# Worse temps after delid 4770k cpu



## Good Guru (Jan 4, 2017)

I delided my 4770k cpu and the temperatures are worse. I am using Coolabratory Liquid Pro on die and on the  underside of the IHS, and MX-4 on top between the top of the IHS and waterblock heatsink.

I have cleaned everything totally and re-applied the Coolabratory Liquid Pro 5x, thoroughly cleaning in between applications. Still same worse temps than before, even when I was using just MX-4 on die for 2 days, before I found out it's no good on-the cpu bare die.

Thanks for any help or advice!


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## v12dock (Jan 4, 2017)

Did you remove the black adhesive between the heat spreader and die to insure proper contact?


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## Kursah (Jan 4, 2017)

What are your before and after temps looking like?

I've been contemplating doing the same to my 4790K, but not sure I wanna go the CLP route or not.

Did you clean off the IHS glue around the perimeter? I have heard something even the thickness of a piece of paper between the CPU's PCB and IHS will cause CLP temps to increase.


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## Good Guru (Jan 4, 2017)

v12dock said:


> Did you remove the black adhesive between the heat spreader and die to insure proper contact?



Yes it's all cleaned up. 

Before temps I could run say OCCT non-avx, POV-Ray, Hyper-pi, IBT, Prime95 2.66, and X264 stress tests before delid - under 90c 4.6 Ghz 1.34 Vcore now above 90c even at 4.3 1.184 Vcore.


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## Arrakis9 (Jan 4, 2017)

v12dock said:


> Did you remove the black adhesive between the heat spreader and die to insure proper contact?





Kursah said:


> Did you clean off the IHS glue around the perimeter? I have heard something even the thickness of a piece of paper between the CPU's PCB and IHS will cause CLP temps to increase.



this. if you don't clean off the glue you wont make good contact.


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## Kursah (Jan 4, 2017)

Good Guru said:


> Yes it's all cleaned up.
> 
> Before temps I could run say OCCT non-avx, POV-Ray, Hyper-pi, IBT, Prime95 2.66, and X264 stress tests before delid - under 90c 4.6 Ghz 1.34 Vcore now above 90c even at 4.3 1.184 Vcore.



How are you applying CLP to the CPU? 
Are you applying a light coating to the IHS as well?
Did you re-glue the IHS to the CPU or not? Some folks do some don't...many say let the CLP set and it'll hold the IHS after you secure it in the socket.
What's your cooler? 
Is it the same cooler you were using before? 
Has anything else changed?


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## Good Guru (Jan 4, 2017)

Same cooler Phobya UAC-1 Extreme waterblock.

I applied very light amount just enough to cover the area like painted on...not really any tiny liquid drops between the die and IHS.

No I did not re-glue it's being held down by the retention mechanism. No movement hardly when seating it down.


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## v12dock (Jan 4, 2017)

If you take the heat spreader off do you see the CLP on the backside of it?


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## Frogger (Jan 4, 2017)

Check to see if the ISH is flat might need some lapping.


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## Good Guru (Jan 4, 2017)

All the time I reapplied the CLP it DID NOT show up on  the underside of the IHS. 

The last time I applied it though I put the CLP also on the underside of the IHS.....STILL BAD (worse temps)


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## Solaris17 (Jan 4, 2017)

Doesnt sound like its making good contact.



Good Guru said:


> All the time I reapplied the CLP it DID NOT show up on  the underside of the IHS.
> 
> The last time I applied it though I put the CLP also on the underside of the IHS.....STILL BAD (worse temps)



That doesnt matter. If you Applied iot to both times and got bad temps, then you applied it only to the IHS and got bad temps and when CHECKING the cooler there was no thermal paste their is a gap.


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## peche (Jan 4, 2017)

Kursah said:


> Did you clean off the IHS glue around the perimeter? I have heard something even the thickness of a piece of paper between the CPU's PCB and IHS will cause CLP temps to increase.


you won this time! i was about to ...!

also, @Good Guru fill sys specs ... its a computer forum... help to be helped...

when delidding you must:
Clean out everything you take out, CPU die and IHS, how? pretty easy, get an old credit card, scrape all glue from processors PCB, then do the same on the CPU IHS, use* isopropyl alcohol* also for clean out process you should use coffee filters, they are all lint free,

when applying Coollaboratory liquid PRO you must:
Be sure that CPU die is as clean as possible, what for scratches on bare die, also the same on the IHS surface that faces the die,

when applying coollab you must use a clean eartip for trying to expand liquid metal, then without placing back CPU die seat the processor on socket tray, finally, apply a small thin layer of coollab on the processor, be sure to apply a thin layer, then place back all things and secure processor at his tray on the motherboard, then apply the paste over CPU IHS, thats all ...


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## revin (Jan 5, 2017)

Good Guru said:


> Before temps I could run say OCCT non-avx, POV-Ray, Hyper-pi, IBT, Prime95 2.66, and X264 stress tests before delid - under 90c 4.6 Ghz 1.34 Vcore now above 90c even at 4.3 1.184 Vcore





Good Guru said:


> Same cooler Phobya UAC-1 Extreme waterblock


You had those high temps before and after on* water *?


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## FR@NK (Jan 5, 2017)

Just run it direct die...


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## hat (Jan 5, 2017)

FR@NK said:


> Just run it direct die...



Now that's hardcore.


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## Vario (Jan 5, 2017)

Could lap the edges of the lid where it used to sit on the black adhesive, so it sits lower closer to the die, shaving its height down.


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## Jetster (Jan 5, 2017)

Watch some deliding video and see what you did wrong


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## revin (Jan 5, 2017)

Jetster said:


> see what you did wrong


But what about before, with it on water wouldn't it seem that something else might be in play that is wrong to start with ? like was there water in it
Do you water guy's even get close to "under 90c" ?   .Always had the impression that water kept those test temps far lower
I think something else besides the delid is wrong


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## FR@NK (Jan 5, 2017)

revin said:


> Always had the impression that water kept those test temps far lower



At high power levels there is a large temp difference between the die and the IHS due to the crappy TIM intel used on these chips. His water cooling is probably doing a great job keeping the IHS cool.


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## Vario (Jan 5, 2017)

Good Guru said:


> All the time I reapplied the CLP it DID NOT show up on  the underside of the IHS.
> 
> The last time I applied it though I put the CLP also on the underside of the IHS.....STILL BAD (worse temps)




Seems like theres still too big of a gap between the IHS and the die.



Jetster said:


> Watch some deliding video and see what you did wrong


why not just use vise only


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## revin (Jan 5, 2017)

FR@NK said:


> At high power levels there is a large temp difference between the die and the IHS due to the crappy TIM intel used on these chips. His water cooling is probably doing a great job keeping the IHS cool.


That don't make sense to me, but I'm old. This sound's more like laptop temp's even if it is a hotter chip.
So water cooling guy's get around 90c running those test when Air guys don't?
I understand a lot of members here would talk about maybe 70-75 max  but 90 or more, no way a proper water cooled member has reported that high as OP has unless something else was wrong.. 
I do concur that the lid is still not setting down correct.



Good Guru said:


> I was using just MX-4 on die for 2 days, before I found out it's no good on-the cpu bare die


Also @Good Guru you saying you tried mounting the block direct to the bare delidded CPU?
What temps did you have with no load[mx4 and CLP], and have you did any gaming or something other than just stress test's ?
What temps were they ?
Is the cooling pump and loop all flowing correctly?


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## Caring1 (Jan 5, 2017)

Good Guru said:


> All the time I reapplied the CLP it DID NOT show up on  the underside of the IHS.





FR@NK said:


> Just run it direct die...


If it's not making contact, it's pointless filling that space with TIM, remove the IHS and run it bare under the water cooling as mentioned.


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## hat (Jan 5, 2017)

I feel I should mention that you run the risk of potentially cracking/crushing that CPU die running direct contact. On the flip side, there's no way to get better than direct die contact. This sort of thing happened occasionally with AMD socket A processors, before they started using heatspreaders... that's there mainly to protect the CPU die from being crushed. I suppose you've got the guts to do it though, seeing as you've already delidded anyway...


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## Vario (Jan 5, 2017)

Caring1 said:


> If it's not making contact, it's pointless filling that space with TIM, remove the IHS and run it bare under the water cooling as mentioned.


Just lap the bottom of the IHS so the edges are not as tall.  Then it sits closer to the die.


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## trog100 (Jan 5, 2017)

the spreader needs to sit on the die.. tim is just there to fill any tiny air gaps.. clean it all up remove all glue and lap the base of the spreader.. all cooler block pressure should be taken by the die if its done properly..

the original problem is not caused by the tim intel use its caused by a poor fit and too much tim filling too large a gap.. no tim is that bad..

the results from "dedidding" will vary depending on how bad things were to start with.. no way should it ever be worse than the intel  attempt.. if it is.. lap the base of the spreader until your are sure its making good contact with the die..

intel rely on a good dollop of tim to fill any air gaps.. tim is better than air but that is about all that can be said for it.. which is why it should be kept to a minimum.. but having said that the spreader does need to be applying good contact pressure with the die.. if it isnt the best tim in the world (minimally applied) will do bugger all.. the end result will be an air gap with poor thermal transfer..

trog


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## peche (Jan 5, 2017)

i have never lap or something similar, you just have to clean all the mess, black silicone, thermal paste left overs and whatever you might find there, leave the processor die and IHS clean, thats it, and sit back processor carefully without the IHS, that one will be the last thing followed by closing CPU tray back


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## Vario (Jan 5, 2017)

peche said:


> i have never lap or something similar, you just have to clean all the mess, black silicone, thermal paste left overs and whatever you might find there, leave the processor die and IHS clean, thats it, and sit back processor carefully without the IHS, that one will be the last thing followed by closing CPU tray back


Probably your IHS just happens to be closer to the die, his isn't.


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## peche (Jan 5, 2017)

Vario said:


> Probably your IHS just happens to be closer to the die, his isn't.


generally none of all done delids, thats incluide several i7's  like 3570K, 3770, 3770K, 4570k 4690k 4770k & 4790K and a petium G series, none of them have been glued back, and the best results are for 3770 & 3770k's samples,


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## Vario (Jan 5, 2017)

peche said:


> generally none of all done delids, thats incluide several i7's  like 3570K, 3770, 3770K, 4570k 4690k 4770k & 4790K and a petium G series, none of them have been glued back, and the best results are for 3770 & 3770k's samples,


Yeah I never glued my old chip back either.  Just put the lid back on after thermal paste the die, and clamped it with motherboard's retainer system.


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## peche (Jan 5, 2017)

Vario said:


> Yeah I never glued my old chip back either.  Just put the lid back on after thermal paste the die, and clamped it with motherboard's retainer system.


same here, glue-in back its not bad at all, i haven't done it before cause i have never decided what to use for glue-in back the IHS

Regards,


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## yogurt_21 (Jan 5, 2017)

hat said:


> Now that's hardcore.


it used to be the norm. Forgive me for showing my age here but why the F would you put the IHS back on after removing it? One of the main benefits of delidding is getting back to direct contact between the die and your heatsink, just like we did in the althon xp days. The IHS was put there to protect the manufacturers from noobs who fubared their cpus by either cranking the heatsink down too tight or just plain mishandling it. A sheet of metal isn't adding anything to the equation that your heatsink isn't already doing.


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## Vario (Jan 5, 2017)

yogurt_21 said:


> it used to be the norm. Forgive me for showing my age here but why the F would you put the IHS back on after removing it? One of the main benefits of delidding is getting back to direct contact between the die and your heatsink, just like we did in the althon xp days. The IHS was put there to protect the manufacturers from noobs who fubared their cpus by either cranking the heatsink down too tight or just plain mishandling it. A sheet of metal isn't adding anything to the equation that your heatsink isn't already doing.


Because the modern heatsinks clamp tighter then the Socket A heatsinks and the CPU itself is designed to be protected by the IHS, therefore it is more fragile and susceptible to damage from over clamping.  The Socket A also had little rubber dampeners on the corners.


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## yogurt_21 (Jan 5, 2017)

so you put it back on to avoid spending 30 cents on rubber?


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## Kursah (Jan 5, 2017)

peche said:


> same here, glue-in back its not bad at all, i haven't done it before cause i have never decided what to use for glue-in back the IHS
> 
> Regards,



From what I've read a lotta folks use RTV sealant, which I happen to have a tube from due to resealing work on my wife's car. Something like *this *should work and is cheap.

For me I'd prefer to keep the IHS on rather than running naked, but then delidding is not something I commonly do. I'd also like to glue the IHS back down and keep the CPU stock in appearance and build, with an improved TIM between IHS and die. That's my goal when I do decide to delid my 4790K.

I can see those seeking maximum performance wanting to keep the IHS off...but inversely I see keeping it on being useful for protecting the die, not rigging up rubber bushings to keep the HSF flat against the die when the IHS can get that job done. I'd also rather seek a long-term maintained improvement at a slight cost of cooling performance rather than short term maximum improvements, this is definitely a preferential thing for users.

I do see where some folks were using shims or the *MSI plate* on certain main boards. That might be an option for some...but doesn't seem widely available beyond a few select boards.


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## peche (Jan 5, 2017)

i as thinking about loctite thermal resistant adhesives, they perform great and also gasket silicone, 2 pretty affordable and always available options at every hardware store, also since i dont know how they will behave, if chemicals or ingredients of this silicone will divide due heat or produce vapors that could affect temps, so thats why im not using it, also arctic alumina adhesive its another interesting option, 



Kursah said:


> For me I'd prefer to keep the IHS on rather than running naked, but then delidding is not something I commonly do. I'd also like to glue the IHS back down and keep the CPU stock in appearance and build, with an improved TIM between IHS and die. That's my goal when I do decide to delid my 4790K.



the moar you pause delid, the higher temps you will be facing, delid its a pretty easy process, all you need its a sharpen razor blade and quite much patience, it takes less than 5 minutes, cleaning takes a bit moar but still part of the exciting process!


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## Kursah (Jan 5, 2017)

Well I still gotta order the TIM that I plan to use between die and IHS. I am taking your suggestions and running with em though! 

RTV is a high temp sealant, I've read of A LOT of delidders using it to keep the IHS in place...and as an auto mechanic I used it a bunch on engines, transmissions, differentials, etc. for various sealing surfaces.


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## phanbuey (Jan 5, 2017)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/thermal-grizzly-conductonaut-high-performance-thermal-grease-1g.html


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## Kursah (Jan 5, 2017)

phanbuey said:


> http://www.performance-pcs.com/thermal-grizzly-conductonaut-high-performance-thermal-grease-1g.html



Doesn't seem to really be in stock anywhere nor available on Amazon with the rest of Thermal Grizzly's stuff. Makes me wonder if it is discontinued?


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## Sasqui (Jan 5, 2017)

FR@NK said:


> Just run it direct die...



That's how my 3570k sits now.  Honestly, there was about zero difference vs. aftermarket TIM.  The hard part was getting even pressure on the die.  I worked on it for about an hour before I could get the system stable, the pins weren't making contact evenly.


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## yogurt_21 (Jan 5, 2017)

Sasqui said:


> That's how my 3570k sits now.  Honestly, there was about zero difference vs. aftermarket TIM.  The hard part was getting even pressure on the die.  I worked on it for about an hour before I could get the system stable, the pins weren't making contact evenly.


a common de-lid complaint. Its never really guaranteed to do anything and if the factory used good TIM, it especially won't do anything. 

but for me if you already are bothering to de-lid, and then suddenly you're afraid of running without it...maybe you all should steer clear of this to begin with. 

might as well be the guy who bought a phase change cooler and then was too afraid to actually use it. He knew he was going to have to deal with condensation when he bought it.


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## peche (Jan 5, 2017)

Kursah said:


> Well I still gotta order the TIM that I plan to use between die and IHS. I am taking your suggestions and running with em though!


did ya already decided the thermal p you are going to use?
my votes its to go Coollab ultra  + MX4, despite Thermal Grizzly stil tentative!



Kursah said:


> RTV is a high temp sealant, I've read of A LOT of delidders using it to keep the IHS in place...and as an auto mechanic I used it a bunch on engines, transmissions, differentials, etc. for various sealing surfaces.



will make a try on 2 damaged older processor i have, to see how ihard to apply and glue back will this process could be, thanks for the cheer up!


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## Kursah (Jan 5, 2017)

peche said:


> did ya already decided the thermal p you are going to use?
> my votes its to go Coollab ultra  + MX4, despite Thermal Grizzly stil tentative!



I haven't decided TBH. I would like to try the Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, but it seems to be hard to find and cost more than it is worth when you do.

From reading it seems that Ultra trades a little efficiency for being far easier to use and clean, while still being far more effective than any other non-metallic solution out there, even trading blows with Pro in some comparisons. 

I have a bunch of MX4, though there's some other options I was looking at... Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut was one of them and Gelid GC-Extreme was another. Though really, I'll probably stick with my big tube of MX4, and maybe get another tube of the Noctua stuff that's treated me so well that came with my U14S. 

At this point if I want to get this going...Thermal Grizzly is out of the picture, which doesn't bother me much. I'm still on the fence if I wanna kill my warranty yet or not too. But I'm getting eager. Maybe I'll delid my server's 4790K and swap it in my main rig to see how that changes things with it, since it was the worst out of my two chips when used out of box.


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## Sasqui (Jan 5, 2017)

yogurt_21 said:


> a common de-lid complaint. Its never really guaranteed to do anything and if the factory used good TIM, it especially won't do anything.
> 
> but for me if you already are bothering to de-lid, and then suddenly you're afraid of running without it...maybe you all should steer clear of this to begin with.
> 
> might as well be the guy who bought a phase change cooler and then was too afraid to actually use it. He knew he was going to have to deal with condensation when he bought it.



No pain, no gain.  I'm still running the system with no IHS after some 4 years.  If I could do it all over again knowing what I know now ...I wouldn't do it all over again.


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## peche (Jan 5, 2017)

Kursah said:


> I haven't decided TBH. I would like to try the Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, but it seems to be hard to find and cost more than it is worth when you do.


yes, compared to other brand they charge premium, 



Kursah said:


> From reading it seems that Ultra trades a little efficiency for being far easier to use and clean, while still being far more effective than any other non-metallic solution out there, even trading blows with Pro in some comparisons.


coollab ultra is the easiest paste to apply, to remove and one of the best rated! for delid purposes...



Kursah said:


> I have a bunch of MX4, though there's some other options I was looking at... Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut was one of them and Gelid GC-Extreme was another. Though really, I'll probably stick with my big tube of MX4, and maybe get another tube of the Noctua stuff that's treated me so well that came with my U14S.


well at this point if you have a big bunch of MX4 just go ahead and order the missing liquid metal for the intended use, dont waste time with other if arctic meets all your requirements, as it does for me!


Kursah said:


> At this point if I want to get this going...Thermal Grizzly is out of the picture, which doesn't bother me much. I'm still on the fence if I wanna kill my warranty yet or not too. But I'm getting eager. Maybe I'll delid my server's 4790K and swap it in my main rig to see how that changes things with it, since it was the worst out of my two chips when used out of box.


thats a wise start, my first delid was on my main rig processor, no spare one if the operation went wrong!

Regards,


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## trog100 (Jan 9, 2017)

people seem to forget what tim is there for.. direct surface to surface is the ideal.. tim is there simply to fill any tiny air gaps between the two mating surfaces.. assuming the two mating surfaces are reasonably flat and properly put (pressed) together the amount of tim needed to fill the very tiny surface discrepancy air gaps is next to bugger all..

when you do the job yourself you make sure the die and spreader are properly mated together and sufficient contact pressure is applied.. this is what its all about.. not a lot else.. 

the motherboard clamping mechanism holds it all together there is no need to glue the lid back down.. 

the intel mass production dollop of tim and dollop of glue does the job well enough for what intel want.. but it can be done better if anyone want to take the time and trouble to do it.. correct assembly being the most important factor.. its got f-ck all to do with tim intel use.. 

trog


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## hat (Jan 9, 2017)

trog100 said:


> people seem to forget what tim is there for.. direct surface to surface is the ideal.. tim is there simply to fill any tiny air gaps between the two mating surfaces.. assuming the two mating surfaces are reasonably flat and properly put (pressed) together the amount of tim needed to fill the very tiny surface discrepancy air gaps is next to bugger all..
> 
> when you do the job yourself you make sure the die and spreader are properly mated together and sufficient contact pressure is applied.. this is what its all about.. not a lot else..
> 
> ...



True... to an extent. Some of us have painstakingly lapped to a mirror finish, but even that still requires thermal paste. You'll never get true surface to surface contact.

If I were to delid a processor, I'd clean it up as best as I could (probably with goo gone), apply a tiny amount of coollab liquid ultra between die and heatspreader, nothing else (no glue, let the retention mechanism hold it on), and mx-4 between heatspreader and heatsink.

In fact, if you're trying to glue the heatspreader back on, it could well be the glue that's causing a gap between the die and heatspreader, resulting in poor contact.


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## peche (Jan 9, 2017)

hat said:


> If I were to delid a processor, I'd clean it up as best as I could (probably with goo gone), apply a tiny amount of coollab liquid ultra between die and heatspreader, nothing else (no glue, let the retention mechanism hold it on), and mx-4 between heatspreader and heatsink.


thats how mine is working!  simplicity!



hat said:


> In fact, if you're trying to glue the heatspreader back on, it could well be the glue that's causing a gap between the die and heatspreader, resulting in poor contact.


not exactly, but makes sense a little, all depends how thick will be the layer of glue you use to paste it back !
i have no skills for glue it back so thats why i haven't paste back mine!

Regards,


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## hat (Jan 9, 2017)

That glue _will_ have a thickness, no matter how small. When we're talking about tight tolerances like this, there's not much wiggle room. Best to leave out the glue.


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## phanbuey (Jan 9, 2017)

hat said:


> That glue _will_ have a thickness, no matter how small. When we're talking about tight tolerances like this, there's not much wiggle room. Best to leave out the glue.



I would bet this is what is causing the issue.  That die is not even half a millimeter thick.  When I was trying to run bare on the 6700k, I was using my business card as an offset in the corners, and it was making poor contact because the business card was too thick.


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## Kursah (Jan 9, 2017)

hat said:


> That glue _will_ have a thickness, no matter how small. When we're talking about tight tolerances like this, there's not much wiggle room. Best to leave out the glue.



Yep I agree, but I've read that quite a few folks have been able to RTV their IHS back on after applying CLP, CLU, Cryo, etc. with success. This is the method I plan to take as I intend the CLU application of my 4790K's to be a permanent or long-term solution. Then I don't need to worry about being as careful if I do a board swap or heatsink re-seat, etc. It is easy to do a thin layer of RTV sealant...but it is also easy to go too thin and lose the adhesive properties...so finding a happy medium between that and a good IHS to die bond is the challenge. 

I figure at worst, as you say, the action of re-gluing the IHS will have to be discarded. But from all the delidding response I've read, quite a few were able to re-glue the IHS with success...though there were also a few that had issues. I think it also comes down to what is used and how it is used. I've heard a thickness of a piece of paper is too thick. Luckily I have experience applying thin runs of RTV sealant. I will definitely either report back here or in my own thread when I do this task on my CPU's. But I DO NOT plan to run either CPU naked.


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## hat (Jan 9, 2017)

Yeah, running without the IHS at all is probably a bad idea, considering the possibility of cracking the die and other issues that have been reported.


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## Good Guru (Jan 11, 2017)

Ok fellas I have redone the cpu 10 times exactly lol! Don't worry I have used clear nail polish on this 4770k Haswells' IVRM's .

It has to be the gap between the dye and IHS. 

When I put the lid on the liquid metal dye it is covering the underside of the lid with Liquid Metal. But still not great temperatures.

I will sand down the edges on the underside of the IHS lid, to shorten the gap.


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## trog100 (Jan 11, 2017)

Good Guru said:


> Ok fellas I have redone the cpu 10 times exactly lol! Don't worry I have used clear nail polish on this 4770k Haswells' IVRM's .
> 
> It has to be the gap between the dye and IHS.
> 
> ...


 
yep.. 

trog

ps.. as for the people who feel the need to re-glue the lid back on there really is no advantage and a possible disadvantage.. intel has to do it because the the cpu package would fall apart else.. he he..

when its all assembled on the spot in the machine there is no need to glue the lid back on..


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## Good Guru (Jan 11, 2017)

Well I sanded down the lid, IHS underside edges to where my fingernail barely catches on the edges. It is still very bad temps worse than before delid hmm.

I am using a small amount of Liquid metal on cpu dye and under the lid, just enough to cover the cpu dye if I try to use any less liquid metal it wont cover the entire cpu dye.


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## Sasqui (Jan 11, 2017)

Good Guru said:


> Well I sanded down the lid, IHS underside edges to where my fingernail barely catches on the edges. It is still very bad temps worse than before delid hmm.
> 
> I am using a small amount of Liquid metal on cpu dye and under the lid, just enough to cover the cpu dye if I try to use any less liquid metal it wont cover the entire cpu dye.



Can you share a pic of the die and both sides of the lid?

It's sounding more like your heatsink isn't making contact.  Yoe ARE using TIM between the IHS and the heatsink, right?  ...have to ask.


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## Good Guru (Jan 11, 2017)

I'll get some pics.

Yes I am using MX-4 between the lid and waterblock heatsink.


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## Good Guru (Jan 11, 2017)

Here the pics this is after taking the lid back off guess I might have used a bit too much TIM


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## Sasqui (Jan 11, 2017)

Good Guru said:


> Here the pics



Somethings missing ;P


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## peche (Jan 11, 2017)

Good Guru said:


> Here the pics


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## Kursah (Jan 11, 2017)

Good Guru said:


> Here the pics



Not sure who you're using for an image host, but I recommend Techpowerup.org, then you can copy the BBC code right to your post. Has never failed me in almost 10 years.


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## Good Guru (Jan 11, 2017)

Heres the underside of teh lid after taking the IHS back off.


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## Good Guru (Jan 11, 2017)

Its getting good contact between the IHS and waterblock.


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## peche (Jan 11, 2017)

Good Guru said:


> Its getting good contact between the IHS and waterblock.


post all the possible pics sir...


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## Sasqui (Jan 11, 2017)

Good Guru said:


> Here the pics this is after taking the lid back off guess I might have used a bit too much TIM



Isn't that stuff conductive?  It looks like it's shorting a bunch of capacitors on the package...


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## Good Guru (Jan 11, 2017)




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## Sasqui (Jan 11, 2017)

Good Guru said:


> View attachment 82935



That looks ok to me.  Looks like a waterblock.  Stupid question.... are you sure the pump is working???


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## peche (Jan 11, 2017)

overhal: both pics show great contact.... how is CPU die, post a pic... 
also you better check the perfomance on your waterloop... if possible test another cpu ...


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## Good Guru (Jan 25, 2017)

Sorry long time getting back. It was the waterblock the arrow pointing in is where water should go out and the arrow pointing out is where water should go in lol. Besides that the waterblock is top notch really and was super polished and flat.


Also I ended up running it direct dye to waterblock and the temps are 20c+ cooler then ever before.


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