lZKoceAlways wodnered about the electric precision screwdrivers they show on videos (like Mi Stick e.g) ...bzzt...bzzt....bzzt....look really cool, but do they really work? Will you find the "right" torque? I mean screwing by hand just gives me a sense of control.

I was given a very cheap one that used two AAA batteries and it was crap. The torque simply wasn't there and there was obviously no setting for it. Couldn't remove anything that had been fastened by hand...
I'm sure there are better ones, but the fact that a loud of them also have a smooth surface, makes it hard to grip them properly as well.

gurusmiI own smaller and larger highest quality Wera screw drivers. The big ones are insulated and safe below 1000V. Torx, Philips, Hex drivers from Imbus,... All the tools i ever needed when building on my 3D Printer and also on my rigs. My FDM Pronter is a delta. Original is only the frame, the heated bed and the PSU. Everything else is substituted. I also build all of my rigs on my own. I own more tools at home than most companies in their offices. All of them from well known brands. Only with good tools one produce good work.

I don't understand why people are buying such things. To tell everybody that they paid a hell of money for their tools they don't know how to use?

$35 is a hell of a lot of money?
And it's nice that you have the money to spend on brand name tools, most people don't.
I've built several PC's over they years using a ratchet screwdriver with interchangeable bits and a 25+ year old Leatherman wave tool.
I guess I've always done a shit job due to to my tools then?

zmeulI work in tech support and I don't understand these kitts, the only reason I use my iFixit is when I have to open consoles because of the Torx Secure screws
other than that, when opening laptops or fixing/building PCs I use standard long shaft standalone drivers - I found that my thin precision Phillips driver has a tendency to cam out, this is why I use a slightly thicker and longer driver on laptops
the other problem with replaceable bits is when you have to go into tight spaces, the width of the driver is a problem - when I install big tower coolers I always use my Unior long shaft Phillips driver; it's also very useful when putting the mobo inside wide cases because standard length drivers will have the handle hitting the side of the case and that could drive the screw at an angle instead of straight in

More and more electronics are using weird screws these days. My Acer laptop that I got last year uses T5 screws to get into. The first screwdriver I got, the bit obliterated itself when I tried to get into it. Yes, it was $10, but it was the only suitable tool available locally at the time. Yes, I'm nosey, but I also upgraded the SSD in it and technically never have to touch it now.

It's actually nice to have some small sockets as well for the motherboard stand-offs, it makes it a bit quicker and easier to install them.

That said, I'll admit I'll never use half of the bits in this kit, but at least I should have something for almost anything I want to crack open in the future...

An old german proverb says: "Who buys cheap buys double". My wera set hasn't been more expensive than this set. I paid around €30. It has 8 or 10 drivers really needed. Torx, Philips,... All one really needs. One need around 5 bits of that iFixit set. If one don't buy that unneeded he can also afford better tools. Btw. Also my ratchet sets are also Wera. ;) If one bought such a toolset only twice because of damaged drivers that one paid a lot more than buying a more expensive high quality set.

I did build a lot at my house on my own. I had cheaper Screw Drivers and had to screw around +5.000 Screws into wood. The cheap one lastet 100 Drives. Then they damaged the srews. I bought an expensive Spax Bitset and also Spax screws. I still have the Set using it all the tie. They look quote new. I hadn't had a problem with them and the appropriate screws. Not even one. I bought a cheap Dremel cole and also an riginal. The clone one makes a hell of problems. The original just works. I used cole tools for that machine. I.e. a clone wire brush was gone within minutes. The original one still works. Within the last time i hat to "dig a hole" in my brand new case because of a Distroplate. I did that with the original dremel with no problems whilst the cheap one stopped a lot when working. That's what i mean with "good tools provide good work". It's a thing i learned already 40 years ago when i was trained on my 1st job.

I said that i don't understand people buying and also using such sets. Nothing more. Nothing less. If you feel fine with your tools it is your story. Not mine.

TheLostSwedeLeatherman wave tool

I don't have one but that happy crow cheers me up every time I see it mentioned -

WirkoI don't have one but that happy crow cheers me up every time I see it mentioned -

Upgraded to one of those last year. The old one I have is a lot more basic and has caught some weird corrosion in Taiwan :p

gurusmiAn old german proverb says: "Who buys cheap buys double". My wera set hasn't been more expensive than this set. I paid around €30. It has 8 or 10 drivers really needed. Torx, Philips,... All one really needs. One need around 5 bits of that iFixit set. If one don't buy that unneeded he can also afford better tools. Btw. Also my ratchet sets are also Wera. ;) If one bought such a toolset only twice because of damaged drivers that one paid a lot more than buying a more expensive high quality set.

I did build a lot at my house on my own. I had cheaper Screw Drivers and had to screw around +5.000 Screws into wood. The cheap one lastet 100 Drives. Then they damaged the srews. I bought an expensive Spax Bitset and also Spax screws. I still have the Set using it all the tie. They look quote new. I hadn't had a problem with them and the appropriate screws. Not even one. I bought a cheap Dremel cole and also an riginal. The clone one makes a hell of problems. The original just works. I used cole tools for that machine. I.e. a clone wire brush was gone within minutes. The original one still works. Within the last time i hat to "dig a hole" in my brand new case because of a Distroplate. I did that with the original dremel with no problems whilst the cheap one stopped a lot when working. That's what i mean with "good tools provide good work". It's a thing i learned already 40 years ago when i was trained on my 1st job.

I said that i don't understand people buying and also using such sets. Nothing more. Nothing less. If you feel fine with your tools it is your story. Not mine.

I build PCs, or at least used to. No need for fancy tools, as if you need to use that much torque, you're going to break the parts. I also fiddle with electronics, no need again for builders or mechanics tools. We all have different needs, which is the point you're missing here.

Mechanics tools?

www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00IMF1CCU
www.amazon.de/gp/product/B009ODV0PI
www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0001P18OQ
www.amazon.de/gp/product/B007BSNOCU (I used especially this ones at my 3D printer where i also worked higher voltages)

That aren't mechanics tools at all. To say it clearly. If one buys 7 of such tools he pays the same than at such a chinese set for marketing and cash digging reasons like iFixit or (in this case) Corsair. This are also no fancy tools. Only highly professional tools and no toys. When i look at my tools and the things i do i need always less than 8 drivers. They cost less than 40 Euros by Wera. Round about the same price range than that set. What will last longer? I can trust on my drivers. No matter how hard the skrews are used to be drilled by a manufactorer. Now and also in 10 or 20 years.

gurusmiMechanics tools?

www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00IMF1CCU
www.amazon.de/gp/product/B009ODV0PI
www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0001P18OQ
www.amazon.de/gp/product/B007BSNOCU (I used especially this ones at my 3D printer where i also worked higher voltages)

That aren't mechanics tools at all. To say it clearly. If one buys 7 of such tools he pays the same than at such a chinese set for marketing and cash digging reasons like iFixit or (in this case) Corsair. This are also no fancy tools. Only highly professional tools and no toys. When i look at my tools and the things i do i need always less than 8 drivers. They cost less than 40 Euros by Wera. Round about the same price range than that set. What will last longer? I can trust on my drivers. No matter how hard the skrews are used to be drilled by a manufactorer. Now and also in 10 or 20 years.

No-one that's isn't an electrician needs tools that can withstand 1000 Volts. Turn off and unplug electrical things before poking, is the rule.

Wera isn't fancy? :roll:
Oh you Germans crack me up with your jokes.

gurusmiMechanics tools?

www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00IMF1CCU
www.amazon.de/gp/product/B009ODV0PI
www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0001P18OQ
www.amazon.de/gp/product/B007BSNOCU (I used especially this ones at my 3D printer where i also worked higher voltages)

That aren't mechanics tools at all. To say it clearly. If one buys 7 of such tools he pays the same than at such a chinese set for marketing and cash digging reasons like iFixit or (in this case) Corsair. This are also no fancy tools. Only highly professional tools and no toys. When i look at my tools and the things i do i need always less than 8 drivers. They cost less than 40 Euros by Wera. Round about the same price range than that set. What will last longer? I can trust on my drivers. No matter how hard the skrews are used to be drilled by a manufactorer. Now and also in 10 or 20 years.

A set of those wera precision drivers or the ratchet is double this corsair set. High voltage and 3d printers? Unless you're working in an industrial setting you're talking bullshit. And even on an industrial setting, machines are shutdown for maintenance, certified insulated tools (because in practice any tool with a plastic handle is insulated) are needed for grid work, not regular machine maintenance.

There's a saying about "a poor craftsman blames his tools" that maybe we could convert here to "a poor craftsman has to rely on the best tools"

TheLostSwedeIn all fairness, I haven't tested the iFixit tools and they're getting great reviews all around, however, the Corsair kit shouldn't be all that different and it's way better than most of the overpriced xinese junk sold on Amazon etc. as you get a decent handle and what at least appears to be quality bits, from what little I've used mine so far.

"Both kits come with a flexible extension rod, but where Corsair bests iFixit is when it comes to the actual driver handle, as it has a much better grip and the top cap appears to be made of aluminium rather than plastic."

So if you haven't tested the iFixit, how can it be better?

TheLostSwedeNo-one that's isn't an electrician needs tools that can withstand 1000 Volts. Turn off and unplug electrical things before poking, is the rule.

Wera isn't fancy? :roll:
Oh you Germans crack me up with your jokes.

Well i'm studied communication electronics. Btw. Not the voltage is dangerous. It's the current. 50mA striking through your heart is enough to kill you. Wet skin can reduce you're skin resistance from around 100 kOhms (dry) to 10kOhms (wet). One 1:2 Coil can double the voltage. Did you hear about Ohm's Law? All of it unplugged and turned off. I learned that already centuries ago, When i was aged 16 or so. Otherwise it could get harmful for you. Btw. Never trust others that they unplugged. Especially when you don't trust you wife. ;)

trsttteA set of those wera precision drivers or the ratchet is double this corsair set. High voltage and 3d printers? Unless you're working in an industrial setting you're talking bullshit. And even on an industrial setting, machines are shutdown for maintenance, certified insulated tools (because in practice any tool with a plastic handle is insulated) are needed for grid work, not regular machine maintenance.

Without my tools i wouldn't open my 3D printer and unlock the screws at the PSU to get the cables off. Definitely not. I'm not suicidal. For me fancy tools are wannabe tools. In that way much more that corsair/iFixit/whatever tool set. Equal ones without a prominent placed badge can be found for €10 in german DIY markets (Bauhaus, Obi, Hornbach,...). Corsair, iFixit and whatever get that cheap chinese toolsets place their logo on it and charge a lot for tghat badge to make money. Btw. my toolbox costs a lot more than that little Wera ratched set or driver set also from Wera. There we are talking about 100-200 times more than that price tag. But that's not what i talked about.

If you don't know about simple things about electricity don'r offend others with your non existing knowledge. Otherwise you only blame yourself. My 3D Printer, a Anycubic Predator Delta FDM, has a 850W PSU inside. When connecting a PSU imside a 3D Printer it's better to have tools that can withstand 1000V. The power line gets into the printer and is screwed to the PSU. Inside the PSU are a lot of capacitors with a voltage of at least 240V. That 240V of power is routed directly to a relay for the heated bed. So your knowledge about 3D printers and electricity is not that educated as you might thought. As usual one should not trust about safety in chinese products. You have to consider that I didn't got my diploma in communication electronics for nothing.

So again:
I don't understand that people buy that cheap marketing toolsets.

gurusmiSo again:
I don't understand that people buy that cheap marketing toolsets.

For a hobbyist, there's a lot of value here. If the driver is good, that's at least $20 worth right there, leaving $15 for bits. That works out to ~$0.23 each. Considering how specialized some of these bits are, I doubt one could assemble the same collection off-the-shelf for anywhere close to that cost, particularly if spec'ing professional quality. And pro quality these bits are probably not. So what? They're probably at least okay, at least I'd hope so for Corsair to put their name on. Bits are called out as nickel plated, which likely puts them at least one class above the typical Chinesium stuff. But let's say the bits aren't great. Then the ones you use most will wear out, and you can replace them with good ones. Or you have discrete drivers for those sizes, and these are in reserve. That's how I run my various toolbags. There are full-size HQ bits that see the real use, and a tray of interchangeables for the rarer drive types and spares for the common.

In the US, $35 gets you this from Wera ($30 if you go Amazon):



It has exactly two of the bits I use most frequently in PC maintenance, PH1 and PH2. No P0, P00, 1/4 or 5mm driver. Also no flex extension. The least expensive bit kit by them that comes even close to anything resembling comprehensive in the same way as this is will set you back at least another $35. However, neither it nor any Wera kit at any price that I can find has penta, tri-wing triangle, or U-drive. Maybe another manufacturer of their class does. How many hobbyists know of or have access to those, and can stomach the cost if they do? Or even need tools of that caliber? You're being elitist about this, and I don't know why.

Thx. The first real logical post.

I wouldn't say that i', a elitist. I would describe me as a quite normal user who is reflectong what he is doing and what for i pay. I wouldn't buy that set as i feel that bits are not practical for smaller spaces. Also i never needed or used a flex extension. I got that set:
www.amazon.de/gp/product/B009ODV0PI
and bought 2 or 3 more different drivers from that asortment
www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0001P18OQ?th=1

At my 3D printer i needed Torx like no good. I don't like Inbus as those don't transfer that torque a Torx can do. I also used a lot of Screwlock (glue) in the moving parts aside that self locking nuts. There one needs quite a lot more torque than with normal nuts. I even used that locking nuts when modifying my side panel to holt the distroplate. Next i will use them to change the original cooler on a graphics card with a waterblock. I would not want to use cheap drivers or bits on that as there is a lack of control when using. One doesn't feel that exactly how much torque is used. The screws usually are tightened that hard that one need real good tools to unscrew them (in my opinion). I only use philips or inbus drivers when i'm assembling a computer. Sometimes i exchange them. I.e. when mounting fans or radiators. EKWB uses M3 and M4. Both screws of them i have laying around with different heads, nuts, washers, etc. If you gonna see a good working car garage in the us you will also see that they use Snap-On tools but no cheaper ones. Thats what I learned when I lived 2,5 yrs in Atlanta, Ga. In germany it is the same. They use Würth tools.If one cannopt afford those tools thats ok. Thats a reason. But when one can afford high quality but buy only cheap chinese tools is a quite different story. I also use tools that are not available here. I had to order them at AliExpress. I'm not at a judging position. It's not that i want to offend or grant someone. I try to understand that mindset. Why people acting that way.

It's about quality and how one thinks about. If one accept low quality in his tools he will also produce partwise lower quality. If you charge the highest level of quality in your work you dont allow that your tools are low on quality. As easy as that. It's a simple question of the mindset. I do not accept my work to be at a lower than the highest level of quality. No Matter if i work as a project Manager in IT, developing software or just hang on a board or build a computer. I do not make compromises anyway. Everybody can act as he/she wants. But how come such a mindset. Thats the question i have. I also have an other question why a lot of people don't want to learn all the time.

EDIT: mispost, this was supposed to be in the "what you bought thread" lol

Interesting that 850W is enough for your system (System specs).

I did calculate the appropriate PSU and was told that 1.000W is the minimum. I will have a 7950x, a watercooled RX 6950XT, 64GB of Ram, 2 SSD (2&4TB) an BluRay burner, some USB stories, 2 AquaComputer Farbwerk360 & 1 AquaComputer Quadro and my watercooling system. 1 D5, 13 Fans,... The recommended calculation by BeQuet was around 1200Watts. You own a similar system and a 850W PSU is enough.

gurusmiInteresting that 850W is enough for your system (System specs).

I did calculate the appropriate PSU and was told that 1.000W is the minimum. I will have a 7950x, a watercooled RX 6950XT, 64GB of Ram, 2 SSD (2&4TB) an BluRay burner, some USB stories, 2 AquaComputer Farbwerk360 & 1 AquaComputer Quadro and my watercooling system. 1 D5, 13 Fans,... The recommended calculation by BeQuet was around 1200Watts. You own a similar system and a 850W PSU is enough.

Posted in the wrong thread lol, but the short version is a power supply with a high tolerance for power spikes can get by with less wattage easily.

As for the toolkit, I may check it out, I have an old set of ifixit stuff that I have abused the shit out of, lol. Can't really blame them for that though.

gurusmiIf you don't know about simple things about electricity don'r offend others with your non existing knowledge. Otherwise you only blame yourself. My 3D Printer, a Anycubic Predator Delta FDM, has a 850W PSU inside. When connecting a PSU imside a 3D Printer it's better to have tools that can withstand 1000V. The power line gets into the printer and is screwed to the PSU. Inside the PSU are a lot of capacitors with a voltage of at least 240V. That 240V of power is routed directly to a relay for the heated bed. So your knowledge about 3D printers and electricity is not that educated as you might thought. As usual one should not trust about safety in chinese products. You have to consider that I didn't got my diploma in communication electronics for nothing.

Since when does the psu being 850W has anything to do with it!? And if you think you need 1000V certified screwdrivers to mount a simple psu you clearly don't know anything, those terminals you screw the cables into discharge in less than a second or are you also a afraid to touch a power plug after disconnecting it from the wall? The bed heater on that printer also doesn't use 240V, it uses 24V, slightly more than the 12V most printers use, but still very low.

But enjoy your nice tools, who doesn't like nice things anyway

trsttteSince when does the psu being 850W has anything to do with it!? And if you think you need 1000V certified screwdrivers to mount a simple psu you clearly don't know anything, those terminals you screw the cables into discharge in less than a second or are you also a afraid to touch a power plug after disconnecting it from the wall? The bed heater on that printer also doesn't use 240V, it uses 24V, slightly more than the 12V most printers use, but still very low.

But enjoy your nice tools, who doesn't like nice things anyway

I think the confusion was caused by my earlier mispost, appologies.

@R-T-B:
The 850W did apply to two different topics at once. ;) To my PC which has a 850W PSU and also about my 3D FDM Printer that also has a 850W PSU. ;)

@trsttte:
You really have no glue how a bigger FDM 3D Printer works. You also have no knowledge about how a PSU works. How to get DC out of AC and so on. You always have a 110V/240V heated bed when the current needed to heat gets higher. Just one little thought How big cables have to be to transport 36A at 24V. That is by power equal to 3,6A at 240V. And as 240V heating beds are not used anyway they are manufactored and sold: e3d-online.com/products/high-temperature-heated-beds. I own an Anycubic Predator FDM Printer. It has a round bed (Delta) of 370mm in diameterwith a height of around 400+ mm. You will never be able to heat it up to 80°C when using 24V or (also possible) 12V.

In germany we have an old but well known author. Wilhelm Busch. He wrote i.e. "Max and Moritz: A Story of Seven Boyish Pranks".
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Max_and_Moritz#:~:text=Der%20Fall%20Max%20und%20Moritz,regulations%20of%20the%20German%20Strafgesetzbuch.
He said: "Der Klügere gibt nach, deshalb regiert Dummheit die Welt". Let me try to translate. "The smarter give in. Therefore stupidity rules the world". My grandma always told me not to argue with a fool, they would bring me down to their level and then win by home advantage. It has no worth for anybody to discuss with you about tools or the way a printer works as long as you don't even have a glue what you are talking about. The next step would be that you start to offend me directly. You are right, I mean calm.

SN2716057So if you haven't tested the iFixit, how can it be better?

Well, look at the grip on the two? The rest of it, I can't say though. Also, I never said anything else was better and I'm sure the iFixit kit is great, as they have excellent reviews everywhere.

gurusmiWell i'm studied communication electronics. Btw. Not the voltage is dangerous. It's the current. 50mA striking through your heart is enough to kill you. Wet skin can reduce you're skin resistance from around 100 kOhms (dry) to 10kOhms (wet). One 1:2 Coil can double the voltage. Did you hear about Ohm's Law? All of it unplugged and turned off. I learned that already centuries ago, When i was aged 16 or so. Otherwise it could get harmful for you. Btw. Never trust others that they unplugged. Especially when you don't trust you wife. ;)

I'm well aware dude, but regardless, if you're putting a screwdriver in anything that's plugged in, you deserve to get zapped and you shouldn't put a screwdriver in a power supply, as the same applies there. Don't do stupid things and you live much longer. Well, I trust my wife so...

TheLostSwedeI'm well aware dude, but regardless, if you're putting a screwdriver in anything that's plugged in, you deserve to get zapped and you shouldn't put a screwdriver in a power supply, as the same applies there. Don't do stupid things and you live much longer. Well, I trust my wife so...

One don't need to have a PSU plugged in to be in danger. If one had the PSU plugged in before the capacitors are "loaded". That means they save the electric power. If one uses a normal (uninsulated) screw driver and shortcut to the ground there is a voltage/current going the reverse way. From the PSU's capacitors via the shortbreak to the ground. That could be a high voltage or also a higher current. Depending by the restistance of the body/shoes. Best is when one unplug and directly after that first shortbreak the PSU before working on that. So one empties the capacitors first.

gurusmiOne don't need to have a PSU plugged in to be in danger. If one had the PSU plugged in before the capacitors are "loaded". That means they save the electric power. If one uses a normal (uninsulated) screw driver and shortcut to the ground there is a voltage/current going the reverse way. From the PSU's capacitors via the shortbreak to the ground. That could be a high voltage or also a higher current. Depending by the restistance of the body/shoes. Best is when one unplug and directly after that first shortbreak the PSU before working on that. So one empties the capacitors first.

Sorry, but why are you shoving screwdrivers into your PSU? If you want to test it, use a piece of insulated cable to power it up, or one of the things that seem to come with many PSUs these days, just for that purpose.
You really are a worst possible scenario kind of guy, no?
I must've built close to a thousand computers in my life, as I worked in two different computer shops back in the day, plus all the other computers I've build for work or friends and obviously myself and I have never, ever had to put a screwdriver in a PSU.
Also, we're way off topic now...

See. I exchanged all the cables at my 3D Printer. Usinf a higher AWG having them more flexible etc. I did neet to connect the new Printers electronic to the PSU. And after connecting the most things to the CPU,... There you have to screw/unscrew cables from at the PSU. Especially as i did want to have the power plug on a different side. The only things at my FDM i haven't exchanged yet an my fdm is the frame (Alloy), the heated bed (370mm diameter is not easy to find) and the PSU (Why changing if everything is fine). I even changed the motors to bigger ones. built in linear rails (each 1m long), new sensors, new electronics, a new smart effector. new extruder, etc. Just virtually everythings. My rods i.e. were produced in and delivered from Hawaii, US. I use the big Dued3D board (6hc) from sweden as my electronics. If you integrate new electronics (the board) you have to screw at the PSU.

In younger times i did also setup complete Car hifi systems. So also there a high current source one has to disconnect first. I also add new sockets in my home, add lamps etc. I'm familar to electrical works. I passen a vocational training as an electrician before geting to universities. You might now that the germans are strikt on that trainings. The german government and insurances allow me zo do such things. I would be able to earn less that 50% of my commercial revenues by doing electrician tasks.

So i'm quite keen in using high professional tools. In germany it is forbidden for a commercial worker to do something on electrics without a tool complying the VDE norms. And such toolkits (to be btt) did never apply or pass such a test. Also chinese tools. And that's why i don't use them. As i said before. I'm not suicidal. But there is still my question why others do so. I can use my tools also on sockets. If connected they could safe my life. No matter one should work in safety and unplug first and check if it is unplugged.

gurusmiSo i'm quite keen in using high professional tools.

And there is nothing wrong with that, but not everyone needs it or can afford it.

gurusmiThx. The first real logical post.

I wouldn't say that i', a elitist. I would describe me as a quite normal user who is reflectong what he is doing and what for i pay. I wouldn't buy that set as i feel that bits are not practical for smaller spaces. Also i never needed or used a flex extension. I got that set:
www.amazon.de/gp/product/B009ODV0PI
and bought 2 or 3 more different drivers from that asortment
www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0001P18OQ?th=1

At my 3D printer i needed Torx like no good. I don't like Inbus as those don't transfer that torque a Torx can do. I also used a lot of Screwlock (glue) in the moving parts aside that self locking nuts. There one needs quite a lot more torque than with normal nuts. I even used that locking nuts when modifying my side panel to holt the distroplate. Next i will use them to change the original cooler on a graphics card with a waterblock. I would not want to use cheap drivers or bits on that as there is a lack of control when using. One doesn't feel that exactly how much torque is used. The screws usually are tightened that hard that one need real good tools to unscrew them (in my opinion). I only use philips or inbus drivers when i'm assembling a computer. Sometimes i exchange them. I.e. when mounting fans or radiators. EKWB uses M3 and M4. Both screws of them i have laying around with different heads, nuts, washers, etc. If you gonna see a good working car garage in the us you will also see that they use Snap-On tools but no cheaper ones. Thats what I learned when I lived 2,5 yrs in Atlanta, Ga. In germany it is the same. They use Würth tools.If one cannopt afford those tools thats ok. Thats a reason. But when one can afford high quality but buy only cheap chinese tools is a quite different story. I also use tools that are not available here. I had to order them at AliExpress. I'm not at a judging position. It's not that i want to offend or grant someone. I try to understand that mindset. Why people acting that way.

It's about quality and how one thinks about. If one accept low quality in his tools he will also produce partwise lower quality. If you charge the highest level of quality in your work you dont allow that your tools are low on quality. As easy as that. It's a simple question of the mindset. I do not accept my work to be at a lower than the highest level of quality. No Matter if i work as a project Manager in IT, developing software or just hang on a board or build a computer. I do not make compromises anyway. Everybody can act as he/she wants. But how come such a mindset. Thats the question i have. I also have an other question why a lot of people don't want to learn all the time.

I like an experience my cousin had: He bought a hammer, because he needed to hammer a nail into a wall to hang up a painting. He bought a random cheap hammer from a random cheap store. After three hits the nail was in, and the hammer had broken into several pieces. It did get the job done though, so for him it was fine.

I have a really cheap set of tools for watches. It was really cheap, and it's quite bad, but for what I do (replacing batteries in watches and some very light random tinkering) it's great. I could spend a few hundred dollars on a proper set of tools (used!) but thay would be a waste of money. It's the same with any tool. If all I do with a wire cutter is cut some random wires a few times per year it wouldn 't make sense to buy a €100 Lindström. Wera screwdrivers is a waste of money if all you do is the occasional tinkering with computers. I could buy a proper Fluke DMM, but it'd be a waste for my use case. I could buy a €400 tool set for the car, but I would use like three of the tools once every other year. Buying stuff not needed is a waste of money.

These collections of tools are great for general tinkering. They aren't meant to replace a collection of tools a pro has spent years and a lot of money to build up. They also take up little space.

TheLostSwedeAnd there is nothing wrong with that, but not everyone needs it or can afford it.

If one wants to have a full set of tools where he really uses 10%. Yes that can get real expensive. If one buys that tools the one needs the privetag is similar. I'd shown that with that wera example. A set of wera isn't much more axpensive. But I save money as time passes by. ;)

FrickThese collections of tools are great for general tinkering. They aren't meant to replace a collection of tools a pro has spent years and a lot of money to build up. They also take up little space.

If so one would get a 10 € toolset in the diy market instead of such branded ones costing 30€. ;) I guess that people want to have the "smell" of professionality those toolsets send out. A well known marque? That must be a great technician. Otherwise he would buy a cheap random set.

gurusmiIf so one would get a 10 € toolset in the diy market instead of such branded ones costing 30€. ;) I guess that people want to have the "smell" of professionality those toolsets send out. A well known marque? That must be a great technician. Otherwise he would buy a cheap random set.

Says the person buying expensive wera sets

gurusmiYou really have no glue how a bigger FDM 3D Printer works. You also have no knowledge about how a PSU works. How to get DC out of AC and so on. You always have a 110V/240V heated bed when the current needed to heat gets higher. Just one little thought How big cables have to be to transport 36A at 24V. That is by power equal to 3,6A at 240V. And as 240V heating beds are not used anyway they are manufactored and sold: e3d-online.com/products/high-temperature-heated-beds. I own an Anycubic Predator FDM Printer. It has a round bed (Delta) of 370mm in diameterwith a height of around 400+ mm. You will never be able to heat it up to 80°C when using 24V or (also possible) 12V.

No, you don't always have line loaded heated beds, that's one reason why older printers were crazy fire hazards, i didn't mention 24V at random, i googled that printer model and checked, you should do the same. A regular heated bed is also not +850W (did you use that rating to match the psu? because if you're using an ac heated bed the psu rating doesn't matter, you know that right?), they're more commonly around 250W, depending on size, unless you're using something silly like the 200ºC pads you linked (for that printer they use quite more power but still 500W, not 850)

Here's the replacement part if you burn yours too: www.anycubic.com/products/ultrabase-hotbed-platform-380x380mm-for-predator

Anyway, this is pretty far from the topic anyway so whatever, have fun