# Awful WC temperatures



## pantherx12 (Jul 1, 2012)

Having a real crappy time at the moment using this set up.

FX8120
EK surpreme
Thermaltake 500lph pump ( comes with big water kits and lcs kits)
thermaltake resovoir
Thermaltake double radiator ( not sure what this is made from came with the lcs)
3/8 tubing ( I know 1/2 is better but AIO wc manage with smaller tubing)


At 4ghz 1.3150 volts I hit 50c with intelburn test, at 1.4650 and 4.5ghz temperatures can reach cut off points!

Mostly stays at 58 but occasionally will just suddenly jump to 72 ( and if I don't shut down fast enough it will get to cut off temp)


Any ideas? Or do I just need to upgrade something?

Really frustrating as I just sold a Big water 760 plus I had and a thermal right silver arrow!


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## CaptainFailcon (Jul 1, 2012)

the 8150's are voltage hungry and hott running 
the temps that you listed are what I would expect to see with you're loop
get a better RAD like a 240mm or some higher static pressure fans ... 
you can try the old reapplying thermal paste and resenting but I think that's as good as you are gonna get from either live with 4@1.3 or change the rad
a few min at 72c isn't gonna kill it AMD's  specs are all over the place no one really knows what there really rated for AMD says 61c but somehow I think that's a arbitrary number and hasn't been really tested


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## baggpipes (Jul 1, 2012)

Got everything in your bios set right?


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## pantherx12 (Jul 1, 2012)

CaptainFailcon said:


> the 8150's are voltage hungry and hott running
> the temps that you listed are what I would expect to see with you're loop
> get a better RAD like a 240mm or some higher static pressure fans ...
> you can try the old reapplying thermal paste and resenting but I think that's as good as you are gonna get from either live with 4@1.3 or change the rad
> a few min at 72c isn't gonna kill it AMD's  specs are all over the place no one really knows what there really rated for AMD says 61c but somehow I think that's a arbitrary number and hasn't been really tested


Thank you for the suggestions
I have a 240 rad and I have two high pressure fans : ] 
You see the problem this set up should be better than a silver arrow, but it's no where even close to match it. Let alone beating it.


baggpipes said:


> Got everything in your bios set right?



Yeah everything is fine bios wise.



*edit* After accidentally ripping my cpu from the socket ( Arctic silver ceramic is to sticky!) and scraping of some access tim temps are much better!

@4ghz 30c underload  huzzah!


Either my cpu has degraded overtime or latest bios for my board is crappy. need 1.472 volts for 4.5ghz stable but temperatures hit 62 c ( don't go over though) So at this point I'm matching my old silver arrow.

Maybe this rad is made of aluminium. 

Reckon another radiator is worth a try?


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## CaptainFailcon (Jul 1, 2012)

WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO boy ceramic`e is  GLUE its semi-permanent once it harder's completely
use something like MX4


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## pantherx12 (Jul 1, 2012)

CaptainFailcon said:


> WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO boy ceramic`e is  GLUE its semi-permanent once it harder's completely
> use something like MX4



O rly? Well balls! I'll clean it tomorrow and use some generic grey gloop 

I thought ceramic was just the non conductive paste Arctic silver make.


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## CaptainFailcon (Jul 1, 2012)

well more correctly its not classified as a glue but it gets mighty hard when it sets up
MX4 is also currently at least in my book the best non-conductive paste you can get


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## XNine (Jul 1, 2012)

I use PK1 Nano.  Stuff is like... a very fluid putty, and it cleans off well too.  I've never had an issue with temps using PK1 Nano either.


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## Nordic (Jul 1, 2012)

I used to use tuniq but I can never find any for sale when I am buying paste. I use mx-4 instead now. Its good stuff. In reviews I have read tuniq and mx-2/4 got the best temps.


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## pantherx12 (Jul 3, 2012)

Okay I've changed pastes, temperatures are still fairly damn toasty.

Didn't leave it to run because I'll crash for other reasons but @4.5 1.42v hit about 51 before it's even finished one run.

At the moment I have the air from the radiator blowing into the case ( 2 fans) about 120cfm total before they have to push through the rad) then I have about 90-100 cfm being pulled out the back and the case has a mesh roof to allow excess air to escape.

How ever I was wondering if this i the optimal set up.

this is the case I'm using http://techgage.com/article/thermaltake_armor_lcs_ve2000bws/


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## Yin (Jul 3, 2012)

I would have the radiators on the out side of the case.

Also can you do some basic checks, find out which one gets hot first the cpu or the radiator. If radiator, you need a better one or more. If CPU and radiator remains cool. You need to move the heat away from the cpu faster. Pump upgrade.


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## micropage7 (Jul 3, 2012)

pantherx12 said:


> Okay I've changed pastes, temperatures are still fairly damn toasty.
> 
> Didn't leave it to run because I'll crash for other reasons but @4.5 1.42v hit about 51 before it's even finished one run.
> 
> ...



so i guess the paste is not the problem
how long you use the rads?
have you tried flushing the rad before, just to make sure that it flows well


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## pantherx12 (Jul 3, 2012)

Yin said:


> I would have the radiators on the out side of the case.
> 
> Also can you do some basic checks, find out which one gets hot first the cpu or the radiator. If radiator, you need a better one or more. If CPU and radiator remains cool. You need to move the heat away from the cpu faster. Pump upgrade.




Do you mean by touching the block and touching the radiator?

If so neither get hot at all. So it's the pump that's no good? ( or in a bad position) at the moment it's on the floor pumping water UP to the CPU block. 




micropage7 said:


> so i guess the paste is not the problem
> how long you use the rads?
> have you tried flushing the rad before, just to make sure that it flows well




Asides from blowing through it to clear the last lot of fluid that was in it I've not flushed it ( but air/liquid came flying out so I imagine rad is clear, block is definitely clear I done that with a tooth brush )


Thanks for assistance guys.  It's really annoying to put so much money into something and it not be better than what you were using  ( like when I went from a 1055t to an fx8120!)


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## Aquinus (Jul 3, 2012)

How much compound are you using? High temps could be attributed to using too much paste, because those temps are kind of high for WC at those voltages imho. Is your radiator getting toasty? Have pictures with how you have it setup? It might help to know how you're loop is routed.


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## Wrigleyvillain (Jul 3, 2012)

Hmm I have a spare loop lying around I was going to try and sell for like $50 but seeing as how your such an awesome guy (heh heh) maybe I'll just send it to you.

The block is an Apogee GTZ though and idk about mounting for that socket. Not sure I have everything it came with anymore either...

Edit: At the very least I have a pump I can give you. IDK about that TT crap.


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## pantherx12 (Jul 3, 2012)

I'm using a small amount of compound just enough for a thin layer.

The radiator doesn't get warm as far as I can tell. 

But I'll leave intelburnin going for ten minutes ( if I don't crash ) and report back.

also picture 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Rad is tucked away in the 5.25 area.

Got a gentle typhoon 1850 and some 1600rpm 120x38 delta type fan.




Wrigleyvillain said:


> Hmm I have a spare loop lying around I was going to try and sell for like $50 but seeing as how your such an awesome guy (heh heh) maybe I'll just send it to you.
> 
> The block is an Apogee GTZ though and idk about mounting for that socket. Not sure I have everything it came with anymore either...
> 
> Edit: At the very least I have a pump I can give you. IDK about that TT crap.



That would be awesome man! after I got my current pump sold I'd give you the money from the sale.


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## Wrigleyvillain (Jul 3, 2012)

Nah...you would have to pay shipping across the pond, so...

 I have an old Danger Den CPX Pro but also have an extra XSPC combo pump/bay reservoir, extra being because somehow this one was machined slightly too wide to fit in a standard 5.25" bay (XSPC sent me another one, said to send this one back but didn't offer a shipping label and I kept putting it off and after awhile just kept it as never heard back). 

This rad is a Swiftech MCR-220 some beat up fins but still decent shape.


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## pantherx12 (Jul 3, 2012)

Wrigleyvillain said:


> Nah...you would have to pay shipping across the pond, so...
> 
> I have an old Danger Den CPX Pro but also have an extra XSPC combo pump/bay reservoir, extra being because somehow this one was machined slightly too wide to fit in a standard 5.25" bay (XSPC sent me another one, said to send this one back but didn't offer a shipping label and I kept putting it off and after awhile just kept it as never heard back).
> 
> This rad is a Swiftech MCR-220 some beat up fins but still decent shape.



Well I've got pennies at the moment so just let me know, thanks man


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## Sinzia (Jul 3, 2012)

if its just a single 120mm radiator, those are actually pretty good temps!


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## crazyeyesreaper (Jul 3, 2012)

TT pump.... I had one of those and with 2x 120mm rads and 4 enermax magma fans my 965 at 4ghz was hotter than it was with my Xigmatek Dark Knight, try Wrigleys pump see how it does. its worth a shot at least


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## Wrigleyvillain (Jul 3, 2012)

Sinzia said:


> if its just a single 120mm radiator, those are actually pretty good temps!



You mean for these CPUs?




pantherx12 said:


> Well I've got pennies at the moment



I know.


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## Steevo (Jul 3, 2012)

500 LPH is only 2.2GPM and in .375 tubing it only moves a little over an inch per second. 


More flow. 


http://www.1728.org/flowrate.htm


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## Wrigleyvillain (Jul 3, 2012)

Stand back! He's doing science!


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## Steevo (Jul 3, 2012)

Lets not be hasty.


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## crazyeyesreaper (Jul 3, 2012)

looks like 1.7 Gallons Per HOUR with his setup if i did it right.... thats really low lol


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## Steevo (Jul 3, 2012)

500 liters per hour from the pump = 528.344105 quarts = 132.086026 Gallons / 60 minutes = 2.20143377 Gallon Per minute


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## fullinfusion (Jul 3, 2012)

No offense Pantherx12, but that Thermaltake shit your running is just that shit!

Trust me I've played around enough with water cooling to know where most problems lay.

Your hose is fine, block too, but dump the pump and radiator... also for that cpu your using the temps are pretty close to being where they should be... that amd cpu is a heater to say the least.

If money is a factor in upgrading then move the radiator outside of the case, it will perform way better... 8-10c lower temps if I remember rite.

*edit* look at the output fitting coming from the pump... I betcha it's smaller inside then it looks like outside..
Mine was and I ended up drilling it out to match the OID... it helped but not that much.


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## pantherx12 (Jul 4, 2012)

Thanks everyone i'll take everything into consideration.

Looks like a new pump and radiator it is!



@fullinfusion the thing is, my TT Silver arrow actually performed better than this set up.

I ran another stress test earlier and stopped because it got to 63c after 5 iterations of intelburntest (out of 10 default testing) It works fine for awhile and can keep the cpu under 50 degrees then after 2 iterations things heat up very quickly.

I'm guessing this set up is getting heat soaked.


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## fullinfusion (Jul 4, 2012)

pantherx12 said:


> Thanks everyone i'll take everything into consideration.
> 
> Looks like a new pump and radiator it is!
> 
> ...


Yup it is and thats why I sugessted to move the rad outside of the case till you upgrade.

I run a 2x120 rad in my Corsair 650D case... The cases rear fan is reversed and pushing cool air into the case... the front case fan is also blowing cooler air in and both radaitor fans are sucking the case heat into the rad and out the top... This combo is keeping higher case pressure up and thus keeps dust down to a min aswell as temperature to a min


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## Steevo (Jul 4, 2012)

I have three 120's pulling air into my radiator and pressuring my case, as well blowing across all passively cooled components.


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## fullinfusion (Jul 4, 2012)

Here is my out side temps.... The 1st pic is the tempature of the cases vent blowing all day onto the temperature reader..







Inside the case under the exact same conditions.... here's the difference one hour later.... Point .3C higher 






that's with changing the fans orientation...


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## pantherx12 (Jul 4, 2012)

Right need to think of a way to mount everything outside the case now XD

Any suggestions for a Armor LCS? I've got a dremel so making it fit isn't a problem : ]


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## pantherx12 (Jul 6, 2012)

Bump , rather do this than create a new thread.

So I got one of these for super cheap http://www.overclockers.com/wp-cont...ries/articles/CoolingKing_Radiator/coolk4.jpg so hopefully it can do better than thermaltakes radiator.

I've also got a 150cfm delta fan with a 4 pin header to attach to the radiator.

Only problem it's WAY to loud, even with quiet cpu fan enabled in bios it still spins up way to fast way to early. ( 30 degrees, 70% fan speed) 

Is there any way of adjusting the fan profile some how?

Can't use fan controller, it doesn't have enough watts to power the fan properly


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## WhiteNoise (Jul 6, 2012)

What you need is a larger rad (3x 120mm), a better pump and Gentle Typhoon fans.


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## pantherx12 (Jul 6, 2012)

WhiteNoise said:


> What you need is a larger rad (3x 120mm), a better pump and Gentle Typhoon fans.



Cheers but a couple of things.

I can't afford a triple radiator  I can't even afford a dual radiator, I managed to get that 100mm thick copper 120 rad for it's scrap cost. 

I've got gentle typhoons, how ever I also have Deltas, Deltas make Gentle Typhoons seem like silly toys 

( When both at 50 cfm the Deltas are quieter push more air and have a lot more pressure)


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## MasterInvader (Jul 6, 2012)

You really need to get a proper rad if you want low temp´s with that OC 8150.
And I mean a proper one, minimum 240mmx50mm and of course a much better pump.






This kit form XSPC it´s very good: XSPC Rasa 750 RX240 WaterCooling Kit http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-Rasa-750-RX240-WaterCooling-Kit_25421.html - 170£


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## pantherx12 (Jul 6, 2012)

Does anyone have any idea how this will perform compared to 30x120x240mm aluminum rad?












It's 130mm x 115mm x 195mm and will have two 70cfm high pressure fans strapped to it, or one 150cfm high pressure fan.


Technically it has 3 times the surface area but how does that translate into performance D:


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## Wrigleyvillain (Jul 6, 2012)

I had one of those XSPC fat f*cks. Cooled well for a 120x2 but a lot harder to "work with".


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## fullinfusion (Jul 6, 2012)

Do a push pull and that sucker will cool like crazy


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## WhiteNoise (Jul 6, 2012)

pantherx12 said:


> Cheers but a couple of things.
> 
> I can't afford a triple radiator  I can't even afford a dual radiator, I managed to get that 100mm thick copper 120 rad for it's scrap cost.
> 
> ...



I wouldn't call the Gentle Typhoons 'toys' They are some of the very best sp fans on the market. I run the 1850's and they keep my rad nice and cool. of course I have money to buy proper kit though.  Not only do they work extremely well but they are silent or as close to silent as I've heard.

I've owned many Deltas over the years and 'quiet' is not usually a word used to describe them.


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## fullinfusion (Jul 6, 2012)

pantherx12 said:


> Does anyone have any idea how this will perform compared to 30x120x240mm aluminum rad?
> 
> 
> http://www.modthebox.com/reviews/wayvet/coolingking/coolking13.jpg
> ...


Shit if I had That rad It would be sitting in a camping cooler full of ice n water and my pond pump swirling the ice water around to cool the rad's water 

And 3 times the surface  = 3 times better heat transfer 

Also It having Copper coils are way better then Aluminum 

*edit* we changed our late model's aluminum triple core rad out for an all copper triple core and cooling down 700Hp was not an issue even when it was 100f outside...

Copper is a win win in any type of cooling


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## monohouse (Jul 7, 2012)

Gentle Typhoon is definitely the way to go when it comes to fans, my personal favorite is the 1850 RPM model
regardless of how many fans you have, more radiators/bigger radiators will always help
push/pull (fans on either side of the radiator) may not be very efficient or pretty, but it also helps

Thermaltake sucks, but not in the sense that you would expect, true it isn't the best when it comes to performance, but it's performance is not as bad as some people would have you believe, the problem in your case is the cooling capacity of the cooling system being insufficient, I personally have little to say bad about the performance of the Thermaltake cooling system, in my opinion it's flaws lie in the design, not in the performance (mixed metals (corrosion), acrylic blocks (cracks), high-resistance radiators killing flow (10-pass)), what's important, when it comes to dealing with Thermaltake water cooling systems, is to avoid mixing professional water cooling components with Thermaltake components so that you don't destroy your expensive water cooling components because of corrosion from other metals in the Thermaltake system.

+1 to the guy that said radiator place inside the case is not a good place, I placed my radiator on the window, where the air is fresh, it was magic for my temperatures (and for the noise levels)

and don't forget that water cooling is just a more efficient way to transfer heat, and as a result it makes the water cooling system hotter. there is always a limit to what water can do, it's possible that in some cases it can be insufficient to handle the amount of heat that you are putting on it

one more thing: tubing size is completely out of the equation (it has no effect on cooling performance at all)


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## fullinfusion (Jul 7, 2012)

monohouse said:


> Gentle Typhoon is definitely the way to go when it comes to fans, my personal favorite is the 1850 RPM model
> regardless of how many fans you have, more radiators/bigger radiators will always help
> push/pull (fans on either side of the radiator) may not be very efficient or pretty, but it also helps
> 
> ...



1850Rpm radiator cooling fan? Dam that must be loud...

Id Highly recommend a pair of Noctua NF-F12's


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## pantherx12 (Jul 7, 2012)

WhiteNoise said:


> I wouldn't call the Gentle Typhoons 'toys' They are some of the very best sp fans on the market. I run the 1850's and they keep my rad nice and cool. of course I have money to buy proper kit though.  Not only do they work extremely well but they are silent or as close to silent as I've heard.
> 
> I've owned many Deltas over the years and 'quiet' is not usually a word used to describe them.



In the same RPM range I find the Deltas I have to be of around the same volume as GT, although the gts have a fan pitch that my ears pick up on more.

@ 1000 rpm all these deltas are dead silent ( well cept the bad boy 3900rpm one, that one clicks at rpms less than 1700rpm)


I'm really looking forward to getting this fitted, even if it doesn't improve temperatures of the CPU my case temperatures will be far better so I can have my gpu @ 1250mhz and ram @ 1800 again : ]


Thanks to everyone being so helpful, I'll keep the thread open as I'll likely need more help!

Like I really need to find a away to get better control out of my motherboard 4pin header, it's the only thing I have with enough wattage to power the 3900rpm fan.


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## fullinfusion (Jul 7, 2012)

Just keep us posted Panther! It's going to be interesting on what you find for sure!!!


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## Wrigleyvillain (Jul 7, 2012)

Yeah and let me know if you still need any old gear.


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## Steevo (Jul 7, 2012)

Wire them directly to 5+ and 12+ for the same as 7+v.

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article6-page1.html


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## CaptainFailcon (Jul 7, 2012)

Steevo said:


> Wire them directly to 5+ and 12+ for the same as 7+v.
> 
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/article6-page1.html



beware of cross load on Mulirail Psus


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## pantherx12 (Jul 7, 2012)

Right got it all installed ( looks pretty cool by the way!) had to install pump and reservoir outside of the case due to not having enough tubing XD

Now the important bit, performance has not improved at all ( or got worse for that matter) ( radiator is cool to touch as well so it's not having a problem dissipating the heat)

As I was filling the loop I noticed that the water was barely moving when it was heading to the cpu block, once it got to the cpu block it stopped for about 5 minutes before working its way through then it took 5 minutes to fill the pipe from the block to the rad!


It has to be the pump then, I didn't imagine a piece of kit could be this under powered!


Also I really need to find a way to adjust PWM fan curve because at the moment it ramps in a linear fashion so you can hear it constantly adjusting also it goes way to fast at low temperatures.


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## INSTG8R (Jul 7, 2012)

I am running the same gear(Kandalf L.C.S.) only difference is it has a 3x120 rad. I too have changed out the block for an AC Kryos. My idle is 30C and under extreme load 65C.


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## pantherx12 (Jul 20, 2012)

Right new pump is up and running unfortunately it didn't improve temperatures quite as much as I had of liked. Never go over 60c now though.

The difference in flow speed is night and day though, this pump instantly emptied the reservoir when I first switched it on ( hell all the pipes judder when I switch my pc on it's so powerful) 

Only problem now is it makes a loud grinding noise which I suspect is air trapped in the pump.

Any pro tips for getting rid of it?


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## INSTG8R (Jul 21, 2012)

pantherx12 said:


> Right new pump is up and running unfortunately it didn't improve temperatures quite as much as I had of liked. Never go over 60c now though.
> 
> The difference in flow speed is night and day though, this pump instantly emptied the reservoir when I first switched it on ( hell all the pipes judder when I switch my pc on it's so powerful)
> 
> ...



Try giving it couple of good taps with the handle of a screwdriver for example.


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## OneMoar (Jul 21, 2012)

pantherx12 said:


> Right new pump is up and running unfortunately it didn't improve temperatures quite as much as I had of liked. Never go over 60c now though.
> 
> The difference in flow speed is night and day though, this pump instantly emptied the reservoir when I first switched it on ( hell all the pipes judder when I switch my pc on it's so powerful)
> 
> ...



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S7k_rbibxHA


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## pantherx12 (Jul 21, 2012)

INSTG8R said:


> Try giving it couple of good taps with the handle of a screwdriver for example.





OneMoar said:


> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S7k_rbibxHA



Thanks but this does not work.

My rig is like this at the moment by the by


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## INSTG8R (Jul 21, 2012)

Well while it's hard to tell, it looks like you have the pump/res just out loose. Try just tilting it around a bit .

Edit: speaking of your pump/res. What pump are you using? I see your still using the TT Res and wondered how easy was it to use them together? Pics?
Just thinking if it's not a crazy hassle I might replace my pump too


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## pantherx12 (Jul 21, 2012)

INSTG8R said:


> Well while it's hard to tell, it looks like you have the pump/res just out loose. Try just tilting it around a bit .
> 
> Edit: speaking of your pump/res. What pump are you using? I see your still using the TT Res and wondered how easy was it to use them together? Pics?
> Just thinking if it's not a crazy hassle I might replace my pump too



I've tried twisting it about and such nothing seems to work : [ Although I've successfully trapped air in the block now whilst trying to fix the pump  ( it came from the res it's self not from the pump : [) 

Installation is real easy, the inlet on the EK DCP 4.0 pretty much lines up perfectly ( when the pad is on the bottom the pump) a folded piece of card made it perfect  

Just install the push fitting onto your pump of choice : ]

As for pictures my rom ATM is kinda buggy so camera quality is awful.

I'm going to do a little video though so you can see and everyone can hear what I'm hearing ( maybe it's normal and I'm just fussy)



*edit* Rom doesn't like my camera at all sorry! no video XD

Here's a straight up sound recording though https://www.yousendit.com/download/QlVnYUorUzdTRTVjR05Vag I held the mic against the pump it's self as I wasn't sure how sensitive my mic is ( apparently it's pretty sensitive though lol) so bare that in mind when listening.


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## fullinfusion (Jul 21, 2012)

Try squeezing and releasing the output hose and see if that helps.

When air is a bugger to get outa the pump I unplug the cpu's power and turn the system on and switch the psu's switch on and off so the system just stops for a few seconds then powers back up...do that a number of times and the air will dissapate also your going to need to squeeze the line to slow the flow so the sir rises befor re-entering the pump.

Good luck


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## pantherx12 (Jul 21, 2012)

fullinfusion said:


> Try squeezing and releasing the output hose and see if that helps.
> 
> When air is a bugger to get outa the pump I unplug the cpu's power and turn the system on and switch the psu's switch on and off so the system just stops for a few seconds then powers back up...do that a number of times and the air will dissapate also your going to need to squeeze the line to slow the flow so the sir rises befor re-entering the pump.
> 
> Good luck



I tried this and doesn't seem to work.

Did anyone listen to my recording to see if what I'm hearing is just normal pump noise and I'm just going coo coo bananas?


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## OneMoar (Jul 21, 2012)

so here is  what you do drain everything
manually fill the rad and the res separately
then carfully prime the block with coolent and re-install the tubes then fill the tubes will coolent
then prime the pump/rad the same way
then with everything off/disconnected hot-wire the pump and cycle on and off for 30/60 while titling the rad/block untill the air works its way back into the res


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## pantherx12 (Jul 21, 2012)

OneMoar said:


> so here is  what you do drain everything
> manually fill the rad and the res separately
> then carfully prime the block with coolent and re-install the tubes then fill the tubes will coolent
> then prime the pump/rad the same way
> then with everything off/disconnected hot-wire the pump and cycle on and off for 30/60 while titling the rad/block untill the air works its way back into the res





I think I'll just give up 

I've been having to much trouble with my rig recently and I'm out of money so I think I'll just sell it all.... 

Start again fresh when I have another job. Go intel or something : ]

( going to keep the new case I've got coming though as that should last me every rig I ever do from now on) 

Thank you so much to everyone who posted in the thread


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## INSTG8R (Jul 21, 2012)

pantherx12 said:


> I tried this and doesn't seem to work.
> 
> Did anyone listen to my recording to see if what I'm hearing is just normal pump noise and I'm just going coo coo bananas?



Yeah that sounds like aiir cavitating in there.


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## OneMoar (Jul 21, 2012)

pantherx12 said:


> I think I'll just give up
> 
> I've been having to much trouble with my rig recently and I'm out of money so I think I'll just sell it all....
> 
> ...



just run it the air will work its self out after a few coldstarts anyway
if you are paranoid-ed set the bios's overheat protection to 75c and call it a day


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## pantherx12 (Jul 21, 2012)

INSTG8R said:


> Yeah that sounds like aiir cavitating in there.



So irritating that I can't get it out 

At the very least I'm still keeping this rig til the end of September I don't think I can deal with the noise that long ( gives me a head ache) 

But I don't want to manually fill all the components just to get rid of some air .... ( also I'm bound to spill something and ruin something)


@Onemoar it's been installed for 24 hours now and been switched on and off about 30 times... ( I'm not worried about it breaking, I hate the noise! all the fans I have make so little noise that I can't hear them from 3 feet away, the pump I can hear on the other side of my room 14 foot away : [)


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## OneMoar (Jul 21, 2012)

whats the pump feel like if you pick it up while its on 
excessive vibration would indicate  impending-impeller-implosion
I say fk it and run it if the pump quits the pump quits thats what bios overheat protection is for
bad impellers make a very loud and very crunchy(broken plastic sound) when they are bad 
sounds like air/pump resonating with the case metal to me


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## pantherx12 (Jul 21, 2012)

OneMoar said:


> whats the pump feel like if you pick it up while its on
> excessive vibration would indicate  impending-impeller-implosion
> I say fk it and run it if the pump quits the pump quits thats what bios overheat protection is for
> bad impellers make a very loud and very crunchy(broken plastic sound) when they are bad
> sounds like air/pump resonating with the case metal to me



There is no case, and the pump is on foam ontop of a wooden desk. 

Erm.. regarding noise it's vibrates a fair bit but I've no idea if it's excessive or not


Also I'd rather not run it if there's a chance it could break, like I said I'm out of money so the £25 I could get from selling the pump would be super handy : ]


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## INSTG8R (Jul 21, 2012)

I still say give it a couple of taps. The air "should" works it's way out eventually(If you can put up with it that long) I wouldn't worry about there being something wrong with it.


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## pantherx12 (Jul 21, 2012)

INSTG8R said:


> I still say give it a couple of taps. The air "should" works it's way out eventually(If you can put up with it that long) I wouldn't worry about there being something wrong with it.



I'll tap it every day 

I've also been shaking it and shouting at it in an attempt to get it to clear 

I might open up the pump and check if there is any debris in there just incase.


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## OneMoar (Jul 21, 2012)

also the res should always be higher then the rad/pump YES this matters

derp


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## INSTG8R (Jul 21, 2012)

pantherx12 said:


> I'll tap it every day
> 
> I've also been shaking it and shouting at it in an attempt to get it to clear
> 
> I might open up the pump and check if there is any debris in there just incase.





I don't know about taking it apart tho. Will put you back to square one and your back to bleeding the loop again. It looks a sealed unit to me from the pics I found.

But your not alone I found THIS so you see it's not just you.


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## pantherx12 (Jul 21, 2012)

OneMoar said:


> also the res should always be higher then the rad/pump YES this matters
> 
> [RES]         <
> <;{RAD};              ^
> ...




I've got a different res actually  XSPC single drive bay type, how ever not sure if you can tell from the picture but the fitting on the TT res is epoxied on ( the thread had been worn inside and I didn't want it falling off) 

If the noise doesn't stop by it's self I'll take my dremel to the epoxy and try and free up the fitting so I can use it on the other res.


Just took sound level measurements of my own pump, it's the same volume as that video XD


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## OneMoar (Jul 21, 2012)

crude but you get the idea
this setup better flow and slightly more  pressure and therfor better cooling it also helps keep bubbles from sitting in the cpu block
never run a water cooling loop with everything at the same elevation


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## pantherx12 (Jul 21, 2012)

OneMoar said:


> http://f.cl.ly/items/2B3j0n1l3Z3K0x0T3p31/WC.png
> 
> crude but you get the idea
> this setup better flow and slightly more  pressure and therfor better cooling it also helps keep bubbles from sitting in the cpu block
> never run a water cooling loop with everything at the same elevation



Cheers for that.

Normally I wouldn't but you know, every things on the desk so it's hard to raise or lower things  


I finish paying for this on Monday http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168937 so should have a lot more options soon : ]


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## OneMoar (Jul 21, 2012)

if your pump is uber you can also put the rad at the top and the res at the bottom but you lose the "head" effect of the res sitting above the pump/block heat rises but that depends heavily on the setup of the case


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## pantherx12 (Jul 21, 2012)

OneMoar said:


> if your pump is uber you can also put the rad at the top and the res at the bottom but you lose the "head" effect of the res sitting above the pump/block heat rises but that depends heavily on the setup of the case



It's rated for 4 meters so it falls between the highest end Liang DDC and the D5 vario.


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## OneMoar (Jul 21, 2012)

pantherx12 said:


> It's rated for 4 meters so it falls between the highest end Liang DDC and the D5 vario.



the less the pump has to lift/push the better the flow will be


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## OneMoar (Jul 21, 2012)

this is a rough gusss
say the res is 1quart
and its  8 incs blah to late for that kind of math
read this 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_head


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## Sinzia (Jul 21, 2012)

Doesnt sound out of spec or the like, I've ran T-lines before, which are a bitch to bleed.... best thing is to keep it running, the air will naturally work out.


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## pantherx12 (Jul 21, 2012)

Sinzia said:


> Doesnt sound out of spec or the like, I've ran T-lines before, which are a bitch to bleed.... best thing is to keep it running, the air will naturally work out.



Res cap on or off?


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## Sinzia (Jul 21, 2012)

pantherx12 said:


> Res cap on or off?



off, the air has to go somewhere!


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## pantherx12 (Jul 21, 2012)

Sinzia said:


> off, the air has to go somewhere!



Right done! Thanks.

I'll just leave that running then, hopefully I don't knock it or something stupid 


( Seems I've ran out of thanks so everyone will get more tomorrow : ])


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## Sinzia (Jul 21, 2012)

keep me posted on everything, water cooling can be such fun with the challenges it gives.


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## pantherx12 (Jul 21, 2012)

Sinzia said:


> keep me posted on everything, water cooling can be such fun with the challenges it gives.


Thanks man!
It was a lot easier last loop I had I tell you that 

Had a 
Magicool UV 360
Liang DDC1 with XSPC res top
and a D-tek Fuzion v2 all with 1/2 ID tubing.

All that went together no problem and kept what ever I was using at the time under 40 degrees c at all times. ( I think it was a xeon 3220 but it was ages ago)



Whilst I reckon I'm still going to sell my rig( I've had quite enough of this shitty motherboard  it's buggered up this FX chip as well so it no longer does 4.4 @ 1.31v), I'm thinking of keeping the water cooling parts for next time around.

Cept the block, damn thing leaks unless the fittings are tightened to an obscene degree.

That and I still think it may be a bottle neck to performance with this radiator, none of the pipes on the rad ever get warm. ( but touching the block it's noticeably above room temperature, not hot though)


By the by the fin array of the radiator is 85mm not what ever I said it was before, that's total thickness including the shroud.


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## pantherx12 (Jul 24, 2012)

BUMP!/Update

Okay after how ever many days of the air not clearing I decided "FUCK THIS NOISE!" ( see what I did there ) 

And fitted the Stock AMD heatsink so I could take apart the pump to have a look at it.

There was a washer that was out of place  I refitted that and set up a simple Res/pump loop with the res sat higher than the pump ( using my xspc res instead of the thermaltake one) and well, it works!

Pump is whisper quiet 
When I first opened up the pump the blades were touching the casing pretty much, after putting the washer back it left a 1mm gap between the blades and casing.

I'm guessing the ticking type noise was the blades stopping and starting or some such.


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## Nordic (Jul 24, 2012)

Glad to hear its working nicely now


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## OneMoar (Jul 24, 2012)

I would have RMA'd the pump I still would ifthe build quality is that shotty


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## pantherx12 (Jul 24, 2012)

OneMoar said:


> I would have RMA'd the pump I still would ifthe build quality is that shotty




Second hand, I suspect the previous owner used to reservoir that attaches directly to the pump and put the thing together wrong when reassembling. ( and obviously it would of worked fine before hand hence them suggesting it was air) 

All good though, I should of taken it apart as soon as I get it like I usually do 


Just one more thing if you will guys I have this reservoir http://www.xs-pc.com/products/reservoirs/uv-blue-single-5-25-bay-reservoir/ ( going to use it instead of the TT one) what should side should be the inlet?


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## Sinzia (Jul 25, 2012)

Id go with the one on the side, rather than the one in the middle... its smoother for the air to work its way out of suspension in the water.


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