# Reattach the IHS from a Delid CPU



## Jetster (Apr 16, 2017)

So question. I'm not really a fan of Delidding a CPU but I got a good deal from a member here. I was looking at gluing the IHS back on. I did a little reading so I should use a little Black heat resistant silicone the best option? Of course after making sure the TIM is right.  Sound right?


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## Folterknecht (Apr 16, 2017)

No

You should clean the inside of the IHS and the DIE and use liquid metal instead of TIM (on both surfaces). That Black heat resistant silicone should be fine.


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## Kursah (Apr 16, 2017)

I glued my 4790K IHS back on with a thin layer of RTV silicone sealant. Worked great. Make sure you clean the IHS and PCB surfaces and again...use a thin layer of RTV. My temps are great and I don't gotta reseat again if I swap boards or whatever. 

I used CLU between CPU die and IHS. My already decently cool CPU lost around 10-15C. I got the CLU off of fleabay for $10-12. RTV was $3. Some razor blades for the delid...$1. 

Just be patient and you'll be fine.


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## silentbogo (Apr 16, 2017)

I've used a 2-component epoxy in the past, but it is harder to remove if you decide to delid it again in the future.


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## Jetster (Apr 16, 2017)

I kind of get that you don't need much silicone you don't want to make a gap causing the gap on the die.

And Folterknecht, sense TIM stands for Thermal interface material. Liquid Metal would be a TIM  But Im not worried about the process of apply or preparing the die just the reattachment of the IHS. I did look at the video and it seams like an awful lot of silicone. That's what ilm looking for thoughts about that.  

But is CLU Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra and Liquid Metal the same thing?


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## silentbogo (Apr 16, 2017)

Jetster said:


> I kind of get that you don't need much silicone you don't want to make a gap causing the gap on the die.


Same as epoxy, you need to put just a little around the perimeter of the heatspreader, and then leave it overnight under weight. Did it on a couple of GTX460s couple of years ago and it worked flawlessly.
I either use an old clothes iron, or a stack of books on top of a flat piece of plexi.



Jetster said:


> But is CLU Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra and Liquid Metal the same thing?


Unless you can get your hands on "Gallid GM-6" from Russia, then practically - yes...


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## Arctucas (Apr 17, 2017)

I bought the RockIt 88 de-lid/re-lid kit to use on my 6700K.

Used Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut to replace the OEM TIM.

After thoroughly cleaning the OEM sealant off both the IHS and PCB (I used my fingernails), I used a toothpick to apply a tiny dab of PermaTex black to each corner of the IHS, and clamped the IHS to the PCB with the re-lid jig for eight hours.


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## MrGenius (Apr 17, 2017)

silentbogo said:


> Unless you can get your hands on "Gallid GM-6" from Russia,


Which is what? I googled it out of curiousity and couldn't find anything.


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## biffzinker (Apr 17, 2017)

MrGenius said:


> Which is what? I googled it out of curiousity and couldn't find anything.









Found it on ebay but it's in Russian language.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gallid-Liqu...uid-Ultra-Pro-/172486356582?_ul=RU&rmvSB=true


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## silentbogo (Apr 17, 2017)

MrGenius said:


> Which is what? I googled it out of curiousity and couldn't find anything.


You need to google "Галлид ЖМ-6"
It's a much cheaper russian equivalent of CLU. Used to be abundant in Eastern Europe (and there were a lot more international eBay sellers), but now it is harder and harder to find (either the company is closed, or something else happened).
Old specs listed it at 34W/mK (vs speculated 38-40W/mK for Ultra, but it's hard to compare when Coollaboratory does not list specs for either of their products on the website). Chemical composition of TIM were also available: no proprietary mumbo-jumbo, no vague specifications.


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## Jetster (Apr 19, 2017)

I reattached it 
I used red heat resistant silicone, the only heat resistant one I could find
I only put a small dab on the corners 
I learned something in the process, you can use the clam shell to get it lined up perfectly 
Then I used the end of a 8 lb dumb bell to put pressure on it. 
After about 20 min I went ahead and clamped it in the motherboard and it works great


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## GorbazTheDragon (Apr 19, 2017)

You mean the packaging thing intel ships it with? Or the one on the CPU socket. AFAIK using the socket and hold down bracket is the only way to properly align the delidded IHS.. At least it's the only way I've tried.

Honestly would just have left it delidded, I barely take the cooler off once a year, let alone remove the CPU from the socket, so all the dangerous bits are over (with a slight scratch on the substrate being the only mark)


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## FireFox (Apr 19, 2017)

silentbogo said:


> Галлид ЖМ-6"


 
I don't trust, maybe they send you uranium instead


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## OneMoar (Apr 19, 2017)

I would use black RTV to reattach it looks like factory and is easier to remove

id clean it CLU it,rtv it and put the ihs on and clamp it
don't use super-glue super glue is well super and also works by melting the pcb a little


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## Jetster (Apr 19, 2017)

They didn't have black but I use so little you can't see it anyway. It looks good, works great. I ran prime95 stock and it only hit 50c so i think I'm good to go


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