# Desktop Keeps Rebooting During Gaming



## MatrimC7 (Apr 18, 2020)

Hello everyone. I just built a PC, specs are:

MSI B450 Tomahawk Max, AMD Ryzen 5 3600X, ASUS RTX 2070 Super, geiL 16GB(2x8), Corsair CX750M.

My PC reboots during certain games, at certain points. Specifically:
Modern Warfare Multiplayer Gunpoint Mode reboots right after starting loading the level.
PES 2020 reboots various situations. Sometimes at the beginning of a match, sometimes when I take a freekick. Sometimes doesn't reboot and run smoothly.
Outer Worlds, when I try to use the workbench.
CS GO used to reboot, it ran smoothly last couple of tries. I didn't try it recently though.

I ran every benchmark, stress test(Heaven, furmark, kombustor, OCCT, Aida64), ran MemTest86, no issues whatsoever. I constantly check temp when trying to play the games that causes reboot, always around 60-65 at the point of reboot.

I installed all the latest drivers and I updated my BIOS. I haven't OC'd anything. I tried undervolting and underclocking my GPU. I tried enabling and disabling XMP. Nothing worked. Still get rebooted during PES 2020.

I can run other games perfectly. GTA V, Doom, TESO, Battlefield V, FIFA 20, Apex Legends, Divinity Original Sin 2, The Witcher 3 Wild Hunt, Dota, Stellaris. All running pefectly in highest settings, for hours.

I have no idea what is causing this and I am about to lose my mind.


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## basco (Apr 18, 2020)

did ya look at temps during stress?
could ya borrow some hardware from a friend?


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## Regeneration (Apr 18, 2020)

Reboots or BSODs? Check the event log (Control Panel -> Administrative Tools -> Event Viewer -> Check both critical and error).

If its BSODs, upload the DUMP files: C:\Windows\Minidump or C:\Windows\Memory.dmp.

Did you run stresst test for both GPU and CPU?

Check if the PSU is overheating by running FurMark and CPU stress test in the same time.


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## MatrimC7 (Apr 18, 2020)

basco said:


> did ya look at temps during stress?
> could ya borrow some hardware from a friend?



Yes, temps are all normal during stress. During benchmarks and stress tests, GPU and CPU generally around 65-70. CPU sometimes go as much as 75 but never above.

Also I monitored temps during said games causing reboot, both temps never passed 70.

Unfortunately I don't have any friends that I can borrow hardware and try each part.



Regeneration said:


> Reboots or BSODs? Check the event log (Control Panel -> Administrative Tools -> Event Viewer -> Check both critical and error).
> 
> If its BSODs, upload the DUMP files: C:\Windows\Minidump or C:\Windows\Memory.dmp.
> 
> ...



Completely reboots. System shuts down and restarts. 

Each time after restart, I see kernel power error on event log with 0x8000400000000002 or 0x8000000000000000

No dump files generated after any of the reboots. And never seen any other indication on the eventviewer.

I actually ran Furmark and CPU stress test at the same time, CPU temps were around 70 maximum.  Also ran OCCT PSU stress test for an hour, no faults. I have a screenshot of the result here:


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## basco (Apr 18, 2020)

if ya tell us where ya from then maybe you will find a friend in techpowerup forums.
i am from austria and i would help ya if a ya not too far
but from your name i would go to matrimonio and think you are some spanish south american guy or girl- could be all wrong


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## MatrimC7 (Apr 18, 2020)

basco said:


> if ya tell us where ya from then maybe you will find a friend in techpowerup forums.
> i am from austria and i would help ya if a ya not too far
> but from your name i would go to matrimonio and think you are some spanish south american guy or girl- could be all wrong



Thank you but I'm affraid we are a little far away from each other . I'm from Turkey/Istanbul. And "Matrim" is from a character from The Wheel of Time series( Matrim Cauthon)


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## FreedomEclipse (Apr 18, 2020)

The curse of the CX line of Corsair power supplies - Ive replaced a lot of them that would crash and bootloop machines till they were replaced. Ive even replaced a faulty CX with another factory sealed new CX that developed the same problem a few months later. Problem went away when i replaced them with an EVGA GQ.

The higher end corsair units tend to be pretty good though but i would avoid the CX line and anything below that range. Stick with the HX, TX range if you can.

The same company that builds a lot of high end corsair PSUs builds these CX PSUs. So you'd expect them to be good but they are not.

I think the problem we have here is the workmanship and build quality is 10/10 but the components inside are probably more like a 4/10 or 6/10 because they cheaped out on it.

::EDIT::

However if youre building a super cheap low-end machine that doesnt pull a lot of power then it doesnt matter if you run with the cheapest corsair money can buy so long as you meet the wattage requirements.


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## Regeneration (Apr 18, 2020)

If you want a proper CPU stress test, try Linpack Xtreme.

Sounds like your PSU is overheating or failing. Touch it with your hand while gaming.

As @FreedomEclipse  mentioned, the Corsair CX series aren't that great.


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## MatrimC7 (Apr 18, 2020)

Couple of other forums suggested it could be from PSU, I have one with a gray logo(I saw some posts about green ones being worse before.) I do hear some strange noises time to time(I am %99 sure it's coming from PSU), but I thought it's normal under stress.

I have one more question that just came to my mind. I used 1 PCIe cable to connect my RTX 2070 to PSU, like this:


Should I try to use 2 different cable sets?


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## Bill_Bright (Apr 18, 2020)

> I just built a PC


I would try another PSU. As FreedomEclipse notes, the CX series does not have the best reputation. But even the best brands can have a problem unit occasionally. So beg or borrow another from somewhere and try another PSU. 

I don't see this being a stress issue since sometimes it works fine. 

If not the PSU, I would pull the motherboard and check for extra standoffs or another foreign object under the board. Note that cases are designed to support 1000s of different motherboards. So, it is common for cases to have more motherboard mounting points than boards have mounting holes. A common mistake by the less experienced and distracted pros alike is to insert one or more extra standoff in the case under the motherboard. Any extra standoff creates the potential for an electrical “short” in one or more circuits. The result ranges from "nothing" happening (everything works perfectly) to "intermittent” problems to "nothing" (as in nothing works at all ). So, you might want to verify you only inserted a standoff where there is a corresponding motherboard mounting hole.

While software based memory tester are good at telling us if RAM is bad, they are not conclusive when it comes to telling us the RAM is good. That is, they can report no problems and the RAM still fails when in use. So try running with one stick of RAM at a time.


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## basco (Apr 18, 2020)

there is a thread with these probs (0x8000400000000002 ) and it was the power supply \\ its post 85 in this thread








						PC restarts when playing GTA 5 and DotA 2 after Windows 10 Anniversary Update
					

Lol u play Dota too  Yeah. Add me up. Same as my user name here :)




					www.techpowerup.com


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## Regeneration (Apr 18, 2020)

MatrimC7 said:


> Couple of other forums suggested it could be from PSU, I have one with a gray logo(I saw some posts about green ones being worse before.) I do hear some strange noises time to time(I am %99 sure it's coming from PSU), but I thought it's normal under stress.
> 
> I have one more question that just came to my mind. I used 1 PCIe cable to connect my RTX 2070 to PSU, like this:
> View attachment 151980
> ...



Yes!! split the load between 2 cables.

When you say 'strange noises', you mean buzzing right?


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## MatrimC7 (Apr 18, 2020)

Yes buzzing. Exactly like this: 








I will try splitting 2 PCIe cables and see if that will help.

BTW, completely unrelated but, is there anyway turning off all the RGB? I have no idea why I bought rams with RGB to be honest.


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## Caring1 (Apr 18, 2020)

Looking at the OCCT graphs above, I would say thermal throttling of the GPU, the power remains consistent during the GPU drop outs and temperature drops.


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## Fry178 (Apr 18, 2020)

@Bill_Bright   FreedomEclipse

its usually the M series that's bad, not the non modular ones.
but  even if, i've never seen a unit that does everything fine, except for one game.


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## Regeneration (Apr 18, 2020)

Fry178 said:


> @Bill_Bright   FreedomEclipse
> 
> its usually the M series that's bad, not the non modular ones.
> but  even if, i've never seen a unit that does everything fine, except for one game.



VS series are bad too. Overheating and failing out of the box.


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## Bill_Bright (Apr 18, 2020)

Fry178 said:


> its usually the M series that's bad, not the non modular ones.


Note sure I agree - but I will say all wired (not just Corsairs) PSUs have fewer parts. So, as a general statement, fewer problems with wired PSUs would make sense. 

I do agree with Regeneration about VS series too - though "bad" may be a bit harsh. Not sure any are "bad". The problem is, it used to be if the PSU had the Corsair brand on it, you knew it was a quality PSU. Then they changed OEMs for their entry series supplies and failure rates went up. That tarnished their reputation, upsetting many users. 

The facts are, there are many CS and VS series Corsair PSUs out there that are servicing their user's needs just fine. Perhaps saying the CS and VS series are "not as good" as top tier Corsair models would be more appropriate? 

Even if the OP had a top tier EVGA or Seasonic PSU in there, until Man can create perfection 100% of the time, there will always be a unit that fails to meet specs. So swapping in another, known good PSU would still be an appropriate first troubleshooting step, regardless the PSU in there.


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## MatrimC7 (Apr 18, 2020)

Well, I completely assembled  everything except CPU. I noticed I missed 1 standoff screw and screwed that one properly this time. I used 2 different PCIe cables to connect GPU to PSU. PES 2020 caused reboot again. This time when I try to reboot my PC, the VGA LED on MOBO didn't go off and after another restart it booted up. Now I'm doing a fresh OS install to see if it would help or not.


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## SomeOne99h (Apr 18, 2020)

MatrimC7 said:


> Well, I completely assembled  everything except CPU. I noticed I missed 1 standoff screw and screwed that one properly this time. I used 2 different PCIe cables to connect GPU to PSU. PES 2020 caused reboot again. This time when I try to reboot my PC, the VGA LED on MOBO didn't go off and after another restart it booted up. Now I'm doing a fresh OS install to see if it would help or not.


Guys correct me if that is wrong, prolong use of a faulty power supply can damage the computer's components?


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## MatrimC7 (Apr 18, 2020)

Nope.

After clean OS install and drivers, still reboots during Modern Warfare multiplayer. 

I have no idea what is the problem and at this point, I am just feeling so broken.


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## FreedomEclipse (Apr 18, 2020)

SomeOne99h said:


> Guys correct me if that is wrong, prolong use of a faulty power supply can damage the computer's components?



If a powersupply cant keep voltages regulated - Things would start smoking up or catching fire.

Damage tends to be instant. A faulty power supply can fry everything hooked up to it and even if your parts survive, there is no telling what sort of damage that has been done to them. Even replacing the faulty powersupply would not guarantee continued functionality  of parts that have been fried by a bad power supply.


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## MatrimC7 (Apr 18, 2020)

FreedomEclipse said:


> If a powersupply cant keep voltages regulated - Things would start smoking up or catching fire.
> 
> Damage tends to be instant. A faulty power supply can fry everything hooked up to it and even if your parts survive, there is no telling what sort of damage that has been done to them. Even replacing the faulty powersupply would not guarantee continued functionality  of parts that have been fried by a bad power supply.



Is there anyway to tell that it is certainly PSU's fault though?

Edit: I was running linpack Xtreme to stress test and realized that there is a strange clicking sound coming from the case in every 10 seconds or so. I am not sure but it sounds like coming from the CPU area.

It's coming from the HDD.


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## Bill_Bright (Apr 18, 2020)

SomeOne99h said:


> Guys correct me if that is wrong, prolong use of a faulty power supply can damage the computer's components?


Depends on what the fault is - but yes prolonged (or even short term) exposure to incorrect voltages can, in some cases, result in premature failure of connected components. 


MatrimC7 said:


> I noticed I missed 1 standoff screw and screwed that one properly this time.


A missing standoff is not really a problem - other than, depending on its location, it might allow the motherboard to flex too much when inserting RAM or a card, or the heatsink fan assembly. It is extra standoffs that might short voltages together or to ground that can result in intermittent disruptions or even permanent damage. 


MatrimC7 said:


> Is there anyway to tell that it is certainly PSU's fault though?


Yes - as mentioned above by swapping in another known good PSU. Beyond that, there is no way normal users can conclusively test a PSU as (1) that must be done under a variety of realistic loads and (2) PSUs need to be tested for proper regulation and ripple suppression too - not just that voltages are present and within the allowed ±5% tolerances. In other words, to properly and conclusively test a PSU, it must be done by a qualified person under a variety of loads using an oscilloscope or dedicated power supply analyzer. Since most users don't have that sort of test equipment, the know-how to use it or training to interpret the findings, swapping in a known good PSU to see if the problem goes away is really the only way to do it.


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## MatrimC7 (Apr 18, 2020)

So, then I have 2 options. 1. Contacting the retailer to change my unit. 2. Buying a new PSU.

I already contacted with Corsair, they replied that I should contact with the retailer since it is recently purchased unit. I contacted with retailer I bough the parts from, they replied after 2 days by saying just "send the unit to us via cargo, we will check" in Friday afternoon. With the weekend curfew going on here in Turkey, it basically means that my package will wait in shipment company for another 5 days. Geez. And beyond that, I'm pretty sure they will just say "ah, your unit is fine, no problem whatsoever" after 2 weeks at best. The customer service and customer rights are not really great over here.

If I am to buy a new PSU, would you guys have any suggestions?

Addition: I just ran Linpack Xtreme and furmark at the same time for 20 minutes or so. No crash, no reboot. Temps are all around 65 maximum.

Ah, also, when I install the motherboard again, I realized there is 1 strange standoff in the case(corsair 270R). It is sort of reversed standoff that a small screw just stay inside of motherboard. And it seems like there is no way to unscrew it, I tried.


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## Bill_Bright (Apr 18, 2020)

You don't have any trusted friends or relatives with a computer you can temporarily swap PSUs with?

Since that PSU is under warranty, I would send it back. If you can get your money back, I would go for an EVGA SuperNova or Seasonic, if available in your area. If not, then an upper tier Corsair.


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## MatrimC7 (Apr 18, 2020)

Unfortunately no.

BTW, I just want to be sure, I have 3 question marks on my mind about the initial build. (possible screw-ups)

1. During installing CPU cooler(Cooler Master HD 212 black), due to inexperience it wasn't really a smooth installation. I think at one point, I applied a little bit pressure while screwing the cooler, directly to CPU from above with the cooler. Also, I think I couldn't screw the upper left corner screw very tightly.
2. While trying to fit the CPU cable from PSU to Motherboard, I applied some pressure to 1 of the RAM. Not that much but let's say it's like pushing it from the side softly.
3. While trying to screw the GPU to the case, I drop a small screw inside of the unit. But in around 1 second it fell off itself.

I think if I ever did anything wrong, it must be one of the above. I don't think hardware nowadays are that fragile but still those 3 instances haunts me.

Or, I have a faulty PSU. And only way to determine if it's PSU or not, is to either wait weeks to be replaced by the retailer(if they ever do it), or buying a new one.

So, what do you think about this unit:  https://www.teknobiyotik.com/seasonic-focus-plus-750w-80-gold-tam-moduler-guc-kaynagi-ssr-750fx.html
I am currently making some research about good reliable PSU's but most of the suggestions are not available here in Turkey.


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## Bill_Bright (Apr 18, 2020)

I cannot speak to your uneven pressure during installation - especially if the standoff under one of those pressure points was the missing standoff. But in the end, there needs to be an even amount of pressure on all 4 corners of the CPU. 

I will note, however, you stated the computer will run for hours at the highest settings with some games. That suggests your final mounting results are fine. 

As for the screw falling in to "the unit" (not sure what you mean by "the unit") that would not matter if the computer was unplugged from the wall. And I would hope since you were trying to screw the GPU to the case, the computer would be unplugged from the wall. I am also assuming you removed that dropped screw before applying power.


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## MatrimC7 (Apr 18, 2020)

Bill_Bright said:


> I cannot speak to your uneven pressure during installation - especially if the standoff under one of those pressure points was the missing standoff. But in the end, there needs to be an even amount of pressure on all 4 corners of the CPU.
> 
> I will note, however, you stated the computer will run for hours at the highest settings with some games. That suggests your final mounting results are fine.
> 
> As for the screw falling in to "the unit" (not sure what you mean by "the unit") that would not matter if the computer was unplugged from the wall. And I would hope since you were trying to screw the GPU to the case, the computer would be unplugged from the wall. I am also assuming you removed that dropped screw before applying power.


Huh, sorry for being unclear. I mean, a small screw fell actually inside of the GPU from the side. It stayed inside maybe for 1 second and after that it fell off. And yes, the system was unplugged. It was during my initial build.

To be more precise, it went inside from the circle and then fell of after 1 second(well not exactly from the same area, but I couldn't find any pictures from the other angle. :



And also, I installed the cooler before mounting the Motherboard to the case. I actually mean that I pushed the cooler to the CPU a little too much while trying to screw the cooler.

I think after spending that much money on the system and to be honest, dreaming about a good gaming setup for years, I don't mind spending another 150$ or so for a new PSU. I am considering to buy this one in the meantime: https://www.teknobiyotik.com/seasonic-focus-plus-750w-80-gold-tam-moduler-guc-kaynagi-ssr-750fx.html

I am not sure if it is any good or not. Newegg and pcpartpicker scores seems decent.

I really hope that the problem is the PSU. If it is another unit, I don't know what to do.

Wow. Football Manager 2020 just rebooted the system. Precisely when I turned on "reload skin when" option. Correct me if I'm wrong but, FM is one of the least graphically demanding games out there.

This whole situation just doesn't make any kind of sense. I mean how can I run Battlefiedl V or GTA V with absolute maxed settings, but not FM 2020? Could there be any kind of logical explanation to that?


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## Regeneration (Apr 18, 2020)

MatrimC7 said:


> So, then I have 2 options. 1. Contacting the retailer to change my unit. 2. Buying a new PSU.
> 
> I already contacted with Corsair, they replied that I should contact with the retailer since it is recently purchased unit. I contacted with retailer I bough the parts from, they replied after 2 days by saying just "send the unit to us via cargo, we will check" in Friday afternoon. With the weekend curfew going on here in Turkey, it basically means that my package will wait in shipment company for another 5 days. Geez. And beyond that, I'm pretty sure they will just say "ah, your unit is fine, no problem whatsoever" after 2 weeks at best. The customer service and customer rights are not really great over here.
> 
> ...



The standoff is a standard Corsair thing, to prevent the motherboard from moving during installation. It is removeable, but you should just ignore it.

Contact the retailer, ask for a PSU replacement, hope you kept the box. I suggest SeaSonic PSUs.


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## Caring1 (Apr 19, 2020)

MatrimC7 said:


> I ran every benchmark, stress test(Heaven, furmark, kombustor, OCCT, Aida64), ran MemTest86, no issues whatsoever. I constantly check temp when trying to play the games that causes reboot, always around 60-65 at the point of reboot.
> 
> I installed all the latest drivers and I updated my BIOS. I haven't OC'd anything. I tried undervolting and underclocking my GPU. I tried enabling and disabling XMP. Nothing worked. Still get rebooted during PES 2020.
> 
> I can run other games perfectly. GTA V, Doom, TESO, Battlefield V, FIFA 20, Apex Legends, Divinity Original Sin 2, The Witcher 3 Wild Hunt, Dota, Stellaris. All running pefectly in highest settings, for hours.


I wouldn't waste money on a new PSU if it only happens during certain games.
That sounds more like a driver issue specific to those games.


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## MatrimC7 (Apr 19, 2020)

Caring1 said:


> I wouldn't waste money on a new PSU if it only happens during certain games.
> That sounds more like a driver issue specific to those games.


Well, I already ordered the new Seasonic Focus Plus 750W 80+ Gold 20 minutes ago. I mean rebooting on Football Manager was my boiling point I guess.

At this point I really hope this is all because of the PSU.


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## Caring1 (Apr 19, 2020)

I hope that solves it for you, and if it doesn't then at least the PSU can be ruled out.


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## Regeneration (Apr 19, 2020)

MatrimC7 said:


> Well, I already ordered the new Seasonic Focus Plus 750W 80+ Gold 20 minutes ago. I mean rebooting on Football Manager was my boiling point I guess.
> 
> At this point I really hope this is all because of the PSU.



Did you run MemTest64?


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## MatrimC7 (Apr 19, 2020)

Regeneration said:


> Did you run MemTest64?


Yep. 2 times, with XMP enabled and disabled. No errors. I also tried using only 1 RAM, didn't work either.

If it is not the PSU, my secon suspect is the thermal pasting. But I'm not sure if it would cause reboots.


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## Intervention (Apr 19, 2020)

Hello. Do this and find out for sure if your system is truly stable. By stable I do not mean without faults, such as defective GPU, motherboard, or RAM. I mean stable as in settings. Download and run PRIME95 version 29.8. Once you open the program a windows will come up "Run A Torture Test." You will have options such as Run Small FFT's, Large FFT's, Blend, and Custom. Click on CUSTOM. In the boxes type: 448 (for min FFT size) and 4096 (for max FFT size). Make sure RUN FFT's in Place is unchecked. Set your "Memory to Use" to 80% of your total system RAM, i.e. 16GB=12GB to use. So in that case you would type in 12000. Then click OK. Let this run for a good 2 hours. If it passes all tests your system is stable, meaning CPU, Memory Controller, RAM and RAM settings ok. Nothing else out there, AIDA64, MEMTEST86, or anything at all that I myself have tried can give me this assurance as PRIME95 does.

I have been in the same situation. Every program I tested my PC with passed with flying colors. I could not figure out why certain games would crash, or why my system would reboot at times for seemingly no reason. Then I tried this and found my RAM was the culprit. I made the necessary adjustments and now my system rocks! I hope this helps.


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## MatrimC7 (Apr 19, 2020)

Harry Palms said:


> Hello. Do this and find out for sure if your system is truly stable. By stable I do not mean without faults, such as defective GPU, motherboard, or RAM. I mean stable as in settings. Download and run PRIME95 version 29.8. Once you open the program a windows will come up "Run A Torture Test." You will have options such as Run Small FFT's, Large FFT's, Blend, and Custom. Click on CUSTOM. In the boxes type: 448 (for min FFT size) and 4096 (for max FFT size). Make sure RUN FFT's in Place is unchecked. Set your "Memory to Use" to 80% of your total system RAM, e.i. 16GB=12GB to use. So in that case you would type in 12000. Then click OK. Let this run for a good 2 hours. If it passes all tests your system is stable, meaning CPU, Memory Controller, RAM and RAM settings ok. Nothing else out there, AIDA64, MEMTEST86, or anything at all that I myself have tried can give me this assurance as PRIME95 does.
> 
> I have been in the same situation. Every program I tested my PC with passed with flying colors. I could not figure out why certain games would crash, or why my system would reboot at times for seemingly no reason. Then I tried this and found my RAM was the culprit. I made the necessary adjustments and now my system rocks! I hope this helps.



Thank you. I started running the torture test as your instructions. I will let it run for at least 3 hours.

Also, should I be worried about the clicking sound coming from the HDD during these tests?


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## Intervention (Apr 19, 2020)

MatrimC7 said:


> Thank you. I started running the torture test as your instructions. I will let it run for at least 3 hours.
> 
> Also, should I be worried about the clicking sound coming from the HDD during these tests?


If you are concerned about your HDD health, download CrystalDiskInfo https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskinfo/ This is NOT a HDD test program, but it does show some information about your HDD, such as temperatures, and SMART status. If any errors have been picked up, the program will tell you.


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## MatrimC7 (Apr 19, 2020)

Harry Palms said:


> If you are concerned about your HDD health, download CrystalDiskInfo https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskinfo/ This is NOT a HDD test program, but it does show some information about your HDD, such as temperatures, and SMART status. If any errors have been picked up, the program will tell you.


So it's been exactly 3 Hours now Prime95 running with those exact settings, no errors or reboots so far. This is getting more and more frustrating. Does this mean my hardware is stable and no problem with the build with some level of certainty?

I really really hope that the new PSU will save the system.


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## Intervention (Apr 19, 2020)

MatrimC7 said:


> So it's been exactly 3 Hours now Prime95 running with those exact settings, no errors or reboots so far. This is getting more and more frustrating. Does this mean my hardware is stable and no problem with the build with some level of certainty?
> 
> I really really hope that the new PSU will save the system.


What psu do you currently have and what are you getting to replace it.


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## MatrimC7 (Apr 19, 2020)

I currently have Corsair CX750M 750W Bronze with Gray Logo. I am replacing it with Sesonic Focus PLus 750W 80+ Gold. 

I am going to run the Prime for total of 7 hours. So far CPU temp is average 65 C.


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## Caring1 (Apr 19, 2020)

MatrimC7 said:


> So it's been exactly 3 Hours now Prime95 running with those exact settings, no errors or reboots so far. This is getting more and more frustrating. Does this mean my hardware is stable and no problem with the build with some level of certainty?
> 
> I really really hope that the new PSU will save the system.


Your hardware seems fine, but the clicking in the Hard Drive could mean it is on the way out. Spinning drives shouldn't have a loud audible click.


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## MatrimC7 (Apr 19, 2020)

Caring1 said:


> Your hardware seems fine, but the clicking in the Hard Drive could mean it is on the way out. Spinning drives shouldn't have a loud audible click.



I have to say, I wasn't very gentle with the HDD while building the PC. I mean it took some considerable amount of time(and rather embarrassingly long) to figure out how to install the HDD to the case and there were some instances of me dropping the HDD on the ground. I mean I will not be surprised it it dies only after a week(it's been exactly 4 days today).


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## Caring1 (Apr 19, 2020)

Run the Hard Drive test that was linked above.
Dropping them is certainly a no no.


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## MatrimC7 (Apr 19, 2020)

According to CrystalDiskInfo, my HDD seems good(at least it what the program says):





Spoiler: HDD Test



----------------------------------------------------------------------------
CrystalDiskInfo 8.4.2 (C) 2008-2020 hiyohiyo
                                Crystal Dew World: https://crystalmark.info/
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

    OS : Windows 10  [10.0 Build 18363] (x64)
  Date : 2020/04/19 16:55:18

-- Controller Map ----------------------------------------------------------
 - Standart SATA AHCI Denetleyici [ATA]
 + Standart SATA AHCI Denetleyici [ATA]
   - ST2000DM008-2FR102
 - Standart SATA AHCI Denetleyici [ATA]
 + Standart NVM Express Denetleyicisi [SCSI]
   - Samsung SSD 970 EVO 500GB
 - Microsoft Depolama Alanları Denetleyicisi [SCSI]

-- Disk List ---------------------------------------------------------------
 (1) ST2000DM008-2FR102 : 2000,3 GB [0/0/0, pd1] - st
 (2) Samsung SSD 970 EVO 500GB : 500,1 GB [1/3/0, sq] - nv

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 (1) ST2000DM008-2FR102
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
           Model : ST2000DM008-2FR102
        Firmware : 0001
   Serial Number : WFL3RWV4
       Disk Size : 2000,3 GB (8,4/137,4/2000,3/2000,3)
     Buffer Size : Unknown
     Queue Depth : 32
    # of Sectors : 3907029168
   Rotation Rate : 7200 RPM
       Interface : Serial ATA
   Major Version : ACS-3
   Minor Version : ACS-3 Revision 5
   Transfer Mode : SATA/600 | SATA/600
  Power On Hours : 77 hours
  Power On Count : 24 count
     Temperature : 33 C (91 F)
   Health Status : Good
        Features : S.M.A.R.T., APM, 48bit LBA, NCQ, TRIM
       APM Level : 8080h [ON]
       AAM Level : ----
    Drive Letter : D:

-- S.M.A.R.T. --------------------------------------------------------------
ID Cur Wor Thr RawValues(6) Attribute Name
01 _81 _64 __6 0000079C9956 Read Error Rate
03 _98 _98 __0 000000000000 Spin-Up Time
04 100 100 _20 000000000018 Start/Stop Count
05 100 100 _10 000000000000 Reallocated Sectors Count
07 _68 _60 _45 0000005D4B01 Seek Error Rate
09 100 100 __0 BC350000004D Power-On Hours
0A 100 100 _97 000000000000 Spin Retry Count
0C 100 100 _20 000000000018 Power Cycle Count
B7 100 100 __0 000000000000 Vendor Specific
B8 100 100 _99 000000000000 End-to-End Error
BB 100 100 __0 000000000000 Reported Uncorrectable Errors
BC 100 _99 __0 000200020002 Command Timeout
BD 100 100 __0 000000000000 High Fly Writes
BE _67 _59 _40 000021160021 Airflow Temperature
BF 100 100 __0 000000000000 G-Sense Error Rate
C0 100 100 __0 000000000002 Power-off Retract Count
C1 100 100 __0 000000000783 Load/Unload Cycle Count
C2 _33 _41 __0 001300000021 Temperature
C3 _81 _64 __0 0000079C9956 Hardware ECC recovered
C5 100 100 __0 000000000000 Current Pending Sector Count
C6 100 100 __0 000000000000 Uncorrectable Sector Count
C7 200 200 __0 000000000000 UltraDMA CRC Error Count
F0 100 253 __0 540C0000002D Head Flying Hours
F1 100 253 __0 0000E912D86D Total Host Writes
F2 100 253 __0 0000A24075BF Total Host Reads

-- IDENTIFY_DEVICE ---------------------------------------------------------
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-- SMART_READ_DATA ---------------------------------------------------------
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-- SMART_READ_THRESHOLD ----------------------------------------------------
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----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 (2) Samsung SSD 970 EVO 500GB
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
           Model : Samsung SSD 970 EVO 500GB
        Firmware : 2B2QEXE7
   Serial Number : S466NX0MC04244J
       Disk Size : 500,1 GB
     Buffer Size : Unknown
    # of Sectors : 
   Rotation Rate : ---- (SSD)
       Interface : NVM Express
   Major Version : NVM Express 1.3
   Minor Version : 
   Transfer Mode : PCIe 3.0 x4 | PCIe 3.0 x4
  Power On Hours : 54 hours
  Power On Count : 25 count
      Host Reads : 1260 GB
     Host Writes : 1129 GB
     Temperature : 36 C (96 F)
   Health Status : Good (100 %)
        Features : S.M.A.R.T.
       APM Level : ----
       AAM Level : ----
    Drive Letter : C:

-- S.M.A.R.T. --------------------------------------------------------------
ID RawValues(6) Attribute Name
01 000000000000 Critical Warning
02 000000000135 Composite Temperature
03 000000000064 Available Spare
04 00000000000A Available Spare Threshold
05 000000000000 Percentage Used
06 0000002858B6 Data Units Read
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0A 000000000030 Controller Busy Time
0B 000000000019 Power Cycles
0C 000000000036 Power On Hours
0D 000000000004 Unsafe Shutdowns
0E 000000000000 Media and Data Integrity Errors
0F 000000000109 Number of Error Information Log Entries

-- IDENTIFY_DEVICE ---------------------------------------------------------
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-- SMART_NVME --------------------------------------------------------------
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----------



## Intervention (Apr 19, 2020)

I forgot to ask if you have verified that your RAM is in the QVL for your motherboard. This could cause false positive errors in many RAM tests. Reading everything you have posted and gathering all this information, it sounds, imo, that several things could be causing problems. 1, your HDD may have suffered damage due to you dropping it and only errors picked up under certain random instances thus the clicking sounds. 2, if the problem happens during video gaming, it may very well be your GPU. Early versions of RTX cards with Micron memory had issues with artifact, crashing, black screens and what not.


----------



## MatrimC7 (Apr 19, 2020)

I tried checking the MSI page for the QVL list but it doesn't work, I tried with different browsers, I even tried on mobile site but the compatibility section is not loading. I saw some forum posts about the issue. 

I really hope it's not the GPU though. I honestly don't know what would I do if that's the case. RMA? Would take months maybe.


----------



## Intervention (Apr 19, 2020)

B450 TOMAHAWK MAX | Motherboard  | MSI Global
					

Best AMD AM4 B450 ATX motherboard, Turbo M.2, Extended heatsink, USB 3.2 Gen 2, Mystic Light, MSI MAG




					www.msi.com
				




Also, try downloading MSI live update 6. Do a manual search for drivers, and BIOS. https://www.msi.com/page/live-update-5-manual


----------



## MatrimC7 (Apr 19, 2020)

Harry Palms said:


> B450 TOMAHAWK MAX | Motherboard  | MSI Global
> 
> 
> Best AMD AM4 B450 ATX motherboard, Turbo M.2, Extended heatsink, USB 3.2 Gen 2, Mystic Light, MSI MAG
> ...


Yes that page doesn't open with different browsers and even on mobile. But I researched from different sites, it seems like it's compitable with MSI B450 Tomahawk Max. Exact RAM model is geiL Evo X II AMD Edition 3200 MHz.


----------



## Intervention (Apr 19, 2020)

MatrimC7 said:


> Yes that page doesn't open with different browsers and even on mobile. But I researched from different sites, it seems like it's compitable with MSI B450 Tomahawk Max. Exact RAM model is geiL Evo X II AMD Edition 3200 MHz.




Okei, try https://www.msi.com/page/live-update-5-manual

Do a manual scan for drivers and newest bios. Just flip to the last tab on the program for the latest BIOS.


----------



## MatrimC7 (Apr 19, 2020)

Harry Palms said:


> Okei, try https://www.msi.com/page/live-update-5-manual
> 
> Do a manual scan for drivers and newest bios. Just flip to the last tab on the program for the latest BIOS.


My BIOS are up to date. I already installed the latest update on the first day. I checked just in case with the live update, it also says BIOS are up to date. The live update suggests to install some utilities, such as Gaming APP,  Command Center etc.


----------



## Intervention (Apr 19, 2020)

MatrimC7 said:


> My BIOS are up to date. I already installed the latest update on the first day. I checked just in case with the live update, it also says BIOS are up to date. The live update suggests to install some utilities, such as Gaming APP,  Command Center etc.


I'd skip the utilities. I do not install them myself. Try one last thing. Download and install FurMark and let it run for about an hour or so. I hope you have good case ventilation. You will need it.


----------



## MatrimC7 (Apr 19, 2020)

Harry Palms said:


> I'd skip the utilities. I do not install them myself. Try one last thing. Download and install FurMark and let it run for about an hour or so. I hope you have good case ventilation. You will need it.


I also already tried Furmark several times. I even ran Furmark and Aida64 at the same time for around 50 minutes, no errors or reboots. After 50 minutes, temps were around 70. GPU 69, CPU 77 Maximum. 

Oh, I only have stock fans on my case though. I am planning to buy 2 more to get some better airflow in the future.


----------



## Intervention (Apr 19, 2020)

MatrimC7 said:


> I also already tried Furmark several times. I even ran Furmark and Aida64 at the same time for around 50 minutes, no errors or reboots. After 50 minutes, temps were around 70. GPU 69, CPU 77 Maximum.
> 
> Oh, I only have stock fans on my case though. I am planning to buy 2 more to get some better airflow in the future.



Then it could very well be your PSU. I hope the new PSU fixes your issues. I know the feeling man, its stressful. I've been there. Wish you the best!


----------



## MatrimC7 (Apr 19, 2020)

Thanks man. Thank you all for your time and suggestions.

Prime95 is runnig with your suggested settings for 5 hours now, no errors. But some kind of chemical smell started to coming from the case, I guess it's from the CPU area. It is like a cleaning product smell so I turned off the test just in case.

I guess at this point, there is nothing more I can do to wait until the new PSU comes.

Edit: Not sure but the weird smell can also be coming from the PSU. I about to lose my sense of smelling by trying to sniff it too much, but I would say 30% CPU, %70 PSU. 

Another edit: Okay I apologise for being totally nonsensical but now I think the smell is coming from my kitchen. It may very well be psychological.


----------



## Intervention (Apr 19, 2020)

MatrimC7 said:


> Thanks man. Thank you all for your time and suggestions.
> 
> Prime95 is runnig with your suggested settings for 5 hours now, no errors. But some kind of chemical smell started to coming from the case, I guess it's from the CPU area. It is like a cleaning product smell so I turned off the test just in case.
> 
> ...



LOL you're cooking Ryzen cpus in your kitchen?


----------



## MatrimC7 (Apr 19, 2020)

Harry Palms said:


> LOL you're cooking Ryzen cpus in your kitchen?


Hahahaha. No I think my neighbor downstairs was cleaning his house. I can pretty much smell anything they do down there weirdly. 

Or my CPU or motherboard was cooking I don't know haha. I turned off the system now for couple hours just in case.


----------



## Intervention (Apr 19, 2020)

MatrimC7 said:


> Hahahaha. No I think my neighbor downstairs was cleaning his house. I can pretty much smell anything they do down there weirdly.
> 
> Or my CPU or motherboard was cooking I don't know haha. I turned off the system now for couple hours just in case.




Have you by any chance looked at the VRM temps under load? I like HWinfo. Does a pretty good job. Though if your system passed the Prime95  custom run I told you of, I don't think there is much left to push. So far your gpu and psu are questionable.


----------



## MatrimC7 (Apr 19, 2020)

Harry Palms said:


> Have you by any chance looked at the VRM temps under load? I like HWinfo. Does a pretty good job. Though if your system passed the Prime95  custom run I told you of, I don't think there is much left to push. So far your gpu and psu are questionable.


Yep I monitored all the temps with HWMonitor during tests. I don't remember the exact temps but they were also within normal range.

Huh.

After downclocking the GPU memory clock by -200 on MSI Afterburner(I first tried -100, rebooted again), I was able to finish a match at PES 2020. I will also test with other games normally causes crash too to see if it's stable or not.

Nope. 2nd match rebooted again. Went under -250 MHz, Modern Warfare Multiplayer rebooted again.

Ok first ever benchmark/stress test reboot. I downloaded Furmark ROG edition and ran it on 1440p with ROG+11 settings while artifact scanning is checked. After around 4 minutes mark the system rebooted. Temp was around 68 to the point of reboot.


----------



## Intervention (Apr 19, 2020)

MatrimC7 said:


> Yep I monitored all the temps with HWMonitor during tests. I don't remember the exact temps but they were also within normal range.
> 
> Huh.
> 
> ...



At this point I am leaning more toward your GPU being the culprit. If you can navigate through MSI afterburner and enable memory monitoring, see if there is an option to monitor, VRM and VRAM temps. Also, using GPUZ you should be able to figure out who makes your VRAM. Is it Micron? Samsung? If it is Micron, I would try and find out what VRAM temperature is during load. Also GPU VRM temps.


----------



## MatrimC7 (Apr 19, 2020)

I believe it's Samsung. At least GPU-z says so. Of course if I'm checking the correct section: Memory: GDDR6 (Samsung)




About the VRAM temps, I have to admit I am a little confused. There is a section on HWInfo about VRM Temp, is it same with VRAM temp? If so, during load the VRM Temps were also around 70.

Ah, to be honest I didn't check the VRM temps, so I'm not sure about the temps during load. But at least in last 5 minutes, it was almost same as GPU Temp, around 30 C.


----------



## oobymach (Apr 19, 2020)

When my 3600x setup was crashing during gaming it was a cpu voltage issue. I use a manual overclock of 4.225ghz and needed to boost the voltage a bit in order to fix the issue. Specifically it needed an extra .02 volts to run without crashing so in bios I went from 1.25 to 1.27 volts and system hasn't crashed since. It was stable in every test at the lower voltage too so it wasn't easy to track down the culprit.


----------



## Intervention (Apr 19, 2020)

oobymach said:


> When my 3600x setup was crashing during gaming it was a cpu voltage issue. I use a manual overclock of 4.225ghz and needed to boost the voltage a bit in order to fix the issue. Specifically it needed an extra .02 volts to run without crashing so in bios I went from 1.25 to 1.27 volts and system hasn't crashed since. It was stable in every test at the lower voltage too so it wasn't easy to track down the culprit.



He's not overclocking.


----------



## MatrimC7 (Apr 19, 2020)

oobymach said:


> When my 3600x setup was crashing during gaming it was a cpu voltage issue. I use a manual overclock of 4.225ghz and needed to boost the voltage a bit in order to fix the issue. Specifically it needed an extra .02 volts to run without crashing so in bios I went from 1.25 to 1.27 volts and system hasn't crashed since. It was stable in every test at the lower voltage too so it wasn't easy to track down the culprit.


I'm not sure if it's the same thing, but according to CPU-Z, Core Voltage is changing around 1.2-.1.432.

I just checked my BIOS, the voltage settings are on Auto. I will upload the pic below just to be sure I'm talking about the same thing:


----------



## Intervention (Apr 19, 2020)

MatrimC7 said:


> I'm not sure if it's the same thing, but according to CPU-Z, Core Voltage is changing around 1.2-.1.432.
> 
> I just checked my BIOS, the voltage settings are on Auto. I will upload the pic below just to be sure I'm talking about the same thing:
> 
> View attachment 152097View attachment 152098



Your voltage settings are correct. Normal for a stock 3600x. Try resetting your BIOS to default settings. Run games and see if issue persists. If it does, set PBO to disabled.

BTW how are you running your RAM @3200mhz if your AXMP profile is disabled?? Manually?


----------



## MatrimC7 (Apr 19, 2020)

Harry Palms said:


> Your voltage settings are correct. Normal for a stock 3600x. Try resetting your BIOS to default settings. Run games and see if issue persists. If it does, set PBO to disabled.
> 
> BTW how are you running your RAM @3200mhz if your AXMP profile is disabled?? Manually?



Yes manually. I tried to change it to 3200MHz to see if it will affect anything. It didn't.


----------



## oobymach (Apr 20, 2020)

Harry Palms said:


> He's not overclocking.


I saw you guys troubleshot it to a possible psu issue, just wanted to add my 2 cents.



MatrimC7 said:


> I'm not sure if it's the same thing, but according to CPU-Z, Core Voltage is changing around 1.2-.1.432.
> 
> I just checked my BIOS, the voltage settings are on Auto. I will upload the pic below just to be sure I'm talking about the same thing:
> 
> View attachment 152097View attachment 152098


Only thing I can think of to boost voltage a bit on auto (assuming issue is simply voltage related like mine was) is Load Line Calibration, go into DigitALL Power in your bios and it should be in there, try setting it to one of the middle options instead of auto and test it. Don't use the highest option.


----------



## Intervention (Apr 20, 2020)

Hello again. I would not use LLC unless you are manually overclocking. Leaving your voltage on AUTO and adding LLC will overshoot your voltages, possibly destroying your CPU. From experience, I'd advice you guys who use AMD Ryzen CPU's to simply stick to stock speeds, AUTO voltage, Enable PBO, get either Micron E-Die, or Samsung B-Die memory and tinker with the RAM, not the CPU speeds. AMD Ryzen CPU's are very capable CPU's out of the box, both for gaming and productivity. Like I said, just enable PBO and you're set to go- Let the motherboard take control.

Ram on the other hand is where the performance can be improved and make a huge difference. Micron E-Die and Samsung B-Die are well known IC's for overclocking and will definately boost your gaming performance when tweaking out the timings, and sub-timings. Use the Ryzen Calculator found here at Techpowerup. Download Thaiphoon burner to read your memory specs and get the information the calculator will ask you for. You DO NOT need to upload your memory profile into the calculator as many try to lead you to believe. I have tried this and followed the recommended settings and it in fact makes things unstable.

Just use the calculator without the RAM profile uploaded and set the correct info obtained from Thaiphoon burner to fill in the boxes with the information required and use the Safe setting or Fast setting. I bought a Ballistic Sport 3000Mhz CL15 16GB kit of RAM a while back which comes with E-Die IC's. This kit I am currently running at 3733Mhz CL16-19-16-16-36 TRFC 560 and other sub-timings tightened up. My read score is 52363MB, Write 51363MB, Copy 61035MB, and Latency 65.3. Running FarCry 5 using the included benchmark, my avg FPS went from 110 @1080p ultra settings, to 125FPS just by simply adjusting the memory.

Summing things up, do not overclock your Ryzen 3000 series CPU. Its not worth it unless you get one like mine. My Ryzen 3600 non-X model does 4.5Ghz on all cores, auto voltage, no LLC needed 24-7 stable. This is a golden sample as I call it  Voltages stay around 1.43v under full load. Temps never go above 80c using my Noctua NH-D15. Just tweak your RAM and test every overclocking with PRIME95 Custom run 448 min FFT-4096 max FFT. Uncheck Run in place. Set Memory to Use to 80% of total sytem RAM. Run test for at least 2 hours. If your system passes this hellish run, congratulations. You are one of the few out there that actually has a true stable RAM overclock. Cheers.


----------



## MatrimC7 (Apr 20, 2020)

OK, I know I am repeating myself but, I just finished an almost 2 hours gameplay of Read Dead Redemption 2 a minute ago. With all the settings maxed out. No crashes or reboots. While the system crashes on PES 2020 or Football Manager, it's just weird. I did reversed all the BIOS settings to default, but didn't turn off the PMO. I didn't try the games usually caused crash too, I guess I just don't want to experience any other reboot. 

I wasn't particularly happy with the performance but I think it was understandable. Never went under 30 FPS but still wasn't really smooth. 

Also, I think the shadows were a little off, kind of like a grained(or noisy) photo(I saved some clips just in case). 

Anyway, I probably have the new PSU tomorrow, around afternoon. I guess I will just wait then.


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## Fry178 (Apr 21, 2020)

@Harry Palms
PBO should not be used (there is no conclusive proof it always will improve perf) especially not on a rig with stock fans.
b-die isnt always a guarantee (the 2 i tried only did xmp 18/22/1T@1.37, the non-e micron i have does 16/19/1T@1.35),
and going past 1800 mhz isnt useful for most, considering IF will run at lower speed.
prime95 isnt bulletproof, and stuff can still be unstable even if it passes P95 test.


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## MatrimC7 (Apr 21, 2020)

Guys, I got the new PSU, Seasonic Focus Plus 750W 80+ Gold. And, so far it's working!

I just played 2 games on Modern Warfare Multiplayer. Now I will try PES 2020.


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## Regeneration (Apr 21, 2020)

We don't trash talk Corsair PSUs for no good reason.


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## MatrimC7 (Apr 21, 2020)

PES 2020 also working. No reboots during a match, although I was able to finish a match occasionally with my old Corsair PSU too.

I am still having some anxiety while playing games though, I think I can relax after couple of days with stability. I really hope I will not update this thread with another cry for help .

Apart from that, I really want to thank all of you. I learned a lot of thing while trying to understand the problem and trying your solutions or instructions. I genuinely thank you all.

But, I am little curious about why the PSU was causing reboot only on certain games at certain points? Could it be poorly optimized games forcing the GPU(or CPU or RAM)requiring more power at one point and the PSU can't handle that?

Now I guess I will focus on some better airflow on my case. I am looking at some 140mm fans.


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## Regeneration (Apr 21, 2020)

It failed everytime the GPU reached maximum power consumption. Usually happens in stable high fps scenarios.


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## Intervention (Apr 21, 2020)

Fry178 said:


> @Harry Palms
> PBO should not be used (there is no conclusive proof it always will improve perf) especially not on a rig with stock fans.
> b-die isnt always a guarantee (the 2 i tried only did xmp 18/22/1T@1.37, the non-e micron i have does 16/19/1T@1.35),
> and going past 1800 mhz isnt useful for most, considering IF will run at lower speed.
> prime95 isnt bulletproof, and stuff can still be unstable even if it passes P95 test.



Sounds like you got rebuttal to everything I have to say. Reminds me of my wife lol. I don't want to get into a right or wrong discussion. But it does sound like your opinion on every single point you touched on is based on your very own experience, irrelevant to the context. 

It is a very well known little fact Samsung B-Die and Micro E-Die are good ic's for overclocking. Never said it is garranteed. 

PBO has been proven to help in single core performance, especially in games. Granted not a whole lot, but it does help under the right conditions. 

I have tested quite a few RAM kits using various settings with multiple boards, namely X570 boards and have seen dramatic improvements in performance while running 1:1 ratio @1866mhz. Even at 1900mhz or 3800mhz CL16-16-16-39 1:1 ratio. 15-20 fps improvements on avg. 

Prime95 custom run is the way to go when testing for RAM stability using the afor mentioned settings. Period. 

When in doubt, please read again.


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## Fry178 (Apr 22, 2020)

@Harry Palms 
the fact your comparing me to someone else based on posts in a forum, tells me a lot, independent of right/wrong stuff.

my problem is you telling someone to turn on pbo, on a rig that already has stability issues.
or recommending to go up in mhz/lower timings, again, on a rig with stability issues, not someone looking to squeeze out the last drop of performance.
or stating to not oc ryzen, yet thats what pbo does (goes past stock settings).


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## Intervention (Apr 22, 2020)

Fry178 said:


> @Harry Palms
> the fact your comparing me to someone else based on posts in a forum, tells me a lot, independent of right/wrong stuff.
> 
> my problem is you telling someone to turn on pbo, on a rig that already has stability issues.
> ...



I appreciate you keeping it civil. I did not expect you to have a problem on a forum with anyone. I myself have a problem when my accountant sends me a bill for $1200. Granted I should be more consistent with my receipts LOL. If you read the comment you're referring to again, you will see I am speaking in a general sense. To anyone owning a Ryzen CPU. Fry178, I wont keep going on about this. I do not want your problem to become bigger for you in your mind. Just enjoy your day sir.


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## MatrimC7 (Apr 25, 2020)

Hello again all, I have some questions about CPU temps,

Yesterday, after heavy gaming and usage, I realized around midnight that my CPU cooler was louder than before on a consistent basis. Normally it would get loud only when I was gaming but fairly quite on idle. Yesterday it was louder for almost an hour straight on idle. So I started to check temps, I realized the CPU temps are around 55-60 and sometimes over 60 on idle. The room temp was actually pretty low and GPU temp were around 25-30 on idle. Also, when I touch the case it was cool too.

While I was making some research, I realized(please don't judge me) that I actually put the cooler fan on the wrong way, outtake instead of intake.

Today I fixed this, and while fixing it I also tightened the screws of the heatsink a little bit.

But after that, when I check the HWInfo, CPU temps on around 55-65 on idle. That is a little worrying I'm sure. But, when I check the temps on Ryzen Master, it is around 30-40. So there is around 20 C difference between values on HWInfo and Ryzen Master. As can be seen below screenshot:




First, which one I should trust? Ryzen Master or HWInfo? Although at the moment, for around 20 minutes HWInfo also shows similar values with Ryzen Master, around 35 on idle, there is maybe 5C difference. But I'm still a little confused because while I was monitoring the temps on both software, there was around 20C difference for some time(around an hour).

And secondly, I think I need to reapply the thermal paste and reinstall the cooler, but it is impossible for another 3-4 days due to curfew(I have to buy isopropyl alcohol and new thermal paste). Would this somehow damage my CPU if I continue using it like that?

Thanks again.

Edit: So apparently this was another stupid question. Now I have an idea about the Tctl and die values. While average 35-40 C on idle is not ideal, I think it's not concerning considering I don't have any airflow on the case.


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## ghostkenghost (Apr 18, 2021)

HEY @MatrimC7  OP READ THIS: It is definitely your CX750M. I replaced mine with the Seasonic SSR-550-FX and now it works fine. The crashes and restarts are gone.
The CX750M has the issue for sure
I am currently having the exact same issue with these specs:

GTX 1650 SUper
I5 9400
CX750M PSU
2x8GB Gskill aegis 2666
ASus b365M-A
sabrent rocket Q 1 TB 2280 NVMe
It seems the CX750M is trash. It has this issue with so many other people online having the same problem. Just google CX750M restarts


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## FreedomEclipse (Apr 18, 2021)

MatrimC7 said:


> Hello again all, I have some questions about CPU temps,
> 
> Yesterday, after heavy gaming and usage, I realized around midnight that my CPU cooler was louder than before on a consistent basis. Normally it would get loud only when I was gaming but fairly quite on idle. Yesterday it was louder for almost an hour straight on idle. So I started to check temps, I realized the CPU temps are around 55-60 and sometimes over 60 on idle. The room temp was actually pretty low and GPU temp were around 25-30 on idle. Also, when I touch the case it was cool too.
> 
> ...



Did you add more casefans?


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