelm said:


> On an MCRES it does not have to be completely full. It will run just fine as long as the water level does not drop below the angled piece of acrylic inside the reservoir. But filling it to the top can't hurt as it gives you a little more fluid which will slightly increase the heat capacity of the system.
> 
> I look forward to seeing some pics. The first loop is always exciting and takes a lot of time to get exactly how you want.



Man, I can't wait, but I may not be able to get it going until Saturday. I have a build to do for a customer, in addition to my day job.


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## PaulieG (Oct 14, 2008)

Wile E said:


> Just unplug all power from the mobo, and put paper towels around the NB and cpu blocks. You should leak test it in your case anyway. Testing it outside of the case, then putting it in the case afterwards can lead to leaks from moving the loop around. (Trust me, I saw it first hand). That method of leak testing never made any sense to me.
> 
> Once you get it up and going, you are going to smack yourself upside the head from worrying about it so much. lol. It is so much easier than you think it is.
> 
> My personal preference for loop order in this setup would be res>pump>cpu>NB>rad>res. When you set up your tubing, make sure you have all of your cards installed, so you know how to route everything the best. I learned that one the hard way too. lol.



Yeah, I think I prefer your method of testing. It seems like a real pain to leak test outside the case. I hope you are right about how easy it really is.  I always worry too much about this stuff the first time around. LOL


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## Whilhelm (Oct 14, 2008)

If you are worried about slow leaks mount your Mcres where it can be seen and when you fill it and bleed it mark the water level with a piece of tape or something and just keep an eye on it to see if it drops at all.

Have you ever taken the stock heatsinks off your Maximus. I did to change the thermal paste (before I ditched it all for 4 waterblocks) and it made a good difference in the temperatures on the NB and SB.

Oh and yeah I leak tested outside my case and when Installing it a barb came slightly unscrewed and it caused leaking, lucky I leak tested twice.


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## PaulieG (Oct 14, 2008)

Whilhelm said:


> If you are worried about slow leaks mount your Mcres where it can be seen and when you fill it and bleed it mark the water level with a piece of tape or something and just keep an eye on it to see if it drops at all.
> 
> Have you ever taken the stock heatsinks off your Maximus. I did to change the thermal paste (before I ditched it all for 4 waterblocks) and it made a good difference in the temperatures on the NB and SB.
> 
> Oh and yeah I leak tested outside my case and when Installing it a barb came slightly unscrewed and it caused leaking, lucky I leak tested twice.



Yeah, the guy I bought the Maximus from replaced the stock TIM with AS5 before he sold it to me.


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## Whilhelm (Oct 14, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> Yeah, the guy I bought the Maximus from replaced the stock TIM with AS5 before he sold it to me.



Nice, Its a bit of a pain to do it yourself anyway. You usually have to heat up the heatsink area with a hairdryer to soften it up, the stock stuff is like concrete.


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## DOM (Oct 14, 2008)

My Fisrt Time 







Second






Third


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## PaulieG (Oct 14, 2008)

DOM said:


> My Fisrt Time
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Pics are very appreciated!


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## PaulieG (Oct 14, 2008)

All the parts are here....


----------



## trt740 (Oct 14, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> All the parts are here....



cool get to it. I cannot wait to see it.


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 14, 2008)

Man, I have to try and resist until this weekend. So much on my plate right now.


----------



## trt740 (Oct 15, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> Man, I have to try and resist until this weekend. So much on my plate right now.



do it now!!!!!!


----------



## cdawall (Oct 15, 2008)

trt740 said:


> do it now!!!!!!



just dont rush it!


----------



## Wile E (Oct 15, 2008)

trt740 said:


> do it now!!!!!!



What he said.


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 16, 2008)

trt740 said:


> do it now!!!!!!



I can't handle the pressure...I'll get it set up tonight! LOL I'll post some pics as I progress. A quick question though. I've got 3/8" fittings on everything. Would I be better off using 7/16" tubing for a tighter fit?


----------



## cdawall (Oct 16, 2008)

yes


----------



## Whilhelm (Oct 16, 2008)

No don't use 7/16. I use that size to make it a tighter fit on 1/2" barbs. I just double checked and 7/16 is way to big for 3/8" barbs. Stick with what you have for now.


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 16, 2008)

Whilhelm said:


> No don't use 7/16. I use that size to make it a tighter fit on 1/2" barbs. I just double checked and 7/16 is way to big for 3/8" barbs. Stick with what you have for now.



LOL. I just did the math. You're right! . Is there a smaller size of tubing that would still fit on the 3/8 barbs for a tight fit?


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 16, 2008)

cdawall said:


> yes



Sorry man. Just did the math. 7/16" is actually larger. I'm actually embarrassed that I needed to ask.


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Oct 16, 2008)

I was using 3/8" before i switched to 1/2".3/8" tubing is a nice fit on 3/8" barbs,so it should be ok.


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 16, 2008)

tigger said:


> I was using 3/8" before i switched to 1/2".3/8" tubing is a nice fit on 3/8" barbs,so it should be ok.



I'm primarily concerned about the NB barbs. They are supposed to be 3/8" barbs, but the tubes slip on fairly easy compared to the cpu block and Rad.


----------



## DOM (Oct 16, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> I'm primarily concerned about the NB barbs. They are supposed to be 3/8" barbs, but the tubes slip on fairly easy compared to the cpu block and Rad.



well i know DaMulta used 3/8 on his ASUS 790i Ultra but like is it loose or just lil tight cuz you got clamps from them right


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 16, 2008)

DOM said:


> well i know DaMulta used 3/8 on his ASUS 790i Ultra but like is it loose or just lil tight cuz you got clamps from them right



It's not loose, just not as tight as the rest. I'm just a little paranoid, since It's my first time setting up WC.


----------



## DOM (Oct 16, 2008)

got claps right 

just make sure there tight 

you should be good

ppl make it seem harder then it is, look at my first time lol its in a mid size case


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 16, 2008)

DOM said:


> got claps right
> 
> just make sure there tight
> 
> ...



Actually it does seem easy. I'm only worried about getting leaks once I've turned the system on, and I can't test the loop outside the case, as the NB is in the loop too, and it's connected to the board.


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Oct 16, 2008)

The thing i learned from my first water build,is put clamps on every join,even if the tube seems tight on the barb.


----------



## DOM (Oct 16, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> Actually it does seem easy. I'm only worried about getting leaks once I've turned the system on, and I can't test the loop outside the case, as the NB is in the loop too, and it's connected to the board.



well you can disconect the psu from the mobo and jump start the psu to leak test cuz your just using distilled water right if it does it wont kill anything 

like tig said i used clamps on all even on the rad that has fatboys on it but i used the metal ones


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 16, 2008)

DOM said:


> well you can disconect the psu from the mobo and jump start the psu to leak test cuz your just using distilled water right if it does it wont kill anything
> 
> like tig said i used clamps on all even on the rad that has fatboys on it but i used the metal ones



I've got the plastic reusable clamps. They don't seem to clamp really tight. I think I may need to pick up some metal clamps for peace of mind.


----------



## mime_fx (Oct 16, 2008)

hi Paulieg . i have same setup us your first time .


----------



## cdawall (Oct 16, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> Sorry man. Just did the math. 7/16" is actually larger. I'm actually embarrassed that I needed to ask.



rofl i was thinking 1/2" barbs


----------



## Wile E (Oct 17, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> I've got the plastic reusable clamps. They don't seem to clamp really tight. I think I may need to pick up some metal clamps for peace of mind.



Just use a pair of pliers to tighten them. The plastic clamps work great.


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 17, 2008)

OK, I've got everything set up. During 2 test runs, I'm getting a small leak b/t the rad and the barb. It is NOT coming from the tubing. I just rethreaded again. I hope this fixes it. Could it be that the barb was not on tight enough? Does it have to be on REALLY tight?


----------



## erocker (Oct 17, 2008)

What kind of barbs are they?


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 17, 2008)

erocker said:


> What kind of barbs are they?



Just 3/8" metal fittings. I just tried again. Same small leak, and the fittings are on really tight.


----------



## imperialreign (Oct 17, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> Just 3/8" metal fittings. I just tried again. Same small leak, and the fittings are on really tight.



teflon tape might be in order . . .


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 17, 2008)

imperialreign said:


> teflon tape might be in order . . .



Man, I'm frustrated. So, how do use teflon tape to seal the leak?


----------



## JrRacinFan (Oct 17, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> Man, I'm frustrated. So, how do use teflon tape to seal the leak?



Take the tape and wrap it around the threading of the barb. Remember just like AS5, little goes long way.


----------



## sneekypeet (Oct 17, 2008)

also it needs to be wrapped in a way that when you tighten the barb you arent unwrapping the tape.

put the barb in your left hand....
threads to the right.....
wrap the tape around it away from you over the top then under.....
make 3-4 passes.

this way when you screw in the barb it goes with the tape and wont undo it!


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 17, 2008)

It's just annoying to have to deal with a new leaky rad. It can't be the barbs either. I've changed them out, with the same results. It would be a little less frustrating if I could take the loop out to test it, but the pump is three pin (needs MB header) and the NB block is attached to the board. I've already got a little water on my gtx260 and the sound card. I'll get some teflon tape tomorrow. I hope it fixes the problem. Some at XS suggested using silicone, but then it's permanent.


----------



## NastyHabits (Oct 17, 2008)

Teflon tape should do it for you.  Good luck


----------



## theJesus (Oct 17, 2008)

I have no w/c experience, but I saw this a while ago.  Says for waterblocks, but it's quite detailed (w1z made it!) and I assume it would work for a rad.


----------



## sneekypeet (Oct 17, 2008)

theJesus said:


> I have no w/c experience, but I saw this a while ago.  Says for waterblocks, but it's quite detailed (w1z made it!) and I assume it would work for a rad.



Nice find!!!!!


----------



## DOM (Oct 17, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> It's just annoying to have to deal with a new leaky rad. It can't be the barbs either. I've changed them out, with the same results. It would be a little less frustrating if I could take the loop out to test it, but the pump is three pin (needs MB header) and the NB block is attached to the board. I've already got a little water on my gtx260 and the sound card. I'll get some teflon tape tomorrow. I hope it fixes the problem. Some at XS suggested using silicone, but then it's permanent.



what did you use to tighten the barbs ? wrench ?


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 17, 2008)

DOM said:


> what did you use to tighten the barbs ? wrench ?



Yup, used a wrench. I took off the barb and put it back on several times, tightening it down as hard as I felt comfortable doing.


----------



## DOM (Oct 17, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> Yup, used a wrench. I took off the barb and put it back on several times, tightening it down as hard as I felt comfortable doing.



they have o-rings right, well hope the tape works cuz that sucks


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 17, 2008)

DOM said:


> they have o-rings right, well hope the tape works cuz that sucks



Yup, there are o-rings at the base of the threading. I'm thinking the threads on the rad are slightly imperfect. I just don't want to have to RMA the Rad. Not when I'm so close to having things set up. I can run it for a few minutes before it starts to leak. i'm loving the temp drop from air. Can't wait to really test things.


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 17, 2008)

Just as a precaution, should I just go ahead and teflon tape all of the barbs?


----------



## sneekypeet (Oct 17, 2008)

well on the rad I would. just to be sure the leak doesnt manifest on the other barb once you seal one off. Plus its out and you are there, might as well do it!


----------



## DOM (Oct 17, 2008)

so have you put tape on the rad ?

i would try a 1/4 turn more cuz if the o-ring isnt push done enough it well leak


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 17, 2008)

DOM said:


> so have you put tape on the rad ?
> 
> i would try a 1/4 turn more cuz if the o-ring isnt push done enough it well leak



I'm at work. I'll be stopping at Lowes on my way home, and tape it tonight.


----------



## DOM (Oct 17, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> I'm at work. I'll be stopping at Lowes on my way home, and tape it tonight.



lol i meant if the o-ring isnt push down enough it well leak, thats what makes the seal 


is it leaking from both or just one ?


----------



## phanbuey (Oct 17, 2008)

DOM said:


> so have you put tape on the rad ?
> 
> i would try a 1/4 turn more cuz if the o-ring isnt push done enough it well leak



Ive never used tape but prolly since i never had any... o-rings and slight tightening with pliers and ive havent had a leak yet - i thought tape was mostly for pipes/fittings that had no o-rings as such:

http://www.techpowerup.com/articles/cooling/water/136

"When you replace the barbs of a waterblock it is likely that there will be a bit of water leaking out. *One way to fix this is by using an O-Ring*, rubber works best in my opinion. But I prefer to use teflon tape since it's easy to come by and pretty cheap."


----------



## panchoman (Oct 17, 2008)

the silcone works really well too, and it does come off if the teflon tape doesn't work out for you


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 17, 2008)

DOM said:


> lol i meant if the o-ring isnt push down enough it well leak, thats what makes the seal
> 
> 
> is it leaking from both or just one ?



It's only leaking from one, and I made sure the o-ring was tight against the barb.


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 17, 2008)

phanbuey said:


> Ive never used tape but prolly since i never had any... o-rings and slight tightening with pliers and ive havent had a leak yet - i thought tape was mostly for pipes/fittings that had no o-rings as such:
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/articles/cooling/water/136



As I mentioned earlier, I'm wondering in the Rad's threading is slightly imperfect or something. I'm meticulous with things like this. I've trple checked the o-rings and I've tightened the heck out of the barbs.


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Oct 17, 2008)

Try lubeing the rubber ring with a bit of summat.I found if the rings are dry,they sometimes grip the metal surface of the barb/rad and bulge a bit from one side when you tighten them.


----------



## DOM (Oct 17, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> It's only leaking from one, and I made sure the o-ring was tight against the barb.



yeah it might need more cuz mine are tight then i give it a lil more havent had a leak sine my first loop


----------



## trt740 (Oct 17, 2008)

man I'm excited for ya paulie boy let use know how it goes. Water cooling scares me unless it's a full kit i would be totally lost.

I like these kits http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835108076
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835108105
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106117

I'm sure they are crap compared to your setup. Paul how did you know what to buy and how much was that beast.


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Oct 18, 2008)

Thermal take kit is cack,the swiftech apex kit is by far the best kit,and a great start to water cooling.


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 18, 2008)

trt740 said:


> man I'm excited for ya paulie boy let use know how it goes. Water cooling scares me unless it's a full kit i would be totally lost.
> 
> I like these kits http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835108076
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835108105
> ...



I just asked Wile E and Sneeky a ton of questions. I bought all my parts at Petra's and Performance PC. The people at Petra's are awesome. It's up and running now, and I'll post pics later. It really was pretty easy, and kind of fun. The temp differences are worth it.


----------



## DOM (Oct 18, 2008)

so did you have to use the tape ?

and where are the pics


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 20, 2008)

OK, problem with my camera. It's now working. I'll get some pics up tonight!


----------



## DaMulta (Oct 20, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> OK, problem with my camera. It's now working. I'll get some pics up tonight!



Damn it I come in this thread looking for pics and I hit this post at the very end


----------



## DaMulta (Oct 20, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> I'm primarily concerned about the NB barbs. They are supposed to be 3/8" barbs, but the tubes slip on fairly easy compared to the cpu block and Rad.



Here is what I did/before it's own loop/

Take a 3/8 line and go onto the bards then stick that 3/8 line into the 1/2 it will fit. Then clamp that tube.

It does not really kill the flow.......


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 23, 2008)

OK, here's some pic's. Take it easy on me guys, since it is my first attempt! Better tubing and cable management coming soon.


----------



## erocker (Oct 23, 2008)

Awesome man!!  I was considering puttin my radiator in the same position as yours.  Did you have any troubles bleeding the air out?  I assume the resevoir is in the HDD bay.


----------



## DOM (Oct 23, 2008)

looks good 

I would of did res>pump>cpu>nb>rad>res

cuz so the blocks wont losse flow from going trough the rad first but still


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 23, 2008)

erocker said:


> Awesome man!!  I was considering puttin my radiator in the same position as yours.  Did you have any troubles bleeding the air out?  I assume the resevoir is in the HDD bay.



This HAF is designed to to mount the rad up top. You just take out the 240mm fan, and voila! Pre drilled for mounting. Yeah, I put the microres in the drive bay. Bleeding seemed to go fine, though I'm not sure I'd noticed if it didn't. I do think I may buy some better tubing at some point, but since I knew I'd have some screw ups, I went with the cheap stuff.


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 23, 2008)

DOM said:


> looks good
> 
> I would of did res>pump>cpu>nb>rad>res
> 
> cuz so the blocks wont losse flow from going trough the rad first but still



Yeah, I may try that map after I get some better tubing.


----------



## DOM (Oct 23, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> Yeah, I may try that map after I get some better tubing.



yeah never liked that kind  ive only used tygon


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 23, 2008)

When I want to empty the line to replace the tubing, what's the best way to do this?


----------



## DOM (Oct 23, 2008)

i take off the res and drain it then make it the lowest so it can fill up then do it agian then tilt the case to get most off it out the take the blocks off


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 23, 2008)

DOM said:


> i take off the res and drain it then make it the lowest so it can fill up then do it agian then tilt the case to get most off it out the take the blocks off



Do you run the pump after you take off the res to drain it?


----------



## DOM (Oct 23, 2008)

no, no need to and your not suppose to run it ewith out water/coolant


----------



## _jM (Oct 23, 2008)

Is that the CoolerMaster HAF case? LOL @ ME i just saw it was.. I wonder how adequate the cooling would be if you mounted the Rad at the bottom and put the PSU up top. Maybe put some casters on the case in order to keep it up higher.


----------



## Sasqui (Oct 23, 2008)

Nice job  - finally got to see some pics of the case you stole from me 

Any plans to put the GTX in the loop?


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 23, 2008)

_jM said:


> Is that the CoolerMaster HAF case? LOL @ ME i just saw it was.. I wonder how adequate the cooling would be if you mounted the Rad at the bottom and put the PSU up top. Maybe put some casters on the case in order to keep it up higher.



Yeah, I'll be playing around with the rad placement and loop configuration over the next couple of weeks. I'm just happy to have it up and running. It was really fun, and easier than I thought it would be. Now I've got another addiction to contend with!


----------



## trt740 (Oct 23, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> OK, here's some pic's. Take it easy on me guys, since it is my first attempt!



it looks great man !!!!!! great job! I love it


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 23, 2008)

Sasqui said:


> Nice job  - finally got to see some pics of the case you stole from me
> 
> Any plans to put the GTX in the loop?



No plans to add the gtx260 to the loop. It stays nice and cool, even overclocked.


----------



## DaMulta (Oct 24, 2008)

U used the tubes that leak hard core!!!!

But they don't bend very easy, I liked using them just beware.


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 24, 2008)

DaMulta said:


> U used the tubes that leak hard core!!!!
> 
> But they don't bend very easy, I liked using them just beware.



I've put teflon tape around all of the fittings, and the tubes are going to be replaced very soon. How does everyone feel about compression fittings? Oh, and all constructive criticism is welcome!


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Oct 24, 2008)

The bp compression fittings are very nice,i'm considering trying them myself,though it will cost me £35($70ish) for enough to do my loop.I'm running my loop with a t-line now,its pretty good,temps are exactly the same with a res.


----------



## Wile E (Oct 24, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> I've put teflon tape around all of the fittings, and the tubes are going to be replaced very soon. How does everyone feel about compression fittings? Oh, and all constructive criticism is welcome!



Most compression fittings hamper flow a little. If you want good fittings, I'd just go with the bitspower fittings all around, and use stainless steel worm-drive clamps. 

Also, I wouldn't personally use the reinforced 1/2 ID tubing. The ID actually tends to be a hair larger than 1/2", and can be a pain to keep from leaking. I would just use plain old clear vinyl tubing. Super cheap and effective. If you want a nice tight seal, use 7/16" ID tubing. It'll squeeze onto 1/2" fittings nice and tight. So tight in fact, that most of the time it won't leak, even without clamps (but still use the clamps. lol)

Your loop order is fine. I prefer putting the rad just before the res, but others say to do it the way you have it. Doesn't really make a whole lot of difference.


----------



## Whilhelm (Oct 24, 2008)

Really nice job for your first watercooling adventure. You kept the tube lengths to the minimum and the layout is very good. I originally planned on using tubing like that but it was way too stiff and difficult to work with. If you intend in replacing it and the fittings I would say don't bother with compressions because they are way too much money once you add them all up. I would say 7/16th masterclear with either EK, Bitspower or Danger Den 1/2" highflows would be the cheapest setup that would give you the best flow and the tightest seal. I can vouch for the masterclear stuff it is cheap flexible and lasts pretty well. 

Other than that I would say it looks sweet and great job .


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 24, 2008)

Wile E said:


> Most compression fittings hamper flow a little. If you want good fittings, I'd just go with the bitspower fittings all around, and use stainless steel worm-drive clamps.
> 
> Also, I wouldn't personally use the reinforced 1/2 ID tubing. The ID actually tends to be a hair larger than 1/2", and can be a pain to keep from leaking. I would just use plain old clear vinyl tubing. Super cheap and effective. If you want a nice tight seal, use 7/16" ID tubing. It'll squeeze onto 1/2" fittings nice and tight. So tight in fact, that most of the time it won't leak, even without clamps (but still use the clamps. lol)
> 
> Your loop order is fine. I prefer putting the rad just before the res, but others say to do it the way you have it. Doesn't really make a whole lot of difference.



I don't really have the option to move to 1/2" fittings, unless I want to replace the Asus NB Fusion block on my Maximus Formula. There is no way to to replace the NB barbs They are built right into the block  (I'm not interested in using adapters which seem to create more leak potential). So, I'm really just looking for better 3/8" barbs and tubing.

Cyberdruid is recommending these EK fittings:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=365&products_id=21944


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Oct 24, 2008)

barbs-
http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=64_73&products_id=724
or
http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=64_73&products_id=683

Tubing-
http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=44_116_149&products_id=686

tigger


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 24, 2008)

tigger said:


> barbs-
> http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=64_73&products_id=724
> or
> http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=64_73&products_id=683
> ...



From the advice I'm receiving, I'm probably going to stick with traditional barbs, either the EK's or Fat boys.


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Oct 24, 2008)

I'm using mostly ek barbs,1/2" though.


----------



## Whilhelm (Oct 24, 2008)

If you want to go to 1/2" barbs I have a swiftech MCW30 that I used on the NB and a replacement SB heatsink if you are interested.


----------



## PaulieG (Oct 24, 2008)

Whilhelm said:


> If you want to go to 1/2" barbs I have a swiftech MCW30 that I used on the NB and a replacement SB heatsink if you are interested.



Thanks for the offer man. I think I'll wait awhile before I dive any deeper into this. I'll just enjoy my loop for awhile!


----------



## Skywalker12345 (Nov 12, 2008)

how much did your cpu and NB temps fall?


----------



## PaulieG (Nov 23, 2008)

I traded my Asus Maximus, and now have a DFI x48. So, I'm reworking my WC loop. This time I've decided to mount my rad to the bottom, and move the psu to the top. I've also moved the pump to the bottom of the HDD bays. I cracked my micro res, but I'm planning to mount a new res a 5 1/4" bay or in the bottom of the 5 1/4" bays w/ double sided tape. Thoughts on what res to get? It needs to be fairly small.






Cable management comes later.


----------



## PaulieG (Nov 23, 2008)

Newtekie1 suggested that instead of a new res, that it would be easier to add a T Line instead. Anyone have thoughts on this?


----------



## Sonido (Nov 23, 2008)

I'm guessing you went against the NB loop for now?


----------



## PaulieG (Nov 23, 2008)

Sonido said:


> I'm guessing you went against the NB loop for now?



Yeah, I don't have a NB block right now. That will come later.


----------



## Hayder_Master (Nov 23, 2008)

see this maybe got some tips from it 
http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/


----------



## Wile E (Nov 23, 2008)

Paulieg said:


> Newtekie1 suggested that instead of a new res, that it would be easier to add a T Line instead. Anyone have thoughts on this?



T lines are a bit harder to bleed. I prefer using a res, personally.


----------



## Deleted member 24505 (Nov 23, 2008)

I had mine on a t-line before i put my xspc restop back on,and it took nearly 2 days to bleed the air out of the t-line,and a couple of hours to bleed with the res top.


----------



## PaulieG (Nov 23, 2008)

tigger said:


> I had mine on a t-line before i put my xspc restop back on,and it took nearly 2 days to bleed the air out of the t-line,and a couple of hours to bleed with the res top.



I think I'm going to stick with a res. I just think it looks better, and less of a hassle to bleed it.


----------



## CyberDruid (Nov 23, 2008)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...e=product_info&cPath=59_318&products_id=22012

PPC used to have a "Tanky" branded acrylic Reservoir $10 cheaper than this with no brass inserts for the screws. I have not used XSPC stuff but I have used a number of these type of bay reservoirs.

http://www.petrastechshop.com/ekmure2.html

I have used lots of the EK 250 cylinder reservoirs. The make a shorter 150mm one too. The base has two side mounted ports which will often eliminate a tight bend and one bottom mounted port which can be a drain or a supply to the pump.

Rather than choose between reservoir and T Line I use both  Seriously. And I usually use a Female-to-Female G-1/4 fitting to join the pump and res to eliminate one more tube. But the idea is you run the T line to the top of the case above the EK res and use a DD Delrin FilPort and now you do not have to open the case or undo the mounting screws or leave extra slack in the lopp to access the fill on the reservoir. Plus it bleeds really really fast. You simply leave the filport uncapped with some fluid in the line and air will pass up the line.

The clips that hold the cylinder can be mounted internally where you now have your 24 pin power cable. The FilPort can be located directly above in the top panel. The DB-1 pump (if that is what I see there) can be attached directly to the res and resting on a Gel Pad or a patch of velcro to absorb the sound.


----------



## kyle2020 (Dec 14, 2008)

So paulie, any updates on this new res situation?

I hope you realise your the one thats making me spend £150 odd on a WC loop myself, yours looked so good i just had to write up some plans


----------



## p_o_s_pc (Dec 14, 2008)

Wile E said:


> I alway run res>pump>cpu>rad>res.
> 
> In my old setup, I had the Rad front mounted on my Stacker, but mostly, I wanted to show you my pump and res setup, you can put your rad wherever it fits best.
> 
> ...



thats sexy and gave me an idea for my case thank you


----------



## cdawall (Dec 14, 2008)

i just got dual magicool 150mL res's off XS have you looked at just getting a used one?


----------



## PaulieG (Dec 14, 2008)

cdawall said:


> i just got dual magicool 150mL res's off XS have you looked at just getting a used one?



I bought a DD 5.25 drive bay res from HET. I also had a friend here at TPU send me another Micro Res for free all the way from Scotland (you know who you are). I think I like the micro res better. It may sound weird, but the pump seems quieter when I use the Micro res.


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## CyberDruid (Dec 15, 2008)

IT's quite possible. Gabe put a lot of thought into that design. I modded several by porting the bottom and retapping them to G-1/4 (1/4BSPP). I like to use about a 10" fill tube on the top port and I like to tap the bottom and use a short run direct to the pump inlet. The sideports I use the bottom for a return and just capoff the other. That little angled piece in there had one design flaw that Gabe has since corrected...it tends to trap a bubbleof air. He now makes them with alittle hole there to let the air up and out and () he now ports thebottom and has the ports tapped G-1/4. 

Hmmmm.


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