Friday, August 18th 2023
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Corsair Launches PC DIY Precision Toolkit
Many of you are most likely familiar with iFixit's various toolkits, even if you don't happen to own one, as they've become quite famous all around the world as affordable, yet good quality tools. Now Corsair has decided to jump into the toolkit marketspace with its PC DIY Precision Toolkit, which is very similar to iFixit's Mako Driver Kit. Both kits come with a flexible extension rod, but where Corsair bests iFixit is when it comes to the actual driver handle, as it has a much better grip and the top cap appears to be made of aluminium rather than plastic. The box is also very similar, as both kits are kept closed with magnets and both have a magnetic insert in the lid which will hold your screws in place while you disassemble whatever it is you're trying to fix or upgrade.
The two toolkits also differ in terms of the kind of bits you get, with Corsair providing some extremely fine tool sizes, especially for Philips and pentalobe compared to iFixit, although iFixit has smaller Torx sizes in their kit. Corsair also offers more socket bits than iFixit, but loses some other bits like the SIM ejection bit and a magnetic pick-up bit. Overall Corsair provides 65 bits vs 64 for iFixit, so it really comes down to which bits make the most sense for you. Corsair also charges US$5 less for their kit compared to iFixit, with an MSRP of US$34.99.
Source:
Corsair
The two toolkits also differ in terms of the kind of bits you get, with Corsair providing some extremely fine tool sizes, especially for Philips and pentalobe compared to iFixit, although iFixit has smaller Torx sizes in their kit. Corsair also offers more socket bits than iFixit, but loses some other bits like the SIM ejection bit and a magnetic pick-up bit. Overall Corsair provides 65 bits vs 64 for iFixit, so it really comes down to which bits make the most sense for you. Corsair also charges US$5 less for their kit compared to iFixit, with an MSRP of US$34.99.
59 Comments on Corsair Launches PC DIY Precision Toolkit
I'm sure there are better ones, but the fact that a loud of them also have a smooth surface, makes it hard to grip them properly as well. $35 is a hell of a lot of money?
And it's nice that you have the money to spend on brand name tools, most people don't.
I've built several PC's over they years using a ratchet screwdriver with interchangeable bits and a 25+ year old Leatherman wave tool.
I guess I've always done a shit job due to to my tools then? More and more electronics are using weird screws these days. My Acer laptop that I got last year uses T5 screws to get into. The first screwdriver I got, the bit obliterated itself when I tried to get into it. Yes, it was $10, but it was the only suitable tool available locally at the time. Yes, I'm nosey, but I also upgraded the SSD in it and technically never have to touch it now.
It's actually nice to have some small sockets as well for the motherboard stand-offs, it makes it a bit quicker and easier to install them.
That said, I'll admit I'll never use half of the bits in this kit, but at least I should have something for almost anything I want to crack open in the future...
I did build a lot at my house on my own. I had cheaper Screw Drivers and had to screw around +5.000 Screws into wood. The cheap one lastet 100 Drives. Then they damaged the srews. I bought an expensive Spax Bitset and also Spax screws. I still have the Set using it all the tie. They look quote new. I hadn't had a problem with them and the appropriate screws. Not even one. I bought a cheap Dremel cole and also an riginal. The clone one makes a hell of problems. The original just works. I used cole tools for that machine. I.e. a clone wire brush was gone within minutes. The original one still works. Within the last time i hat to "dig a hole" in my brand new case because of a Distroplate. I did that with the original dremel with no problems whilst the cheap one stopped a lot when working. That's what i mean with "good tools provide good work". It's a thing i learned already 40 years ago when i was trained on my 1st job.
I said that i don't understand people buying and also using such sets. Nothing more. Nothing less. If you feel fine with your tools it is your story. Not mine.
www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00IMF1CCU
www.amazon.de/gp/product/B009ODV0PI
www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0001P18OQ
www.amazon.de/gp/product/B007BSNOCU (I used especially this ones at my 3D printer where i also worked higher voltages)
That aren't mechanics tools at all. To say it clearly. If one buys 7 of such tools he pays the same than at such a chinese set for marketing and cash digging reasons like iFixit or (in this case) Corsair. This are also no fancy tools. Only highly professional tools and no toys. When i look at my tools and the things i do i need always less than 8 drivers. They cost less than 40 Euros by Wera. Round about the same price range than that set. What will last longer? I can trust on my drivers. No matter how hard the skrews are used to be drilled by a manufactorer. Now and also in 10 or 20 years.
Wera isn't fancy? :roll:
Oh you Germans crack me up with your jokes.
There's a saying about "a poor craftsman blames his tools" that maybe we could convert here to "a poor craftsman has to rely on the best tools"
If you don't know about simple things about electricity don'r offend others with your non existing knowledge. Otherwise you only blame yourself. My 3D Printer, a Anycubic Predator Delta FDM, has a 850W PSU inside. When connecting a PSU imside a 3D Printer it's better to have tools that can withstand 1000V. The power line gets into the printer and is screwed to the PSU. Inside the PSU are a lot of capacitors with a voltage of at least 240V. That 240V of power is routed directly to a relay for the heated bed. So your knowledge about 3D printers and electricity is not that educated as you might thought. As usual one should not trust about safety in chinese products. You have to consider that I didn't got my diploma in communication electronics for nothing.
So again:
I don't understand that people buy that cheap marketing toolsets.
In the US, $35 gets you this from Wera ($30 if you go Amazon):
It has exactly two of the bits I use most frequently in PC maintenance, PH1 and PH2. No P0, P00, 1/4 or 5mm driver. Also no flex extension. The least expensive bit kit by them that comes even close to anything resembling comprehensive in the same way as this is will set you back at least another $35. However, neither it nor any Wera kit at any price that I can find has penta, tri-wing triangle, or U-drive. Maybe another manufacturer of their class does. How many hobbyists know of or have access to those, and can stomach the cost if they do? Or even need tools of that caliber? You're being elitist about this, and I don't know why.
I wouldn't say that i', a elitist. I would describe me as a quite normal user who is reflectong what he is doing and what for i pay. I wouldn't buy that set as i feel that bits are not practical for smaller spaces. Also i never needed or used a flex extension. I got that set:
www.amazon.de/gp/product/B009ODV0PI
and bought 2 or 3 more different drivers from that asortment
www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0001P18OQ?th=1
At my 3D printer i needed Torx like no good. I don't like Inbus as those don't transfer that torque a Torx can do. I also used a lot of Screwlock (glue) in the moving parts aside that self locking nuts. There one needs quite a lot more torque than with normal nuts. I even used that locking nuts when modifying my side panel to holt the distroplate. Next i will use them to change the original cooler on a graphics card with a waterblock. I would not want to use cheap drivers or bits on that as there is a lack of control when using. One doesn't feel that exactly how much torque is used. The screws usually are tightened that hard that one need real good tools to unscrew them (in my opinion). I only use philips or inbus drivers when i'm assembling a computer. Sometimes i exchange them. I.e. when mounting fans or radiators. EKWB uses M3 and M4. Both screws of them i have laying around with different heads, nuts, washers, etc. If you gonna see a good working car garage in the us you will also see that they use Snap-On tools but no cheaper ones. Thats what I learned when I lived 2,5 yrs in Atlanta, Ga. In germany it is the same. They use Würth tools.If one cannopt afford those tools thats ok. Thats a reason. But when one can afford high quality but buy only cheap chinese tools is a quite different story. I also use tools that are not available here. I had to order them at AliExpress. I'm not at a judging position. It's not that i want to offend or grant someone. I try to understand that mindset. Why people acting that way.
It's about quality and how one thinks about. If one accept low quality in his tools he will also produce partwise lower quality. If you charge the highest level of quality in your work you dont allow that your tools are low on quality. As easy as that. It's a simple question of the mindset. I do not accept my work to be at a lower than the highest level of quality. No Matter if i work as a project Manager in IT, developing software or just hang on a board or build a computer. I do not make compromises anyway. Everybody can act as he/she wants. But how come such a mindset. Thats the question i have. I also have an other question why a lot of people don't want to learn all the time.
I did calculate the appropriate PSU and was told that 1.000W is the minimum. I will have a 7950x, a watercooled RX 6950XT, 64GB of Ram, 2 SSD (2&4TB) an BluRay burner, some USB stories, 2 AquaComputer Farbwerk360 & 1 AquaComputer Quadro and my watercooling system. 1 D5, 13 Fans,... The recommended calculation by BeQuet was around 1200Watts. You own a similar system and a 850W PSU is enough.
As for the toolkit, I may check it out, I have an old set of ifixit stuff that I have abused the shit out of, lol. Can't really blame them for that though.
But enjoy your nice tools, who doesn't like nice things anyway
The 850W did apply to two different topics at once. ;) To my PC which has a 850W PSU and also about my 3D FDM Printer that also has a 850W PSU. ;)
@trsttte:
You really have no glue how a bigger FDM 3D Printer works. You also have no knowledge about how a PSU works. How to get DC out of AC and so on. You always have a 110V/240V heated bed when the current needed to heat gets higher. Just one little thought How big cables have to be to transport 36A at 24V. That is by power equal to 3,6A at 240V. And as 240V heating beds are not used anyway they are manufactored and sold: e3d-online.com/products/high-temperature-heated-beds. I own an Anycubic Predator FDM Printer. It has a round bed (Delta) of 370mm in diameterwith a height of around 400+ mm. You will never be able to heat it up to 80°C when using 24V or (also possible) 12V.
In germany we have an old but well known author. Wilhelm Busch. He wrote i.e. "Max and Moritz: A Story of Seven Boyish Pranks".
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Max_and_Moritz#:~:text=Der%20Fall%20Max%20und%20Moritz,regulations%20of%20the%20German%20Strafgesetzbuch.
He said: "Der Klügere gibt nach, deshalb regiert Dummheit die Welt". Let me try to translate. "The smarter give in. Therefore stupidity rules the world". My grandma always told me not to argue with a fool, they would bring me down to their level and then win by home advantage. It has no worth for anybody to discuss with you about tools or the way a printer works as long as you don't even have a glue what you are talking about. The next step would be that you start to offend me directly. You are right, I mean calm.
You really are a worst possible scenario kind of guy, no?
I must've built close to a thousand computers in my life, as I worked in two different computer shops back in the day, plus all the other computers I've build for work or friends and obviously myself and I have never, ever had to put a screwdriver in a PSU.
Also, we're way off topic now...
In younger times i did also setup complete Car hifi systems. So also there a high current source one has to disconnect first. I also add new sockets in my home, add lamps etc. I'm familar to electrical works. I passen a vocational training as an electrician before geting to universities. You might now that the germans are strikt on that trainings. The german government and insurances allow me zo do such things. I would be able to earn less that 50% of my commercial revenues by doing electrician tasks.
So i'm quite keen in using high professional tools. In germany it is forbidden for a commercial worker to do something on electrics without a tool complying the VDE norms. And such toolkits (to be btt) did never apply or pass such a test. Also chinese tools. And that's why i don't use them. As i said before. I'm not suicidal. But there is still my question why others do so. I can use my tools also on sockets. If connected they could safe my life. No matter one should work in safety and unplug first and check if it is unplugged.
I have a really cheap set of tools for watches. It was really cheap, and it's quite bad, but for what I do (replacing batteries in watches and some very light random tinkering) it's great. I could spend a few hundred dollars on a proper set of tools (used!) but thay would be a waste of money. It's the same with any tool. If all I do with a wire cutter is cut some random wires a few times per year it wouldn 't make sense to buy a €100 Lindström. Wera screwdrivers is a waste of money if all you do is the occasional tinkering with computers. I could buy a proper Fluke DMM, but it'd be a waste for my use case. I could buy a €400 tool set for the car, but I would use like three of the tools once every other year. Buying stuff not needed is a waste of money.
These collections of tools are great for general tinkering. They aren't meant to replace a collection of tools a pro has spent years and a lot of money to build up. They also take up little space.
Here's the replacement part if you burn yours too: www.anycubic.com/products/ultrabase-hotbed-platform-380x380mm-for-predator
Anyway, this is pretty far from the topic anyway so whatever, have fun