# When the Power button is Pressed Pc turns on then Off again.



## Virus-j (Dec 10, 2015)

Hi all,

Need some help, Recently for past month id say iv been having this weird problem on with my main rig, Iv been searching the net trying to find answers or different things to try but nothing is working.

Pretty much as the title said, When i press the Power button the pc starts to turn on, But then it instantly just switches off... But the weird thing is when i press the power button again it boots up normally and i have no problems at all with the pc everything is running fine. Nothing major just be nice if i pressed the button first time it would boot up normally. As i said it was fine till a month ago and this problem just started.

I took the Pc apart about 3 days, Rebuilt it cleaned everything. Replace the Cmos, reset the bios settings. Not sure what else to try ? 

Thanks


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## thebluebumblebee (Dec 10, 2015)

(educated guess) It's either the PSU sensing something wrong and protecting its self, or it's the PSU its self.


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## CAPSLOCKSTUCK (Dec 10, 2015)

My initial thought would be dust or damp within the switch itself.
It used to be a common problem with analogue equipment especoally volume and switch controls 
Unplug from wall press switch repeatedly and try again before stripping down pc.
It could simply be weather change related.


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## Disparia (Dec 10, 2015)

thebluebumblebee said:


> (educated guess) It's either the PSU sensing something wrong and protecting its self, or it's the PSU its self.



Yeah, I agree. Visually inspect the power supply as best as you can for capacitors that look like they may be about to rupture.

Of course, checking the power switch is an easy enough process too. Compressed air in the switch as well as a visual inspection along with trying to boot the board using another switch or if you're comfortable with it, an electrically conductive object (most of the time I use the tip of my screwdriver).


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## Virus-j (Dec 10, 2015)

I forgot to say i cleaned everything with compressed Air when i took apart the pc, I use the compressed air all around the PSU too. The dust has pretty much all gone now.
I will take a look at the power supply and check it properly for any problems,

What you said here made me think "It could simply be weather change related" As iv noticed that it only does this when it's been switched off for a long period of time.  I know if i turn it off now and on again it will be fine. But when i go to sleep and turn it on in the morn it just turns off first time you pres the button.

Edit : Just had a look inside PSU was dusty inside but now cleaned, Componenets seem fine cant see anything wrong. Checked all the cables again too. Went to boot up pc but done it's usual wont boot on first press of the button. 

I just changed the 3Pin Plug over too now, also put in a different plug socket. Have to see if that helps....


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## Bill_Bright (Dec 10, 2015)

Virus-j said:


> I will take a look at the power supply and check it properly for any problems,
> 
> What you said here made me think "It could simply be weather change related"


Understand that "normal" users cannot conclusively verify a PSU is good. That takes specialized test equipment to put the supply under a variety of realistic loads and then measure not just for voltages within allowed tolerances, but proper regulation and ripple suppression too. This cannot be done with a multimeter alone. So for normal users, this means swapping in a known good PSU and see if the problem persists.

As for weather, that will not affect properly working electronics - assuming you don't live in a tropical rain forest with no air conditioning. Even if you allow the temperature of your house to get cold at night during the winter, that will not affect properly working electronics - assuming we are not talking sub-zero temps.

Cold can, however, adversely affect batteries. But this is not a notebook and you replaced the CMOS battery (though a bad CMOS battery would not cause this symptom). Cold can also affect loose connections. As the matter cools and contracts, the contacts in the connection move further apart. As the matter warms and expands, solid contact is made again. So make sure all power and data connections are tight and secure and your RAM is fully seated as well. This is also a symptom of a poor or damaged solder joint - but not much you can do about that unless you have a good soldering pencil and know what you are doing. But even then, you cannot reach all the solder joints.

Motors can be affected by cold too. This is typically apparent with older motors as the lubricants break down and bearings wear unevenly. If this were a drive motor problem, you would be seeing drive or no OS errors. If the CPU fan motor is failing, the BIOS will sense (or rather not sense) the fan and immediately shut down!

All motors get weaker as they age. And when lubricants begin to break down, they become less viscus. And when lubricants get cold, they tend to harden a little bit. Depending on how the bearings "settle" when the motor is turned off, the lubricant can get a little tacky - enough that an aging, weaken motor cannot immediately break loose, or cannot get up to speed fast enough until the lubricant warms a little. 

Often with motors (and fans especially where you have access to the blades) you can give them a little flick with your finger to give them a kick start and they will spin up. Applying power the first time may just give the motor a "nudge" so the next power up is enough to let it spin.

While these are typically symptoms of older motors, brand new motors can have flawed bearings or other manufacturing defects too that prematurely age the motor. So you might want to look at your CPU fan too.


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## trog100 (Dec 11, 2015)

my (very old since retired ) daily use machine did that a while back.. i turned it on it bleeped and switched off.. i was daft enough to repeat the process about ten times before taking the case side off.. it turned out my cpu heat sink was falling off... 

the crappy intel style plastic push pins had failed.. mind you it did take around eight years.. to happen.. and believe it or not when i popped the original unused intel stock heatsink back on the chip still worked..

but reluctant cold boots i always take as a general sign that motherboard things are ageing and near the end of their useful life.. more so when it happens every time..

with the machine i just mentioned it happened on regular basis i used to use sleep mode because of it.. the reluctant first start up became annoying.. but the machine was pretty old i cant really complain..

trog


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## 95Viper (Dec 11, 2015)

Just some personal experiences...
I had a Gigabyte board that did the same thing when the PSU was on it way out.
Usually, with memory, it would shutdown, then, reboot and change the timings to default; and when I went to the bios setup, it would tell me the OC was reset due to a problem.


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## Virus-j (Dec 11, 2015)

Thanks everyone for the help. Sadly it's still playing up. It seemed ok when i replaced the power chord and stuck it in a different socket. But turned it on Just now and it's still doing it.



Bill_Bright said:


> Understand that "normal" users cannot conclusively verify a PSU is good. That takes specialized test equipment to put the supply under a variety of realistic loads and then measure not just for voltages within allowed tolerances, but proper regulation and ripple suppression too. This cannot be done with a multimeter alone. So for normal users, this means swapping in a known good PSU and see if the problem persists.
> 
> As for weather, that will not affect properly working electronics - assuming you don't live in a tropical rain forest with no air conditioning. Even if you allow the temperature of your house to get cold at night during the winter, that will not affect properly working electronics - assuming we are not talking sub-zero temps.
> 
> ...



Lol, Wish i did live in a troopical Rain forest, Freezing in this house. : ) I Replaced the CMOS about a year ago for some reason it wasnt saving the Bios Settings so replaced it and it was fine so i assumed it went bad again. Wish it was that though quick fix. Also what you said about the fans ,would this apply to all the fans or Just the CPU Fan ? 

Im going to Try a different PSU tomorrow, problem i have is i only have a cheapy 550w Psu in my 2nd rig that is currently Running a X3 445 and 4870 Think it would be able to run my Main Rig ok just to test it ? If it is the PSU i will buy a new one anyway so wouldn't be permanent.

Thanks


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## thebluebumblebee (Dec 11, 2015)

Virus-j said:


> Freezing in this house


When the system is cold, watch the fans when you try to power it up, especially the CPU fan.  If it fails to spin up initially, but then spins up when you try again, that may very well be your culprit.


Virus-j said:


> Im going to Try a different PSU tomorrow, problem i have is i only have a cheapy 550w Psu in my 2nd rig that is currently Running a X3 445 and 4870 Think it would be able to run my Main Rig ok just to test it ?


The 4870 is a power hog in comparison to the 660.  You shouldn't have any problems.


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## Flow (Dec 11, 2015)

95Viper said:


> Just some personal experiences...
> I had a Gigabyte board that did the same thing when the PSU was on it way out.
> Usually, with memory, it would shutdown, then, reboot and change the timings to default; and when I went to the bios setup, it would tell me the OC was reset due to a problem.



Yes, check in windows all your settings from memory and graphic card. Stress your cpu and check the values, also run some mem tester and see what the timings and frequency of your ram does.
The symptoms op describe make me think of an overclock that just cuts it, or not. Nowadays motherboards can deal with that, but older boards can do just what you are experiencing, an unsuspected reboot straight after a cold boot.

Anyway, your psu is most likely the culprit since when you power on your pc it will draw the most power. The needed reboot could just be the psu already getting warmed up and be ok the second try.
I see in your specs it's a CX psu, which aren't the best ones.


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## Virus-j (Dec 11, 2015)

I got rid of my overclock on my ram and cpu when this started, So my 1055t is back to 2.8Ghz and my Ram is back at 1600Mhz. Im thinking about running a stress test with prime just to see what it does. Ill do a memory test also to make sure that is ok. My sabertooth motherboard now must be 4-5 years old id say, My Powersupply must be about the same age i think... Not sure.



Flow said:


> Yes, check in windows all your settings from memory and graphic card. Stress your cpu and check the values, also run some mem tester and see what the timings and frequency of your ram does.
> The symptoms op describe make me think of an overclock that just cuts it, or not. Nowadays motherboards can deal with that, but older boards can do just what you are experiencing, an unsuspected reboot straight after a cold boot.
> 
> Anyway, your psu is most likely the culprit since when you power on your pc it will draw the most power. The needed reboot could just be the psu already getting warmed up and be ok the second try.
> I see in your specs it's a CX psu, which aren't the best ones.



Funny enough about a hour ago i was reading up on the CX Psu as i was taking a look to see what i could replace it with... I was going to go for a CX again seeing as it's lasted so long, But from what i have been reading about it... ill give it a miss.
If it is the PSU and i do replace it im looking at getting a XFX TS 550W Gold, So long as that is enough for my Rig. Either that or something else not sure what though...


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## Athlon2K15 (Dec 12, 2015)

My MSI X99 does this at times too, not a big deal i doubt anything major is wrong with your PC.


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## newconroer (Dec 12, 2015)

I experienced this due to a faulty or loose connection with the wiring at the point where it's soldered onto the back side of the button. The wires were touching themselves (in an appropriate way) and were causing intermittent shorts. 

Probably not the situation here - I just had to share my story though.


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## Virus-j (Dec 12, 2015)

AthlonX2 said:


> My MSI X99 does this at times too, not a big deal i doubt anything major is wrong with your PC.



Tbh, it still starts which is good...lol. Just annoying mostly, Especially when you walk out the room after pressing it expecting it to be on when you go in the room....lol. Cant see why it started doing it.... 
I put the power supply in from my 2nd rig in anyway, It's still doing it... First time too.... (On a plus note this Cheap power supply is alot more quiet than my CX)
Iv checked the Fans too, cant see anything abnormal they seem to start up straight away, seem to spin up fine. I Suppose the only thing left is the motherboard or Ram. I will test the ram tomorrow.


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## xvi (Dec 12, 2015)

Well, with a new PSU, I'd say the next most likely is a heat issue. Did we confirm the CPU cooler is on solid?


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## Virus-j (Dec 13, 2015)

Just update, Turned Pc on this morning with the New PSU, Same problem.. Just wont start first time i press the button it seems to get to the windows logo then just completely cuts off.
Checked the CPU Cooler earlier, Tightened up the screw on the CPU cooler. I checked the temperatures CPU too seem to be 20-30c Idle. Case Temp roughly 35c.


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## Jetster (Dec 13, 2015)

Short in case, memory, bad sector on the drive. Test them

You test a PSU by running it in another system. Test the hard drive by running crystal disk or manufactures test program. test the short theory by running the system outside of the case. And test the memory by using memtest or swamping it with another set


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## Iceni (Dec 13, 2015)

Power on switch sounds to have a fault. Sometimes when they start to go the contact plates can stick when you press the button.

Unplug the power switch header, And plug the reset switch into the power on header. Then start again using the reset switch as the on button. If it clears the fault then it's time to buy a new switch (or just keep using the reset switch).

Don't be tempted to plug the power switch into the reset header as it may cause constant resets if it is the fault.

The later in boot restarts could still be the switch, It depends on the switch and what's wrong with it. If there is a loose contact plate then movement on that plate could cause soft restarts in windows, or hard restarts before windows has got up. Rule out the basic before you spend money.


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## trog100 (Dec 13, 2015)

sometimes the odd (failing) electrical component needs a little heat to work.. i think this is your problem.. the first attempt at booting provides that heat.. the second or third attempt keeps going.. once running the needed heat is always there.. until the next cold boot after being off for while..

such things aint that uncommon.. the component is likely to be on your motherboard.. purely because that is where most of them are.. 

i said earlier on in the thread i see such things as a component on the way out.. i think that component is your motherboard.. about the only part you cant actually test..

trog


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## Iceni (Dec 13, 2015)

trog100 said:


> sometimes the odd (failing) electrical component needs a little heat to work.



This should never be the case. If you need heat to make it work you have dry joints or another mechanical failure. And both of these faults in the wrong place on a circuit can be dangerous to the circuit and any other hardware on it.


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## CAPSLOCKSTUCK (Dec 13, 2015)

one of these is 0.99 p, you can eliminate the switch being the problem, and not remove a single component. 







the UK weather has been damp and cold recently......save youself  a big hassle, spend 99 pence, it will come in handy for future builds anyway.

start simple and cheap.


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## Mussels (Dec 13, 2015)

leave it alone for about 10 seconds, see if it powers back on itself. If so, its just a BIOS thing to boot at 'stable' settings before trying your "oc" settings. common annoying feature for a very long time on giga and asus boards (possibly others)


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## 95Viper (Dec 13, 2015)

Virus-j said:


> Same problem.. Just wont start first time i press the button it seems to get to the windows logo then just completely cuts off.



Uhm, this is two different things.
In your title and opening post you state that it starts and shuts down... now in this post quoted you state it is doing the same thing again and it gets to the windows logo and completely cuts off.

If it is getting to the windows logo then cuts off... I would guess software, driver, or windows is running into an error it can't fix.

Try getting into the BIOS and doing a reset with defaults.

Try booting into safe mode... using the recovery usb you should have made; or, the Windows 10 install disc/usb stick

If that does not help, then, try disconnecting everything; but, the hard drives (or SSDs) needed to boot and try testing it.
Try disconnecting the mouse and keyboard; and, using another keyboard to test.   If it a usb keyboard, then, try disabling the "USB legacy" in the bios to test.

If all else fails try your install disk/usb drive and do a reinstall or refresh.

Try disabling fastboot, if you have enabled.

Just a guess, if all else fails, I would lean toward a heat problem.  I would check those temps under load... not just idle.


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## PCGamerDR (Dec 13, 2015)

CAPSLOCKSTUCK said:


> My initial thought would be dust or damp within the switch itself.





Iceni said:


> Power on switch sounds to have a fault. Sometimes when they start to go the contact plates can stick when you press the button.





CAPSLOCKSTUCK said:


> one of these is 0.99 p, you can eliminate the switch being the problem, and not remove a single component.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



+1, OP needs to try his power switch before he does anything else.


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## Pluffy (Dec 13, 2015)

Check your CPU. I once had a similar problem and my CPU fan was a little loose.


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## trog100 (Dec 13, 2015)

if its a consistent thing.. several goes or tries needed to get the system up and running from a cold start its a heat issue.. the failing component needs a little warm up before it works properly..  the failed attempts provide that initial heat or warm up the iffy component needs to work..

it all seems obvious to me and its not that uncommon.. the only problem is figuring out which part is the problem.. my guess is the motherboard.. but it could be the cpu or many other things.. in the end whatever component it is that is causing the problem will give up the ghost completely and the system wont boot at all..  

trog


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## Iceni (Dec 13, 2015)

trog100 said:


> if its a consistent thing.. several goes or tries needed to get the system up and running from a cold start its a heat issue.. the failing component needs a little warm up before it works properly.. the failed attempts provide that initial heat or warm up the iffy component needs to work..



If that's the case you might want to check the valves as well........ Hang on aren't PC's solid state electronics, Using transistors.

Sorry for the minor derailment, Lack of heat is not the problem, Solid state electronics work better when cold, Up to the point they fail to work and you'd need to be living in the Artic for that to happen.

Mashing a button and waiting for the 1 good boot, isn't adding heat, it's playing the laws of probability to allow a good boot past whatever the problem is.


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## Virus-j (Dec 13, 2015)

95Viper said:


> Uhm, this is two different things.
> In your title and opening post you state that it starts and shuts down... now in this post quoted you state it is doing the same thing again and it gets to the windows logo and completely cuts off.



Wanted to clarify on that, there is no time on this for when it cuts out it seems to be random. Yesterday got to the windows Logo started the pc today and it didn't even reach the bios screen just cut out straight away. Most the time it gets to the bios and cuts out.

Just bought the power switch thank you for that, i will give that ago see if that resolves the problem. Hopefully it will. Later on i will do a memory test and stress test and check temperatures. 
Cpu fan is definitely screwed on tight, To be honest i might even just reinstall windows too as that has been playing up latelty wondering if it might be related ? Keeps on freezing now and then and if im on a game/Program it seems to just minimize what im doing and takes me to desktop.


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## Iceni (Dec 13, 2015)

Virus-j said:


> Keeps on freezing now and then and if im on a game/Program



Random fails to power on and random freezing go hand in hand, It can't be the power switch in that case, As the PC would soft shut-down rather than crash or hang a program.
It also can't be a failing fan as that wouldn't hang programs either it would hard restart, and possibly throw the PSU into safe mode.

It also can't be windows if it is happening in the POST.

I would look at the PSU and RAM.

Make sure you check the ram voltages, You might have 1.65v sticks running at 1.5v. Or they might be running at a timing that does not suit the 1055t.
You also have an over-clock running so remove that and set everything back to base clocks as it might be your CPU is suffering from some degradation due to a sustained over-clock. It happens over time and the 1055t is an old chip now they stopped making them in 2012 so it's at least 3 years old probably older.

You also need to work out if you have 2 problems or 1 combined problem. So firstly swap the power switch to the reset switch, (I posted how to do this earlier). Then reset the bios and start from scratch. And reinstalling windows is never a bad thing when problems start appearing, as it will rule out most viruses and conflicting programs.

Memory wise do you have any old sticks you can test in the machine. Capacity and speed doesn't matter. Just stick something else in and see if the problem goes away. I've had bad ram before that would randomly crash a pc. It wouldn't show a fault in memtest even on the full extended tests, but under-load it would fail. The problems with that machine just vanished when I tested the other ram in the machine, And a few years on the machine is still running without fault.


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## thebluebumblebee (Dec 13, 2015)

The power switch on today's computers is not like a light switch.  Once the system is on, it has NOTHING to do with the system's operation.  IIRC, the functions of the power switch (as well as the reset switch) are turned into software signals by the motherboard - similar to using the Start icon on the desktop.  Quit looking at the power switch.
The problems you are having with your OS are caused by hardware problems, not the other way around.
You are most likely having problems with RAM, motherboard, PSU or maybe even a HDD.  There's also the possibility that some peripheral is causing the problem.  Anything different USB wise?


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## trog100 (Dec 13, 2015)

Iceni said:


> If that's the case you might want to check the valves as well........ Hang on aren't PC's solid state electronics, Using transistors.
> 
> Sorry for the minor derailment, Lack of heat is not the problem, Solid state electronics work better when cold, Up to the point they fail to work and you'd need to be living in the Artic for that to happen.
> 
> Mashing a button and waiting for the 1 good boot, isn't adding heat, it's playing the laws of probability to allow a good boot past whatever the problem is.



you are wrong in thinking that defective solid state components dont sometimes need a little heat to work properly.. things expand and things contract with heat even solid state components.. a PC is loaded with things that can be affecting in such a way..

your theory might be correct but you reality aint.. so stop taking the piss.. he he

trog


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## Virus-j (Dec 13, 2015)

I have purchased the Power Switch anyway just to try it... for £2 it's worth a try. Im more thinking it is a hardware problem. Im doing a Stress test now so far it's been going on for about a 2 hours now. My Overclock has completly gone and haven't had the overclock that is in my System Specs on for about a year now (need to change that) I will check the Hard drives and do a test on them, My SSD is pretty new about 2 months old. will do a memory test ina minute. I assumed that now i put the PSU from my 2nd rig into this pc and that it's still doing this the PSU not the problem now, Or still possible ? Another problem, Pc been left on all day while i have been out. Turned it off so i could do into bios and check that before i did stress test. Cut out Straight away when i tried to turn pc back on, usually it only does this if the pc has been left off for a good couple of hours.

I checked out the Bios Earlier too, Ram is at 1600Mhz, 1.65v Cant seem to find the timmings for my memory will try find it on google, At the moment they are 9-9-9-24



thebluebumblebee said:


> Anything different USB wise?



After reading this, I decided to remove my Mouse and Ipod touch and Phone from the PC, The Mouse has been taken out now as i had some problems with that a while ago before this started and recently i plugged it back in the pc... When you turned on the PC it never seemed to work or turn on i guess. So i plugged it into my Monitor which luckily had usb ports and it was fine after that. Since then that monitor died so it went back into the computer, fine it's not doing it now but thought id better remove that for time being.

Thank for everyones help with this, I cant seem to figure this out : )


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## OneMoar (Dec 13, 2015)

psu +12v is a touch on the low-side but within spec .... still I would try another power supply sometimes when the caps get old they get a bit flanky
edit CX series psu yea..... id bet that'd be the culprit


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## Virus-j (Dec 14, 2015)

OneMoar said:


> psu +12v is a touch on the low-side but within spec .... still I would try another power supply sometimes when the caps get old they get a bit flanky
> edit CX series psu yea..... id bet that'd be the culprit



Lol, Everyone seems to hate the CX from what i was reading on other forums about it, wish i never bought it after what iv seen. 
Even though i tried another PSU though surely it still cant be the CX ? The PSU i used from my 2nd Rig is like a said a cheapy and a lot older than my CX but it's running a 4870 for years and i dont have this problem on the other Rig.


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## OneMoar (Dec 14, 2015)

Virus-j said:


> Lol, Everyone seems to hate the CX from what i was reading on other forums about it, wish i never bought it after what iv seen.
> Even though i tried another PSU though surely it still cant be the CX ? The PSU i used from my 2nd Rig is like a said a cheapy and a lot older than my CX but it's running a 4870 for years and i dont have this problem on the other Rig.


stability problems at load are usually power related


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## Virus-j (Dec 14, 2015)

Stability problems i can understand if my PSU is bad, but the Powering on Issue when i press the button and it cuts out not sure how that could be related in the sense that i tried another PSU that is working in another rig and it's doing it on that ?


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## xvi (Dec 14, 2015)

Virus-j said:


> Stability problems i can understand if my PSU is bad, but the Powering on Issue when i press the button and it cuts out not sure how that could be related in the sense that i tried another PSU that is working in another rig and it's doing it on that ?


Could be power delivery on the motherboard. Maybe bad heatsink contact on the VRMs?

Um, maybe try stock clocks and lowering CPU voltage? Try removing all but one stick of memory? I think all you can do is remove parts until it's fixed. If you reach bare minimum (motherboard, CPU, memory) and it still doesn't want to go, it's one of those three things.


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## PCGamerDR (Dec 14, 2015)

MY CX750m looking good after a year and a half xD...


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## Virus-j (Dec 14, 2015)

Well, I have now done memory Tests, Hard drive Test All are fine no errors. Removed the Hard drives, Re seated the CPU fan and still no luck. Could be motherboard or PSU then by looks of it. Hopefully not the Motherboard as that would be costly. If it is the motherboard i will probably just leave that as it is and live with it until or if it just decided to not turn on.

Tempted to replace the PSU see if that fixes it. Been looking at these, what would you suggest out of those two ? or any other you could recommend in around that price range.
http://www.scan.co.uk/products/650w...us-bronze-sli-crossfire-eps-12v-quiet-fan-atx

http://www.ebuyer.com/713453-seasonic-s12-ii-620w-80-bronze-certified-psu-jap-caps-12cm-ss-620gb


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## trog100 (Dec 15, 2015)

"Hopefully not the Motherboard as that would be costly. If it is the motherboard i will probably just leave that as it is and live with it until or if it just decided to not turn on."

###

its looking like your motherboard.. which was my guess in the first place..

you have already tried another psu and it still does it.. folks tend to be a bit weird with diagnostic logic.. they refuse to believe the obvious simply because its the most expensive part.. this kind of logic costs more money in the end..

you have two basic choices.. buy a new psu even though it dosnt really look to be the culprit or just leave it as it is until like i said earlier it refuses to boot at all.. 

my old PC often used to do it.. i left mine in sleep mode to avoid it.. i did a full reboot once every three or four days just to clear the memory..

trog


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## thebluebumblebee (Dec 15, 2015)

Virus-j said:


> Well, I have now done memory Tests, Hard drive Test All are fine no errors. Removed the Hard drives, Re seated the CPU fan and still no luck. Could be motherboard or PSU then by looks of it. Hopefully not the Motherboard as that would be costly. If it is the motherboard i will probably just leave that as it is and live with it until or if it just decided to not turn on.
> 
> Tempted to replace the PSU see if that fixes it. Been looking at these, what would you suggest out of those two ? or any other you could recommend in around that price range.
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/650w...us-bronze-sli-crossfire-eps-12v-quiet-fan-atx
> ...


Both PSU's are made by Seasonic.
That's a Saboertooth motherboard and has a 5 year warranty (over here any way).  You may be able to RMA it.
BTW, back to USB, make sure none of your case USB ports have been damaged.


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## Virus-j (Dec 15, 2015)

Just found my Reciept for my Sabertooth Bought April 2012 and YES! has 5 Year warranty. I will RMA it in January as dont fancy sending it before Xmas. Kinda Dissapointed in the Sabertooth seeing as in my 2nd rig i have a £40 5 year old motherboard but luck of the draw i guess. For the time being im going suggest what you said trog just leave it in sleep mode and not turn it off, Need the PC for work atm and id hate for it to just not turn on over Xmas.
I just checked the USB ports on the back and the Front Pannel, They look ok to me, no issues either they are all working.

I've been searching around about the Powersupplies, Seems that Seasonics are pretty good from what i have seen. Im still tempted to Replace PSU i shall admit, Mostly becuase i was planning to upgrade the PC in the new year with a FX8350 and Possibly a 960GTX also since i will RMA the Sabertooth i dont want any more problems especialy seeing as the CX is Junk.Would it be a good idea to Replace ?  Also I saw on Reviews that the XFX was also made by seasonic, Any difference though between the 2 ? Other than wattage ?


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