# [SOLVED] Corsair CX750M can't hold i7 4790K & 780 Ti playing The Witcher 3



## Saru (Jul 3, 2015)

Hi, folks.

First time here. I'm so glad to participate in this forum, I have so many friends who speak well of TechPowerUp, so I think I will solve my problem here.

Well, I have this rig:

CPU - i7 4790k
MOBO - GA-Z97X-SLI
GPU - GTX 780 Ti AMP ZOTAC
PSU - Corsair CX750M
RAM - 16 GB DDR3 1866 Mhz

And, recently my PC was getting imminent shutdown when I was playing The Witcher 3. So I noticed that there was a bit noise sound coming from PSU when I opened TW3, like a continuous cricket sound.

The temps are fine, the GPU is getting 70ºC and the CPU getting 50ºC playing The Witcher 3.

I was thinking that was the Turbo Boost that was putting the clock of my CPU at 4,39 Ghz, and putting my CX750M at your knees. I've turned off but it not resolved my problem.

I dont know how to call this, but its a forced reset that I get, I mean the PC shuts down and 1 or 2 seconds later it turns on automatically.

Problems like this is related to the PSU. So that is my question:

Is anything that I can do to resolve this problem without buying a new PSU or I have to buy the Corsair AX760 or the Seasonic SS-760XP? I'm gonna post a poll for this 

Thank you, guys, and sorry for my bad english.


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## Tatty_One (Jul 3, 2015)

Is the unit old?  I know the CX is a more budget orientated Corsair model but it has 62 amps I believe on a single rail and is Bronze rated which should be ample.


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## HWTactics (Jul 3, 2015)

Hi there Saru. 

CX750M can certainly handle your hardware.  If it's less than 3 years old, RMA is always an option.

GTX 780 Ti TDP: 250W
i7 4790K TDP: 88W
Everything else: ~100W
~450W max load

Some noise coming from the video card, motherboard VRM and power supply is normal.  Does the crash happen while you play any other games?  How about running stress tests?

I would try running Prime95 and FurMark at the same time to test CPU and GPU.  Let it run for an hour or so and see if it crashes or freezes up.


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## Saru (Jul 3, 2015)

Tatty_One said:


> Is the unit old?  I know the CX is a more budget orientated Corsair model but it has 62 amps I believe on a single rail and is Bronze rated which should be ample.



No, I bought the CX750M in September, 2015.

However, I live on Brazil, and I have only 9 months of warranty (contract) from the store and 3 months of warranty legal.



HWTactics said:


> Hi there Saru.
> 
> CX750M can certainly handle your hardware.  If it's less than 3 years old, RMA is always an option.
> 
> ...



Hi, HWTactics

Well, the sound come from the PSU. I'll try running this stress tests.

But, like I said, it's not a crash or freezing that happens playing The Witcher 3

It's like if a "ghost" puts his finger on the I/O, turning off the PC, and then he turns on. No stutterings, no BSOD, no signs of software problem (unfortunately).


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## Brusfantomet (Jul 3, 2015)

750 W and 62 amp should be good. for the RMA stuff, have you tried contacting corsair directly? They have a reputation of being helpful.

In my personal experience, their PSUs are NOT that good, but that is anecdotal experience. either way, i voted for the Sesonic module (even tho the AX series is built bu seasonic if memory serves)


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## Saru (Jul 3, 2015)

Oh, I forgot.

About playing other games, yes, like GTA V or Vindictus (raid)...


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## jboydgolfer (Jul 3, 2015)

Seasonic is Corsairs OEM, So your only getting a different warranty, and Bells and whistles when deciding between the two, unless they stop using Seasonic as they're OEM.

I find it strange that a working 750Corsair is having ANY issues with the build in the OP...It must need an RMA, because it certainly has what it takes to run that rig.

As for issues with the RMA, its the Manufacturer NOT the retailer who needs to be contacted... as long as You can provide proof of purchase, they will just begin the RMA process.


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## Saru (Jul 3, 2015)

Brusfantomet said:


> 750 W and 62 amp should be good. for the RMA stuff, have you tried contacting corsair directly? They have a reputation of being helpful.
> 
> In my personal experience, their PSUs are NOT that good, but that is anecdotal experience. either way, i voted for the Sesonic module (even tho the AX series is built bu seasonic if memory serves)



Hum, I'll try to contact them directly again.

Last time, they told me that they could'nt do anything, and said me to contact the store which I bought the CX750M.

hahaha

Well, I try running Prime95 and FurMark at the same time... and the PC survived only 10 seconds.

So, guys, do you think now its the PSU?


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## HWTactics (Jul 3, 2015)

Saru said:


> Well, I try running Prime95 and FurMark at the same time... and the PC survived only 10 seconds.




Do you have your video card or processor overclocked?  That's the first thing I would investigate.  Synthetic load is a lot more punishing on your hardware, so you may not have noticed the clocks were too high until now.


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## Brusfantomet (Jul 3, 2015)

Saru said:


> Hum, I'll try to contact them directly again.
> 
> Last time, they told me that they could'nt do anything, and said me to contact the store which I bought the CX750M.



It could be that they are trying to defer you to the Brazilian consumer laws (acording to your post they are not that good) it could be a gamble to say that the retailer you used have gone bust (that works in norway at least, then again, you are not resident in glorious socialist union of Scandinavia)


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## Saru (Jul 3, 2015)

HWTactics said:


> Do you have your video card or processor overclocked?  That's the first thing I would investigate.  Synthetic load is a lot more punishing on your hardware, so you may not have noticed the clocks were too high until now.



My CPU is at 4.0 Ghz. Well, its now, because I discovered that the Turbo Boost was on, putting at 4,39 Ghz. Now its turned off, and running at 4.0 Ghz

The GPU is the "GTX 780 Ti OC ZT-70506-10P" with 941 Mhz core clock, and boost clock with 1006 Mhz


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## 95Viper (Jul 3, 2015)

Don't know a lot about that particular PSU; however, if the fan in the PSU is temperature controlled... the chirping cricket sound could be from fan bearings drying out and the fan not spinning correctly for cooling the supply enough at high loads.

I would call the store and get it replaced; if you warranty is good from them still... or call corsair and tell them... somebody got your money and you deserve a working product.


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## Saru (Jul 3, 2015)

95Viper said:


> Don't know a lot about that particular PSU; however, if the fan in the PSU is temperature controlled... the chirping cricket sound could be from fan bearings drying out and the fan not spinning correctly for cooling the supply enough at high loads.
> 
> I would call the store and get it replaced; if you warranty is good from them still... or call corsair and tell them... somebody got your money and you deserve a working product.



I absolutely agree with you.

I will check in relation to periods of guarantee that I still have from the store I bought

However, the boxes, manuals and extra cables that PSU (and the other hardwares I have) I lost in a flood that has often in the city where I live (Blumenau / SC). This will not help me a lot in making the RMA


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## HWTactics (Jul 3, 2015)

Saru said:


> the boxes, manuals and extra cables that PSU (and the other hardwares I have) I lost in a flood



Shouldn't be a problem.  Manufacturers typically only want the failing part.  Also, the CX750M has got some pretty abysmal reviews.  I wouldn't be surprised at all if yours is defective.

_"there is absolutely no reason ANY user should buy a Corsair CX750 as you can get better performing, better built, and better supported products for about the same price or even for much less money"
_
After doing the other troubleshooting and not running any overclocked hardware, I think we've narrowed it down pretty well.


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## GreiverBlade (Jul 3, 2015)

HWTactics said:


> Shouldn't be a problem.  Manufacturers typically only want the failing part.  Also, the CX750M has got some pretty abysmal reviews.  I wouldn't be surprised at all if yours is defective.
> 
> _"there is absolutely no reason ANY user should buy a Corsair CX750 as you can get better performing, better built, and better supported products for about the same price or even for much less money"
> _
> After doing the other troubleshooting and not running any overclocked hardware, I think we've narrowed it down pretty well.


exactly what i did read ... before going for a Seasonic M12II 750w bronze Evo and i run a 4690K @4.5 and a 980 @1398/1978 and also i had a 700w from InWin (gold) that did hold quite good a pair of GTX580 Matrix Platinum @900/1050 and a Xeon E3-1275v2 (and did cost around a RM serie 550)

corsair for me it's just : a freaking no go when it come to PSU either they do budget and so-so quality or they do high end (sometime Seasonic oem) but with a crazy premium over the same unit from the OEM without Corsair branding.


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## newtekie1 (Jul 4, 2015)

HWTactics said:


> Shouldn't be a problem. Manufacturers typically only want the failing part. Also, the CX750M has got some pretty abysmal reviews. I wouldn't be surprised at all if yours is defective.
> 
> _"there is absolutely no reason ANY user should buy a Corsair CX750 as you can get better performing, better built, and better supported products for about the same price or even for much less money"
> _
> After doing the other troubleshooting and not running any overclocked hardware, I think we've narrowed it down pretty well.





GreiverBlade said:


> exactly what i did read ... before going for a Seasonic M12II 750w bronze Evo and i run a 4690K @4.5 and a 980 @1398/1978 and also i had a 700w from InWin (gold) that did hold quite good a pair of GTX580 Matrix Platinum @900/1050 and a Xeon E3-1275v2 (and did cost around a RM serie 550)
> 
> corsair for me it's just : a freaking no go when it come to PSU either they do budget and so-so quality or they do high end (sometime Seasonic oem) but with a crazy premium over the same unit from the OEM without Corsair branding.



Most of the reviews of the Corsair CX line, specifically the CX750M, don't say it is a terrible PSU, what they really say is it isn't the best PSU you an get for the price point.  Even the HardOCP review says:

"the build quality of the Corsair CX750 is generally good"

These units aren't perfect, and some cuts were obviously made to save on cost.  But they are still solid units.  The gripe the reviewers have is they are overpriced.  Well, price plays no factor here, because he already bought the PSU.

And my favorite view on this comes from JonnyGuru's Oklahomawolf, one of the best PSU reviewers ever:


			
				Oklahomawolf said:
			
		

> Here's my two cents... the original RM850 still gets way too much hate from these people. One little design flaw so minor that it affected exactly zero consumers, and suddenly Corsair is the devil to some and now the RM series is crap not worth buying. Granted, some of these people are still reasonable, not holding the company as a whole to the torch just because the RM or the CX series turned out to be below their personal standards of awesomeness. But for every one of the reasonable people, there's another one coming out of the woodwork with nonsense like, "oh, I'll never buy a Corsair again because the CX750M shuts down above 30 degrees and only crap units do that."
> 
> Folks, if you're one of these people, here's my personal opinion on the entire Corsair lineup, as I've seen things: some units they make are world class. Others just get the job done. *Exactly zero are pure crap. They're all decent.* You disagree? Well, perhaps you should re-acquaint yourselves with what _I_ consider to be pure crap. Take a look at this LPSW 350W unit. If that doesn't do it for you, check out this Bestec. Or this Hercules, still easily the worst unit I've ever personally tested. Ace Power anyone? What about the Coolmax ZX-500? You see what I mean? Every Corsair unit I've seen so far can either handle everything I throw at it or gracefully shuts down and bows out when it can't. Not one has died. Not. One. Ever. Crap units don't do that. Crap units fry your computer and/or burn your house down while you're sleeping in the next room.



Now, as for the OP's issue.  It could be the PSU, but I'm not convinced it is.  Just because everything is stock doesn't mean it is stable.  Also, Corsair power supply, as Oklahomawolf points out, shut down when there is a problem.  As in shut down complete, they are all designed this way, that is their protection circuitry.  Even in his test of the CX750M when he overheated it, the PSU just shut down.  I've never seen one shut down, then power itself back up a few seconds later.  And even in his overheat testing, he was still able to pull 600w+ out of the unit @40°C.  The OP's rig shouldn't be getting anywhere close to that.  But maybe the PSU is overheating, I'd be interested to know if the problem goes away if he opens his side panel on his case to give the PSU more airflow.  I'd also like to know what case he is using.  If it is a bottom mount PSU, then overheating shouldn't be a problem since the PSU is drawing in cool outside air constantly.  If it is a top mount PSU, then it is drawing in the hottest air possible, and maybe it is overheating in that case.


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## MrGenius (Jul 4, 2015)

They've also got the flattest efficiency curve in their class. That's why I bought mine. Sure glad the sales associate at Fry's pointed that out to me before I bought something of lesser quality.


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## GreiverBlade (Jul 4, 2015)

newtekie1 said:


> Most of the reviews of the Corsair CX line, specifically the CX750M, don't say it is a terrible PSU, what they really say is it isn't the best PSU you an get for the price point.  Even the HardOCP review says:
> 
> "the build quality of the Corsair CX750 is generally good"
> 
> ...


i didn't say they where bad but i did say they were "so-so" but on a general line: they always are overpriced for what they are ... when you could get a 700 80+ gold you get a RM550, even if my actual seasonic is a 750 80+ bronze, tho more closer to silver than bronze it's still cheaper than a RM750 and undoubtedly far more worth her price.

so it's still a freaking no go for me  tho i keep corsair in good esteem when it come to case (2nd hand most of the time ... otherwise as usual, a bit too high on the price ... tho the AIR540 pricing is not so bad ... i absolutely love it) and RAM cooler (even if it's a useless cosmetic gimmick most of the time, even with my Trident X @2448 )


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## damric (Jul 4, 2015)

I'll say it. CX is crap. OKW is a poser and John Geuro works for Corsair. They can take their equally crappy correspondance degrees and have a big circle jerk powered by CX for all I care.


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## newtekie1 (Jul 4, 2015)

GreiverBlade said:


> i didn't say they where bad but i did say they were "so-so" but on a general line: they always are overpriced for what they are ... when you could get a 700 80+ gold you get a RM550, even if my actual seasonic is a 750 80+ bronze, tho more closer to silver than bronze it's still cheaper than a RM750 and undoubtedly far more worth her price.
> 
> so it's still a freaking no go for me  tho i keep corsair in good esteem when it come to case (2nd hand most of the time ... otherwise as usual, a bit too high on the price ... tho the AIR540 pricing is not so bad ... i absolutely love it) and RAM cooler (even if it's a useless cosmetic gimmick most of the time, even with my Trident X @2448 )


And this isn't a thread about the value of Corsair units. The units are solid, that is all that matters here.


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## Norton (Jul 4, 2015)

That psu is good for tripping its overtemp circuit if it gets too hot. It did this while testing at jonnyGURU

See this page:

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story4&reid=416

If the psu is in a tight case or a hot room it's possible to trip the overtemp protection before hitting 650w. I had a CX430 in a rig that did this in the summer anytime I put a little too much of an overclock on the cpu (PII 965BE).

EDIT- looks like @newtekie1 already mentioned this review in his post....


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## Saru (Jul 4, 2015)

So guys... I think I will buy a new PSU.

My dad needs a PSU only to hold a GT210 and a i3 4330. He should be fine with my CX750M (With pseudo 750W ).

So, what PSU should I buy? The Seasonic on the poll? (Votes: 10 - Seasonic / 2 - Corsair). Or other one you guys recommend? other brand?


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## newtekie1 (Jul 4, 2015)

Get which ever is cheaper, I believe both use the same platform anyway.


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## MrGenius (Jul 4, 2015)

I love all the "I've had no experience as an owner of the product in question. But I read such and such written by so and so *ON THE INTERNET*. So by God it must be true."

LAUGH MY EFFING ASS OFF!!!

Nope. Not once. Not ever. Nor will there ever be a time when I look to a product review on the internet to guide me in my choice of purchasing ANY product of ANY type. Grow a brain and try thinking for yourself sometime.


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## zo0lykas (Jul 4, 2015)

my opinion, and experience telling me problem is in BIOS, bad setup for cpu temp and he's just shut down it, try turn it off or increase temp





Saru said:


> Hi, folks.
> 
> First time here. I'm so glad to participate in this forum, I have so many friends who speak well of TechPowerUp, so I think I will solve my problem here.
> 
> ...


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## revin (Jul 4, 2015)

I've been usig the 1st version of the SS 750 Gold model, 24/7 for few years now, and it's flawless !!


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## 95Viper (Jul 4, 2015)

As an after thought... check and make sure that the fan screen (filter, if it has one on the case) is clear and dust free.
And, if it is bottom mount, drawing external air... be sure it has clearance to draw air.


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## Hood (Jul 4, 2015)

Saru said:


> No, I bought the CX750M in September, 2015.


Running a time machine off your rig is bound to cause PSU problems...too much draw (see Back To The Future, parts 1, 2, 3)


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## HWTactics (Jul 4, 2015)

Agh... so many feels.  I guess I'm a little with everyone.  An issue like this is hard to troubleshoot remotely.  The CX series isn't _horrible _either, I agree, but there's been enough negative press about the 750 specifically that if I had to pick just one piece of hardware to replace, that 750 be the most probable culprit.

I didn't know about the low shutdown temp threshold though, and taking the side off your case is free OP.  Why not give that a try then fire up Furmark/Prime95 again?  That might be all there is to it.

If you can use your current PSU in another build, that's always a plus so you're not just "out money" too.  As far as which PSU to buy, as long as it's 600W+, 80+ Bronze or better and made by FSP, Silverstone, Corsair, Antec, Seasonic, or EVGA with good user reviews (and professional reviews) I would buy whatever is the cheapest.


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## GreiverBlade (Jul 4, 2015)

newtekie1 said:


> Get which ever is cheaper, I believe both use the same platform anyway.


well yes ... the AX760 OEM is Seasonic and since they have the same price (which is uncommon with Corsair ... kudos to them for that) i would recommend both, but i tend to go for the OEM without the branding  weird isn't it
using newegg for comparison but for the OP if one is cheaper than the other, then yep buy that one. (tho the Seasonic has a little rebate of 15$ at newegg )

also





*AX760 WINS EDITOR'S CHOICE AT TECHPOWERUP!*
“To sum up, the AX760 is a no brainer if you don't want many bells and whistles (aka digital control), but do want the best that money can buy in this category. You will invest a serious amount of money, that is for sure, but you will enjoy Corsair's support for seven years while your system is being fed by ultra-clean and stable DC outputs. As I stated many times in the past, the purchase of a PSU is an investment, so better take it very seriously. A good PSU will accompany you for many many years and will actually protect your system in case something goes horribly wrong.”

the conclusion goes for the Seasonic too ... then indeed you can't go wrong with both of them, i read Jonyguru's review too but i trust TPU own PSU reviewer cmaris does a good job too.


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## R-T-B (Jul 4, 2015)

MrGenius said:


> Nope. Not once. Not ever. Nor will there ever be a time when I look to a product review on the internet to guide me in my choice of purchasing ANY product of ANY type. Grow a brain and try thinking for yourself sometime.



This works well if you have unlimited cash...  not all of us are so fortunate and some of us actually like to read others experiences before taking the plunge ourselves...


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## Saru (Jul 4, 2015)

Hood said:


> Running a time machine off your rig is bound to cause PSU problems...too much draw (see Back To The Future, parts 1, 2, 3)


Oh sorry. hahaha

September, 2014.


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## Saru (Jul 4, 2015)

Guys, I'm so glad to see so many replies. Thank you so much for help me. You guys are true help for those who are inexperienced with hardware/software.

Really, thank you so much, all of you help me with this PSU's problem.


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## THE_EVIL_RAPIER (Jul 4, 2015)

I just RMA'd a Corsair 850w HX. finally narrowed down the problem to my PSU. I could sit on the desktop or browse the internet for hours just fine. As soon as i put any load on it i would get a high pitched squeal, like a cricket, then complete power off and restart in a couple of seconds. I ended up buying an EVGA 1000w P2. I've not had a shutdown since. I explained the symptoms in my RMA to corsair and gave a screen grab of my purchase through Newegg. They didn't question it and straight away gave me an RMA number. A friend got the new unit. lol


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## Tim Thrush (Jul 4, 2015)

I see a lot of failed Corsair units these days.  Usually it's the RM units, but it seems like their quality has fallen as a whole in the last 3 years or so.  Hell, I still have a VX unit in a system somewhere around here and that thing is about 7 years old!

With that said, if my PSU was making the sound you're describing I'd get a new one.  The two main things that are going to bring your computer down like you're describing is overheating and power issues.  I'd recommend a different brand but after doing this long enough I really don't trust any brands anymore.  I think if I was shopping for a new PSU today I'd probably get a Thermaltake toughpower grand unit (not the digital line).  

All computer parts will go bad at some point, it looks like you just got one that had a manufacturing defect out of the factory.


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## rtwjunkie (Jul 4, 2015)

Definately a problem with the PSU.  You've got enough watts and amps.  With that setup, Witcher 3 should not pull more than 500 wats.  Mine pulls 420.


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## EarthDog (Jul 4, 2015)

Neither. Evga supernova g2 750w..  or perhaps evga gs650w. The g2 is as good or better than those you listed AND cheaper. 



MrGenius said:


> I love all the "I've had no experience as an owner of the product in question. But I read such and such written by so and so *ON THE INTERNET*. So by God it must be true."
> 
> LAUGH MY EFFING ASS OFF!!!
> 
> Nope. Not once. Not ever. Nor will there ever be a time when I look to a product review on the internet to guide me in my choice of purchasing ANY product of ANY type. Grow a brain and try thinking for yourself sometime.


hey there , "Mr genius" (lol), some people just are not as smart as you (lol) and don't have the in depth knowledge of what makes a [insert computer part here] a good quality component. People rely on hardware reviews FROM TRUSTED REVIEWERS to help them make the right choices.

There is absolutely no need to be a condescending prick, as I have seen a couple of your posts are, to members...it's also pretty obvious that you don't quite have the handle on things you think you do as far as knowledge goes.  Stop being an ass.


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## Saru (Jul 4, 2015)

Tim Thrush said:


> I see a lot of failed Corsair units these days.  Usually it's the RM units, but it seems like their quality has fallen as a whole in the last 3 years or so.  Hell, I still have a VX unit in a system somewhere around here and that thing is about 7 years old!
> 
> With that said, if my PSU was making the sound you're describing I'd get a new one.  The two main things that are going to bring your computer down like you're describing is overheating and power issues.  I'd recommend a different brand but after doing this long enough I really don't trust any brands anymore.  I think if I was shopping for a new PSU today I'd probably get a Thermaltake toughpower grand unit (not the digital line).
> 
> All computer parts will go bad at some point, it looks like you just got one that had a manufacturing defect out of the factory.



Thermaltake? hum. only hear them about cases


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## Saru (Jul 4, 2015)

rtwjunkie said:


> Definately a problem with the PSU.  You've got enough watts and amps.  With that setup, Witcher 3 should not pull more than 500 wats.  Mine pulls 420.



Yeah. I think a PSU with 600W should be fine, right?


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## EarthDog (Jul 4, 2015)

You can overclock the hell out of both cpu and gpu and use a QUALITY 600w psu, yes.


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## Saru (Jul 4, 2015)

EarthDog said:


> Neither. Evga supernova g2 750w..  or perhaps evga gs650w.
> 
> hey there , "Mr genius" (lol), some people just are not as smart as you (lol) and don't have the in depth knowledge of what makes a [insert computer part here] a good quality component. People rely on hardware reviews FROM TRUSTED REVIEWERS to help them make the right choices.
> 
> There is absolutely no need to be a condescending prick, as I have seen a couple of your post are, to members...it's also pretty obvious that you don't quite have the handle on things you think you do. Stop being an ass.



EVGA? Their PSU is more cheaper here. That G2 750w its 80 Plus Gold.

However, the Seasonic (on the poll) is 80 Plus Platinum.


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## Saru (Jul 4, 2015)

EarthDog said:


> You can overclock the hell out of both cpu and gpu and use a QUALITY 600w psu, yes.



90% efficiency?

Gold? Platinum? So many 80 Plus models... hahaha


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## Saru (Jul 4, 2015)

I mean, if I buy a 600W, should I get Platinum? Or 700, 750W a Gold is enough? Or nothing about this with the certified 80 Plus matters?


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## BarbaricSoul (Jul 4, 2015)

You can also look at XFX as an option as well. I have a i7 3930k OC to 4.2 with a EVGA SC GTX 780ti OC'ed to 1.25GHz that has been running on a XFX XXX edition 750 Pro ever since the 780ti was new. Absolutely zero issues, even when I had the system folding and crunching (both CPU and GPU running at absolute full load).


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## BarbaricSoul (Jul 4, 2015)

Saru said:


> I mean, if I buy a 600W, should I get Platinum? Or 700, 750W a Gold is enough? Or nothing about this with the certified 80 Plus matters?


 600 silver "would be enough"


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## Saru (Jul 4, 2015)

So that's a good one, I think: Thermaltake ATX 650W Toughpower 80 Plus Gold TPD-0650M


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## BarbaricSoul (Jul 4, 2015)

JonnyGURU (trusted hardware site) gave the 850 watt model of that line a 9.2 rating, so I'd say yes to the Thermaltake.


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## HWTactics (Jul 4, 2015)

Tim Thrush said:


> I still have a VX unit in a system somewhere around here and that thing is about 7 years old!


I've had the VX430 in my storage server and that thing has been rock solid!  I loved the VX series while they were being made.

OP you could check slickdeals.net for any current deals on PSUs too.  There's almost certainly some crazy cheap ones out there today!  >Link< I see an XFX 750w for $50 after rebate. Not sure about international shipping or rebates in Brazil on some of these US-based sites though


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## Saru (Jul 4, 2015)

BarbaricSoul said:


> JonnyGURU (trusted hardware site) gave the 850 watt model of that line a 9.2 rating, so I'd say yes to the Thermaltake.



TechPowerUp gave a 9,3 for the EVGA G2 750W ^.^

Yeah, its pretty good PSU's there...

But, I dont want corsairs anymore


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## OneMoar (Jul 4, 2015)

meh not a fan of corsair psu's they are hit and miss have a HX750 no problems with it but I have seen plenty of CX and CM 's go up in smoke ...
either way I would spring for a 600 to 700W with at least 80+ rating,modular is also good if you care about cable management


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## GreiverBlade (Jul 4, 2015)

my M12II 750 Evo is a bronze unit, fully modular and quite cheap (price not quality   ) also my 1st Seasonic ... i couldn't be more pleased with it ...
previously i ran a FX6300+R9 290 on a Fractal design integra R2 650w (bronze closer to a silver just like the M12II Evo ) and both CPU and GPU were overclocked ... never ran into an issue, so i tend to think, even a good quality bronze is enough

short: 80+ bronze silver gold platinum titanium =/= quality of the PSU (the efficiency does a lot but the quality is not only the efficiency )


----------



## R-T-B (Jul 4, 2015)

Speaking of the EVGA's...  I got a 50% off EVGA PSU's coupon with my recent EVGA GTX 980 purchase...   very tempted to grab one personally just to see how they fair, the reviews look stellar.  Thinking about one of the Seasonic Platinum models (SP is the model number for them) but the Superflower ones are supposed to be crazy good as well.  At 50% off it should be an insane deal.  Don't be surprised if it shows up in the for sale forum after I'm done playing with it for a very low price, naturally


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

Guys... I was wondering.

What if its the PSU's fan?

You know, when I play Witcher 3 earlier in the day, the PC is cold, and it takes a while to shutdown. In the second shutdown, do not delay as much as the first time, and so on.

This may be the temperature of the PSU, right? What if it needs only exchange the fan of it?


----------



## GreiverBlade (Jul 5, 2015)

Saru said:


> Guys... I was wondering.
> 
> What if its the PSU's fan?
> 
> ...


nonononope ... changing a fan on a PSU is a bad idea ... altho i did it, but it was on a LC-Power 350w for a blue led fan mod after the original fan got 3 blades on 7 flew out of the aforementioned PSU ... and i know that opening a PSU without being qualified is not a good idea ... (tho it works as intended ... i would not use that one on any of my rig, as minor as they could be )

unless you RMA it and Corsair see it's the fan and either change it or replace the whole PSU


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

GreiverBlade said:


> nonononope ... changing a fan on a PSU is a bad idea ... altho i did it, but it was on a LC-Power 350w for a blue led fan mod after the original fan got 3 blades on 7 flew out of the aforementioned PSU ... and i know that opening a PSU without being qualified is not a good idea ... (tho it works as intended ... i would not use that one on any of my rig, as minor as they could be )
> 
> unless you RMA it and Corsair see it's the fan and either change it or replace the whole PSU



Yeah, you are right.

So, I changed the position of the PSU (I dont know if it matters) but the fan was down in the case and is now facing up




 

I tried running Prime95 and Furmark.

Last time, the PC survived 10 seconds. Now its 20 min and counting...

It can be the PSU, although, dont know, it might be playing a trick. hahaha

But, the fan was trying to getting air with the case's obstacles.

What do you think, guys?


----------



## Rowsol (Jul 5, 2015)

20 minutes of that seems good to me.  Did you play W3 after?

As far as PSU recommendation, I like any brand as long as it's gold or platinum.  I think the Rosewill capstones are good for the money.


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

Forget about it, it was a trick...

But I've found something. It only shutdown with Furmark test.

The Prime95 test doesn't take it down...


----------



## Rowsol (Jul 5, 2015)

GPU needs more juice than CPU.


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

Rowsol said:


> GPU needs more juice than CPU.



So... PSU?

I dont think that the GPU itself can shutdown the computer, right? (temps were fine, with 71ºC at max)


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

But... I can't understand that.

The PSU could hold Furmark and Prime 95 test at the same time in 20 minutes...

And then, I stopped, restarted the PC, put only Furmark and then there was a shutdown in 5 seconds.


----------



## EarthDog (Jul 5, 2015)

You shouldn't be running Furmark in the first place.. its a power virus.

But the fact that it did NOT die using both P95 and Furmark should tell you its likely not the PSU.


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

Well, doing some tests here...

I've changed the PCI-E cables (yeah, doing everything... hahaha), and running Furmark (6 minutes and counting...)


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)




----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

Hum... putting Prime95 test at same time, and 20 minutes with Furmark now... (I've just changed the cables)...

LOL, PCI-E cables with malfunction can shutdown a PC?


----------



## newtekie1 (Jul 5, 2015)

Saru said:


> LOL, PCI-E cables with malfunction can shutdown a PC?



If it was slightly loose, and not making a good connection, yes.  A cable that isn't making a good connection will  heat up at the point of the bad connection, the connector will got hot, the hotter it gets the more current is required to push through the connector.  Eventually, the current draw overloads the PSU and it trips the protection.

If that truly was the case, and I've seen it happen plenty of times so it is very possible, then the fact that the Corsair was actually built decently probably saved you.


----------



## HWTactics (Jul 5, 2015)

Very interesting.  Does your case have a vent cut out in the metal below the power supply?  If there is just solid metal there, the fan was too close to a flat surface to breathe correctly.  Sounds like you are on the right track.


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

newtekie1 said:


> If it was slightly loose, and not making a good connection, yes.  A cable that isn't making a good connection will  heat up at the point of the bad connection, the connector will got hot, the hotter it gets the more current is required to push through the connector.  Eventually, the current draw overloads the PSU and it trips the protection.
> 
> If that truly was the case, and I've seen it happen plenty of times so it is very possible, then the fact that the Corsair was actually built decently probably saved you.



Well... after 33 minutes with Furmark, Prime95, Chrome, MSI Afterburner, GPU-Z opened, the PC shutdown...

I dont know if it's good or it was the cables... but I did my record running these tests with 33 minutes!

But... its not good enough, right? A PSU 750 could handle more? Or is it normal for my rig?

Just to remind:

CPU: i7 4790k 4.0
GPU: GTX 780 Ti
RAM: 16 GB DDR3
WC: Seidon 120V
HD: 1x HD 1TB WD Blue
DVD: 1x DVD RW
Fans: 4 fans
MOBO: GA-Z97X-SLI


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

HWTactics said:


> Very interesting.  Does your case have a vent cut out in the metal below the power supply?  If there is just solid metal there, the fan was too close to a flat surface to breathe correctly.  Sounds like you are on the right track.



Hey, HWTactics...

Well, my case has an air filter on the bottom.

I dont think its heat. Furthermore, there are pins that leave it with room to breathe (like the image I sent)


----------



## Mussels (Jul 5, 2015)

that PSU should handle that load just fine, a loose cable could definitely have caused your intermittent issues.


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

Mussels said:


> that PSU should handle that load just fine, a loose cable could definitely have caused your intermittent issues.



Even with a shutdown after 33 minutes with all these programs opened?

I mean, it was normal? I never performed these tests before...


----------



## Mussels (Jul 5, 2015)

Saru said:


> Even with a shutdown after 33 minutes with all these programs opened?
> 
> I mean, it was normal? I never performed these tests before...



a loose cable doesnt care how long the PC was running, only when it was knocked loose. Don't forget you could have more than one issue here too - could be a loose or damaged power cable, AND something overheating (wait til its just powered off, then poke everything with your finger - RAM, VRM's, NB heatsinks, etc etc)


----------



## HWTactics (Jul 5, 2015)

Saru you might want to try playing Witcher now with the changes you have made.  33 minutes running a stress test isn't a bad result in your case if you ask me; the 780 Ti's cooler is just barely capable of acceptably dealing with its 250W TDP, and a stress test like Furmark pushes it harder than games will, kicking the heat up even higher.

Edit: Noticed the heat is 66°C; running Witcher should reign it in closer to the 60°C mark, which is a very good temp and the card shouldn't have any problems @ that temp.


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

Mussels said:


> a loose cable doesnt care how long the PC was running, only when it was knocked loose. Don't forget you could have more than one issue here too - could be a loose or damaged power cable, AND something overheating (wait til its just powered off, then poke everything with your finger - RAM, VRM's, NB heatsinks, etc etc)



So... do you think the problem with the PSU is solved? We are discussing now something that can be overheating?


----------



## Mussels (Jul 5, 2015)

Saru said:


> So... do you think the problem with the PSU is solved? We are discussing now something that can be overheating?




One of the most common troubleshooting mistakes is to assume there was only one problem. Two weeks ago i was making threads about why an R9 280X was faster in my stock i5 than my OC'd i7

After a week of troubleshooting and testing i found two broken fan power adaptors, a faulty power cable to my CPU waterblock/pump causing it to throttle occasionally, and that the i5's board has a slightly OC'd PCI-E bus. Perfect example of why complicated issues are so damn complicated.

edit: and the 280x actually died as well, VRM fault.


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

HWTactics said:


> Saru you might want to try playing Witcher now with the changes you have made.  33 minutes running a stress test isn't a bad result in your case if you ask me; the 780 Ti's cooler is just barely capable of acceptably dealing with its 250W TDP, and a stress test like Furmark pushes it harder than games will, kicking the heat up even higher.
> 
> Edit: Noticed the heat is 66°C; running Witcher should reign it in closer to the 60°C mark, which is a very good temp and the card shouldn't have any problems @ that temp.



Hahaha you read my mind.

I'm playing right now, some 20 minutes and no shutdowns... well, lets see and I will tell you.

Guys, I dont want to interrupt your sleep. Go back to bed (its 1:57 am here in Brazil hahahaha).

Thank you so much for helping me, its been great to see people helping each other. I'm very happy being in this forum.


----------



## HWTactics (Jul 5, 2015)

Another thought -- just noticed that GA-Z97X-SLI motherboard.

3.7 / 5 stars on Amazon
3 / 5 eggs on Newegg

One common complaint seems to be sudden power loss.  That board only has four power phases too.

Good luck with witcher!


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

Mussels said:


> One of the most common troubleshooting mistakes is to assume there was only one problem. Two weeks ago i was making threads about why an R9 280X was faster in my stock i5 than my OC'd i7
> 
> After a week of troubleshooting and testing i found two broken fan power adaptors, a faulty power cable to my CPU waterblock/pump causing it to throttle occasionally, and that the i5's board has a slightly OC'd PCI-E bus. Perfect example of why complicated issues are so damn complicated.



Yeah... PC gamer has a tough life...


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

HWTactics said:


> Another thought -- just noticed that GA-Z97X-SLI motherboard.
> 
> 3.7 / 5 stars on Amazon
> 3 / 5 eggs on Newegg
> ...



Oh god, I did want to save money with the MOBO and PSU


----------



## HWTactics (Jul 5, 2015)

I used that very same GA-Z97X-SLI mobo for a client with an i5-4570 and he hasn't called me with any problems since I sold it to him last year, so it's not necessarily a time bomb, but it's at least good to know it's a possibility too -- more likely, IMO than the power supply


----------



## newtekie1 (Jul 5, 2015)

HWTactics said:


> Another thought -- just noticed that GA-Z97X-SLI motherboard.
> 
> 3.7 / 5 stars on Amazon
> 3 / 5 eggs on Newegg
> ...



You know, I was just going to suggest the same thing.  I almost wonder if the VRM on the motherboard is overheating.  This can be a particular problem when using Liquid Cooling, like the OP is using, because there isn't a lot of airflow around the VRM like there is with an air cooler.


Saru said:


> Oh god, I did want to save money with the MOBO and PSU



Probably the two placed you DON'T want to save money.


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

Hum... VRM's... You mean these red ones?


----------



## newtekie1 (Jul 5, 2015)

The VRM are partially covered by the red heatsinks around the CPU as well as those gray boxes next to the heatsinks.

Generally, a quick way to tell how good a motherboard's VRM is is to count the number of gray boxes.  That will tell you how many phases the motherboard has.  3 or 4 is basically the minimum for socket 1150.  The better boards will have 8+.


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

newtekie1 said:


> The VRM are partially covered by the red heatsinks around the CPU as well as those gray boxes next to the heatsinks.



Hum, but if it is, how to solve this problem?


----------



## Mussels (Jul 5, 2015)

Saru said:


> Hum, but if it is, how to solve this problem?



cool it with a fan!


----------



## HWTactics (Jul 5, 2015)

Gigabyte was being a little pretentious with those massive heatsinks and only two chokes beside each one.  

Edit: Compare to the *Gigabyte Z97X-Gaming 3:*




Looking much better on the next model up.



newtekie1 said:


> 3 or 4 is basically the minimum for socket 1150.  The better boards will have 8+.



Just like newtekie1 says it!


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

HWTactics said:


> Gigabyte was being a little pretentious with those massive heatsinks and only two chokes beside each one.



Oh yeah, I see now. So, im gonna post an picture from my computer to show to you how is that...


----------



## newtekie1 (Jul 5, 2015)

Saru said:


> Hum, but if it is, how to solve this problem?



Getting some direct airflow over them would be the best option.  However, I almost wonder if just changing the airflow layout of your case might help, I'm wondering if flipping the PSU around actually made your tests work longer because it was sucking hot air out of the case.  Which caused the temps in the case to go down.

What case do you have, and what is your fan layout.  Can you post a picture of the whole computer?


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

That's my PC, plz dont laugh...

Oh yeah, there is a fan putting air in to those VRMs and red heatsinks (the white one)... and the black one putting air out...

I think you can see much better now how is this mess...


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

Like an L on the contrary

          VVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
<      VRM VRM
<    VRM    
<    VRM   CPU
<


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

Oh, I forgot... the case is a NZXT Phantom 530


----------



## HWTactics (Jul 5, 2015)

Looks like both are exhaust fans.  That's the way they should be since hot air rises.  I wonder what would happen if you flipped the top fan as an intake to push air over the heatsinks with the CPU fan pulling it back out again instead just for the hell of it.  I assume you have a couple intakes up front?


----------



## newtekie1 (Jul 5, 2015)

I'd mount the radiator and its fan at the top, and I'd also flip the radiator fan around so it was pulling in cool air and blowing it over the CPU VRM. The top of the case is actually designed for radiators.  Then put the white fan at the back as an exhaust.

At the very least, flip the white fan so it is pulling in cool air.  The way it is right now, both fans are pulling air out, which is probably not doing much for airflow over the VRM.


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

HWTactics said:


> Looks like both are exhaust fans.  That's the way they should be since hot air rises.  I wonder what would happen if you flipped the top fan as an intake to push air over the heatsinks with the CPU fan pulling it back out again instead just for the hell of it.  I assume you have a couple intakes up front?



You mean flip over the top fan (white one) and putting air out too?

Like this?


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

newtekie1 said:


> I'd mount the radiator and its fan at the top, and I'd also flip the radiator fan around so it was pulling in cool air and blowing it over the CPU VRM. The top of the case is actually designed for radiators.  Then put the white fan at the back as an exhaust.
> 
> At the very least, flip the white fan so it is pulling in cool air.  The way it is right now, both fans are pulling air out, which is probably not doing much for airflow over the VRM.



Oh you mean do the same thing with the white one, but putting the white one on the back, and the black one and radiator on the top? (There are 2 fans on the radiator).


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

Ok, I will do it! Thank you, guys. Tomorrow I come back to tell you how is the situation hehe.

And now go sleep, you helped me so much today, you need a break now  (3:08 am)

Oh and The Witcher 3 is already open for an hour, GPU and CPU working hard (not hard as Furmark/Prime95 test) and no shutdowns... Oh god, cables... CABLES... .

Thank you guys. See you tomorrow, thank you so much.


----------



## newtekie1 (Jul 5, 2015)

The way you have the fans now they are both pulling air out of the case right now.

Yes, I'd put the radiator and black fan or fans at the top.  The white at the back blowing out and the black fans pulling air in.

Also, on a side note, your radiator is mounted upside down, the tubes should be at the bottom.


----------



## GreiverBlade (Jul 5, 2015)

Saru said:


> Yeah, you are right.
> 
> So, I changed the position of the PSU (I dont know if it matters) but the fan was down in the case and is now facing up
> 
> ...


well ... bottom mounted PSU are meant to have the fan on the bottom where the opening made and specially designed for it, should be, alongside with a dust filter that you clean periodically so the airflow would not be  obstructed.



Rowsol said:


> 20 minutes of that seems good to me.  Did you play W3 after?
> 
> As far as PSU recommendation, I like any brand as long as it's gold or platinum.  I think the Rosewill capstones are good for the money.


bronze silver gold platinum titanium it matters not, as long as it's a good quality one ... heck even my M12II bronze can rival with a random brand silver or even gold...



Rowsol said:


> GPU needs more juice than CPU.





Saru said:


> So... PSU?
> 
> I dont think that the GPU itself can shutdown the computer, right? (temps were fine, with 71ºC at max)


he mean : typical power draw of a 4790K : 88w (OC it's more 100 to 125w), typical maximal power draw of a 780Ti PciE slot 75w+ PciE 6pin 75w+ PciE 8pin 150w= 300w (even if it's not the typical load draw or idle draw )



Mussels said:


> that PSU should handle that load just fine, a loose cable could definitely have caused your intermittent issues.


well yes but it doesn't hurt to buy a good PSU (unlike the CX line) like the *Seasonic SS-760XP * (plus if i recall correctly the OP need a PSU for his father and planed to use the Corsair for that purpose once he got the replacement



Saru said:


> Well... after 33 minutes with Furmark, Prime95, Chrome, MSI Afterburner, GPU-Z opened, the PC shutdown...
> 
> I dont know if it's good or it was the cables... but I did my record running these tests with 33 minutes!
> 
> ...


well a good 750w could handle more yes ... since my 700w from InWin (Commander III Desert Fox model 80+gold quite cheap price for the quality ) was able to handle a SLI of overclocked ASUS GTX580 Matrix Platinum (who asus recommend a 700w for a single of them) and a Xeon E3-1275v2 (which is typically a i7-3770 with the stock frequencies of a i7-3770K) also my current M12II in 750w could hold my 4690K @4.5 + 2 R9 290 (one under water and one extra borrowed for the test) @ 1000/1400. i would not even have to change it if i get another 980 (well ... maxwell helps a bit... lower power draw ...) but the average load consumption of a 780Ti is close to a 290,  so i could also handle 2 780Ti.


----------



## Pill Monster (Jul 5, 2015)

GreiverBlade said:


> nonononope ... changing a fan on a PSU is a bad idea ... altho i did it, but it was on a LC-Power 350w for a blue led fan mod after the original fan got 3 blades on 7 flew out of the aforementioned PSU ... and i know that opening a PSU without being qualified is not a good idea ... (tho it works as intended ... i would not use that one on any of my rig, as minor as they could be )
> 
> unless you RMA it and Corsair see it's the fan and either change it or replace the whole PSU


 Nah replacing a psu fan is only a 5min job. Pull the lid off unscrew the fan disconnect the plug and put the new one in, they're standard 120mm fans same as case fan. 


Corsair CX aren't great, quite a few had DOA and early failure issues after Corsair switched OEM on the budget Models. The name escapes me but coulda been great wall. CS will be better hopefully.






Saru said:


> Well... after 33 minutes with Furmark, Prime95, Chrome, MSI Afterburner, GPU-Z opened, the PC shutdown...
> 
> I dont know if it's good or it was the cables... but I did my record running these tests with 33 minutes!
> 
> ...


Why not  just pop the board in a microwave for 30s on high and get it over with? Be a lot quicker than trying slow cook your vrms to death with P95 and Furmark. 


I was going to suggest a faulty PSU but after reading this post who knows...don't have much sympathy realy.......


----------



## GreiverBlade (Jul 5, 2015)

Pill Monster said:


> Nah replacing a psu fan is only a 5min job. Pull the lid off unscrew the fan disconnect the plug and put the new one in, they're standard 120mm fans same as case fan.


i know ... i wrote that i did it ... but i still don't recommend it 

and the connector is a specific one  my blue led has a std 4pin molex and a 3pin molex and the 4p molex is connected outside the PSU (micro 3-4pin depending the model, i have some spare PSU fan coming from dead PSU also ...)


edit ... what baffles me is ... 4 powerphase on a Z97 chipset... , i wouldn't even OC my CPU on that kind of board ... there is plenty good and reasonably priced 8+2 phases around the market.


----------



## Cvrk (Jul 5, 2015)

Saru said:


> No, I bought the CX750M in September, 2015.


Time traveler.
If i may be so bold,does the oil stock drop by then ? Help us all out here on tpu forum, by giving us some predictions,so we can all get rich


----------



## EarthDog (Jul 5, 2015)

GreiverBlade said:


> edit ... what baffles me is ... 4 powerphase on a Z97 chipset... , i wouldn't even OC my CPU on that kind of board ... there is plenty good and reasonably priced 8+2 phases around the market.


I would. It's intel, not amd fx man. You won't be breaking any records with it,  but it will handle any low to mid 4ghz oc. 



newtekie1 said:


> At the very least, flip the white fan so it is pulling in cool air. The way it is right now, both fans are pulling air out, which is probably not doing much for airflow over the VRM


there is intake in the front, it's moving air over them.. again, this is intel peeps! That said though, if they are hot to the touch, do get more airflow over them. 

The problem with flipping the airflow around is airFLOW. I would add another small fan on the vrm IF NEEDED before I reversed airflow. 

Review showing 4.5ghz stable..http://www.pureoverclock.com/Review-detail/gigabyte-z97x-sli-motherboard-review/10/


----------



## GreiverBlade (Jul 5, 2015)

we


EarthDog said:


> I would. It's intel, not amd fx man. You won't be breaking any records with it,  but it will handle any low to mid 4ghz oc.
> 
> there is intake in the front, it's moving air over them.. again, this is intel peeps! That said though, if they are hot to the touch, do get more airflow over them.
> 
> ...


"it's intel" "this is intel peeps" ... kinda love that kind of addition 

also i love how that board is just a tad higher than the price of my Maximus VII Ranger, well when i bought it .... it was 154.50chf and all proportion kept to the actual price of the Giga mobo it's only 24.50chf(26.06$) more, now that MVIIR is around 239$  i thought computer hardware prices decrease over time ... not increase 

i know 4 phase is enough for a intel cpu ... but more a Celeron/pentium eventually  i3 or a low i5 but not a 4690K less a 4790K (yes i did read that review and the 4770K OC ... but it's a review site, not a regular pc user)
not saying it's a bad budget oriented board, but if stretching a bit the budget you can end up with something a bit more beefy (and still around 140-150$ while that board is listed at 129.99$) of course ... now if where the OP live there is no other options ... it's another story


----------



## EarthDog (Jul 5, 2015)

For a higher price there are better boards. No doubt. But that board is fine for a 4690K or a 4790K well into 4GHz range. Remember with the inclusion of the FIVR on die, the motherboard VRMs do not play as important of a role with Intel processors.Now, I wouldn't push much pas that or suggest it for water and pushing with that cooling. It will handle air overclocks to 4.5Ghz.


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

Well, I did some changes that you guys recommended...




 

There is more space now, the fans are putting air out. I think there will be no problem for the VRM's temps


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

Should I try to do the Furmark and Prime95 tests at the same time?


----------



## newtekie1 (Jul 5, 2015)

EarthDog said:


> I would. It's intel, not amd fx man. You won't be breaking any records with it, but it will handle any low to mid 4ghz oc.



His processor already boosts to 4.4GHz.  So, no, I wouldn't overclock beyond that with a 4-Phase motherboard.  Intel may be power efficient, but there is still a limit to what a 4-Phase motherboard is capable of.



EarthDog said:


> there is intake in the front, it's moving air over them.. again, this is intel peeps! That said though, if they are hot to the touch, do get more airflow over them.
> 
> The problem with flipping the airflow around is airFLOW. I would add another small fan on the vrm IF NEEDED before I reversed airflow.
> 
> Review showing 4.5ghz stable..http://www.pureoverclock.com/Review-detail/gigabyte-z97x-sli-motherboard-review/10/



The front fan isn't moving air over them.  It is bringing in fresh air, but blowing it right on hard drive cages.  The way it was set up before the back half of the VRM was covered by the radiator and getting zero airflow.

And just because it is stable at 4.5GHz, doesn't mean it will last and not die an early death.  I've seen boards with overheating VRMs that ran perfectly stable for a good while, but they were running so hot the motherboard started to discolor, and they ran fine all the way up until the day the board just died on day.


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

Hey, guys...

After doing the changes, running Furmark and Prime95 at the sametime, after 30 ~ 35 minutes, there was no shutdown, but this:


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

I was test Witcher 3... in 2 minutes, the PC shutdown.

That's enough, gonna buy another PSU, will give my CX to my dad. And that's it...

Oh and about the Furmark and Prime 95 tests, the PC did shutdown with MSI Afterburner opened. Without it, it just did a BSOD...

I'm gonna try the last test, running Witcher 3 without MSI afterburner...


----------



## rtwjunkie (Jul 5, 2015)

Please @Saru stop using furmark.  It's GPU abuse.  There is no reason to abuse your card like that.

Benchmark your card with Heaven and Valley if you want, but the best test is to play games with it.  I feel a pain in my chest and my heart goes out to every poor GPU I hear someone using Furmark on.


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

rtwjunkie said:


> with it. I feel a pain in my chest





rtwjunkie said:


> Please @Saru stop using furmark.  It's GPU abuse.  There is no reason to abuse your card like that.
> 
> Benchmark your card with Heaven and Valley if you want, but the best test is to play games with it.  I feel a pain in my chest and my heart goes out to every poor GPU I hear someone using Furmark on.



Got it. 

Thanks


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

So... 1 hour playing The Witcher 3 and no problem has occurred so far.

MSI Afterburner can affect my PSU? or other things that can shutdown the PC?

I had read some experiences of players running TW3 using MSI Afterburn, and these experiences were not very good with high-end PC's, but mid-end systems doesn't affect so much...


----------



## rtwjunkie (Jul 5, 2015)

I use MSI afterburner, and also use it to create an 8point fan profile to keep GPU cool.  It shouldn't affect you TW3.  Works great on mine.


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

rtwjunkie said:


> I use MSI afterburner, and also use it to create an 8point fan profile to keep GPU cool.  It shouldn't affect you TW3.  Works great on mine.



Hum, perhaps my MSI is outdated?


----------



## Saru (Jul 5, 2015)

No, its not...

Well, I think I will buy an EVGA G2 750W


----------



## R-T-B (Jul 5, 2015)

Saru said:


> No, its not...
> 
> Well, I think I will buy an EVGA G2 750W



The EVGA's are great PSUs...  That particular one is an excellent SuperFlower OEM build.  I can't guarantee it will fix your problem, but I can say you it will at least rule out the PSU as they are of very high quality.


----------



## EarthDog (Jul 6, 2015)

newtekie1 said:


> His processor already boosts to 4.4GHz.  So, no, I wouldn't overclock beyond that with a 4-Phase motherboard.  Intel may be power efficient, but there is still a limit to what a 4-Phase motherboard is capable of.


Yep, there is and it's not 100 mhz over boost with all cores. Trust me.


----------



## HWTactics (Jul 6, 2015)

EarthDog said:


> Yep, there is and it's not 100 mhz over boost with all cores. Trust me.



I wouldn't be so sure about that.
Pureoverclock.com managed only exactly 4.5GHz with a 4770K and beyond that the system was unstable.  They even needed an ugly 1.546V core to get there.

_"As you can tell from the overclocking, while the Z97X SLI can handle overclocks, temps were way out of range, and voltages were high in order to hold the 4770k stable. In past reviews, we have been able to get the 4770K stable at 4.4GHz to 4.5GHz at 1.35volts, but this can be due to multiple things such has its lower VRM phase, however we needed to make some changes to gain stability."_

Rather than saying "trust me" I'd prefer to see info like this to back up claims


----------



## EarthDog (Jul 6, 2015)

I didn't say it would be at the same voltage as other boards. I just said it will do it, and it does. That specific board may have a weaker 4 phase vrm versus others I have used. It's heatsinked though.. that 1/5 the battle. Lol!

But the bottom line is it will do low to mid 4 ghz as I said in my initial post.


----------



## newtekie1 (Jul 6, 2015)

EarthDog said:


> Yep, there is and it's not 100 mhz over boost with all cores. Trust me.



Boost with all cores is 4.2GHz. And, as I said, it probably will handled the overclock for a short period of time, but _I_ wouldn't run it that way for long.


----------



## EarthDog (Jul 6, 2015)

The increase in voltage is a hit concerning on this board honestly. But there are many z97 4 phase boards that will handle 4.5ghz with such significant differences in voltage.


----------



## Saru (Jul 6, 2015)

Guys, calm down... my CPU is at 4.0 Ghz

Last time, was 4,4 Ghz because Turbo Boost was on, but I turned off...


----------



## GreiverBlade (Jul 6, 2015)

ok definitively it's a motherboard for a Pentium G3258 and that's all (and was meant for that by Gigabyte.)  @EarthDog, pointless discussion is pointless, let's just end this.
(and i might be right ... any 4 phase Z97 are just conceived so people can OC a G3258 by a official mean: you don't pair a 4690K/4790K with a cheap board ... you pair a cheap CPU with a cheap board )



Saru said:


> Guys, calm down... my CPU is at 4.0 Ghz
> 
> Last time, was 4,4 Ghz because Turbo Boost was on, but I turned off...


thanks Saru... also could you not triple post alll the time, there is a button on the bottom left of yur last post (or any post you wrote) who's function is edit 

ps: as @rtwjunkie wrote Furmark itself is already a real bad idea, but running it alongside with Prim95 ... that's even worse, you never run load intensive stress software unless you want to fry something in your rig (and with 4 phase ... it would be the motherboard before the PSU) and that said ... not even The Witcher 3, as ressource heavy as it is, would pull more than 1/3 of the load generated by a simultaneous run of those 2 software.


----------



## EarthDog (Jul 6, 2015)

GreiverBlade said:


> ok definitively it's a motherboard for a Pentium G3258 and that's all (and was meant for that by Gigabyte.)  @EarthDog, pointless discussion is pointless, let's just end this.
> (and i might be right ... any 4 phase Z97 are just conceived so people can OC a G3258 by a official mean: you don't pair a 4690K/4790K with a cheap board ... you pair a cheap CPU with a cheap board )


Since this is off topic from the thread title.. I'm not going to resspond to it with details... but know that its nonsense.... if you care to know why that is nonsense, you can PM me.

/now back to your regularly scheduled programming.


----------



## Mussels (Jul 6, 2015)

GreiverBlade said:


> ps: as @rtwjunkie wrote Furmark itself is already a real bad idea, but running it alongside with Prim95 ... that's even worse, you never run load intensive stress software unless you want to fry something in your rig (and with 4 phase ... it would be the motherboard before the PSU) and that said ... not even The Witcher 3, as ressource heavy as it is, would pull more than 1/3 of the load generated by a simultaneous run of those 2 software.



I run those tests specifically to check for hardware faults and for diagnosis, as the OP has. You just don't do it for fun.


----------



## GreiverBlade (Jul 6, 2015)

Mussels said:


> I run those tests specifically to check for hardware faults and for diagnosis, as the OP has. You just don't do it for fun.


yes maybe but not both AT the same TIME  (and FurMark is still a bad thing no matter what stability concern is in cause,  you can use a heavy load benchmark as Heaven 4.0 who is far less dangerous than FM )


----------



## Mussels (Jul 6, 2015)

GreiverBlade said:


> yes maybe but not both AT the same TIME  (and FurMark is still a bad thing no matter what stability concern is in cause,  you can use a heavy load benchmark as Heaven 4.0 who is far less dangerous than FM )



only both at the same time if you're diagnosing your PC suddenly shutting down during heavy gaming, and its not temps.

Honestly if my PC cant run all of those at once, i wouldn't consider it stable in the first place.


----------



## Saru (Jul 6, 2015)

Mussels said:


> only both at the same time if you're diagnosing your PC suddenly shutting down during heavy gaming, and its not temps.
> 
> Honestly if my PC cant run all of those at once, i wouldn't consider it stable in the first place.



My PC did run, actually, WITHOUT MSI afterburn.

But, after 30 ~ 35 minutes, there was BSOD (CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT)

[QUOTE="thanks Saru... alsocould you not triple post alll the time, there is a button on the bottom left of yur last post (or any post you wrote) who's function is edit[/QUOTE]

Oh, and I want to apologize about double/triple post.

Sry for that...


----------



## newtekie1 (Jul 6, 2015)

GreiverBlade said:


> yes maybe but not both AT the same TIME  (and FurMark is still a bad thing no matter what stability concern is in cause,  you can use a heavy load benchmark as Heaven 4.0 who is far less dangerous than FM )



Furmark, and programs like it, aren't dangerous anymore.  When nVidia and AMD put board power limits in place they made it so that Furmark could only make the card draw as much power as they allowed.  They no longer overload cards.



Saru said:


> But, after 30 ~ 35 minutes, there was BSOD (CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT)



Clock_Watchdog_Timeout is a CPU related bluescreen.  It generally points to an unstable CPU.  That doesn't mean it isn't a PSU issue though.  The PSU could be feeding bad power to the system causing the CPU to be unstable, or the VRMs could be overheating causing the CPU to be unstable.

What is the vcore reading in the BIOS?  Also, what does CPU-Z say the voltage is?


----------



## Saru (Jul 6, 2015)

newtekie1 said:


> Furmark, and programs like it, aren't dangerous anymore.  When nVidia and AMD put board power limits in place they made it so that Furmark could only make the card draw as much power as they allowed.  They no longer overload cards.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



So, about the voltages in the BIOS

VRIN = 1,800V
VCORE = 1,064V

Well, CPU-Z is showing me 1.071V (sometimes it jumps 0.987V or 0.850V)

Edit: I was playing GTA V, now the CPU-Z only shows me 0.800V with jumps to 0.850, 1.066...


----------



## newtekie1 (Jul 6, 2015)

That's normal, the voltage is going to jump around based on load.  It is part of the SpeedStep technology.

Those voltages don't look too bad, maybe a little on the high side.


----------



## Saru (Jul 6, 2015)

newtekie1 said:


> That's normal, the voltage is going to jump around based on load.  It is part of the SpeedStep technology.
> 
> Those voltages don't look too bad, maybe a little on the high side.



So, nothing wrong with the voltages?


----------



## EarthDog (Jul 6, 2015)

That's what he said, yep.


----------



## Saru (Jul 6, 2015)

EarthDog said:


> That's what he said, yep.



It seems the VRM's problem is more likely, then...

However, there was no shutdown since I turned off the MSI Afterburn

Some expert with this program could give an explanation of what it does with the system?

Just to remind, it opens the RivaTuner too...


----------



## EarthDog (Jul 6, 2015)

Uninstall MSI AB... reinstall WITHOUT RiveTuner statistics server...

Do those VRM heatsinks get hot to the touch when the CPU is on load?


----------



## Saru (Jul 6, 2015)

EarthDog said:


> Uninstall MSI AB... reinstall WITHOUT RiveTuner statistics server...
> 
> Do those VRM heatsinks get hot to the touch when the CPU is on load?



Forget about it... it just shutdown now, I was playing The Witcher 3 without MSIAB and Rivatuner...

It's very weird, yesterday I was playing TW3 with MSI, and shutdown in 2 minutes, then I turned off MSIAB and Rivatuner and was everything ok, playing The Witcher about 3 hours.

Now, it survived only 15 minutes.

Well, about the VRM heatskinks, you want me to touch them? didn't understand... I can put a fan directly to the VRM's if you want. And if the system shutdown, can we conclude that is not related to temperature of VRM? Its related to the PSU?!

I want to know because I can buy a new hardware now since I paid the credit card bill today...

And YES, here in Brazil, a good PSU is 300 dollars


----------



## EarthDog (Jul 6, 2015)

Yes, touch them... with your fingers while you are playing a game. If they are hot to the touch, point a fan at them and see if you can play longer. If so, it is the VRMs that may be the issue.


----------



## Saru (Jul 6, 2015)

EarthDog said:


> Yes, touch them... with your fingers while you are playing a game. If they are hot to the touch, point a fan at them and see if you can play longer. If so, it is the VRMs that may be the issue.



Are you sure? Are you not trolling me, right? dont wanna die testing a computer hahaha (sorry for the hardware inexperience)


----------



## EarthDog (Jul 6, 2015)

Yes, I am sure. Touch the heatsink on the VRMs after you have played for a while... or immediately after it shuts down.


----------



## HWTactics (Jul 6, 2015)

An infrared thermometer like this to measure temperature is cheap if you don't trust your calibrated finger


----------



## newtekie1 (Jul 6, 2015)

Saru said:


> Are you sure? Are you not trolling me, right? dont wanna die testing a computer hahaha (sorry for the hardware inexperience)



He's not trolling, the worst that might happen is you burn the tip of your finger.


----------



## Saru (Jul 6, 2015)

EarthDog said:


> Yes, I am sure. Touch the heatsink on the VRMs.



Ok.

Well, its warm. Now I'm gonna open the game... (cant really feel right because of the fans)

Well, 5 minutes in the game and I can put my fingers on the VRM's and heatsinks... what can I say? It is hotter of course, but is acceptable. I can leave my finger for 10 seconds in a VRM till start hurting.

Only chrome and Witcher 3 opening.

Now gonna open MSI...

The PC shutdown... (soon after I opened the MSI), its hotter, could left the finger only by 3 seconds till hurting... lucky, techpowerup saved my post.

Now, I'm gonna test with a big fan put directly to them and play Witcher 3 with MSI: Well, its cold, very cold... I can leave my finger for a 30 seconds without hurting it.

No shutdowns. (How I'm gonna cool these VRM's? hahaha it seems there is a tractor here)

- Putting everything on Ultra Settings and turning on Hairworks, sir!

- Witcher 3 running with 30 ~ 40 FPS.

- Opening 10 videos on youtube running in Full HD!

- No shutdowns...

I'm gonna check the VRM's and heatsinks temps: Cold, very cold.

That's a photo of them:




 

Well, I'm playing Witcher 3 for 30 minutes with 20 bars of chrome (10 from Youtube) and everything is normal...

Please, dont say to me that I have to buy a new MOBO, its more expensive


----------



## EarthDog (Jul 6, 2015)

Well, not all 4 phase boards are created equal (damn me for blanket statements, I KNOW BETTER, LOL!).

That said, to avoid buying another board, rig a fan to blow across those VRMs. Be creative...



What is weird though is MSI AB, a program for GPUs, is causing it to heat up... that makes ZERO sense.


----------



## HWTactics (Jul 6, 2015)

What's your hardware polling period set to?


----------



## Saru (Jul 6, 2015)

EarthDog said:


> Well, not all 4 phase boards are created equal (damn me for blanket statements, I KNOW BETTER, LOL!).
> 
> That said, to avoid buying another board, rig a fan to blow across those VRMs. Be creative...
> 
> ...



Well, I dont think that my fan (120mm) can be efficient like my ventilator with, I dont know, 50cm diameter? Is there something that I can buy to cool those VRM's?


----------



## Rowsol (Jul 6, 2015)

My first gaming computer had a faulty graphics card and it would overheat constantly.  Sat a desk fan next to it.  Never had another issue.  Your cooling in your case seems good, so hard to say if it's an overheat issue.  Random shutdowns during intense workloads is usually a sign though.


----------



## newtekie1 (Jul 6, 2015)

EarthDog said:


> What is weird though is MSI AB, a program for GPUs, is causing it to heat up... that makes ZERO sense.



Unless it is some how interacting with the onboard GPU.  Maybe try disabling the onboard GPU int the BIOS?

Maybe grab a couple of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Asus-Option...ling-or-passive-CPU-cooling-NEW-/221811379158

They are made by ASUS to clip onto motherboard VRMs when you are using liquid cooling.  They are made for ASUS motherboard, but they might work for the Gigabyte.  It might require the use of some zip-ties?


----------



## EarthDog (Jul 6, 2015)

Saru said:


> Well, I dont think that my fan (120mm) can be efficient like my ventilator with, I dont know, 50cm diameter? Is there something that I can buy to cool those VRM's?


Efficiency? Let's worry about that AFTER your problem is resolved. A 120mm blowing across the VRMs will be helpful.


----------



## Saru (Jul 6, 2015)

newtekie1 said:


> Unless it is some how interacting with the onboard GPU.  Maybe try disabling the onboard GPU int the BIOS?



Oh, the Intel HD 4600...


----------



## EarthDog (Jul 6, 2015)

Saru said:


> Oh, the Intel HD 4600...


Yes, for giggles, try disabling it.


----------



## HWTactics (Jul 6, 2015)

Saru said:


> Well, I dont think that my fan (120mm) can be efficient like my ventilator with, I dont know, 50cm diameter? Is there something that I can buy to cool those VRM's?



Get creative!


----------



## Saru (Jul 6, 2015)

EarthDog said:


> Yes, for giggles, try disabling it.



Right.



EarthDog said:


> Efficiency? Let's worry about that AFTER your problem is resolved. A 120mm blowing across the VRMs will be helpful.



Ok, but there is a fan 120mm on the left and a fan 120mm above, hum...


----------



## newtekie1 (Jul 6, 2015)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209044

That might be an more elegant solution.  Saddly it has an annoying blue LED, but at least it would do the job.


----------



## Saru (Jul 6, 2015)

newtekie1 said:


> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209044
> 
> That might be an more elegant solution.  Saddly it has an annoying blue LED, but at least it would do the job.




Hum, that's a good one!

Well, in the end the problem was the VRM's temps

And I speaking ill of my beloved CX750M...

HWtactics, that's a good way too. I think a fan less than 120 mm can solve the problem because there are 5 VRM's


----------



## HWTactics (Jul 6, 2015)

Saru said:


> Well, in the end the problem was the VRM's temps



Have you played Witcher without crashing long enough now with some kind of fan blowing on them to be sure?  I wouldn't want to get everyone's hopes up (mine included) yet


----------



## Saru (Jul 6, 2015)

HWTactics said:


> Have you played Witcher without crashing long enough now with some kind of fan blowing on them to be sure?  I wouldn't want to get everyone's hopes up (mine included) yet



Well, it was running Witcher 3 with MSIAB, with chrome and 10 videos playing almost 1 hour...

There were 2 shutdowns before I tested with a big fan, and these shutdowns did happen in 10 or 15 minutes.

I'm gonna make a 10 hours gameplay of Witcher 3, my wife is gonna be mad. 



HWTactics said:


> What's your hardware polling period set to?



Oh I forgot, sorry.

Its 1000 ms.


----------



## HWTactics (Jul 6, 2015)

Saru said:


> Witcher 3 with MSIAB, with chrome and 10 videos playing almost 1 hour


 and now we wait and cross our fingers!


----------



## Saru (Jul 6, 2015)

Wait... hold on guys.

I dont need 2 fans on the radiator of the water cooler, right?

I think will put the second one fan on the VRM's... But what is the right position of the fan that will be stay on the radiator?

Some screens show me that its where the cables end...






Some screens, on the back






Or it doesn't matter and I'm crazy?


----------



## HWTactics (Jul 6, 2015)

Either way is fine.  Two fans shave an extra 1-3°C off load temps typically but one won't give you any trouble.


----------



## Saru (Jul 7, 2015)

HWTactics said:


> Either way is fine.  Two fans shave an extra 1-3°C off load temps typically but one won't give you any trouble.




Now that, gentlemen, is a piece of (*shit*) art!





So... i'm gonna play with Witcher 3 with MSI for a few hours (8 at least) and then I come back here with more news!

Oh, and I put the red one at full speed


----------



## newtekie1 (Jul 7, 2015)

Hey, if it works, who cares.


----------



## Saru (Jul 7, 2015)

So guys... I have, well, bad news, or... I dont know

After 3 hours and 30 min playing Witcher 3 with MSI, Chrome, and other stuffs opened, PC shutdown...

I dont know if the fan couldn't take the VRM's heat... I dont know...

But, it was a good move, I think...

Edit: Hum, weird... it shutdown after the same cutscene, at the same time of the previous shutdown.

I found a guy that has the same problem, and he said this:

_EDIT: So with your guys help i managed to gather some information what was causing the crash. My TDP was going around 80-90% during long heavy cutscene or when it loaded the world after a cutscene and peeking all the way *above 100% and then crashed.* Then i underclocked my GPU by 250-300Mzh, TDP was around ~80% and didnt go over 90% at all and i was able to play like 2 hours and then got crash, so definently im able to play longer if i underclock my GPU, so i think thats the issue of me crashing, soo...now what, what is the fix? _


----------



## HWTactics (Jul 7, 2015)

So, this thread could probably go on and on and on... but I think it would be easier at this point to tell you the things I -- and I'm sure everyone else who's helped here -- look for when troubleshooting instability.

At this point we still don't know what to rule out.  Motherboard?  Video card?  Power supply?  Is it software related?  Is it specific to Witcher 3?  Try testing one of these at a time and start checking possibilities off the list.  If you have any friends with hardware you can temporarily swap into your PC one at a time (specifically power supply, processor and video card) this would be a good time to do so to help isolate the problem.

In these seven pages of posts, you've found the kinds of things to look for.
- CPU and GPU clocks too high, or voltage too low
- Temps that cause instability under load
- Mechanical (physical) problems like connectors not clipped in completely and cards not seated entirely
- Software configuration, driver updates and bugs

I think everyone here is willing to help, but now that we've touched on mostly all these possibilities and still haven't drawn a solid conclusion, go back and test one thing at a time.  Here are some of my suggestions.

- Download the latest Forceware drivers and check for any updates for The Witcher 3.
- Try reducing the clock speed of the CPU by 500MHz.  Why would we do this?  Reducing load on the motherboard VRM.  Run it that way for a day or two.  Is the crash still there?
- Try reducing the core and memory speeds of the GPU by 20% or so.  Why would we do that?  Reducing load on the video card's VRM (it has its own just like the motherboard) and PSU.  Run it another day or two.  Still crashing?
- Try uninstalling Afterburner if you feel that could be related.  Run EVGA Precision instead as it supports mostly the same features.  Any change?
- Temps should be taken care of by now with your fan work so we can move past that.
- Double check your two motherboard power supply connections and video card connections.

Take your time and try to systematically isolate the problem.  It will take time and patience, but I understand the desire to want it to just work.  Fortunately the problem is not so huge as to completely prevent you from enjoying your PC while you test.  And remember, you are always free to RMA any parts you'd like to their respective manufacturers.  Based on what we've discussed so far I believe you have reason to question both the power supply and the motherboard.  Good luck.


----------



## Caring1 (Jul 7, 2015)

Saru said:


> Wait... hold on guys.
> 
> I dont need 2 fans on the radiator of the water cooler, right?
> 
> ...


Fan on the inside pushing air out through the radiator is better, they are designed for high static pressure, not sucking air.
Unless the fan is fully sealed when in contact with the radiator, air will leech in from the points of least resistance when attempting to suck air through the radiator.


----------



## EarthDog (Jul 7, 2015)

> I found a guy that has the same problem, and he said this:
> 
> _EDIT: So with your guys help i managed to gather some information what was causing the crash. My TDP was going around 80-90% during long heavy cutscene or when it loaded the world after a cutscene and peeking all the way *above 100% and then crashed.* Then i underclocked my GPU by 250-300Mzh, TDP was around ~80% and didnt go over 90% at all and i was able to play like 2 hours and then got crash, so definently im able to play longer if i underclock my GPU, so i think thats the issue of me crashing, soo...now what, what is the fix? _


raise the power limit on tbe gpu.


----------



## Saru (Jul 7, 2015)

EarthDog said:


> raise the power limit on tbe gpu.



You mean on the MSI? Well, I can raise only to 106








HWTactics said:


> So, this thread could probably go on and on and on... but I think it would be easier at this point to tell you the things I -- and I'm sure everyone else who's helped here -- look for when troubleshooting instability.
> 
> At this point we still don't know what to rule out.  Motherboard?  Video card?  Power supply?  Is it software related?  Is it specific to Witcher 3?  Try testing one of these at a time and start checking possibilities off the list.  If you have any friends with hardware you can temporarily swap into your PC one at a time (specifically power supply, processor and video card) this would be a good time to do so to help isolate the problem.
> 
> ...



Yeah, you are right. But I think the problem with the VRM's temp is solved, because after I put the fun there, I could play for 3 hours and half, never reached this period before...

I already did reduce the clock speed of the CPU, and memory and core speed of the GPU, turn off MSI, and check the connections and cables.

So, I think it only shutdown on the final of the cutscenes, where the TDP jumps from 80% to 100%+

Now, @EarthDog is telling me to raise the power limit of the GPU, but I can only increase up to 106 on the MSI. There is another way to increase that?


----------



## HWTactics (Jul 7, 2015)

Saru said:


> Now, @EarthDog is telling me to raise the power limit of the GPU, but I can only increase up to 106 on the MSI. There is another way to increase that?





HWTactics said:


> CPU and GPU clocks too high, or voltage too low



There are a handful of ways to troubleshoot the video card.  Either raising the power limit or lowering the clocks like I mentioned in my last post will work.  Or, do both.


----------



## Saru (Jul 7, 2015)

HWTactics said:


> There are a handful of ways to troubleshoot the video card.  Either raising the power limit or lowering the clocks like I mentioned in my last post will work.  Or, do both.



Hum, well like I said, I already did that in the past, but I had not put up a fan for VRM's still.

So, now, I think with a fan for them, and decrease the clock speed again, we solved this problem.

I didn't want there to be 7+ pages on this thread.

I did want to solve this problem as quickly as possible, but it is not as simple as you said.

Very sorry for that, I know that there are other problems with other guys on this forum.

Hopefully, we now solved it with

- A fan for VRM's and
- The reduction of the clock/memory speed of the GPU or the increase of the power limit.


----------



## EarthDog (Jul 7, 2015)

Increase the power limit first. You didn't buy it to run it like a slower card that costs less.

"Only" 106% isn't an issue... just raise it. And there are ways to get it higher, but it requires bios modding and to be blunt, you are not up for that type of activitiy.


----------



## Saru (Jul 7, 2015)

EarthDog said:


> Increase the power limit first. You didn't buy it to run it like a slower card that costs less.
> 
> "Only" 106% isn't an issue... just raise it. And there are ways to get it higher, but it requires bios modding and to be blunt, you are not up for that type of activitiy.



I know.

That's why I came here, because I knew you guys would have knowledge about this stuff.

And I can't thank you enough, I would pay you for that.


----------



## Saru (Jul 12, 2015)

Yes, its solved.

I waited almost a week to make a double post here because this is the final post 

After 10 hours of Witcher 3's gameplay, there was no shutdown. And yes, I reduced the clock/memory speed of the GPU by 100/200 Mhz, and put a 140mm fan on the top.

If someone has the same problem, I recommend to read this entire thread!

Thank you, guys. 
For everything. 
Best forum ever.


----------



## HWTactics (Jul 12, 2015)

Good to hear.  If the card is still under warranty you may have luck RMAing it.  You could also try turning up the clocks gradually until you find the point of instability.  Glad you've got it figured out.


----------



## Saru (Jul 12, 2015)

HWTactics said:


> Good to hear.  If the card is still under warranty you may have luck RMAing it.  You could also try turning up the clocks gradually until you find the point of instability.  Glad you've got it figured out.



Yes, I was thinking about that!

Thank you very much!

I hope we have helped others with the same problem.

I think this thread appears on Google, but its very specific about my PSU.

But with 171 replies, I think they can find! haha

I'll edit the title to facilitate people, what do you guys think?

[SOLVED] Problem playing Witcher 3 - VRM temps/GPU (clock/memory speed).

[SOLVED] PC shutdown playing Witcher 3 - reduce clock/memory speed and VRM temps.

[SOLVED] ...


----------



## newtekie1 (Jul 13, 2015)

Saru said:


> [SOLVED] Problem playing Witcher 3 - VRM temps/GPU (clock/memory speed).



I like this one.


----------



## EarthDog (Jul 13, 2015)

Is it really solved having to reduce clocks on your gpu? That is a workaround, but not the root cause (bad gpu?)


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## Saru (Jul 13, 2015)

EarthDog said:


> Is it really solved having to reduce clocks on your gpu? That is a workaround, but not the root cause (bad gpu?)



Yeah, it worked.

Well, Its a 780 Ti with OC from ZOTAC

I put the base clock and memory speed based on NVIDIA website.


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## EarthDog (Jul 13, 2015)

Riiiight. But you bought the card with higher clocks. It's supposed to work at those clocks. You have not foxed the root cause... but did find a workaround. If you can't return it, I suppose that workaround has to be your fix.


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## Saru (Jul 13, 2015)

EarthDog said:


> Riiiight. But you bought the card with higher clocks. It's supposed to work at those clocks. You have not foxed the root cause... but did find a workaround. If you can't return it, I suppose that workaround has to be your fix.



Yeah, a workaround, like you said.

I dont know if I can't return the clocks, I will test it. But this workaround might be helpful for those with the same problem...

I will update you with more news about the clock/memory speed thing, leave it to me 

Oh and thank you, by the way. You were a great help too!


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## Saru (Jul 16, 2015)

Forget everything what I said.

After 10 days, the imminent shutdown has return.

In this period I played so many games and the PC didn't shutdown, but now it came back to haunt again.

I'm gonna buy a new PSU and I will update here for more news in August. 

Thank you.


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## EarthDog (Jul 17, 2015)

Why are you returning the PSU? The GPU can't run at its stock clockspeed. THAT is a problem. I would RMA the card before I RMA'd the PSU...


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## ChevyOwner (Jul 17, 2015)

I'm not going to be much help at choosing a PSU. I normally just buy one that is overkill from a decent brand, and has a good warranty.




MrGenius said:


> I love all the "I've had no experience as an owner of the product in question. But I read such and such written by so and so *ON THE INTERNET*. So by God it must be true."
> 
> LAUGH MY EFFING ASS OFF!!!
> 
> Nope. Not once. Not ever. Nor will there ever be a time when I look to a product review on the internet to guide me in my choice of purchasing ANY product of ANY type. Grow a brain and try thinking for yourself sometime.



The things I have bought for my that I have regretted buying have all been things I ignored my brain and looked at reviews to buy. That Seasonic Platinum-1000 that has a glowing review here at TechPowerUp for example.


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## Saru (Jul 17, 2015)

EarthDog said:


> Why are you returning the PSU? The GPU can't run at its stock clockspeed. THAT is a problem. I would RMA the card before I RMA'd the PSU...



Oh, about that...

The PC shutdown before I tested with more clock/memory speeds.

And the PSU is doing some crazy sounds now, it seems like a bee sometimes when I run a game, a continuous stuttering and then shutdown.


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## EarthDog (Jul 17, 2015)

Are you sure its the PSU making that noise and not the GPU?


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## Saru (Jul 17, 2015)

EarthDog said:


> Are you sure its the PSU making that noise and not the GPU?



Yes, I'm pretty sure.

I know that I'm inexperienced with these things, but the sound comes from the PSU.


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## Saru (Jul 17, 2015)

ChevyOwner said:


> I'm not going to be much help at choosing a PSU. I normally just buy one that is overkill from a decent brand, and has a good warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I thank you very much for your help , with or without experience in PSUs 

@EarthDog.

In fact, I cant even play a game.

I was gonna start Skyforge (MMO) and before gets to the menu, the PSU did some noises like this: 







. And then, another power cycle.


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## ChevyOwner (Jul 17, 2015)

Watch this and see how it fits the sound you have.


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## Saru (Jul 17, 2015)

ChevyOwner said:


> Watch this and see how it fits the sound you have.



Its more electric than that.

I mean, the sound on this video is way more smooth than I'm getting in my PSU.


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## EarthDog (Jul 17, 2015)

Any chance you can record and upload a video of it?


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## Saru (Jul 20, 2015)

EarthDog said:


> Any chance you can record and upload a video of it?



Sorry, I'm late...

Yes, of course, there is the video:










The sound is more strong when I put settings at very high in the game, and the sound is clearly coming from the PSU.

It didn't shutdown because I turned off the home theater (The PC did shutdown with the home theater ON in 2, 3 seconds after putting very high settings... everything is in the same line filter - monitor, PC and home theater).


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## newtekie1 (Jul 20, 2015)

Sounds like a combo of coil whine and a fan bearing to me.

Also, a home theater system shouldn't be causing the PC to shut down unless there is some massive interference put out by it.


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## Saru (Jul 20, 2015)

newtekie1 said:


> Sounds like a combo of coil whine and a fan bearing to me.
> 
> Also, a home theater system shouldn't be causing the PC to shut down unless there is some massive interference put out by it.



You can hear the sound in 1:14.

When I put very high settings, in 2:46


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## Saru (Jul 25, 2015)

I bought a Thermaltake 650W 80 Plus Gold.

PC running Archeage in very high settings for 30 hours without any shutdown.

Its solved.

Thank you, guys.


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## EarthDog (Jul 28, 2015)

Hope it is a good PSU. Thermaltake is hit and miss...

Glad it solved the issue though.


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## GreiverBlade (Jul 28, 2015)

EarthDog said:


> Hope it is a good PSU. Thermaltake is hit and miss...
> 
> Glad it solved the issue though.


indeed hit and miss ... i had a Smart SE 630 who behaved quite good and got no hiccups, and i also had a Tr2 who went ... pop


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