# Custom Hi-Fi Systems/Car Subwoofers for PC Speakers



## WOG-BOY (Apr 7, 2010)

For all of thoes audio lovers with custom equipment eg. hi-fi speakers, amps and car subwoofers

show off your setup or discuss anything audio related

i will start off with my budget system....

12" sony xplod 350W rms 1200W Peak (dont give me shit it was free)
900W Rockford fosgate Punch 301x
500W yamaha YHT-195
NAD AV-711 no idea how many watts but it has alot


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## mlee49 (Apr 7, 2010)

Nice, do you use an AC/DC converter to run the amp?

Edit, also what sound card do you use?  With a setup like that I'd assume it's gonna need a better signal sent to it.


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## rockleez (Apr 7, 2010)

Woww nice, i wont embarrass myself and put mine here haha, only got a Z-4 system, nothing compared to those beasts


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## jasper1605 (Apr 7, 2010)

7.1 surround system (in my room, don't have anything for my Jeep)
Yamaha RX-V663 (95w X 7 channels)
Fronts: Paradigm cinema C90
Center: Paradigm cinema C110
Surrounds: Paradigm cinema ADP (awesome surrounds even if they're the cheapest from paradigm)
Subwoofer: Acoustech H100 150 RMS 500 peak (I used to have 2 in front corners but the neighbors didn't appreciate it much)

I'd load some pictures, but the room is a mess and I can't really put them in a good place since it's just an apartment rental lol


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## selway89 (Apr 7, 2010)

My setup is as follows:

2x Mission M30i HiFi speakers powered by Cyrus One HiFi amp (amp was and still is the dogs dangalies)
1x Home-made sub - Has a Mission 8" driver out of a £300 home cinema sub unit, powered by a Kenwood car amp.
All of this is driven off a Creative X-Fi ExtremeMusic card

Absolutely love it! Lossless audio through it and Blu-Ray look/sound amazing!


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## WOG-BOY (Apr 7, 2010)

mlee49 said:


> Nice, do you use an AC/DC converter to run the amp?
> 
> Edit, also what sound card do you use?  With a setup like that I'd assume it's gonna need a better signal sent to it.



i have a 600W PSU using the + and - from 1 of the 12V rails
i have onboard...... it has optical, coaxial and 6 3.5mm jacks able to do anything, when i get the money i will get a card.



jasper1605 said:


> 7.1 surround system (in my room, don't have anything for my Jeep)
> Yamaha RX-V663 (95w X 7 channels)
> Fronts: Paradigm cinema C90
> Center: Paradigm cinema C110
> ...



nice system.... totally Sh!t$ on mine



selway89 said:


> My setup is as follows:
> 
> 2x Mission M30i HiFi speakers powered by Cyrus One HiFi amp (amp was and still is the dogs dangalies)
> 1x Home-made sub - Has a Mission 8" driver out of a £300 home cinema sub unit, powered by a Kenwood car amp.
> ...



how the hell did u build ur own sub 
nice system btw


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## jasper1605 (Apr 7, 2010)

Yeah I love me my yamaha amp.  When I get a job with a decent income I'll be getting the full paradigm signature series.  It's my life dream


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## WOG-BOY (Apr 8, 2010)

haha yea yamahas are good, whats the paradigm signature series?? sounds cool. im saving up for that 7.2 sony system, it has like 3 amps so im gonna run like 6 different amps


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## jasper1605 (Apr 8, 2010)

signature's are their top of the line.  If I've added everything up right a 7.1 (and believe me the .1 is all a normal human 3 miles away from this sub would need) is just under 30 grand.  Just hop on over to paradigm and do some reading on their signatures.  Amazing speakers right there and their QC is one of the best in the speaker market.  
More on the sub though.  It's got an RMS of 4500 watts with a peak at 9000!!!
http://www.paradigm.com/en/reference/subwoofer_only-specification-30-4-5-17.paradigm
I think that could register some hits on the richter scales!


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## imperialreign (Apr 8, 2010)

Seeing as how I'm too lazy to describe my system (for the up-teenth time  ), I'll just link to a post:  http://forums.techpowerup.com/showpost.php?p=1353927&postcount=70



The pics I used were simply for representation purposes . . . as I still haven't gotten around to replacing my camera . . .


All I can say is that between vintage audio equipment and modern . . . vintage designs were constructed better, with really thought out enclosures, and tend to be decievingly powerful . . . they're also heavy as hell, each unit probably weighs somewhere close to 100lbs (never weighed them, though).

One day, though, I might finally work up the balls to replace the aging drivers, and install new ones into the enclosures . . . I just can't bear to mangle such vintage equipment . . . it'd break my heart . . .


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## Ejjman1 (Apr 8, 2010)

15" American Bass 1000w RMS


I have wondered how I'd go about hooking my 1000w amp up inside my house. I just kind of gave up and the sub is still bumping in my car.


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## imperialreign (Apr 8, 2010)

My car setup:

Pioneer FH-800BT

Front:
2 Pioneer 2.5" tweeters
2 Pioneer 4-way 4"x6"

Rear:

2 Pionner 4-way 6"x9" supported by a
Pionner 300W amp

I can easily drown out 90% of other vehicles on the road . . . without having to use a sub. 

I'm a believer in Pioneer's equipment (an extremelly under-stated brand, sadly), and properly matching components together.


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## SabreWulf69 (Apr 8, 2010)

My Setup:
ASUS Xonar Essence STX, using XMPlay with ASIO output @ Bit Depth and Sample Frequency of Source Material on Windows 7 Professional

Concord Premium Interconnects (1.0m Stereo Parallel Male to Male RCA Interconnect from sound card to amplifier, and 3.0m Stereo Parallel Male to Male RCA Interconnect from Amplifier Pre-Out to Subwoofer Input)

Cambridge Audio Azur 740A Integrated Stereo Amplifier (150W RMS/ch @ 4 Ohms, 100W RMS/ch @ 8 Ohms)

Technics SL-1700 Turntable

(To Yet Acquire) Cambridge Audio Azur 640P Phono Preamp

PSB SubSonic 5i Subwoofer (150W RMS Continuous, 225W Dynamic, 450W Dynamic Peak, 10" Driver)

Custom speakers (Australian floor standing Linear Design K-2500's, each tower with bituminous rubber paint on all internal enclosure walls, stuffed with Acrylic fiber, replacement 4" mid-range drivers (Jaycar one's with Magnesium-alloy diaphragms and Kapton voice coil former frames), replacement tweeters (Vifa Dual Concentric Super-Tweeters - http://www.tymphany.com/xt25tg30-04) and replacement 3-way crossovers (600hz and 3.5KHz X-Over points @ 12dB/octave), drivers sealed with closed cell polyurethane foam gaskets).

Speaker isolation via speaker risers.

Amplifier and subwoofer connected to a Clipsal "Orange Box" portable RCD power outlet.


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## sweeper (Apr 8, 2010)

crazy.... I just spent the money on a nice Sony receiver, 10" sub, surround sound speakers and it thumps the crap out of my apartment. Use either my DVD player or my PS3 for DVD's / Blue-Ray on my 40" LG 1080P LCD. As far as my PC, on-board sound plus Creative 5100 series. It sounds good enough for me for a PC system.


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## SabreWulf69 (Apr 8, 2010)

Speaker stuff

Standing wave absorption on the insides of my speaker enclosures, possible good material ideas -
1) Bituminous rubber paint aka body deadener painted on wood
2) Rockwool Batts stapled to all sides of speaker enclosure on top of body deadener (FIBERTEX ROCKWOOL PARTITION BATTS) --> http://www.bradfordinsulation.com.au/Products/Commerical/Acoustic-insulation/Rockwool-partition.aspx
3) Stockings/paper bags filled with activated carbon, attached around speaker drivers inside enclosure
(Acticarb GC1200) --> http://www.activatedcarbon.com.au/gc1200.htm
4) Rest filled lightly with Acrylic Fibre (Cheap pillow stuffing)


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## Wile E (Apr 8, 2010)

jasper1605 said:


> signature's are their top of the line.  If I've added everything up right a 7.1 (and believe me the .1 is all a normal human 3 miles away from this sub would need) is just under 30 grand.  Just hop on over to paradigm and do some reading on their signatures.  Amazing speakers right there and their QC is one of the best in the speaker market.
> More on the sub though.  It's got an RMS of 4500 watts with a peak at 9000!!!
> http://www.paradigm.com/en/reference/subwoofer_only-specification-30-4-5-17.paradigm
> I think that could register some hits on the richter scales!



With 6 10's, it had damn well better. Gotta love a Sub that you have to run a 220V line to run properly. lol.

I'd love to just have 6 Monitor 11's, a CC-390, and finish it off with an Ultra Cube 10"


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## SabreWulf69 (Apr 8, 2010)

Most things on this list will do me fine lol --> http://www.higherfi.com/spkrlist/speakerlist.htm

Also wouldn't mind a setup like this --> http://www.kipnis-studios.com/The_Kipnis_Studio_Standard/Kipnis_Home_Theaters.html

These --> http://egglestonworks.com/?page_id=303 in a 7 Channel Setup would be nice too. So much audio, so little time and money.


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## WOG-BOY (Apr 8, 2010)

jasper1605 said:


> signature's are their top of the line.  If I've added everything up right a 7.1 (and believe me the .1 is all a normal human 3 miles away from this sub would need) is just under 30 grand
> More on the sub though.  It's got an RMS of 4500 watts with a peak at 9000!!!
> http://www.paradigm.com/en/reference/subwoofer_only-specification-30-4-5-17.paradigm
> I think that could register some hits on the richter scales!



30K........... i wish i had that much money...... lol





Ejjman1 said:


> http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/82/l_5aa144210982425ba16fdf4bb465a174.jpg
> 
> 
> I have wondered how I'd go about hooking my 1000w amp up inside my house. I just kind of gave up and the sub is still bumping in my car.



haha i havent got a car so the house was my only choice.



SabreWulf69 said:


> My Setup:
> Onboard (for now, hoping for M-Audio 192 Audiophile Soundcard), using XMPlay with WASAPI exclusive mode plugin in Windows 7 Pro
> 
> Concord Premium Interconnect (1.5m 3.5mm TRS to 2x RCA)
> ...



damn did u do all that ur self???  i dont think the neighbours will be happy when u got all that turned up


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## SabreWulf69 (Apr 8, 2010)

Yeah, all done by myself over some period of time. An ever evolving work in progress :-D Been personally studying sound for ages, now doing a sound engineering course at TAFE (Certificate 3 in Music Industry (Technical Production)). Will gladly keep users informed of my progress if so desired  

My next immediate upgrade is the M-Audio Audiophile 192 Soundcard for the PC 
[EDIT: SOUNDCARD SEARCHING OVER WITH MY NEW ASUS XONAR ESSENCE STX :-D]

Current speaker plans are to add rockwool batts and activated carbon to my main speakers as well as upgrading the mid-ranges again to some Peerless HDS-Exclusive 5&1/4" Drivers (http://www.tymphany.com/files/products/pdf/831882.pdf), and then also upgrading the 2x 12" woofers in each tower to some SB Acoustics 12" drivers (http://www.sbacoustics.com/index.php/products/woofers/12-sb34nrx75-6/). After all that I will be weighing up impedances, and driver specifications to get myself some inductors and capacitors for complete re-design and replacement of the crossover, then finally getting some nice shiny new spade lug terminals.

Current amp plans atm are to acquire a Cambridge Audio Azur 640P Phono Preamp for my Turntable.

As I run into more things and more funds though I'm sure this list will expand lol.


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## WOG-BOY (Apr 8, 2010)

im coming to u for now on when i need help lol.  the M-Audio Audiophile 192 Soundcard for PC?? have u got a link for that? sounds interesting might buy 1 if any good. i need to buy a whole new speaker package and new sub.... 900W amp + 350W rms sub dont go good on high volume.


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## SabreWulf69 (Apr 8, 2010)

Soundcard is a studio grade (some would argue even beyond) card, primarily for music production and playback --> http://www.jrrshop.com/catalog/product_info.php?currency=AUD&products_id=4893  ,  http://www.m-audio.com/products/en_us/Audiophile192.html

I kinda dislike car audio, unless you take out the windows and remove the metal (which IS the car lol) it's always gonna sound off. Sure there is advanced equalization technologies like sound processing with Audessy Multi-EQ and similar DSP systems, but that stuff just doesn't do it for me in what is essentially a near field, cabin gain filled, highly reflective, poorly imaged, sound nightmare space lol As far as your sub and amp are concerned is better to overdrive than underdrive a speaker in power to a certain degree. Make sure amp is in RMS too and not PEAK power because my mate is driving 2x 150W RMS Rockford Punch subs, to deafening levels with his Alpine 666W (Actual) RMS V12 monoblock amplifier, and the subs have not died (yet lol). For those of you that insist that car audio is the shiznit may I direct your attention to this --> http://www.bowers-wilkins.com/display.aspx?infid=1733&terid=1735 probably one of the only systems I would find almost adequate in a car.


EDIT: Changed mind for soundcard to acquire, I now have the ASUS Xonar Essence STX


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## WOG-BOY (Apr 8, 2010)

tru i agree car audio isnt the best sounding but im only 15 and havent got a job yet so car audio is the cheapest for me.....    later on when i get the money i will proberbly start getting studio grade equipment without my mum knowing.... she hates the bass already from a shit sub cant imagen what a $2000 sub will make her do


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## imperialreign (Apr 8, 2010)

SabreWulf69 said:


> Soundcard is a studio grade (some would argue even beyond) card, primarily for music production and playback --> http://www.jrrshop.com/catalog/product_info.php?currency=AUD&products_id=4893  ,  http://www.m-audio.com/products/en_us/Audiophile192.html
> 
> I kinda dislike car audio, unless you take out the windows and remove the metal (which IS the car lol) it's always gonna sound off. Sure there is advanced equalization technologies like sound processing with Audessy Multi-EQ and similar DSP systems, but that stuff just doesn't do it for me in what is essentially a near field, cabin gain filled, highly reflective, poorly imaged, sound nightmare space lol As far as your sub and amp are concerned is better to overdrive than underdrive a speaker in power to a certain degree. Make sure amp is in RMS too and not PEAK power because my mate is driving 2x 150W RMS Rockford Punch subs, to deafening levels with his Alpine 666W (Actual) RMS V12 monoblock amplifier, and the subs have not died (yet lol). For those of you that insist that car audio is the shiznit may I direct your attention to this --> http://www.bowers-wilkins.com/display.aspx?infid=1733&terid=1735 probably one of the only systems I would find almost adequate in a car.




Completely agreed . . .

. . . and adding a subwoofer? 

My favorite "mistake" is seeing a subwoofer mounted with the driver facing towards the rear of the vehicle, or straight up.

As well, the majority of subwoofer choices people make are insanely oversized for the rest of the setup - even more-so considering the close proximities of each channel, and each channel to the "listener" (i.e. driver).

There's some tricks for making any speaker installation sound a lot better, but you can only improve things but so much.


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## Wile E (Apr 9, 2010)

imperialreign said:


> Completely agreed . . .
> 
> . . . and adding a subwoofer?
> 
> ...



Actually, the face of the driver is supposed to face the rear of the car. Optimally, you want to point it into the rear corner of your trunk. Sounds better, and is louder. Try it for yourself.


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## WOG-BOY (Apr 9, 2010)

Wile E said:


> Actually, the face of the driver is supposed to face the rear of the car. Optimally, you want to point it into the rear corner of your trunk. Sounds better, and is louder. Try it for yourself.



yea thats what i thought too, i thought the sound waves bounce off the back panels and go towards the front better then it facing just forward. in my house i have the sub and port facing the corner of the room and its soo much louder the it facing me


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## imperialreign (Apr 9, 2010)

Wile E said:


> Actually, the face of the driver is supposed to face the rear of the car. Optimally, you want to point it into the rear corner of your trunk. Sounds better, and is louder. Try it for yourself.



Ideally, yes . . . but a car's truck is not an ideal setup in the first place.  If you happen to have a trunk without loose panels, with good dampening material (most newer cars are equipped from the factory with such), a solid trunk latch that will prevent the trunk from rattling . . .

That's pretty much what it boils down to, facing the sub towards the rear causes excessive vibratory noise from the car's paneling . . . 

On the other hand, if you face it towards the front, as close to the rear seat as possible, you still get the "channeling" effect - provided via the rear shaping of the vehicle.  The waves that eminate from the rear of the driver will reflect back via the trunk, and those headed forwards will be channeled by the rear window.  As well, the rear seats will absorb a good amount of excessive vibration . . . one needn't worry to much about such low frequencies being "absorbed" by materials, the waves will still pass right through and be quite strong in such close quarters.

One aspect of all drivers many tend to overlook is that waves are traveling away from the driver in both directions.  Sure, those headed rear-ward aren't as strong as those being directed by the cone, but they're still there . . . and in an enclosed space (like a car trunk) they've got to go somewhere.  It also reduces the possibilities of noise cancellations (as loose panels, sheet metal, junk in the trunk, etc.) can start to produce their own vibrations as they're being vibrated by the waves.

One could help things out a bit with a proper EQ adjust and _properly_ adjusting the gain, but most seem to overlook such routes.  Ideally as well, matching the size of the subs to the system is a good move too.

I've never subscribed to the theory of over-loud subs.  They should compliment the audio, not drown it out or be excessively noticeable.


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## Wile E (Apr 9, 2010)

imperialreign said:


> Ideally, yes . . . but a car's truck is not an ideal setup in the first place.  If you happen to have a trunk without loose panels, with good dampening material (most newer cars are equipped from the factory with such), a solid trunk latch that will prevent the trunk from rattling . . .
> 
> That's pretty much what it boils down to, facing the sub towards the rear causes excessive vibratory noise from the car's paneling . . .
> 
> ...


Actually, facing it frontwards causes more rattles. You really do have this completely backwards Imperial. More sound comes from the back of the cone, not the front.

I wasn't arguing any other point, btw. I don't believe in 1000w of sub amp on a factory head unit.


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## TIGR (Apr 9, 2010)

Was running Infinity Kappas all around with a Basslink in my Sunfire ... then I tore the entire thing apart to begin [extensive] sound deadening and decided I'm going to keep the stereo system out entirely, build a car PC, and use a headphone splitter/amp out to multiple earbuds with good sound isolation. Had planned on a setup with the Kappas along with dual Resonant Engineering XXX SE 12" subs, but I want to hear my music [accurately] more than I want the guy next to me to hear it, and more than I want to _feel_ it. Note that one can't legally listen to earbuds while driving and I am not claiming I do or would  though I would argue that blasting a high-end stereo is no less distracting than listening to music in good sound-isolating earbuds. With neither are you going to hear the police siren behind you if you're being an idiot. 

Anyway, with earbuds: lower cost, more accurate sound, better noise isolation, lower power draw, much less space taken up, lower weight (which is good considering the weight of the sound deadening I'm adding), etc. But it's also not the way most people want to listen to music in the car, particularly with passengers. This way though, others can listen to music while I enjoy silence.


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## WOG-BOY (Apr 9, 2010)

i got no car so i dont have to worry about rattling 

@imperialreign it also depends on the person... some ppl like crazy amounts of rattling just to show off to there friends and others like to look at the front of the sub insted if having it facing the seats

for me its half half i like to look at the sub but dont like rattling


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## TIGR (Apr 9, 2010)

If there is rattling in my car, I consider there to be insufficient sound dampening.


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## BazookaJoe (Apr 9, 2010)

Wile E said:


> Actually, the face of the driver is supposed to face the rear of the car...



++ AGREE  - My Car Box sounds 10X better facing backwards.


My old setup from quite some time ago :


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## WOG-BOY (Apr 9, 2010)

BazookaJoe said:


> ++ AGREE  - My Car Box sounds 10X better facing backwards.
> 
> 
> My old setup from quite some time ago :
> ...



did u ever have problems with blowing up PSU's with ur amp? i have gone through like 4 PSU's rated above the amp's needs
maybe the PSU needs more amperage?


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## Wile E (Apr 9, 2010)

WOG-BOY said:


> did u ever have problems with blowing up PSU's with ur amp? i have gone through like 4 PSU's rated above the amp's needs
> maybe the PSU needs more amperage?



A PC PSU? Yeah, it would need a lot of overhead. It isn't designed to handle the severe peaks amps can draw. You could try wiring in a cap to take some load off of it.


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## WOG-BOY (Apr 9, 2010)

@Wile E  yea i got 1 now that has lasted the longest its 1200W 25A and has 3 fans in it and stay pretty cool. but yea i get masive voltage drops from like 12.6 to 9.4 and then the amp shuts down and starts up again. what size cap would i need and how much would 1 cost (AUD)?


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## Wile E (Apr 9, 2010)

I'd say 1/2 farad would be more than enough. A top brand 1/2 Farad with a digital readout goes for $50 US, or around $30 for non-digital. Not sure what that would be like in AUD tho.


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## BazookaJoe (Apr 9, 2010)

Nope - I put a motorbike / car battery between the amp and the PSU as a form of super-capacitor


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## Wile E (Apr 9, 2010)

BazookaJoe said:


> Nope - I put a motorbike / car battery between the amp and the PSU as a form of super-capacitor



Yeah, but does it not lose it's charge over time?


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## BazookaJoe (Apr 9, 2010)

Nope - Just leave the PSU running 24/7 - It chardes when yer not thumping, and when you need to pull big bass, it steps in when the PSU cant take the load. 

Give me a few minutes to post a picture of my own new invention that I'm using now days that replaces the PC-PSU altogether, uses less power and runs silently (I HATE fan noise).


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## WOG-BOY (Apr 9, 2010)

BazookaJoe said:


> Nope - Just leave the PSU running 24/7 - It chardes when yer not thumping, and when you need to pull big bass, it steps in when the PSU cant take the load.



wouldent the battery overcharge or get hot at night when not using it?


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## SabreWulf69 (Apr 9, 2010)

Using battery as a capacitor can be very dangerous, as well as the fact of having a vehicle battery in your bedroom, as the amperage is enough to weld a spanner across the terminals. Low frequency wavelengths are longer and slower which is why the bass travels further and sounds louder bouncing of the back of your car boot. As far as car audio is concerned (deadening aside) technical accuracy of bass would be alot better having the sub face towards you, or at least having a more direct, accurate and sound friendly route of the subwoofer's bass as in the Bowers & Wilkins system going toward the front.


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## Wile E (Apr 9, 2010)

SabreWulf69 said:


> Using battery as a capacitor can be very dangerous, as well as the fact of having a vehicle battery in your bedroom, as the amperage is enough to weld a spanner across the terminals. Low frequency wavelengths are longer and slower which is why the bass travels further and sounds louder bouncing of the back of your car boot. As far as car audio is concerned (deadening aside) technical accuracy of bass would be alot better having the sub face towards you, or at least having a more direct, accurate and sound friendly route of the subwoofer's bass as in the Bowers & Wilkins system going toward the front.



Except in the context of a car trunk, where true fidelity is pretty much non-existent to begin with. 

In an open back car, it does sound better, but not as loud.

(Lets face it, car audio and true fidelity are an exercise in futility and frustration. lol)


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## BazookaJoe (Apr 9, 2010)

SabreWulf69 said:


> Using battery as a capacitor can be very dangerous, as well as the fact of having a vehicle battery in your bedroom, as the amperage is enough to weld a spanner across the terminals. Low frequency wavelengths are longer and slower which is why the bass travels further and sounds louder bouncing of the back of your car boot. As far as car audio is concerned (deadening aside) technical accuracy of bass would be alot better having the sub face towards you, or at least having a more direct, accurate and sound friendly route of the subwoofer's bass as in the Bowers & Wilkins system going toward the front.



I've been using car batteries for over 12 years as well as just about everyone I know - they are perfectly harmless as long as you yourself have a little common sense.

Just like ANY other electrical component / device on earth... 

ANYTHING can be dangerous if handled by an idiot  heck even a spoon can be lethal if you try and swallow it, but use it as intended, and you'll be just fine.


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## BazookaJoe (Apr 9, 2010)

FFK - gotta go to work - Will post some more pics & PSU's when I get back later


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## WOG-BOY (Apr 9, 2010)

SabreWulf69 said:


> as the amperage is enough to weld a spanner across the terminals.



what do u mean by that?


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## imperialreign (Apr 9, 2010)

Wile E said:


> Actually, facing it frontwards causes more rattles. You really do have this completely backwards Imperial. More sound comes from the back of the cone, not the front.



I understand what you're trying to say, but applied theory is telling me otherwise . . . 

If nothing else, there's a ton of other variables that I don't think either of us were taking into consideration . . . design of the enclosure, materials used for the enclosure, materials used for any trunk lining, thickness of the car's sheet metal panels, whether the car's body is steel or plastic cladded . . .

. . . and a big variable - the shape and design of the rear of the car.  That will have the biggest impact on how the audio is channeled inside the vehicle.  A sub facing backwards might sound better in car _x_, but might sound better facing forwards in car _y_.



> (Lets face it, car audio and true fidelity are an exercise in futility and frustration. lol)




No argument from me here


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## BazookaJoe (Apr 9, 2010)

WOG-BOY said:


> what do u mean by that?



Well - if you short out the terminals of a fully charged car battery it will cause the release of an insane amount of current - usually sufficient to boil the lead contacts of the battery almost instantly, causing a reaction that could very easily be mistaken for an explosion, and potentially be very dangerous.

The idea is however to already understand the basic principals of NOT blowing yourself up BEFORE you work with these sorts of things.

I do occasionally make the mistake of assuming that since this is a technical forum, the average person here DOES have some actual electrical understanding in this regard, one tends to forget that even girls can use the internet now... Who knows who's reading forums these days


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## BazookaJoe (Apr 9, 2010)

Another set I built for a buddy a while ago : 

EDIT : The flames are actually soft squishy foam, partially for Decor, and partially to help reduce noise on the box by acting as dampers - this was my first semi-serious attempt at a system, and worked out pretty damn well - Sounds GREAT.














Also powered by a Car Battery, using a little power supply I make myself, a 1A 12V (True 1A - non stop, not 1A Peak) charger basically, with the battery "In-Line" with the amp.

During normal daily usage at volumes the rest of the house can actually tolerate, it runs off the power supply itself, and when you call for extra BOOM, then it uses the battery.

YES, it wont be able to run forever, but if I tried to make enough noise to kill the battery, I'd probably get arrested for public disturbance, and the Speaker set pictured above has been used for house parties before and managed to run all night at party suitable volumes with no hassle.

This Power Supply pictured has been running 24/7 for almost 8 years now (As well as that battery) and still works just fine. 

I DO think the battery could use replacing by now, but it still works  - so why bother.


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## WOG-BOY (Apr 10, 2010)

BazookaJoe said:


> Another set I built for a buddy a while ago :
> 
> EDIT : The flames are actually soft squishy foam, partially for Decor, and partially to help reduce noise on the box by acting as dampers - this was my first semi-serious attempt at a system, and worked out pretty damn well - Sounds GREAT.
> 
> ...



looks awsome!!!!

i would run a battery if i was alowed.... PSU's run fine for me atm


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## SabreWulf69 (Apr 11, 2010)

Yay, back to TAFE tomorrow, just had a week off, going for an assessment rigging up some decent sized mixers to a PA amp with speakers. Should be fun, I get to play with some nice Crown amps, they hammer and the quality is surprisingly unbelievably good


----------



## WOG-BOY (Apr 11, 2010)

SabreWulf69 said:


> Yay, back to TAFE tomorrow, just had a week off, going for an assessment rigging up some decent sized mixers to a PA amp with speakers. Should be fun, I get to play with some nice Crown amps, they hammer and the quality is surprisingly unbelievably good



haha lucky

what do think of the Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium PCIe Fatal1ty Pro Series?

http://www.austin.net.au/ProductList/ProductDetail/tabid/104/ProductCode/AUDSCCR0886-4/Default.aspx

i just need something better then onboard and has 4 3.5mm aux-out and mic-in


----------



## SabreWulf69 (Apr 11, 2010)

Seems alright I guess, has some l33t xram on it too lol Will definitely be better than onboard, I've heard the Auzentech's are a hell of a lot better though for your gaming cards.


----------



## Wile E (Apr 11, 2010)

WOG-BOY said:


> haha lucky
> 
> what do think of the Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium PCIe Fatal1ty Pro Series?
> 
> ...



Get an Auzentech X-Fi Forte or X-Fi Bravura instead.


----------



## WOG-BOY (Apr 11, 2010)

i would get 1 of thoes 2 but they dont sell them at my local computer shop and buying online is not an option

http://www.austin.net.au/ProductLis.../PageNo/1/Default.aspx?SubCategory=Sound+Card 

these are the cards available that i can get. which 1 would be the best option?


----------



## Wile E (Apr 12, 2010)

If you can spend a little more, an Asus Xonar D2X. If you can spend a lot more, an Asus HDAV1.3 Deluxe.

If that's as high as you can go, the Titanium will do just fine tho.

Bummer that buying online is not an option tho, as those Auzentech cards are about the best value for the money.


----------



## WOG-BOY (Apr 12, 2010)

Wile E said:


> If you can spend a little more, an Asus Xonar D2X. If you can spend a lot more, an Asus HDAV1.3 Deluxe.
> 
> If that's as high as you can go, the Titanium will do just fine tho.
> 
> Bummer that buying online is not an option tho, as those Auzentech cards are about the best value for the money.




yea the titanium is probably as high as i would pay
thanks anyway


----------



## SabreWulf69 (Apr 12, 2010)

http://www.ple.com.au/?p=snapshot&inventory_id=674 --> AUZENTECH X-FI PRELUDE 7.1 [$265.00]
http://www.ple.com.au/?p=snapshot&inventory_id=172 --> AUZENTECH X-PLOSION 7.1 CINEMA [$139.00]


----------



## Wile E (Apr 12, 2010)

SabreWulf69 said:


> http://www.ple.com.au/?p=snapshot&inventory_id=674 --> AUZENTECH X-FI PRELUDE 7.1 [$265.00]
> http://www.ple.com.au/?p=snapshot&inventory_id=172 --> AUZENTECH X-PLOSION 7.1 CINEMA [$139.00]



It seemed to me he was looking at PCIe cards. I could be wrong tho.


----------



## WOG-BOY (Apr 12, 2010)

SabreWulf69 said:


> http://www.ple.com.au/?p=snapshot&inventory_id=674 --> AUZENTECH X-FI PRELUDE 7.1 [$265.00]
> http://www.ple.com.au/?p=snapshot&inventory_id=172 --> AUZENTECH X-PLOSION 7.1 CINEMA [$139.00]



ohhhh i forgot about ple..... lol
thanks for the links
might have a look at it 2moro


----------



## SabreWulf69 (Apr 12, 2010)

np man heehee


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## WOG-BOY (Apr 12, 2010)

Wile E said:


> It seemed to me he was looking at PCIe cards. I could be wrong tho.



im good with either pci or pcie


----------



## Wile E (Apr 12, 2010)

Here's my sound card: http://www.ple.com.au/?p=snapshot&inventory_id=267

Great card.


----------



## WOG-BOY (Apr 13, 2010)

Wile E said:


> Here's my sound card: http://www.ple.com.au/?p=snapshot&inventory_id=267
> 
> Great card.


I'm thinking of getting that 1, what are the main feature that makes it different to other cards?
i have right now 3 aux plugs going out to my 3 amps will i still be able to do that? looks like it only has 1 3.5mm and a coaxial i need at least 3x 3.5mm


----------



## SabreWulf69 (Apr 13, 2010)

http://www.auzentech.com/site/products/x-fi_forte.php has all the connections on a break-out connector like the M-Audio card I want


----------



## Wile E (Apr 14, 2010)

WOG-BOY said:


> I'm thinking of getting that 1, what are the main feature that makes it different to other cards?
> i have right now 3 aux plugs going out to my 3 amps will i still be able to do that? looks like it only has 1 3.5mm and a coaxial i need at least 3x 3.5mm



Like Sabre said, it has a breakout connector for your 3.5 jacks. They are nice and clearly labled too. It also has a built in headphone amp, to drive high quality cans if you have them.

Other than that, it's just built with better components all the way around than the Creative built cards.


----------



## WOG-BOY (Apr 14, 2010)

Wile E said:


> Like Sabre said, it has a breakout connector for your 3.5 jacks. They are nice and clearly labled too. It also has a built in headphone amp, to drive high quality cans if you have them.
> 
> Other than that, it's just built with better components all the way around than the Creative built cards.



ahh nice
so i should get more volume from my beats by dr. dre earphones


----------



## SabreWulf69 (Apr 14, 2010)

That you should my friend, dedicated stuff is always better at specifics.


----------



## WOG-BOY (Apr 20, 2010)

im looking for a new subwoofer to replace my Xplod. something under 400 and not too hard to get. i have seen the rockford fosgate P3 and looks alright for the price just wondering if there is anything else around 500W rms?


----------



## SabreWulf69 (Apr 20, 2010)

Rockford would be the way to go, other wise try Vifa subs, they may fit the bill and can be sourced through Jaycar  I highly dislike Sony, Alpine, Teac, and other "Red Dot" brand subs myself, but that's just my opinion.


----------



## HookeyStreet (Apr 20, 2010)

I use a Sony 5.1 DD/DTS reciever with the original speakers/active sub that came with it (I dont remember the model number and cant look because Im at work lol).

Its getting fairly old now (Ive had it 6 years at least), but it still sounds great for gaming and movies (XBOX360, PS3 & SKY+ HD).

Im actually on the look out for a new 5.1/7.1 setup (for my living room) with HDMI inputs/output.  So if anyone has any ideas please let me know (UK stores only)


----------



## WOG-BOY (Apr 20, 2010)

HookeyStreet said:


> I use a Sony 5.1 DD/DTS reciever with the original speakers/active sub that came with it (I dont remember the model number and cant look because Im at work lol).
> 
> Its getting fairly old now (Ive had it 6 years at least), but it still sounds great for gaming and movies (XBOX360, PS3 & SKY+ HD).
> 
> Im actually on the look out for a new 5.1/7.1 setup (for my living room) with HDMI inputs/output.  So if anyone has any ideas please let me know (UK stores only)




if you dont belive in overkill this is for you http://www.sony.com.au/product/ht-ddw8500 
im trying to save up for it but the 7.2 version not sure where u can get it in the UK tho.

you can also get a custom hi-fi system, like buy the amp, speakers and sub all separate but i cant help u on that, not sure how good things are.


----------



## SabreWulf69 (Apr 20, 2010)

My Realistic Dream System -



Atlantic Technology THX Ultra 2 Certified Fully Sealed Enclosure 8200e 5 Channel Speaker Set - 

http://www.atlantictechnology.com/default.asp?NodeId=127

ELAC SUB 2080D Subwoofer - http://www.elac.com/en/products/subwoofer/show.php?sub2080d

Rotel RSP-1570 Pre-Amplifier / Surround Processor - http://www.rotel.com/UK/products/ProductDetails.htm?Id=474

Rotel RMB-1575 5-channel Power Amplifier - http://www.rotel.com/UK/Products/ProductDetails.htm?id=475

Linn Sondek Turntable with Rega RB301 Arm and Shure M97xE Diamond Needle - 

http://www.linn.co.uk/music_systems_sondek_LP12# , http://www.rega.co.uk/html/tonearm.htm , 

http://www.shure.com/ProAudio/Products/DJPhonoCartridgesAndNeedles/us_pro_M97xE_content

Cambridge Audio 640P Phono Pre-Amp (MM & MC Drive) - http://www.cambridgeaudio.com/specifications.php?PID=29&Title=Specifications

Equi-Tech Son-of-Q SR. E Balanced Power Conditioner - http://www.equitech.com/products/rack/sonofqav.html

Concord Premium Interconnects - http://www.essentialaudio.com.au/index1.html (also available from Jaycar)


Estimated value in AUD - between $45,000 - $50,000


----------



## SabreWulf69 (Apr 20, 2010)

?? Much drool-age or what! ??


----------



## WOG-BOY (Apr 20, 2010)

SabreWulf69 said:


> ?? Much drool-age or what! ??



haha yepp 
man thoes amps looks very nice wouldent mid them either. if i had the money......... 

right now, befor i start upgrading, i need to find myself a job...


----------



## niko084 (Apr 20, 2010)

WOG-BOY said:


> 12" sony xplod 350W rms 1200W Peak (dont give me shit it was free)
> 900W Rockford fosgate Punch 301x
> 500W yamaha YHT-195
> NAD AV-711 no idea how many watts but it has alot



Your 301x is a 300watt amp *900 peak yea right, maybe at 19v @ 1khz for .1ms*

The AV-711 is 40 watts per channel.

TBH- Peak isn't valid in the least and even RMS is a real crappy way to rate power output, to get a real idea you need a series of graphs.

Currently I'm running a Yamaha M-60 main, M-30 effects, C-60 pre, DSP-100U DSP, JBL SVA-1600 mains, JBL HLS 620 and JBL HLS 610 effects, 2 Polk PSW110 10" subs, and a JBL PSW-1200 12" sub.


----------



## HookeyStreet (Apr 20, 2010)

WOG-BOY said:


> if you dont belive in overkill this is for you http://www.sony.com.au/product/ht-ddw8500
> im trying to save up for it but the 7.2 version not sure where u can get it in the UK tho.
> 
> you can also get a custom hi-fi system, like buy the amp, speakers and sub all separate but i cant help u on that, not sure how good things are.



WOW!!!!!



SabreWulf69 said:


> My Realistic Dream System -
> 
> 
> 
> ...



and HOLY SHIT!


----------



## niko084 (Apr 20, 2010)

I prefer McIntosh, VMPS, Avalon and JBL myself 

I desperately want a set of VMPS Lowboys, I have a set of adcom amps sitting waiting.


----------



## Wile E (Apr 21, 2010)

niko084 said:


> I prefer* McIntosh*, VMPS, Avalon and JBL myself
> 
> I desperately want a set of VMPS Lowboys, I have a set of adcom amps sitting waiting.



The only REAL production home amp maker left out there. You have to go boutique to get any better.


----------



## SabreWulf69 (Apr 21, 2010)

I'd love some Classe' or McIntosh amps personally, but alas money constraints. Hmm maybe time to list a completely unrealistic dream system perhaps heehee :-D


----------



## SabreWulf69 (Apr 21, 2010)

Oh I pretty much already have heh -



SabreWulf69 said:


> Most things on this list will do me fine lol --> http://www.higherfi.com/spkrlist/speakerlist.htm
> 
> Also wouldn't mind a setup like this --> http://www.kipnis-studios.com/The_Kipnis_Studio_Standard/Kipnis_Home_Theaters.html
> 
> These --> http://egglestonworks.com/?page_id=303 in a 7 Channel Setup would be nice too. So much audio, so little time and money.


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## WOG-BOY (Apr 21, 2010)

niko084 said:


> Your 301x is a 300watt amp *900 peak yea right, maybe at 19v @ 1khz for .1ms*
> 
> The AV-711 is 40 watts per channel.
> 
> ...



well on the amp itself it says 900W not on a sticker.... the amp. maybe it is 300W rms but i dont care i got it for free and it has enough power to put cracks in my walls (old house) so im happy...


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## rizla1 (Apr 21, 2010)

does it really matter as long as it sounds good. [and is free]

i got a 25watt dell powered sub wired it up to some crappy pc speakers altough crappy its self im happy .

anyone got and idea for me ? i want to add on a few cheap speakers and maybe a 100 watt amp . im not rich like you guys . just something in £50 - £60 range maybe some hifi speakers? i no very little about audio. thanks


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## WOG-BOY (Apr 21, 2010)

rizla1 said:


> does it really matter as long as it sounds good. [and is free]
> 
> i got a 25watt dell powered sub wired it up to some crappy pc speakers altough crappy its self im happy .
> 
> anyone got and idea for me ? i want to add on a few cheap speakers and maybe a 100 watt amp . im not rich like you guys . just something in £50 - £60 range maybe some hifi speakers? i no very little about audio. thanks



hahaha yea true  im not rich either most of the stuff i got for free and sounds fukn good for me and most others.

i dont know how much £60 in AUD but if i was you i would save up for a new receiver and buy some alright bookshelf speakers and then later on you can add a subwoofer, side and center if you want. my 3 way pioneer front speakers have pretty nice bass for what they are.


Thats what i would do. ask niko084 he sounds smart


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## SabreWulf69 (Apr 22, 2010)

Yeah some basic pioneer home theater can be really cost efficient. My brother just got himself a low-cost system full 5.1 system with receiver for around AUD $700 and I must say I did not know you could get something like that for the price he paid.


----------



## WOG-BOY (Apr 23, 2010)

yea i only paid AUD $500 for my yamaha 5.1 ( only use the center and rear speakers on it now) and it souds really clear and loud for the price


----------



## SabreWulf69 (Apr 23, 2010)

Sweet good amps for home theaters the Yammy's are, sounds like you got a bargain


----------



## WOG-BOY (Apr 23, 2010)

haha yea..... 
i have been saving up for a new subwoofer but then i saw the cerwin vega xls-15 :O 
what do you guys think of it? and how many watts will i need to power 2? i was thinking a 1000W denon or something like that. not too expensive just something with enough power


----------



## SabreWulf69 (Apr 24, 2010)

1000W Denon? they may explode lol considering they have only a 400W PEAK power rating lol and for a 1000W Denon, it would be uber expensive if they even exist, so I am going to assume you meant a 100W RMS /channel amp. When I first saw them I thought they were PA speakers and I was like, oh OK but then I read on. From the sounds of it, yeah a 100W Denon will be a nice amp to drive them, whether your teaming them with an actual amp or just a 100W receiver they at least look like they will crank.


----------



## WOG-BOY (Apr 24, 2010)

so i need atleast 100W rms each channel? if i need that much my yamaha would do, its 100w per channel but not sure if thats rms or peak. (proberbly peak) and if i get the lower ohm version on the cerwin vega's i can use my NAD, manula says lower the ohm the higher Watts it will put out :S


----------



## SabreWulf69 (Apr 24, 2010)

What was the model of your Yammy? Yeah on some amps you can run at some lower ohms just keep an eye or a handle on amp temps. My Cambridge goes to 4 Ohms so your NAD should be able to run them no probs as long as the Cerwin's are definitely at 4 Ohms and not lower for a start and if you wanna run them off the Yammy make sure their suitably matched impedance wise to the Yammy too.


----------



## WOG-BOY (Apr 24, 2010)

Yamaha HTR-6130, i might just put some fans near the NAD amp and run it off that. right after i posted that last post i went to a hi-fi shop in the city to replace my broken tour beats by dr dre with the studio beats by dr dre (coming thursday, tested there demo pair and soundds F@KIN AWSOME, cant wait to get them) and had a look at a few rotel and denon amps. i would get 1 but at the price of the cerwin vega's theres no way i could afford 1. the Beats cost enough as it is....


----------



## SabreWulf69 (Apr 24, 2010)

Yeah maybe if your into ripping your stuff apart then try rig sum DC 240V fans for the NAD amp into it.


----------



## WOG-BOY (Apr 24, 2010)

SabreWulf69 said:


> Yeah maybe if your into ripping your stuff apart then try rig sum DC 240V fans for the NAD amp into it.



yea i was thinking that puting 2x80mm fans ontop of the heatsink. but i need to find a + - that running 12V (using computer fans)


----------



## SabreWulf69 (Apr 24, 2010)

Ah ok yeah try that for the PC fans should be good.


----------



## xBruce88x (Apr 24, 2010)

i dont have anything tooo fancy, but...

Desktop/Entertainment Center
Philips MC 500 Micro Stereo System or w/e. I have my tv, gameconsoles, and pc hooked up to it







Specs:
USB port connection for digital music files
100 watts per channel speakers
5-disc CD changer plays CDs, CD-Rs, CD-RWs
Built-in digital equalizer settings

Headphones
Tritton AX51 (older model) but i don't use em much since the cord wont straighten out






96 Hyundai Elantra:
2x 5 1/2in stock
2x 6x9 Dual Illuminites 150watt
Aiwa (or however it's spelled) 45x4 head unit with cd player in line in jack

81 D-150:
Pioneer head unit 45w x4 cd player
2x 6x9 150watt max illuminites/DUAL
2x 5 1/2in Sony Xplode 225watt max
800watt Sony Xplode 12in (older round red ones)
760watt pioneer amp
2Farad Cap















^ sorry just had to post it

and the others hehehe


----------



## niko084 (Apr 24, 2010)

WOG-BOY said:


> well on the amp itself it says 900W not on a sticker.... the amp. maybe it is 300W rms but i dont care i got it for free and it has enough power to put cracks in my walls (old house) so im happy...



Oh nothing against the amp, Rockford still makes decent stuff all considered!
And very solid built sub amps.

All these companies just turned to giving peak power ratings dunno why... 

Oh the other note, ya money constraints, tis why I still use solid state equipment, sadly it's cleaner and more powerful than most of the current solid state hifi equipment, and needless to say it cost less than 15% of what the new stuff costs, so what I replace a few capacitors 

I'm putting Focal speakers and Image Dynamics subs into my 330ci, probably going to use a Nakamichi deck, I have a few MBQuart amps sitting still I might use. Still sitting stock HK for now, which really isn't that bad for a stock system.


----------



## WOG-BOY (Apr 25, 2010)

xBruce88x said:


> i dont have anything tooo fancy, but...
> 
> Desktop/Entertainment Center
> Philips MC 500 Micro Stereo System or w/e. I have my tv, gameconsoles, and pc hooked up to it
> ...



thanks for sharing 
nice setup in the truck btw 



niko084 said:


> Oh nothing against the amp, Rockford still makes decent stuff all considered!
> And very solid built sub amps.
> 
> All these companies just turned to giving peak power ratings dunno why...
> ...



tru i wish there was an eayser way to tell which amp is better without actually testing it or listning to the fake specs from audio companies. half the new amps cant even hit the peak power anyway without overheating.... well according mt my friends amps


----------



## xBruce88x (Apr 25, 2010)

i recently grabbed an mtx amp for $30 for my brother and it was actually rated by RMS. I went on their site and found the little 400watter could push some of their Jackhammer line.

and for the philips sound system, i got all my consoles connected to a gamestop switcher, which goes to the tv. the tv then has an audio out going to the system. currently i use my pc on the usb connector, but its a basic ac97 audio thing, i plan on getting one of those mini-stereo to rca cables and adding it in with the switch so i still get the quality of my on-board ALC888 which is better than the one built in the stereo. 

hehe yea i found all of that more than sufficient for my truck WOG-BOY. In my town the wafflehouse late at night seems to be the gathering place for bassheads... i was in Mcdonald's (next door) and decided to crank mine up. they all turned theirs off after hearing mine... even though they had 2000watt+ systems. Why? b/c theirs all sounded like diesel trucks idleing... all rattle. I took the time to adjust my audio setting and position the boxes in a way to minimize all the rattle (when i installed the system) so you could actually hear the bass and the rest of the songs as well lol. although i'll admit, the truck is all metal so there's still some rattle

and Niko i agree, Rockford still rocks lol.  btw those lightning audio speakers at wallyworld are actually a division of Rockford


----------



## WOG-BOY (Apr 25, 2010)

xBruce88x said:


> i recently grabbed an mtx amp for $30 for my brother and it was actually rated by RMS. I went on their site and found the little 400watter could push some of their Jackhammer line.
> 
> and for the philips sound system, i got all my consoles connected to a gamestop switcher, which goes to the tv. the tv then has an audio out going to the system. currently i use my pc on the usb connector, but its a basic ac97 audio thing, i plan on getting one of those mini-stereo to rca cables and adding it in with the switch so i still get the quality of my on-board ALC888 which is better than the one built in the stereo.
> 
> ...



haha yea bass always souds good in small spaces, acts like a big subwoofer box  
that gamestop switcher.... what connections are on it and are they good quality? i want 1 with audio RCA's but a good quality 1 with like gold plating. havent found any yet
i havent heard much about MTX so i didnt know about the RMS rating.


----------



## xBruce88x (Apr 25, 2010)

its not gold plating or anything, but it works well enough for me... played Mass Effect 1 and 2 on my xbox360 with it and audio sounded great. I also stream my movies to my xbox360 from my pc and no audio problems.

It has hookups for,
Red and White Audio
Yellow RCA video, S-Video, RGB RCA
LAN

edit:






the last group where i have teh white in the yellow is my nes... its only mono sound so i just used the white for vid.






Damn pollen is everywhere, no AC so i have to use a window-fan and the pollen is real bad right now

the lan ports aren't used all the time, in other words only one lan device will work at a time, its a manual switch, no power required.

and it is HD, with RGB RCA

and a side note... wallyworld = Wal-Mart lol

edit: the systems currently hooked up






and the nes still works, i replaced the white xbox with the above elite, and the Gamecube is at a friend's house


----------



## WOG-BOY (Apr 25, 2010)

xBruce88x said:


> its not gold plating or anything, but it works well enough for me... played Mass Effect 1 and 2 on my xbox360 with it and audio sounded great. I also stream my movies to my xbox360 from my pc and no audio problems.
> 
> It has hookups for,
> Red and White Audio
> ...



wow its big with alot of connections  just what i like... do u know where i could get 1 from and how much?


----------



## xBruce88x (Apr 25, 2010)

last i saw one used for like $12 at gamestop or something, i'll do a google for your town and edit/post back results, btw check out my edit. BTW you may know them as EB Games


----------



## WOG-BOY (Apr 25, 2010)

ok thanks
Sh!t the nes still works :O good job on keeping it working lol
haha nice face on the ps2


----------



## xBruce88x (Apr 25, 2010)

i did a search and couldn't find it.. one of those go in the store and see type things... if they have one it'll be used. I saw about 10 EB games locations when i did the store locator for Perth, Aust. I've had the thing for about 4 years so its hard to find new now.

and about the face, i figured i'd make some use of the pollen lol


----------



## WOG-BOY (Apr 25, 2010)

ok thanks


----------



## xBruce88x (Apr 25, 2010)

no prob, good luck finding one if you go out looking


----------



## SabreWulf69 (Apr 26, 2010)

I'm getting a soundcard after much extensive research and debate with myself and this is what I come up with the ASUS Xonar Essence STX Soundcard, I am actually having trouble finding anything bad about it lol here if ya can be bothered please read some of the following reviews or opinions from many a respected source audio and computer industry wise -->


http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=766494
http://www.guru3d.com/article/asus-xonar-essence-stx-review/
http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/asus_xonar_essence_stx/
http://www.extremetech.com/article2/0,2845,2339333,00.asp
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/multimedia/display/asus-xonar-essence-stx.html
http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/audio/asus_xonar_essence_stx_-_pci-e_audiophile_soundcard/8
http://www.maximumpc.com/article/reviews/asus_xonar_essence_stx
http://www.stereophile.com/computeraudio/asus_xonar_essence_ststx_soundcards/
http://www.avforums.com/forums/soun...52206-asus-xonar-essence-stx-impressions.html

Apparently for my purpose (Playback using 2-Channel Audio + Analog out to my new high quality amp and speakers) it hands down beats the like of the Creative cards, themselves and the high end Creative cards by Auzentech, the M-Audio Audiophile 192 Card, ESI Juli@, any onboard by absolute miles, and at least on par if not better than some High-End music production cards from the likes of RME and LYNX.

Just a handful of reviews and opinions but yeah, I'm getting it for $240.72 AUD delivered and insured from PC Case Gear, what do you think?


----------



## SabreWulf69 (Apr 27, 2010)

Anyone?


----------



## Wile E (Apr 27, 2010)

I thought about it, but only Stereo. No possibility to upgrade to a surround setup. I found the Auzentech X-Fi Forte to have nearly the same headphone performance, just as good stereo performance if you choose to upgrade the opamps, less cpu usage, but still offers surround ability.

I think the Forte is currently the best buy on the market in cost to benefit.


----------



## WOG-BOY (Apr 27, 2010)

Wile E said:


> I thought about it, but only Stereo. No possibility to upgrade to a surround setup. I found the Auzentech X-Fi Forte to have nearly the same headphone performance, just as good stereo performance if you choose to upgrade the opamps, less cpu usage, but still offers surround ability.
> 
> I think the Forte is currently the best buy on the market in cost to benefit.



i was thinking the Forte too, from the reviews i have seen, but im not sure now.... that asus card does look nice and ur right i cant find anything wrong with it either. only 1 question tho...... as i said b4 i need two front speaker 3.5mm ports. will that do it? my onboard ports can be converted to in or out, front or back with the realtek program but the quality is bad...

@SabreWulf69 nice find anyway shoud be good


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## SabreWulf69 (Apr 27, 2010)

Yeah suits my new going into a high quality analog, 2 channel music setup nicely. Can be used for surround cos I assume it can pass PCM/AC3/DD through the digital output/s (SP/DIF+TOSLINK), although I know it can't passthrough DTS signals which is one of the only downsides and it not supporting the fading EAX 5.0, but for my exact purpose, I don't think for the price I could quite find another card like it, with all those reviews and positive opinions, I can't wait 

EDIT: @ WOG-BOY Comes with line out and headphone out with the required adapters to go from both to your desired 2x 3.5mm TRS Connectors


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## WOG-BOY (Apr 27, 2010)

sounds good. i might just go for the forte looks good enough for me


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## SabreWulf69 (Apr 29, 2010)

Alriiighty :-D New Sound Card should arrive by Thurs will let ya know how it goes, I am over the moon and dying of impatience lol


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## WOG-BOY (Apr 29, 2010)

SabreWulf69 said:


> Alriiighty :-D New Sound Card should arrive by Thurs will let ya know how it goes, I am over the moon and dying of impatience lol



haha nice  photos when it comes?? just like me headphones suposed to come today but.... no call 
i guess next thursday... i was so excited too lol ohwell


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## SabreWulf69 (Apr 29, 2010)

Yes photos for sure  Will have photos of my custom speakers, amp setup, cords, card, and eventually the whole setup but this time words will indeed speak louder than pictures heehee


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## WOG-BOY (Apr 29, 2010)

SabreWulf69 said:


> Yes photos for sure  Will have photos of my custom speakers, amp setup, cords, card, and eventually the whole setup but this time words will indeed speak louder than pictures heehee



haha ok sounds awsome


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## WOG-BOY (Apr 30, 2010)

Mum came home today with my new Studio beats by dr dre headphones  and man they make any song sound awsome XD the bass is so deep it actualy vibrates ur head, the mids are so balenced and the highs are so clear. everything works so good on this apart from 1 thing, the noise canceling isnt the best but does block out just enough so you can still hear other people if they need ur attention. so i guess thats not bad.

if anyone has any questions pls ask
pictures coming later testing first


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## Wile E (May 1, 2010)

Man, for that much money, I would've bought a pair of Senns or Grados. They would've sounded better.


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## WOG-BOY (May 1, 2010)

Wile E said:


> Man, for that much money, I would've bought a pair of Senns or Grados. They would've sounded better.



i had a look at the sennns and all the others but i really liked the look of the Beats. the sound is amazing enough as it is so they even out each other. you are right i could of got better sounding but these look so good and match my computer.


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## Wile E (May 1, 2010)

WOG-BOY said:


> i had a look at the sennns and all the others but i really liked the look of the Beats. the sound is amazing enough as it is so they even out each other. you are right i could of got better sounding but these look so good and match my computer.



Ahh, I see. That's where we differ. I will never sacrifice performance for looks. I'm just the kind of guy that doesn't care about looks in the slightest, all I ever care about is how well something functions. I'm like that with my audio stuff, my computer, and even my cars.


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## WOG-BOY (May 1, 2010)

Wile E said:


> Ahh, I see. That's where we differ. I will never sacrifice performance for looks. I'm just the kind of guy that doesn't care about looks in the slightest, all I ever care about is how well something functions. I'm like that with my audio stuff, my computer, and even my cars.



haha i used to be like that with my computer.... but things change. with my home audio im sorta like that but the rest has to be even.


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## Wile E (May 1, 2010)

WOG-BOY said:


> haha i used to be like that with my computer.... but things change. with my home audio im sorta like that but the rest has to be even.



Yeah, it's one of those "to each their own" things.


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## ste2425 (May 1, 2010)

This is my system Ive got a bit of a vintage thing going on.
My Pioneer SA620. Its got a total of 6 inputs with two outputs for a two track caste deck to record songs. A 15Hz frequency cut, Optional stereo mono modes and the fastest responding sound meter ive seen on any analogue system.









Plus its stupidly loud check out the meter and then how far up the volume nob is. Yea it probably would get blown out of the warter for volume by modern systems but for aduio quality now matter how good a modern system is digital cannot beat analogue.




First the signal goes into my mixer, I do a bit of DJ'ing so having the mixer set up makes it easy to practice mixes at home.




Then she drives these things there rather huge love em to bits, except the tweeter is blown on the one on the right, cannot afford a repair yet.




I did use this instead its a pioneer sa520 but i managed to blow it at a party i felt like crying, im keeping it though coz intend on fixing it when i get round to it. 




This is my vinyl player love vinyl im just a bit upset its not from all the same set.




My tape deck is like this but silver without all the button in the middle, still has the volume meter though, sadly its at home and not at uni so i cannot get a proper image of it.

And there you go thats my custom set up for pc speakers


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## WOG-BOY (May 2, 2010)

ste2425 said:


> This is my system Ive got a bit of a vintage thing going on.
> My Pioneer SA620. Its got a total of 6 inputs with two outputs for a two track caste deck to record songs. A 15Hz frequency cut, Optional stereo mono modes and the fastest responding sound meter ive seen on any analogue system.
> http://img.techpowerup.org/100501/PICT0240.jpg
> http://img.techpowerup.org/100501/PICT0243.jpg
> ...



wow man love the speakers  thoes would put out quiet alot.
haha ur amp is crazy. i thought mine was loud at 1/4...


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## ste2425 (May 2, 2010)

WOG-BOY said:


> wow man love the speakers  thoes would put out quiet alot.
> haha ur amp is crazy. i thought mine was loud at 1/4...



lol cheers man i do love it, i think it helps having the mixer boost the signal a little but it is supprisingly good quality for its age, that things older then me


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## SabreWulf69 (May 10, 2010)

Thought I'd bump this thread again with some random audio information -

For maximum sound quality ala accuracy your not supposed to upsample things your supposed to have them outputed in whatever format quality the stuff is that your listenin to, i.e. most if not all mp3's are 16-bit, 44.1KHz so thats what i have my soundcard set to and if i play DTS its overrided anyways by my DAC through the passthrough directly 


"If you're playing back 16-bit 44.1kHz sampled content without any processing, and the DAC is ideal, then increasing the sample rate or bitdepth will make no difference to the output quality. If the DAC is non-ideal, then upsampling in software can improved the measured performance. If the DAC is terrible, then ABXing this improvement by listening is possible (especially with torture signals!).

Increasing the bitdepth is only necessary to avoid a measurable decrease in quality if you're going to do any processing, e.g. EQ, ReplayGain, DSP, digital volume control, convolver etc etc. Most maths produces more bits, so it makes some sense to keep as many as possible. Otherwise you have to re-quantise the output of these stages back down to 16-bits, which is rather like dividing two by three, and then rounding to the nearest whole number! This is only ABXable on specific (mostly test) signals, but certainly improves the measured performance."


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## SabreWulf69 (May 10, 2010)

*Amps Watts Volts Conversion Guide*

Converting Watts to Amps

The conversion of Watts to Amps is governed by the equation Amps = Watts/Volts

For example 12 watts/12 volts = 1 amp
Converting Amps to Watts

The conversion of Amps to Watts is governed by the equation Watts = Amps x Volts

For example 1 amp * 110 volts = 110 watts

Converting Watts to Volts

The conversion of Watts to Volts is governed by the equation Volts = Watts/Amps

For example 100 watts/10 amps = 10 volts

Converting Volts to Watts

The conversion of Volts to Watts is governed by the equation Watts = Amps x Volts

For example 1.5 amps * 12 volts = 18 watts
Converting Volts to Amps at fixed wattage

The conversion of Volts to Amps is governed by the equations Amps = Watts/Volts

For example 120 watts/110 volts = 1.09 amps

Converting Amps to Volts at fixed wattage

The conversion of Amps to Volts is governed by the equation Volts = Watts/Amps

For Example, 48 watts / 12 Amps = 4 Volts

Explanation

Amps are how many electrons flow past a certain point per second. Volts is a measure of how much force that each electron is under. Think of water in a hose. A gallon a minute (think amps) just dribbles out if it is under low pressure (think low voltage). But if you restrict the end of the hose, letting the pressure build up, the water can have more power (like watts), even though it is still only one gallon a minute. In fact the power can grow enormous as the pressure builds, to the point that a water knife can cut a sheet of glass. In the same manner as the voltage is increased a small amount of current can turn into a lot of watts.


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## WOG-BOY (May 10, 2010)

SabreWulf69 said:


> Thought I'd bump this thread again with some random audio information -
> 
> For maximum sound quality ala accuracy your not supposed to upsample things your supposed to have them outputed in whatever format quality the stuff is that your listenin to, i.e. most if not all mp3's are 16-bit, 44.1KHz so thats what i have my soundcard set to and if i play DTS its overrided anyways by my DAC through the passthrough directly
> 
> ...



wow man u know way too much  lol jks
im guessing u really love quality of sound?
im more for spl but still minimum distortion as possible

i was waiting for some1 to bump this thread  dont know if ur alowed to double post or not

p.s. thanks for the coversions


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## SabreWulf69 (May 10, 2010)

*Solid-state VS Valve Amplification*

The main advantage of a solid-state amplifier is that it uses "negative feedback" a feedback that literally fed back into the circuit - to stabilise the signal and improve gain (or volume). While this gives you plenty of power to drive massive speakers and hurt your neighbours, it does affect the characteristics of the audio signal. 

Valve amps, on the other hand, use very little negative feedback and have very linear circuits. If your aim in amplifying an audio signal is to alter it as little as possible from the original , then a linear circuit has a good chance of doing that.

Something that baffles many valve n00bs is the apparent "weakness" of valve amps, in terms of power. An example of one called the PrimaLuna ProLogue FouR has only 35W per channel! What a piece of junk! But no: because valve amps are linear, their wattage "counts" for a lot more. About eight times more. So the ProLogue FouR can pump it with a 280W solid-state amp.

What is then true is that, dollar for dollar, it is much cheaper to get "valve sound" using a valve amp than it is to buy a very high-end solid-state system.


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## SabreWulf69 (May 10, 2010)

When you get lots of quality a usual bi-product, to me at least seems to be a lot of volume as well


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## WOG-BOY (May 10, 2010)

SabreWulf69 said:


> The main advantage of a solid-state amplifier is that it uses "negative feedback" a feedback that literally fed back into the circuit - to stabilise the signal and improve gain (or volume). While this gives you plenty of power to drive massive speakers and hurt your neighbours, it does affect the characteristics of the audio signal.
> 
> Valve amps, on the other hand, use very little negative feedback and have very linear circuits. If your aim in amplifying an audio signal is to alter it as little as possible from the original , then a linear circuit has a good chance of doing that.
> 
> ...



im proberbly 1 of thoes noobs too.... dont know as much as most of these people here and there is a big difference with the amount of experience they have had to me...
im just guessing but i think my NAD amp comes into that value area, some1 said its 45W each channel yet can destroy my 3 way pioneer 90W speakers easy at low volume.



SabreWulf69 said:


> When you get lots of quality a usual bi-product, to me at least seems to be a lot of volume as well


haha yea proberbly but im thinking most of the high-end amps can only do that my Yamaha amp hasnt got as much quality as the NAD but the yamaha is newer.... cheap china products im guessing is the cause.

p.s. what do you think about kicker subs compared to rockford fosgate? eg build quality and correct rms


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## SabreWulf69 (May 10, 2010)

Is your NAD a valve amp? otherwise, it's just the old factor of newer stuff is cheaper made having more short cuts made in manufacturing for cost cutting like *cough* Sony in their original PlayStations for example. I know someone who did mod chips on them and he said each revision they cut more and more cost out of it, and then on the Slimline one's they couldn't even run San Andreas without burning out the laser cos of the amount of data it had to keep constantly reading off the discs. Compared with the old days where products where made so company could make a name for themselves in supplying a decent product that would last for years to come, where as these days it's not about something being reliable unless you pay real top dollar, it's more about who can get their stuff out first with new technologies integrated and such, and rake as much money from it as possible. Well that's my opinion anyways.


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## WOG-BOY (May 10, 2010)

SabreWulf69 said:


> Is your NAD a valve amp? otherwise, it's just the old factor of newer stuff is cheaper made having more short cuts made in manufacturing for cost cutting like *cough* Sony in their original PlayStations for example. I know someone who did mod chips on them and he said each revision they cut more and more cost out of it, and then on the Slimline one's they couldn't even run San Andreas without burning out the laser cos of the amount of data it had to keep constantly reading off the discs. Compared with the old days where products where made so company could make a name for themselves in supplying a decent product that would last for years to come, where as these days it's not about something being reliable unless you pay real top dollar, it's more about who can get their stuff out first with new technologies integrated and such, and rake as much money from it as possible. Well that's my opinion anyways.



and a good opinion 
i dont know if it is or not. i got it from my uncle not long ago, he has no information about it
and forogt the cost -_- ohwell it performes above my likings so i have nothing to complain about


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## SabreWulf69 (May 10, 2010)

Yeah, sounds good, always liked the sound of the old NAD's and Rotels


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## WOG-BOY (Jun 17, 2010)

just wondering, can you wire a car subwoofer to a car amp using both front and rear channels bridged to gain the most power insted of using just 1 channel? im guessing it wont work but would be nice to know


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## SabreWulf69 (Jun 17, 2010)

Yes you can, just make sure you read the amplifier's manual regarding bridging on your particular model. Also read this handy guide --> http://www.bcae1.com/bridging.htm


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## rizla1 (Jun 17, 2010)

WOG-BOY said:


> just wondering, can you wire a car subwoofer to a car amp using both front and rear channels bridged to gain the most power insted of using just 1 channel? im guessing it wont work but would be nice to know



thats kinda what i randoly figured out with my dell sub. had to rewire it [rabits]
it was putting out no bass at all. also i have my stock pc speakers in ear output  , amp in front , 1 day when i was tidying up the cables i ran a wire from back speakers to the amp . and then i had bass? it should have been working on its own but maybe it needed better signal /power? . i dont no that much about speakers/amps n sitch.


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## ste2425 (Jun 17, 2010)

i think someone on here told me that if its line level (going into the amp) you cannot just put two channels together by splicing the wires together it makes the voltages too high or something. If it was speaker level (going out of the amp to speakers) thats fine.


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## caleb (Jun 17, 2010)

You cant join 2 diffrent line signals like that. Also connecting 2 speakers to one output changes their impendance depending if you connect them in parallel/series.
Bad configuration may fry amp/damage speakers.

Found some calc for that
http://www.bcae1.com/spkrmlti.htm


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## ste2425 (Jun 17, 2010)

caleb said:


> You cant join 2 diffrent line signals like that. Also connecting 2 speakers to one output changes their impendance depending if you connect them in parallel/series.
> Bad configuration may fry amp/damage speakers.
> 
> Found some calc for that
> http://www.bcae1.com/spkrmlti.htm



i new someone with better knowlege on the subject would be able to better describe what i was trying to say


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## SabreWulf69 (Jun 17, 2010)

Ya, turns out you can do it if the sub is a dual voice coil, as you will be essentially using two internal amps from 2 bridges (ala bridging the 4 to a 2 channel) with somewhat changed impedances (as long as amp is bridging capable) to use one channel to power one coil then the other channel to power the remaining coil. If it is just a SVC sub which I have been informed it is, it cannot be done as double bridging causes too much impedance load on the amp, and will cause shorts and/or you will be left with a smelly mess of smoke and fire in the amplifier.


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## SabreWulf69 (Aug 18, 2010)

Technically a double post, but hopefully someone will reply. I would just like some opinions on the subwoofer I now have on order. Looked around a bit at HSU, Dayton, SVS, B&W, PSB, Polk Audio, Wharfedale and Emotiva, but finally I decided to go with an Elemental Designs A2-250 subwoofer. Seems to go really low, be decently accurate, is really well built and has nice bit of power to boot. The product link is located here --> http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=2_41&products_id=406 . Tell me what you think, I'm personally looking really forward to my purchase  [Edit: Went with the PSB SubSonic 5i, hard to order internationally from Elemental Designs]


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## WOG-BOY (Oct 17, 2010)

Haven't been on in a while and decided to update pics of my system, amps are still the same atm but have got a few more subs and other speakers. subs are very underpowered because of the weak PSU but investing in a 2 frad cap to keep up the voltages.


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## SabreWulf69 (Oct 17, 2010)

Very good work, I think you have done quite well so far, keep it up, thumbs up


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## WOG-BOY (Oct 17, 2010)

haha thanks  slowly the system will be as good as yours


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## meran (Oct 17, 2010)

coool i have creative g500 5.1 with sub 130w rms and sattelite channels 36 w 
my friend gave me his burnt creative s700 i used the soeakers rms 70w i didnt use the sub can i swich my sub with the s700 sub 130vs 230???


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## WOG-BOY (Oct 17, 2010)

meran said:


> coool i have creative g500 5.1 with sub 130w rms and sattelite channels 36 w
> my friend gave me his burnt creative s700 i used the soeakers rms 70w i didnt use the sub can i switch my sub with the s700 sub 130vs 230???



so you want to change the driver from one box to another? if yes they would have to be the same size sub woofer to fit in the existing hole. you would be better asking SabreWulf69, he knows a lot more about it then me. the s700 sub doesnt have to match the g500 Watt rating just needs to be higher then the g500 rms


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## SabreWulf69 (Oct 17, 2010)

yeah just make sure it matches the hole size, your mileage will vary, alas it should work well


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## F1reFly (Oct 17, 2010)

How on earth do you use car audio gear in your home and keep them all sounding clean? not to mention turn it on/off with convenience?
years ago, i remember i used a battery charger, battery and hooked up some Rockford punch amp and two 12's, freaking pounded, but very power inefficient and was far from the cleanest sound.


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## AsRock (Oct 17, 2010)

WOG-BOY said:


> Haven't been on in a while and decided to update pics of my system, amps are still the same atm but have got a few more subs and other speakers. subs are very underpowered because of the weak PSU but investing in a 2 frad cap to keep up the voltages. http://img.techpowerup.org/101017/IMG00020-20101017-1648.jpg http://img.techpowerup.org/101017/IMG00024-20101017-1649.jpg http://img.techpowerup.org/101017/IMG00022-20101017-1649.jpg



Do NAD still have that very tight bass ?.


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## meran (Oct 17, 2010)

SabreWulf69 said:


> yeah just make sure it matches the hole size, your mileage will vary, alas it should work well



it is the same size ohms too but the wattage is more for the s700 woofer also i noticed it is dual coil woofer  mabe it wont fit>??


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## meran (Oct 17, 2010)

also what difference i get from replacing it ??


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## scaminatrix (Oct 17, 2010)

I'm using a Harman Kardon HK-6100 amp and Mission 730's
Hardly custom, but it's the one of the best sounding systems I've ever heard, especially with explosions and helicopters!
I'll get a photo up soon.


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## SabreWulf69 (Oct 17, 2010)

meran said:


> also what difference i get from replacing it ??



May or may not be able to go louder. Experiment ultimately the way to find out is to swap the drivers for yourself. If it's a dual coil, then try wiring it in parallel as subs like to run at the lowest ohms, just keep an eye at first when ya crank the sub up on the temperatures of the plate amp, and make sure the sub isn't bottoming out. According to this excellent article --> http://www.audiojunkies.com/blog/13...distortion-clipping-and-everything-in-between , you can overpower something, just don't overdrive it, if you want to hear the maximum fidelity and loudness from a speaker, make sure it is amplified properly, have your gains set correctly among other things, then you can't go wrong. I have always said music no matter what it is can't kill a system, people, incorrect configurations, and poorly made components kill systems. The general science is --> 3 things kill speakers 1) Exceding thermal limits. 2) Exceding mechanical limits. 3) Material degradation. "Generally, amplifiers use the formula V1=G*V2. To power the amplifying device, you usually need two reference points, +Vcc and -Vcc. For symetrical reasons, they usually have the same absolute value. If these values are not high enough, the amplified peak value may exceed +-Vcc, causing clipping".


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## WOG-BOY (Oct 17, 2010)

AsRock said:


> Do NAD still have that very tight bass ?.


Yes it has very tight bass, I got an older version so I'm not sure if the new ones are the same


F1reFly said:


> How on earth do you use car audio gear in your home and keep them all sounding clean? not to mention turn it on/off with convenience?
> years ago, i remember i used a battery charger, battery and hooked up some Rockford punch amp and two 12's, freaking pounded, but very power inefficient and was far from the cleanest sound.


The PSU that poweres the RF amp has an on/off switch so I just use that to turn it off, to me the subs sound very clean, better then my yamaha hi-fi sub I used to have

@meran it might work if you wire it up properly in series maybe but I'm not sure if you will gain much more of a difference


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## SabreWulf69 (Oct 17, 2010)

WOG-BOY said:


> The PSU that poweres the RF amp has an on/off switch so I just use that to turn it off, to me the subs sound very clean, better then my yamaha hi-fi sub I used to have



How's the frequency response?


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## WOG-BOY (Oct 17, 2010)

SabreWulf69 said:


> How's the frequency response?


I'm not sure what the box is tuned to but it sounds like it peaks at arround 40-30 hz, I have the crossover set at I think 80hz last time I checked. Past 30hz isn't really the best in my house, can't hear it very well but in a brick house it sounds better


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## SabreWulf69 (Oct 17, 2010)

Try and play with your EQ's. A little basic trick I do to tune mine is as follows. [Make sure you measure everything with ALL EQ's disabled/flat]. Write down the values of frequencies that your EQ has, then based on this generate a sinewave in a piece of software at 0dB fs going for about 2 minutes each for every frequency from the EQ. Once this is done, get a sound level meter, set your amps and whatnot to as loud as you want keeping the volume level set and sound level meter in the exact location all the time through the test. Play each sinewave frequency once, noting down the frequency and measured reading of loudness from each from the sound level meter. Once completed, create a bar graph using the data, with dB on the vertical axis, and frequency on the horizontal axis. When completed should look something similar to an EQ. This chart represents all the peaks and dips in your measured in room frequency response adjustable via your pre-defined EQ. If there is a peak in the graph on one of the frequencies, then lower that particular value on the EQ but whatever amount you deem necessary compared to on the graph. Whilst not an exact science, with a bit of experimentation and perseverance you can pretty much get your system sounding spot on, for very cheap. Detail and whatnot on the other hand is a completely different story.


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## WOG-BOY (Oct 18, 2010)

SabreWulf69 said:


> Try and play with your EQ's. A little basic trick I do to tune mine is as follows. [Make sure you measure everything with ALL EQ's disabled/flat]. Write down the values of frequencies that your EQ has, then based on this generate a sinewave in a piece of software at 0dB fs going for about 2 minutes each for every frequency from the EQ. Once this is done, get a sound level meter, set your amps and whatnot to as loud as you want keeping the volume level set and sound level meter in the exact location all the time through the test. Play each sinewave frequency once, noting down the frequency and measured reading of loudness from each from the sound level meter. Once completed, create a bar graph using the data, with dB on the vertical axis, and frequency on the horizontal axis. When completed should look something similar to an EQ. This chart represents all the peaks and dips in your measured in room frequency response adjustable via your pre-defined EQ. If there is a peak in the graph on one of the frequencies, then lower that particular value on the EQ but whatever amount you deem necessary compared to on the graph. Whilst not an exact science, with a bit of experimentation and perseverance you can pretty much get your system sounding spot on, for very cheap. Detail and whatnot on the other hand is a completely different story.



what software could i use to generate sinewaves? i haven't heard of any and never tried. I'll try that when i get my cap for the sub's they don't go as loud as i want at the moment because of the voltage drops.
Also what EQ would i change? i did have a system wide EQ but then changed to HDMI audio because of my new screen, i have my computer going from HDMI to my screen then 2 red and white RCA's going to my nad amp for audio, still have to connect the yamaha to the system


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## SabreWulf69 (Oct 18, 2010)

Heaps of software can generate sine waves. Some general ones are NCH Tone Generator and RoomEQ Wizard. I use Sony Sound Forge Pro personally. I think Audacity may be able to do it too. As for changing your EQ's via HDMI, it would depend I guess on your sound card and HDMI setup on the PC itself. Otherwise I'd guess you'd have to do it on a program by program basis. EQ'ing a system is something widely used for PA setups in venues, so it is my conclusion that it can serve many well in home use as well. My method is a cheaper alternative to using a RTA (Real Time Analyzer).


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## meran (Oct 23, 2010)

WOG-BOY said:


> Yes it has very tight bass, I got an older version so I'm not sure if the new ones are the same
> 
> The PSU that poweres the RF amp has an on/off switch so I just use that to turn it off, to me the subs sound very clean, better then my yamaha hi-fi sub I used to have
> 
> @meran it might work if you wire it up properly in series maybe but I'm not sure if you will gain much more of a difference



in series i get 2xohms and 2xlower vloume but in parallel i will risk burning the amplifire


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## meran (Oct 23, 2010)

SabreWulf69 said:


> Try and play with your EQ's. A little basic trick I do to tune mine is as follows. [Make sure you measure everything with ALL EQ's disabled/flat]. Write down the values of frequencies that your EQ has, then based on this generate a sinewave in a piece of software at 0dB fs going for about 2 minutes each for every frequency from the EQ. Once this is done, get a sound level meter, set your amps and whatnot to as loud as you want keeping the volume level set and sound level meter in the exact location all the time through the test. Play each sinewave frequency once, noting down the frequency and measured reading of loudness from each from the sound level meter. Once completed, create a bar graph using the data, with dB on the vertical axis, and frequency on the horizontal axis. When completed should look something similar to an EQ. This chart represents all the peaks and dips in your measured in room frequency response adjustable via your pre-defined EQ. If there is a peak in the graph on one of the frequencies, then lower that particular value on the EQ but whatever amount you deem necessary compared to on the graph. Whilst not an exact science, with a bit of experimentation and perseverance you can pretty much get your system sounding spot on, for very cheap. Detail and whatnot on the other hand is a completely different story.




i was searching for this tread for ages thanks i will open my g500 in 2 days i hope if i got time and upload some pictures for the g500 and the burnt s700


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## meran (Oct 24, 2010)

hehe the s700 woofer has 3 coils with 8 OHMS each my original creative g500 has only one coil 6OHMS 130W so i connected 2 coils from the s700 woofer parallel to the out put the sound is almost the same isnt worth the risk :shadedshu also i was affraid from connecting the third coil in parallel cuz OHMS will come down to 3 OHMS thats too much for the AMP. unit to handle 
i will find a way to fit it in our KIA optima trunk since it doesnt have a sub :shadedshu

is sony car amplifire is good ??? i finde it commercial some how ??


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## SabreWulf69 (Oct 24, 2010)

That is indeed very interesting. Well if thats the case you can wire up 2 coils in series then in turn when you have done that, wire them to the last coil in parallel. You can technically wire up 1000 speakers to an amplifier without killing it for example. I think there are some quad box guitar speakers that use this configuration of wiring.


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