# My ASUS RT-N66U Router Died. Well, Sort of...



## Sasqui (Aug 13, 2020)

Get up the other morning, no wireless from my router, at all... dead.  Check it out and all the lights are off, the AC adapter has a blue light glowing (it's plugged into an APC UPS backup) and the wire is plugged into the router.  No lights on the router itself, no signal. So I try this:


Unplug everything and plug it back in, lights on the router are still out
Press the reset button, the lights come on...
Continue to hold the reset button, and now I have wireless again
Put a rubber band (and a few coins) on the reset button and it's now up and working full time

Question: WTF?  The router has been absolutely flawless for years now.  I'd like to get an AC router so what to get, or should I bother?  I can post a topology map if it's helpful.


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 13, 2020)

I think you might mean the power switch; this is a well known problem with the 66U


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## Sasqui (Aug 13, 2020)

Anwar.Shiekh said:


> I think you might mean the power switch; this is a well known problem with the 66U








LOL, yea, it's the power button that I thought was the reset button, duh.  I guess the switch mechanism just failed?  Still working, so the rubber band is the weak link now... I'll shop for a new AC router come cyber Monday.  Thanks.


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 13, 2020)

Found what looks like the switch


			https://uk.farnell.com/c-k-components/pn12sjna03qe/pb-switch-spdt-0-2a-30vdc-tht/dp/2931690?ost=PN12SJNA03QE&ddkey=https%3Aen-GB%2FElement14_United_Kingdom%2Fsearch


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## Sasqui (Aug 14, 2020)

Anwar.Shiekh said:


> Found what looks like the switch
> 
> 
> https://uk.farnell.com/c-k-components/pn12sjna03qe/pb-switch-spdt-0-2a-30vdc-tht/dp/2931690?ost=PN12SJNA03QE&ddkey=https%3Aen-GB%2FElement14_United_Kingdom%2Fsearch



Eh, the rubber band works for now, and I wanted an excuse to upgrade. It's been a stellar router otherwise


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## TheLostSwede (Aug 14, 2020)

Netgear R7800/X4S. Unfortunately it's sold out all over the place right now.
Best router I've ever owned, hands down. It also gets a lot of support through Voxel's excellent firmware, which means you get the latest security patches etc.
I wouldn't even look at the current generation of 802.11ax hardware, as both the hardware and the firmware isn't there. Lots of asterisks on the packaging with suggestions that the feature will come in a future firmware update. Some of these products have been out of a year by now and the promised features are apparently still missing. Some of the hardware also either support feature X or Y, not both, even though both are part of the standard...


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## hat (Aug 14, 2020)

As a fellow RT-N66U owner, I would just try to fix the power button. But that's me, and my situation doesn't call for a stronger router or faster wifi. You make that call.


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 14, 2020)

I'm the same, and would replace the switch; they are even still updating the firmware for this model.


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## Sasqui (Aug 14, 2020)

hat said:


> As a fellow RT-N66U owner, I would just try to fix the power button. But that's me, and my situation doesn't call for a stronger router or faster wifi. You make that call.



It's working fine with the rubber band.  I'd probably break it trying to fix it.  If the rubber band breaks,. I'll use zip ties, haha


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 14, 2020)

Good point, one has to be good with a soldering iron.


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## Bill_Bright (Aug 14, 2020)

Sasqui said:


> It's working fine with the rubber band. I'd probably break it trying to fix it. If the rubber band breaks,. I'll use zip ties, haha


Even though this is relatively low voltage DC, using a rubber band or tie wrap to hold a "faulty" power button down temporarily for testing is one thing. But for extended periods is a bad/risky idea. The risk of fire at those voltages may be low, but with a faulty switch, they are too high! 

I strongly urge you to bite the bullet and unplug that router and run to your nearest Walmart or Best Buy and buy a new router immediately. Even if it is an el-cheapo supreme, temporary replacement router to hold you over for now, so you have time to research and get the next router you really want, I urge you to pull that broken router from your network. 

Even if the risk of fire is remote (and I say it is higher than "remote"), the risk of something shorting out and dumping excessive and destructive voltages on one or more of the Ethernet ports is a distinct possibility too. Those voltages could go upstream to zap your modem, or down to one of your Ethernet connected computers - or both. 

A quick search of Walmart.com shows my local Walmart has several wireless routers in stock for ~$25. Not the best, obviously, but it will get you on-line - safely and hold you over until you find the one you really want.


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## INSTG8R (Aug 14, 2020)

I have a working one I would just box up and send you. I was using it as a repeater before I finally bought a proper base/satellite setup. But it’s definitely a good excuse to upgrade.


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## Sasqui (Aug 14, 2020)

INSTG8R said:


> I have a working one I would just box up and send you. I was using it as a repeater before I finally bought a proper base/satellite setup. But it’s definitely a good excuse to upgrade.



What do you have for your setup now?  I have a detached garage (carriage house), I'd like to have coverage for it eventually. I was thinking of pulling a CAT6 cable out to it as I have to lay some duct work anyways to replace the overhead power that's showing it's age.


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## INSTG8R (Aug 14, 2020)

I went with Netgear Orbi. I live in a 2 bedroom basement apartment and signal is absolutely terrible for some reason. I wouldn’t recommend them despite messing with settings and even a few firmware upgrades it crashes randomly. The only reason I kept them was because they were mispriced considerably. When it works it works great and having a single AP for everything is nice too.


			https://www.netgear.com/images/datasheet/orbi/RBK20.pdf


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## dirtyferret (Aug 14, 2020)

Anwar.Shiekh said:


> I think you might mean the power switch; this is a well known problem with the 66U


+1, luckily my 66U never had the issue but this goes back several years








						Broken power button
					

My stupid power button broke.  It no longer "sticks" shut.  And I wasn't even near the router when it broke, it was powered up in normal operating mode and just shut down on its own.  How ridiculous is that?  I've never even heard of such a thing on a moderately high quality piece of consumer...




					www.snbforums.com


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## Bill_Bright (Aug 14, 2020)

It is really odd these "mechanical" switches are breaking when nobody is touching them. I can see a switch wearing out under normal use after 1000s of pushes. Or even breaking after the first couple pushes. But when no one is around? That's pretty sad. 

Back in my radio maintenance days, instead of "gremlins" we used to call that "FM" - not for "frequency modulation", but for a certain type of magic!


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 22, 2020)

Seems the failing switches have blue stems, so I got a non blue stem switch from Digi-Key for $7 with postage






						PN12SJNA03QE C&K | Switches | DigiKey
					

Order today, ships today. PN12SJNA03QE – Pushbutton Switch SPDT Standard Through Hole, Right Angle from C&K. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.




					www.digikey.com
				




it seems to work just fine


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## Bill_Bright (Aug 22, 2020)

The fact the shafts are blue, green, white, purple polkadot or whatever has nothing to do with this. There are no industry standards for the shafts on these type switches. They aren't "Cherry" keyboard switches, for example. So it is entirely up to each switch manufacturer what color (if any) plastic shaft they use. What really matters is the physical size of the switch, the "throw", the tension on the return spring and the contact's voltage and current capability inside the switch housing. 

The only color coding there might be would be would be in the final application - that is, once installed in the piece of electronics - for the button "cap" or "head" - the part your finger pushes to activate the switch. Red, for example, might be used for "Emergency Stop".


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 22, 2020)

The point is that each manufacturer picks their own color for the switch stem, so blue represents the switch from the manufacturer that that has problems; by changing color I am changing manufacturer. I believe the blue may be made by E-switch and the black and white by C&K

That the failing switches had blue stems was from








						Broken power button
					

Man I joined the club about a year and a half ago on my AC66U.  Now there's a nut and electrical tape holding it down   Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk




					www.snbforums.com
				











						Broken power button
					

Plugging & unplugging coaxial plugs is lame. The other end of the cord works too. It is really such a small challenge to reach it since I need it only every few months.




					www.snbforums.com
				











						Broken power button
					

If anyone has examined the switch wiring with the cover off, can you confirm true or false for that?    It might be a multilayer PCB (more than two layers). If so, then just looking might not be enough.  When I desolder the old, broken switch, I can use a multimeter in continuity testing mode...




					www.snbforums.com
				




I wanted to avoid the manufacturer using blue as people said that even repairs from ASUS would fail after a time.

So, yes, the color has everything to do with this; I just assumed this logic was obvious and I didn't need to waste time explaining it.


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## Bill_Bright (Aug 22, 2020)

Anwar.Shiekh said:


> So, yes, the color has everything to do with this; I just assumed this logic was obvious and I didn't need to waste time explaining it.


No the color does not. So your assumption and logic are wrong. If you believe otherwise, please show us the IEEE standard that dictates the color coding. 

For starters we don't even know the manufacturer of the switch used in the OP's router. You are just guessing and saying you "believe" you do. There are 100s of pushbutton switch suppliers across the globe. . 

I did not see the manufacturer or part number in any of your links. Can you show us? 

We cannot even assume ASUS is using the same supplier for those switches in every one of these routers. It is common for manufacturers to change suppliers from one production run to another as another supplier may offer ASUS a better price. 

These switches are not color-coded.


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 22, 2020)

PN12SJNA03QE C&K | Switches | DigiKey
					

Order today, ships today. PN12SJNA03QE – Pushbutton Switch SPDT Standard Through Hole, Right Angle from C&K. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.




					www.digikey.com
				



for the C&K






						LC1258EENP E-Switch | Switches | DigiKey
					

Order today, ships today. LC1258EENP – Pushbutton Switch SPDT Standard Through Hole, Right Angle from E-Switch. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.




					www.digikey.com
				



for the E-switch

My task was to find a way to locate a replacement that was not the original. I gave evidence that failed switches seem to have blue stems and the manufacturer and part numbers of alternatives were in my links to Farnell and Digi-Key.

Now if you can show that C&K have this switch with a blue stem, I will stand corrected; for me blue was a color code saying 'not C&K'. I installed the C&K replacement and it works fine, so I thought to share my experience.

Is it possible that ASUS are not using E-switch, absolutely, but I needed to locate a logic that would work given that I did not know all the details.


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## Bill_Bright (Aug 22, 2020)

Anwar.Shiekh said:


> Now if you can show that C&K have this switch with a blue stem, I will stand corrected.


 There would be no purpose in that. 

We have no indication C&K or E-switch manufactured that switch in the OP's router! It could have been any number of other manufacturers. 

Nor is there any indication both C&K and E-switch use Blue to identify some spec. Blue is just a color. It does not indicate a particular mechanical or electrical characteristic. I don't understand why you are stuck on colors. They mean nothing here. 

But I will agree with you on one thing - let's just leave it.


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## Caring1 (Aug 23, 2020)

Anwar.Shiekh said:


> Seems the failing switches have blue stems, so I got a non blue stem switch from Digi-Key for $7 with postage
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I get it, it's due to different manufacturers using different materials.
Bill appears to have confused this to mean colour represents a standard.


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 23, 2020)

Bill is a good guy and we need more of his sort around, but yes I was just trying to avoid replacing like with like.


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## Bill_Bright (Aug 23, 2020)

Caring1 said:


> Bill appears to have confused this to mean colour represents a standard.


Actually, I am the one trying to avoid confusion by clarifying that color does NOT represent a standard - at least not with pushbutton switches. For example, C&K makes over 55,000 products and over 8.5 million switch combinations (source)! Surely each switch they manufacture does not have its own unique color. That would make for a logistics nightmare, not to mention increased costs. 



Anwar.Shiekh said:


> I was just trying to avoid replacing like with like.


And that would be a wise course of action - if only we knew the brand and model number of the switch used in the OPs router. 

Still, I think if we look at the big picture, ASUS must use this switch in multiple routers they produce and there most likely are 100s of 1000s if not millions of ASUS routers in use around the world. If we do our homework and research the number of actual switch failures, I think we will find the percentage to be miniscule. 

But as so often happens with the big names in this industry (ASUS, Gigabyte, MSI, Microsoft, Dell, Intel, etc.) reports of any problems, no matter how small, get repeated, amplified, exaggerated and repeated again until it appears the world is doomed. 

I don't know about others but I rarely ever hit the power switch on my wireless router. I think I have done so maybe 3 times in the last 3 years! It makes me wonder if in some of those cases, the switches mechanism isn't just getting gummed up with dust due to a lack of use. That said, I typically just pull the plug but even then, I can't remember the last time I had to do that. But then I do suffer occasionally from flareups of *GCF!




* geriatric cranial flatulence


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 23, 2020)

What intrigues me is that the C&K switch is rated at 200mA DC and the E-switch (which I avoided) is rated at 300mA DC
Seems the unit boots at 250mA and runs at 500mA


			ASUS RT-N66U (Wifi router) uses 9.66 watts
		

This may not be of any relevance as what was failing was the mechanical part of the switch and not electrical, although one might argue that with too much current the switch itself might be getting hot.

It may be only the N66U and AC66U that use this switch








						Broken power button
					

Man I joined the club about a year and a half ago on my AC66U.  Now there's a nut and electrical tape holding it down   Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk




					www.snbforums.com
				




What worries me is this guy who has seem 3 failures on 3 units








						Broken power button
					

Plugging & unplugging coaxial plugs is lame. The other end of the cord works too. It is really such a small challenge to reach it since I need it only every few months.




					www.snbforums.com
				





The problem here is that the switch does not break with use, but just sitting there (that is how this thread began), so even if you only use it 3 times there still may be an issue.

The unit consumes at least $10 of electricity a year, so a $7 switch seemed like a good investment to be sure it would not just turn itself off.


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## Sasqui (Aug 24, 2020)

Anwar.Shiekh said:


> What intrigues me is that the C&K switch is rated at 200mA DC and the E-switch (which I avoided) is rated at 300mA DC
> Seems the unit boots at 250mA and runs at 500mA
> 
> 
> ...



Agreed, I hadn't touched the power button in years, it just failed when it felt like it. The router gets warm so maybe there's a material in the switch that degrades with heat, or just degrades and some tiny latch breaks.  The router itself is fine, and still working fine with a makeshift button holder.

I'm going to limp it along until Cyber Monday... and replace it then.  It works fine though I'd probably see improvements depending on use cases.  So I'll stick with it for now. Knowing my luck, if I try to replace the button, I'll render the unit useless.

I'm eyeing this upgrade: (Archer A9):  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NF3K74H/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 24, 2020)

One needs to be good with a soldering iron as there are a lot of ground planes stealing heat; being willing to destroy the original switch helps as then one can remove pins separately.

It is the plastic that fails (picture taken from another persons post).


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## dirtyferret (Aug 24, 2020)

Sasqui said:


> I'm eyeing this upgrade: (Archer A9):  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NF3K74H/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1


It's an excellent router, just as fast as my Asus ac66u B1 and Netgear r6700v3


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## Bill_Bright (Aug 24, 2020)

Sasqui said:


> Agreed, I hadn't touched the power button in years, it just failed when it felt like it.


If me, before declaring it is broken, I would give it a couple blasts with some quality electrical contact cleaner. I recommend using CRC QD Electronic Cleaner or WD-40 Electrical Contact Cleaner. Typically, the power from the spray is enough for most cleaning jobs. Try getting the cleaner inside the switch then press the switch button a few times to scrape the contacts and locking mechanism clean and [hopefully - fingers crossed] restore functionality. 

As far as replacing the switch if the contact cleaner is unsuccessful, that is an option. But an easier, safer, permanent and "free" fix might be to just solder in a couple jumpers, bypassing (shorting out) the switch altogether so that the router is always "On" when plugged in. Then in the future should you need to reset the device, you do what we all used to have to do before switches were included with home routers; you unplug the power for 30 seconds or so, then plug it back in. 

I think this is a better solution than using a rubber band to hold the switch down. For one, it is permanent. The rubber bands will rot and break. For another, soldering in a jumper provides a solid "mechanical" connection - always essential for the best (zero resistance) electrical connection and maximum continuity. The rubber band solution could still allow dust and debris between the contacts and perhaps even some carbon build up. Not good. 

You would need to use a multimeter to determine which contacts are "made" (shorted) when the button is pushed to the "On" position, then solder in a short little jumper wire. You don't need power connected to do this. Another advantage to using jumpers is you don't have to remove the switch which could pose the risk of damaging the PCB. 

****

Note that soldering is skill. And like all skills, needs to be regularly practiced to get and remain good at them. If you don't feel comfortable with a soldering iron, there certainly is no shame in that. If you don't have a good soldering pencil and an old PCB to practice on, I am sure you can find a local tech who will run a couple jumpers for you for a nominal fee. A skilled and properly equipped tech could probably do the job in 15-20 minutes.


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 24, 2020)

The relevant pins are so close a dab of solder would connect them, but getting the case open is no easy task and a plate needs to be removed to get to the pins.









						Electronics Repair Shop - Meet our Advanced Technicians
					

Learn more about our electronics repair shop and what our team can do to help you. We offer advanced micro soldering, cuircuit board work, and more.




					northridgefix.com
				



do mail in repairs but I don't know how much they might charge (the switch itself is less than $2 before postage)


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## Sasqui (Aug 26, 2020)

Thanks to @jboydgolfer  - I have now the big brother, the RT-AC66 , I was considering it back in 2013/2014 when I got the RT-N66 but the price difference was huge and AC was just adopted.

@jboydgolfe sent it for free!   Another TPU hero, pay it forward.


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 26, 2020)

A ray of light in a world that seems so dark these days.


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## Sasqui (Aug 26, 2020)

Anwar.Shiekh said:


> A ray of light in a world that seems so dark these days.



True... though there's a lot of light if you look for it.  I don;t want to say a million points of light, that'd be political, lol.


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 26, 2020)

How hot does the RT-AC66U get compared to the RT-N66U?

At 10W the RT-N66U is costing me $10 a year


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## Sasqui (Aug 26, 2020)

Anwar.Shiekh said:


> How hot does the RT-AC66U get compared to the RT-N66U?
> 
> At 10W the RT-N66U is costing me $10 a year



Quite hot, I'd say more than the N66.  I should pop my Kill-A-Watt on it and see what the draw is.  Can't right now, WiFi is in use


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 26, 2020)

Those Kill-A-Watt units are great, even if the screen started to fade on mine after a few years. Opened it up, put some silicone oil on the contacts to the screen and it has been good ever since.


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## AsRock (Aug 26, 2020)

Bill_Bright said:


> It is really odd these "mechanical" switches are breaking when nobody is touching them. I can see a switch wearing out under normal use after 1000s of pushes. Or even breaking after the first couple pushes. But when no one is around? That's pretty sad.
> 
> Back in my radio maintenance days, instead of "gremlins" we used to call that "FM" - not for "frequency modulation", but for a certain type of magic!



I bet some times it's just dirt on a tiny point of contact.

EDIT: I guess the days of dirt being the probable course have for the most part gone.


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 26, 2020)

It is not the contact that failed but the switch auto-magically pops out to the off position and won't latch in the on position any more.


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## dirtyferret (Aug 26, 2020)

Anwar.Shiekh said:


> How hot does the RT-AC66U get compared to the RT-N66U?
> 
> At 10W the RT-N66U is costing me $10 a year



They are the practicaly the exact same router with both suffering from the power button issue.  I owned both and never had that issue with either one but the internet is full of posts on the issue with these routers, probably one of the reasons Asus went to vertical stands soon after.  The original AC66u is a draft AC router based on the broadcom 4706 (same as the n66u) using the BCM4331 for the N signal (same as the n66u) and they added the BCM4360 chip for the AC signal.  If you recall this was also around the time Netgear sued Asus for using too much power in their routers. 

FYI, Asus settled with netgear but was also fined by the FCC.


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 26, 2020)

I may not have needed to change my button, but am glad it is now done.


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## AsRock (Aug 26, 2020)

Anwar.Shiekh said:


> It is not the contact that failed but the switch auto-magically pops out to the off position and won't latch in the on position any more.



So wear on some plastic or the metal bents or some thing,  either way seems a little cheap.


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 26, 2020)

dirtyferret said:


> If you recall this was also around the time Netgear sued Asus for using too much power in their routers.
> 
> FYI, Asus settled with netgear but was also fined by the FCC.




Did they reduce the power in subsequent firmware?


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## Bill_Bright (Aug 26, 2020)

AsRock said:


> EDIT: I guess the days of dirt being the probable course have for the most part gone.


If the device has mechanical components - that is, if it has moving parts, and the device is not sealed, dirt, moisture and corrosion can still easily be a factor. Time is a factor too, but so is the environment. A non-smoking, one-person, no pet, airconditioned newer home will certainly pose a much cleaner environment than a multi-person home with rug-rats and pets running around, stirring up dust, shedding dander, and coming into and out of the house all the time.


AsRock said:


> So wear on some plastic or the metal bents or some thing, either way seems a little cheap.


Could be wear, but it could also be crud/contaminants gumming up the works. That's why I suggested contact cleaner before going to extremes with a soldering iron and potentially causing irreparable damage. 

Again, how often is a router's power switch actually used? Switches, even cheap ones, are designed to be pushed, thrown, or flipped 1000s of times. It seems very unlikely to me these switches are wearing out. 

It is more likely they are dirty, or there's a flaw in the design and/or manufacturing. But because in normal installations, most users rarely ever use the switch to power off their routers, any flaw in design or manufacturing goes undetected. 

It really would be good if the actual manufacturer and part number of those switches could be determined for then we could easily see if that switch is still being produced. And if still produced, if ASUS is still using them in this application. But it is unlikely we will ever know that information.


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## dirtyferret (Aug 26, 2020)

Anwar.Shiekh said:


> Did they reduce the power in subsequent firmware?


NETGEAR notified ASUS of its intention to sue in early July. Since then, ASUS has posted multiple new versions of firmware for the products named in the suit that NETGEAR says lower transmit power. 

If you recall Asus and Merlin at one time allowed the user to adjust power in UI settings.


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## Sasqui (Aug 26, 2020)

dirtyferret said:


> If you recall this was also around the time Netgear sued Asus for using too much power in their routers.



Seems VW stole that playbook


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 26, 2020)

Ah yes

The Volks WiFi ;-)


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## Bill_Bright (Aug 26, 2020)

Sasqui said:


> Seems VW stole that playbook


More like the other way around - since the VW scandal began way before the Netgear vs ASUS feud. Beyond that, it would be pretty stupid to use a stolen playbook that resulted in the company being fined $billions and the authors of that playbook getting to vacation 7 years in federal prison!


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 29, 2020)

Finally got to photograph an undamaged mechanism; seems to be based on a series of ramp/steps to avoid returning immediately to the same position.
Looks like it is the middle (chevron) catch that breaks on failure, perhaps because the spring was too strong.


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## Sasqui (Aug 29, 2020)

Anwar.Shiekh said:


> Finally got to photograph an undamaged mechanism; seems to be based on a series of ramp/steps to avoid returning immediately to the same position.
> Looks like it is the middle (chevron) catch that breaks on failure, perhaps because the spring was too strong.



A combination, that and simple material failure. I'm guessing heat from the router plays into it as well. My unit was mounted on a wall for 6+ years, button at the top where all the heat flows. Just speculating.


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 29, 2020)

I got a little hung up on wanting to understand how such switches latch and am happy to have that out of the way.


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## Bill_Bright (Aug 29, 2020)

Anwar.Shiekh said:


> Looks like it is the middle (chevron) catch that breaks on failure


Could be, but without seeing a damaged part to compare it with, that is is just speculation. The problem could be the point where that chevron catch latches on to. It could be rounded off due to wear or misaligned due to a design or manufacturing defect. 

I really don't see this being caused by heat - unless the router was faulty and essentially on fire! While there are some plastics with relatively low melting points, it would make no sense to use those plastics in electronics - especially one where the part is used in an application where strength and rigidity is required - like a major component inside a push button switch. 

If you look at the melting point of common plastics, most are well above 100°C. If you look at the spec sheet for the operating temperature for that ASUS router, it is up to 40°C. If you look at the data sheet for this switch, the operating range is up to 85°C. 60°C will leave 2nd degree burns on your skin. Temperatures above 72°C will destroy your skin on contact. Then look at the materials section and note the actuator is made of Acetal. Acetal has a melting point of 162°C! That's 323.6°F and water boils at 100°C or 212°F. 

That Farnell switch uses PA 66 (polyamide 66) for the actuator. As seen here (look at datasheet), PA 66 has a melting point of 258°C and a long term service temperature of 100°C. Long term service temperature is "_the maximum acceptable temperature above which mechanical properties (tensile strength, impact strength) or electrical properties (dielectric strength, linked to insulation properties) of a plastic part are significantly degrading, over the reasonable life time of the tested product. _"

Conclusion - that switch would have to be operating in temperatures over 100°C (212°F) for extended periods (170°C/338°F short term) before it's tensile and impact strength degraded. Therefore, I refuse to believe failure of these switches is caused by heat.


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 29, 2020)

Here is a damaged part (from a picture I posted earlier in this thread); I didn't take the picture but the chevron looks missing.

Concerning heat, I recall hanging cables in an underground station that were sagging and was told that over the years they had been stretching, I think the same may be true of plastics far below melting temperature (they talk about the plastic region for metals).

If one touches the front of the unit it is a good bit above body temperature.

Remember that one theory was that the spring was too strong; that chevron is quite small. We are not talking melting but rather softening of the plastic.


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## Bill_Bright (Aug 29, 2020)

Too small and blurry for my eyes. 


Anwar.Shiekh said:


> Concerning heat, I recall hanging cables in an underground station that were sagging and was told that over the years they had been stretching, I think the same may be true of plastics far below melting temperature (they talk about the plastic region for metals).


 That has nothing to do with the price of rice in China in the summertime - or with these switches. Hung cable stretches due to the effects of gravity and the weight of the cable. The plastics in these tiny switches are not impacted in that way. 

Lets keep it real. 



Anwar.Shiekh said:


> If one touches the front of the unit it is a good bit above body temperature.


So what? For one, "a good bit" means nothing in a technical discussion. For another, if you (or your skin) can tolerate the heat and not be damaged when touching something "a good bit" above body temperature, that in no way suggests the plastics inside are melting or even becoming soft, malformed or disfigured.


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 29, 2020)

Bill_Bright said:


> Hung cable stretches due to the effects of gravity and the weight of the cable. The plastics in these tiny switches are not impacted in that way.
> 
> Lets keep it real.




Seriously? that chevron is holding back the spring 24/7


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## Bill_Bright (Aug 29, 2020)

Anwar.Shiekh said:


> Seriously? that chevron is holding back the spring 24/7


You mean exactly like it is supposed to do?   Like the millions of switches of that type used in millions of devices do everyday, day in and day out, year after year after year with no problems?

Come on! Find one of those specific ASUS routers with one of those specific failed switches, expose the innards of the switch and THEN we can talk specifics. Until then, you are just guessing, hypothesizing, speculating and making conjectures based on insufficient data - not even anecdotal evidence! 

I must have a dozen or more of those type switches in devices here (including my own router and 4 Ethernet switches) and none have failed in that manner (or any other manner for that matter). Does that prove I am right and you are wrong? NO!

"*IF*" those switches are failing because the chevron latch on those plastic actuators cannot support the strength of the spring over long term use, then *obviously*, there is either a manufacturing defect or a design flaw in the construction of that specific part number. A design flaw would be the engineers selected the wrong spring, or they selected the wrong type plastic, or they failed to make that chevron latch big and strong enough - that is, human error! Not a limitation with plastics in general as you seem to be suggesting.  

"*IF*" what you keep trying to suggest where true, then every similar push button switch in every router, every modem, every device ever made would have failed or will soon fail in the same way - that is, that little chevron latch wore out. And that is simply nonsense!

You don't know the manufacturer of the switches used in those ASUS routers. 
You don't know the part number of the switches used in those ASUS routers.
You don't know how those switches used in those ASUS routers failed.

EVERYTHING you have posed here are simply guesses and suppositions. Yes, you might be right. But you could just as easily be wrong.


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 29, 2020)

I sent a picture of a failed switch. Everything I have posed here are simple guesses? The pictures included?

Sure I could be wrong. I tried the best I could in the circumstances; replacing the switch while at the same time trying to avoid doing so with the same switch.

"not even anecdotal evidence"; all those Web pages of failures do not count?

I just don't understand the aggression; I thought we were both trying to figure this out. Work together.

Concerning
"then *obviously*, there is either a manufacturing defect or a design flaw in the construction of that specific part number "​you forgot that the unit actually draws more DC current than the switch is speced for, so that is a third option.

Did I suggest they used the wrong plastic, or that they used the plastic wrongly? or neither; maybe they started using a stronger spring.
You earlier seem convinced that I was claiming color represented specs and proceeded to attack that (a straw man argument). Color was a
way to try and locate another manufacturer without actually knowing the original manufacturer.

Sure "*IF*"  I had known all the part numbers, I could have known more, but perhaps still not enough to know why switches were failing;
and I DON'T think the chevron latch wore out... things failed just sitting there, so yes, that would be nonsense.

I though we were making progress as to how (perhaps/maybe) the switch might be failing. For me it was a fun project with a tangible outcome.
I learned a lot (how a latching switch works) and modified my unit even if it perhaps didn't really need any repair. You were part of that learning
process by questioning conjectures. One normally thinks of a switch as a simple device, but here I learned that perhaps even the strength of the
return spring is important. For that I thank you, but it would have been nice had it been a little less caustic. Then again, perhaps it was called for.


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## Bill_Bright (Aug 29, 2020)

Anwar.Shiekh said:


> I sent a picture of a failed switch. Everything I have posed here are simple guesses? The pictures included?


"A" failed switch?   

Why don't you get this?  Is that picture a picture of the exact same switch used in these routers? YOU DON'T KNOW!!!! You are simply guessing then assuming what you see in your switch is exactly what is happening in those other switches. 


Anwar.Shiekh said:


> I just don't understand the aggression; I thought we were both trying to figure this out. Work together.


It is not aggression. It is frustration. You are convinced you know exactly what is wrong when YOU DON'T KNOW the maker of the switch or the part number of the switch, or even how the actual failed switch failed. You are guessing at every point along the way. 

First you found a picture of a switch that "look like the switch". It was made by C & K. Note it is "black". 
Then you decided the failing switches were "blue" and you insisted blue had to represent some value. So getting a different color would solve all your worries. And you were claiming color represented specs. See your own post number #19 where YOU said, 


Anwar.Shiekh said:


> So, yes, the color has everything to do with this



Then you guessed the chevron "breaks" upon failure - guessing it is because the spring is too strong. Now you are convinced it didn't wear out. 



Anwar.Shiekh said:


> Concerning
> "then *obviously*, there is either a manufacturing defect or a design flaw in the construction of that specific part number "you forgot that the unit actually draws more DC current than the switch is speced for, so that is a third option.


Come on! That is more nonsense. If the router draws more power than the switch is designed for, then that is a design flaw! The engineers screwed up and picked the wrong part. Human error! And in any case, that would NOT cause the switch to break in this manner. Instead, it would be a safety issues likely to result in a recall. 

So again, you just keep guessing, hypothesizing, speculating and making conjectures based on insufficient data! And until we learn the specific switch by brand and part number, guesses is all it will be. 

I see no reason to beat this dead horse any longer.


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## Deleted member 191766 (Aug 29, 2020)

OK, I'm done.


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