# Surround problems with 6800XT



## Mistral (Nov 6, 2021)

So, my setup was a RX580 going into a U7G, going into a V475 Yamaha via Toslink (because ARC was not working and the receiver can't do 4k60).

Some days ago, I was lucky enough to be able to swap the RX580 for a 6800XT.

Here the audio problems started. Now stereo sources still work fine, though the volume is quite inconsistent between Windows, YouTube and different video files, especially compared to before the change. Any surround sources either do not work, or work for a while and then stop, producing silence and the occasional khrrr noise. Opening a stereo source works, and sometimes enables me to listen to a surround source after, sometimes not.

Sometimes, when surround works, the Atmos logo pops on the TV, sometimes it doesn't. But I haven't had a case where I start a video, I see the Atmos logo, and the sound doesn't work.

It seems random, inconsistent, and makes no sense. I tried reinstalling AMD's drivers. I tried switching to the now "working" ARC. Same result. It's either the bloody software, or the handshake on the TV's side. No idea. Anyone with a similar experience and success fixing it?


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## Mussels (Nov 6, 2021)

What audio codecs are you streaming? Are you doing PCM, or pre-encoded DD/DTS content?


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## Mistral (Nov 6, 2021)

Mussels said:


> What audio codecs are you streaming? Are you doing PCM, or pre-encoded DD/DTS content?


I'm not really knowledgeable about audio, but I guess the answer is DD+ using whatever comes with Windows and MPC-HC.


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## Mussels (Nov 6, 2021)

You're going to need to find that information out, it's kinda relevant


And by relevant i mean absolutely critical


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## Ferather (Nov 6, 2021)

I agree with @Mussels, although your original post sounds like a receiver or settings issue, I am not sure why you would see Atmos unless you are sending Atmos.
MPC-HC will probably be default PCM, not 100% sure, PCM and bitstreaming are two different things. Bitstreaming normally needs stereo set.


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## Mistral (Nov 7, 2021)

The settings on the receiver were not touched and the only software change was uninstalling the AMD drivers before removing the RX580 and installing the month-or-two newer version of the drivers after switching to the 6800XT. I have a simple test I can do to rule out if it's the TV not playing nice with the new card or not, I'll get back after I try.

@Mussels - beyond what I mentioned, tell me how to acquire any absolutely critical information and I'll provide it.


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## Mussels (Nov 7, 2021)

We need to know what you're playing, and what audio source its sending
Toslink is stereo only, with support for more channels via compressed codecs - when one of those is playing (say, from a video file) - no other audio will work until that audio stops, or the player is closed.

When you run audio pass-through with pre-compressed digital audio, it takes over completely. It becomes the only audio source and controls volume.

You can disable digital codecs in the driver options - this monitor here supports none, but the bottom area should have tickboxes. You can disable various codecs there and force PCM (stereo)


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## Ferather (Nov 7, 2021)

@Mussels, don't get me started on SPDIF and stereo, its more an OEM issue, it can do much more (interesting story). Indeed if you bitstream (aka passthrough), the device will enter exclusive mode.

--

He should be able to bitstream a supported format, and then set the receiver as needed, most I have seen you set the AVR to the format as a setting or mode.
If this fails at some point, you need to check two things, making sure the 6800XT is bitstreaming the data-audio, and the receiver directly.

DTS Trailers - The Digital Theater | Dolby Trailers - The Digital Theater (making sure Windows is set to stereo)

For PCM audio, you need to set the speaker settings in Windows to 5.1-7.1, then play a multichannel PCM file (examples here). Same checks as above.


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## Mistral (Nov 7, 2021)

So, here's what I have:





6800 -> TV -> receiver via toslink -> surround glitches
6800 -> TV -> receiver via ARC -> surround glitches
6800 -> TV -> using the TV speakers and no receiver -> sound glitches
6800 -> receiver -> TV -> the sound works perfectly fine, but the receiver is HDMI1.4 it maxes at 4k30

The grand annoyance is that 580 -> TV -> receiver via toslink -> sound used to work perfectly.

If the above info is sufficient to give any clue as to what exactly I have to reinstall or adjust, please enlighten me.

If I were to assume the problem cannot be fixed in software, the purely hardware solution available would be to get a DP to HDMI convertor so the card to feed the receiver directly with just the audio, or to toslink from mobo onboard audio to receiver (further possible software problems), or to get a new receiver that can pass 4k120 (which I would do if there was anything in stock at a reasonable price).


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## Mussels (Nov 8, 2021)

Now that, is a lot of good information

Does regular old stereo work without issues?

Have you tried changing HDMI cables? (Yes, a newer GPU might have enabled features that need a better cable)

What standards does the receiver actually support? If the GPU and TV support all the new stuff while the receiver only does dolby digital, you have your answer


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## Ferather (Nov 8, 2021)

He might have a faulty unit, I have no way to compare his result to mine, My R7 I have no issues. I dont see an issue with the EDID.

AMD R7 (HDMI) > HDMI Extractor (in your case monitor) > Toslink (optical) > Z906.





----

Edit: In some way based on the test results, it sounds like HDMI 2.0-2.1? and you have no issues with 1.4? My R7 is 1.4.
You can also try this mode for your receiver, in my case it allows me to send everything down Toslink.

The extractor I am using is HDMI 2.0b, UltraHD, but with 1.4 input from the R7.




----

SPDIF and HDMI 1.4 are identical in practically every way, the only real difference is that OEM's stick a 2 channel PCM digital converter in instead of a 5.1-7.1 one.
HDMI 2.0+ has additional PCM aggregate sample rate (1536khz, up from 768khz?), the total bitrate and everything else for audio is the same.

HDMI has a maximum bitrate of ~37mbps for audio, same as DisplayPort, SPDIF-Toslink can go up to 125mbps.


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## funboy6942 (Nov 9, 2021)

OK, try this, I have the same tv, and you may be hooking everything up wrong causing your trouble.

One: that receiver may not do 4K60, BUT your not sending video from your tv to it using arc, your just sending sound n crap, no video what so ever. In fact, your receiver has upscaling I believe, so you can hook things like old dvd player, vhs, laser disc, and it, depending on the hardware chip, will take that 480i signal, and do its best to make it look better, and in some cases it does. 

Now our tv does upscale as well up to 4K itself, so putting stuff in the receiver, and in the tv may be a great option if you have a ton of crap hooked up like I do.

So that said, now you know, that arc is really a way to make audio to go from tv, to receiver, or receiver to tv for it goes both ways and many wonderous other things, but for now, lets just do audio, so do this:

Find the arc port on the back of your tv, and make sure to use better then k-mart blue light special cables and plug it in there, then take the other end and plug it into the output of the receiver that says arc. Now at this point I have in my possession I think the same amp too, it was in my bedroom, but you will most likely have to go into its setting and manually turn it on.

After doing that the fun begins! You can now use the tv as another set of full inputs analog and digital (hdmi) which is cool, for if you have say a XB/PS4/5 you take its HDMI and plug it into another ARC (if it has one cannot remember) but any will do, for when your tv now sends arc (sound from anything thats plugged into it) down the receiver, and if thats on and set up right, Crutchfield (click me) has a breakdown and review of that Yamma with pdf, should switch over. At this point if it is a newer game console go into its setting, switch display over to 4K and anything else it says you can turn on, and if it says you can click on 3D, do not. Go into audio, and select it for Uncompressed if it will let you, and it will now display a glorious picture, and send that kick butt sound now down to that yamma. I have a XBO X (no series) and it also has setting for atmos and Dolby Vision for that tv, for you want that on too.

Now 6800X and using a good cable hook it up to the Hisense, it will take its audio (after you set that up in windows) and spit it down the receiver through arc. You may have to go into the setting for both tv, and or receiver to set the ins and outs to do arc wizardry, so read manuals on both tv and receiver, has great pictures  

Now Yamma Yamma: You can now plug all kinds of crap to it thats old, dvd, vhs you know, OG NES, for because its got that arc plugged out it into the tv, will upscale that older stuff, and newer, great if you run out of room but got a old wii u, or 360 with hdmi, or adapters for OG stuff to go analog to hdmi using its ports too, and it will upscale it all to 1080P, and remember when I said that tv upscales low rez direct to 4k? Well yup, it will now take that 1080P sig from the yamma, and upscale it to 4K, and depending on what all you hook up to it, is what your gonna get unless you use the surround sound chip in the yamma to fake the sound into crappy sim surround.

That should be it for I have a 6700XT Same TV, but I have a Marantz, and I use it all like that sending and using all my tv HDMI inputs for the arc that do 4K or more, while using my receiver to get all the old stuff at 1080p then sent to the tv to take it and fake make it 4K.

Your sound and video issues I hope helped and made some sense to you, I am not the best at it, and have problems when trying to explain in text when I can do all I just said in about 20 seconds


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## Ferather (Nov 11, 2021)

"I am not the best at it, and have problems when trying to explain in text when I can do all I just said in about 20 seconds" 
You did perfectly fine, I have ADHD myself and have issues reading walls and blocks of text.


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## Mistral (Nov 11, 2021)

Minor update:

- dropping output to 1080p60 changes nothing
- forcing the TV to pass, PCM or DD+ the audio instead of leaving in on auto changes nothing
- tried different HDMI cables just for kicks and no avail
- while I previously said that with 6800 -> receiver -> TV -> the sound works perfectly, I now noticed that there are the rare rare random pieces of a second or so of silence here and there, as if the audio stream drops...

Seriously, is there a way we can completely rule out the possibility of a hardware problem with the video card (that preferably doesn't involve taking it out and plugging it into another computer)?


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## funboy6942 (Nov 11, 2021)

*EDITED:*

OK:
6800XT out HDMI, to TV, NOT receiver, to input HDMI 2.

Switch tv input setting for HDMI 2 to HDMI 2.0 format to Enhanced if it says it is on 2.0 Enhanced some receivers do not like HDMI 2.0, so switch that to Standard

Take a HDMI cable from INPUT 1 (arc, MUST SAY ARC) of tv, to OUTPUT ARC of Receiver.
A: Audio
R: Return
C: Channel

Right click on speaker Icon lower right on ur pc (providing you have a ACTUAL AMD driver installed for your 6800XT not widows basic) Select Input settings/Select AMD-Hisense (selecting this one should get you sound coming from your pc to then the tv speakers) Then there "may" be a setting saying AMD-Yamaha Digital, which would be awesome for then your pc is seeing arc hooked between your tv and the Yamaha, and if not continue 2 down.

If Yamaha is there:
Select it and set to default. Configure now selectable on the lower left and set up ur speakers for output 2.0/2.1/4/5/7.1 should you see it pop up as AMD-Yamaha Digital or Digital Yamaha, in any case, if not seeing your Yamaha keep reading below. If it does show your Yamaha at this point Set it up also for small or large speakers, click done. Go to properties in the same window lower right, and change the sound advanced setting to 24/48 as a baseline, almost ALL receivers unless really old should do that setting no problem.

Now with receiver on, may have to hit tv audio button if your receiver has one, my Marantz does, and you should now have sound, and ANYTHING hooked to that tv in the other ports for sound, analog and HDMI, will ARC to the Receiver, and the other way around, for anything lesser then like 360 NOT USING hdmi OR A wii (NOT u) can be then hooked to the yamaha, and its video will then be seen on Video HDMI Input 1 of the tv.

Since as you mentioned that Yamaha receiver does 1080P not 4K, then you are doing the "reverse" and using your tv as the "4K Switch" and video, and the Yamaha and The Hisense ONLY to talk back and forth to do the Audio coming from the 6800XT you plugged into the tv, and consoles like PS XB that are 4K going to the tv, and now ANY of the smart features the tv has, will also be sent to the Yamaha in AUDIO FOR ONLY through arc so you can have 4K picture, and STILL 5.1 on a older unit like you have.

If you still have no sound go and see if you need to manually switch tv, in tv sound setting from tv sound to ARC if it will let you. Also, depending on grade of HDMI cable will give you audio drops, and in some case may need to play around with the Auto/Passthrough/Dolby/Atmos/DTS settings within the tv to see what your receiver likes coming from the 6800xt to play nice sometimes with older arc supported receivers. But at this point you should have sound, I know, because I finally got my set up finished just now in my man cave with My Hisense put back up in front of my with my marantz and haw I have my Xb One X and my 6700XT hooked up to my tv and my Marantz sound, even though my Marantz Does 4K input on the HDMI line, I prefer to hook this stuff up this way anyhow for I have a TON of crap, more inputs then the marantz has anyway, and it does not do Dolby Vision when our tv does, and the XbOne Has Dolby Vision so only way to get that to work, and HDR off the PC to work correctly, is direct to the tv, and ACR to the Marantz/Your Yamaha so I can still have Uncompressed 7.1 surround sound, and make use on Dolby Vision and Games/Movies/Streaming services I play off my XbOne that supports it then for best in Sound and Video.

But anyone reading this you do not need a 4K receiver, and if all you care about, and if all you want is 5.1 surround with a sub for PC/Console Gaming with a 4K ready tv, then all you really need then is do above, plug all things to the tv, and run a Spdif cable (one single cable) from the tv with or without arc to a receiver with or with out arc, and just run the (red light) spdif in the back of your tv, to the back of even the oldest of receivers just as long as it supports spdif and dd or dts and call it a day  . You are not sending ANY video at all over Spdif or even Arc for that matter if it goes all to your tv first using one of the 2 methods above to achieve sound from ur tv, smart, pc, or console. And in most cases, any good older receiver for that matter will have at least 2 "optical" inputs (or more), one for your tv, and another for this problem this guy is having and run the Spdif "optical" then from your computers mobo or sound card, call it a day 

And if thats not enough they make switches you can buy at amazon to plug the hdmi line into with a hdmi out, that can even strip the spdif signal without even using a tv if need be.

Such as this (one of many I own of different other types) Click me! That one has the most universal settings of any of the other switches I own, and the most expensive because of it, for it has 4 HDMI in 4K60 with TWO HDMI outputs that you can run to different sources or at the same time 2 other parts of the house and it strips the basic 5.1 Spdif from both output signals to boot.

This is how I get sound going from my Hisense H8G from my PC's 6700XT and my XbOne and my Hisense Smart Crap like hulu/Netflix/Vudu so it will then send the sound to my receiver be it with my Now Marantz (4K60), or the Denon (1080P) HDMI units I had hooked up before that, which before that I had ones with NO hdmi at all, and gone all Analog, and do not get me started on that for if I want as pure as I can make it then its a Creative X3 and nothing but all analog to my Marantz or anything else before all the the rest, for digital is good for coming off the tv, doing uncompressed digital from consoles or smart tv when hooked like I mentioned, but really from a game, movie, audio stand point for ME, I prefer all else from my pc be almost all Analog audio, sounds better to me IMHO. So you asked if anyone can tell you how to get sound working with your 6800XT and besides me having a 6700XT everything I just wrote out again will get you sound UNLESS ur receiver is craped out, but then just do the spdif out the tv to your Yamaha and still call it a day. Ur yamaha only does 5.1 anyways so HDMI 4K Arc no arc, just put ur pc and consoles to your tv, run the one Spdif optical cable and quits at that point. Your receiver has 2 opticals in, so run a optical off ur sound card or mobo sound card and forget HDMI all together, and run another Optical to your 2nd from your tv, so all the smart crap and consoles will have sound at ur receiver, and not even touch then a single in or out hdmi going to or from your Yamaha, just the 2 optical wires from pc and tv, and speaker wires call it done for digital ur trying to get from ur 6800xt then through its HDMI and Software is really no different sounding or better then them 2 optical wires in its place, your receiver if HDMI and ARC worked, your 6800XT cannot send anything better to a Yamaha that ur receiver only supports DD Plus and DTS HD as its highest supported for sound.


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## Mussels (Nov 12, 2021)

Mistral said:


> Minor update:
> 
> - dropping output to 1080p60 changes nothing
> - forcing the TV to pass, PCM or DD+ the audio instead of leaving in on auto changes nothing
> ...


Run the PC straight to the receiver, at this rate. Even if its using analog 3.5mm to RCA


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## Mistral (Nov 12, 2021)

Mussels said:


> Run the PC straight to the receiver, at this rate. Even if its using analog 3.5mm to RCA


I think I'll just switch to PC speaker


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## Mussels (Nov 12, 2021)

Yeah, just see what bypasses the issue


There could be something else going on here like a failing receiver or faulty cable, and trying alternatives may be  how you can spot it


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## Ferather (Nov 12, 2021)

PCM tends to be the easiest method, if a device fails to support PCM, its pretty much broken. Bitstreaming and HDMI does have its cons. I don't like a video feed for audio only myself.


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## funboy6942 (Nov 12, 2021)

Though long in substance above, I did do what you had asked with the tv and same pretty much graphics card/audio soooooooo..... if all equipment it working right, what I wrote will work, and PC speakers, really? Run the 2 spdif optical wires, one from the tv, the other from the Computers mobo or other sound card, and just call it a day. Unless if you really plan on replacing this with pc speakers, I hope they are some Logitech Z5500 THX stuff there really isnt much other to sound better then even a cheap amp and ur own speakers, but even still there, you are analog or Spdif Optical only with the z5500 as well, so just use ur speakers, ur amp, and stop wasting the time trying to get the 6800XT sound working till you get a better amp that can support the card or other sound cards better  . Your only 5.1 (assuming ur using the yamaha to do more then just 2.0 stereo), with a cheap amp, not many sound settings anyways with it, for what is the goal? If you think that going to your receiver, then to your tv is the smart choice and right way, days of old hooking up is really gone, and ur tv has features ur pc/console will that going to say a new 4K amp, that still may support 4k60 with hdr but its having dolby vision ready av receiver is going to cost a good penny, so then really, go buy 2 optical cables, plug them in, call it a night, you are not missing anything at all between that amp and SPDIF sound vs HDMI at this point, or what you are thinking that 6800XT sound is going to give you and be different???

*EDITED:*

OK:
6800XT out HDMI, to TV, NOT receiver, to input HDMI 2.

Switch tv input setting for HDMI 2 to HDMI 2.0 format to Enhanced if it says it is on 2.0 Enhanced some receivers do not like HDMI 2.0, so switch that to Standard

Take a HDMI cable from INPUT 1 (arc, MUST SAY ARC) of tv, to OUTPUT ARC of Receiver.
A: Audio
R: Return
C: Channel

Right click on speaker Icon lower right on ur pc (providing you have a ACTUAL AMD driver installed for your 6800XT not widows basic) Select Input settings/Select AMD-Hisense (selecting this one should get you sound coming from your pc to then the tv speakers) Then there "may" be a setting saying AMD-Yamaha Digital, which would be awesome for then your pc is seeing arc hooked between your tv and the Yamaha, and if not continue 2 down.

If Yamaha is there:
Select it and set to default. Configure now selectable on the lower left and set up ur speakers for output 2.0/2.1/4/5/7.1 should you see it pop up as AMD-Yamaha Digital or Digital Yamaha, in any case, if not seeing your Yamaha keep reading below. If it does show your Yamaha at this point Set it up also for small or large speakers, click done. Go to properties in the same window lower right, and change the sound advanced setting to 24/48 as a baseline, almost ALL receivers unless really old should do that setting no problem.

Now with receiver on, may have to hit tv audio button if your receiver has one, my Marantz does, and you should now have sound, and ANYTHING hooked to that tv in the other ports for sound, analog and HDMI, will ARC to the Receiver, and the other way around, for anything lesser then like 360 NOT USING hdmi OR A wii (NOT u) can be then hooked to the yamaha, and its video will then be seen on Video HDMI Input 1 of the tv.

Since as you mentioned that Yamaha receiver does 1080P not 4K, then you are doing the "reverse" and using your tv as the "4K Switch" and video, and the Yamaha and The Hisense ONLY to talk back and forth to do the Audio coming from the 6800XT you plugged into the tv, and consoles like PS XB that are 4K going to the tv, and now ANY of the smart features the tv has, will also be sent to the Yamaha in AUDIO FOR ONLY through arc so you can have 4K picture, and STILL 5.1 on a older unit like you have.

If you still have no sound go and see if you need to manually switch tv, in tv sound setting from tv sound to ARC if it will let you. Also, depending on grade of HDMI cable will give you audio drops, and in some case may need to play around with the Auto/Passthrough/Dolby/Atmos/DTS settings within the tv to see what your receiver likes coming from the 6800xt to play nice sometimes with older arc supported receivers. But at this point you should have sound, I know, because I finally got my set up finished just now in my man cave with My Hisense put back up in front of my with my marantz and haw I have my Xb One X and my 6700XT hooked up to my tv and my Marantz sound, even though my Marantz Does 4K input on the HDMI line, I prefer to hook this stuff up this way anyhow for I have a TON of crap, more inputs then the marantz has anyway, and it does not do Dolby Vision when our tv does, and the XbOne Has Dolby Vision so only way to get that to work, and HDR off the PC to work correctly, is direct to the tv, and ACR to the Marantz/Your Yamaha so I can still have Uncompressed 7.1 surround sound, and make use on Dolby Vision and Games/Movies/Streaming services I play off my XbOne that supports it then for best in Sound and Video.

But anyone reading this you do not need a 4K receiver, and if all you care about, and if all you want is 5.1 surround with a sub for PC/Console Gaming with a 4K ready tv, then all you really need then is do above, plug all things to the tv, and run a Spdif cable (one single cable) from the tv with or without arc to a receiver with or with out arc, and just run the (red light) spdif in the back of your tv, to the back of even the oldest of receivers just as long as it supports spdif and dd or dts and call it a day  . You are not sending ANY video at all over Spdif or even Arc for that matter if it goes all to your tv first using one of the 2 methods above to achieve sound from ur tv, smart, pc, or console. And in most cases, any good older receiver for that matter will have at least 2 "optical" inputs (or more), one for your tv, and another for this problem this guy is having and run the Spdif "optical" then from your computers mobo or sound card, call it a day 

And if thats not enough they make switches you can buy at amazon to plug the hdmi line into with a hdmi out, that can even strip the spdif signal without even using a tv if need be.

Such as this (one of many I own of different other types) Click me! That one has the most universal settings of any of the other switches I own, and the most expensive because of it, for it has 4 HDMI in 4K60 with TWO HDMI outputs that you can run to different sources or at the same time 2 other parts of the house and it strips the basic 5.1 Spdif from both output signals to boot.

This is how I get sound going from my Hisense H8G from my PC's 6700XT and my XbOne and my Hisense Smart Crap like hulu/Netflix/Vudu so it will then send the sound to my receiver be it with my Now Marantz (4K60), or the Denon (1080P) HDMI units I had hooked up before that, which before that I had ones with NO hdmi at all, and gone all Analog, and do not get me started on that for if I want as pure as I can make it then its a Creative X3 and nothing but all analog to my Marantz or anything else before all the the rest, for digital is good for coming off the tv, doing uncompressed digital from consoles or smart tv when hooked like I mentioned, but really from a game, movie, audio stand point for ME, I prefer all else from my pc be almost all Analog audio, sounds better to me IMHO. So you asked if anyone can tell you how to get sound working with your 6800XT and besides me having a 6700XT everything I just wrote out again will get you sound UNLESS ur receiver is craped out, but then just do the spdif out the tv to your Yamaha and still call it a day. Ur yamaha only does 5.1 anyways so HDMI 4K Arc no arc, just put ur pc and consoles to your tv, run the one Spdif optical cable and quits at that point. Your receiver has 2 opticals in, so run a optical off ur sound card or mobo sound card and forget HDMI all together, and run another Optical to your 2nd from your tv, so all the smart crap and consoles will have sound at ur receiver, and not even touch then a single in or out hdmi going to or from your Yamaha, just the 2 optical wires from pc and tv, and speaker wires call it done for digital ur trying to get from ur 6800xt then through its HDMI and Software is really no different sounding or better then them 2 optical wires in its place, your receiver if HDMI and ARC worked, your 6800XT cannot send anything better to a Yamaha that



Ferather said:


> PCM tends to be the easiest method, if a device fails to support PCM, its pretty much broken. Bitstreaming and HDMI does have its cons. I don't like a video feed for audio only myself.


I agree for though a PITA, big time, I have stuff 2.0 analog, 7.1 analog, Spdif, and HDMI for depending on what I am doing or watching, and what on and with, so for me, imho, I will agree for I really only use the HDMI for sound, not for games or youtubes, but for movies I have on BR that are atmos or anything the like over DTD HD quality, all the rest is old games, spdif if older then a XbOne and no HDMI out, and all the rest is direct analog right from my X3 for all else like music and games sound better to me, IMHO, then anything compressed. Between my amp and Pot Player (yes thats real and again IMO is far better then VLC for it has sooooooo many adjustments and play toys over VLC (though I still use it too), but for movies and sound and changing how Id like to to sound, can miniplate the sound to my taste between pot player, my pc/Amp using just Analog, and I will argue till I day that if you see NO options in ur game(s) that allow you to change between 5/7.1 surround sound and just says you can adjust sound levels for mic speaker and the like, that UNLESS you play that game in Analog, off a PC not console, youre getting compressed "simulated" surround not as intended as you would if you ran just pure analog from ur PC to a 5/7.1 analog IN, not out, capable receiver. All good if your using a console, but gaming/music/and movie playing of ur PC is very different and can be a Major PITA.

And for those that want to argue with me HDMI/Optical is MUCH better, then let me ask you this:
If analog is soooooo dead and HDMI, and Optical (though very very old technology) why do board, and card manufactures still really put them in, with bad butt DAC inside (or software) when they could just save that money? Or better yet, why are there sound cards you can buy that have Analog with just 2.0, so you can run a really good external dac, and bad butt speakers, if they, and people like us still see a need for it, costing a TON more money then my X3 (and I am sure in 2.0 stereo sound fantastic vs my X3), if one was to say HDMI (compressed, uncompressed from ur pc with those options mentioned above in game sound settings menu can send then true 5/7.1 provided you have the right amp and hooked up correctly) or SPDIF for even the modest of sound cards built into mobos today say what bit rate and HRZ that crappy Realtek can do in optical, example(s):

For digital audio, if an HDMI device has audio, it is required to implement the baseline format: stereo (uncompressed) PCM. Other formats are optional, with HDMI allowing up to 8 channels of uncompressed audio at sample sizes of 16 bits, 20 bits, or 24 bits, with sample rates of 32 kHz, 44.1 kHz, 48 kHz, 88.2 kHz, 96 kHz, 176.4 kHz, or 192 kHz.[5]: §7  HDMI also carries any IEC 61937-compliant compressed audio stream, such as Dolby Digital and DTS, and up to 8 channels of one-bit DSD audio (used on Super Audio CDs) at rates up to four times that of Super Audio CD.[5]: §7  With version 1.3, HDMI allows lossless compressed audio streams Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio.[5]: §7  As with the Y′CBCR video, audio capability is optional. Audio return channel (ARC) is a feature introduced in the HDMI 1.4 standard.[41] "Return" refers to the case where the audio comes from the TV and can be sent "upstream" to the AV receiver using the HDMI cable connected to the AV receiver.[41] An example given on the HDMI website is that a TV that directly receives a terrestrial/satellite broadcast, or has a video source built in, sends the audio "upstream" to the AV receiver.[41]

For digital audio, if an HDMI device has audio, it is required to implement the baseline format: stereo (uncompressed) PCM. Other formats are optional, with HDMI allowing up to 8 channels of uncompressed audio at sample sizes of 16 bits, 20 bits, or 24 bits, with sample rates of 32 kHz, 44.1 kHz, 48 kHz, 88.2 kHz, 96 kHz, 176.4 kHz, or 192 kHz.[5]: §7  HDMI also carries any IEC 61937-compliant compressed audio stream, such as Dolby Digital and DTS, and up to 8 channels of one-bit DSD audio (used on Super Audio CDs) at rates up to four times that of Super Audio CD.[5]: §7  With version 1.3, HDMI allows lossless compressed audio streams Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio.[5]: §7  As with the Y′CBCR video, audio capability is optional. Audio return channel (ARC) is a feature introduced in the HDMI 1.4 standard.[41] "Return" refers to the case where the audio comes from the TV and can be sent "upstream" to the AV receiver using the HDMI cable connected to the AV receiver.[41] An example given on the HDMI website is that a TV that directly receives a terrestrial/satellite broadcast, or has a video source built in, sends the audio "upstream" to the AV receiver.[41]

Taken from here (click me)

And for Spdif:

S/PDIF is based on the AES3 interconnect standard.[3] S/PDIF can carry two channels of uncompressed PCM audio or compressed 5.1/7.1 surround sound (such as DTS audio codec); it cannot support lossless surround formats that require greater bandwidth.[4]

Taken from here

And this site here breaks it down even further, and what games that are out there that do true 5/7.s PC surround sound going from ur Spdif optical, or HDMI (click me) other then that, to get true PC GAMES to play in TRUE surround sound it must be either Analog or Game supports sending the codec UNCOMPRESSED through HDMI. For consoles this is no big deal at all, but a PC, its a PITA to get just "one cable to rule them all" for ALL have pros and cons, I am just trying to metion, if ur going to use even a cheap receiver, or a high dollar one, make sure it has ANALOG IN, not OUT in the back of it, and run a Optical, and the analog and then call that a day, if in the end run all you want it basic better then tv sound, for it can really take off down the rabbit hole very quickly when you find out what all this crap can really do if you take the time, and hook it all up right for YOUR situation(s)

Another Quality book written, and un edited by, funboy


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## Ferather (Nov 12, 2021)

@funboy6942, that's the 1983 standard, not the current standard: https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/spdif-sony-philips-digital-interface.288767/
Don't worry, this mis-information has been going around for a while, even wikipedia contradicts its self, if you look closely.


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## funboy6942 (Nov 13, 2021)

I will have to look into this for I guess I need some reedumacations in it  I have never really liked SPDIF back in the day unless I was playing a movie from Laser Disc or DVD, and for about 99% of the time any movies/music/or games played off my PC has been analog only, so even if they changed how the SPDIF aspect of how it decodes from back then, yeah I wouldn't of known it got switched. But I will stand firm that if someone were to just play a game using SPDIF or HDMI that in the audio section only allows you to change volume levels, nothing about compression (tv, sound bar, home theater, night, 5.1, 7.1 in PC GAMES NOT CONSOLE), and switched from that to analog if your receiver, if using one, has the inputs for it, I can tell you just using the new Crash Bandicoot game that just came out, sound definition and separation is night and day. Not so much as me, but my son and of all people my wife who is happy with a AM radio if need be for music for it all sounds the same to her, can actually hear the differences. This works with all pc games with that in the menu as mentioned or not, just going Analog again will have you go hmmm and rethink about all that money you have wrapped up in ur system trying to get perfect sound to match that perfect picture the way it was intended, and no DD live and stuff is NOT the same thing, not even close (IMHO to my ears and I do not use crap to play my stuff with or on).

On another note, I know its long but worth the read (again imo) I have been fighting myself with some games on windows 11 to crash, Forza 5 and a old game which is BioShock remastered so far after redoing my room where I am now at, getting my equipment out of the old room and into here, and now got my Hisense tv hooked to my audio card, and using the 6700XT as my audio source to my tv so when I do not feel like using my Marantz I have some good Altec Lansing speakers to use in place of my tv, but not sure if you or anyone else there is having this problem, but felt what I have found fighting windows 11 new install, some games new and old, and using the 6700xt audio vs using my creative x3 going to my Marantz receiver. I was just about to say f it all to windows 11, for I been going nuts since getting my tv in here so I can read text again, and playing some games.

The problem I been having so far with Forza 5 is the game would start, but start in the background, with a tab in the taskbar showing the game is running, and same really goes or Bioshock, starts the same way, in the background. The VERY moment I click on the icon or full size (BioShock) out of window mode and into full screen, my game goes away and locks up, windows explorer flashes, all desktop and taskbar icons go away and come back, but now either of the games, they have icons in the taskbar, but do nothing but allow me to right click and close windows and for the most part it just quits. Sometimes I have to go into task manager and kill it for it says not not responding.

Before forza would just die on booting game. If I select the desktop ico, and not xbox app, right clicking, run as admin, the game will then not crash. but do then like bioshock and wrote above. I actually got it to run yesterday and was sooooo happy, thought I figured it out. I also found out after fixing that problem and NEW Forza 5 problem came up telling me my profile attached to the game was no longer and coudnt be used to play that game. After more hours of messing around found if I make a new MS outlook email when I signed out and asked to use my original I been using for decades, decided to just make a new MS outlook email, and it worked, and after I signed out of the new email, and signed back in with my original one, it loaded up and played NP even had the save from when my son and I was playing it through my laptop browser while we waited for my pc to install it.

My son and I yesterday wanted to do some old school modern game and tried to fire up BioShock remastered, and well, it was doing above and last night I wanted to get some racing in before bed and it started crashing in full screen all over again with Forza. They both will run fine, audio is working, can here it all load up but no matter how long I let them run for in the background and feel its got to be ok now, its been running for a long time, and click on the icon, and bam, lock up, explorer restarts, no more game, audio from said game that was just playing in the background, dead, and at that point I was pissed and decided this morning when I get I up I am just going to redo my pc with windows 10 again and let 11 bake a little longer.

I was sitting here chilling, waiting for MS to make me a flash drive with 10 on it since my other had 11, and fired up my Marantz, selected my X3, and was listening to music, when it got done and decided to try and see if there was anything at all out there I was missing I have not seen or tried before I redo my pc, but the main thing up to this point, I been playing all my games on a much smaller monitor while my son been doing up my new room for me, using my X3 going to my vintage Sony set up. but for craps and giggles fired up Forza, and worked perfectly again. I decided wth, the internet guy just left putting in a new fiber box due to my other acting up, and since I been working on pc/cars/rc cars and trucks for well over 30 years (not combined) thought of all the crazy crap I had go down you would never think in a million years that would of caused a problem and did anyway, but said before I redo all of this all over again with windows 10 this time and tried it anyway, and DAMNIT IT WORKED full screen and all. *wait for it *

Got into the menu of bioshock, switched from wind to full screen, 4k everything on to the max, and played the game, and was like wtf, I did nothing different but went to bed, got up, moved files around off the ssd since I was going to be redoing it, and ONLY thing different was new internet fiber box. *WAIT FOR IT!

Since my son hooked a heater up in my room near my Marantz, the sub is no longer coming on, and I wanted the boom boom. I stopped the game, switched over the audio selection to AMD_Hisense so it will come out my speakers I hooked up to the tv's headphone jack, fired up the game and................CRASH!!!!!!! Fired up Forza 5 and CRASH!!!!! This was with using the old 10/21 and 11/21 optional AMD driver for my 6700xt. AND YES, I been doing this for a VERY long time, so all my drivers are up to date, all gaming software is up to date, all EVEYTHING is up to date and using the windows 11 drivers only, and when I switched back to my X3 and Marantz, they worked perfect, switched back over to AMD and using my tv, even switched it from DP to HDMI and tried several different DP and HDMI cables cheap and high dollar with NO change at all, crashes all the time all over agin till I select ANYTHING BUT AMD from the list. And YES I have configured it and set up its properties to make sure nothing in there is causing a issue like between bitrate/HRZ and my tv trying to play it, but since all BUT games seem to work with AMD selected, I can only at this point assume it has to do with AMD's audio driver and windows 11 not liking each other. But shut them down, switch to AMD for audio and select my TV for the speakers, and those games crash all over again when ever they go from running in the background to clicking on icon in taskbar trying to run full screen. *

So far those have been the only 2 games I have tried so far after loading up windows, doing all the drivers, reinstalling Origin, GOG, steam the like trying to play them using the Audio from my AMD 6700XT.

So not too sure what the heck is going on here, but so far felt it warranted enough of my time in what I have found, and why it is Forza is crashing for soooooo many people, and now with bioshock doing it, but both run perfect if ANY other then AMD being used for audio, seems to only be effecting games I can tell, doesnt crash with music, surfing, or movies, just with games, and AMD as the audio souce/driver with windows 11. I plan on trying some other games ( I have almost 2K alone in Steam not counting all the others, I love Fanatical) and will post more game finding later today as I try them before I redo my pc later today or tomorrow with windows 10, for if it is the AMD driver, and its Audio software causing this crash to me, and millions of others, I really do not have ANY way to find a updated driver just for my Video cards audio.

So take with a grain of salt. Not sure if you or others are having this problem, but AMD and games using my video card as the audio source is a HUGE no go when trying to play a game. Any other audio selected but the AMD one, and games work perfectly fine (well aside of Forza and that error saying my liked account to the game is no more, but figured that out), but this one was killing me for days I been trying all I knew, and read, and was just about to give up, but had my son forgot to plug my sub in, and using my Marantz and 7.1 Analog to it, then Switching back over to my tv, and doing all I been fighting with for hours and days, never in a million years would of thought it came down really to the freaking AMD sound capabilities and windows 11 causing the crashes in those games so far, and have a feeling the list is about to get HUGE in a few hours 

*Sorry again for the book, but felt this was too important not to share my findings since the OP started off with saying his 6800xt and audio from it has been acting a fool, and not sure if he is running 10 or 11, but if 11, here is your fix. Dump 11, go back to 10, AMD audio driver will now work fine, and wait for 11 to bake for a bit more *
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Game edits:

Steam Games:
------------------

Bioshock Infinite-Gets into main menu, set game up, selected my saved game and went to load up my saved game after menu screen, said loading then.....CRASH! Selected then my Marantz and X3, plays just fine.
GRiD 2019-Does like Bioshock and Forza, but doesn't even make it to menu before it crashes windows explorer. Works fine with same tv and video going from my6700XT, but again Using my X3 plays just fine.
GRiD 2-OMG what a PITA this one was! Made it to where it says GRiD on the screen and LOCKED up my PC. No hitting windows key, trying to go into task, it was just stuck on the GRiD screen and ONLY way I got out of it was to Task manager hit restart. Switched again over to my X3 after reboot of system no crashes, plays fine.

Origin Game(s)
NFS HP2 Remastered-Just flat out crashed the moment you hit play. Nothing comes up, the App for Origin locks up and need to manually shut game down. Game after about 10 min actually popped up even after closing the app, but locked up right away and had to manually shut it down. With the X3, and you guessed it, not a single problem.
Peggle-Works just fine
Bejeweled Twist-Works just fine
Star Wars Fallen Order- crash/lock up 10 min after it decided to pop up saying it was running, but no icon in the taskbar for said game. Could not get the splash screen for the game to go away from/off desktop after crash and turning stuff off. Had to reboot my pc and on X3 as audio however it worked fine.

Epic-
Ghostbusters Remastered-works fine
GTA V works fine, but with a AMD 3600X/6700XT/AMD or not in windows 11 under 25fps???

I tried a few more games, that were not small games with same results every time. I have again over 2K in games on steam itself, and I, since unpaid to fix their problems (cannot get work anywhere do this of which I love to do because I have no degree but all I know is 100% self taught), so why should I sit here in pain, mental problems, disabled, pretty much broke 24/7 as they pay millions to people to fix this of which I did in about 48 hours time? It pisses me off to no end, for I cannot get a job doing this, which would accommodate my disability problems keeping from getting other jobs that pay for crap, but because I have no papers, people in these positions getting paid the big bucks to fix something like this, or was able to figure out and diag that this was the problem they are facing to work on a fix between AMD and MS getting paid the big buck with papers cannot even diag or do their job right, but I cannot even get the work doing their job for they have papers and I do not  Sad SAD Panda  

I think at this point after trying them, and others that if you use the AMD video Card as sound through HDMI cable and windows 11, they do NOT like each other at all no matter what updates or drivers, or anything you read on the googles is fixing this, and honestly had it not been for my son forgetting to plug my sub back in, never, EVER, would of thought this was the problem for me and man man many others out there having the same issues. Its something about digital sound and games only for everything else, including playing movies in dd/dts/dtshd/atmos using amd's sound for just games crashes/locks up windows explorer in windows 11.

*Little games with NO digital stuff in them to really decode, like peggle, has no effect, just larger well known games and AMD audio crashes the system, locks up my system, hangs my system, breaks my system with windows 11 for all these games with same tv, same video card, same audio selection on windows 10 all plays 110% just fine. And if this is a bug, and why everyone is having problems (not sure if nvidia is effected in same way), could I get the credit for this if it is what I say it is?

I am about to redo it back to 10 since till they fix this with a new driver, I canno wait for it and not get to play my games, for I already had the neighbors over complaining my bass was too much when using my Marantz during a week day, so I have no choice but to redo my system back to 10, for I use this in the morning or at night during a weekday, and it is a must now that my Hisense H8G is back with me in my new room, I cannot wait and sit here with no games to play, having to much time on my hands to let me think more on how much my life sucks ass. Need to keep my mind going 24/7 with no rest for bad things to come to mind, so no books from me for a little bit as I redo it all, and reinstall it all with windows 10 again. AMD and MS fix it!*


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## Ferather (Nov 14, 2021)

A friend of mine has an AMD GPU which I cant remember the model, he had issues with the EDID and driver, in his case supported encoded formats where not showing even though present in the EDID.
He could not send the missing formats. I sent him an edited version of the current AMD HDMI driver (he previously had some other AMD driver), then all formats showed and worked.

My point being, its possible the driver might not be working properly, or perhaps you could try my edited one (I just made it install on all AMD audio devices).
If you would like to try the edited AMD HDMI driver, let me know, and I will build a basic installer for it, as it needs to be signed.

----

@funboy6942, now you have read my SPDIF post, you can try the technology for yourself, that is, if your receiver actually supports the format(s) on SPDIF directly (not HDMI).

https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/how-to-send-test-lossless-hdmi-spdif.285233/


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## Mistral (Nov 15, 2021)

funboy6942 said:


> ... so just use ur speakers, ur amp, and stop wasting the time trying to get the 6800XT sound working till you get a better amp that can support the card or other sound cards better ...



Went oldscool, nuked windows and started fresh. All works fine now. As expected, it was a software problem.


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## Ferather (Nov 15, 2021)

Awesome to hear, yes that definitely happens.


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## blued (Jun 21, 2022)

I know old thread, but since related would like to ask if anyone knows if this is doable with a 6800xt I may buy. Currently have RTX 2080 and AV receiver. I plug the GPU directly to the TV and use another HDMI cable from the GPU to the receiver for audio only. Works great, no issues at all. Would this method also work well with a 6800xt? Thanks.


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## Mussels (Jun 26, 2022)

blued said:


> I know old thread, but since related would like to ask if anyone knows if this is doable with a 6800xt I may buy. Currently have RTX 2080 and AV receiver. I plug the GPU directly to the TV and use another HDMI cable from the GPU to the receiver for audio only. Works great, no issues at all. Would this method also work well with a 6800xt? Thanks.


If it works for you now, it will continue working for you.

I personally dislike it, because it requires having a second screen connected to the HDMI receiver - even if you physically dont have one, windows always sees it there
Unless your receiver supports the same resolutions and refresh rates as your TV, that's about the best you can do.

eARC might help, but that's the same problem of needing new hardware since every device would need to be HDMI 2.1


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## Chrispy_ (Jun 26, 2022)

Mistral said:


> So, here's what I have:
> <HISENSE image>


It's likely a Hisense causing the problem - I had this issue when I owned a Hisense at the same time as a 5700XT. I could have sworn it was an AMD issue because there were notes about it being fixed in some drivers, but then the issue also happened using the IGP on my 3770K at the time. After digging around a bit deeper I found a few threads here and there with the same symptoms and Hisense was the common denominator.

I gutted the HTPC and swapped everything except the case and the 5700XT, including the SSD which meant I had to do a fresh W10 install and never had the problem again, despite using the same GPU, drivers, and TV.

Ugh, thread necro. I wasn't paying attention to the dates.


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## eazen (Jun 28, 2022)

Mistral said:


> Went oldscool, nuked windows and started fresh. All works fine now. As expected, it was a software problem.


Next time just do a DDU driver delete instead of timey windows reinstall, unless you already did, will most likely achieve the same.


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## boomheadshot8 (Aug 9, 2022)

Yes home theater with windows is a pain in the ass, my gpu (1080) is plugged on my pionneer vsx-930 and plugged on my lg screen 27" (pc not TV)
Using vlc or plex to watch videos : dolby true hd works fine but it need little time to play sound, mostly using dd+ or dd sometime DTS


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## blued (Oct 23, 2022)

Mussels said:


> If it works for you now, it will continue working for you.
> 
> I personally dislike it, because it requires having a second screen connected to the HDMI receiver - even if you physically dont have one, windows always sees it there
> Unless your receiver supports the same resolutions and refresh rates as your TV, that's about the best you can do.
> ...


Sorry, late reply  ... actually that is not an issue. You can use an HDMI dummy plug (display emulator) thus not requiring a second display. Works great and is cheap.



			https://www.amazon.com/Headless-Display-Emulator-Headless-1920x1080-Generation/dp/B06XT1Z9TF


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## thewan (Oct 23, 2022)

Chiming in incase anyone still has problems getting surround audio out on their Windows HTPC.

Surround audio on Windows output to a receiver or soundbar is not hard, even with dolby atmos true hd or dts-hdma. Just use MPC-HC and change some of its default settings. I use it as it had the most consistent result. Every dolby atmos and dts-hdma track i played had no issues whatsoever on my soundbar that supports both. Im abit too lazy to configure VLC or MPV to achieve the same results and for some reason it is not consistent.

First you need to open your MPC-HC options. Go to Output. Under Audio Renderer, select MPC Audio Renderer.
Next go to Internal Filters. Click the Audio Decoder button. Under Bitstreaming, enable all the formats that your receiver or soundbar supports. My soundbar supported all of them so I enabled all of them.
Then go to Audio Renderer. Click the MPC Audio Renderer Settings button. Select your sound device as your HDMI out to your receiver/soundbar/TV if it is not your default sound output on Windows. Now change the WASAPI mode to Exclusive. Ensure the "Allow bit-exact output" is ticked/enabled. Make sure to press Ok/Apply to save your settings.

now you are good to go. Any playback done through MPC-HC will passthrough the audio directly to your soundbar or receiver. No conversion to PCM or any other processing is applied so you get the raw audio directly and shouldn't face issues like delays.


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## Mussels (Oct 24, 2022)

blued said:


> Sorry, late reply  ... actually that is not an issue. You can use an HDMI dummy plug (display emulator) thus not requiring a second display. Works great and is cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Headless-Display-Emulator-Headless-1920x1080-Generation/dp/B06XT1Z9TF


*windows* thinks you have a display, not that you need a working display

Somewhere for your mouse cursor to get stuck, or for programs to disappear to and become hard to recover
Something to raise your 2D idle GPU clocks, as well



thewan said:


> Chiming in incase anyone still has problems getting surround audio out on their Windows HTPC.
> 
> Surround audio on Windows output to a receiver or soundbar is not hard, even with dolby atmos true hd or dts-hdma. Just use MPC-HC and change some of its default settings. I use it as it had the most consistent result. Every dolby atmos and dts-hdma track i played had no issues whatsoever on my soundbar that supports both. Im abit too lazy to configure VLC or MPV to achieve the same results and for some reason it is not consistent.
> 
> ...


bitstreaming is audio passthrough - this sends pre-encoded audio to the sound system directly


Unfortunately this wont help for PCM audio that isn't in those formats already, such as gaming and youtube, MP3s etc


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## AsRock (Oct 24, 2022)

I take it your using the Sony X90J with it ?, if so and if the 6800XT has 2 HDMI ports ? you could just plug on going to the TV and the other to the AV but i think it only has one yes ?.

How i do mine is to use the DP ( main display ) and HDMI port ( AV receiver). And if your using a ROKU or a like too come from the AV to the Monitor and would have to change which to display if not automatic.

Umm i don't remember the 475 having atmos.

Could check windows settings to that can default to 2 speakers some times.


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## Athlonite (Oct 24, 2022)

WOW 2 pages of the most unnecessary twaddle
Just throw an HDMI cable into the RX6800XT and run it into the back of the receiver problem solved

this is exactly what I do so I know it works perfectly fine for any audio track from stereo to DTS, DD+, Atmos with MPC-HC as the player


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## boomheadshot8 (Oct 24, 2022)

blued said:


> Sorry, late reply  ... actually that is not an issue. You can use an HDMI dummy plug (display emulator) thus not requiring a second display. Works great and is cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Headless-Display-Emulator-Headless-1920x1080-Generation/dp/B06XT1Z9TF



It's annoying because my DP output  is 1440p and Av receiver is 1080p so it's making game using 1080p max, i don't know why since I've got my 3070, games are working at 1440p.
Maybe because my Av is a bit old
But thanks for the tip


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## blued (Oct 24, 2022)

boomheadshot8 said:


> It's annoying because my DP output  is 1440p and Av receiver is 1080p so it's making game using 1080p max, i don't know why since I've got my 3070, games are working at 1440p.
> Maybe because my Av is a bit old
> But thanks for the tip


1- Plug your DP cable straight from GPU to monitor (bypassing receiver) for 1440p.
2- From HDMI output on GPU > receiver, that will take care of audio.
3- From receiver output, use dummy HDMI plug as mentioned above, OR you might be able to plug it into same monitor (with another HDMI cable) which should detect it as a 2nd display. Then select your 1440p screen as the main display. The "2nd display" will not be accessed, so it dosnt matter if it downscales to 1080.


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## boomheadshot8 (Nov 2, 2022)

blued said:


> 1- Plug your DP cable straight from GPU to monitor (bypassing receiver) for 1440p.
> 2- From HDMI output on GPU > receiver, that will take care of audio.
> 3- From receiver output, use dummy HDMI plug as mentioned above, OR you might be able to plug it into same monitor (with another HDMI cable) which should detect it as a 2nd display. Then select your 1440p screen as the main display. The "2nd display" will not be accessed, so it dosnt matter if it downscales to 1080.


Thanks : It's working but on some game it's 1080p default => weird


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## blued (Nov 2, 2022)

boomheadshot8 said:


> Thanks : It's working but on some game it's 1080p default => weird


Try this. Right click on desktop > display settings > scroll down to resolution to make sure its 1440p > Multiple displays > select show only on 1.

^ nah, dont do that ^. It will disconnect the audio as well. I guess best option is to just go for the display emulator for the HDMI out on your AV receiver (like I'm doing).



			https://www.amazon.com/Headless-Display-Emulator-Headless-1920x1080-Generation/dp/B06XT1Z9TF?tag=tec06d-20


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## Mussels (Nov 3, 2022)

You need to run "extended" which will have a ghost monitor 2

You cant duplicate, because that forces the same resolution and refresh on both displays


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## Athlonite (Nov 3, 2022)

If you don't run any cable from the AV to the monitor it shouldn't interfere with the monitors resolution
this exactly how I run
1: DP to monitor
2: HDMI to AV which should show up as an selectable audio device
all games run at their intended resolution and audio is played via the AV neither one interferes with the other because there's no cable between the AV and the monitor 






you shouldn't need to anything else but that


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## Mussels (Nov 3, 2022)

Athlonite said:


> *If you don't run any cable from the AV to the monitor it shouldn't interfere with the monitors resolution*
> this exactly how I run
> 1: DP to monitor
> 2: HDMI to AV which should show up as an selectable audio device
> ...


It does if you duplicate your displays

You end up with your receiver showing as a monitor, windows settings then control if thats an issue or not (and my big problem with HDMI audio, having a second/third low res low refresh random monitor windows could get stuck on)


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## Athlonite (Nov 3, 2022)

Mussels said:


> It does if you duplicate your displays
> 
> You end up with your receiver showing as a monitor, windows settings then control if thats an issue or not (and my big problem with HDMI audio, having a second/third low res low refresh random monitor windows could get stuck on)


Well just don't duplicate the screens there's no need to for just audio out via HDMI 
And I've never had that issue in the 2 years I've been running my audio over HDMI to my AV Receiver aslong as you don't start messing with settings for other monitors that show up via the AV HDMI detection you shouldn't have any problems


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## Mussels (Nov 3, 2022)

Athlonite said:


> Well just don't duplicate the screens there's no need to for just audio out via HDMI
> And I've never had that issue in the 2 years I've been running my audio over HDMI to my AV Receiver aslong as you don't start messing with settings for other monitors that show up via the AV HDMI detection you shouldn't have any problems


Missed the point
the previous guy had an issue with his resolution dropping and i'm explaining why that happened

If you dont duplicate you extend - and both have flaws

Duplicate matches resolution and refresh rate

Extend raises 2D clocks on most GPUs and gives a hidden monitor for programs to get stuck on, with no easy ways to lock it as seperate (But is generally a better option than cloning)


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