Test System

Assembly

Before diving into actually assembling the system, mount the AIO CPU block back bracket. Once in place, you can insert your board and secure it with the four screws. As you can see, all the leads end up right where they are suppose to be, so all you have to do is plug them in—no wrestling through tight spaces and potentially cutting yourself in the process.


One connected, simply put the block in place and secure it with the four spring-loaded screws on top of washers and flip the whole liquid-cooling assembly back into place. With that done, screw it back onto the frame of the H1 chassis. The whole process of adding the motherboard requires a total of six screws and takes less time than in a traditional ATX case as all the cables are already pre-routed.


To add 2.5" storage, simply drop a drive into one of two slots, where it is held in place by a plastic clip. There is a bit of wiggle room for thin SSDs, but classic 2.5" spinning drives should fit just fine. Once in place and connected, put the metal cover back in its place, which requires no tools or screws either.


Last but not least, adding the GPU could not be any easier as the whole opposite side is dedicated to it. The Palit GeForce 2080 fits perfectly, and we were also able to fit a thicker and longer ASUS STRIX 2080 Super. However, it was too thick for the white panel to slide back into place. So that 2.5 slot limit in terms of GPU thickness mentioned by NZXT is definitely no joke.


Once everything is in place, the NZXT H1 looks great, especially considering the density of components within. This is only possible because of the extremely well-thought-out layout and pre-routed cables. System Integrators will absolutely love the H1, I am sure!


Before you are able to put the side panels back into place, you have to simply slide the metal cover back into place by letting gravity do all the work.

Finished Looks

Once turned on, a white LED lights up around the power button to let you know the system is up and running.


You can see the faint glow of the green LED strip on the GPU in these pictures, but because of the heavy tint none of the other parts are really visible. The little white stickers are a bit of an eye sore, so I can see most people removing them once the system is all configured and running well. All the leads come out the back at the bottom of the chassis. The power is pre-routed with a rear-facing plug for easy connectivity, while things like additional USB devices or display cables do force you to tip the H1 over.